Question:

You guys have to check out "The Bug" from the recent fly swap.  It looks like a red soft hackle indicator.  I can’t wait to fish it.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Unfortunately this does not work on "single fly only" waters ! Yes, but I’m thinking I might squeak through the loophole if I slip a hook into my strike indicator

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Unfortunately this does not work on "single fly only" waters !

Yes, but I’m thinking I might squeak through the loophole if I slip a hook into my strike indicator

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I have never used a bite indicator, nor have I used a dry fly for this purpose.  I do use Mucilin to make the leader float,  and use a Water knot appropriately. I have noticed these days on the local pond that BI’s are all the rage; virtually everyone uses one when fishing buzzers. I have also noticed (from watching a few people) that the BI seems to impede the long distance presentation of the fly:  is this the case? Is there any merit with the BI over the tin of Mucilin (apart from the extreme visibility of the BI)?

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I have never used a bite indicator, nor have I used a dry fly for this purpose.  I do use Mucilin to make the leader float,  and use a Water knot appropriately.

Okay mate, I don’t care what you call them over there but they are called strike indicators.  SI instead of BI.  You can understand the implications of that I hope <g I have noticed these days on the local pond that BI’s are all the rage; virtually everyone uses one when fishing buzzers.

Probably because they work. I have also noticed (from watching a few people) that the BI seems to impede the long distance presentation of the fly:  is this the case?

Yes and no.  Once you become accustomed to them,  you will learn how to read them. Is there any merit with the BI over the tin of Mucilin (apart from the extreme visibility of the BI)?

Yes, it takes more to twitch them than it does with just a greased line.  If you are dragging the bottom this could help eliminate false indications.  Also, I find that they do not sink as often as the end of a fly line.  I fish with one more often than without when nymphing. The reason is simple, I do not like the big blob of material on the surface, but it does help in visibility, helps keep the fly or flies at a constant depth, is easy to change instead of changing the length of leader or tippet, and also is not as prone to being drug under the surface as a fly line. There is my analysis and is only my personal opinion.  Some people would rather be burned at the stake than use a strike indicator (KEN F!) <g — Warren Findley Can the Spam! Send Muskie complaints to:

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0] : I have never used a bite indicator, nor have I used a dry fly for : this : purpose.  I do use Mucilin to make the leader float,  and use a : Water knot : appropriately. : Okay mate, I don’t care what you call them over there but they are : called strike indicators.  SI instead of BI.  You can understand the : implications of that I hope <g : I have noticed these days on the local pond that BI’s are all the : rage; : virtually everyone uses one when fishing buzzers. : Probably because they work. : I have also noticed (from watching a few people) that the BI seems : to impede : the long distance presentation of the fly:  is this the case? : Yes and no.  Once you become accustomed to them,  you will learn how : to read them. : Is there any merit with the BI over the tin of Mucilin (apart from : the : extreme visibility of the BI)? : Yes, it takes more to twitch them than it does with just a greased : line.  If you are dragging the bottom this could help eliminate false : indications.  Also, I find that they do not sink as often as the end : of a fly line.  I fish with one more often than without when nymphing. : The reason is simple, I do not like the big blob of material on the : surface, but it does help in visibility, helps keep the fly or flies : at a constant depth, is easy to change instead of changing the length : of leader or tippet, and also is not as prone to being drug under the : surface as a fly line. : There is my analysis and is only my personal opinion.  Some people : would rather be burned at the stake than use a strike indicator (KEN : F!) <g : — : Warren Findley : Can the Spam! : Send Muskie complaints to: If your have the hook, the fake bait and the indicator all in one package it’s called a dry fly, and it’s just dandy, but if you consider separating any of these elements, some people seem to get pretty upset. Mike — Michael McGuire                     Hewlett Packard Laboratories  (remove x’s from email if not      Palo Alto, CA 94303-0971   a spammer) Phone: (650)-857-5491              

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bobbers. Start insulting strike indicators and I will change the subject to smelly old waders . . . .;-) Warren

hell, that’s something i know nothing about.    d;^) –walt

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–waldo

At last someone is calling them what they are. Thanks Waldo!!! Big Dale

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Start insulting strike indicators and I will change the subject to smelly old waders . . . .;-) hell, that’s something i know nothing about.    d;^)

I thought not <g Warren

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bobbers.

Start insulting strike indicators and I will change the subject to smelly old waders . . . .;-) Warren

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Unfortunately this does not work on "single fly only" waters ! TL MC – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – He didn’t ask about using a dry fly as an indicator is my defense <g I do love summer and fall because I use dries as the indicator.  If you need an indicator it might as well be something that can catch fish!  I just forget about this during the winter. . .

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He didn’t ask about using a dry fly as an indicator is my defense <g I do love summer and fall because I use dries as the indicator.  If you need an indicator it might as well be something that can catch fish!  I just forget about this during the winter. . . Thanks for picking up the slack. Warren

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Nice to see there are more pragmatic people here. My thoughts _exactly_. Thanks, Herman <snip If your have the hook, the fake bait and the indicator all in one package it’s called a dry fly, and it’s just dandy, but if you consider separating any of these elements, some people seem to get pretty upset. Mike — Michael McGuire                     Hewlett Packard Laboratories Rd.)  (remove x’s from email if not      Palo Alto, CA 94303-0971   a spammer) Phone: (650)-857-5491 — Cheers, Herman Herman Nijland Daytime webmaster Lifetime flyfisher

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I have never used a bite indicator, nor have I used a dry fly for this purpose.  I do use Mucilin to make the leader float,  and use a Water knot appropriately. Okay mate, I don’t care what you call them over there but they are called strike indicators.  SI instead of BI.  You can understand the implications of that I hope <g

bobbers. –waldo

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Nice to see there are more pragmatic people here. My thoughts _exactly_. Thanks, Herman

<snip If your have the hook, the fake bait and the indicator all in one package it’s called a dry fly, and it’s just dandy, but if you consider separating any of these elements, some people seem to get pretty upset. Mike — Michael McGuire                     Hewlett Packard Laboratories  (remove x’s from email if not      Palo Alto, CA 94303-0971   a spammer) Phone: (650)-857-5491

–         Cheers, Herman         Herman Nijland         Daytime webmaster         Lifetime flyfisher

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Question:

Can anyone direct me a website or any other literature that would provide some instruction on the classic Swing Method of fly fishing? Thanks! ….learning in Northern California…. – Scott

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Can anyone direct me a website or any other literature that would provide some instruction on the classic Swing Method of fly fishing?

1.  Ray Bergman, Trout (1938) 2.  Wet fly technique is also summarized in Leisenring/ Hidy, Art of Tying the Wet Fly and Fishing the Flymph (1971). — |  Donald Phillipson, 4180 Boundary Road, Carlsbad Springs,  | |        Ontario, Canada, K0A 1K0, tel. 613 822 0734         |

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Question:

Bill–thank you for the clearest, most succinct piece of fishing advice I’ve seen recently in this group. I’m also going to the Bahamas for the first time next week and your advice was timely and valuable.

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I am planning my first bonefish trip to Abaco in April. Does anyone have a list of what to pack (stuff like sunscreen,etc.) to fish this area. I have never traveled to the Bahamas and would appreciate any suggestions. Also, any recommendations on clothing and fly patterns would be great. Thanks.

Jim, As of yet I have to wet a line in the southern salt.  However I attended a lefty Kreh seminar last year with a few good general tips, as follows: Find out what colour the bottom is where you are going.  Tie light coloured flies for a light bottom..  A dark bait would seem out of place in "nature" A few good flies in different sizes and colours are better than a vest of mix and match.. FInd out if the fish are being caught on a high or low tide and fish accordingly… Suncreen, suncreen and more suncreen… Ian

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I am planning my first bonefish trip to Abaco in April. Does anyone have a list of what to pack (stuff like sunscreen,etc.) to fish this area. I have never traveled to the Bahamas and would appreciate any suggestions. Also, any recommendations on clothing and fly patterns would be great. Thanks.

Start with a good hat that has a bill that is dark on the underside and has a chin strap for wind. Next, Polarized glasses that are not to dark and are in brown to yellow tones with a neck strap and side shields. Good sun screen is a must. I like very light weight long sleeve shirts and long pants for sun protection in light colors. Orvis, Streamline, Simms and Bare make about the same neoprene, thick soled flats booties that are the standard foot wear today. Most anglers are using #7, 8 and 9 weight outfits for bonefish depending on the wind, fly size and weight. We like leaders that a either hand tied or knotless that are ~ 9′ and clear with a stiff/hard consistency. If the wind is not blowing and the fish are spooky, I just add 3 to 5 feet of tippet and go down a size in flies. I recommend Cortland or SA saltwater lines for the hotter weather. In the Bahamas they use light colored Nasty Charlies that were developed there by Bob Nauheim of Santa Rosa ( Fishing International). The McVay Gotcha is very popular and Lefty Kreh really promotes the chartruese/white Clouser minnows. You might bring some small light colored crabs?  We use smaller/lighter flies in shallow water ( #6/8), medium weight/size flies(#4/6) for average depths(12 to 18") and larger/heavier flies( #2) with lead eyes for deeper water or current drift from tide movement. Take something to clean the salt spray from you glasses. I use a fanny pack if we are going for a long walk on the flats. Bring a small water resistant camera, batteries and film. I use a big stainless steel combo forcepts/cutter that will pinch the barbs, cut leader/tippet and remove deeply hooked flies. I hope that all anglers could have one nice day on the flats with the bonefish. Bill Kiene Kiene’s Fly Shop Sacramento,CA,USA 800/4000FLY

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I am planning my first bonefish trip to Abaco in April. Does anyone have a list of what to pack (stuff like sunscreen,etc.) to fish this area. I have never traveled to the Bahamas and would appreciate any suggestions. Also, any recommendations on clothing and fly patterns would be great. Thanks.

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Question:

Will be in West Yellowstone mid July for about 5 days.  Want to fish a couple of days in the Park.  Any suggestions for areas to hike in 2-3 miles to escape the crowds?  Fly selection?  Current conditions? Thanks.  J. Rice

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Will be in West Yellowstone mid July for about 5 days.  Want to fish a couple of days in the Park.  Any suggestions for areas to hike in 2-3 miles to escape the crowds?  Fly selection?  Current conditions? Thanks.  J. Rice

Hi J.Rice A quick call to Bob Jacklin’s Fly Shop will get you up-to-the second information (406-646-7336).  The water conditions are changing so rapidly you need very current conditions.  A storm in the park can change everything overnight. Tight Lines Al Beatty BT’s Fly Fishing Products Bozeman, MT (96 catalog)

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Question:

Has anyone tried these photochromic, ophthalmic, polarized sunglasses? If so, are they worth the price? What’s the best color for all around use? Which are the most durable frames? Thanks in advance. Joel

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Has anyone tried these photochromic, ophthalmic, polarized sunglasses? If so, are they worth the price? What’s the best color for all around use? Which are the most durable frames? Thanks in advance.

Joel — I just had a chance to take a look at a pair of metal flex-frame/ gray photochromic prescription Marquesas. The flex-frame seemed very nice.  It was flexible in all sorts of directions which should minimise the effects of inadvertent abuse associated with fly fishing.  Orvis also did a very good job grinding and mounting the lenses. Because of the glass lenses, the outfit was a bit heavy. Everything looked nice until I did a polarizer test.  At cross-polarization, the lenses showed considerable transmission of blue light.  I estimated polarization between 50-75%.  In other words, glare, albeit reduced in intensity, will be still visible in blue. That, in my view, is inadequate in a pair of ~$200 fishing glasses where polarization should be in the 95% range across the spectrum. Hope this helps. Best, -Ande Rychter

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I have several pair of the Marquesas, here are my recommendations: 1)  Yes, they are an excellent pair of sunglasses with glass lenses that are resistant to scratches (up to a point!) 2)  Get the plastic frame models, not the metal frames, especially if you fish a lot in saltwater. (The metal screws rust, not the frame! Orvis will replace with plastic frame, by the way.) 3)  Best color lenses for saltwater and general fishing: brown or amber 4)  Best color for clear freshwater on sunny day: grey 5)  They are very easy to adapt to large heads like mine (no pun intended!) 6)  The cases that come with them are a piece of shit! Get a hard lense case from a backpacking supplier that will really protect the glasses.

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– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -Rychter) writes: Has anyone tried these photochromic, ophthalmic, polarized sunglasses? If so, are they worth the price? What’s the best color for all around use? Which are the most durable frames? Thanks in advance. Joel — I just had a chance to take a look at a pair of metal flex-frame/ gray photochromic prescription Marquesas. The flex-frame seemed very nice.  It was flexible in all sorts of directions which should minimise the effects of inadvertent abuse associated with fly fishing.  Orvis also did a very good job grinding and mounting the lenses. Because of the glass lenses, the outfit was a bit heavy. Everything looked nice until I did a polarizer test.  At

cross-polarization, the lenses showed considerable transmission of blue light.  I estimated polarization between 50-75%.  In other words, glare, albeit reduced in intensity, will be still visible in blue. That, in my view, is inadequate in a pair of ~$200 fishing glasses where polarization should be in the 95% range across the spectrum.

What method did you use to make your assessment? These are real interesting results as laboratory tests on these glasses came out at 99% effective polarization.  The grey lens also has the most even transmision of colors throughout the visible spectrum varying from as low as 15% to as high as 25% light transmission from light wave lengths of 400 nanometers through 950 nanometers (upper edge of visible light is 760nm). Below 400 nm light transmission was under 4% and stopped entirely at 350nm.   Although the grey lens gives the most even transmission of colors of any lens (truest colors), it does not give the greatest clarity or depth perception because it does not reduce significantly blue light (closest to high energy UV [280-380nm]).  The human eye sees best in the middle range of light (yellow) and least clearly near the outer edges of the visible spectum (blue and red).  The blue light spectrum (380nm – 480nm) focuses on the front of the retina and tends to make things blurry, reducing contrast and depth perception.  The crystalline lens of the eye absorbs blue light and  over-exposure of blue light can cause permanent damage to it.  Wears them out. The yellow lens absorbs all light up to 470nm (upper end of blue light spectrum) and transmits 60%to 94% of all light from wavelengths of 500nm into the infrared (760nm-1mm).  Since they do not readilly block IR light they have to be specially treated to absorb this "hot" part of the spectrum.  Yellow causes color distortion – for instance the blue sky may look green.  This is arguably the highest contrast lens. The brown lens will transmit  from as little as 5% to as much as 10% of the blue light spectrum and completely blocks the UV light below 380nm. As it reaches 450nm it steadily increases to ~40% at the upper end of the visible spectrum of light.  It also does not significantly distort colors – tends to shade shift as opposed to color shift.  This lens provides a good combination of true colors (or close to true) and increased contrast. This is my personal choice for fishing glasses. Warm spectrum lenses – yellow, amber, brown,etc. –  also help preserve a chemical in the human eye known as rodopsin (sp?) that helps with night vision.  Fish it to the limit!!! *PLEASE NOTE*  The *regular* Marquessa glasses are $119 for the nylon or the metal frame, and $126 for the flex frame.   The *prescription* glasses are $186 to $195 for single prescription and $200 to $215 for bi-focal depending on the frame.                                                         Thanks,                                                           Dan Dan Gracia                                                               Orvis West Coast Fly Fishing Schools If you kill that big fish you can’t catch ‘em again.  So what if they eat other fish?  If you kill the big ones there will only be little ones left (funny how that works!).

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Everything looked nice until I did a polarizer test.  At cross-polarization, the lenses showed considerable transmission of blue light.  I estimated polarization between 50-75%.  In other words, glare, albeit reduced in intensity, will be still visible in blue. That, in my view, is inadequate in a pair of ~$200 fishing glasses where polarization should be in the 95% range across the spectrum. What method did you use to make your assessment?

{A detailed description of transmission properities of Orvis Marquesas  deleted.} Dan — Thanks for the description of the excellent transmission properties of the Marquesas line.  Unfortunately spectral transmission and polarization are different things.   In testing these specific Marquesas, I estimated how much I could see when I cross-polarized the light passing through the glasses. Cross-polarizing lenses is equivalent to looking at the glare reflected from the water surface and is a good indication of how well a pair of polarized glasses will do in a fishing situation. On a bright day I could clearly see everything (albeit in deep blue), hence my ball park estimate of 50-75% polarization.  That’s less than impressive. For comparison, I ran the same test on a pair of Action Optics glasses. The glasses in question were the Silver Creek Brown in non-prescription. At cross-polarization, I virtually could see nothing.  This indicated to me that the glasses were very well polarized, probably in the high 90%, and would practically cut off all polarized glare reflecting from the water surface. In both tests I used a 60 mm Hasselblad polarizing filter.  These filters are very nearly 100% polarized. Best, -Ande Rychter

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Although the grey lens gives the most even transmission of colors of any lens (truest colors), it does not give the greatest clarity or depth perception because it does not reduce significantly blue light (closest to high energy UV [280-380nm]).  

snip – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – The yellow lens absorbs all light up to 470nm (upper end of blue light spectrum) and transmits 60%to 94% of all light from wavelengths of 500nm into the infrared (760nm-1mm). snip This is arguably the highest contrast lens. The brown lens will transmit  from as little as 5% to as much as 10% of the blue light spectrum and completely blocks the UV light below 380nm. snip This lens provides a good combination of true colors (or close to true) and increased contrast. This is my personal choice for fishing glasses. Warm spectrum lenses – yellow, amber, brown,etc. –  also help preserve a chemical in the human eye known as rodopsin (sp?) that helps with night vision.  Fish it to the limit!!!

My latest Orvis catalog shows that these glasses come only in gray, brown or copper lenses.  What would be the best lenses for low light conditions?  I am not concerned about any color-shifting but I wish to retain as much of the light as possible and reduce glare. Thanks. — Hugh L. Scott                    Albuquerque, NM

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Question:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – [deleted] This is a form of hunting, no more no less, with all of the qualities of hunting.  This is not golf. It is not a game. It involves an animal. You are sticking sharpened steel into an animals face. If this bothers you, then you might want to consider something else… God, Tim you sure the life of the party these days. Howdy Don, Just applying the "does he want to flyfish or just look like ‘a flyfisher’ test big guy… I, do NOT welcome ‘all’ newbies to the sport in some kind of "Barneyesque Lemming Hugs and Kisses" fashion.

        i couldn’t agree more.  in fact, there are quite a few "old boys" out there that could use a lot less time on the water in the carolina blue ridge. Maybe it’s because I don’t want to sell them anything.

        once again, right on the nose, timbo.  please see "orvis jeeps", "orvis trout schools", "orvis approved guides" for documentation. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -TimW

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He said I did not need any flys for now just practice with the pole. Sure…., put a fly to the line and practice in a bass water or whatever U like to catch. Best training there is, and who knows, U even migth catch something. I saw a martin bass rig for 49.95 in Bass Pro’s spring catalog.  Will this be a good learner set? Thanks John

Put a fly on the line when you practice and use a leader/tippet of about 9feet as this will alter the way your line will cast.  It does not cast properly without a fly and you will even notice a change when you use different weight flies.   Also, I agree with the other guy, go practice on some water, choose a place where there is not too much vegitation to get caught up in and don’t try to cast too far first off, accuracy is far more important when your starting out. Good luck and stick with it, once you get the hang of it you’ll never use a baitcaster again! Darren (New Zealand)

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: I, do NOT welcome ‘all’ newbies to the sport in some kind of : "Barneyesque Lemming Hugs and Kisses" fashion. Allright!  I’m pretty sure this is our first Barney reference.  Way to go Tim. —

No,  I’ve made several Barney remarks…but, I do always keep in mind…                   "Everyone is someone elses Barney" XXXOOO’s TimW

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I just took my first fly fishing weekend course. I liked it. I could see myself doing it better than I ever spin or bait fished. My instructor told me to get a 5/6 pole and weight forward line with a reel of some type.

Skip the WF line and go for a Double Taper instead……You won’t get the same distance but it’s much easier to learn to do other than the "standard" overhead cast…….It’s probably cheaper too…… He said I did not need any flys for now just practice with the pole.

Sure…., put a fly to the line and practice in a bass water or whatever U like to catch. Best training there is, and who knows, U even migth catch something. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -I saw a martin bass rig for 49.95 in Bass Pro’s spring catalog.  Will this be a good learner set? Thanks John

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Chief-petty-officer to the newbie – Boy, we need to tie that down, go to supply and get me a 100′ of shoreline. While you’re out pick up a bucket of relative bearing grease…

Oh, I think it got left on the signal bridge. Either there or in shaft alley #3.  Better check both places. kill -9 -1 | sort | init                         1965 IH Scout                         1908 Win 30-30                  

Question:

All the comments so far are quite interesting to me because I have yet to own a rod over 8′ in length. I built a 8′   6 wt.  st croix and a 7′2" 3 wt. st croix for myself two years ago and have only used the 8′ a dozen times.  The short light rod is just a ball to use and I have caught some good fish on it!  1 to 4 lb largemouth, tuns o sunfish, 61/2 lb. brown, 9 lb carp,  4 1/2 lb smallmouth buffalo.There aren’t many things I would trade my small short rod for. The superiority of one man’s opinion over another’s is never so great as when the opinion is about fishing. Tim ILBTim

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I find a 9ft quality 5 wt. idealfdor all fresh water fishing. Unless you are fishing very small streams stick wit what you have unless money is no object.

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Short rods definitely are useful and fun, especially on small brushy streams.  Lamiglass makes some short rods, with the smallest around 51/2 ft.  St. Croix used to make some nice ones back in the days of glass, but I have no idea what their line is now.

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Short rods are advantageous in tight conditions with canopy type overgrowth.  A long rod in this situation would always be stuck in the canopy.  In areas where most of the cover is on the banks and not overhanging the river, a longer rod will allow you to  backcast over the obstructions more easily, is more accurate (like having a longer finger to point with) and definitely gives you better line handling and mending.  So as many answers to  fly fishing questions goes,  "It all depends".  Make your choice depending on the conditions or personal preferance. Lee Wulff once said that he didn’t fish short rods because they were better, but because they were more challenging and he enjoyed fishing them more than long rods.  Check out Joan Wulff’s book for some specialty casts to use with short rods.                                                               Dan Dan Gracia                                                               Orvis West Coast Fly Fishing Schools If you kill that big fish you can’t catch ‘em again.  So what if they eat other fish?  If you kill the big ones there will only be little ones left (funny how that works!).

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– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -Short rods are advantageous in tight conditions with canopy type overgrowth.  A long rod in this situation would always be stuck in the canopy.  In areas where most of the cover is on the banks and not overhanging the river, a longer rod will allow you to  backcast over the obstructions more easily, is more accurate (like having a longer finger to point with) and definitely gives you better line handling and mending.  So as many answers to  fly fishing questions goes,  "It all depends".   Make your choice depending on the conditions or personal preferance. Lee Wulff once said that he didn’t fish short rods because they were better, but because they were more challenging and he enjoyed fishing them more than long rods.  Check out Joan Wulff’s book for some specialty casts to use with short rods.                                                              Dan Dan Gracia                                                             Orvis West Coast Fly Fishing Schools If you kill that big fish you can’t catch ‘em again.  So what if they eat other fish?  If you kill the big ones there will only be little ones left (funny how that works!).

Re: Short fly rods Don’t forget that long rods can really come in handy if you fish stillwater from a belly boat. I fish an out of production (I think) Orvis 10 1/2′ in my tube. The minor inconviences are easily outweighed by the advantages of the extra length. Like you said, "It all depends…" Good luck, Nash

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IMHO, I have a Sage 7.5′ 4wt and I love it! The majority of fishing I do is on small spring streams and it is perfect.  I have other rods, longer and heavier, but this one is definitely my favorite. D.P.

The best rod I own is an Orvis "Tippet" 7.5′ 3wt 1.5 oz.. I use it for trout and panfish. It’s the first rod that I grab and the one I use when I dream about fishing.

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I’ve used my Orvis Flea, 6 1/2′ 4 weight almost exclusively for the last two years. Originally bought it for small s.w. Michigan streams with low canopies but have had success on local northern Indiana ponds and even the Yellow Breeches in PA. You need a very smooth knot between leader and fly line because you’ll probably reel in that much to reach fish or to use net. On the plus side, almost any size fish gives your outfit a battle and the shorter rod makes you work on better casting mechanics for longer casts.

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IMO, the biggest disadvantage to short rods is their limited ability to mend line, especially on big rivers.   I use a 9 foot rod for 95% of the fishing I do.  On smaller rivers, like the local Cache la Poudre, I prefer an 8 foot; shorter rods seem to work better for shorter casts. When I get rich some day, working for the government (right) I’d like to get a 9.5 foot six or seven weight for nymphinig big rivers. Generally speaking, the bigger the water, the bigger the rod. — -Wayne Trzyna

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Doug, The Mighty Mite is a 5wt!  You may just be able to get a nice Salmon or Steelhead if you are careful.  Most likely, you could not get a Steelie or Salmon on a 6′ 1wt.  The MM is and was not a gimmic when sold.  It was offered as a short all around rod.  They are rare and collectable, dont break it! Sean

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IMHO, it depends on where you plan on fishing.  If you’re on the big rivers, I’d go with a longer rod.  Physically, they are capable of putting out more line (higher rod tip speed, etc.).  If, however, you’re like me and are ducking overhanging branches and the like, I would STRONGLY recommend a short rod.  I have a 7′2" 4wt that I absoulutely LOVE!  My first rod was a 9′6" 5wt that was nice, just had to be so careful about tree fishing.  Also, I really don’t think the added length makes too much of a difference in relation to distance unless you start talking about throwing flies way out there, because I’ve never been let down by the short rod in trying to hit a spot.  My suggestion, go with the short! Terry

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Also, who do you think won the war between the rods?  Lefty Kreh and the long rods? or Ed Shenk et al and the short ones?

Jim, I think a random sampling of rod vendors’ offerings is more than sufficient to answer this question. Rods 8ft or longer in length are the rule, with rods under 8ft being the overwhelming minority. (In fact, this is probably also true if the criterion were 9ft or longer for a "long" rod.) This is not to criticize short rod proponents; only to point out that there is very little question on this subject if you look to the marketplace as your measurement of "who won the war". Regards, Fred

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I am interested in knowledge about short fly rods, particulary fiberglass but also graphite.  Line weights 3 – 5.  Also, rods that are for sale.   There have been waves of interest in these small rods in the past, probably started by Lee Wulff and Arnold Gingrich, but also Ed Shenk.  I am interested in your experience with the short ones, different manufacturers, lengths, shortcomings, etc., not commercialized opinion driven by marketing usually published in the fly fishing journals.  Also, who do you think won the war between the rods?  Lefty Kreh and the long rods? or Ed Shenk et al and the short ones? Thanks. J. H.

Jim: Just my own experience, but I have a 6′6" Loomis GL3 (graphite) 3-weight that I really like to use on small streams.  I have caught trout, largemouth and smallmouth bass, and lots of panfish on it and really love to use it. It does, however, leave a lot to be desired if you are fishing in a wind.  I think that part has as much to do with the line weight as the length, but the two are probably related. Finally, if your small stream fishing includes dropping nymphs along cutbanks without actual casting, a 9′ rod works a lot better for that. Still, there is something that is just FUN about throwing a light line and a tiny fly on a short rod.  I think it makes me a better fisherman with my other rods. Thanks, Bob

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IMHO, I have a Sage 7.5′ 4wt and I love it! The majority of fishing I do is on small spring streams and it is perfect.  I have other rods, longer and heavier, but this one is definitely my favorite. D.P.

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    IMHO, short rods (beginning with the bamboo type) have always been of interest to some fishermen because there have been promoters of fishing with them, especially the late Lee Wulff.  He could cast very long distances with a short rod, as well as land very large fish.  In the world of bamboo, a very heavy material, a short rod was a light rod.       The advent of graphite has eliminated weight as a consideration in rod length.  So now we can return to consideration of basic principles like the length of the rod as a lever for casting or its applicability for handling or manipulating line on the water.  And in this regard, a longer rod is preferable, all other things being equal.  Many of the light weight rods (by line size) are now relatively lengthy – few under 8′ and many at 9′ – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -The short rod interest has really confused me as of late also.  I have always favored a shortish rod for the fishing I do in the Sierra and High  Sierra.  There really is no scientific fact for this, they are simply easier to carry and cast in tight conditions with light line. The trout are seldom over 12", so the short, light rod makes fair game of them.   The 1oz, 1 and 2wt. rods are gimmics in my opinion.  I have used one particular model and felt I did the fish I caught some real harm, by not bringing them in quick enough. The rod simply wouldnt allow it. I was using the rod to get a feel for the action and casting abilities and comparing it to light cane rods.  While I know of no 1 or 2wt. cane rods, there was a significant difference between this rod and 3 and 4wt. cane.  The cane has the same sweet action and feel (heavier yes) but brought fish to the hand much faster. I believe this is another fad the industry is going through.  Much has been written over th past two years about short, light rods.  So much so, that the once common and inexpensive short cane rods have become the rage across the country.  This is both good and bad.  Bad, because I really cant afford to buy the SB 290’s and HI Tonka Princes any longer, at the rate I break them. . But good because, these really are decent rods and deserve some respect.  As with anything "collectable" the prices will certinly rise to unaffordability soon enough. Thoughts out there? Regards, Sean

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The short rod interest has really confused me as of late also.  I have always favored a shortish rod for the fishing I do in the Sierra and High Sierra.  There really is no scientific fact for this, they are simply easier to carry and cast in tight conditions with light line. The trout are seldom over 12", so the short, light rod makes fair game of them.   The 1oz, 1 and 2wt. rods are gimmics in my opinion.  I have used one particular model and felt I did the fish I caught some real harm, by not bringing them in quick enough. The rod simply wouldnt allow it. I was using the rod to get a feel for the action and casting abilities and comparing it to light cane rods.  While I know of no 1 or 2wt. cane rods, there was a significant difference between this rod and 3 and 4wt. cane.  The cane has the same sweet action and feel (heavier yes) but brought fish to the hand much faster. I believe this is another fad the industry is going through.  Much has been written over th past two years about short, light rods.  So much so, that the once common and inexpensive short cane rods have become the rage across the country.  This is both good and bad.  Bad, because I really cant afford to buy the SB 290’s and HI Tonka Princes any longer, at the rate I break them. . But good because, these really are decent rods and deserve some respect.  As with anything "collectable" the prices will certinly rise to unaffordability soon enough. Thoughts out there? Regards, Sean

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Question:

I started out by reading the Orvis Guide to Fly Fishing.  You can find it at any Orvis dealership and at most bookshops that have a large sports section. Good luck, Todd Etchieson

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Quoting MarkPuch<mpuch from a message in rec.outdoors.fishing.fly     I am just starting to fly fish and I am looking for books I can     read on fly fishing lakes and rivers.  Also on how to tie flies.  If    you know of any books please let me know. Mark – I just picked up and excellant book for learning fly tying.  Its "The Art of Fly Tying" by Johnvan Vliet and is published by The Hunting & Fishing Library.  Cost was about $24.  It concentrates on techniques rather than patterns.  Starts with tools and materials then tells how to tie tails, wings, boddies, hackle…. then goes on to general how to on streamers, nymphs, drys, wets, terrestrials, bass & pikle flys.  If you learn the techniques then you can tie any of the patterns.  Since I’m a beginner tyer, looks like it will help me a bunch. Rainbow V 1.17.5 for Delphi – Registered

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The Art of Fly Tying is excellent! Also, you might want to pick up any book by Dave Hughes. He not only tells you how he does it, so you can learn from his mistakes and victories, but also tells it in the most easily read format and style of any fly fishing author (and believe it or not, I have read most of them). Good luck, and remember the most important thing to learning about fly fishing and fly tying, is to HAVE FUN! Redside2

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- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Quoting MarkPuch<mpuch from a message in rec.outdoors.fishing.fly     I am just starting to fly fish and I am looking for books I can     read on fly fishing lakes and rivers.  Also on how to tie flies.  If    you know of any books please let me know. Mark – I just picked up and excellant book for learning fly tying.  Its "The Art of Fly Tying" by Johnvan Vliet and is published by The Hunting & Fishing Library.  Cost was about $24.  It concentrates on techniques rather than patterns.  Starts with tools and materials then tells how to tie tails, wings, boddies, hackle…. then goes on to general how to on streamers, nymphs, drys, wets, terrestrials, bass & pikle flys.  If you learn the techniques then you can tie any of the patterns.  Since I’m a beginner tyer, looks like it will help me a bunch. Rainbow V 1.17.5 for Delphi – Registered

I would like to second that endorsement.  Vliet’s photographs illustrate techniques very well, and he has more than enough patterns to keep you busy.  He also gives instructions on how to tie parachutes and other techniques which are too arcane to discussed in smaller tomes like Dick Stewart’s "Universal Fly Tying Guide".  Get the ring bound edition if you can.  It’s pages lie flat when you prop the book up on your kitchen table.  Oops, I meant tying bench. — Keep your stick on the ice.

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Pick up a copy of the Curtis Creek Manifesto by Sheridan Anderson. I bought it when I started fly fishing in 1976 and still get a kick out of thumbing thru it.  It is illustrated in a cartoon manner and is one of the best beginner books out there.                                                             Good luck, Mark Heskett

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: Does anyone know if there is a rod building newsgroup? If not, does this : newsgroup handle most of the rod building questions? And I’m sorry about your name…it must have been a rough childhood.<g Yeah, it was fun. And I defy anyone to come up with something new I havn’t heard

Takes me back to my childhood Bruce, my older cousin always called me sweet pea. What type of rod are you going to build.  When I first started fly fishing You could build a rod for $25.  My favorite rod is a Fenwick Ferralite fiberglass rod constructed with Fuji single foot guides.  It’s made for falling in the mountain streams.  When I fall which is a couple of times a year, I don’t want to worry about screrwing up an expensive rod and reel. I just throw it as I go down so I don’t land on it and do permanent damage.  A Medalist reel has stood up to the task, although I have had to do some work on it with a pair of long nose pliers.  I always thought I would make a bamboo rod some day, but the older I get the less ambitious I am. Ernie Harrison

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ha, think your names were rough! try jason "Bever" (Beaver) I figure it could be worse, My sister has it worse than I do! ha

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      I am just starting to fly fish and I am looking for books I can read on fly fishing lakes and rivers.  Also on how to tie flies.  If you know of any books please let me know. live psychic line                  =  date line 1-900-659-9966 ext #1199           =  1-900-835-5182 ext #1193 3.95 per minute                    =  2.49 per minute Mark Puch

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Question:

I would appreciate any information on fishing for steelhead or salmon around Vancouver in late October, particularly on wadeable river spots. Thanks in advance, RK —   /      RedKnight               | Chris McCarley   /      "I have seen the future |            and it is neural."      |

Try calling Ruddicks Fly Shop in Burnaby (Suburb of Van)

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I would appreciate any information on fishing for steelhead or salmon around Vancouver in late October, particularly on wadeable river spots. Thanks in advance, RK —   /      RedKnight               | Chris McCarley   /      "I have seen the future |            and it is neural."      |

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Question:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Went smallmouthing this past wednesday on a little creek here. We did pretty good. I really wasn’t expecting to do that well, actually I didn’t expect to catch any. But we landed four nice fish. This was the latest I’ve ever fished for smallmouth.. The temperature was in in the forties and the water was up a little, but was running clear. I guess that constitutes a good day.. KEG I used to go to school at EKU in Richmond.  We used to go smallmouth fishing over by Georgetown quite often.  I can’t remember the name of the creeks right now, but we almost always did really well.  Poppers and streamers seemed to work best for us.  If the water was up too high they were unwadeable.  I remember lots of bank structure that held plenty of fish. I remember one creek that I75 crosses over right next to Lexington Let me know what creeks you are fishing, I did a lot of roaming around and flyfishing over there up until about four years ago. I now live in Oregon, the fishing does NOT suck!!!                                               -Quint

Sorry about the delay Quint.. I sent some mail to you but it got returned for some reason.. See if you can spot these.. I’ll try to keep it short, sometimes I go on about smallmouthing.. Elkhorn River — this is probably the river you fished in Georgetown. One of the forks runs right through the town.. I found a better section just north of Frankfort in Peaks Mill. A friend of mine works in the Biology department here at the University and did a census on the Peaks mill section of the river. He said they shocked up a bunch of really trophy size smallmouth, like in the 4 to 6 lb range.. but like you say, if it rains anywhere in the state the river gets running really hard and muddy. Licking River — This is probably the River that you see crossing under the I-75 corridor north of lexington. I haven’t fished this one much.. Silver Creek — Just on the North side of Richmond.. This is a nice small creek.. great for wading.. I really enjoy fishing this creek. it’s small and doesn’t have really big fish in it.. but we usually catch a bunch when we go.. Hanging Fork — Danville.. This is the best creek i’ve ever fished for bass.. The creek runs through farm land and has only two public access points. My father inlaw has 500 acre farm on the creek so the sections I fish have absolutely no fishing pressure. A bad day on this creek is landing only a dozen fish. Lots of very big Large Mouth Bass.. Clear Creek — by far the most spectacular creek i’ve ever seen in kentucky. It’s located in Nonesuch, This is the Creek I was fishing in my last post to the rec.outdoors.ff a very old creek, And I mean its been cut down really deep into a ravine in solid rock, which makes it really tough to get to.. so very few people fish it. Dix river, Stoner Creek, Big South Fork of the Cumberland, Rockcastle, I’ll stop here.. good talking to you.. keep my mail id.. if you ever make it out here again.. I know some really great areas.. keg

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Went smallmouthing this past wednesday on a little creek here. We did pretty good. I really wasn’t expecting to do that well, actually I didn’t expect to catch any. But we landed four nice fish. This was the latest I’ve ever fished for smallmouth.. The temperature was in in the forties and the water was up a little, but was running clear. I guess that constitutes a good day.. KEG

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Went smallmouthing this past wednesday on a little creek here. We did pretty good. I really wasn’t expecting to do that well, actually I didn’t expect to catch any. But we landed four nice fish. This was the latest I’ve ever fished for smallmouth.. The temperature was in in the forties and the water was up a little, but was running clear. I guess that constitutes a good day.. KEG

I used to go to school at EKU in Richmond.  We used to go smallmouth fishing over by Georgetown quite often.  I can’t remember the name of the creeks right now, but we almost always did really well.  Poppers and streamers seemed to work best for us.  If the water was up too high they were unwadeable.  I remember lots of bank structure that held plenty of fish.   I remember one creek that I75 crosses over right next to Lexington Let me know what creeks you are fishing, I did a lot of roaming around and flyfishing over there up until about four years ago.   I now live in Oregon, the fishing does NOT suck!!!                                                -Quint

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