Question:

yep look at the forests in Alabama and you will see the great management of OUR forests that has robbed us and paid the timber industry. Pine trees

The majority of americans support being thinner, and yet the majority of americans are fatter than they should be.  That says something about the majority of americans.

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Musty Ass has spoken.

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\More like a ten year old, with no friends, and a ghetto blaster.\  I have had the pleasure of fishing with Muskie on several occasions, twice on the San Juan and once on the Kootenai.

I could not care less about his girlfriend or his fly-rods. The only thing I care about, is the fact that he costs me money with his constant Usenet abuse. The problem is solved for me at least. I have unsubscribed from rec.outdoors.fishing.fly  as it is simply too expensive to download all the rubbish. I will occasionally have a look in, using Google ( where I don

Question:

______  RW?  I want to talk to you at: — http://www.gink.com/chat If you are up.  I’m going there now. George

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Ernie, I’ve seen these but have never had the guts to use them.  Do they stay in the flyline when you hook a big fish?  They look like they would slip out.

Vern; This topic comes up every few weeks here.  If you do a Deja News search you can find quite a bit of discussion of it over the past year or so.  It seems that Ernie and I are the biggest fans of leader links.  I’ve used them for over fifteen years, as have a number of my friends.  I know of no case in which they have failed, except when they are so old that repeated dragging over rocks etc., has abraded them badly.  Of course, any knot used to attach a leader to the fly line would have fared just as badly. Like anything else, a leader link has a finite useable life.  But bearing that in mind they are very reliable, cheap, and easy to use, and should be more than adequate for anything less demanding than large salt water species.  I’ve personally caught quite a few steelhead and salmon while rigged with leader links and never had a problem. Someone else recently suggested knotting the ends of the leader and line together before reinserting them into the leader link.  This is unnecessary for most applications but can’t hurt if you can actually tie a knot small enough.

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Vern,    They are surprisingly strong.  The only thing to watch out for is to tie a figure 8 knot or double overhand when attaching leader butt’s with diameters of .017 or less to make a larger knot.  You should check the line where it enters the Leader Link vocationally to see that it hasn’t cracked. They seem to last forever, I have worn out lines and moved the Leader Link to a new line.  Changing leaders is so easy that I replace the whole leader rather than tie on a new tippet while I am fishing.  I save the leaders and rebuild them when I am not fishing. Ernie Harrison – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Ernie, I’ve seen these but have never had the guts to use them. Do they stay in the flyline when you hook a big fish? They look like they would slip out. Vern Don,    Try using the Leader Link from Eagle Claw. Eagle Claw Country Store Phone 1-800-628-0108 4245 East 46th Avenue Denver Colorado 80216 Leader Link For tapered lines (LL1) For level lines     (LL2) There are 3 links per package and cost $2.83 per pack.

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Are you guys differentiating between the kind that slip over and the kind that poke through (with barbs) the end of your flyline?……john – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Vern,   They are surprisingly strong.  The only thing to watch out for is to tie a figure 8 knot or double overhand when attaching leader butt’s with diameters of .017 or less to make a larger knot.  You should check the line where it enters the Leader Link vocationally to see that it hasn’t cracked. They seem to last forever, I have worn out lines and moved the Leader Link to a new line.  Changing leaders is so easy that I replace the whole leader rather than tie on a new tippet while I am fishing.  I save the leaders and rebuild them when I am not fishing. Ernie Harrison Ernie, I’ve seen these but have never had the guts to use them. Do they stay in the flyline when you hook a big fish? They look like they would slip out. Vern Don,    Try using the Leader Link from Eagle Claw. Eagle Claw Country Store Phone 1-800-628-0108 4245 East 46th Avenue Denver Colorado 80216 Leader Link For tapered lines (LL1) For level lines     (LL2) There are 3 links per package and cost $2.83 per pack.

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John,    A Leader Link looks like a large grain of rice with a hole drilled through the center lengthwise and with the sides cut out in the middle. Your line slides into the hole in one end and out the hole in the side,  You tie an overhand knot in it, trim off the excess and pull it back through the hole in the side.  Then you do the same with your leader in the hole in the other end. Ernie – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Are you guys differentiating between the kind that slip over and the kind that poke through (with barbs) the end of your flyline?……john

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ahhhh….those rascals……thanks….john

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -John,   A Leader Link looks like a large grain of rice with a hole drilled through the center lengthwise and with the sides cut out in the middle. Your line slides into the hole in one end and out the hole in the side, You tie an overhand knot in it, trim off the excess and pull it back through the hole in the side.  Then you do the same with your leader in the hole in the other end. Ernie Are you guys differentiating between the kind that slip over and the kind that poke through (with barbs) the end of your flyline?……john

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I’ve been experimenting with different connections between my fly line and leader.  My local flyshop has a habit of tying a perfection loop into a line and then using a loop-to-loop connection but if I’m going to get a wind knot that’s where it will happen 90% of the time.  I’ve taken recently to tying a short section (18") of butt directly to the end of the line using a nail knot, then tying in a tapered leader, then tying in a tippet.  I end up clipping off a 1/2" of line anytime I have to change out that butt section which is more often than I’d like. Any other suggestions? TIA, Don — Don Anderson

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going to get a wind knot that’s where it will happen 90% of the time.  I’ve taken recently to tying a short section (18") of butt directly to the end of the line using a nail knot, then tying in a tapered leader, then tying in a tippet.  I end up clipping off a 1/2" of line anytime I have to change out that butt

Don, I wonder how many posts you are going to get like this one. You know, where your question is addressed but no advice given? Myself, I use the perfection not on both the butt section and the leader.  I like the way it forms the loop to loop as far as turn over goes.  Less likelihood of the ‘hinging effect.’ I do recall this question coming up a long time ago and I saved the question and all of the answers….course I lost a whole big file of stuff while learning some of the various functions of my computer.  And I don’t remember what the answer was….I think it had something to do with casting…in order to avoid the knots. I must have retained something on a subconscious level because it moved the knots down into the tippet section. All I know is that it’s a real pickle trying to flyfish with a short term

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Hi Don, I like to first needle nail knot a new tapered knotless monofilament leader directly to the end of my flyline. I am actually ’snelling’ on the leader. Then after I have used up all the taper by adding tippet material, I cut the leader at about 12 to 18 inches from the flyline and then attach another tapered leader. This gives me the same diameter and the same constancy of monofilament. You can shorten the new leader by cutting 12 to 18 inches from the butt before tying it on. This is not ‘thee way to do it’, but just another way to do it. — Bill Kiene Kiene’s Fly Shop http://www.kiene.com – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I’ve been experimenting with different connections between my fly line and leader.  My local flyshop has a habit of tying a perfection loop into a line and then using a loop-to-loop connection but if I’m going to get a wind knot that’s where it will happen 90% of the time.  I’ve taken recently to tying a short section (18") of butt directly to the end of the line using a nail knot, then tying in a tapered leader, then tying in a tippet.  I end up clipping off a 1/2" of line anytime I have to change out that butt section which is more often than I’d like. Any other suggestions? TIA, Don — Don Anderson

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Don,    Try using the Leader Link from Eagle Claw. Eagle Claw Country Store Phone 1-800-628-0108 4245 East 46th Avenue Denver Colorado 80216 Leader Link For tapered lines (LL1) For level lines     (LL2) There are 3 links per package and cost $2.83 per pack. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -I’ve been experimenting with different connections between my fly line and leader.  My local flyshop has a habit of tying a perfection loop into a line and then using a loop-to-loop connection but if I’m going to get a wind knot that’s where it will happen 90% of the time.  I’ve taken recently to tying a short section (18") of butt directly to the end of the line using a nail knot, then tying in a tapered leader, then tying in a tippet.  I end up clipping off a 1/2" of line anytime I have to change out that butt section which is more often than I’d like. Any other suggestions? TIA, Don — Don Anderson

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I use a nail knot to tie a butt to the leader and then I put a surgeons loop at the end of that.I use a loop to loop connection to attach the leader.I don’t like to use a loop connection to my tippet because I believe it will affect the ability of the leader to lay out straight.Art Lee recommends never using a loop anywhhere on your leader but using a uni-knot to connect which is easier to tie than a nail knot and serves the same function.I have switched to this knot and I haven’t had any problems.

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Don,    Try using the Leader Link from Eagle Claw. Eagle Claw Country Store Phone 1-800-628-0108 4245 East 46th Avenue Denver Colorado 80216 Leader Link For tapered lines (LL1) For level lines     (LL2) There are 3 links per package and cost $2.83 per pack.

Hear, Hear!  I’ve been using Leader Links for 20 years now, and wouldn’t waste my time trying anything else.  They work great, but I hardly know anybody else that uses them.  They don’t look as though they would be all that strong, but they are a hell of a lot stronger than the tippet of your leader (unless maybe you are fishing for blue marlin or something), which is all that you need. Kevin

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Hear, Hear!  I’ve been using Leader Links for 20 years now, and wouldn’t waste my time trying anything else.  They work great, but I hardly know anybody else that uses them.  They don’t look as though they would be all that strong, but they are a hell of a lot stronger than the tippet of your leader (unless maybe you are fishing for blue marlin or something), which is all that you need.

When I recommended leader links to a friend of mine in Idaho he turned up his nose at them. Said he was a "purist". I pointed out that he was using a graphite rod, a nylon leader, and a synthetic flyline. It turned out that the guy didn’t even know how to tie a nail knot or a needle knot. He had it done at the tackle shop. Sheesh! — visit my web site: http://home.earthlink.net/~royalwulff/ something bogus to avoid spam)

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Ernie, I’ve seen these but have never had the guts to use them.

Question:

I’ve driven all over the country and seen some mighty fine independent outdoor shops. Long-time owner-operated, hardwood floors, hand-picked stock, great stuff, great stories, multi-generation shops. Let’s wake up folks. These shops are going the way of the dodo. The chains and BAD shops are taking over. Maybe one way we can STOP this sad trend is to make a list of our favorite shops nationwide. Then stop by when we’re in the area. Maybe go on drives to see these treasures! One selfish reason of mine to do this is that I haven’t taken a big road trip lately and I’d like to go revisit some of those great ole shops. OK, I forgot where some of them were. Of course, you know that outdoor sport shops aren’t the only disappearing dodos in civilized retail. Quality independent restaurants, hardware stores and bookshops are in the same boat. Maybe there’s a way we can rescue them all at once? Putting the word out about where there are can’t be a bad way to start. — Jeff Potter   !.com   delete ‘DELETETHIS!’ to reply ***"Out Your Backdoor": Friendly Magazine of DIY Adventure and Culture        http://www.glpbooks.com/oyb … with a full line of books, bookstore & forum

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The chains and BAD shops are taking over. Maybe one way we can STOP this sad trend is to make a list of our favorite shops nationwide. Then stop by when we’re in the area.

My experience so far is that the typical chain store doesn’t carry the best outdoor gear… i.e. they will have Timberland boots but not Vasque or Asolo… But in Birmingham Alabama I would recommend Alabama Outdoor and Roger’s Trading Co.  I have to say, though, that one of my favorite things to do in Atlanta is visit REI, and I think they are a great place to get gear. cordwood

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In the Dallas Texas Area, look to: Backwoods  (corner of Coit and Campbell roads, Richardson) <–also carry flyfishing gear, woohoo! Mountain Hideout Lover’s Lane, just a block West of the Dallas North tollway We have an REI in town, but I like these stores better, they go out of their way for you, whether you are asking for an expensive tent, a pair of $18 socks, or even $2 zipper pulls. In Dayton, Ohio, go to General Surplus, don’t have the address. — Matt Blickensderfer * A Grouchy German is a Sour Kraut! *

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -I’ve driven all over the country and seen some mighty fine independent outdoor shops. Long-time owner-operated, hardwood floors, hand-picked stock, great stuff, great stories, multi-generation shops. Let’s wake up folks. These shops are going the way of the dodo. The chains and BAD shops are taking over. Maybe one way we can STOP this sad trend is to make a list of our favorite shops nationwide. Then stop by when we’re in the area. Maybe go on drives to see these treasures! One selfish reason of mine to do this is that I haven’t taken a big road trip lately and I’d like to go revisit some of those great ole shops. OK, I forgot where some of them were. Of course, you know that outdoor sport shops aren’t the only disappearing dodos in civilized retail. Quality independent restaurants, hardware stores and bookshops are in the same boat. Maybe there’s a way we can rescue them all at once? Putting the word out about where there are can’t be a bad way to start. — Jeff Potter   !.com   delete ‘DELETETHIS!’ to reply ***"Out Your Backdoor": Friendly Magazine of DIY Adventure and Culture       http://www.glpbooks.com/oyb … with a full line of books, bookstore

& forum

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Question:

Fiddleaway, Check your tippet next time this happens. If your Woolly Bugger is spinning clockwise, next time you tie you should palmer anticlockwise. You may accidentally be tying the version required for fishing in the southern hemisphere. Easy! Cheers John Knight Sydney Fly Rodders’

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Fiddleaway, How heavy a leader are you using?  If it’s too light, that might exacerbate the problem. Pete C

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I think that’s it mate. I can probably test my patterns in the tub drain eddy in the bathroom! Thanks. —                                                       -dnc- – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Fiddleaway, Check your tippet next time this happens. If your Woolly Bugger is spinning clockwise, next time you tie you should palmer anticlockwise. You may accidentally be tying the version required for fishing in the southern hemisphere. Easy! Cheers John Knight Sydney Fly Rodders’

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I give up! No matter which orientation I use for the palmer hackle (barbs toward eye or away from eye) my wooly buggers end up twirling (don’t know if it’s when I cast or as I retrieve, but I assume it’s the former).  Eventually, the tippet gets so fouled up I have to change it.  What a pain. I cannot for the life of me figure out what’s different between mine and the commercially tied ones (which do not exhibit the problem). Any suggestions? —                                                       -dnc-

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FiddleAway, could it be that you are using a dry fly hackle and the commercial flies are tid with a softer wet fly hackle? Just guessing.             Jim

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Two Suggestions: 1.  Put your weight on the front half of the hook and dub filler on the rest beore you use the chenille. 2.  Either bead heads or lead eyes help to stabilize the fly. 3.  You may not have enough tailing maribou–works kind of like a kite in the wind for this type of fly. Hope this helps. ECJ

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I use died saddle feathers which seem of fairly wet quality.  But stiffness is not a quality I’ve paid attention to, so I’ll take more care.  Thanks. —                                                       -dnc- – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – FiddleAway, could it be that you are using a dry fly hackle and the commercial flies are tid with a softer wet fly hackle? Just guessing.             Jim

Response:

Yes, I’ve been distributing the weight.  Maybe that’s the problem.  I’ll try concentrating it at the head. Your tail comment stands to reason although I notice that commercial versions of Wooly worms<  (i.e., much less tail) do not have the problem (but my wooly worms do, same as my wooly buggers ????) Thanks for your suggestions. —                                                       -dnc- – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Two Suggestions: 1.  Put your weight on the front half of the hook and dub filler on the rest beore you use the chenille. 2.  Either bead heads or lead eyes help to stabilize the fly. 3.  You may not have enough tailing maribou–works kind of like a kite in the wind for this type of fly. Hope this helps. ECJ

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I give up! No matter which orientation I use for the palmer hackle (barbs toward eye or away from eye) my wooly buggers end up twirling (don’t know if it’s when I cast or as I retrieve, but I assume it’s the former).  Eventually, the tippet gets so fouled up I have to change it.  What a pain. I cannot for the life of me figure out what’s different between mine and the commercially tied ones (which do not exhibit the problem). Any suggestions? —                                                      -dnc-

Take a couple turns of hackle around the head instead of stopping or starting your hackle all of a sudden. bsman

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: Two Suggestions: : 1.  Put your weight on the front half of the hook and dub filler on the rest : beore you use the chenille. <snip In addition to stabilizing the fly, this helps it dart around a bit. When I tie ‘em (white wooly bugger is my favorite warm weather fly), I wrap the front half of the shank in lead.  Of course, you will want to leave a little space at the front to whip in the head, etc. —                        http://members.tripod.com/~trunculo/index

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Question:

I’m getting back into flyfishing after several years and i need a new rod/reel/line outfit.  I’ve seen several nice ones around but can’t really decide which weight i should go for.  I’m considering a #6 or #7 weight rod – but i haven’t ruled out a #5 or #8 weight either.  I fish mostly for trout and panfish, w/ a few occasional largemouth and smallmouth bass and small pickerel.  I would like an outfit w/ as much versitility as possible for small to medium-sized fish.  Any help would be greatly appreciated.  Thanx.                                                -Zimmy

Response:

I’m primarily a warmwater ff and have always used an 8 wt.  Recently I picked up a 6 wt. fast action rod and have really enjoyed it for bass and panfish.  I think that the faster action allows it to cast larger flies well, yet, it is still fun with small 12" bass. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I’m getting back into flyfishing after several years and i need a new rod/reel/line outfit.  I’ve seen several nice ones around but can’t really decide which weight i should go for.  I’m considering a #6 or #7 weight rod – but i haven’t ruled out a #5 or #8 weight either.  I fish mostly for trout and panfish, w/ a few occasional largemouth and smallmouth bass and small pickerel. I would like an outfit w/ as much versitility as possible for small to medium-sized fish.  Any help would be greatly appreciated.  Thanx.                                               -Zimmy

Response:

I’m getting back into flyfishing after several years and i need a new rod/reel/line outfit.  I’ve seen several nice ones around but can’t really decide which weight i should go for.  I’m considering a #6 or #7 weight rod – but i haven’t ruled out a #5 or #8 weight either.  I fish mostly for trout and panfish, w/ a few occasional largemouth and smallmouth bass and small pickerel.  I would like an outfit w/ as much versitility as possible for small to medium-sized fish.  Any help would be greatly appreciated.  Thanx.

Be guided by fly size.  If your typical day was spent using only flies #16 and smaller you would want a 5 weight outfit (or 6 or 4).  If the typical day was spent casting one-inch poppers or streamers for bass you’d want a 7 weight or 8.  You can cast bigger flies on a lighter outfit, and you can cast smaller than #16s on a 7 weight or heavier outfit, but you would probably not enjoy it after an hour or so. — |  Donald Phillipson, 4180 Boundary Road, Carlsbad Springs,  | |        Ontario, Canada, K0A 1K0, tel. 613 822 0734         |

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I use a Sage 5wt overlined with 6wt line.  It is a tip-flex rod and it has a very fast action which does a good job casting flies as small as size 12 dries to 1/0 deer hair poppers.  It has enough backbone to fight big largemouths and is sensitive enough to make moderate sized panfish a blast to catch.  No, it’s not the perfect rod for every situation, but as an all-around warm-water rod, I couldn’t want for much more.  I still would like a 2 or 3wt for small panfish and a 9wt for saltwater. HTH, Clark – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I’m getting back into flyfishing after several years and i need a new rod/reel/line outfit.  I’ve seen several nice ones around but can’t really decide which weight i should go for.  I’m considering a #6 or #7 weight rod – but i haven’t ruled out a #5 or #8 weight either.  I fish mostly for trout and panfish, w/ a few occasional largemouth and smallmouth bass and small pickerel. I would like an outfit w/ as much versitility as possible for small to medium-sized fish.  Any help would be greatly appreciated.  Thanx.                                               -Zimmy

Response:

(Donald Phillipson) writes:

*SNIP* I fish mostly for trout and panfish, w/ a few occasional largemouth and smallmouth bass and small pickerel.  I would like an outfit w/ as much versitility as possible for small to medium-sized fish.  Any help would be greatly appreciated.  Thanx. Be guided by fly size.  If your typical day was spent using only flies #16 and smaller you would want a 5 weight outfit (or 6 or 4).  If the typical day was spent casting one-inch poppers or streamers for bass you’d want a 7 weight or 8.  You can cast bigger flies on a lighter outfit, and you can cast smaller than #16s on a 7 weight or heavier outfit, but you would probably not enjoy it after an hour or so.

Don’s advice is right on the money.  Presuming you use a forearm-based casting stroke, sounds like a fast action 6wt. (such as the Orvis TL 906 – Silver Label or Trident version) would do the trick.  If you expect to through lots of #2 deer hair bugs, go ahead and stick a 7wt. line on that fast action 6.  The rod will handle it just fine and the 7wt. line pulls big bugs through the air better than the 6.  If you didn’t need to throw the big bugs for largemouth bass, a 5 wt would do fine.  So, like Don says, let your fly size be your guide. I have a line-weight/fly size/quarry table (my personal opinions) set up on my web-site that you might want to glance at.  Go to "http://www.thegrid.net/flyfish/LineSpec.html" and click on the hyperlink to "Line Weight ‘Recommended Uses’ Chart".  You might find it useful in making your decision.                                        Good Fishing,                                             Dan Dan Gracia Orvis West Coast Fly Fishing Schools Mt. Shasta Fly Fishing Schools http://www.thegrid.net/flyfish

Response:

I have a pfluger summit 6W and I use it for every kind of fish, from 15 inch trout to 20 pound red salmon on the keni river. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I’m getting back into flyfishing after several years and i need a new rod/reel/line outfit.  I’ve seen several nice ones around but can’t really decide which weight i should go for.  I’m considering a #6 or #7 weight rod – but i haven’t ruled out a #5 or #8 weight either.  I fish mostly for trout and panfish, w/ a few occasional largemouth and smallmouth bass and small pickerel.  I would like an outfit w/ as much versitility as possible for small to medium-sized fish.  Any help would be greatly appreciated.  Thanx.                                                -Zimmy

Response:

If you are just getting back into flyfishing and you fished with lower modulus graphite or even fiberglass in the past, be very careful with the new tip flex type rods that some have recommended.  A 5 weight is a good all around rod, and as one wrote, 6 wt line will help the rod load better with larger flies.  I would consider a good mid flex or even a powerful full flex rod to get back in the swing of things.  Either way, make sure you cast it first.  Any good dealer will insist you cast it prior to buying it.  Good luck. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I’m getting back into flyfishing after several years and i need a new rod/reel/line outfit.  I’ve seen several nice ones around but can’t really decide which weight i should go for.  I’m considering a #6 or #7 weight rod – but i haven’t ruled out a #5 or #8 weight either.  I fish mostly for trout and panfish, w/ a few occasional largemouth and smallmouth bass and small pickerel. I would like an outfit w/ as much versitility as possible for small to medium-sized fish.  Any help would be greatly appreciated.  Thanx.                                               -Zimmy

Response:

Question:

Hi John, I have been using poppers made by the Accardo Tackle Co., 3708 Conrad Drive, Baton Rouge, LA 70805 for some time. They seem to hold up very well as long as no tooth critter hits it. I have no connection with this company. Jack in Tn.

Response:

I’m amazed nobody responded with the following name (remember it well!): Bob’s Lucky Day Lures in Dumfries, Virginia. This guy typically advertises in one (or more) of the major FF periodicals, and his poppers are BOMBPROOF. In fact, he guarantees them for at least 100 landed fish. He sells a wide range of sizes and styles. The bodies are made of high-quality, closed-cell yellow foam on Daichi hooks. You can literally drive over one of these with your car and they won’t come apart! Email me if you can’t find his ad or number and I’ll dig it up. Scott Wilkinson

Response:

There was a place a few years ago at least out in Colorado I think called "The Bass Shop" or "The Bass Bug" or something like that and it sold a good array of bugs, poppers and etc. Hopefully someone else will update as to the right name and if they are still in business. Nice place.

That would be The Bass Pond – in Denver. I don’t have their phone number or address but I’m sure they’re still in business. They carry quality warm water fly fishing gear.

Response:

We sell Mustad 33903 kink shank popper hooks in sizes 1 to size 14–$5.95 per box of 100 and size 1/0 is $6.35 per box of 100.  We also sell assortment packages we put together ourselves.  This way our customers can get several different sizes without breaking the bank or buying too many of one hook size–they can also tell, pretty quickly, which sizes they will need to eventually purchase in larger quantities. Each 33903 assortment  package is $7.25.  The large sized hook assortment includes 20 each of sizes 1/0, 1, 2, 4, & 6.  The medium sized hook assortment includes 20 each of sizes 2, 4, 6, 8, & 10.  The small sized hook assortment includes 20 each of sizes 6, 8, 10, 12, & 14. We have practically stopped using the foam poppers altogether and have switched to poppers we make using Softex and Flexo tubing.  They are practically indestructible, can be tied in huge variety of sizes and shapes (we also make sliders), and can be colored very effectively with permanent markers.  Because of the versatility of the materials and ability to custom tailor the design, we’ve found them to be hugely productive–even more so than the foam poppers. We sell AirHead (Flexo) Poppers in our mail order catalog, as well as the Flexo tubing and Softex.  We have an introductory package which includes a jar of Softex and 5 yards of assorted sizes of Flexo tubing available for $16.95.  We have a three page brochure and instruction sheet on working with Softex and Flexo we’d be happy to send anyone who is interested. For a free copy of our mail order catalog or information on Softex/Flexo, send us email or call us toll-free at 1-888-200-0364. Lauren Hart Brazos FlyFishers   http://www.brazosflyfishers.com – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Me too!  I’d really like to find a source of small poppers (size 16 hook preferred, size 14 acceptable), made ON A POPPER HOOK (one or two humps in hook shank to keep body from rotating), cork or plastic body, and with none of those silly, annoying rubber band legs that keep fish from touching "anything sharp" (like the hook).  I haven’t even seen the proper hooks to make my own!  I used to be able to purchase commercially exactly what I’ve described. I am so sick and tired of cheap poppers that don’t float and/or fall apart after catching a few fish. Does A N Y B O D Y know of a catalog or web site with a good selection of quality poppers? I’ve read in articles about these new foam poppers that float well and are durable. They are on the high end, 3 or 4 bucks a piece, but I’d love to try some…can’t find them anywhere. —  Custom Internet Applications  John Scherrer/Marketing Specialist  Voice 814-756-4682 Fax 814-756-3416  http://www.cianow.com  "Creating websites that work!"

Response:

Try www.fishypete.com the prices there are a lot lower than most places.

Response:

I am so sick and tired of cheap poppers that don’t float and/or fall apart after catching a few fish. Does A N Y B O D Y know of a catalog or web site with a good selection of quality poppers? I’ve read in articles about these new foam poppers that float well and are durable. They are on the high end, 3 or 4 bucks a piece, but I’d love to try some…can’t find them anywhere. —  Custom Internet Applications  John Scherrer/Marketing Specialist  Voice 814-756-4682 Fax 814-756-3416  http://www.cianow.com  "Creating websites that work!"

Response:

I am so sick and tired of cheap poppers that don’t float and/or fall apart after catching a few fish. Does A N Y B O D Y know of a catalog or web site with a good selection of quality poppers? I’ve read in articles about these new foam poppers that float well and are durable. They are on the high end, 3 or 4 bucks a piece, but I’d love to try some…can’t find them anywhere.

        There was a place a few years ago at least out in Colorado I think called "The Bass Shop" or "The Bass Bug" or something like that and it sold a good array of bugs, poppers and etc. Hopefully someone else will update as to the right name and if they are still in business. Nice place. Also, you might want to look at getting in touch with the Arbogast Co. out of Ohio I think. They now own the "Hank Roberts" line of stuff, and I’ve always been fairly happy with their bugs, but I don’t think they make foam stuff like you are talking about. I’ve used the foam, but have not really found any bugs that have the right combo of weight, lack of wind resistance, high flotation and etc. for some reason. Maybe have not tried enough? So I use lots of the "Sneaky Pete’s" which are made by ??? (Hank Roberts Co.?) But, one thing I tried a few years ago after reading an article in an old FF mag was to make my own foam poppers. You buy the bass bug hook and then a pair of those stupid semi-hard foam "flip-flops" for your feet at your local K-Mart in whatever color that strikes your fancy. You then cut out the popper body from the sole foam in whatever size/shape you want, cut a slit in the bottom which fits over the hook and Crazy Glue it on. Wind on some hackle in back and maybe a tail or two and that’s it. No need for fancy tying skills. Amazingly, they worked great for me. Just the right combo of weight, high flotation, castability and etc. The only problem I had was with cutting a decent body, or at least one that looked decent to me, but then again as my mother put it years ago when trying to teach me cursive writing, my fine-motor skills need work.         Good luck. tgb

Response:

Me too!  I’d really like to find a source of small poppers (size 16 hook preferred, size 14 acceptable), made ON A POPPER HOOK (one or two humps in hook shank to keep body from rotating), cork or plastic body, and with none of those silly, annoying rubber band legs that keep fish from touching "anything sharp" (like the hook).  I haven’t even seen the proper hooks to make my own!  I used to be able to purchase commercially exactly what I’ve described. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I am so sick and tired of cheap poppers that don’t float and/or fall apart after catching a few fish. Does A N Y B O D Y know of a catalog or web site with a good selection of quality poppers? I’ve read in articles about these new foam poppers that float well and are durable. They are on the high end, 3 or 4 bucks a piece, but I’d love to try some…can’t find them anywhere. —  Custom Internet Applications  John Scherrer/Marketing Specialist  Voice 814-756-4682 Fax 814-756-3416  http://www.cianow.com  "Creating websites that work!"

Response:

I am so sick and tired of cheap poppers that don’t float and/or fall apart after catching a few fish. Does A N Y B O D Y know of a catalog or web site with a good selection of quality poppers? I’ve read in articles about these new foam poppers that float well and are durable. They are on the high end, 3 or 4 bucks a piece, but I’d love to try some…can’t find them anywhere. — Custom Internet Applications John Scherrer/Marketing Specialist Voice 814-756-4682 Fax 814-756-3416 http://www.cianow.com "Creating websites that work!"

Hi John, We carry the Umpqua hard bodied poppers that come in Red/white or Frog that have a good Tiemco hook in them for $3.50 and the Spirit River foam poppers that come in Yellow, Black or Green with a quality hook at $2.95. We also carry the Ganes poppers in lots of sizes and colors that are made in the USA with Mustad hooks at about $2.49. I recommend using 0x to 2x tippet on these poppers so you don’t loose them or that giant bass. Bill Kiene Kiene’s Fly Shop Sacramento,CA,USA 800/4000FLY www.kiene.com

Response:

Generally, unless you are doing  a lot of work for the toothier critters like pike and muskie (or unless you are in the salt…) I think the Gaines products are very adequate for the price.  I fish them in fairly small sizes (6-10) for smallmouth and usually lose the paint job far before I get a disconnect between the body and the hook, and they become useless.  Each one seeoms to be good for about 30-40 bass or 50 direct  hits on boulders, whichever comes first.  I also suspect (but do not know for certain..) that the Gaines poppers are also sold under Cortland’s name, as well as several others.  They are US made in northern Potter county, PA by squadrons of little old ladies with tattoos on their arms and Marsh-Wheelings (the world’s only cigar that the more you smoke it, the longer it gets…) clamped in their teeth..:).  They are good poppers.  

Response:

Me too!  I’d really like to find a source of small poppers (size 16 hook preferred, size 14 acceptable), made ON A POPPER HOOK (one or two humps in hook shank to keep body from rotating), cork or plastic body, and with none of those silly, annoying rubber band legs that keep fish from touching "anything sharp" (like the hook).  I haven’t even seen the proper hooks to

make my own!  I used to

be able to purchase commercially exactly what I’ve described.

I just started tying my own bass poppers and flies using both hard bodies and deer hair.  I’ve been tying my own trout flies for a long time, but bass bug making is a whole new world – maybe in another 10 years I’ll get good at it!  :-)     You can get the hooks you mentioned from the Hook & Hackle Company. ‘Sorry, I’m at work and don’t have their catalog in front of me, but they are a big outfit and shouldn’t be hard to find….  They also carry pre-formed cork bodies, paint, and everything else you need to get started.  The hard (cork) bodied poppers are not difficult to tie, and would be a good place to start.  Try getting Dick Stewart’s book, which is entitled something like _Tying Bass Flies_.  The title may be off, but it’s the best book on the subject I have found.  Spinning and working with deer hair is a bit difficult to master, but if you already tie deer hair bodies trout flies, (like Muddler Minnows, Adams Irresistibles, etc.), you’ll have a head start.  Actually, these patterns also make good bass flies when tied in really large sizes. I am so sick and tired of cheap poppers that don’t float and/or fall apart after catching a few fish. Does A N Y B O D Y know of a catalog or web site with a good selection of quality poppers? I’ve read in articles about these new foam poppers that float well and are durable. They are on the high end, 3 or 4 bucks a piece, but I’d love to try some…can’t find them anywhere. —  Custom Internet Applications  John Scherrer/Marketing Specialist  Voice 814-756-4682 Fax 814-756-3416  http://www.cianow.com  "Creating websites that work!"

  ‘Hope this helps.   Cheers, and tight lines,   -Mark

Response:

Question:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Hello! Just one warning from disappointed customer! I had an accident in last august and i broke my Orvis rod. Of course my rod has so called no questions asked quarantee for 25 years since i’m the original owner. So i left my rod in local dealer which send it to local importer – This all happened in during august last year and now it is the beginning of the fishing season and the rod is still in repair!! Nice work Orvis – it is the last of your rods that i’m going to buy! I would be even willing to pay for a decent repair time but this is ridiculous. May this Orvis 25year quarantee means that i have to now wait for 23 years to get my rod repaired… Disappointed customer -Timo ps. IMHO No questions asked quarantees are not good for fly fishing – i’m afraid that smaller rod makers will suffer eventually since the amount of broken rods will increase when the rods gets older…

Same with me Timo, I had similar problem with Orvis in the Netherlands. Their unconditional waranty works great in USA, but outside you will have to wait about a full year to get your repair done or your rod replaced. I changed to Sage and my local dealer replaces every broken (if ever) Sage immediately and gets his from Sage within a few weeks. Ger.

Response:

I disagree, Dave. Having broken my PM-10 9′0" 8 wgt rod two years ago, I did some inquiries and found significant turnaround time between going thru the dealer and mailing it back directly to Orvis. My shipping costs were bearable given the fact that it was the height of saltwater season, and it took only 3 weeks to get it back.  Time is money, and when it comes to my fishing time, it’s worth $1000 an hour…. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Any Orvis dealer will take care of it for you.  Or you could ship directly to Orvis in Manchester, VT, but you’d pay the shipping charge.  Let your closest Orvis dealer do it.   Dave LaCourse

Response:

<<I disagree, Dave. Having broken my PM-10 9′0" 8 wgt rod two years ago, I did some inquiries and found significant turnaround time between going thru the dealer and mailing it back directly to Orvis. My shipping costs were bearable given the fact that it was the height of saltwater season, and it took only 3 weeks to get it back. First time I broke a rod (tip in a door – dumb), it took 4 weeks — through the dealer.  Second time (butt – fell on it — dumb) it took two weeks.  We’re about even.   Dave L.

Response:

When I needed my PM-10 9-wt replaced (I bought the rod for $145, on "clearance"), I walked into the Orvis Manchester, VT store, and the clerk walked into the back room and came out with a new rod.  I’d have to say it took about 30-40 seconds. Bob Scott Orvis fan

Response:

well that’s still better than a Reddington which is worth nothing – – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -What do you expect them to do after you paid eight times what the rod cost to build? — Ernie Harrison Remove NOSPAM to send E-mail I had great success with the Orvis guarantee.  I bought a trident in early 1997 that was a 1996 model discounted by about $100.00.  I broke the rod in the Summer of 1997 and returned it to my Orvis dealer here in Houston to get it repaired under the guarantee. The manager of the Houston store, Dave Haywood,  loaned me a replacement rod, a brand new Trident, and took my broken rod and sent it to Orvis in VT.  I didn’t even pay shipping charges.  Three weeks later Orvis sent me a brand new trident,  worth over $100.00 more than I had invested in the original rod.  I returned the loaner and have yet to spend a penny or to be inconvenienced much because of the broken rod.  When I think I could have been out a $400.00 rod I become ever more appreciative of the manner in which the whole affair was handled. I am not some crony of the store manager.  I met him when I bought the rod.  He had no reason to treat me any different than anyone else so I have to assume this is standard policy, at least here in the Houston area. It sounds like the troubles experienced with the guarantee are a function of the dealer.  I would bet a direct contact with the Orvis customer service people would get you the action you deserve. Tom

Ralph H note spurious hyperbole, insults and ‘personal attacks’ made by the author are meant to honour "the Soul of Cicero" and are not intended as personal slights. Please don’t take offense as none is intended. remove "(take_this_out)" for email reply.

Response:

Yes, I suppose the Reddington won’t be worth much either since Orvis bought them. — Ernie Harrison Remove NOSPAM to send E-mail GO TO http://users.ccnet.com/~emh FOR TRAVEL TIE BOX PLANS

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – well that’s still better than a Reddington which is worth nothing – What do you expect them to do after you paid eight times what the rod cost to build? — Ernie Harrison Remove NOSPAM to send E-mail I had great success with the Orvis guarantee.  I bought a trident in early 1997 that was a 1996 model discounted by about $100.00.  I broke the rod in the Summer of 1997 and returned it to my Orvis dealer here in Houston to get it repaired under the guarantee. The manager of the Houston store, Dave Haywood,  loaned me a replacement rod, a brand new Trident, and took my broken rod and sent it to Orvis in VT. I didn’t even pay shipping charges.  Three weeks later Orvis sent me a brand new trident,  worth over $100.00 more than I had invested in the original rod.  I returned the loaner and have yet to spend a penny or to be inconvenienced much because of the broken rod.  When I think I could have been out a $400.00 rod I become ever more appreciative of the manner in which the whole affair was handled. I am not some crony of the store manager.  I met him when I bought the rod.  He had no reason to treat me any different than anyone else so I have to assume this is standard policy, at least here in the Houston area. It sounds like the troubles experienced with the guarantee are a function of the dealer.  I would bet a direct contact with the Orvis customer service people would get you the action you deserve. Tom Ralph H note spurious hyperbole, insults and ‘personal attacks’ made by the author are meant to honour "the Soul of Cicero" and are not intended as personal slights. Please don’t take offense as none is intended. remove "(take_this_out)" for email reply.

Response:

Finally, someone who understands the truth behind these "Guarantees". – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -What do you expect them to do after you paid eight times what the rod cost to build? — Ernie Harrison Remove NOSPAM to send E-mail I had great success with the Orvis guarantee.  I bought a trident in early 1997 that was a 1996 model discounted by about $100.00.  I broke the rod in the Summer of 1997 and returned it to my Orvis dealer here in Houston to get it repaired under the guarantee. The manager of the Houston store, Dave Haywood,  loaned me a replacement rod, a brand new Trident, and took my broken rod and sent it to Orvis in VT.  I didn’t even pay shipping charges.  Three weeks later Orvis sent me a brand new trident,  worth over $100.00 more than I had invested in the original rod.  I returned the loaner and have yet to spend a penny or to be inconvenienced much because of the broken rod.  When I think I could have been out a $400.00 rod I become ever more appreciative of the manner in which the whole affair was handled. I am not some crony of the store manager.  I met him when I bought the rod.  He had no reason to treat me any different than anyone else so I have to assume this is standard policy, at least here in the Houston area. It sounds like the troubles experienced with the guarantee are a function of the dealer.  I would bet a direct contact with the Orvis customer service people would get you the action you deserve. Tom

Response:

What do you expect them to do after you paid eight times what the rod cost to build? — Ernie Harrison Remove NOSPAM to send E-mail – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I had great success with the Orvis guarantee.  I bought a trident in early 1997 that was a 1996 model discounted by about $100.00.  I broke the rod in the Summer of 1997 and returned it to my Orvis dealer here in Houston to get it repaired under the guarantee. The manager of the Houston store, Dave Haywood,  loaned me a replacement rod, a brand new Trident, and took my broken rod and sent it to Orvis in VT.  I didn’t even pay shipping charges.  Three weeks later Orvis sent me a brand new trident,  worth over $100.00 more than I had invested in the original rod.  I returned the loaner and have yet to spend a penny or to be inconvenienced much because of the broken rod.  When I think I could have been out a $400.00 rod I become ever more appreciative of the manner in which the whole affair was handled. I am not some crony of the store manager.  I met him when I bought the rod.  He had no reason to treat me any different than anyone else so I have to assume this is standard policy, at least here in the Houston area. It sounds like the troubles experienced with the guarantee are a function of the dealer.  I would bet a direct contact with the Orvis customer service people would get you the action you deserve. Tom

Response:

  I had an accident in last august and i broke my Orvis rod.   Of course my rod has so called no questions asked quarantee   for 25 years since i’m the original owner. So i left my rod in   local dealer which send it to local importer – This all happened   in during august last year and now it is the beginning of the   fishing season and the rod is still in repair!! Nice work Orvis –   it is the last of your rods that i’m going to buy! I would be even   willing to pay for a decent repair time but this is ridiculous.

I’ve had no problem with them at all – nor has anyone I’ve ever talked to.  They are prompt and courteous.  Even so, I’d never leave a rod and not do anything about it for months.  I always keep close tabs on my repairs, and have never had problems with _any_ company’s guarantee.  Things occasionally get lost or misplaced. What you didn’t tell us is what you have actually done to rectify the situation.  A simple call to Orvis would handle this without problem – something you should have done about 6 months ago.  It would be a hell of a lot more productive than taking time to rant on this newsgroup. Also, if you feel so strongly that these guarantees are bad for flyfishing, then 1) why did you not buy a rod from someone who doesn’t offer one and 2) why did you send your rod in for warrantee work?  If you actually feel this way, both of those actions are more than a little hypocritical. -tgades — Tony Gades. Seattle, WA.  USA http://weber.u.washington.edu/~tgades http://weber.u.washington.edu/~tgades/Fishing/fish_page.html NOTICE: DO NOT ADD MY NAME TO _ANY_ MAILING LISTS.  

Response:

Dave, thanks for the info. I was hoping I could do this. I still have the card that was attached to the registration card (which was already sent in) and it talks about shipping to their Vermont site. My problem was just trying to figure out how to get a box that it would fit in. Thanks again. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Bob Bently writes: <<With regards to the Orvis guarantee, can I take a rod to any Orvis dealer and have him ship it back for repair/replacement, or do I have to take it to the dealer I bought it from? Any Orvis dealer will take care of it for you.  Or you could ship directly to Orvis in Manchester, VT, but you’d pay the shipping charge.  Let your closest Orvis dealer do it. Dave LaCourse

Response:

Bob Bently writes:

<<With regards to the Orvis guarantee, can I take a rod to any Orvis dealer and have him ship it back for repair/replacement, or do I have to take it to the dealer I bought it from? Any Orvis dealer will take care of it for you.  Or you could ship directly to Orvis in Manchester, VT, but you’d pay the shipping charge.  Let your closest Orvis dealer do it.   Dave LaCourse

Response:

I had great success with the Orvis guarantee.  I bought a trident in early 1997 that was a 1996 model discounted by about $100.00.  I broke the rod in the Summer of 1997 and returned it to my Orvis dealer here in Houston to get it repaired under the guarantee. The manager of the Houston store, Dave Haywood,  loaned me a replacement rod, a brand new Trident, and took my broken rod and sent it to Orvis in VT.  I didn’t even pay shipping charges.  Three weeks later Orvis sent me a brand new trident,  worth over $100.00 more than I had invested in the original rod.  I returned the loaner and have yet to spend a penny or to be inconvenienced much because of the broken rod.  When I think I could have been out a $400.00 rod I become ever more appreciative of the manner in which the whole affair was handled. I am not some crony of the store manager.  I met him when I bought the rod.  He had no reason to treat me any different than anyone else so I have to assume this is standard policy, at least here in the Houston area. It sounds like the troubles experienced with the guarantee are a function of the dealer.  I would bet a direct contact with the Orvis customer service people would get you the action you deserve. Tom

Response:

With regards to the Orvis guarantee, can I take a rod to any Orvis dealer and have him ship it back for repair/replacement, or do I have to take it to the dealer I bought it from? I ask, because I broke my new Silver Label 8wt of the weekend. There is a dealer nearby, but I bought it from another dealer which is 3.5 hours away? Thanks for any info. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I had great success with the Orvis guarantee.  I bought a trident in early 1997 that was a 1996 model discounted by about $100.00.  I broke the rod in the Summer of 1997 and returned it to my Orvis dealer here in Houston to get it repaired under the guarantee. The manager of the Houston store, Dave Haywood,  loaned me a replacement rod, a brand new Trident, and took my broken rod and sent it to Orvis in VT.  I didn’t even pay shipping charges.  Three weeks later Orvis sent me a brand new trident,  worth over $100.00 more than I had invested in the original rod.  I returned the loaner and have yet to spend a penny or to be inconvenienced much because of the broken rod.  When I think I could have been out a $400.00 rod I become ever more appreciative of the manner in which the whole affair was handled. I am not some crony of the store manager.  I met him when I bought the rod.  He had no reason to treat me any different than anyone else so I have to assume this is standard policy, at least here in the Houston area. It sounds like the troubles experienced with the guarantee are a function of the dealer.  I would bet a direct contact with the Orvis customer service people would get you the action you deserve. Tom

Response:

Timo Harjunen writes:

<<I had an accident in last august and i broke my Orvis rod. Of course my rod has so called no questions asked quarantee for 25 years since i’m the original owner. So i left my rod in local dealer which send it to local importer – This all happened in during august last year and now it is the beginning of the fishing season and the rod is still in repair!! Nice work Orvis – it is the last of your rods that i’m going to buy! I would be even willing to pay for a decent repair time but this is ridiculous. It may be your local dealer that is the trouble, Timo.  I accidently broke two Orvis rods (at different times over the years) and they were "in the shop" four weeks (the longest period).  You should write to Orvis in Manchester, Vermont, USA, and ask them about it.   Do not expect your dealer to work for you on this.   I suspect you are in Finland — good Finnish names — so the mail may also be the culprit in all of this. Dave LaCourse

Response:

Hello! Just one warning from disappointed customer! I had an accident in last august and i broke my Orvis rod. Of course my rod has so called no questions asked quarantee for 25 years since i’m the original owner. So i left my rod in local dealer which send it to local importer – This all happened in during august last year and now it is the beginning of the fishing season and the rod is still in repair!! Nice work Orvis – it is the last of your rods that i’m going to buy! I would be even willing to pay for a decent repair time but this is ridiculous. May this Orvis 25year quarantee means that i have to now wait for 23 years to get my rod repaired… Disappointed customer -Timo ps. IMHO No questions asked quarantees are not good for fly fishing – i’m afraid that smaller rod makers will suffer eventually since the amount of broken rods will increase when the rods gets older…

Response:

Question:

I’m curious about how other fly fishermen use a one-person canoe to catch trout on moderate-sized rivers. Stop and wade most of the time? Or fish from a moving canoe? Does your strategy change when two persons are aboard? (I think we would all agree that canoes are quite different from drift boats with a guide at the oars.) Bob

I have a 12′ Katahdin – not exactly svelte with its 50-something beam – but it sure works well as a one-person flyfishing platform. For the most part I use it to get to a good spot, then either toss out the anchor and start casting, or get out onto dry land and cast from there. Depends on the river, obviously… On the other hand, I also have a old but trusty 16′ Lincoln canoe that is used when there are two sets of shoulders to wrestle it on/off my truck. Depending on the situation, we might have the stern man paddle along while the bow man casts, else we anchor or beach it and both cast… And if truth be told, on ponds or small lakes, we might even troll (there – I said it! ;^) but I’ve never done that on a river… Cheers! /dave <<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<< < Digital Equipment Corp.               Alpha Server Engineering < < Parker Street Campus                      Maynard, Massachusetts < < !!NOTE: Please replace "xxx" with "dec" to respond by email!!  < <<<<<<<<<<<<<< AMA 548313 <<<<<<<<<<<<<< Disclaimer: Opinion and content is mine alone, and unlikely to be                     shared by my employer, etc…

Response:

I’m curious about how other fly fishermen use a one-person canoe to catch trout on moderate-sized rivers. Stop and wade most of the time? Or fish from a moving canoe? Does your strategy change when two persons are aboard? (I think we would all agree that canoes are quite different from drift boats with a guide at the oars.) Bob

Response:

I’m curious about how other fly fishermen use a one-person canoe to catch trout on moderate-sized rivers. Stop and wade most of the time? Or fish from a moving canoe? Does your strategy change when two persons are aboard? (I think we would all agree that canoes are quite different from drift boats with a guide at the oars.) Bob

Bob, As a guide with a driftboat I found your post amusing….I sometimes when fishing on my own most certainly use the canoe when I do not feel like trailering and launching the boat (too much like work).  So I carry a small anchor that  I use to anchor in slow water alongside the riffs. Obviously under no circumstances do you want to anchor in fast water and never permanently attach your anchor line to the canoe…I use a slip knot.  Better to lose an anchor than yourself and all your gear.  A coffee can mold with concrete and an eye bolt set in it works great.  I have never had to ditch an anchor but safety first.  This is a great way to fish the big deep slow moving pools that you cannot usually reach.  Have fun and good fishing. James Ehlers Underhill, Vermont Uncle Jammer’s Guide Service Vermont Fly Fishing, Hunting, River and Woodland Outings http://pobox.com/~uncle

Response:

Question:

I’m sure Jason will remember you and that fish for the rest of his life. After all the "political" discussions on this group, your post came through loud and clear. Thanks for sharing it with us. Bob

Response:

John, Thanks for the story.  We can all take lessons from it.

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It was damned quiet off Kennebunkport yesterday morning. Rain fell steadily and large banks of fog rolled off Mount Agamenticus to the SW, as well as off Cape Porpoise to the North. The VHF was silent. No boats in sight anywhere. 2 miles out my 17′ Invader drifted slowly as I sent cast after cast out in search of the blues. They weren’t there either. I motored in towards Walker’s Point, casting towards the rocks, hoping for that big migratating cow striper. She wasn’t there either. Mid morning the sun broke through, the boats came out and I knew it was time to leave. I can never stop fishing, so after docking I started making roll casts off the swim platform. On the first of these I saw a striper come out from under the dock opposite me and take the small deceiver. It was a small one, but fun for sure. I caught a motion from the corner of my eye and turned to see Jason, the 8 year old from the slip next door. Jason, like me, is possessed by fish. Every time I go to the marina he’s there, looking into the depths for a glimpse of a striper or catching sand eels or crabs. The kid loves fish. One arm was in a cast, one of those accidents we all have. The other held a sandwich. Another roll casts produced another fish, this one felt considerably larger, and I passed the rod to Jason. He fought the fish well for a kid with a cast and a sandwich, but a last minute head shake gave the first round to the stripers. It was enough,though, to make him an instant addict. "Finish your sandwich, then pick out the fly that will get your first striper" I told him. He picked a 2/0 white and blue deceiver and held it out to me confidently. It didn’t take many casts before his fly hooked into a good schoolie. I reeled quickly to get the fish on the reel, then jammed the fighting butt between the buckles on his life vets, propped his encasted hand on the rod blank and put his good hand on the reel. A small crowd formed to cheer him on as the schoolie darted and dove. Finally we saw leader, and I grabbed it and pulled his prize out. He held it briefly, then we released it and it swam back under the dock as the crowd cheered. We didn’t catch any more fish, as the water dropped below 2′, but the kid was airborne all day. He sorted my flies into two piles, good ones and bad ones. An instant fly connoisseur, he placed most of my creations in the bad pile :- "I bet this one would work on mackeral" he said, picking out a tiny #4 blonde type pattern. We spent the afternoon talking of fish and fishing, and after washing the boat down and heading for my truck I realized that I’d finally found something more fun that fishing. As I headed toward the driveway Dan, the dockmaster, called out to me. He too is a fly fisherman, and watched the day’s events. "That was fun wasn’t it ?" he asked, and I told him yeah it was great. "Could it be that he reminds you of someone you know ?" he winked. I went home and dug up my lighter 8 weight, looking forward to the casting lessons soon to come.                                                 jc

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Question:

There seems to be some debate as to whether an Orvis rod warranty can be transferred with the sale of a rod.  Does it only apply to the original owner?  This would seem foolish as Orvis shouldn’t really care.  A warranty such as their one of 25 years is an implication of faith in their products, not the purchasers.  I am looking at buying a used rod and would greatly appreciate any feedback (perhaps from Orvis or a dealer?).   Thank you. Paul Tickner

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Orvis: built to last, not to cast. Just kidding guys.. Frankie

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I recently sold an Orvis rod, and carefully read the warranty card.  It indicated that the 25yr warranty was only good for the original owner. Hope this helps Rich There seems to be some debate as to whether an Orvis rod warranty can be transferred with the sale of a rod.  Does it only apply to the original owner?  This would seem foolish as Orvis shouldn’t really care.  A warranty such as their one of 25 years is an implication of faith in their products, not the purchasers.  I am looking at buying a used rod and would greatly appreciate any feedback (perhaps from Orvis or a dealer?).   Thank you. Paul Tickner

– Rich Miyara 74 Anderson Hill Enfield NH  03748 Phone:  (603) 650-7827 wk Home:   (603) 632-4090 hm (bef. 9PM ET)

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Sage is the same (i.e. warranty good for original owner only).

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I’ve broken my Orvis Rocky Mtn. 4pc 4 wt. 3 times in 3 different sections in the last year and a half, got them all repaired or more like replaced, didn’t spend a dime, well $5 for shipping. I’m sold on the 25 yr. warranty, as to whether it’s built to last or to cast…. it’s up to you, but it’s sure nice to have a rod that you can treated like a real fishing equipment rather than a piece of heirloom that you might damage on the stream, which i think sure takes the fun out of fishing…….

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Sorry- Orvis rod guarantees only apply to orginal owners of the rod. I know because I just bought a new orvis and thats what ist said on the warranty. I bet that you could just get the person who sold you the rod to trade it in forr you though- or just have them brake it before they sell it to you so you can start out with a new rod. I would not assume that orvis would like this- but it is a no questions asked guarante. tight lines! -matt

: There seems to be some debate as to whether an Orvis rod warranty can be : transferred with the sale of a rod.  Does it only apply to the original : owner?  This would seem foolish as Orvis shouldn’t really care.  A : warranty such as their one of 25 years is an implication of faith in their : products, not the purchasers.  I am looking at buying a used rod and would : greatly appreciate any feedback (perhaps from Orvis or a dealer?).   : Thank you. : Paul Tickner

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I’ve broken my Orvis Rocky Mtn. 4pc 4 wt. 3 times in 3 different sections in the last year and a half, [snip] it’s sure nice to have a rod that you can treated like a real fishing equipment rather than a piece of heirloom that you might damage on the stream, which i think sure takes the fun out of fishing…….

Then again, one should treat a nice graphite rod as something other than a walking stick!!  A nice graphite rod is a delicate and wonderful tool, and deserves better than to be whipped mercilessly upon the water and beat against every stream bank and overhanging tree limb in sight!!! ___ Bob Scott  WY7O | Roses are red, Violets are blue

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Then again, one should treat a nice graphite rod as something other than a walking stick!!  A nice graphite rod is a delicate and wonderful tool, and deserves better than to be whipped mercilessly upon the water and beat against every stream bank and overhanging tree limb in sight!!!

Unless it is an Orvis! Frankie

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I’ve broken my Orvis Rocky Mtn. 4pc 4 wt. 3 times in 3 different sections in the last year and a half, got them all repaired or more like replaced, didn’t spend a dime, well $5 for shipping. I’m sold on the 25 yr. warranty, as to whether it’s built to last or to cast…. it’s up to you, but it’s sure nice to have a rod that you can treated like a real fishing equipment rather than a piece of heirloom that you might damage on the stream, which i think sure takes the fun out of fishing…….

St Croix, (I can hear some of you moaning already) has the same guarantee. I just broke a Premier Graphite 8′ 4-wt.  Called St Croix, explained what had happened (involves my wife, my fly-rod and the basement door), they said to mail it to them with a check for $5.00 shipping and handling and they would replace it.  Came three days ago…brand new…pretty as can be. Now if only the rivers would thaw….      I’m sorry but my karma is broken, anyone know a good mechanic?

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I bought an Orvis d"demo" rod from a dealer, and proceeded to splinter the tip of the rod as well as rot out the reel seat. I was never asked by Orvis to provide proof of original ownership, and had the rod replaced immediately. In fact, Orvis did not have any similar rods in stock, and allowed me to purchase a replacement rod myself, which I was credited for upon them receiving the original damage goods.

: Sorry- Orvis rod guarantees only apply to orginal owners of the rod. I : know because I just bought a new orvis and thats what ist said on the : warranty. I bet that you could just get the person who sold you the rod : to trade it in forr you though- or just have them brake it before they : sell it to you so you can start out with a new rod. I would not assume : that orvis would like this- but it is a no questions asked guarante. : tight lines! : -matt

: : There seems to be some debate as to whether an Orvis rod warranty can be : : transferred with the sale of a rod.  Does it only apply to the original : : owner?  This would seem foolish as Orvis shouldn’t really care.  A : : warranty such as their one of 25 years is an implication of faith in their : : products, not the purchasers.  I am looking at buying a used rod and would : : greatly appreciate any feedback (perhaps from Orvis or a dealer?).   : : Thank you. : : Paul Tickner

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Amen.  I just recently picked up the habit, and dove right in with a Rocky Mountain 6 wt, 4 piece.  I’m relieved to hear that they back it up the way they claim. Also, I agree that fishing is more enjoyable without breaks to clear ice from the guides. If have any recommended streams in the southeast, drop a line.  I spend a lot of time in NC and the mountains of VA. Evan

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