Question:

Took the 15′6" 11 wt. Daiwa to the park at lunch for the first trials with the Airflo shooting head system.  I had on it a 45′ 12 wt. Airflo Type 7 shooting head with a 5′ leader – all attached to 100′ of Airflo running line and practiced my overhead casting with the big stick.  On the fourth cast, I pulled out the backing knot between the stripper and the reel.   That’s 150 freaking feet!! Now if I can only get over my Whirlpool paranoia (losing flies on the rocks on the backcast.) The Airflo shooting head system is super slick, never noticed the loops going through the guides.  I’m in love . . . Peter Visit The Streamer Page at http://home.cogeco.ca/~pcharles/streamers/index.html

Response:

[shoot].   That’s 150 freaking feet!!

Man that’s gonna take awhile to get back on the spool Now if I can only get over my Whirlpool paranoia (losing flies on the rocks on the backcast.)

You have rocks in a laundry that is big enough for a 150ft cast? Everything *is* bigger up there The Airflo shooting head system is super slick, never noticed the loops going through the guides.  I’m in love . . .

Noted. (The airflo bit At least when you lose the whole fly you usually realise pretty quick,   losing the damn point is a much more subtle affair in the implementation and detection … Steve

Response:

[shoot].   That’s 150 freaking feet!! Man that’s gonna take awhile to get back on the spool

Marquis Salmon No.3 – not long Now if I can only get over my Whirlpool paranoia (losing flies on the rocks on the backcast.) You have rocks in a laundry that is big enough for a 150ft cast? Everything *is* bigger up there

Here’s a view of my washing machine. http://home.cogeco.ca/~pcharles/whirlpool/spey_casting_the_line_layou… The Airflo shooting head system is super slick, never noticed the loops going through the guides.  I’m in love . . . Noted. (The airflo bit At least when you lose the whole fly you usually realise pretty quick,   losing the damn point is a much more subtle affair in the implementation and detection … Steve

Not with the big heads – there’s so much momentum it’s easy to snap it off and fish sans fly without noticing. Peter Visit The Streamer Page at http://home.cogeco.ca/~pcharles/streamers/index.html

Response:

Here’s a view of my washing machine.

That the cable car line overhead? Joe F.

Response:

Here’s a view of my washing machine. That the cable car line overhead? Joe F.

And how long will it take him to tangle his line in that ?  That’ll piss em off Scott

Response:

Here’s a view of my washing machine. That the cable car line overhead? Joe F.

Yup, it used_to_be out of reach. Peter Visit The Streamer Page at http://home.cogeco.ca/~pcharles/streamers/index.html

Response:

Took the 15′6" 11 wt. Daiwa to the park at lunch for the first trials with the Airflo shooting head system.  I had on it a 45′ 12 wt. Airflo Type 7 shooting head with a 5′ leader – all attached to 100′ of Airflo running line and practiced my overhead casting with the big stick.  On the fourth cast, I pulled out the backing knot between the stripper and the reel. That’s 150 freaking feet!!

In the U.S that’s only 100′

Response:

Here’s a view of my washing machine. http://home.cogeco.ca/~pcharles/whirlpool/spey_casting_the_line_layou…

S’a beautiful looking spot. Not with the big heads – there’s so much momentum it’s easy to snap it off and fish sans fly without noticing.

Yeah, thinking about it that sounds reasonable.  My only experience has been with lightweight (for heads) #8 #9 and the whole thing can "get out of shape" a lot easier than the conventional #4, & 6 WF setups I use.   I wonder how many Whirlpools there are world wide … I can think of 2 here in Aus. that I’ve fished … one in the salt and one in fresh.  I have pics of both somewhere, but your washing machine winds hands down for scenerics. Steve

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Took the 15′6" 11 wt. Daiwa to the park at lunch for the first trials with the Airflo shooting head system.  I had on it a 45′ 12 wt. Airflo Type 7 shooting head with a 5′ leader – all attached to 100′ of Airflo running line and practiced my overhead casting with the big stick.  On the fourth cast, I pulled out the backing knot between the stripper and the reel. That’s 150 freaking feet!! In the U.S that’s only 100′

My turn – BITE ME! Peter Visit The Streamer Page at http://home.cogeco.ca/~pcharles/streamers/index.html

Response:

Took the 15′6" 11 wt. Daiwa to the park at lunch for the first trials with the Airflo shooting head system.  I had on it a 45′ 12 wt. Airflo Type 7 shooting head with a 5′ leader – all attached to 100′ of Airflo running line and practiced my overhead casting with the big stick.  On the fourth cast, I pulled out the backing knot between the stripper and the reel. That’s 150 freaking feet!!

So how do you hook up with 150 freaking feet of line out? — visit my web site: http://home.earthlink.net/~royalwulff/

Response:

… That’s 150 freaking feet!! So how do you hook up with 150 freaking feet of line out?

Accidentally. — Ken Fortenberry

Response:

Now if I can only get over my Whirlpool paranoia (losing flies on the rocks on the backcast.)

Have you considered trying a cut 850 grain Scientific Anglers Deepwater Express shooting head? I use a soft 8 wt rod in the surf and my preferred setup is about 18 feet of LC-13 connected to a running line.  I like having a short shooting head because sometimes the fish are in really close or they follow the fly all the way close to shore.  Whether I land the fish or not, I have a minimal amount of work to do in order to get the head out past the guides again in preparation for another cast since the head is so short.  Also, there are always dogs, kids, frisbees and who knows what else sneaking up behind me so the short head reduces the chances of incidental non-piscine hookups. A short head is also easier to lift back up to the surface when getting ready for the next cast.  You lose some distance and the transition from back cast to forward cast feels more abrupt (the latter can be minimized by altering your casting motion) but I really like it for the kind of fishing I do especially given that my St. Croix is a slow action rod. You could chop that SA DWE 850 grain head down to 15 feet and still have a 425 grain head. But Airflo has the fastest sinking heads.  That DWE 850 is rated at 9-10 IPS.  A 300 grain Airflo will (purportedly) sink just as fast. Mu

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -Have you considered trying a cut 850 grain Scientific Anglers Deepwater Express shooting head? I use a soft 8 wt rod in the surf and my preferred setup is about 18 feet of LC-13 connected to a running line.  I like having a short shooting head because sometimes the fish are in really close or they follow the fly all the way close to shore.  Whether I land the fish or not, I have a minimal amount of work to do in order to get the head out past the guides again in preparation for another cast since the head is so short.  Also, there are always dogs, kids, frisbees and who knows what else sneaking up behind me so the short head reduces the chances of incidental non-piscine hookups. A short head is also easier to lift back up to the surface when getting ready for the next cast.  You lose some distance and the transition from back cast to forward cast feels more abrupt (the latter can be minimized by altering your casting motion) but I really like it for the kind of fishing I do especially given that my St. Croix is a slow action rod. You could chop that SA DWE 850 grain head down to 15 feet and still have a 425 grain head. But Airflo has the fastest sinking heads.  That DWE 850 is rated at 9-10 IPS.  A 300 grain Airflo will (purportedly) sink just as fast. Mu

I’ve done that before with a DWE 850 but I *really* didn’t like how they casted.  The Airflo Type 7 on a 15′6" rod isn’t a handful at all and can be brought in quite close.  The rod action allows some loading in tight in the event you just want to fish in front of you and the loops are so smooth, they’ll run through the guides with no problem. Peter Visit The Streamer Page at http://home.cogeco.ca/~pcharles/streamers/index.html

Response:

Took the 15′6" 11 wt. Daiwa to the park at lunch for the first trials with the Airflo shooting head system.  I had on it a 45′ 12 wt. Airflo Type 7 shooting head with a 5′ leader – all attached to 100′ of Airflo running line and practiced my overhead casting with the big stick.  On the fourth cast, I pulled out the backing knot between the stripper and the reel. That’s 150 freaking feet!! So how do you hook up with 150 freaking feet of line out?

Ken’s right – 15 lbs. of steelie  or 30 lbs. of chinook doesn’t require any finesse – the fish hook themselves and with 15′ 6" of rod in the air, I can move a lot of line.  The furthest out I’ve hooked a fish so far has been about 80′-85′ on a streamer (below Lower Dam on the Rapid – about a 2 1/2 lb. salmon.).  There’s so much current pressure on the line that soon as you feel weight and tighten up, the pressure on the line sets the hook. Avoiding breaking off the fish, is the second biggest challenge.  It is real easy to overpower your tippet with that rod in those conditions.  Hooking up isn’t a big deal, getting ‘em to strike when things are slow – that’s the real challenge. Peter Visit The Streamer Page at http://home.cogeco.ca/~pcharles/streamers/index.html

Response:

http://home.cogeco.ca/~pcharles/whirlpool/spey_casting_the_line_layou… S’a beautiful looking spot.

Here is Mapquest’s rendition of the Whirlpool http://makeashorterlink.com/?U2DA6278 Looks like it’s about 900 across.  And that ain’t slack water in there. Look at the direction of the river (flows northwards).  I slams into the whirlpool in a northwesterly direction and then pours out northeasterly. Or maybe this is just the "shadow" Whirlpool Mu

Response:

loops are so smooth, they’ll run through the guides with no problem.

Are those the seamless polymer loops?  My Rio intermediate shooting head has a loop with some sort of sleeve on it and it does not traverse the guides very well. Mu

Response:

loops are so smooth, they’ll run through the guides with no problem. Are those the seamless polymer loops?  My Rio intermediate shooting head has a loop with some sort of sleeve on it and it does not traverse the guides very well. Mu

Yup, the Head loop is conventional looking but small.  The running line loop is the fused polymer type, very large so it can be slipped over a spool – very well thought out. Peter Visit The Streamer Page at http://home.cogeco.ca/~pcharles/streamers/index.html

Response:

Mr Charles,   We are sorry to inform you sir that we will have to cry FOUL on the posting of that picture. To think that someone would have the cajones to post something like that only in the interest of teasing others. A pox upon you sir. Is there room in that whirlpool for 2? –SteveC– I’ll show if there are no A-6 drivers around.

Response:

–SteveC– I’ll show if there are no A-6 drivers around.

Then keep Epps out of the stew. — Frank Reid Reverse email to reply.

Response:

Mr Charles,  We are sorry to inform you sir that we will have to cry FOUL on the posting of that picture. To think that someone would have the cajones to post something like that only in the interest of teasing others. A pox upon you sir.

nah, nah – I got my pox shots already – a pox back at ya Is there room in that whirlpool for 2?

Well sure, we can always fit in one more.  Just leave the pox at home. –SteveC– I’ll show if there are no A-6 drivers around.

Ah, I see you’ve met one or two already.  <g Peter Visit The Streamer Page at http://home.cogeco.ca/~pcharles/streamers/index.html

Response:

Peter Charles: –SteveC– I’ll show if there are no A-6 drivers around. Ah, I see you’ve met one or two already.  <g Peter

Dave, 4.2L A6

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Peter Charles: –SteveC– I’ll show if there are no A-6 drivers around. Ah, I see you’ve met one or two already.  <g Peter Dave, 4.2L A6

Perish the thought! This only applies to those guys that drive (and there’s only a few left) those gray Grumman A-6’s. I’ve noticed they aren’t real good around gondola wires. –SteveC– Who lives far too close to 2 naval air stations

Response:

Dave, 4.2L A6 Perish the thought! This only applies to those guys that drive (and there’s only a few left) those gray Grumman A-6’s. I’ve noticed they aren’t real good around gondola wires. –SteveC– Who lives far too close to 2 naval air stations

Ahh, that was a just little too obscure for us.  We’re slipping obviously. Peter Visit The Streamer Page at http://home.cogeco.ca/~pcharles/streamers/index.html

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Mr Charles,  We are sorry to inform you sir that we will have to cry FOUL on the posting of that picture. To think that someone would have the cajones to post something like that only in the interest of teasing others. A pox upon you sir. nah, nah – I got my pox shots already – a pox back at ya Is there room in that whirlpool for 2? Well sure, we can always fit in one more.  Just leave the pox at home. –SteveC– I’ll show if there are no A-6 drivers around. Ah, I see you’ve met one or two already.  <g Peter

Unfortunately yes, I have. You can always spot ‘em from a mile off too, they love those big watches! –SteveC– I thought the Avenger was a comic book hero? – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Visit The Streamer Page at http://home.cogeco.ca/~pcharles/streamers/index.html

Response:

–SteveC– I’ll show if there are no A-6 drivers around. Then keep Epps out of the stew.

Frank got it though – who ever said military intelligence is an oxymoron. Peter Visit The Streamer Page at http://home.cogeco.ca/~pcharles/streamers/index.html

Response:

Question:

I need to organise a flyfishing competition for fathers day and I need a couple of ideas on how to go about it. We’re doing this in a shopping mall parking lot so we’re just concentrating on casting (distance or accuracy). Does any body have any suggestions that will allow novices as well as experts to have a good time? Ari

Response:

I need to organise a flyfishing competition for fathers day and I need a couple of ideas on how to go about it. We’re doing this in a shopping mall parking lot so we’re just concentrating on casting (distance or accuracy). Does any body have any suggestions that will allow novices as well as experts to have a good time? Ari

        1.  paint a strip of the parking lot various shades of blue and green in an "s" curve about 90′ long.         2.  drag a few rocks from nearby rural areas into the parking lot and place them randomly within your painted area.         3.  cut out "fish" profiles from 1/4 inch plywood, paint them silver with a big red stripe down the middle and place them near the rocks.         4.  have large signs painted with the word "mountains" on them, and direct several beautiful, nubile women to hold them above their heads from time to time, placing the women on either side of the painted area.         5.  purchase a roff clave t-shirt for each of the women, ban or burn their bras, and hose them down every 5 or 10 minutes with tepid water.  the shirts can be purchased from little wayno’s outfitters (we never close) for the paltry sum of $50 each, including shipping.         6.  serve "carolina see-throughs" (vodka, tonic, no lime) to each contestant upon demand.         if you will follow those simple instructions, you won’t have to worry about silly impediments like rules or prizes.         as forty would say, "you’re welcome". for the firm wayno

Response:

Thanks Man, Sounds cool for a sunny day but we’re in the middle of bloody winter over here and all the nubile girls round here know how rude it is to point. Oh and if we could attend any of your competitions over there that would be just great. Cheers Ari – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I need to organise a flyfishing competition for fathers day and I need a couple of ideas on how to go about it. We’re doing this in a shopping mall parking lot so we’re just concentrating on casting (distance or accuracy). Does any body have any suggestions that will allow novices as well as experts to have a good time? Ari    1.  paint a strip of the parking lot various shades of blue and green in an "s" curve about 90′ long.    2.  drag a few rocks from nearby rural areas into the parking lot and place them randomly within your painted area.    3.  cut out "fish" profiles from 1/4 inch plywood, paint them silver with a big red stripe down the middle and place them near the rocks.    4.  have large signs painted with the word "mountains" on them, and direct several beautiful, nubile women to hold them above their heads from time to time, placing the women on either side of the painted area.    5.  purchase a roff clave t-shirt for each of the women, ban or burn their bras, and hose them down every 5 or 10 minutes with tepid water.  the shirts can be purchased from little wayno’s outfitters (we never close) for the paltry sum of $50 each, including shipping.    6.  serve "carolina see-throughs" (vodka, tonic, no lime) to each contestant upon demand.    if you will follow those simple instructions, you won’t have to worry about silly impediments like rules or prizes.    as forty would say, "you’re welcome". for the firm wayno

Response:

 Saw one where they put a Hulahoop on a ten foot pole and you have to cast through it, i.e. your whole loop.  The pole is 15 foot in front of the caster.  Prizes for those who make it through the most time in succession.                 Frank Reid

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Hi Ari, some of the following have worked well in the past: whip some rings on a broomstick, and have a distance competition with this. ( Use cheap line ! ) Obtain a plastic blow up animal such as is used on the beach, or a rocking horse, or similar. Contestants must cast to dinner plates placed at suitable distances while a couple of guys "rock the boat". Ten, twenty, thirty feet, etc. Tie a twenty foot  length of limp string to a garden cane, and a leader to this. Accuracy is the goal here. Cast only with the butt of a two piece rod.  And then only with the tip. Distance cast "from the hand", no rod or reel allowed. Casting with two rods simultaneously to two separate targets. A knot tying competition. Blindfold casting.  The rod is placed in the blindfolded persons hand, he is "turned around fast a few times", and has to try and hit the target from memory. " The golden shot", same as the blindfold, but one person gives directions to the caster, using only the words "left", "right", "cast". Get a washing up bowl or similar, attach this to a piece of string, this is pulled along by two volunteers, and the caster must hit the moving target. Roll casting a hosepipe. ( Be careful you have plenty of space here, if it hits anybody it hurts ! ). Roll casting a rope. There are lots of others, but these have always worked well and provided a lot of amusement, and some surprises. TL MC — "In order to achieve what is possible, one must constantly attempt the impossible" http://www.mikeconnor.de

Response:

Hi Ari, some of the following have worked well in the past: whip some rings on a broomstick, and have a distance competition with this. ( Use cheap line ! ) Obtain a plastic blow up animal such as is used on the beach, or a rocking horse, or similar. Contestants must cast to dinner plates placed at suitable distances while a couple of guys "rock the boat". Ten, twenty, thirty feet, etc. Tie a twenty foot  length of limp string to a garden cane, and a leader to this. Accuracy is the goal here. Cast only with the butt of a two piece rod.  And then only with the tip. Distance cast "from the hand", no rod or reel allowed. Casting with two rods simultaneously to two separate targets. A knot tying competition. Blindfold casting.  The rod is placed in the blindfolded persons hand, he is "turned around fast a few times", and has to try and hit the target from memory. " The golden shot", same as the blindfold, but one person gives directions to the caster, using only the words "left", "right", "cast". Get a washing up bowl or similar, attach this to a piece of string, this is pulled along by two volunteers, and the caster must hit the moving target. Roll casting a hosepipe. ( Be careful you have plenty of space here, if it hits anybody it hurts ! ). Roll casting a rope. There are lots of others, but these have always worked well and provided a lot of amusement, and some surprises. TL MC — "In order to achieve what is possible, one must constantly attempt the impossible" http://www.mikeconnor.de

Response:

Question:

You might try using a hypodermic needle to inject some epoxy between the grip and rod. — Ernie Harrison Remove NOSPAM to send E-Mail Selling my Fly Fishing Books Go to: http://users.ccnet.com/~emh – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I built a GL3  7 1/2 ft 4 wt last winter, but the cork grip was just a bit loose before epoxying it to the blank. The lower 1/2 of the grip toward the reel seat was a pretty good fit, but the upper half has developed a squeak.   The grip is not actually loose but it is starting to feel sloppy (for lack of a better word).  Any ideas about how to fix this problem?  The fellow at the rod shop just looked at me knowingly and nodded his head saying "yup, I kin fix’er fer ye".  Which means stripping off the guides and replacing the grip. I’d like to try something less invasive but can’t figure a way to get the epoxy between the grip and blank. Patrick  

Response:

I built a GL3  7 1/2 ft 4 wt last winter, but the cork grip was just a bit loose before epoxying it to the blank. The lower 1/2 of the grip toward the reel seat was a pretty good fit, but the upper half has developed a squeak.   The grip is not actually loose but it is starting to feel sloppy (for lack of a better word).  Any ideas about how to fix this problem?  The fellow at the rod shop just looked at me knowingly and nodded his head saying "yup, I kin fix’er fer ye".  Which means stripping off the guides and replacing the grip.  I’d like to try something less invasive but can’t figure a way to get the epoxy between the grip and blank.

The only sure cure is a new cork grip that fits correctly with no voids (empty space inside.) Glue is needed only in the thinnest film, to prevent the inside surface of the cork from separating from the rod blank at any point, under whatever stress, so that no void can begin.  Building with voids and filling them will be unsatisfactory in the long run.  The glues react to bending and stretching differently from both blank material and cork, and if more rigid than both will probably wear away the softest i.e. the cork, depending on blank butt stiffness and actual use. I.e. do it right or not at all, if you want to use this rod with pleasure and confidence for a long time.  A repair by injecting glue may be acceptable on a spare rod, used only intermittently, I suppose. — |  Donald Phillipson, 4180 Boundary Road, Carlsbad Springs,  | |        Ontario, Canada, K0A 1K0, tel. 613 822 0734         |

Response:

[deleted] but the upper half has developed a squeak.

[deleted] Duct tape usage #309. — TimW – Halfordian Golfer Guilt replaced the creel…

Response:

I have successfully repaired a grip by doing the following: 1) Get some 2 ton epoxy glue. Do not use the 5 minute stuff or super glue. This glue will take at least 24-36 hours to completely setup. It usually comes in 2 hypodermic syringes that are fused together. 2)I put these syringes close to a heat source like a light bulb to heat the solutions which will make them less viscous. 3) Get a 10 cc hypodermic syringe from a physician friend, dentist or vet. Be sure it is clean. You will ruin this syringe.Get a 20 gauge hypo needle at least 1 inch long. 4) Mix glue while it is warm and insert into the syringe. 5) Insert needle into the cork handle and push the glue into the space. You may need to inject in several places. Put rod aside for at least 24 hours before you flex it. I have used this technique on several rods successfully. The holes made by the needle in the cork are small and have been no problem You can repair them as needed. The first time I tried this, I used a 2cc syringe. I was unsuccessful until I used the larger syringe with a bigger bore needle. The 10 cc with the 20 gauge has worked OK, especially after the warming of the solutions. Good luck and let me know how it works out. Regards, J.

Response:

Snip 2)I put these syringes close to a heat source like a light bulb to heat the solutions which will make them less viscous.

I think Jack means "more viscous" and he’s right, warm it up slightly first. You can also use a hair dryer.

Response:

With all due respect, the viscosity of a solution is, according to physic textbooks:  " the property of a fluid which resists change in the shape or molecular arrangement during flow"  As stated in my post, we heat these solutions in order that they become less viscous and more "runny" if you will. A solution that is more viscous has a greater tendency to resist a change in its shape. Water for instance, is less viscous than molasses. My two cents worth. Jack.

Response:

More viscous, less viscous…. I got the point.  Thanks for the advice all the same.  I’m planning on giving this a try this weekend.  Will let you know how it turns out. Patrick

Response:

All the advice is good. I’d just be careful that you don’t hurt the blank itself when you do this. I could imagine having the rod splinter at the grip from a flaw you put into the blank. Of course it would happen on the 24 inch brown. FlyFisherRay

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I built a GL3  7 1/2 ft 4 wt last winter, but the cork grip was just a bit loose before epoxying it to the blank. The lower 1/2 of the grip toward the reel seat was a pretty good fit, but the upper half has developed a squeak. The grip is not actually loose but it is starting to feel sloppy (for lack of a better word).  Any ideas about how to fix this problem?  The fellow at the rod shop just looked at me knowingly and nodded his head saying "yup, I kin fix’er fer ye".  Which means stripping off the guides and replacing the grip.  I’d like to try something less invasive but can’t figure a way to get the epoxy between the grip and blank. The only sure cure is a new cork grip that fits correctly with no voids (empty space inside.) Glue is needed only in the thinnest film, to prevent the inside surface of the cork from separating from the rod blank at any point, under whatever stress, so that no void can begin.  Building with voids and filling them will be unsatisfactory in the long run.  The glues react to bending and stretching differently from both blank material and cork, and if more rigid than both will probably wear away the softest i.e. the cork, depending on blank butt stiffness and actual use. I.e. do it right or not at all, if you want to use this rod with pleasure and confidence for a long time.  A repair by injecting glue may be acceptable on a spare rod, used only intermittently, I suppose. — |  Donald Phillipson, 4180 Boundary Road, Carlsbad Springs,  | |        Ontario, Canada, K0A 1K0, tel. 613 822 0734         |

  Yah, Don is correct. But if you want to a better half-assed job inject one of the new polyurethane bond  glues. These glues expand in cavities and fill gaps. About 10 years ago I used this type glue for mounting grips. However, the company that mad it took it off the market because of poor shelf life problems. Now there is a new generation of these glues, one Brand Is Elmer’s Pro Bond. These glues have a good open time and a tremendous bonding ability (ask Norm Abrams). Good Luck -Doug Easton

Response:

<snip But if you want to a better half-assed job inject one of the new polyurethane bond  glues.

<rest deleted for brevity Yeah, thats me… half an ass.  My wife keeps telling me the seat of my pants look like a family of Bedouins have recently moved out. Patrick  (suffering from no-ass-itis)

Response:

got to your local pharmacy and get a syringe (disposable plastic) and then stop by your local fire station or even a vetrinarian’s office and get a GREAT BIG needle.  just shoot that grip down in there full of glue…..    At least, it seems reasonable to me… – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I built a GL3  7 1/2 ft 4 wt last winter, but the cork grip was just a bit loose before epoxying it to the blank. The lower 1/2 of the grip toward the reel seat was a pretty good fit, but the upper half has developed a squeak. The grip is not actually loose but it is starting to feel sloppy (for lack of a better word).  Any ideas about how to fix this problem?  The fellow at the rod shop just looked at me knowingly and nodded his head saying "yup, I kin fix’er fer ye".  Which means stripping off the guides and replacing the grip.  I’d like to try something less invasive but can’t figure a way to get the epoxy between the grip and blank. Patrick

Response:

Go to a local woodworking store if there is one near you. They sell a hypodermic looking glue injector that is used to push glue into a joint to glue it. If there are no stores near you, go to http://www.todayswoodworker.com I believe you can order it from them. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I built a GL3  7 1/2 ft 4 wt last winter, but the cork grip was just a bit loose before epoxying it to the blank. The lower 1/2 of the grip toward the reel seat was a pretty good fit, but the upper half has developed a squeak. The grip is not actually loose but it is starting to feel sloppy (for lack of a better word).  Any ideas about how to fix this problem?  The fellow at the rod shop just looked at me knowingly and nodded his head saying "yup, I kin fix’er fer ye".  Which means stripping off the guides and replacing the grip.  I’d like to try something less invasive but can’t figure a way to get the epoxy between the grip and blank. Patrick

Response:

I built a GL3  7 1/2 ft 4 wt last winter, but the cork grip was just a bit loose before epoxying it to the blank. The lower 1/2 of the grip toward the reel seat was a pretty good fit, but the upper half has developed a squeak.   The grip is not actually loose but it is starting to feel sloppy (for lack of a better word).  Any ideas about how to fix this problem?  The fellow at the rod shop just looked at me knowingly and nodded his head saying "yup, I kin fix’er fer ye".  Which means stripping off the guides and replacing the grip.  I’d like to try something less invasive but can’t figure a way to get the epoxy between the grip and blank. Patrick  

Response:

Question:

I live in Manhattan, and don’t have a car.  I want to take the train to Kensico Resevoir.  Does anyone know where I can fish this resevoir from the bank? Also, do you know other places I can fly Fish via public transportaion? Thanks, Randy Kadish

Response:

I live in Manhattan, and don’t have a car.  I want to take the train to Kensico Resevoir.  Does anyone know where I can fish this resevoir from the bank? Also, do you know other places I can fly Fish via public transportaion? Thanks, Randy Kadish

Randy – I have absolutely no idea, but I am very interested in seeing any replies – hope you get some.  Public transportation to flyfishin – real dedication.  What about packing up a float tube to take to the lake?  Might be doable. mark Faulkner

Response:

Don’t know about public tranportation( probably railroad to neareat town and then taxi) However, I believe in addition to your license you’ll need a reservoir permit. They’re available from one of the NYC gov’t offices in Mahattan. You used to need some photos and it was free and good forever. May not be true now. If you can’t find the office(dept of water?) call urban Anler , Capitol tackle oe or Orvis, someone wil have the info They may even know a way to get there with public transit. gerry

Response:

I believe in addition to your license you’ll need a reservoir permit. They’re available from one of the NYC gov’t offices in Mahattan. You used to need some photos and it was free and good forever. May not be true now. gerry

It is not true now. NYC watershed permits no longer require a photo and are good for five years.  As for public transportation to good fly fishing, it is definitely possible. I can think of two prime spots near train stations on Metro North’s Harlem line.

Response:

I can think of the same places along the Metro North Hudson line. Better get Jim Capposella’s book, "Good Fishing Within 50 Miles of New York City" – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I live in Manhattan, and don’t have a car.  I want to take the train to Kensico Resevoir.  Does anyone know where I can fish this resevoir from the bank? Also, do you know other places I can fly Fish via public transportaion? Thanks, Randy Kadish

Response:

Kensico, like most of the Croton Watershed reservoirs, is not easily fishable from shore because of steep dropoffs. Also, belly boats and the like are forbidden. In fact, there are a number of restrictions, rules etc. for fishing this water because it’s owned by NYC. You will need a special watershed permit, as well. Having said that, why not consider the connecting streams? The West Branch of the Croton, the Amawalk and, especially, the East Branch of the Croton offer fine fishing easily accessible from Metro-North. The Croton TU chapter published a very fine guide to the area some years ago and some of the local shops still carry it.

Response:

If the Bedford Sportsman in Bedford, NY is still around , they may have those maps. gerry

Response:

Go talk to Edwin Valentin at the Urban Angler in NYC.  Though not so often now, in the past he used to take the Metro North train all the time up to the East Branch of the Croton.  He’d get let off in Brewster, then either hop a cab or walk to the stream.

Response:

Question:

 10.  Your hook is on backwards. Anglerboy Any ideas to finish?

Response:

 10.  Your hook is on backwards. Anglerboy Any ideas to finish?

9. Your fly is stuck on the fern 20 feet behind you.      - Ken — Ken Janik Oregon State University Dept of Electrical and Computer Engineering

Response:

9. Your line is dry. — Dennis C. Aron Independent Representative #13921 Champion Fishing Co., Ltd e-mail for income opportunity – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text –  10.  Your hook is on backwards. Anglerboy Any ideas to finish?

Response:

10.  Your hook is on backwards.

Two words.. "Fez Hat" email hacked to foil spammers

Response:

 10.  Your hook is on backwards. Anglerboy Any ideas to finish? 9. Your fly is stuck on the fern 20 feet behind you.     – Ken

8. You have been fishing for ten minutes without realizing you lost your fly. David

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text –  10.  Your hook is on backwards. Anglerboy Any ideas to finish? 9. Your fly is stuck on the fern 20 feet behind you.     – Ken 8. You have been fishing for ten minutes without realizing you lost your fly. David

7) Your rod is so light you cast 16 times before you realized you left the rod on the river bank.

Response:

 10.  Your hook is on backwards. Anglerboy Any ideas to finish?

1. You are fishing with me after telling me stories for years about how you never get skunked.

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – 9. Your line is dry. — Dennis C. Aron Independent Representative #13921 Champion Fishing Co., Ltd e-mail for income opportunity  10.  Your hook is on backwards. Anglerboy Any ideas to finish? youre sitting at home surfing the net

Response:

10.  Your hook is on backwards. Anglerboy Any ideas to finish?

I have been casting the last hour without a fly? Why don’t we stop false casting? Someone drained your swimming pool? Bill Kiene Kiene’s Fly Shop Sacramento,CA,USA 800/4000FLY

Response:

  9.  You’re too busy deleting all of the cheesy filler this list generates, to ever make it out the door : Anglerboy : Any ideas to finish? — gp

Response:

    9.  You’re too busy deleting all of the cheesy filler this list   generates, to ever make it out the door 8.  Some carnsarned kid caught ‘em all. 7.  With a cane pole she cut, using worms. Anglerboy

Response:

Response:

….your fly fishing, should of used live bait!! marco

Response:

8. You have been fishing for ten minutes without realizing you lost your fly. David

        Actually, you didn’t lose your fly– you just lost the bend and point of the hook.  The fly still looks beautiful! — Tight Threads,         Charley Renn         Corvallis, OR

Response:

10.  Your hook is on backwards. Anglerboy Any ideas to finish?

9. You just pissed in the stream and the fish know! 8. Your dog just pissed in the stream. 7. You’re wading in the same same smelly sneakers as two seasons ago. 6. You snapped the nymph off your tippet six  casts ago. 5. You’re tying up your flies with the same fingers you use to take a pinch of chewing tobacco 4. Your dry fly is not getting "down to where the fish are." 3. Your nymph is not skating across the film like it ought to. 2. Got drunk and missed the hatch. And the number one reason you’re not catching fish. . . The wife wants you to finish putting up the shelves in the pantry.

Response:

You’ve been breathing too much head cement.

Response:

10.  Your hook is on backwards. Two words.. "Fez Hat" email hacked to foil spammers

You’re spending all your fishing time on ROFF

Response:

Question:

I would echo Tom Hewitt’s comment re: standing in a canoe
to flyfish.  Canoes are an excellent platform if you want to develop the skill. I would note, however, that not all canoes
perform equally for this purpose.  As mentioned in Tom’s article
flat, shallow-v, and shallow-arch bottomed boats in general are
better choices to begin with. But keep in mind that your own sense of balance will determine which boat you feel most comfortable in.  Some v-hulled canoes are rather narrow (33 inches and less for 16′ length) and tho stable feeling while sitting, grow inherently less stable as the the center
of gravity moves higher compared to wider (34" up width) boats.
There are several ways to become accustomed to standing in a
canoe to flyfish or pole, or to scout a rapid, etc…  One would be to simply take the boat you have now and start practicing.
The second would be to borrow or use as flat-bottomed a boat as you can find and start at that level.  Progress to a better quality canoe as you feel more capable.  Your progress will be
limited only by your tenacity.  Even so, it is not a hard skill
to learn.
One can also attach sponsons or outriggers to add a measure of safety and security to your initial efforts.  However, these add-ons are not very portable, interfere with the maneuverability of the canoe, and are only necessary if one’s sense of balance is not particularly good.  Purchasing or building
these appertenances is a personal call.  Look in the classified section of Paddler or Canoe and Kayak magazine for info on these products. As to finding a used boat.  Good luck.  Good quality used canoes are snapped up pretty quickly and are hard to find. One suggestion that might pan out is your local canoe club.  Members
are always buying and swapping.  Call the American Canoe Assoc.
member club that is closest to you to get info.  Their web address
is: http://www.aca-paddler.org/
Dave Hadden, Owner
Vision Canoes
http://www.digisys.net/vision — Posted using Reference.COM                         http://www.reference.com Browse, Search and Post         Usenet and Mailing list Archive and Catalog. InReference, Inc. accepts no responsibility for the content of this posting.

Response:

Question:

Those of you who have more mobility than mere wading but without a Mako, Whaler, or Hewes: what is your preferred way of getting away from shore and why? Darren Lew NYC

Response:

If you don’t have a boat and fish during daylight hours, consider renting a skiff.  Long Island has a number of fishing stations that do so.  The shallow-draft boats they feature would be fine for fly casting–stable with shallow-water capability.

Response:

<<Those of you who have more mobility than mere wading but without a Mako, Whaler, or Hewes: what is your preferred way of getting away from shore and why? I am currently strictly a wading FFer, but my next toy will be a kayak. There is a whole new breed of ocean-going kayaks, some which are sort of hybridized canoes with open cockpits, some with a bit more beam for stability. I’m told that a good sized striper can give the kayaker a "Nantucket Sleighride". If anyone wishes to advance me $700 – $1,000 I will be pleased to report in more detail on the effectiveness of the craft.

Response:

Those of you who have more mobility than mere wading but without a Mako, Whaler, or Hewes: what is your preferred way of getting away from shore and why? Darren Lew NYC

Depends. If we’re talking back bay low light. Canoe. Almost anywhere else a small (Carolina skiff ?) GLASS boat (12-14 ft) with a Honda engine. I have never tried a kayak. Perhaps it would be great in the surf ? I prefer glass to tin for less noise, better long term durabilty and more inertia for waves to overcome. "The true angler is always content to fish alone" Brian Di Carlo

Response:

I get around Gardnier’s bay in a poke boat which is a cross ,between a Kayak and a canoe, but more to the kayak side of things. Its great becauuse its so portable, but very hard to fish from. You can’t even kneel in a  kayak and that makes it tough. If you’re using it to get from one flat to another then its good, but not too swift as a fishing platofrm itself. Ira Clair

Response:

Question:

I’m going to try fly fishing for the first time this year.  I’ve been fishing with traditional spinning tackle for 30 years but finally am going to take the plunge.  I recieved a Berkley Onyx Select #6/7 8′6" graphite rod as a Christmas gift but yet have to purchace a reel, lines, leader backing etc..  Primarily since most of the fishing in my area is in lakes I’d like any suggestions as what might be a good way to start.  I’d like to get something suitable to the rod.  Rainbow trout, smallmouth bass, goldeye and panfish would be my target species primarily.  My budget isn’t large but I’d like to put more emphasis on a good line and not on the reel.  Basically the best bang for the buck. I’m open to all suggestions from the vast experience of you seasoned fly fisherman.                         Thanks in advance,                         Thane Maddaford                         Manitoba, Canada

Response:

<snip  My budget isn’t large but I’d like to put more emphasis on a good line and not on the reel.  Basically the best bang for the buck.

<snip Hi Thane, Sounds like the rod you have will be fine for the lake fishing you describe. You will probably want to have at least two fly lines so that you can effectively fish varying depths. You will definitely want a floating line first – this goes without saying. As for brand, take your pick…SA or Cortland, they’re both excellent. The tougher question would be which type of sinking line you need. We typically recommend full-sinking as opposed to sink-tip lines in lakes, as the full-sink will allow you to more successfully detect subtle takes. I’m going to suggest a Type II Uniform Sink from Scientific Anglers. A #II sink rate is relatively slow which will allow you to fish in the kind of waters most fly fishers love best – shallow and weedy with lots-o’-bugs. If you do need the line to reach greater depths, simply wait longer before moving the fly. You won’t get in as many casts in a day, but at least you have some versatility built-in. If you do eventually go to a system with more sinking lines, a common list might be as follows: Floater Intermediate Type II Type IV Another line we really like is the new "Stillwater" line from SA. It is essentially a 90′ leader. It is a mono-core line which is coated with SA’s proprietary "slime-line" coating. It is a clear line that sinks at a rate somewhere between an intermediate and a type II. This is about the only sinking line I use anymore (unless I’m dredging a very deep lake for some reason). It is awesome along the weed beds during a damsel emergence! As for the reel…there’s lots in the sub $100 category – they seem to get better every year. Orvis, SA, Cortland, etc. etc… I hope this helps,   Alan.   Alan Barnard   Kiene’s Fly Shop   Sacramento, Ca.   WWW Fly Tyer:   http://www.ns.net/~barnard

Response:

If you really want `bang for the buck’ and are starting out, get a Cortland 333 flyline and their basic Rimfly or Crown II reel. (I think these run about $35-$40)  If you want to spend a little more on the reel, their LTD with the disc drag is a great value at about $70.  There’s a lot of stuff out there, but they have a good reputation and offer good values.

Response:

I have not tried you rod. Suggest you take it into a good flyshop and have them fit it with line and reel.  You will probably need a full floating line and some form of sinking line; but ask the local experts.

Response:

Question:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – hi,    i recently found a "New in Box" fly rod.  I’m sure that someone on this news feed can provide some information for me (at least I hope so). It is a bamboo flyrod made by James Heddon’s Sons in Dowagiac, Michigan. Model T170, 6 1/2′ in length.  It says Heddon Deluxe on the shaft, with a number 4 – 3 on the balsa cork handle.  It is a two piece rod with the obligatory aluminum traveling tube. Anyone have an idea of when it might have been made? Anyone every heard of James Heddon’s Sons?  I’ve also got about 200 hundred of their big game lures (sure don’t look like flys to me . Are they still in existence?  I wouldn’t mind knowing when it was sold (I’m guessing in the 40’s to 50’s.), and what it’s good for. I found the rod & equipment in the garage of a recently deceased relative.  He was quite the sportsman.  This particular rod was never used (or even had a reel attached – the shipping notice is still attached), and looks like a nice one.  I now have part of the equipment needed to finally break into fly fishing (of course, what I should do is unload all of this stuff & buy my wife a new washer/dryer, but i’m not too stupid). Any information would be helpful, Thanks, Larry —          "There is NO kill like a guns kill"        CMDR. W. Driscoll, USNR Code 5585                             (202)767-3040  

Although the Heddon Company is still in operation, I expect they stopped making split cane rods many years ago.  Off-hand I would guess your rod was made in the mid 1960s.  I think the 4-3 you mention refers to suggested size of line.  The earlier HDH, HCH, IFI type of line designation was replaced by the number in the ’60s.  Shorter rods were more in fashion a bit later too. Heddon was a good solid production company.  Its rods were not high end custom products, like Garrisons, Dickersons, and Paynes. Is there an extra tip? Heddons, IMHO, should be worth $100 to $200.  There are some oddball collectors who have paid a bit more.  I believe a President model (gold fittings) once brought a thousand.  Your rod is not a president model, but it is in a desirable short size, and if condition is pristine as you say, it could bring a bit more.  With two tips, it could sell RETAIL for even $400-500 (quite optimistically speaking).  OTOH, a dealer would pay you about half of what he thought he could sell it for. Why not keep it and fish with it?  You can pay $400-500  for a fancy graphite fly rod today. I’d rather use an old Heddon. Dave

Response:

hi,         i recently found a "New in Box" fly rod.  I’m sure that someone on this news feed can provide some information for me (at least I hope so). It is a bamboo flyrod made by James Heddon’s Sons in Dowagiac, Michigan. Model T170, 6 1/2′ in length.  It says Heddon Deluxe on the shaft, with a number 4 – 3 on the balsa cork handle.  It is a two piece rod with the obligatory aluminum traveling tube. Anyone have an idea of when it might have been made? Anyone every heard of James Heddon’s Sons?  I’ve also got about 200 hundred of their big game lures (sure don’t look like flys to me . Are they still in existence?  I wouldn’t mind knowing when it was sold (I’m guessing in the 40’s to 50’s.), and what it’s good for. I found the rod & equipment in the garage of a recently deceased relative.  He was quite the sportsman.  This particular rod was never used (or even had a reel attached – the shipping notice is still attached), and looks like a nice one.  I now have part of the equipment needed to finally break into fly fishing (of course, what I should do is unload all of this stuff & buy my wife a new washer/dryer, but i’m not too stupid). Any information would be helpful, Thanks, Larry —           "There is NO kill like a guns kill"    CMDR. W. Driscoll, USNR Code 5585                                 (202)767-3040  

Response:

Question:

I just would like to see names of rivers, lakes included in some of this mail.  … I just am tired of this attitude of hiding even the name of the place.  Yes, you are right in that you can get pretty close from the description, but then why not just tell the name outright.

Names of rivers, dates, and specific "how, when and where" information is just what the magazine editors want too. Thank god they don’t get it, most of the time. The late Norman Strung, of Field and Stream, or Outdoor Life…I’m not sure which one… made a living out of giving secrets away. He was a Bozeman Montana area writer who had a lot of friends. There were a lot of people who didn’t like him very much too. Especially those who still had secrets they wanted to keep….fishing holes they didn’t want overrun. Secrets are for sharing with close friends. Not for broadcast news to the whole universe. —

Response:

I just would like to see names of rivers, lakes included in some of this mail.  … I just am tired of this attitude of hiding even the name of the place.  Yes, you are right in that you can get pretty close from the description, but then why not just tell the name outright.   Very few will make this arduous journey.

As a general rule, the smaller or more fragile a fishery is, the more reluctant I am to draw large-scale attention to it.  There are several reasons for my attitude: 1. Probably everyone has that one special place, a slice of heaven they    consider their own, that they would prefer keep secret.  If someone    works hard to discover such a place, and takes a personal interest in    its long term health, more power to them; and the right to keep it    a secret should be their’s – they deserve it. 2. Small fisheries, especially small creeks and small lakes (~15 acres)    can be severely impacted by sudden intense fishing pressure.  I’m    not concerned about telling everyone that the Siletz River has great    searun cutthroat and steelhead fishing.  It’s so damn big, it takes    years to figure out a few good holes.  Small waters on the other hand    are a different story.    I’ll add that "arduous" journeys or remote places do *not* guarantee    protection.  Heck, those are the places I’m attracted to, and    everyone else I know. 3. People who draw large-scale attention to secret fishing spots they’re    told about tend to be frowned upon.  If Wayne for example was told    about the lake in question by someone else, it’s wrong and certainly    awkard for Wayne to be expected to tell all for our benefit. 4. There’s more to fishing than being told which water to hit, which    fly to use, which hole to cast in, etc.   Half the fun should be    figuring it out for yourself. Thomas Gilg

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I just would like to see names of rivers, lakes included in some of this mail.  … I just am tired of this attitude of hiding even the name of the place.  Yes, you are right in that you can get pretty close from the description, but then why not just tell the name outright.   Names of rivers, dates, and specific "how, when and where" information is just what the magazine editors want too. Thank god they don’t get it, most of the time. The late Norman Strung, of Field and Stream, or Outdoor Life…I’m not sure which one… made a living out of giving secrets away. He was a Bozeman Montana area writer who had a lot of friends. There were a lot of people who didn’t like him very much too. Especially those who still had secrets they wanted to keep….fishing holes they didn’t want overrun. Secrets are for sharing with close friends. Not for broadcast news to the whole universe. —

I think it’s upto the person who knows to tell if he wants to or not. I know I spend a fair bit of time spotting  pools/areas to fish and there are others who do the same. I wouldn’t want the place I’m fishing to be on some fishing show or the local newspaper because it brings out alot of people who wouldn`t come otherwise! I’m still pissed off at that Canadian Sportsfishing show where the two idiots (Henry and Italo) named the creek on a steelhead show. They caught fish after fish but didn’t tell anyone that they were fishing a private land area that the general public has no access to and they fished it the one year where they was a huge late run. There were so many people at the public areas with very few fish. It has taken about 4 years for the crowd to go away because they didn’t catch anything at all. If I ever see them out fishing one day, I’m going to give them a piece of my mind!!!!

Response: