Question:

No need to apologize, although it is appreciated. If some one had insulted one of my friends I would also rush to his defense. I was a bit surprised at the hornets nest my posts opened but I also knew there were abler minds than mine out there that would get things sorted out. My main regret is that the misunderstanding took attention away from the thrust of the original thread. I tried reading Adams last night at work but it was just too sad. I hope I can regain the sense of delight reading his stuff has always given me. Thanks, G.Cleveland p.s. I dont know why my email address bounced Warrens message back. always worked before. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I fear you are comparing the headers from two of Mr.Cleveland

Question:

Hello Ihave the starter Orvis kit that I bought about 9 years ago for sale. It is a 4pc. 6wt. grafite rod with a orvis reel with floating line and a extra spool with sink tip line on it. also a aluminum tub for the rod . reply if interested 125.00 Bye Randy W. Oh ya forgot it’s the green mountain series

Response:

That’s EZ ! www.ezflyfish.com ! — TimW, Halfordian Golfer "A Cash Flow Runs Through It…" "Guilt replaced the creel…"

Response:

Oh Lord – now he’s on commission. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – That’s EZ ! www.ezflyfish.com ! — TimW, Halfordian Golfer "A Cash Flow Runs Through It…" "Guilt replaced the creel…"

Response:

I’m new to fly fishing, but got hooked (no pun intended) last summer. I couldn’t get any bites on bait so pulled out my mismatched fly rod (I bought it years ago at a Kmart closeout sale.) and instantly started getting bites. Apparently the little red misquito and Dave’s Hopper were the right choices. I caught a 4lb Rainbow and hooked several more but couldn’t land them. This was on the San Juan River near Pagosa Springs, Colorado.  Anyway, the point is I want to invest a little (maybe $75?) in a decent fly rod. I almost always stream fish for trout and usually not but about 8-11 inches.  What should I get and where do I get it?  I’d like a matched kit because I don’t know much about fly-fishing. Thanks for the help.

Response:

I bought my wife an outfit from Cabellas…..for my money they have the best combo kits on the market in all price ranges..john

Response:

Anyway, the point is I want to invest a little (maybe $75?) in a decent fly rod. I almost always stream fish for trout and usually not but about 8-11 inches.  What should I get and where do I get it?  I’d like a matched kit because I don’t know much about fly-fishing.

The advice to get Cabela’s catalog to buy an inexpensive outfit is good. They have a wider selection than anybody in the lower price points. From what you say, look for an outfit that is 4 or 5 wt., and 8′6"  to 9′ long.  For a "balanced outfit", you’ll need a reel and fly line to match. If you’re used to K-Mart prices on spinning tackle, you’re in for a bit of sticker-shock.  Is the $75 for a rod only, or a rod/reel/line combination? If the latter you’re really pushing the bottom limits of the market, and are likely to replace it fairly soon if you get serious about the sport.  You may wish to hold on to your existing K-Mart special, and save up about $200 for an outfit that will give you a real performance improvement over what you’ve got now. Michael

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I’m new to fly fishing, but got hooked (no pun intended) last summer. I couldn’t get any bites on bait so pulled out my mismatched fly rod (I bought it years ago at a Kmart closeout sale.) and instantly started getting bites. Apparently the little red misquito and Dave’s Hopper were the right choices. I caught a 4lb Rainbow and hooked several more but couldn’t land them. This was on the San Juan River near Pagosa Springs, Colorado.  Anyway, the point is I want to invest a little (maybe $75?) in a decent fly rod. I almost always stream fish for trout and usually not but about 8-11 inches.  What should I get and where do I get it?  I’d like a matched kit because I don’t know much about fly-fishing. Thanks for the help.

  No doubt you’ve already read the advice on Cabelas, They are right. Give a good look at the 3 forks 3wt. 7.5′ 3piece rod combo. It casts easily to 30′ and beyond if you power it. It’ll be really fun on the size you specified yet has enough backbone for those 4+ pounders if finessed (I’ve done it) but it is more closely related to work than relaxation at that size.Comes complete but I would add a loop (orvis makes the best), the reel is on the large size for the rod but light and usable. It comes kit form so you can learn to attach the leader to line and reel(if you goof just cut it and try again), the line is not of the greatest quality but it’ll get you on the water AND the price is right.                                                       John Popp                                                    in Sanford Fl.

Response:

<< I’m new to fly fishing, but got hooked (no pun intended) last summer. I couldn’t get any bites on bait so pulled out my mismatched fly rod (I bought it years ago at a Kmart closeout sale.) and instantly started getting bites. Apparently the little red misquito and Dave’s Hopper were the right choices. I caught a 4lb Rainbow and hooked several more but couldn’t land them. This was on the San Juan River near Pagosa Springs, Colorado.  Anyway, the point is I want to invest a little (maybe $75?) in a decent fly rod. I almost always stream fish for trout and usually not but about 8-11 inches.  What should I get and where do I get it?  I’d like a matched kit because I don’t know much about fly-fishing.

My advice would be to invest a little more money, dump the ideas about buying a kit,  and get a nice Pro Graphite St Croix rod and put a few extra bucks into the line. This is the setup I started flyfishing with 6 years ago now. I wanted to buy a cheap kit, and see if "I liked it", but a wise person told me to put in a little more money. You’ve already tried flyfishing with the cheap stuff. You will very probably develop into a fanatic. I own many flyrods now, but that old St. Croix 5 wt is still a rod I love and use frequently. Tor Larsen

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I’m new to fly fishing, but got hooked (no pun intended) last summer. I couldn’t get any bites on bait so pulled out my mismatched fly rod (I bought it years ago at a Kmart closeout sale.) and instantly started getting bites. Apparently the little red misquito and Dave’s Hopper were the right choices. I caught a 4lb Rainbow and hooked several more but couldn’t land them. This was on the San Juan River near Pagosa Springs, Colorado.  Anyway, the point is I want to invest a little (maybe $75?) in a decent fly rod. I almost always stream fish for trout and usually not but about 8-11 inches.  What should I get and where do I get it?  I’d like a matched kit because I don’t know much about fly-fishing. Thanks for the help.

Hi All, Bill Kiene Kiene’s Fly Shop www.kiene.com

Response:

Question:

Dear Steve, I read your inquiry regarding the CMR-Reel and I’m sure you’ll be very pleased with it, should you decide to purchase one. You can get all the technical information about all Marryat products including the CMR reel on the Web page at: www.marryat.com Regards, Roger Ritter, Marryat staff – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – When fly fishing for trout in Sweden, I saw someone fishing with the new Marryat CMR reel made in Switzerland. This guy was extremly pleased with its performance. Before buying one, I would like to hear how others feel about this new product. Steve Turner

Response:

When fly fishing for trout in Sweden, I saw someone fishing with the new Marryat CMR reel made in Switzerland. This guy was extremly pleased with its performance. Before buying one, I would like to hear how others feel about this new product. Steve Turner

Response:

Question:

: Why dont you look into a used inflatable. They are incredibly light, Can : move real well with minimum H.P., and can be trailered with ease. Most : 13-16 ft inflatables weigh less that 900lbs with engine. They can also : carry more weight in most circumstances than aluminum or fiberglass boats : of the same size. That would have been a good thought, too, but I ended up buying a new 16′ Carolina Skiff, with the semi-v hull. So far, I couldn’t be more delighted. With the boat, that is. My car, as a tow vehicle — another story. Yeah, the Saturn can pull it. On flat stretches, or down-grades, I can even shift into 5th at highway speeds. But I discovered the hard way about certain ramps. Too steep, too slippery, sand at the base….<sigh It sure as hell takes the fun out of things, when you’re worried like hell about getting it back out of the water, at the end of the day….

Response:

Why dont you look into a used inflatable. They are incredibly light, Can move real well with minimum H.P., and can be trailered with ease. Most 13-16 ft inflatables weigh less that 900lbs with engine. They can also carry more weight in most circumstances than aluminum or fiberglass boats of the same size. DB

Response:

Most fiberglass boats are heavy, and that’s the bottom line at to how much push you get from the kicker.  I’ve got a 15′ glass boat that weights about 400 lbs, the builder stamps it as rated for 25hp, but he personally says its ideal for 15 hp, and the coast guard rates it for 40 hp.  I put a 1997 25hp Mercury on it, and it jumps.  Clearly, I could pull a skier. Also, flat bottom boats (like mine) skip like a stone, once you’re on plane, they fly.  But they’re torture in any kind of chop. Carolina skiffs and whalers are heavy.  If you want to conserve, get an aluminum boat.  If you want to know about my boat builder, email me. (small shop in Central Florida.) – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – It sounds like you want a setup like I got. The boats a 16 foot 1968 Duracraft Aluminum boat. The boat is heavy duty (not a sears special!!!), waying in at about 250 pounds. Its welded at the seems and then has rivited ribs. It was powered by a 1965 Wizard(aka West bend aka Chrysler) 20 HP. This was plenty of power for fishing, though I am in the process of getting a new one (probabl;y a 25hp honda, yamaha, or Mercury). this will probably pull a skier ,maybe, maybe not, never tried. The boat is very stable, is plenty fast for fishing, even with three people, and is strong despite its age. As for trailering, what you got will pull it, (heck even a geo metro would pull it). Figure 250 pounds for the boat, 110 pounds about for the motor, 15 0for the trailer, 100 pounds for gear, 65 pounds for Golden Retriever, and your still under 1000 pounds. Ive pulled this setup with a ‘86 nissan Sentra, so what you got will definantly pull it.                                    Good Luck,                                            Nathan Spitzer Hi folks — I’m suffering from boat fever again, and I’d appreciate any input y’all would be willing to provide, on some pretty basic questions. A couple years ago bought a canoe — almost exclusively for freshwater fishing. Canoe’s aren’t terrific fishing platforms, and finally I sold it and bought a 12′ aluminum Jon boat, which I car-topped. All I could afford, along with an old Sears 5hp engine, which still gives me nightmares. This boat was better, but issues related to car-topping started to become problematic: Haul nasty, leaking engine down 3 flights of stairs, and put in the back seat. Go back for rods, tackle, paddle, anchor, cooler, trolling motor and *heavy* battery, a zillion other things, and load *that* somewhere in my car. Drive somewhere else where my boat was. Tie that on the roof. Scratch roof, getting careless trying to load the boat by myself. Drive to the lake. Do all of the above, in reverse. And that’s just getting in the water. Y’all probably get the idea — I should have bought a trailer, but I couldn’t afford one, at the time. So I finally sold that, too, a month ago. Enough rambling. I’m at a point where I’ve got a little more money, and would like a truly decent boat for fishing/recreation. First: Towing. This is a big issue, and I know nothing about it. I’ve got a 4dr, FWD Saturn with 100k+ miles. I recall the owner’s manual saying something about 1k lbs max, but….? Is that realistic? Were I to buy a used 4-cyl truck, something like an S-10, or Nissan, or Toyota, would this dramatically increase my towing capacity? Are there any web-sites devoted to this — I sure haven’t found much, searching. Second: I’ve seen some ads for "hulls only" for things like 13′ Whalers, and Carolina Skiffs and such. Exactly what would be involved dressing ‘em up for a fishing boat, with enough power to tow the infrequent skier? I’m not entirely inept with common tools, but I’m not sure if this is really a job for the the casual handyman, or if it would cost more than a used boat in the same configuration — ie, center console, a couple seats. Also, would a motor sufficient to pull a skier (nothing fancy, just adequate) + boat + trailer start to get well over anything I could possibly tow with my car or a light-truck? *Roughly*, and I know this is an extremely technical issue in and of itself, but how many HP are we talking about for the above, anyway? 40? 50? 60, minimum? The thing is, I’ve seen old MFG’s and stuff, with ancient, but large OB’s, in the price range I’m looking at. They look heavy as *hell*, and also I have no idea if they’d even run a single season. I’ve seen newish Skiffs with smaller engines (ie, 25hp), that do look light enough to pull with my current car, but I can’t imagine they could get a skier out of the water, and I might be considerably deceived by appearance — they could be quite heavy, too, in reality. Is there any magic combination out there? I could put a hitch on my Saturn and get another, larger Jon boat, but I don’t really want to settle for a compromise, again. I’d rather work for another year or two, and be able to afford something else. Anyway, I’ve babbled enough — any thoughts (to the group’s fine) would sure be appreciated. Steve

Response:

Hi folks — I’m suffering from boat fever again, and I’d appreciate any input y’all would be willing to provide, on some pretty basic questions. A couple years ago bought a canoe — almost exclusively for freshwater fishing. Canoe’s aren’t terrific fishing platforms, and finally I sold it and bought a 12′ aluminum Jon boat, which I car-topped. All I could afford, along with an old Sears 5hp engine, which still gives me nightmares. This boat was better, but issues related to car-topping started to become problematic: Haul nasty, leaking engine down 3 flights of stairs, and put in the back seat. Go back for rods, tackle, paddle, anchor, cooler, trolling motor and *heavy* battery, a zillion other things, and load *that* somewhere in my car. Drive somewhere else where my boat was. Tie that on the roof. Scratch roof, getting careless trying to load the boat by myself. Drive to the lake. Do all of the above, in reverse. And that’s just getting in the water. Y’all probably get the idea — I should have bought a trailer, but I couldn’t afford one, at the time. So I finally sold that, too, a month ago. Enough rambling. I’m at a point where I’ve got a little more money, and would like a truly decent boat for fishing/recreation. First: Towing. This is a big issue, and I know nothing about it. I’ve got a 4dr, FWD Saturn with 100k+ miles. I recall the owner’s manual saying something about 1k lbs max, but….? Is that realistic? Were I to buy a used 4-cyl truck, something like an S-10, or Nissan, or Toyota, would this dramatically increase my towing capacity? Are there any web-sites devoted to this — I sure haven’t found much, searching. Second: I’ve seen some ads for "hulls only" for things like 13′ Whalers, and Carolina Skiffs and such. Exactly what would be involved dressing ‘em up for a fishing boat, with enough power to tow the infrequent skier? I’m not entirely inept with common tools, but I’m not sure if this is really a job for the the casual handyman, or if it would cost more than a used boat in the same configuration — ie, center console, a couple seats. Also, would a motor sufficient to pull a skier (nothing fancy, just adequate) + boat + trailer start to get well over anything I could possibly tow with my car or a light-truck? *Roughly*, and I know this is an extremely technical issue in and of itself, but how many HP are we talking about for the above, anyway? 40? 50? 60, minimum? The thing is, I’ve seen old MFG’s and stuff, with ancient, but large OB’s, in the price range I’m looking at. They look heavy as *hell*, and also I have no idea if they’d even run a single season. I’ve seen newish Skiffs with smaller engines (ie, 25hp), that do look light enough to pull with my current car, but I can’t imagine they could get a skier out of the water, and I might be considerably deceived by appearance — they could be quite heavy, too, in reality. Is there any magic combination out there? I could put a hitch on my Saturn and get another, larger Jon boat, but I don’t really want to settle for a compromise, again. I’d rather work for another year or two, and be able to afford something else. Anyway, I’ve babbled enough — any thoughts (to the group’s fine) would sure be appreciated. Steve

Response:

It sounds like you want a setup like I got. The boats a 16 foot 1968 Duracraft Aluminum boat. The boat is heavy duty (not a sears special!!!), waying in at about 250 pounds. Its welded at the seems and then has rivited ribs. It was powered by a 1965 Wizard(aka West bend aka Chrysler) 20 HP. This was plenty of power for fishing, though I am in the process of getting a new one (probabl;y a 25hp honda, yamaha, or Mercury). this will probably pull a skier ,maybe, maybe not, never tried. The boat is very stable, is plenty fast for fishing, even with three people, and is strong despite its age. As for trailering, what you got will pull it, (heck even a geo metro would pull it). Figure 250 pounds for the boat, 110 pounds about for the motor, 15 0for the trailer, 100 pounds for gear, 65 pounds for Golden Retriever, and your still under 1000 pounds. Ive pulled this setup with a ‘86 nissan Sentra, so what you got will definantly pull it.                                         Good Luck,                                                 Nathan Spitzer – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -Hi folks — I’m suffering from boat fever again, and I’d appreciate any input y’all would be willing to provide, on some pretty basic questions. A couple years ago bought a canoe — almost exclusively for freshwater fishing. Canoe’s aren’t terrific fishing platforms, and finally I sold it and bought a 12′ aluminum Jon boat, which I car-topped. All I could afford, along with an old Sears 5hp engine, which still gives me nightmares. This boat was better, but issues related to car-topping started to become problematic: Haul nasty, leaking engine down 3 flights of stairs, and put in the back seat. Go back for rods, tackle, paddle, anchor, cooler, trolling motor and *heavy* battery, a zillion other things, and load *that* somewhere in my car. Drive somewhere else where my boat was. Tie that on the roof. Scratch roof, getting careless trying to load the boat by myself. Drive to the lake. Do all of the above, in reverse. And that’s just getting in the water. Y’all probably get the idea — I should have bought a trailer, but I couldn’t afford one, at the time. So I finally sold that, too, a month ago. Enough rambling. I’m at a point where I’ve got a little more money, and would like a truly decent boat for fishing/recreation. First: Towing. This is a big issue, and I know nothing about it. I’ve got a 4dr, FWD Saturn with 100k+ miles. I recall the owner’s manual saying something about 1k lbs max, but….? Is that realistic? Were I to buy a used 4-cyl truck, something like an S-10, or Nissan, or Toyota, would this dramatically increase my towing capacity? Are there any web-sites devoted to this — I sure haven’t found much, searching. Second: I’ve seen some ads for "hulls only" for things like 13′ Whalers, and Carolina Skiffs and such. Exactly what would be involved dressing ‘em up for a fishing boat, with enough power to tow the infrequent skier? I’m not entirely inept with common tools, but I’m not sure if this is really a job for the the casual handyman, or if it would cost more than a used boat in the same configuration — ie, center console, a couple seats. Also, would a motor sufficient to pull a skier (nothing fancy, just adequate) + boat + trailer start to get well over anything I could possibly tow with my car or a light-truck? *Roughly*, and I know this is an extremely technical issue in and of itself, but how many HP are we talking about for the above, anyway? 40? 50? 60, minimum? The thing is, I’ve seen old MFG’s and stuff, with ancient, but large OB’s, in the price range I’m looking at. They look heavy as *hell*, and also I have no idea if they’d even run a single season. I’ve seen newish Skiffs with smaller engines (ie, 25hp), that do look light enough to pull with my current car, but I can’t imagine they could get a skier out of the water, and I might be considerably deceived by appearance — they could be quite heavy, too, in reality. Is there any magic combination out there? I could put a hitch on my Saturn and get another, larger Jon boat, but I don’t really want to settle for a compromise, again. I’d rather work for another year or two, and be able to afford something else. Anyway, I’ve babbled enough — any thoughts (to the group’s fine) would sure be appreciated. Steve

Response:

Question:

Looking for a few good crayfish fly patterns.

Response:

Looking for a few good crayfish fly patterns.

Leasa:  Look for the Bob Clouser pattern, which works well for me – at least in Pennsylvania waters.  Sorry I don’t have a reference or description, but you could call his shop near Middletown, Pa. (outside of Harrisburg) and I’m sure he would provide a description and materials. Mark Faulkner

Response:

Looking for a few good crayfish fly patterns.

I saw one last night in Kaufman’s "Fly Tyers Nymph Manual".  It’s a pattern by Dave Whitlock. -Burton

Response:

Bob has Clouser Crayfish kits put together that have everything you need to tie them….directions, materials, hooks, and even a sample fly. If you don’t tie he will mail order them. Clouser’s Fly Shop 101 Ulrich St. Middletown, PA 17057 Ph (717)944-6451

Response:

Hi Leasa-    Ya wanna catch fish or fishermen? Lots of realistic crayfish patterns out there, none work better than a wooly bugger; most don’t work as well.    -Ralph

Response:

Path:

news-s01.ny.us.ibm.net!news-m01.ny.us.ibm.net!newsfeed.uk.ibm.net!news.stea lth. net!cdc2.cdc.net!news.texas.net!news-xfer.netaxs.com!newsfeeds.sol.net!news pump Looking for a few good crayfish fly patterns.

Try a LARGE Wooly Bugger in a bronze/brown with some copper Krystal Flash in the tail and some orange in the wing. Personally, I’ve tied and fished "imitative" Crayfish patterns with good luck in low light on REAL warm days (overcast) but they don’t seem to catch very much better.  Yes, they are tied "reverse" with the tail at the eye, and you weight the "front" of the fly, where the claws are so when you retrieve it, you raise the rod tip, strip line and allow it to fall sort of naturally. Larry #:)#

Response:

"Leasa S. Tucker"  writes: Looking for a few good crayfish fly patterns.

Clouser’s crawdad has been my best underwater fly from Mar to Oct for the last 3 yrs.  I get them from Murray’s Fly Shop in Edinburg,VA. Working em close to a stump in fast water will pull out some beautiful fish…good luck-Joe

Response:

The best crayfish patern I have ever seen is the Pheasant Tailed Crayfish. It was modified in 1988 by Bob Morenski and reworked. You can get the pattern from Mark Olinger, of Daktoa Flies or if you dont tie he can crank some. Deadly on Big Browns and Smallmouth Bass. You can find Mark’s address and stuff off the Lake Fly Fishing Pages. htttp://www.articfire.com/arcfire/fishing.htm. This is one fly pattern that works! — Bob Sheedy Angling Adventures North Lake Fly Fishing On-Line Magazine Home of MASTER ANGLER Fishing Software http://www.articfire.com/arcfire/fishing.htm

Response:

Looking for a few good crayfish fly patterns. Try a LARGE Wooly Bugger in a bronze/brown with some copper Krystal Flash in the tail and some orange in the wing.

I’m not sure at what point you start splitting hairs, but crayfish can vary widely in terms of color, and if they are a bright red, or tan, or green, or even have a bluish-black cast to them, a brown crayfish imitation probably wouldn’t have a great result. It’s just like fishing with dries, sometimes they’ll hit an Adams with abandon, other times your gray-olive flies are ignored in favor of the olive-gray numbers…<g Tight lines, TC Tom Chandler   "When in doubt, have two guys come through the door with guns."                                               –Raymond Chandler

Response:

A General Practioner, a common Northwest steelhead fly is a good crayfish immitation, as is the wooly bugger.  The key is getting down on the bottom and giving the appropriate short quick strips and pauses. I think the larger trouts’ interest and line-snapping voraciousness for these things is in relation to their shell hardness.  Biologists please correct me but I have read that crawfish molt and are soft-shelled and delicious during full moons.   Hold onto that rod when you do this. Mark VInsel — http://www.lanminds.com/local/vinnie/gallery.html

Response:

Question:

I recently moved to a place where I’ve got some decent smallmouth fishing very close by.  Hooked a few before the cold set in, but I don’t feel like I have a sense of how to fish for them.  This river–the Fox, in northern Illinois–is fairly slow and shallow with

David     I have been flyfishing for Delaware River smallmouth for over thirty years and I am possessed  …. and you can find me wet wading ( I really hate waders) 4 to 5 days a week every week until the  water gets too damn cold to wade  ( ~ first week in October). My experience has been that if it is too cold to wet wade… the smallmouth are too cold to bite… You catch a few  but nothing like in warm water coditions. In fact I have had 60 fish days with the water temp in the mid 80’s during the day fishing the riffle areas…. and wet wading under these conditions is almost like sex. Sometimes you just lay in the rapids on your back and cast or swim /float from rock to rock….. Can’t do that with waders ! My favorite smallmouth fishing is late  May and then late summer when the caddis flies hatch. The smallies lign up in fairly shallow, not too swift water and dimple.. You can no way judge the size of the fish by it’s tiny dimple… You would swear you were trout spotting.. I tie all my own flies and have found the following work the best.  caddis flie imitations work well as well as muddlers but sometimes matching the hatch is necessary. During summer the fish like wooly buggers etc. better , except towards evening then go on top with pencil poppers , snaeky pete types ~ 1 1/2 long ( including tail). I tie my pencil poppers with Maribou tails because they have better action. . give it a go !                                                                            Jody

Response:

David,     I would have to agree with Keith — Wooly Buggers seem to be my all around best producer.  I live between the Missisippi and Rum rivers north of Minneapolis, MN and fish the rivers regularly through the summer and early fall months.  I would add that I’ve had good success in late spring (and again in early fall) with frog patterns fished along the shore during their breeding migration.  Kind of like a midwestern version of splatting hoppers…. Zach

Response:

Dave, I’m on the SW side of the Chicago burbs and fish the Kanakakee a lot. Clousers wna Woolies work well as does a SMALL crayfish pattern.  The Kank is not as flat bottomed as the Fox.  Haven’t fished the Fox much so I can’t really say – when I did I used Clousers and did well.  I, too, have been tying like crazy.  One pattern I use a lot also is a variant of the Thunder Creek series – I tie in an olive saddle hackle or two matuka style before adding the deer tail.  Gives a little more action and works well. Kevin

Response:

Two quick comments: don’t stop tying Muddlers, best smallie fly I’ve ever used; when the weather turns colder, don’t be afraid to use big nymphs around ledges, rocks, weed edges etc. Paul Marriner

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I recently moved to a place where I’ve got some decent smallmouth fishing very close by.  Hooked a few before the cold set in, but I don’t feel like I have a sense of how to fish for them.  This river–the Fox, in northern Illinois–is fairly slow and shallow with a hard bottom.  The couple of times I was on it early in the fall I was fishing Clouser Minnows, cast across stream into the edge of a riffle, for instance, drifted and then swung, with a little action. Around bridge pilings, etc.  Worked okay, but you never know… I’ve been tying like crazy–too damn cold around here to do anything else–including a variety of muddlers that I plan on trying.  I’m hoping to hear some more from you smallmouth fanatics out there about fav patterns and especially techniques. How about it, you basstards? Cheers, David (freezing my butt section off in the midwest)

David, I fish for smallmouth on the Shenandoah and Potomac Rivers. Smallmouth are often found feeding right alongside trout in this area. They are primarily structure fish, and will hang near undercut banks, deeper pools, near rocks and logs, but move around during the course of the season. Here in Virginia in the spring they’re caught with Wooley Buggers, Clousers, and other streamer patters. They are in the heads of most of the pools with back currents, and they take the fly with an "electric" tug. As the water warms, they tend to cruise to the shallows in search of minnows and other food, then back to the faster water for security. The surface action takes off here in June, and lasts through August and early September. They love poppers, hoppers, damsel flies, terrestrials, and streamers through the summer months, although as the water level here drops and gets clear, they become VERY wary and you may need to lengthen the leader and approach them with stealth. In the fall they tend to get particular, and may go for steamers one day, and the next take nothing but poppers. They often move into tails of pools, hug the banks and hide under rocks and stumps. My favorite pattern for the fall is not a bass fly at all, but the Adams Irrisistable! It’s a killer here, and they seem to love it when they’ve seen one popper too many. They love dries. Once you’ve been bitten by the Smallie bug, it’s too late. They jump like hell and fight like mules. And they don’t stop fighting when you get them out of the water to try and set them free. Because of this I think they’re one of the toughest fish to handle and de-hook. I can’t wait for this cold weather to get out of here. I want to go fishing!!! Keith in Waterford, VA

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- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I recently moved to a place where I’ve got some decent smallmouth fishing very close by.  Hooked a few before the cold set in, but I don’t feel like I have a sense of how to fish for them.  This river–the Fox, in northern Illinois–is fairly slow and shallow with a hard bottom.  The couple of times I was on it early in the fall I was fishing Clouser Minnows, cast across stream into the edge of a riffle, for instance, drifted and then swung, with a little action. Around bridge pilings, etc.  Worked okay, but you never know… I’ve been tying like crazy–too damn cold around here to do anything else–including a variety of muddlers that I plan on trying.  I’m hoping to hear some more from you smallmouth fanatics out there about fav patterns and especially techniques.   How about it, you basstards? Cheers, David (freezing my butt section off in the midwest)

Try an off white wooly bugger tied on a size 2 long shank hook. if the fish are shallow don’t use any weight.  If they are deep tie in a little silver thread.  Adding a little green to the tail also works well. Rick.

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I recently moved to a place where I’ve got some decent smallmouth fishing very close by.  Hooked a few before the cold set in, but I don’t feel like I have a sense of how to fish for them.  This river–the Fox, in northern Illinois–is fairly slow and shallow with a hard bottom.  The couple of times I was on it early in the fall I was fishing Clouser Minnows, cast across stream into the edge of a riffle, for instance, drifted and then swung, with a little action. Around bridge pilings, etc.  Worked okay, but you never know… I’ve been tying like crazy–too damn cold around here to do anything else–including a variety of muddlers that I plan on trying.  I’m hoping to hear some more from you smallmouth fanatics out there about fav patterns and especially techniques.   How about it, you basstards? Cheers, David (freezing my butt section off in the midwest)

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Question:

I am planning to be in the 1,000 islands area for the weekend of 9/28. What’s the flyfishing like there?  Where are the ‘good’ spots, and what flies are being used.  Also, I am not even sure what fish are available. Please help! Mac

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I am planning to be in the 1,000 islands area for the weekend of 9/28. What’s the flyfishing like there?  Where are the ‘good’ spots, and what flies are being used.  Also, I am not even sure what fish are available.

1.  Fly fishing for bass usually ends rather suddenly in mid-September: but everything is late this year…. 2.  Muskellunge is the prized local species for fall fishing, and might be taken on fly, but no one tries.  (Everyone trolls.) 3.  Lake Ontario tributaries in NY state (south to Oswego) should then be full of chinook and coho salmon and some accompanying trout species too, which can mostly be caught on fly. You need good local information, however, for all these species.  You’d have the most fly fishing fun with #3, perhaps employing a guide. — |  Donald Phillipson, 4180 Boundary Road, Carlsbad Springs,  | |        Ontario, Canada, K0A 1K0, tel. 613 822 0734         |

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Question:

: While considering the many options for 4 pc (or 3 pc) travel rods, I : have generated more questions than answers and would like to survey : those in the group who would share first hand experiences.  The : questions are basically these when considering an all around trout rod : for small to medium western rivers: : : 1  Is there a great advantage to internal ferrrule designs and which : manufacturers offer these designs? : : 2  Which  brand delivers, in your opinion, the best value. : : 3  For budget reasons, I am looking seriously at 5 wts. in the Loomis : GL3, Diamondback, Sage DS Series, and St. Croix. Any good or bad : experiences with these rods? : : 4  What are the preferences among the higher end rods? : : Thanks. : :       IMHO the Loomis GL3, 9 ft., 5 wt., 4 pc. travel rod is the : best value in those you mention. It is without peer as a casting : machine – the reason you use a fly rod in the first and only place. It : is extremely well built, has a life time warranty for defects – and in : my experience – a very liberal interperation of what defect is. The : Sage is a close second in choice – the other two are not worth : considering along side the Loomis and Sage. :       I am a custom rod builder and all of my rods are G. Loomis : IMX, and mostly 4 pc. now. For the high price end you will not go : wrong with a Loomis GL3 or the GL4 coming out to replace the IMX. : Also, if you are looking at high end, check out the Thomas & Thomas : Heritage series designed by Gary Borger. These are very nice casting : tools. I think this, and every other thread like it demonstrates one thing: everybody seems to have a favourite rod that they say is the "best" but there is no consensus overall. It is absolutely pointless to ask which rod is best because everybody will say that the rod they spent the most amount of money on is the best. Basically, I have come to the conclusion that all rods are exactly the same – Like designer jeans, it depends on what label you prefer. I have had a chance to fish with a "cheap" fenwick fiberglas import, a top of the line Sage rod and a T&T which I now own and I have to admit that I was able to cast effectively with all three. I have a friend who has been fishing most of his life (probably more than 20 years) and who swears by a Wal-mart special he bought for $35.00. He outfishes everyone he knows (except his wife ) and has caught everything from pike and atlantic salmon to rainbows in the tiniest streams with overhanging trees,shrubs and other detritus. I feel as if I have been sucked, like many others, into the myth that more expensive is better. All it does is put my income into the pockets of Orvis, Loomis, Sage and T&T executives. It is not the rod that makes the fisherman, it’s the enjoyment of being outdoors in a pristine river doing an activity that we love. Just my two pennies’ worth… Ken

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1  Is there a great advantage to internal ferrrule designs and which manufacturers offer these designs? 2  Which  brand delivers, in your opinion, the best value.

St. Croix 3  For budget reasons, I am looking seriously at 5 wts. in the Loomis GL3, Diamondback, Sage DS Series, and St. Croix. Any good or bad experiences with these rods? 4  What are the preferences among the higher end rods?

Sage, I prefer the look.  Aside from that, Loomis is probably every bit as good if not better than the Sage.  Finally, if I could only have one rod, I’d buy the best of a lesser name vs the cheapest of a top name.   Thanks.

john

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- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – While considering the many options for 4 pc (or 3 pc) travel rods, I have generated more questions than answers and would like to survey those in the group who would share first hand experiences.  The questions are basically these when considering an all around trout rod for small to medium western rivers: 1  Is there a great advantage to internal ferrrule designs and which manufacturers offer these designs? 2  Which  brand delivers, in your opinion, the best value. 3  For budget reasons, I am looking seriously at 5 wts. in the Loomis GL3, Diamondback, Sage DS Series, and St. Croix. Any good or bad experiences with these rods? 4  What are the preferences among the higher end rods? Thanks.

We are selling more multi-piece (3 or 4 piece) rods every year. Nine foot, three piece rods are very hot. Lots of old timers will be shocked at how well they perform. Twenty years ago we all had several 2 piece rods and then one 4 piece we used only for back-packing. Today, my staff and I are using only multi-piece rods. I would cast the rods that you are interested in and find one you like. You might consider the brands with unconditional life-time warranties. William Kiene Kiene’s Fly Shop Sacramento,CA,USA

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I’m a firm believer in travel rods, having owned Sage 3 pce 586 LL, a Sage 3 pce SP 490, a Fisher 6 pce 7-8 wt and a Diawa 5 pce 4-5 wt. Currently, the SP and the Diawa get all the use.  The Diawa and Fisher are spiggot types whereas the Sages use  the ferrule approach.  To be honest, I can’t tell a damned bit of difference when casting, however the ferrule design is reported to be longer lasting as the spiggot fit tends to wear.  That’s what they say, but I’ve seen some old spiggot rods that fit together just fine.  Frankly, ignore the joining method and buy the rod that suits you.  Winston and Hardy uses spiggots for their travel rods and they don’t produce junk for sure. Spend a bit extra if you can and take a look at the Sage LL series. Even though my SP has a greater useable fishing range, the LL has to be the sweetest to cast and fish.  The GL3s are good too.  Try the GL3 9′ 4 wt. as well.  None of what you have mentioned are bad, I.ve casted them all but I have to go back to the LLs.  Its personal preference on my part, but try one.  Try the 3 pce 586.  Sure an SP, GLX, PM10 or T&T Horizon may cast further, but when is the last time you ever casted a fly more than 50′ to catch a ‘bow.  Buy a used one if you have to. Peter – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – While considering the many options for 4 pc (or 3 pc) travel rods, I have generated more questions than answers and would like to survey those in the group who would share first hand experiences.  The questions are basically these when considering an all around trout rod for small to medium western rivers: 1  Is there a great advantage to internal ferrrule designs and which manufacturers offer these designs? 2  Which  brand delivers, in your opinion, the best value. 3  For budget reasons, I am looking seriously at 5 wts. in the Loomis GL3, Diamondback, Sage DS Series, and St. Croix. Any good or bad experiences with these rods? 4  What are the preferences among the higher end rods? Thanks.

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Dear J., I do not personally own a travel rod, but I was recently in the market for a lightweight flyrod and the St. Croix came highly recommended to me.  I know of some flyfishing crazies around this area who own the St. Croix "Pack Rat" and just love them. Kevin J. Engel

Response:

While considering the many options for 4 pc (or 3 pc) travel rods, I have generated more questions than answers and would like to survey those in the group who would share first hand experiences.  The questions are basically these when considering an all around trout rod for small to medium western rivers: 1  Is there a great advantage to internal ferrrule designs and which manufacturers offer these designs? 2  Which  brand delivers, in your opinion, the best value. 3  For budget reasons, I am looking seriously at 5 wts. in the Loomis GL3, Diamondback, Sage DS Series, and St. Croix. Any good or bad experiences with these rods? 4  What are the preferences among the higher end rods? Thanks.

Response:

While considering the many options for 4 pc (or 3 pc) travel rods, I have generated more questions than answers and would like to survey those in the group who would share first hand experiences.  The questions are basically these when considering an all around trout rod for small to medium western rivers: 2  Which  brand delivers, in your opinion, the best value.

IMHO Sage delivers the best value. I have got a 5 wt 3 pc 9 ft Sage-SP and this rod is perfectly alright for nearly all purposes. If you like smaller streams – take this rod. If you prefer bigger streams – take this rod. It covers all kind of streams because of its soft presentation combined with a lot of power and backbone. Additionally, Sage has a perfect warranty: Once I broke my rod they repaired it free of charge within four weeks and inbetween they lent me the same rod to fish with. Good service. Nothing to complain about. 4  What are the preferences among the higher end rods?

See above. Hope this helped. Good fishing and tight lines. Jan — Jan Geert Meents Georgenstrasse 120                              Fax: +89/278174-57 80798 Muenchen                                Phone: +89/278174-56

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – While considering the many options for 4 pc (or 3 pc) travel rods, I have generated more questions than answers and would like to survey those in the group who would share first hand experiences.  The questions are basically these when considering an all around trout rod for small to medium western rivers: 1  Is there a great advantage to internal ferrrule designs and which manufacturers offer these designs? 2  Which  brand delivers, in your opinion, the best value. 3  For budget reasons, I am looking seriously at 5 wts. in the Loomis GL3, Diamondback, Sage DS Series, and St. Croix. Any good or bad experiences with these rods? 4  What are the preferences among the higher end rods? Thanks.

        IMHO the Loomis GL3, 9 ft., 5 wt., 4 pc. travel rod is the best value in those you mention. It is without peer as a casting machine – the reason you use a fly rod in the first and only place. It is extremely well built, has a life time warranty for defects – and in my experience – a very liberal interperation of what defect is. The Sage is a close second in choice – the other two are not worth considering along side the Loomis and Sage.         I am a custom rod builder and all of my rods are G. Loomis IMX, and mostly 4 pc. now. For the high price end you will not go wrong with a Loomis GL3 or the GL4 coming out to replace the IMX. Also, if you are looking at high end, check out the Thomas & Thomas Heritage series designed by Gary Borger. These are very nice casting tools.

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – : While considering the many options for 4 pc (or 3 pc) travel rods, I : have generated more questions than answers and would like to survey : those in the group who would share first hand experiences.  The : questions are basically these when considering an all around trout rod : for small to medium western rivers: : : 1  Is there a great advantage to internal ferrrule designs and which : manufacturers offer these designs? : : 2  Which  brand delivers, in your opinion, the best value. : : 3  For budget reasons, I am looking seriously at 5 wts. in the Loomis : GL3, Diamondback, Sage DS Series, and St. Croix. Any good or bad : experiences with these rods? : : 4  What are the preferences among the higher end rods? : : Thanks. : :       Hi Bruce,                  I am a Loomis manso my first choice would deffinatleybe

the Loomis GL3.  As for the high end rods I would reccomend the Loomis GLX.  The GLX is a much faster rod than the GL3.  I do not know too much about the Sage rods because I have never owned one nor have I casted one.  I hope this helps.      Fish or die,                 Adam Birkes

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Question:

Several fly fishing books for sale: old out-of-print, 1st editions, priced below market value, and in good condition w/clear plastic covers.   Learn from the fly fishing greats, add to your book collection, or start your fly fishing book collection now.  e-mail me if you are interested, during Jan. ‘96 only. Terms: CWO and I pay postage and insurance. JWTrout    1/15/96.

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John, I’d be interested in your list of books for sale. Thanks Simon Hallett

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Question:

I’ve got my pole. I’ve got my flies.  I don’t have line. I found a good reference that describes the different types of fly line, but not leaders and backing(?). What is the material for leaders?  How long? How to attach to the fly line? The text also mentioned a backing line. What is it?  How much do I use? How do I attach it to the fly line? I was thinking about learning on blue gills.  Good/ Bad idea? Thanks in advance for all replies! Ed K.

Response:

In case  you haven’t received a reply on line, leaders, etc…Your rod should have a line weight marked some where just above the cork grip. Might be #6 or some such. You’ll need a line matched to that number. The leaders are made of monofiliment. You need one about 7 1/2 feet with a stength of about 6 pound test for sunfish. To the tip of the mono, add about 2 feet of tippet material (mono) with a barrel or double surgeon’s knot. I’d go to a flyfishing store for more help or buy the L.L. Bean Beginners Guide To Flyfishing," written by Dave Whitlock. Sunfish are great to learn on and fish for forever!!

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