Question:

You are not going to want to hear this but . . . . . . you are going to have to become a better fisher if you want to catch larger fish in a Westside river within reach of the Seattle metro. Specifically, you will have to learn to work with the seasonal movements of the fish, the seasonal scouring of the rivers, etc. And you will need to learn to fish the Salt for Silvers and Cutts. If you want it easier or to learn faster, hire a guide and fish the Yak, or the Coast with Chris Bellows if he will have you. You will also do better if you walk in more, avoid the most populat places on weekends, become better with the map, stalk and hunt rather than plop and wait. Move. etc. And then there is always going very light and enjoying the small fish. They are mostly natives by the way. In terms of river tactics, focus more on improving your presentation, than acquiring every pattern imaginable. Dave

Response:

The problem you are facing is that the majority of the fish in those west side rivers are sea run and what you are most likely catching is steelhead or salmon smolts.  What you want to do is find them on their way back in. The Wynoochee river used to have a pretty good summer steelhead run as well as the Kalama.  The North Fork of the Stilliguamish is FF only and has summer runs as well, but it wasn’t much good when I lived over there. Starting in July you can catch sea run cutthroat in the lower section of the Stilly.  When I lived there the South Fork of the Stilly was stocked every summer, but I don’t know if they still do that.  The pink salmon come up the rivers every other year starting in August and those are a lot of fun on a fly rod.  This is the off year I think though.  If you have your heart set on trout, you might think about getting a float tube and fishing the lakes. There are some guys who can catch those sea-runs on dry flies (I was never one of them), but for the most part it’s below the surface.  Nothing like the eager cutts on dry flies that you are used to. I too grew up in North Idaho/Eastern Washington.  Moved to the Seattle area for fifteen years.  Got absolutely sick and tired of all the people, so I moved back.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Brief description of situation: I grew up in Northern Idaho, used to fly fish with the folks. We’d go up to the Lochsa, Marble Creek, the St. Maries, etc… We’d fish for native cutthroat, barbless, catch & release. I now live in Seattle. Recently I’ve found myself with lots of free-time (read laid ff  ) and a desire to get out in the woods a little. Here’s my problem: A friend and I have gone out fly fishing a number of times and have been nothing but skunked. Not quite completely, I pulled in a lot of 3-4 inchers at the Skookumchuck but other than that we’ve had no luck on Skate creek, the Clear & Muddy forks of the Cowlitz, the Green, Snoqualmie MF and SF… We haven’t seen any surfacing or fish at any of these places other than the Skookumchuck. Now listen, we’re beginners and we know this and do not expect miracles… We also know that the waters of many rivers/streams/creeks are very high right now. But, what we’d really like to do is go somewhere where we stand a decent chance of catching (and releasing) a few nice trout, hell anything over 6 inches will seem gargantuan to us. Can anyone help us? I used to be a native trout snob… It seems they’re a little scarcer here than in Idaho… I know no good fishery needs more pressure here in Western Washington, and I know everyone likes to keep favorites secret… But it’d do my buddy and I world of good to get some positive reinforcement by just catching a few. Are there any currently fishable trout streams in Western Washington? Thanks a million to anyone who responds.

Response:

Brief description of situation: I grew up in Northern Idaho, used to fly fish with the folks. We’d go up to the Lochsa, Marble Creek, the St. Maries, etc… We’d fish for native cutthroat, barbless, catch & release. I now live in Seattle. Recently I’ve found myself with lots of free-time (read laid ff  ) and a desire to get out in the woods a little. Here’s my problem: A friend and I have gone out fly fishing a number of times and have been nothing but skunked. Not quite completely, I pulled in a lot of 3-4 inchers at the Skookumchuck but other than that we’ve had no luck on Skate creek, the Clear & Muddy forks of the Cowlitz, the Green, Snoqualmie MF and SF… We haven’t seen any surfacing or fish at any of these places other than the Skookumchuck. Now listen, we’re beginners and we know this and do not expect miracles… We also know that the waters of many rivers/streams/creeks are very high right now. But, what we’d really like to do is go somewhere where we stand a decent chance of catching (and releasing) a few nice trout, hell anything over 6 inches will seem gargantuan to us. Can anyone help us? I used to be a native trout snob… It seems they’re a little scarcer here than in Idaho… I know no good fishery needs more pressure here in Western Washington, and I know everyone likes to keep favorites secret… But it’d do my buddy and I world of good to get some positive reinforcement by just catching a few. Are there any currently fishable trout streams in Western Washington? Thanks a million to anyone who responds. begin 666 wink.gif M^00%/ “`"P““`#P`/`($“`#__P#W[_````".(0]F<0`%B(UIY:GA2 M#[0)0C6(I!.*HSINY%C&L=L]BJ?17<1=_NY$"UWH?HVS1ZG4;“"’Y 3;W5T(&UO<F4N`5534U!#350`.P“ ` end

Response:

Question:

To make things interesting, well actually I just need some patterns to tie, but what are your favorite patterns for the following: 1) BWO pattern 2) Green Drake pattern 3) Caddis pattern 4) Salmon fly pattern 5) Hopper pattern 6) Nymph 7) Streamer PMD pattern Thanks, Warren

Response:

Well here’s my list. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text —— Original Message —– Newsgroups: rec.outdoors.fishing.fly Sent: Saturday, March 17, 2001 10:58 PM To make things interesting, well actually I just need some patterns to tie, but what are your favorite patterns for the following: 1) BWO pattern   – SR2 emerger 2) Green Drake pattern – Parachute Green Drake. 3) Caddis pattern – DRY – CDC & Elk hair.  Nymph – Green rock worm. Emerger – CDC & Biot. 4) Salmon fly pattern – Improved Sofa Pillow or Stimulator. 5) Hopper pattern – Joe’s Hopper 6) Nymph – All purpose – GRHE, or PT 7) Streamer – Black Woolybugger or Wool head muddler. PMD pattern – PMD comparadun. Thanks, Warren Bob Weinberger

Response:

Question:

[deleted] Don’t get too hung up on graphite specs.

Good call Dan !. *Much* better to buy based on more *useful* information such as: MVR (Maximum Vibration Technology) <g — TimW – Halfordian Golfer Guilt replaced the creel…

Response:

writes: Good call Dan !. *Much* better to buy based on more *useful* information such as: MVR (Maximum Vibration Technology) <g

Hi Tim, The point I was trying to make was that yes, there is a lot of different technology out there (including Orvis’ Maximum Vibration Reduction), but the whole point of the tech is to make a rod that works well and feels good to the individual.    It doesn’t matter what the technology is behind it if it doesn’t feel good (or make a difference) to the person buying it.  Got to keep that horse in front of the cart.<g                              Good Fishing,                                     Dan Dan Gracia Orvis West Coast Fly Fishing Schools Mt. Shasta Fly Fishing Schools http://www.thegrid.net/flyfish

Response:

I’ve heard the designation IM6 used when describing rods. It seems as though this is some "grade" of graphite. Can someone enlighten me as to what it means? Thanks, Scott Wilkinson

Hi Scott, There are four generations of graphite compositions that rod makers use today. The original or first generation called graphite #1 is ~30 million modulus The second generation called graphite #2 or IM6 is ~40 million modulus The third generation called graphite #3 is ~ 50 million modulus The fourth generation called graphite #4 is ~ 64 million modulus The later generations are usually lighter and more efficient, but I am really more concerned about how they cast. Bill Kiene Kiene’s Fly Shop Sacramento,CA,USA 800/4000FLY www.kiene.com

Response:

Snip, snip….Don’t get too hung up on graphite specs.  Try out the rod and

see how it worksfor your needs.  Just because a rod says it is IM6 does not necessarily mean it is a better rod than one made out of the older graphite, or a worse rod than a rod made out of a newer graphite formula.  It allows the rod designer more design options than the old graphite and not as many options as the newestgraphite.  The result depends a lot on the skill of the rod designer and how he utilises those capabilities. Hope this helps,

I didn’t raise the question, but that’s about as good an answer as anybody could ask for. Cleared things up for me, anyway. Thanks. From the minute we’re born we all start dying;some of us just take longer than others. Me? I’ve been dragging my feet, but it doesn’t seem to help much.

Response:

I’ve heard the designation IM6 used when describing rods. It seems as though this is some "grade" of graphite. Can someone enlighten me as to what it means?

It stands for "Intermediate Modulus 600" and is a graphite specification that is used to make fly rods.  It is typically known as second generation graphite and was pretty much the standard for many rod companies prior to the higher modulus graphites (third and fourth generation) currently used.  Lots of good fly rods were/are made from this material although it is no longer the standard of the industry. I believe  Winston still makes all of their rods out of this material and they make some very nice (and expensive) fly rods from it. Don’t get too hung up on graphite specs.  Try out the rod and see how it works for your needs.  Just because a rod says it is IM6 does not necessarily mean it is a better rod than one made out of the older graphite, or a worse rod than a rod made out of a newer graphite formula.  It allows the rod designer more design options than the old graphite and not as many options as the newest graphite.  The result depends a lot on the skill of the rod designer and how he utilises those capabilities.                     Hope this helps,                           Dan Dan Gracia Orvis West Coast Fly Fishing Schools Mt. Shasta Fly Fishing Schools http://www.thegrid.net/flyfish

Response:

I’ve heard the designation IM6 used when describing rods. It seems as though this is some "grade" of graphite. Can someone enlighten me as to what it means? Thanks, Scott Wilkinson

Response:

there was an excellent posting on all the types of graphite a couple of months back. I suggest you search Dejanews if you want the straight goods as I am sure I have muddled it up in my memory a tad; graphite as a raw material is available from a number of manufacturers. The original graphite had a modulus of 33 million or so ( 33 million what?) About 10 years ago "2nd generation" graphite appeared with a modulus of 42 million: IM6 and Sage’s graphite II were part of this crowd. 3rd generation followed (ie Graphite III), modulus of maybe 50 million etc etc. So IM6 refers to a 2nd generation graphite fibre from a particular manufacturer. It’s been used a long while, it’s proven, rod designers know it’s qualities and a lot of people like rods made from it. Ralph H note spurious hyperbole, insults and ‘personal attacks’ made by the author are meant to honour "the Soul of Cicero" and are not intended as personal slights. Please don’t take offense as none is intended. remove "(take_this_out)" for email reply.

Response:

Question:

Unless your really going to be using the pack rod for hiking, camping, etc where the small size makes a difference I would stay away from the 4 pc rod. they tend to be very stiff due to the large number of ferrules. I looked at quite a few before i found one that i liked (not stiff). If your just starting out, get a two piece, as the quality is usually much better for the same cost. pack rods req much more engineering to equal the same action of a two piece rod and that extra engineering is usually lacking in lower priced rods and they end up being very stiff. IMO

Response:

I am looking for a beginner’s outfit.  I live in Northern California and will be fishing for trout in rivers and streams.  There are also steelhead, bass and salmon in my area, but I assume (and let me know if I am wrong) that I will need a heavier rod/reel for steelhead, bass and salmon. I was thinking of a 5 weight, 8 1/2 foot rod.  LL Bean has an 2 piece rod  outfit, with a guarentee, for $100    Cabellas has a 4 piece rod outfit  (which may be handy for hiking), with no lifetime guarentee, for about $90.00.  Any thoughts on LL Bean vs. Cabellas?  And if the rods are equal, any thoughts on trading the guarentee (LLBean) for the convience of a  four piece rod (Cabellas)?  Any additional imput would be great. Thanks in advance.

Anthony:         I’d second the advice you got from the other responder to your post I’ve seen and go for the 2 piece unless that kind of small carrying size is really really important to you. As he said, it takes a lot of technology to still give a rod life and yet pack four ferrules on it. Besides, for hiking, you just use the rod case for the 2 piece as a staff. (And they even make a little rubber shoe that fits over standard rod cases to make such a thing even handier.)         As to the weight of your rod, sounds good, and yet, salmon and steelhead would require a significantly heavier rod. BUT, you might want to think about going up one size

Question:

If you’ve got a message, or information which may be of interest to fly fishers in Louisiana, please post it to the Louisiana Fly Fishing web site bulletin board at www.laflyfish.org/laff/bboard.

Response:

Sorry, make that http://www.laflyfish.org/laff/bboard/wwwboard.html. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – If you’ve got a message, or information which may be of interest to fly fishers in Louisiana, please post it to the Louisiana Fly Fishing web site bulletin board at www.laflyfish.org/laff/bboard.

Response:

Question:

I’ve read about using a large double surgeons loop at the end of the tippet and using a loop to loop type connection using the tippet loop and the eye of the fly. This should work for larger or wet flys. Once again the tippet loop would need to be retied occaisionally. Regards, Steve

Response:

Is there any type of sivel made for changing flys? I have trouble tying the flys on because I,m at that age where I can’t see close up. I was wondering if there was some type of small swivel made for flyfishing. I,m new to the sport. Please E-mail me.

Response:

Is there any type of sivel made for changing flys? I have trouble tying the flys on because I,m at that age where I can’t see close up. I was wondering if there was some type of small swivel made for flyfishing. I,m new to the sport. Please E-mail me.

        I use some small snap-links when lure and nymph fishing. I do not have the details ready to hand but believe they are made by Mustad and come in 3 sizes.         They are tied to the tippet with a normal eye, then you snap the fly on to the shepherd crook shaped open loop,         I do not have the details to hand but will post the details tomorrow. Dave Bolt UK

Response:

Is there any type of sivel made for changing flys?

Yeah, there’s such a thing.   But you’re better of learning  to tie those knots with your eyes closed.  Better still, spring for a pair of glasses. Anglerboy — Trout fear me, Women want me.

Response:

: : Is there any type of sivel made for changing flys? I have trouble tying : the flys on because I,m at that age where I can’t see close up. I was : wondering if there was some type of small swivel made for flyfishing. : I,m new to the sport. Please E-mail me. : :       I use some small snap-links when lure and nymph fishing. I do not have : the details ready to hand but believe they are made by Mustad and come : in 3 sizes. : :       They are tied to the tippet with a normal eye, then you snap the fly on : to the shepherd crook shaped open loop, : :       I do not have the details to hand but will post the details tomorrow. : : Dave Bolt : UK   I used these eyes once or twice, while tight, they do make for a quick   knotless wet change. However – the eyelot knot needs to be checked and   retied occasionally.   Alternatively you might try knotting flies to a length of tippet at home   with or without a loop and using loops on your leader to attach them.     This will probably mean a whole new style of carrying the flys to – a   wallet I’d suggest. steve (Melbourne, Aust)

Response:

Question:

What about streams and rivers ina around yellowstone?

Response:

I’m planning to visit Yellowstone NP in the second half of June.  Does anyone have any suggestions for flyfishing locations, techniques, or patterns during this time of year? Thanks. — John Stoeckel

Response:

Float tube on Yellowstone Lake for Cutthroats w/ bead head wooly buggers

Response:

Stop by Park’s Fly shop in Gardiner, Mont., at the north entrance of the Park. some of the nicest folks you could ask for — not the usual pushy "salesmen" you will find. They will give you a Park map, and even mark it for you. Find Indian Creek, and take a bunch of sturdy hoppers. You can fish most of this stream from the bank, with little or no problem from overhangs. Everytime I’ve fished this beautiful stream, I’ve had great luck. Not many monsters, but a super site with lots of action. Have a great trip !!! Don Hurst

Response:

Kelley730 writes: Float tube on Yellowstone Lake for Cutthroats w/ bead head wooly buggers

You’ll have to wait til July to do that, unless they’ve changed the regs. Lewis Lake is open, though, and the same strategy should work.   Bring some stonefly dry patterns too. CQ

Response:

bring your wet suit and kayak. —

Response:

Question:

There was an article in Field and Stream a few years back all about the Bow R. — check out one of the magazine databases on CompuServe.

Response:

FISHING IN ALBERTA AND THE NORTHWEST TERRITORIES (CANADA). I have got a friend that is going to Canada on the 16′th of July and therefore he is very interested in getting some informations about fishing for trouts in Alberta and the Northwest Territories. To be more specific he would like to know something about: 1) Fishing in the Bow River. For example what part of the river has got the best fishing, would it be possible to do a combination of fishing/canoeing down the river and if so where can he rent a canoe? Is it legal to camp on the bank and if not what othe All informations about fishing/canoeing on the Bow River are most welcome. 2) Concerning the Northwest Territories he is interested in hearing from anyone that can tell something about fishing for lake trouts in Great Bear Lake/Great Slave Lake (or any other place that is recommendable) If anyone can help with something of the above mentioned please respond bye email, before the 8′th of July  

Response:

Mr Bo Max Andersen asked on 21 June: 1) Fishing in the Bow River. For example what part of the river has got the best fishing, would it be possible to do a combination of fishing/canoeing down the  river and if so where can he rent a canoe?

Is it legal to camp on the bank and if not what othe <??? All informations about fishing/canoeing on the Bow River are most welcome. The "best" part of the Bow is the special regulations water from the 22x Highway Bridge to the Caresland Irrigation Weir.  It has the greatest numbers of trout per km and the heaviest hatches.  All of the water in this stretch is pretty tame – your friend shouldn’t have any trouble. HOWEVER, I hear from friends that the Bow is running off very heavily and heavy rains have made it worse – when it’s high, some stretches are a little rougher to run through.  I suspect the river will be fishing okay by mid-July, but it is likely to be high, so the dry fly activity may be hard to find – hit the back channels hard.  Streamers can be a blast in higher water, though. As for camping, you will not be well advised to camp on the banks.  They are private property above the high-water marks and prosectution can really spoil the fun.  The islands in mid-stream, however, are not.  We used to camp on those with no problem.  Your friend would be well advised to hit one of the fly shops in Calgary and get a river map and advice (a couple of the islands are actually private). Assuming a pretty sedate pace, the lower Bow from 22x down is about three days, though with a canoe and high water it might only be two. This assumes getting out pretty often.  Policeman’s (about 5 miles downstream from Calgary) to McKinnon Flats is normally a long day’s float. Public access can be had at a number of places in Calgary, then 22x, Policeman’s, McKinnon’s and Carseland.  Vehicle shuttles are pretty easy to get. Hope this helps, Ian Brown

Response:

Question:

There seems to be some debate as to whether an Orvis rod warranty can be transferred with the sale of a rod.  Does it only apply to the original owner?  This would seem foolish as Orvis shouldn’t really care.  A warranty such as their one of 25 years is an implication of faith in their products, not the purchasers.  I am looking at buying a used rod and would greatly appreciate any feedback (perhaps from Orvis or a dealer?).   Thank you. Paul Tickner

Response:

Orvis: built to last, not to cast. Just kidding guys.. Frankie

Response:

I recently sold an Orvis rod, and carefully read the warranty card.  It indicated that the 25yr warranty was only good for the original owner. Hope this helps Rich There seems to be some debate as to whether an Orvis rod warranty can be transferred with the sale of a rod.  Does it only apply to the original owner?  This would seem foolish as Orvis shouldn’t really care.  A warranty such as their one of 25 years is an implication of faith in their products, not the purchasers.  I am looking at buying a used rod and would greatly appreciate any feedback (perhaps from Orvis or a dealer?).   Thank you. Paul Tickner

– Rich Miyara 74 Anderson Hill Enfield NH  03748 Phone:  (603) 650-7827 wk Home:   (603) 632-4090 hm (bef. 9PM ET)

Response:

Sage is the same (i.e. warranty good for original owner only).

Response:

I’ve broken my Orvis Rocky Mtn. 4pc 4 wt. 3 times in 3 different sections in the last year and a half, got them all repaired or more like replaced, didn’t spend a dime, well $5 for shipping. I’m sold on the 25 yr. warranty, as to whether it’s built to last or to cast…. it’s up to you, but it’s sure nice to have a rod that you can treated like a real fishing equipment rather than a piece of heirloom that you might damage on the stream, which i think sure takes the fun out of fishing…….

Response:

Sorry- Orvis rod guarantees only apply to orginal owners of the rod. I know because I just bought a new orvis and thats what ist said on the warranty. I bet that you could just get the person who sold you the rod to trade it in forr you though- or just have them brake it before they sell it to you so you can start out with a new rod. I would not assume that orvis would like this- but it is a no questions asked guarante. tight lines! -matt

: There seems to be some debate as to whether an Orvis rod warranty can be : transferred with the sale of a rod.  Does it only apply to the original : owner?  This would seem foolish as Orvis shouldn’t really care.  A : warranty such as their one of 25 years is an implication of faith in their : products, not the purchasers.  I am looking at buying a used rod and would : greatly appreciate any feedback (perhaps from Orvis or a dealer?).   : Thank you. : Paul Tickner

Response:

I’ve broken my Orvis Rocky Mtn. 4pc 4 wt. 3 times in 3 different sections in the last year and a half, [snip] it’s sure nice to have a rod that you can treated like a real fishing equipment rather than a piece of heirloom that you might damage on the stream, which i think sure takes the fun out of fishing…….

Then again, one should treat a nice graphite rod as something other than a walking stick!!  A nice graphite rod is a delicate and wonderful tool, and deserves better than to be whipped mercilessly upon the water and beat against every stream bank and overhanging tree limb in sight!!! ___ Bob Scott  WY7O | Roses are red, Violets are blue

Response:

Then again, one should treat a nice graphite rod as something other than a walking stick!!  A nice graphite rod is a delicate and wonderful tool, and deserves better than to be whipped mercilessly upon the water and beat against every stream bank and overhanging tree limb in sight!!!

Unless it is an Orvis! Frankie

Response:

I’ve broken my Orvis Rocky Mtn. 4pc 4 wt. 3 times in 3 different sections in the last year and a half, got them all repaired or more like replaced, didn’t spend a dime, well $5 for shipping. I’m sold on the 25 yr. warranty, as to whether it’s built to last or to cast…. it’s up to you, but it’s sure nice to have a rod that you can treated like a real fishing equipment rather than a piece of heirloom that you might damage on the stream, which i think sure takes the fun out of fishing…….

St Croix, (I can hear some of you moaning already) has the same guarantee. I just broke a Premier Graphite 8′ 4-wt.  Called St Croix, explained what had happened (involves my wife, my fly-rod and the basement door), they said to mail it to them with a check for $5.00 shipping and handling and they would replace it.  Came three days ago…brand new…pretty as can be. Now if only the rivers would thaw….      I’m sorry but my karma is broken, anyone know a good mechanic?

Response:

I bought an Orvis d"demo" rod from a dealer, and proceeded to splinter the tip of the rod as well as rot out the reel seat. I was never asked by Orvis to provide proof of original ownership, and had the rod replaced immediately. In fact, Orvis did not have any similar rods in stock, and allowed me to purchase a replacement rod myself, which I was credited for upon them receiving the original damage goods.

: Sorry- Orvis rod guarantees only apply to orginal owners of the rod. I : know because I just bought a new orvis and thats what ist said on the : warranty. I bet that you could just get the person who sold you the rod : to trade it in forr you though- or just have them brake it before they : sell it to you so you can start out with a new rod. I would not assume : that orvis would like this- but it is a no questions asked guarante. : tight lines! : -matt

: : There seems to be some debate as to whether an Orvis rod warranty can be : : transferred with the sale of a rod.  Does it only apply to the original : : owner?  This would seem foolish as Orvis shouldn’t really care.  A : : warranty such as their one of 25 years is an implication of faith in their : : products, not the purchasers.  I am looking at buying a used rod and would : : greatly appreciate any feedback (perhaps from Orvis or a dealer?).   : : Thank you. : : Paul Tickner

Response:

Amen.  I just recently picked up the habit, and dove right in with a Rocky Mountain 6 wt, 4 piece.  I’m relieved to hear that they back it up the way they claim. Also, I agree that fishing is more enjoyable without breaks to clear ice from the guides. If have any recommended streams in the southeast, drop a line.  I spend a lot of time in NC and the mountains of VA. Evan

Response:

Question:

I am planning a 4 day FF trip to Juneau, Alaska at the end of August. I sure could use some info on the following: Fly patterns and sizes Techniques Favorite streams Line size (I will be fishing with a G. Loomis 9′ 6wt) I have a friend who lives in Alaska and fishes quite a bit, but, when I told him that I wanted to come and fly fish he said that he hasn’t seen anyone around Juneau fly fishing and that it was not the method of choice for that area.  I plan on fly-fishing. Am I being too optomistic? Thanks in advance.

Response:

One reason there is so little fly fishing in Juneau is that it is relatively hard to get to a stream. The airport is on a small island off the coast, and there is essentially only 1 road north and south a short distance.  Most people have boats that they use to troll for fish in the inland waterway. I fished there once, on Montana Creek. You want to be careful of bears, especially late in the summer when the spawning fish are in the rivers in numbers.  The scenery is beautiful; have a great time. In article – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -I am planning a 4 day FF trip to Juneau, Alaska at the end of August. I sure could use some info on the following: Fly patterns and sizes Techniques Favorite streams Line size (I will be fishing with a G. Loomis 9′ 6wt) I have a friend who lives in Alaska and fishes quite a bit, but, when I told him that I wanted to come and fly fish he said that he hasn’t seen anyone around Juneau fly fishing and that it was not the method of choice for that area.  I plan on fly-fishing. Am I being too optomistic? Thanks in advance.

Response: