Question:

 I find a 6 weight rod is a supurb compromise in that it is not worth a damn for either. You go Big Dale. Best gawdang advise posted here in months. A 6wt, imo, is the  ultimate all-around weight rod for flyfishing. From nc small-stream trout, to cedar key redfish, a 6wt is the best all- around weight rod any flyfisher can have in his arsenal.

Bullshit, a six weight is the most useless weight to own for any fly fisherman who owns more than one rod. Get a 4/5 and then a 7. Too damn big for MOST trout and pan fishing and too damn small for MOST sw and fw application. There’s a reason I only own one six weight <g — Wayne Knight Expert in creating tailing loops and windknots Otherwise Fishless in Kansas Before you buy.

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if the drag on your reel is of sufficient quality, and if your tippet is sufficiently strong, and if you have sufficient experience, then landing a 100lb tarpon on a 3wt should be no different than doing the same thing on a 9wt, *assuming you can deliver the fly to the fish*.  

You could probably kill a tarpon with a 3wt, but I doubt you could lift it to the boat with a 3wt. Bigger fly rods have purpose other than delivering bigger files. FWIW — Charlie…

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Bigger fly rods have purpose other than delivering bigger files. FWIW

Sounds like you may already own that ultimate rod RW was talking about. Does it deliver Chinese food and pizza as well? <g –Steve

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- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text –  I find a 6 weight rod is a supurb compromise in that it is not worth a damn for either. You go Big Dale. Best gawdang advise posted here in months. A 6wt, imo, is the  ultimate all-around weight rod for flyfishing. From nc small-stream trout, to cedar key redfish, a 6wt is the best all- around weight rod any flyfisher can have in his arsenal. Bullshit, a six weight is the most useless weight to own for any fly fisherman who owns more than one rod. Get a 4/5 and then a 7. Too damn big for MOST trout and pan fishing and too damn small for MOST sw and fw application. There’s a reason I only own one six weight <g — Wayne Knight Expert in creating tailing loops and windknots Otherwise Fishless in Kansas

ehh? please allow me shuffle my feet and to clarify…. *if* I only had one rod available to me, *and* i wanted to fish many different situations, a 9′ 6wt would be my choice, lines down. that is the advise i received when i first started flyfishing down in FL and it, imo, was very good advise. it allowed me to fish in many different waters with very little monetary outlay. now that i own many different rods for different fishing situations, the 6wt is rarely used any more. however, it will be dusted-off very soon for chasin’ chromers. walt fellow expert in creating tailing loops and windknots otherwise up-to-my-knees-in-trout in God’s Country <g

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8<…. if the drag on your reel is of sufficient quality, and if your tippet is sufficiently strong, and if you have sufficient experience, then landing a 100lb tarpon on a 3wt should be no different than doing the same thing on a 9wt, *assuming you can deliver the fly to the fish*.  let me repeat that:  *assuming you can deliver the fly to the fish*.  of course, in the real world, that is a rare assumption. wayno

wayno, with all due respect, fighting a 100 pound tarpon "properly" would destroy a 3wt rod. i say "properly" in the context of releasing the fish unharmed in a timely manner so that the fish could live to return to his environment, "unchanged", or more aptly stated, "wild." the length of time it would take to land a 100 pound tarpon on a 3wt, imo, would kill the fish either by exhaustion or by shark attack. that said, if you had said "hook" vs "landed" i could have agreed with you….it would be possible to deliver a thinly-dressed streamer using a 3wt to a cruising tarpon. why anyone would choose to do so is dahlwhinnian…. to clarify, hitch a ride with zimbo tomorrow am and i’ll put you on a mountain-version "tarpon" with your 3wt. <g –kamloopy wataugan waldo — Ezflyfish.com: http://www.ezflyfish.com Blue Ridge Book Gallery: http://users.boone.net/wgw/brbg.html

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Bullshit, a six weight is the most useless weight to own for any fly fisherman who owns more than one rod. Get a 4/5 and then a 7. Too damn big for MOST trout and pan fishing and too damn small for MOST sw and fw application. There’s a reason I only own one six weight <g — Wayne Knight

and I have four (counting the mix & match East Branch) and it’s my most frequently used weight.  - diffferent folks, different strokes. (8′, 8′ 6", 9′ 6", & 10′6") Peter Visit The Streamer Page at http://members.home.net/pcharles/streamers/index.html

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I’m looking to building a fly rod this winter just for yucks.  I’ve done several casting rods in the past, but this would be a first. Can anybody recommend a good blank to use – expense isn’t really a factor, so any recommendation would be appreciated. Thanks.

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I’m looking to building a fly rod this winter just for yucks. … Can anybody recommend a good blank to use …

You’ll have to tell us more about yucks. — Ken Fortenberry

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I’m looking to building a fly rod this winter just for yucks. … Can anybody recommend a good blank to use … You’ll have to tell us more about yucks.

He is my evil twin.      :)

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I’m looking to building a fly rod this winter just for yucks. … Can anybody recommend a good blank to use … You’ll have to tell us more about yucks. He is my evil twin.      :)

Ah, so you want to build a rod capable of tossing a bottle of scotch 60 feet and landing a 185 lb twin. Definitely a 12wt. — Ken Fortenberry

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He is my evil twin.

Oh shit, not another one of those!   <g For a cheap intro to rod building, I’d still stay away from anything too crummy.   After all, when you’re done, you do want to be proud of it and fish with it.   My first few rods were built on higher end St. Croix blanks. Well below $100 each.   I also just started on one that’s a discontinued Loomis blank (IM6) I bought off Ebay for about 40 bucks.   There are also some dealers out there who have a supply of discontinued blanks.   D&E Rods (www.danderods.com) is one.   I have a nice 3 wt. Loomis IMX blank from them awaiting my attention (don’t remember that price, but it was cheap enough that I bought a blank I don’t need.) Either way you go, I recommend a decent blank.   The hardware cost and time invested are too much to put it into a practice stick.   Even if you screw it up cosmetically, it will still fish well (I have one or two that fit that category.) Joe F.

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The range and type of fly-rod blanks is very extensive. You will need to give us more information about what you wish to fish for, and under what circumstances, before we could be of any real assistance. TL MC — "Where fishing is concerned, most anglers are basically manic excessives" http://www.mikeconnor.de – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I’m looking to building a fly rod this winter just for yucks.  I’ve done several casting rods in the past, but this would be a first. Can anybody recommend a good blank to use – expense isn’t really a factor, so any recommendation would be appreciated. Thanks.

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If anyone out there disagrees with me then I’ve got an only-once-used 6wt 3-piece Diamondback rod and matching Hardy reel I’ll sell at a very fair price –Steve

See below.  I’ve already got a 3 pce Diamondback 6 wt. with a Hardy reel but who knows, I might need a spare some day. $10.00 ?  <g Peter

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Good for you. There are whores, and there are whores.  The main thing is to make sure you live happy, and if possible die in the same condition. TL MC — "Where fishing is concerned, most anglers are basically manic excessives" http://www.mikeconnor.de Yes, I’m a whore. My first fly rod, a Martin 6wt with matching martin 6 wt

<SNIP

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You go Big Dale. Best gawdang advise posted here in months. A 6wt, imo, is the ultimate all-around weight rod for flyfishing. From nc small-stream trout, to cedar key redfish, a 6wt is the best all-around weight rod any flyfisher can have in his arsenal. Huh??? What happened to the *real* Walt Winter?? Not only would the real Waldo never recommend owning only one rod, but the real Waldo wouldn’t get caught dead on an NC stream *or* cedar key with a 6-weight rod.

        i don’t know what the hell this has to do with anything, or whether it makes any difference to anyone who might read this sort of thing (what *are* we doing discussing fly rods on roff, anyway?), but in my damn near fifty years of fishing with a fly rod, i have never owned a 6 weight rod.  in fact, i have never cast a heavier line than a 5 for trout, even when we girded our loins for the fabled big water and high winds of montana.  i think the issue is almost completely controlled by the question of what the size and weight of the fly might be.  if the drag on your reel is of sufficient quality, and if your tippet is sufficiently strong, and if you have sufficient experience, then landing a 100lb tarpon on a 3wt should be no different than doing the same thing on a 9wt, *assuming you can deliver the fly to the fish*.  let me repeat that:  *assuming you can deliver the fly to the fish*.  of course, in the real world, that is a rare assumption. wayno

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You go Big Dale. Best gawdang advise posted here in months. A 6wt, imo, is the ultimate all-around weight rod for flyfishing. From nc small-stream trout, to cedar key redfish, a 6wt is the best all-around weight rod any flyfisher can have in his arsenal.

Huh??? What happened to the *real* Walt Winter?? Not only would the real Waldo never recommend owning only one rod, but the real Waldo wouldn’t get caught dead on an NC stream *or* cedar key with a 6-weight rod. I say buy two rods. A 7′6" 3wt for trout and (if you must) a 9′ 7wt for bass. If cost is an issue then buy two inexpensive rods. If anyone out there disagrees with me then I’ve got an only-once-used 6wt 3-piece Diamondback rod and matching Hardy reel I’ll sell at a very fair price –Steve

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- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – You go Big Dale. Best gawdang advise posted here in months. A 6wt, imo, is the ultimate all-around weight rod for flyfishing. From nc small-stream trout, to cedar key redfish, a 6wt is the best all-around weight rod any flyfisher can have in his arsenal. Huh??? What happened to the *real* Walt Winter?? Not only would the real Waldo never recommend owning only one rod, but the real Waldo wouldn’t get caught dead on an NC stream *or* cedar key with a 6-weight rod. I say buy two rods. A 7′6" 3wt for trout and (if you must) a 9′ 7wt for bass. If cost is an issue then buy two inexpensive rods. If anyone out there disagrees with me then I’ve got an only-once-used 6wt 3-piece Diamondback rod and matching Hardy reel I’ll sell at a very fair price –Steve

Yes, I’m a whore. My first fly rod, a Martin 6wt with matching martin 6 wt reel, was last used catching a steelie here in NC. It was first used catching bass on watermelon pond and it has also been used catching more species than any other rod in my inventory. Reminiscing, it has caught largemouth bass, smallmouth bass, suwanee bass, sunshine bass, peacock bass, many varieties of panfish, specs, redfish, black drum, snook, trout, stripers, weakfish, bonefish, gar, pickerel, barracuda, shad, tarpon, cobia (damn near lost it on that bad boy), mackeral, crevalles, ladyfish, and of course, that gorgeous chromer last winter in the company of that fine southern gentleman, Tom Brown. The butt of this rod  is still used daily as I use it as a reel "holder" when I manually load reels for sale. This rod is as much a part of me as my soul, as a matter of fact, blasphemously, one could say it is part and parcel of my soul. but i digress. my affliction spread like the plague. i acquired numerous rods and reels to fit certain needs, some psychological. although i suck at it, i even took up tying flies. i still was far from being satiated….. so, i opened a "flyshop". i now have more gawdang gear than any sane person should be allowed to possess. hundreds of reels and of rods, seemingly, enough line, leader & tippet to circumvent the earth. yet, be still, the fire burns hotter. my fervant desire now, as all invoices are paid, is to retire with all of this cool stuff. mine, all mine <g i, waldo, am a whore. ww — Ezflyfish.com: http://www.ezflyfish.com Blue Ridge Book Gallery: http://users.boone.net/wgw/brbg.html

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 I find a 6 weight rod is a supurb compromise in that it is not worth a damn for either.

You go Big Dale. Best gawdang advise posted here in months. A 6wt, imo, is the ultimate all-around weight rod for flyfishing. From nc small-stream trout, to cedar key redfish, a 6wt is the best all-around weight rod any flyfisher can have in his arsenal. –walt Ezflyfish.com: http://www.ezflyfish.com Blue Ridge Book Gallery: http://users.boone.net/wgw/brbg.html

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[snip] All good advice and I’ll add just one little bit more.  You can get away with a 7 or 8 wt. for small fish if you can find a short, slow action version and build it with a standard trout handle.  I lucked into an old 8′ 6" Orvis Green Mountain with a slow – moderate action and a small handle (no fighting butt.)  I’d have no difficulty using it for anything.  I’ve caught smallies under a pound that put a decent bend in it yet it’ll toss a 2/0 streamer about 80′.  I’ve tried a Fenwick HMGF 8′6" 7 wt. that also impressed me as a good all-round rod. Peter Visit The Streamer Page at http://members.home.net/pcharles/streamers/index.html

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Ken wrote snip:Like I said, it’s a tough call, maybe some of the other warmwater guys in the group can recommend one and only one blank for both bluegill & bass but I’m afraid you have me stumped.

I think Ken is correct. I love my little 3 weight rods for bluegill and I take my fair share of bass on them, but they are all small bass. I don’t think I have landed a bass of over 3 pounds on one of them. There is no way in hell I can use a 3 weight to cast the flies that work best for large bass with a rod that small. I most often use  a 7 to 10 weight rod when I am fishing for sizable bass.  I find a 6 weight rod is a supurb compromise in that it is not worth a damn for either. Big Dale

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RE choose a rod blank for "pan fish to bass?" Sandy’s treatise on blank choosing with an angle: A 6-weight rod is generally considered the most versatile trout rod. With a 6-weight you can cast anything from an itty-bitty mayfly on a 7x tippet to a #2 woolly bugger on 0x tippet. But if you want to cast pike flies, bass worms or extra-bushy bass poppers, you will probably want a 7 or 8 weight rod. I like 9′ rods. But some people think they have more control over shorter (8′) rods. Once you have the size down, you still have to zero in on cost and action. Some guys (actually) like soft, slow action rods, like many built by Orvis, Winston or Powell. Slow action rods are easier to cast, more graceful to use. But they don’t handle heavy flies, wind or distance casting very well. Orvis, Winston and Powell make some moderately fast rods too. The fastest, most powerful casting canons I know of are made by Sage and Loomis. Someone told me Scott makes a powerful rod, but I never tried one. Cost? The most expensive rods are the best. But how much better are they? Not a whole lot, I don’t think. I have some fly rods that cost almost $600 bucks. They’re damn good rods. But I have a few (Sage, Loomis and Cabelas) that (for finished rods) cost $180 to $220. And they’re damned good rods too. Who makes Cabelas blanks anyway? It’s Loomis isn’t it? There are some really cheap graphite fly rods showing up now, like those made by Eagle Claw. Has anybody tried those? If you like soft, slow action rods, I can’t see any reason to buy an expensive one. What you get–with more money–is casting power. — /* Sandy Pittendrigh   –O0  * http://cns.montana.edu/~sandy/  */

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That’s a tough prescription to fill, Tom. I like a 3wt for bluegill and a 7wt for bass. Logically then a 5wt would be your blank of choice but I don’t think you’d be happy with it in either situation. Not that it wouldn’t work, I used an old 8′ Garcia Conolon 7/8wt for years as my one and only flyrod for bass & bluegill in the days before I knew any better and I caught a lot of fish and had great time with it. The other consideration besides rod weight is action. I like a slow action for most situations, my canoe bluegill rod is a 9′ Winston 3wt, but for tossin’ big, wind eatin’ bass bugs a faster action works better for me, something along the lines of the discontinued Sage RPL series. Like I said, it’s a tough call, maybe some of the other warmwater guys in the group can recommend one and only one blank for both bluegill & bass but I’m afraid you have me stumped. — Ken Fortenberry

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Yucks,  slang, corruption of middle English, German Jux. =For fun TL MC — "Where fishing is concerned, most anglers are basically manic excessives" http://www.mikeconnor.de – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – You’ll have to tell us more about yucks. — Ken Fortenberry

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The range and type of fly-rod blanks is very extensive. You will need to give us more information about what you wish to fish for, and under what circumstances, before we could be of any real assistance.

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In which case, I at least, am unable to help much. I have never fished for such species. Someone else will doubtless be able to help you with regard to weight length etc. TL MC — "Where fishing is concerned, most anglers are basically manic excessives" http://www.mikeconnor.de – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – The range and type of fly-rod blanks is very extensive. You will need to give us more information about what you wish to fish for, and under what circumstances, before we could be of any real assistance.

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Question:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -Rod builders out there . . . The subject company (a small business I suspect) offers graphite rod building kits for about $70.  No manufacturer mentioned for the blanks.  I am considering this as a good way to build a first rod and learn without spending big bucks on a good blank.  The rod would then be used for teaching my 9 year old to cast and if I learn how to build a rod and feel confident, I’ll do one on a nice blank.  Anyway: Have any of you folks built a rod from this guy and can you tell me if it was reasonable quality.  I don’t want to pay $70 and find out it is junk. The web site is:  http://www.jbrodco.com/ Let me know, Jim

Jim You could spend more for less at wally world, if you want or expect a custom sage, forget it.  What do you want for 70 bucks..?                 Why don’t you ask him what kind of hardware is included..? You maybe should ask him to put it together for you too.

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As I indicated – I am looking for a good starter set of components I can use to learn on, before building a Sage or similar blank.  I have no issue with spending a few bucks on good components or a completed rod (as all my rods are today) I want to try rod-building. I have asked him about the stuff, but I was looking for other opinions from those who may have actually bought a kit and used them. Jim * Sent from RemarQ http://www.remarq.com The Internet’s Discussion Network * The fastest and easiest way to search and participate in Usenet – Free!

Response:

Hi Jim, As stated by another responding to you, ask the seller what components come with the kit.  Things to look for are what the blank is made from, who makes it, is it fast or slow action, what is the warranty on the blank, does he have any references of those who have already built from the kit.  Next I would get the name of the manufacturer of the various components, I.E., reel seat, guides (ask how many stripping guides), cork handle, thread, type of finishing materials included and any other stuff you can think of.  I would than look on the net to compare prices or get a few catalogs from places like Angler’s Workshop, Head & Tails, Cabelas, Dale Clemens and whomever else you can think of who sells blanks and rod building gear.  There are rod building sights on the net in addition to magazines devoted to the subject. You might want to check out Fly Rod & Reel and Fly Fishing and Tying Journal.  I have seen classified ads in these magazines for blanks and kits. I have found blanks in the past that are absolutely incredible.  Some are only $3-4 per foot, and are so good that I can not, for the life of me, explain how the big guys like Sage, Loomis, T&T and others get so much for their blanks/rods. Good luck with your project.  No matter what you eventually purchase, you will enjoy the process with your son and it will help you make informed decisions for future projects. Pete

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Rod builders out there . . . The subject company (a small business I suspect) offers graphite rod building kits for about $70.  No manufacturer mentioned for the blanks.  I am considering this as a good way to build a first rod and learn without spending big bucks on a good blank.  The rod would then be used for teaching my 9 year old to cast and if I learn how to build a rod and feel confident, I’ll do one on a nice blank.  Anyway: Have any of you folks built a rod from this guy and can you tell me if it was reasonable quality.  I don’t want to pay $70 and find out it is junk. The web site is:  http://www.jbrodco.com/ Let me know, Jim * Sent from RemarQ http://www.remarq.com The Internet’s Discussion Network * The fastest and easiest way to search and participate in Usenet – Free!

Response:

Rod builders out there . . . The subject company (a small business I suspect) offers graphite rod building kits for about $70.  No manufacturer mentioned for the blanks.  I am considering this as a good way to build a first rod and learn without spending big bucks on a good blank.  The rod would then be used for teaching my 9 year old to cast and if I learn how to build a rod and feel confident, I’ll do one on a nice blank.  Anyway: Have any of you folks built a rod from this guy and can you tell me if it was reasonable quality.  I don’t want to pay $70 and find out it is junk. The web site is:  http://www.jbrodco.com/ Let me know, Jim * Sent from RemarQ http://www.remarq.com The Internet’s Discussion Network * The fastest and easiest way to search and participate in Usenet – Free!

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Question:

Does any one know it? Thanks, Nick Pujic

Response:

Does any one know it?

Hi Nick, He has at least three that I know of.  I usually use the following to reach him:                                   Good Fishing,                                           Dan Dan Gracia Orvis West Coast Fly Fishing Schools Mt. Shasta Fly Fishing Schools http://www.thegrid.net/flyfish

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Question:

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Question:

****** Hello I am a high school student that is thinking about a physics prodject on the physics of fly fishing.  This can include casting and the effects of drag and water currents.  Are there any book or articles on the subject?  Any help would be appriciated.  Oh, do certain flies work better on small North Eastern streams during the fall. ****** In my opinion, you probably do not have the mathematical background to do the  projects you are suggesting.  Let me make a suggestion that would be easier to  do and would produce useful results.  Test various leader materials. Most leader testing is done with static testing.  You pull until the leader  breaks.  The breaking force is measured and that is it.  Very little  information is available on how much energy it takes to break the leader.  This can be measured by droping weights to shock the leader.  The effects of  knots has been tested, but I have no idea on how reproducible that is.  The  effect of mosture on the strength of leader is probable not well known.  How  does abrasion affect the strength?  All these are easier projects to carry out  and of interest to fishermen.  Your results may even find a publisher in a  magazine. William Buchman

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Hello I am a high school student that is thinking about a physics prodject on the physics of fly fishing.  This can include casting and the effects of drag and water currents.  Are there any book or articles on the subject?  Any help would be appriciated.  Oh, do certain flies work better on small North Eastern streams during the fall. Thanks, Ian

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Question:

Hello, it is much easier to take the non-ac-bus from Hat Yai to Satun (96 km to the Southwest) in the morning at 7.10 am or 9.40 am for about 30 Baht.

by me at lunch.  er, sorry, you might make it for dinner.   – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – From Satun take the taxi for about 20 Baht to the harbour plus the Express Ferry at 1 pm or 4 pm for 150 Baht in 75 Minutes. Immigration formalities are at the pier. Have fun. Ciao Maybe not the most direct route, but jump the train down to Butterworth, and catch a ferry from Penang up to Langkwai. Steve Hello: Anybody with info on this please post/email.  Will also appreciate info on inexpensive accomodation at these two places.  I plan on being there mid-December.  I will fly from the US to BKK and then domestic to Hat Yai. Langkwai is across the border. Thanks in advance. Satya

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Hello, it is much easier to take the non-ac-bus from Hat Yai to Satun (96 km to the Southwest) in the morning at 7.10 am or 9.40 am for about 30 Baht. by me at lunch.  er, sorry, you might make it for dinner.

So what do you do once you exit your cool A/C bus? Turn on your portable, battery-powered air-conditioner, or rent a luxury limousine to drive you around? Most of the Thais survive the non-AC buses. You will too… – Fabian

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There was once a ferry, during the dry season, from Satun town to Langkawi. No need to go to Penang first. Only way to know if the ferry will operate this December is to simply go to Satun town and ask about it. There are many local travelers, so my guess is yes, it will operate. For a ride from Hat Yai to Satun town, ask any "tuk tuk" driver in Had Yai. He will know not only about the public buses, but also about the small and private mini-vans which ferry local Thai office workers between Had Yai and Satun town during the rush hours each day. Foreigners are welcome on this mini-vans. Note that this is an "international" ferry crossing. Passports will be checked at a small island about halfway between Satun and Langkawi, and the small ship will be inspected. The islands in the area are fantastic. Small boats to the islands on the Thai side of the border leave mostly from a small fishing village called Pak Bara. — George Moore http://www.slip.net/~georgem – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Maybe not the most direct route, but jump the train down to Butterworth, and catch a ferry from Penang up to Langkwai. Steve Hello: Anybody with info on this please post/email.  Will also appreciate info on inexpensive accomodation at these two places.  I plan on being there mid-December.  I will fly from the US to BKK and then domestic to Hat Yai. Langkwai is across the border. Thanks in advance. Satya

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Maybe not the most direct route, but jump the train down to Butterworth, and catch a ferry from Penang up to Langkwai. Steve – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Hello: Anybody with info on this please post/email.  Will also appreciate info on inexpensive accomodation at these two places.  I plan on being there mid-December.  I will fly from the US to BKK and then domestic to Hat Yai. Langkwai is across the border. Thanks in advance. Satya

Response:

Hello, it is much easier to take the non-ac-bus from Hat Yai to Satun (96 km to the Southwest) in the morning at 7.10 am or 9.40 am for about 30 Baht. From Satun take the taxi for about 20 Baht to the harbour plus the Express Ferry at 1 pm or 4 pm for 150 Baht in 75 Minutes. Immigration formalities are at the pier. Have fun. Ciao – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Maybe not the most direct route, but jump the train down to Butterworth, and catch a ferry from Penang up to Langkwai. Steve Hello: Anybody with info on this please post/email.  Will also appreciate info on inexpensive accomodation at these two places.  I plan on being there mid-December.  I will fly from the US to BKK and then domestic to Hat Yai. Langkwai is across the border. Thanks in advance. Satya

Response:

Hello: Anybody with info on this please post/email.  Will also appreciate info on inexpensive accomodation at these two places.  I plan on being there mid-December.  I will fly from the US to BKK and then domestic to Hat Yai. Langkwai is across the border. Thanks in advance. Satya

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Question:

My sister in law is getting married. She lives in France. I’ve got to go. Cause that’s the only way they’re going to get me there! Ari Ari Bert                                        Gaelle Bert +27 (0) 83 232 9903                             +27 (0) 83 236 5308 Flyfishing Corner +27 (0) 11 447 7230                             Shop 94, Admirals Court +27 (0) 11 882 8537 (fax)                       Cnr Craddock & Tyrwhitt www.troutfishing.co.za                                Street, Rosebank P.O.Box 79067 Senderwood 2145 South Africa

Response:

There is plenty of flyfishing in France Ari. It is quite complicated getting a licence etc.   A web search will turn up plenty of info. TL MC – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – My sister in law is getting married. She lives in France. I’ve got to go. Cause that’s the only way they’re going to get me there! Ari

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My sister in law is getting married. She lives in France.

great fishing, great fishermen. Whereabouts in France~? Tony — Tony Knox remove the bit about not spamming

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The French have a long tradition in flyfishing. The possibilities for (sea)trout depend largely on the region you’re going to, and when in case of seatrout. Be prepared for _very_, _very_ (and I’m holding back here), _very_ spooky trout. The mentioned long tradition combined with the fine French cuisine have made the bigger trout (i.e. edible size) quite hard to find. Even if you find them it will be hard to get withing casting range. The best chances are late in the evening or very early in the morning, there is no sense at all in fishing during daytime. Getting a license (permis de peche) is not so hard, although it must sound strange for Americans who are used to buy a license for an entire state. Lucky basterds. France is devided in regions, and each region sells license for their waters. Very often regions cooperate by allowing acces on certain waters for license holders for other regions, but check this carefully. Furthermore, the waters are divided in two categories, 1st and (duh) 2nd. From the top of my head 1st category (premier categorie in French) is potential(!) trout water, 2nd category anything else, like big rivers, lakes etcetera. When you buy a license, you’ll need the ‘trout stamp’ which allows you to fish the 1st category waters. Every fishing shop sells them, and if you can’t find any ask in a local ‘Tabac’. Since the French are just as avid smokers as they are fishermen they’ll most certainly be able to tell you where to buy one, or even sell you one right away. I’ve bought licenses in the most unexpected places. According to http://perso.libertysurf.fr/CANTON/ouverture/pech4.htm a holiday license (three weeks license, available from the 1st of June to 30th of Septembre) will set you back FF 150, which is about 25 USD. Outside that time slot you depend on the availability of day/week tickets, but you’ll have to figure that out with the local chaps. Don’t go out without one – you’ll have an expensive holiday if you get caught. Some tips: 1. Speaking French helps a lot. 2. Speaking French helps a lot. 3. ‘Reserve de peche’ signs in a river don’t mean reserved for fishermen. It means fish reserve – NO FISHING!! Certain areas of most rivers, mostly over a length of a hundred to a few hundred meters are kept void of fishermen in order to keep some fish in the river. You wonder where those big trout are? <g 4. Have a great time. France is a nice country outside the big cities. People are friendly, and there is some great food & wine and scenery to be enjoyed. Salut, Herman – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – My sister in law is getting married. She lives in France. I’ve got to go. Cause that’s the only way they’re going to get me there! Ari Ari Bert                                        Gaelle Bert +27 (0) 83 232 9903                             +27 (0) 83 236 5308 Flyfishing Corner +27 (0) 11 447 7230                             Shop 94, Admirals Court +27 (0) 11 882 8537 (fax)                       Cnr Craddock & Tyrwhitt www.troutfishing.co.za                          Street, Rosebank P.O.Box 79067 Senderwood 2145 South Africa

–         Cheers, Herman         Herman Nijland         Daytime webmaster         Lifetime flyfisher

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Hi Ari,   I live and fish in France and YES there is good flyfishing here.  When and where are you going? I live in the eastern part (near Geneva, Switzerland) and there are plenty of trout streams within two hours drive. However, the other regions also have good trout streams and lakes.  If you tell me where you are going I can help you to get some info. Cheers, Peter. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – My sister in law is getting married. She lives in France. I’ve got to go. Cause that’s the only way they’re going to get me there! Ari

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I will be in southern France (Bordeaux) in late September/early October. Does anyone have information on freshwater flyfishing in southern France or NOrthern Spain (Pyrenees mtns)? Thanks in advance. Alan Hanson

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I will be in southern France (Bordeaux) in late September/early October. Does anyone have information on freshwater flyfishing in southern France or NOrthern Spain (Pyrenees mtns)? Thanks in advance. Alan Hanson

Hello, I’m french even If I don’t know this area pretty well, there are very fine spot to fly fish trout in this area of france the number of the "departements" (it s french versions of states) are 64 "pyrenes atlantiques" 65 "hautes pyrennees" 66 "pyrennes orientales". You ‘ll find streams named the "nives" exemple: nive de baiguorri, etc plus they are moutain lakes stocked with browns, brooks, and even cristivomers. You may try to contact the "ministere du tourisme" in paris and ask for the "relais St Pierre" It’s a directory of french hotels everywhere in france who have special accomadation for fishermen. Hope this helps regards Gh P.s at the moment you are coming ( September/early October ) the fish will probably be closed for trouts, so be sure to check that first, if it’s not recontact me later my fishing partner is gone with the river directory of france ( a book with all the rivers listed and quoted regarding how they are stocked). —                          http://www.cortosys.fr                               Paris FRANCE                              01-46-38-06-93     "I have also seen children successfully surmounting the effects of     "an evil inheritance. That is due to purity being an inherent     "attribute of the soul."                                                      [Mahatma Gandhi]

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Question:

I planted creeping phlox 3 yrs. ago and for the first two yrs it did great its not looking that great anymore any suggestions on what to do? Should I fertilize it cut it back pull it out and replant I never realy touched what I have I just let it grow and its real thick but it looks like a lot of it is dying.

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I planted creeping phlox 3 yrs. ago and for the first two yrs it did great its not looking that great anymore any suggestions on what to do? Should I fertilize it cut it back pull it out and replant I never realy touched what I have I just let it grow and its real thick but it looks like a lot of it is dying.

I have only had mine one year, so take it with a grain of salt, but I READ that sometimes you have to trim off the dead looking parts, mulch it well in winter, not let it stay too wet, and occasssionally divide it.  Anything there sound useful? — Signed,    Kellie My Karma Ran Over My Dogma.  It was a catastrophe! Now my dogma’s dead and my karma’s out of alignment. Get in "Knee Deep"!     The Internet Pond Society      http://w3.one.net/~rzutt/newsletter.html

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Funny that you brought this up.  I too planted creeping phlox about 3-4 years ago.  I recieved a bounty of pink flowers and an evergreen spread.  It years that passes, at this time of year, large areas start dying out.  To date I have done nothing.  I have similar beds of phlox planted elsewhere and also soffer some die-out.  Just a perusal of my garden this morning made me want to cry.  Over half of the Phlox is turning brown and turning to dust (while a few weeks ago it was still green).   What should I do?  At present I shall continue to due nothing.  What is the problem … soil conditions, nematode infestation, blight … age of the culture.  I am tempted to go in and ‘thin’ it out. TTrue in RTP "Seek simplicity … then distrust it" – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -I planted creeping phlox 3 yrs. ago and for the first two yrs it did great its not looking that great anymore any suggestions on what to do? Should I fertilize it cut it back pull it out and replant I never realy touched what I have I just let it grow and its real thick but it looks like a lot of it is dying.

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Can’t say for sure what the phlox problem is, but I’d suspect it could be die out due to poor drainage. This year has been particularly bad. Phlox subulata like well-drained conditions- folks often grow them in rock gardens and on slopes. The foliage seems to do best when allowed to scramble over rocks.  

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  I’ve grown Phlox Sublata for years on the south facing slope of a well drained rock garden and have also suffered an unusually severe die-back this season (mostly last fall and early winter).  However, this isn’t the first time and it strongly depends on phlox color and/or foliage characteristics.  I have a blue that rarely shows any die-back but after blooming it has the least impressive foliage.  The new Candy Stripe regularly blooms then flops for me and I have a bright pink-red that has barely clung to life for years.   My plan is to rebuild the rock garden with lots of compost, sand, and manure additives to my basic clay.  That’s worked before and lasts for many years.  By all means pull out the deader sections after flowering. Often you’ll find the ends of mostly brown branches have rooted near the ends and will start new and healthy plants.  If you’ve got long mostly dead branches with green growth at the ends, you might be able to encourage rooting by pinninge one or more of these branches to the a nicely prepared bit of soil with a piece of bent wire and covering it with a little soil. — Lloyd Fortney http://www.phy.duke.edu/~fortney/ has links to my garden, flower, flyfishing, and travel JPEG images as well as teaching, research, and stuff like that

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I’ve read that Phlox should be divided every 3(?) years to keep it from dying out.  The parent plant should be removed and you can replant it. Otherwise it can choke itself.  I’m not sure if this applies to all varieties, but at least some you should also cut back in winter. J.

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Question:

Jay, One of the problems you might be having is that the mailing list stuff is all taken care of at TU National.  I’d try a call to national TU to see if they have you on the mailing list of the local chapter.  I don’t think many local chapters maintain there own lists.  They use labels they get from national.  I know that this problem has occurred with my local chapter.  Dave

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Such is the way of small groups. "That which belongs to all is cared for by none" I have been involved in a number of small groups (industry, alumni, etc.). Everyone wants more out of the group and have plenty of suggestions but nobody wants to do the work. In the rare insrtance that you do get a volunteer you’ve got a pretty high fallout rate.  I would assume different TU chapters have varying levels of activity depending on the amount of effort put in by the people. You’re looking at the most consistent method I’ve found for communicating with individuals about fly fishing.

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  I’m from Arizona and have had trouble on where to fish,when to fish,and what to use.  Sorry about the stupid questions, but I’m new to this sport.

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  I’m from Arizona and have had trouble on where to fish,when to fish,and what to use.  Sorry about the stupid questions, but I’m new to this sport.

Dear Filthyfly:         This is not a stupid.  The best advise I can give you is find a local flyfishing shop in your area.  Give them a call, get to know them.  If there isn’t a local speciality shop find the nearest sporting goods store.  They should have someone who can help you find areas to fish in and be able to give you information on what to use.  If neither of these is an option, there are listings in the back of the flyfishing magaqines for outfitters and shops. Many of these offer a toll free 800 service.  Give them a call and see if they can steer you in the right direction.           Good luck.  If you ever get up to Utah and are looking for places to go drop me a line and we’ll get you to some great places.   Tight Lines-Steve

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  I’m from Arizona and have had trouble on where to fish,when to fish,and what to use.  Sorry about the stupid questions, but I’m =

new to this sport. Dear Flyfisherman, I’d also look up a local chapter of Trout Unlimited in your area.  I am vice Pres of the Rapidan Chapter in Virginia and there is de= cades of experience in any chapter that will be absolutely free.  If you decide to join it will only cost $20/yr.   Besides teaching you how to fish they will also help you to understand how to protect and preserve what we have. Bill Althoff Flyfishing is Life; the rest is just details.

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  I’m from Arizona and have had trouble on where to fish,when to fish,and what to use.  Sorry about the stupid questions, but I’m = new to this sport. Dear Flyfisherman, I’d also look up a local chapter of Trout Unlimited in your area.  I am vice Pres of the Rapidan Chapter in Virginia and there is de= cades of experience in any chapter that will be absolutely free.  If you decide to join it will only cost $20/yr.   Besides teaching you how to fish they will also help you to understand how to protect and preserve what we have. Bill Althoff Flyfishing is Life; the rest is just details.

    Maybe I’m out of line here, but I am a little curious as to what I should expect from TU. I joined my local chapter about six months ago with high expectations of getting in touch with many fellow ffishers in my area.Looking forward to meetings and was even interested in attending weekend river restoration retreats.   Short of receiving a couple of old issues of the local newsletter which I had to call and request, and getting the usual package which contained the LOGO sticker (which BTW has since deteriated from my Suburban’s window), I have heard nothing. Now, I don’t expect any hand holding or certainly would not appreiciate a barage a calls, however, I would think that some sort of communication from my chapter regarding monthly meetings or such. Am I whinning to much???                                                             Jay

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– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text –    Maybe I’m out of line here, but I am a little curious as to what I should expect from TU. I joined my local chapter about six months ago with high expectations of getting in touch with many fellow ffishers in my area.Looking forward to meetings and was even interested in attending weekend river restoration retreats.  Short of receiving a couple of old issues of the local newsletter which I had to call and request, and getting the usual package which contained the LOGO sticker (which BTW has since deteriated from my Suburban’s window), I have heard nothing. Now, I don’t expect any hand holding or certainly would not appreiciate a barage a calls, however, I would think that some sort of communication from my chapter regarding monthly meetings or such. Am I whinning to much???

Jay, Various chapters of TU have differing amounts of activity, but TU’s forte has always been on a national basis.  That’s the biggest reason that Caltrout became such a force in California.  Most of the $ for TU from CA were leaving the state for projects elsewhere (national).  Caltrout spends all in CA and nowhere else (regional or local).  We need both types of organisations.  If your chapter is not active enough for your tastes, either get involved by finding projects (such as stream restoration) that need doing and start pushing from the bottom to get it started (I should warn you that you will probably be put in charge of such a project when you do) or contact the Federation of Fly Fishers and see if there is an affiliated club in the area.  Most of the fly fishing clubs in my area are affiliated with the FFF and often sponsor local projects.  Fly fishing clubs are great repositories of skill, knowledge, and bullshit.  They religiously have monthly meetings and feature skills, projects, fishouts, etc.  Give it a shot.                                                            Dan                                                        Dan Gracia                                                        Schools Coordinator                                                        Orvis West Coast Fly Fishing Schools

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Question:

Sorry, got always an error message from the server, thats why I tried to send it several times!                          Thomas

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: <snip  I had a 7′ 3 wgt. T&T Paralite that : was the most beautiful rod I ever owned…. But it was useless… You : couldn’t shoot a #14 humpy with it… I couldn’t disagree more.  The paralite (my favorite rod) has a different action than most are used to, but it is perfectly capable of handling any sized dry (for trout, that is) and quite a few wieghted nymphs.  I use it often, even in slightly windy conditions.  It won’t, however, deliver larger flies into a stiff breeze- but then again, that’s not really what it was designed for.  And you’re absolutely correct about the beauty of the rod… best regards, Hans — "The worst monotonous drone coming from a lectern or the most eye-splitting textbook written in turgid English is nothing in comparison to the psychological Sahara that starts right in your bedroom and spurns the horizon."         -Joseph Brodsky, from "In praise of Boredom"          delivered as a commencement address at Dartmouth College. Hans T.H. Beernink, Department of Biochemistry, University of Vermont

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- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I am interested in purchasing a new rod for fishing very tight, small, brushy streams with obstructions on sides and overhead.  I already own 3 rods ranging from 8′-9′ but these are all too long and heavy. I would like to buy a rod between a 2 and 4 weight in a 6-1/2′ to 7-1/2′ length.  After having broken the tip twice on my Sage LL rod, a definite must for this rod is a lifetime warranty or 25 year warranty that Orvis offers. I have looked at the Reddington 4wt 7-1/2′ which has a lifetime warranty but I know 20 years from now Orvis will still be here and they may not.  After reviewing all of the Orvis rods in these sizes it appears that the HLS One Ounce which is a 4wt. 7′ one ounce rod would be best although I am not sure I will like the cork-and-ring reel seat. Has anyone had any experience with the HLS One Ounce?  Or should I consider the Orvis Superfine 2wt. 6′6" One Ounce, 3wt 7′6" Tippet, or the 4wt 7′6" Brook Trout?  Any other rod lines I should look at that have a 25 year or more warranty?  Will I create much more water disturbance by going from a 2-3 weight line to a 4 weight where I will be approaching fish that are very wary?  Is there much difference in throwing a 3wt compared to a 4wt line into the wind on under 20-30′ casts? Thanks for your help in making the best decision possible.

I wouldn’t be afraid of the cork-and-ring reel seat, I have one on my Patridge rod and I have never had problems with it, it’s simpl= y more lightweigth.  To the Orvis rods: Personally i wouldn’t consider the 2weight, the rod is to swippy and has no backbone to cast a weighted nymph or=  cast in windy conds. The 3weight made from HLS graphite is nearly as good as the SAGE LL rod. Anyway: you don’t really feel a diffe= rence between a #3 and a #4 rod, except that the 3weight cast a little bit worse with more wind resistant or heavier flies or in win= dy conditions. I use a short 5weight (!) for nearly all my fishing and I don’t have the feeling to spook trout by serving a 5weight = line more than with the 3weight. The difference is that with that rod it is possible to cast even a very heavy weighted stonefly nym= ph on a heavy leader with lots of split shot without trouble, in contrast to a 3weight. You don’t have to worry about water disturba= nce, if you do, learn to serve the fly better, as I am trying (it works! I learned to serve a fly with a 5weight with nearly as litt= le disturbance as with a #3, it was worth it). Only in very shallow (about 1ft) and very slow and clear water I change to the 3weigh= t, where you don’t need heavy weigthed flys or leaders and the flies are tiny. Anyway: I don’t know how you wade, but most of the flyfishers I spoke to and which were worried about spooking a trout with a #5 lin= e spook the trout before they start to fish (with their 2 or 3weight rod) by incareful wading (so there was no problem to spook the = trout with a heavier line, they spooked them already! Most of these guys make more waterhiking and trout-spooking than flyfishing in= stead standing at one pool and fishing it carefully.). I don’t say, that you do it that way, but cosider the disadvantages of a too = light rod. Something can be evened out by a different (more careful) presentation and approach to a fish! A last point to consider: You can fight a fish faster with a rod with more backbone, which means that you increase the survival rate=  of a released trout (Don’t go under a 3weight! With kindest regards: The Trout). Hope that helps                     tight lines                                Thomas

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I am going to offer a dissenting opinion to most of the feedback you will likely get on your question.  I would not hit a dead dog in the butt with anything lighter that a 4 wgt. for small, tight stream work.  I believe a 5 wgt to be even better.  I have seen very few light (less than 4 wgt….) rods that are capable of punching a fly through brush and under a  hemlock bough that is only 18" off the water.  I had a 7′ 3 wgt. T&T Paralite that was the most beautiful rod I ever owned…. But it was useless… You couldn’t shoot a #14 humpy with it… I fish an Orvis Small Stream Special (7′ 5wgt) for this work… But I have also used the Orvis Rocky Mtn. Flea (6 1/2′ #4) and it is OK.  I like the 5 wgt better.  Eithr of these would be a good choice in my view…    

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I am interested in purchasing a new rod for fishing very tight, small, brushy streams with obstructions on sides and overhead.  I already own 3 rods ranging from 8′-9′ but these are all too long and heavy. I would like to buy a rod between a 2 and 4 weight in a 6-1/2′ to 7-1/2′ length.  After having broken the tip twice on my Sage LL rod, a definite must for this rod is a lifetime warranty or 25 year warranty that Orvis offers. I have looked at the Reddington 4wt 7-1/2′ which has a lifetime warranty but I know 20 years from now Orvis will still be here and they may not.  After reviewing all of the Orvis rods in these sizes it appears that the HLS One Ounce which is a 4wt. 7′ one ounce rod would be best although I am not sure I will like the cork-and-ring reel seat. Has anyone had any experience with the HLS One Ounce?  Or should I consider the Orvis Superfine 2wt. 6′6" One Ounce, 3wt 7′6" Tippet, or the 4wt 7′6" Brook Trout?  Any other rod lines I should look at that have a 25 year or more warranty?  Will I create much more water disturbance by going from a 2-3 weight line to a 4 weight where I will be approaching fish that are very wary?  Is there much difference in throwing a 3wt compared to a 4wt line into the wind on under 20-30′ casts? Thanks for your help in making the best decision possible.

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