Question:

To make things interesting, well actually I just need some patterns to tie, but what are your favorite patterns for the following: 1) BWO pattern 2) Green Drake pattern 3) Caddis pattern 4) Salmon fly pattern 5) Hopper pattern 6) Nymph 7) Streamer PMD pattern Thanks, Warren

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Well here’s my list. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text —— Original Message —– Newsgroups: rec.outdoors.fishing.fly Sent: Saturday, March 17, 2001 10:58 PM To make things interesting, well actually I just need some patterns to tie, but what are your favorite patterns for the following: 1) BWO pattern   – SR2 emerger 2) Green Drake pattern – Parachute Green Drake. 3) Caddis pattern – DRY – CDC & Elk hair.  Nymph – Green rock worm. Emerger – CDC & Biot. 4) Salmon fly pattern – Improved Sofa Pillow or Stimulator. 5) Hopper pattern – Joe’s Hopper 6) Nymph – All purpose – GRHE, or PT 7) Streamer – Black Woolybugger or Wool head muddler. PMD pattern – PMD comparadun. Thanks, Warren Bob Weinberger

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Question:

<SNIP Another question: Are Midges ever fished Below the surface film? When?

midges or more properly chironomids are best fished with pupae imitations in still water. As the pupae rises slowly through several feet of water before hatching at the surface trout frequently feed on these well below the surface – often just a few feet of the bottom. Long leaders and bead head imitations are popular in many still water locations.

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I regularly fish some nearby ponds.  The most consistent bugs are midges and small mayflies, the trout grow large.  The best fishing often occurs in low light conditions, very early morning or twilight.  Since my eyes aren’t the best, I’ve had to improvise.  I tie a series of dry and damp flies on 18" to 30" pieces of tippet.  If I break one off or need to change flies I just run my hand down the leader until I find the knot and snap off the tippet. Then it’s relatively easy to attach a new tippet with a surgeon’s knot.  I fish from a john boat and arrange the new tippets in the bow of the boat with the hooks in some foam and the lines loosely coiled.  The change only takes a few seconds.  I’ve used the same system on the river with mixed results. Joe   —

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<SNIP Another question: Are Midges ever fished Below the surface film? When?

Hi Bob, years ago all flies were tied to gut or horsehair, and the lengths were attached to the leader as required.  I would advise longer lengths than six inches if you do this, eighteen inches or so probably being better. Longer pieces get progressively more unmanageable. You will need to use "cast carriers" as well to keep your stuff from tangling, these can be as simple as pieces of card with slits cut in them to wrap the tippet and fly around. Loops as you suggest at six inches or less, that near your fly would just cause a mess, and ruin your presentation, as knots probably would too. I have seen an elderly gentleman using old plastic line spools with a piece of foam stuck to both sides  for this as well, he had a couple of about twenty four inch lengths wrapped round the spool, and the fly stuck in the foam.  Seemed to work OK. He was knotting the tippet directly to the end of his leader. If I was obliged to do this I would consider using the tiny silver rings available for this purpose, and attaching these to the end of the leader, then just attach the tippet with an improved clinch. These are very small, but a great deal easier to thread than a small fly eye. Midges can be fished very successfully just below the film, most especially pupa imitations. This is particularly effective during a rise of course. Adult midges may also be fished sub-surface. In cases where the trout are feeding on indeterminate minutiae a cream midge size 22 has worked quite well for me, although I very rarely fish flies this small usually. This may be fished at any depth, though not too deep seems to work best. Nymphing with a black or brown midge pupa is often very successful indeed. TL MC

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- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I regularly fish some nearby ponds.  The most consistent bugs are midges and small mayflies, the trout grow large.  The best fishing often occurs in low light conditions, very early morning or twilight.  Since my eyes aren’t the best, I’ve had to improvise.  I tie a series of dry and damp flies on 18" to 30" pieces of tippet.  If I break one off or need to change flies I just run my hand down the leader until I find the knot and snap off the tippet. Then it’s relatively easy to attach a new tippet with a surgeon’s knot.  I fish from a john boat and arrange the new tippets in the bow of the boat with the hooks in some foam and the lines loosely coiled.  The change only takes a few seconds.  I’ve used the same system on the river with mixed results. Joe –I have the same problem.  I haven’t tried it yet, but am going to pretie tippets to fly, but longer tippets.  I would store theam coiled up in small zip-lock bags,( suach as tying materials come in) with a piece of paper or cardboard inside with specs of conteants.  Jusst make sure you have a leader straightener with you.  Also Ernie Harrisons knot machine works great and faastens to vest.

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Hi All, I have had the same problem.  I came up with 3 solutions. 1.  I purchased magnifier glasses called Flip Focus which attach to my sunglasses and can be purchased in varying powers.  Try Bob Marriotts in Southern California. 2.  I tie my tiny flies on Orvis large eye hooks. 3.  I use an Orvis threader box which contains a bunch of different sized threaders.  As stated by V. Ursenbach, these threaders will not work on very small flies.  However, with the Orvis large eye hooks I have had no problems.  So far, that is. Pete

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Hello: I would appreciate any opinions on the following: Looking at some REALLY small midge flies I recently received, and appreciating my eyesight degrading a bit each year, I am thinking about pre-tying a length of, perhaps, 6 inches of #7 tippet to each fly now, in the comfort of my warm kitchen. Trying to do it on the stream seems like it would be an exercise in near futility for me. I have enough troubles threading a size 12 or 14 fly these days. I guess I would also tie a loop in the other end, and use a loop to loop connection to the #6 or #7 regular leader tippet I have on the end of my line. -Does this sound reasonable? -Loop to loop only 6" from the fly-present any new, unique, problems? Another question: Are Midges ever fished Below the surface film? When? Thanks, Bob

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You can fish midges any way you want, surface, in the film or below the film.  They work anytime a hatch is going on or not.  Midges are versitile meaning they are everywhere all the time.  Fish them below the surface with a sinktip, no need to even strip, just let it sit. The results can be surprising.  The loop connection may work, I don’t see why not.  Make them in different lengths so you can see if there is a difference. Good Luck, Forrest — Forrest http://www.FlyFishingREVIEW.com FlyFishingREVIEW.com Before you buy.

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A cheaper solution than even this is a needle threader, available at the sewing notions section of you local store. . . .

One problem with this option: the needle threader will not go through the eye of a small midge. Sometimes I use #18 & #20 hooks and find the eye only large enough to push a single strand of line through.  I should say that I use 7X leader.  If I try to fold the line and push it through to make a polymer knot or such like knot the hook eye is to small.  Pushing a needle threader, which has a rounded end and double thickness of wire, is therefore impossible.  Especially when you try to put the leader in the loop and pull the threader back through with the doubled line.  When you pull it through there is now 2 thickness of line and 2 thickness or wire.  If the eye is to small to put 2 thickness of line through, how can 2 thickness of line and 2 thickness of wire go through?  It’s a nice idea, but it just will not work. Vern

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I have been interested in this thread, too. I often use small flies (#18-22) and light tippets (7X). The light tippet lacks the rigidity to "poke around ’til ya hit the hole." And my eyesight… no it’s the tippet material. That’s my story, and I’m sticking to it… Anyway, I did some testing yesterday (Sunday 11/14). I bought needle threaders at a fabric/sewing store: 3 for 99 cents. I tried the threader on a #20 midge. It didn’t work at first. I then smashed the wire to a sharp point. It didn’t work,  either. I then used the "eye cleaner" on my clipper to completely clear the eye. The flattened wire went through it fine. I pulled through 5X tippet material.  Some one mentioned it may bruise to tippet material, so I used as little on the tag end as I could. I clipped the suspect part of the tippet and tied my too-many-turn clinch knot. I have attached the needle threader to my vest. Brad in Houston

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – A cheaper solution than even this is a needle threader, available at the sewing notions section of you local store. . . . One problem with this option: the needle threader will not go through the eye of a small midge. Sometimes I use #18 & #20 hooks and find the eye only large enough to push a single strand of line through.  I should say that I use 7X leader.  If I try to fold the line and push it through to make a polymer knot or such like knot the hook eye is to small.  Pushing a needle threader, which has a rounded end and double thickness of wire, is therefore impossible.  Especially when you try to put the leader in the loop and pull the threader back through with the doubled line.  When you pull it through there is now 2 thickness of line and 2 thickness or wire.  If the eye is to small to put 2 thickness of line through, how can 2 thickness of line and 2 thickness of wire go through?  It’s a nice idea, but it just will not work. Vern

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Bob- something I’ve been doig for about four years now for late evening fishing with midges and other small flies, too! I use about a 10-12" piece of tippet material and leave the end plain than use a surgeon’s knot to tie it into my leader….. great for the early mornings when the arthritic fingers haven’t started working yet either! I use clear film cans to store the flies with a small piece of funfoam on the hook points so they don’t tangle…. cut slits down the sides of the film can from the top rim and then slide the tippet through the slit so you can store them individually…. I get 6 or 8 in a can. Personally, I don’t care for loop to loop, especially when I’m fishing something that small and on that light of a leader…it adds two more knots into the equation and increases the chance of failure even more in my mind. As for below the film? Yeah, when they get slimed or forced under by a ripple… I mean short of ca cripple midge, I prefer to fish em on the surface and like using either CDC  as a "loop post" or white Arctic Fox mask as a post to increase visibility. Larry #:)#

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Hi Bob, I’ve seen  a fly box that has sprung steel threaders on which you store the flies.  When you need to tie one on you place the tippet thorugh the threader remove the fly already threaded.  This will certainly help with 12’s, 14 and 16 but I’m not sure whether smaller flies will fit. Perhaps its worth a look. Steve

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Steve: <<Hi Bob, I’ve seen  a fly box that has sprung steel threaders on which you store the flies.  When you need to tie one on you place the tippet thorugh the threader remove the fly already threaded.  This will certainly help with 12’s, 14 and 16 but I’m not sure whether smaller flies will fit. Perhaps its worth a look. Orvis sells two.  For $39 and $28!  Yikes!  Go to an Orvis store and see if it will take 18-22.  Probably will.  I have the same problem, Bob, but I have solved it by using fold-down magnifiers.  You can get them in different magnification powers.  Cheaper than the Orvis trick box. Dave L.

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0] : Steve: : <<Hi Bob, : I’ve seen  a fly box that has sprung steel threaders on which you store : the flies.  When you need to tie one on you place the tippet thorugh the : threader remove the fly already threaded.  This will certainly help : with 12’s, 14 and 16 but I’m not sure whether smaller flies will fit. : Perhaps its worth a look. : Orvis sells two.  For $39 and $28!  Yikes!  Go to an Orvis store and : see if it will take 18-22.  Probably will.  I have the same problem, : Bob, but I have solved it by using fold-down magnifiers.  You can : get them in different magnification powers.  Cheaper than the : Orvis trick box. : Dave L. A cheaper solution than even this is a needle threader, available at the sewing notions section of you local store, three to a package, about $1. It’s a loop of fine music wire staked to a dime sized piece of thin aluminum. You’ll need to pinch the tip of the threader down a bit with pliers or forceps to fit hook eyes–its oblong for needle eyes as it comes. You poke it through the hook eye, put the tippet through the loop and pull it back through. It bruises the tippet a little bit where the wire pulls on it, so discard that little tag end. I find I can pull 5x through #22 eyes, no problem. They last anywhere from 0 to 100 threadings, so carry spares, they’re cheap. I have mine, attached with a bit of mono through a hole punched in the aluminum, on the same zinger as my tippet nipper. A bit of super glue where the wire is attached to the aluminum does help the durability. Mike — Michael McGuire                     Hewlett Packard Laboratories  (remove x’s from email if not      Palo Alto, CA 94303-0971   a spammer) Phone: (650)-857-5491              

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When fishing light tippets, a longer tippet gives you more protection from break offs because of its ability to stretch. I’ve been tempted to pretie tippets but I couldn’t come up with a good way to store them and keep them from tangling in my vest. Instead, I keep a cheap pair of reading glasses in my vest (even though I don’t REALLY need them for reading). I buy at the Dollar store and usually get 2X strength. They help alot. Midges can be fished anywhere in the water column from the film on down. Deep nymphing with midges is very popular on tailwaters.  I was out on my home river (not a tailwater) this AM. The only thing coming off were a few midges. Nothing was rising or sipping but I caught several fish on a 22 midge drifted along the bottom of the runs at the heads of several pools. I came across a huge, dead, hook jawed Brown of about 26". Too old to handle the rigors of spawning, I guess. Willi – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Hello: I would appreciate any opinions on the following: Looking at some REALLY small midge flies I recently received, and appreciating my eyesight degrading a bit each year, I am thinking about pre-tying a length of, perhaps, 6 inches of #7 tippet to each fly now, in the comfort of my warm kitchen. Trying to do it on the stream seems like it would be an exercise in near futility for me. I have enough troubles threading a size 12 or 14 fly these days. I guess I would also tie a loop in the other end, and use a loop to loop connection to the #6 or #7 regular leader tippet I have on the end of my line. -Does this sound reasonable? -Loop to loop only 6" from the fly-present any new, unique, problems? Another question: Are Midges ever fished Below the surface film? When? Thanks, Bob

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…Looking at some REALLY small midge flies I recently received, and appreciating my eyesight degrading a bit each year, I am thinking about pre-tying a length of, perhaps, 6 inches of #7 tippet to each fly now, in the comfort of my warm kitchen.

There are a couple of problems with this idea.  First, six inches of tippet is much to short for just about any circumstances.  This puts your knot in a very visible location in addition  to doing horrible things to the mechanics of casting.  Second, appropriate tippet length is highly variable and depends on the situation at hand.  For example, in very slow clear water one would ordinarily use a greater length of tippet in order to keep the fly as far as possible from the fly line, and to allow a more natural looking drift.  Since a very long tippet can make casting more difficult (just as a very short one can) one can’t simply always use the long one either.  Third, appropriate tippet diameter is also variable and for the same reasons as above.  Fourth, tippet material is hard enough to keep under control when it is on a spool.  Having a bunch of flies in your vest with lengths of tippet attached would cause a nightmare of snarling and unintended knots. All in all, I think it is much better to acquire and use whatever corrective eye wear you can find. Good luck.

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Hello: I would appreciate any opinions on the following: Looking at some REALLY small midge flies I recently received, and appreciating my eyesight degrading a bit each year, I am thinking about pre-tying a length of, perhaps, 6 inches of #7 tippet to each fly now, in the comfort of my warm kitchen. Trying to do it on the stream seems like it would be an exercise in near futility for me. I have enough troubles threading a size 12 or 14 fly these days. I guess I would also tie a loop in the other end, and use a loop to loop connection to the #6 or #7 regular leader tippet I have on the end of my line. -Does this sound reasonable? -Loop to loop only 6" from the fly-present any new, unique, problems? Another question: Are Midges ever fished Below the surface film? When? Thanks, Bob

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Question:

Hi gang,   I’m fishing this area while on vacation next week. I’d be glad to hear any advice from people who know the area. I’m looking to catch trout, not planning to keep any, and hope to get some photos of some nice ones. Jerry

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Check out the thread "Michigan Flyfishing Spots For Vacation" George Adams

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Try http://www.troutbums.com/.

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Question:

We developed SneakPeek postings as a result of many Usenet users’ desire for a summarizing tool that would help them skim through the most active threads.  Thus, SneakPeek postings are intended to help users with limited time keep abreast of group discussions, stay in touch with more groups, and check out new groups quickly. Usenet is an environment where every voice should count equally.  However, while some users have found SneakPeek postings useful, others have tried to shout it down, potentially resulting in the tyranny of a vocal few. Therefore, we encourage all to post their constructive opinions so that we may democratically decide if there is room for SneakPeek postings in Usenet. Talkway, Inc. http://www.talkway.com The rest of this message summarizes the most active recent threads in this newsgroup. *** Jonathan Cook:  … First, we have been consistent that "selective harvest" is OK. So, throwing back small ones (or big ones) is not a problem. Since I cannot always target an exact fish like I can say, a deer, throwing back those out of the regulated keepable sizes or species is fine.  … *** eaguilr:  … I am very curious about your evidence that suggests that most C&K fishers gon only once a month or less.  What is yor dats source on this?  how do you know this?  … *** Ralph H:  … RESPONSE GENERATED BY AUTO-BOT I don’t have a problem with these basic propositions. I don’t have a problem with replacing most c&r or zero retention waters with a restricited  slot limit. I wouldn’t have a probl;em with applying that to more delicate populations like steehead as long as the slot enacted  … *** Jonathan McAnulty:  … One thing you might consider is the type of water you intend to paddle. A sea kayak is not very good for any rivers with rapids (even easy rapids) that require fast turns to be made. Also, rocky rivers may damage the boat if it is made of fiberglass/gelcoat. Since most sea  … *** DavPLaC: Jon writes, in part: rocky rivers or ones that require more maneuvering you may want to consider some of the high-volume plastic whitewater kayaks or a sit on top whitewater kayak. These can be plenty big enough and will take a lot  … *** Jonathan McAnulty:  … Here’s a few things to think about. First, materials: fiberglass is a better performer because its stiffer but it breaks easier and requires more repair. However, it is easier to repair if you need it. Plastic is much tougher. The uses you describe are unlikely to ever need to have  … *** info: Monday, August 17, 1998     4:26:33 AM Please, could you tell me what a Patriot Fly is?  Perhaps a short description  I have not heard of this pattern and it has piqued my interest.  … *** W.D.Grey:  … Hook            TMC 7999, Mustad 36890, sizes2-6 Thread          Black 6/0 prewaxed Tail            Red hackle fibres Rib             Fine oval silver tinsel  … *** Vincent Norris:  … The pattern Charlie presents on pages 197-8 of his  book, _Patterns, Hatches, Tactics, and Trout_, is entirely different from the one submitted above: Hook:    Mustad 94833, sizes #10-18 Thread:  Red Tails:   Brown hackle fibers Body:    Smolt blue Krystal Flash wound around the shank.  … *** Harry Mason:  … In retrospect:  …   A bit trite but it has some merit *** asadi: if you want to eat fish –  go to the grocery and get farm raised fish…the pressure is too great to sustain any but C and R.  … *** Moe Skeeter:  … This is the first mantra excerpted from the TU brainwashing tapes "Are you Lefty ?". *** Jonathan Cook:  … If there was only one white-only drinking fountain, would that make it OK? *** dave bottom:  … Stupid hyperbole. Not the same thing. Letting F&W manage waters with special regs to ensure that the fish survive makes sense to me. Now saying that I’d also like to say that as a parent of some kids, who don’t fly cast very well, having all/most/lots of water be special regs can be a hassle when trying to get your kid worming up some  … *** RLPPT: The situation in Pennsylvania is more complex than the substance of the original post.  A small but vocal group here called "TAP" (Traditional Anglers of Pennsylvania) are issuing a challenge that I always felt would eventually come..  Why are some of the best trout streams on public land managed under  … Talkway, Inc. http://www.talkway.com

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[completely snipped: who needs it?] Talk about irony: the one endless thread that no roffian can escape is presented in Reader’s Digest fashion to the group that spawned the original. A mass of helpless bytes were thus senselessly slaughtered… What a waste… /dave <<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<< < Digital Equipment Corp.               Alpha Server Engineering < < Parker Street Campus                      Maynard, Massachusetts < < !!NOTE: Please replace "xxx" with "dec" to respond by email!!  < <<<<<<<<<<<<<< AMA 548313 <<<<<<<<<<<<<< Disclaimer: Opinion and content is mine alone, and unlikely to be                     shared by my employer, etc…

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Question:

White’s Pond in Concord has great fly fishing.  I generally fish it Dave LaCourse

Thanks for the tip. I have fished Whites a couple of times, but with non-fly tackle, and have, in fact, caught rainbows and a brown. I have heard that fishing the deep dropoffs with a fly in summer works, but have not actually tried it. Both Hopkinton Res and Ashland Res are stocked as well, and I’ve been dying to try them. Steve

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White’s Pond in Concord has great fly fishing.  I generally fish it Dave LaCourse Thanks for the tip. I have fished Whites a couple of times, but with non-fly tackle, and have, in fact, caught rainbows and a brown. I have heard that fishing the deep dropoffs with a fly in summer works, but have not actually tried it. Both Hopkinton Res and Ashland Res are stocked as well, and I’ve been dying to try them. Steve

Someone told me that Hopkington res. has lanlocked salmon. Is this true? Gary

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my opinion steve would be to fish these ponds when ever the sun is at its lowest point either in morning till 10 or in the eve till dark.for those ponds that contain brwns fish the shallows with any type of black stramer you have the black against a nite sky works well with them i could go into great detail but i just started typing and its driving crazy i think ill go to the pnd and relax byefor now

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Not true.  The state dumps in some of the spawned out Atlantic salmon brood stock from the Connecticuit/Merrimack salmon restoration program though.   Both the Wachusett and Quabbin have landlock populations and there is a good run on Wachusett tribs in the fall but it gets hammered by every sort of "fisherman" one could imagine and a few that can’t be believed. Even so, I always give it a try and have even landed two! Doug  

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Someone told me that Hopkington res. has lanlocked salmon. Is this true? Gary

Some of the deeper res. are occasionally stocked with broodstock salmon (i.e. old salmon that are producing good eggs for the stocking program anymore.) I believe Hopkinton and Ashland are, and I know Middle Cochituate is. You can call 1-800-ask-fish and follow the voice menu to find out exactly which lakes were stocked this spring with broodstock salmon. Steve

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Question:

Reading a local fishing ‘zine I found an article where the author claimed the use of really long leaders (16 to 25 feet) is unique to the Kamloops BC area. These leaders are favoured for chironomid and nymph fishing with a floating line and a weighted pattern. I seem to remember reading of this technique in US sources 10 or 15 years ago, well before I heard about it’s use in BC – and I suspect the technique may have been introduced to the area by visiting US anglers. Does anyone know about it’s use south of the 49th parallel for stillwater nymph fishing? Ralph H

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  Newsgroups: rec.outdoors.fishing.fly   Reading a local fishing ‘zine I found an article where the author claimed   the use of really long leaders (16 to 25 feet) is unique to the Kamloops BC   area. These leaders are favoured for chironomid and nymph fishing   with a floating line and a weighted pattern.   Does anyone know about it’s use south of the 49th parallel for stillwater   nymph fishing?   Ralph H

Leaders of that length are common on the South Island, New Zealand – especially for stillwater and for spot-fishing for large browns in rivers. Do you have formulae for these long leaders?  All I can ever find is 12′, and I’d like to tie some longer ones before I return next Feb. (98). cheers,         -tgades — Tony Gades. Seattle, WA.  USA http://weber.u.washington.edu/~tgades http://weber.u.washington.edu/~tgades/Fishing/fish_page.html email: replace the "this_address_is_wrong" with "tgades"

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I make my own very long leaders for use with size 24 to 28 downwings. I noticed that very large trout in our area come up to the surface to sip up small flies in the evening. When it is calm, you can barely see the surface disturbance. Usually it’s out in the middle of the lake. I then stalk the fish by canoe and wait to see another rise and then I try to guess where the fish is headed and cast in front. It’s a lot of work but I can usually catch a few nice fish. The long leaders I use are about 16 to 18 feet long and terminate at about 3/4 lb test.     P.S. up our way, the fish very often have no other food source because these lakes have no other fish species or minnows in them…..the trout are obliged to eat insects.

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– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text –   Newsgroups: rec.outdoors.fishing.fly   Reading a local fishing ‘zine I found an article where the author claimed   the use of really long leaders (16 to 25 feet) is unique to the Kamloops BC   area. These leaders are favoured for chironomid and nymph fishing   with a floating line and a weighted pattern.   Does anyone know about it’s use south of the 49th parallel for stillwater   nymph fishing?   Ralph H Leaders of that length are common on the South Island, New Zealand – especially for stillwater and for spot-fishing for large browns in rivers. Do you have formulae for these long leaders?  All I can ever find is 12′, and I’d like to tie some longer ones before I return next Feb. (98).

The only reference I have ( I haven’t fished leaders this long ) is to start with a 12ft commercial leader add a couple of feet of 20lb test to the butt end ( for a #6 line) and a couple of feet of tippet to the business end; 16 foot leader. A friend of mine who fishes the kamloops lakes a lot ( now lives up there) eschews tapered leaders period for nymphs etc. "You say I need 10foot leader 4x tippet?" and he just pulls 10feet worth of his 4x spool and loops  it to the end of line. Ralph H

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Reading a local fishing ‘zine I found an article where the author claimed the use of really long leaders (16 to 25 feet) is unique to the Kamloops BC area. These leaders are favoured for chironomid and nymph fishing with a floating line and a weighted pattern. I seem to remember reading of this technique in US sources 10 or 15 years ago, well before I heard about it’s use in BC – and I suspect the technique may have been introduced to the area by visiting US anglers. Does anyone know about it’s use south of the 49th parallel for stillwater nymph fishing? Ralph H

Hi Ralph, Hal Janssen of northern California has been promoting 25 foot leader on floating lines with streamline, fast sinking nymphs for over 20 years. Bill Kiene Kiene’s Fly Shop Sacramento,CA,USA 800/4000FLY

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   The book _Flyfisher_, by Jeremy Lucas, describes the use of really long leaders (often with a dropper or two) for stillwater nymphing in Britain. Though he does not say so directly, I infer from his descriptions that this is a standard technique for lake fishing in the UK.  This book is very well written and a worthwhile read for anyone interested in stillwater ffing.  I have tried some of his techniques and patterns, but I have not tried leaders over 12′.  I suspect that you could apply the 60:20:20 % formula to any desired length of leader.  The hatchery rainbows in the one lake I fish fairly often don’t seem to need a 20 ft leader or 8x tippet, but anything is worth a try on a bad day… –Roger, Portland OR

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Question:

Faster than a broomstick?

Response:

Anyone who claims that Lamiglas rods have slow actions have not cast them. Besides, which line of lamiglas blanks are you referring to G-1000, Certified-Pro, LHS, IM-700? If the higher-end lamiglas blanks have a fault, it is that they are TOO FAST, not too slow.

Lamiglas still makes a line of glass rods.  They are very well made, and have a wonderfully slow action similar to split cane. Their GRAPHITE rods, OTOH, are like lightning. I like their style.  Most folks want a fast rod, but some people don’t, so they make something for everyone. CQ

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(Farkward P. Parkenfarker) writes:    Newsgroups: rec.outdoors.fishing.fly    Organization: Prehensile University    Their rods enjoy a certain cachet among steelheaders.  They have slower    actions than many of the high modulus jobs and many people prefer that.    To be fair, they tend to be a bit heavier than the competition. Anyone who claims that Lamiglas rods have slow actions have not cast them.

I bow before your obviously superior knowledge. Besides, which line of lamiglas blanks are you referring to G-1000, Certified-Pro, LHS, IM-700?

I’ve owned two G1000’s and one LHS.  I used them quite a lot, for steelhead and stripers, and I’m sure I know how they cast.   If the higher-end lamiglas blanks have a fault, it is that they are TOO FAST, not too slow.

I’m not sure what I did to provoke this, but if you insist, I’ll agree that Lamiglas makes the fastest damned rods on the planet. — "…but no religious Test shall ever be required as a Qualification to any Office or public Trust under the United States." Article VI, US Constitution

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I own three Lamiglass rods.. Two flyrods and a Salmon/steelhead casting rod. The 8.5 ‘ 6/7 wt I have owned and fished steadily for 17 or 18 years. The 9′ 9wt I purchased three years ago for a trip to Alaska and it has been great. I use the Salmon/Steelhead for just that and some saltwater use as well. I have not seen these rods in the catalogs this year. If you can find them, they are a great buy and a great rod. Dave

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Check out:         www.lamiglas.com -tgades

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Check out their web site: www.lamiglas.com I’ve got quite a few of their rods, and I’m happy with them.  EXCELLENT customer service as well.      -tgades

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I own three Lamiglass rods.. Two flyrods and a Salmon/steelhead casting rod. The 8.5 ‘ 6/7 wt I have owned and fished steadily for 17 or 18 years. The 9′ 9wt I purchased three years ago for a trip to Alaska and it has been great. I use the Salmon/Steelhead for just that and some saltwater use as well. I have not seen these rods in the catalogs this year. If you can find them, they are a great buy and a great rod. Dave

Didn’t they have a fire at their plant a few years back?  I had the impression that they either went out of business or did so temporarily. Their rods enjoy a certain cachet among steelheaders.  They have slower actions than many of the high modulus jobs and many people prefer that. To be fair, they tend to be a bit heavier than the competition. — "…but no religious Test shall ever be required as a Qualification to any Office or public Trust under the United States." Article VI, US Constitution

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   Newsgroups: rec.outdoors.fishing.fly    Organization: Prehensile University    Their rods enjoy a certain cachet among steelheaders.  They have slower    actions than many of the high modulus jobs and many people prefer that.    To be fair, they tend to be a bit heavier than the competition. Anyone who claims that Lamiglas rods have slow actions have not cast them. Besides, which line of lamiglas blanks are you referring to G-1000, Certified-Pro, LHS, IM-700? If the higher-end lamiglas blanks have a fault, it is that they are TOO FAST, not too slow. -tgades

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I know nothing of their fly rod blanks, however when I build a custome surf rod for myself or a friend I will use no other blank. They can not be touched !! — "The true Angler is content to fish alone" Brian Di Carlo – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Does anyone in the news group have any experience with lamiglas rods? I was curious as to whether they are comparable to any of the more well known brands. Any information would be greatly appreciated. Dry Fly

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WHOA CHARLIE!  Are indicating here that you think "lamiglass" must mean that their fly rods are glass-fiber rods? You say it is a ‘cult’ rod?  Where did you ever come up with such a conclusion?  I would certainly call an Orvis Rod a cult rod… Just thought it should be said that Lamiglass Graphite Fly Rods are top of the line and anyone thinking of buying one couldn’t do better anywhere else in the world.

George, I’m sure you don’t hear it very much in this ng, but, you’re absolutely right! (Once again) my brevity has gotten me into trouble. I will write 1000 times, Lamiglas makes an outstanding graphite rod, one of the best, in as fast an action as anyone would want. I was speaking only of the lamiglas glass rods, which do have a strong following, and given the overwhelming popularity of graphite rods, it could be described as a "cult following".  (agree with you about the orvis comment, but the basis of THAT following is a bit more puzzling!). 8^) That said, the glass blanks (and rods?) are still available, and as far as I know, still in production.  I’m planning on building one this year. A nice 4 or 5 wt for the high country.  Can’t wait. Very glad you spoke up.   Guess I hit the Send button a little early on that one! …I haven’t heard anything about Eric Lieser for a long while.  Anyone know what he’s doing lately? Hell of a song writer too.

Can’t help you with that, but I’ll be looking for the CD… CQ

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Does anyone in the news group have any experience with lamiglas rods? I was curious as to whether they are comparable to any of the more well known brands. Any information would be greatly appreciated. Dry Fly

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Does anyone in the news group have any experience with lamiglas rods? I was curious as to whether they are comparable to any of the more well known brands. Any information would be greatly appreciated.

They are great rods, but more of a cult favorite.   I’m speaking of the glass rods here.  They don’t really compare well to the other more popular brands, as they have a slower action, for a slower, more relaxed, style of fishing; sort of a poor-man’s bamboo. CQ

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Does anyone in the news group have any experience with lamiglas rods? I was curious as to whether they are comparable to any of the more well known brands. Any information would be greatly appreciated. Dry Fly

Sweet stuff mate.  many of the "better" brands use Lamiglass blanks.

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Question:

Hello! I’m about ready to buy a mess of flyfishing stuff on a budget. The rod, reel and line are my first consideration.  After several FF trips using an old fiberglass rod, and borrowing a Cabela’s Sweetwater outfit (8′ 6"  6wt  2pc  96% graphite), I believe the combo I want is a 8 foot, 4 piece, 4-5 weight with matching reel and line.  I want it small enough to perform well in small mountain streams (like in Shenandoah NP) as well as be satisfactory in as many other situations as possible.  4 piece cause I want to hike with it, moderate action.  So far my choices are:         From Cabelas ‘96 FF catalog:            1  Fish Eagle Traditional Combo   $153               8′ 4wt  4pc  moderate action                     walnut seats, silv plated hardware, stainless steel                   double foot snake guides (chrome finish).  Al oxide               stripper guide w ceramic insert               include cahill reel + cortland 333 line + backing            2  Willow Creek Pack Rod Combo    $90 !               8′ 4-5wt  4 pc  96% graph                 cahill reel + WF line + backing         3  St Croix 8′ 4-5wt mod action  Imperial travel Rod 4 pc            $135 rod only  SC33 Graphite (33m mod)            Any comments on these?  I’m kind of leaning toward the Fish Eagle Traditional right now.  I’m hoping to keep the whole deal around $100-200.  Any other suggestions?  How about Sage or Orvis low end stuff? T & T ? Next is the other essentials:  stockingfoots, boots, vest, glasses. I’d love for the stockingfoots and boots to be as packable as possible.   I’m pretty sure that the Cabelas 3mm neoprene stockingfoots and their Three Forks wading Boot are a decent choice.  How about their 2mm  SuperLite neoprene stockingfoots?  They say they are ideal for backpacking.  Are they durable and warm enough for three season use?  I heard that the actual foot area of the waders are a little vulnerable (3mm).  3mm = $60, 2mm = $70, Three Forks = $45. Cabelas entry level Willow Creek Vest sounds reasonable for $40.  I don’t want too many pockets to mess with, just something simple comfortable and durable.  It says it has a rear pouch, but is it zippered?   Cabelas Pro Angler Sunglasses for $15?  Decent? Any suggestions and comments are appreciated! Pls email replies. C’mooooooooon spring. Thanks, Jim — The above opinions are factual.

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Hello! I’m about ready to buy a mess of flyfishing stuff on a budget. The rod, reel and line are my first consideration.  After several FF trips using an old fiberglass rod, and borrowing a Cabela’s

etc. Personally, I would stick to one of the lower Orvis or LL Bean packages. You can save some money and get good merchandise. Other good choices other than the ones you mentioned are Scott and Lamiglas. I don’t think Lamiglas gets enough "press" as they make some good rods.  You might be best off (in my humble opinion) in spending more for the rod now, and get a cheap reel. Unless you are battling Salmon or Bonefish, the reel is only a place to store the line. You could always use it for an extra when you get a better reel. I am still using the old Orvis madison reel I bought 15 years ago, but it mounts on one of my Winston rods. I’ve never really had the desire to replace it. But then again, I am still driving the new car I bought in 1984 too!

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I’ve been very satisfied with my 5 weight Loomis combined with an inexpensive but well crafted scientific anglers reel.  The two totaled together around $300.  LL Bean makes a pretty good rod.  But stay away

Please tell us more about your opinion of Bean’s reels.  Have you had problems with them?

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At one time they sold some reals made by STH in Argentina…as did Orvis…and from what I saw they were not very good reels

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Question:

My family will be visiting the Tacoma/Olympia area at the beginning of August, and I would like fish streams within a couple of hours drive. Does anyone have some recommendations? thx….. Bob

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My family will be visiting the Tacoma/Olympia area at the beginning of August, and I would like fish streams within a couple of hours drive. Does anyone have some recommendations?

I’d hit the road north and run up along the east-side of the Olympic Pennisula to Lilliwaup, and visit the Hama Hama River for some sea-run cutt’s… <<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<< < Digital Equipment Corp.    Alpha Server Engineering  < <           "Read this and nobody gets hurt"           < <<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<

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Youll have so much fishing within two hours you wont know what to do:  to the west – all the famous Olympic Peninsula streams for steelhead; plus the Elwha for trout (near Port angeles); to the south, youll have the cowlitz, Kalama and other famous steelhead and salmon rivers (plus some trout); to the north (if you want to drive through seattle) youll have the Green, Skykomish and Stilly; to the east, you have mtn lakes, marginal trout streams and youre abnout 2 hours from the Yakima River, the states best fly fishing river….  Not to mention the Puget Sound salt water where people fly fish quite a bit, including from shore for salmon, cutts and snags. Have fun, Andy Taylor Pocatello, Idaho

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Question:

Planning trip to Clark’s Fork of the Yellowstone this summer and would like to read some about the area before the trip.  Could anyone suggest some good reading material on the subject?  I’ve heard of a book called "The Most Complete Guide to Wyoming Fisheries"  has anyone read this book?  Is it good?  Where can I get a copy?

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Planning trip to Clark’s Fork of the Yellowstone this summer and would like to read some about the area before the trip.  

I’ve seen quite a flurry of posts regarding the Clark’s Fork of the Yellowstone recently. I’m surprised. The Clark’s Fork is an incredibly beautifull valley, and the elk hunting there is as good as it gets. The fishing is good too, for large numbers of small trout. The growing season is too short, the water too fast and too cold to support any big ones.    The lower end of the river runs thru is an impenetrable canyon, with 1000′ verticle rock walls, accessible only to the most lunatic kayakers who literally use petons and caribeeners to portage several impossible falls. There are some good Rainbows in several canyon pools. The problem is getting there. Higher up, from Crandal creek upstream to Cooke City, there are few fish over 12" long…although lots of them that small and smaller. —

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