Question:

Mike The standard I use is how do my flies compare to commercially tired ones in trout getting . They do just as well . Lou – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I’ve never seen any fly patterns that "cheat" like that but the trout, who are  the ultimate judges of such things, don’t seen to mind my shortcuts and take my flies. Am I breaking some unwritten law? I’m not a tier, myself, but it seems to me that it doesn’t matter. You tie flies, and the trout eat them. If there’s a problem, I fail to see it. — "Armchair warriors often fail, and we’ve been  poisoned by these fairy tales" -Don Henley

Response:

The standard I use is how do my flies compare to commercially tired ones in trout getting . They do just as well .

Lord have mercy, Lou!  If that was my standard, I’d be too damn depressed to carry on.  I compare to the bare hook.  My flies almost always do better than a bare hook. JR

Response:

John LOL Lou

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – The standard I use is how do my flies compare to commercially tired ones in trout getting . They do just as well . Lord have mercy, Lou!  If that was my standard, I’d be too damn depressed to carry on.  I compare to the bare hook.  My flies almost always do better than a bare hook. JR

Response:

The standard I use is how do my flies compare to commercially tired ones in trout getting . They do just as well .

Commercial flies are as a general rule of poor quality, and inferior effectiveness. There are doubtless considerable numbers of positive examples to the contrary, but I have not seen many of them. If your flies work, which they obviously do, then they are excellent.  You might well be able to improve on them if you give the matter some thought, but comparing them to commercial flies, or various "standards" is not likely to be of much help in this endeavour, apart from using them as negative examples, or for your general edification. TL MC

Response:

Mike Here to learn and maybe share. I’m new to fly tying and realize that I have allot to learn.  For now I’m just finding my way… Lou

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – The standard I use is how do my flies compare to commercially tired ones in trout getting . They do just as well . Commercial flies are as a general rule of poor quality, and inferior effectiveness. There are doubtless considerable numbers of positive examples to the contrary, but I have not seen many of them. If your flies work, which they obviously do, then they are excellent.  You might well be able to improve on them if you give the matter some thought, but comparing them to commercial flies, or various "standards" is not likely to be of much help in this endeavour, apart from using them as negative examples, or for your general edification. TL MC

Response:

Mike Here to learn and maybe share. I’m new to fly tying and realize that I have allot to learn.  For now I’m just finding my way… Lou

Exactly why we are all here, and of course to enjoy ourselves. If you have questions, ask away. Somebody on here will invariably know the answer, or even several.  Just as long as you are not going to Antarctica fishing for killer whales, and need info on the best methods and flies! TL MC

Response:

Mike Hiya Most of my fishing is close to home. I’m up on the Keeweenaw Peninsula and mostly fly fish  small rivers and  for trout. Lou

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Mike Here to learn and maybe share. I’m new to fly tying and realize that I have allot to learn.  For now I’m just finding my way… Lou Exactly why we are all here, and of course to enjoy ourselves. If you have questions, ask away. Somebody on here will invariably know the answer, or even several.  Just as long as you are not going to Antarctica fishing for killer whales, and need info on the best methods and flies! TL MC

Response:

Mike Hiya Most of my fishing is close to home. I’m up on the Keeweenaw Peninsula and mostly fly fish  small rivers and  for trout. Lou

I know nothing at all about it, I have never heard the name, and I would not have known it even existed but for your post. Rest assured, somebody here will either know it, or know of it, and will be able and willing to assist if necessary. As a "newbie", you may, along with some others, be rather confused at the goings-on on here at present. Just ignore them, all things must pass.  It will not affect your participation in th

Question:

<snipped Vittorio, Do you have any craft or needle point stores in your area?  I have found some extra small beads this way.  I just did a search with google.com and found these sites: http://www.netway.com/~flyshop/catalog/beads.htm http://www.kman.com/Catalog/Page87/Page87.htm http://www.mwflytying.com/new_stuff/ns_materials.html Hope this helps. bc. — Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy. -Benjamin Franklin I don’t care who you are, you are not walking on the water while I’m fishing.

Response:

Hi folks. I am looking for a source of tiny metal (NOT glass) beads to tie size 20-24 bead head flies.  I picked up a few BW-WD40 size 22 in Montana this summer and they seem to work around here too ! Most beads I found around are too large for such small hooks. However, the fly shop in MT must have found their beads somewhere. Any suggestion ? I posted this query to ROFFT, and someone there suggested to post it here too, as many knowledgeable anglers post here but not on ROFFT. Cheers, -Vittorio

Response:

Hi folks. I am looking for a source of tiny metal (NOT glass) beads to tie size 20-24 bead head flies.  I picked up a few BW-WD40 size 22 in Montana this summer and they seem to work around here too ! Most beads I found around are too large for such small hooks. However, the fly shop in MT must have found their beads somewhere. Any suggestion ?

ones in several types (brass, lead, ect) or try Then there is always National Feathercraft in St. Louis but I won’t recommend em. <g — Wayne Knight Expert in creating tailing loops and windknots Otherwise Fishless in Kansas Before you buy.

Response:

Although you specified not glass. There are indeed quite a number of metallised glass beads available in a fair range of sizes.  For very small flies I have not been able to find anything as good as these in metal.  They have a number of advantages I think, They do not tarnish, they are available in a range of metallic colours, and they certainly provide enough weight on small flies. Durability does not seem to be a problem, as though I broke a few when putting them on the hooks, none have so far broken under actual fishing conditions. They are available at a lot of places, and they are cheap compared to metal beads. TL MC — "Where fishing is concerned, most anglers are basically manic excessives" http://www.mikeconnor.de – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Hi folks. I am looking for a source of tiny metal (NOT glass) beads to tie size 20-24 bead head flies.  I picked up a few BW-WD40 size 22 in Montana this summer and they seem to work around here too ! Most beads I found around are too large for such small hooks. However, the fly shop in MT must have found their beads somewhere. Any suggestion ? I posted this query to ROFFT, and someone there suggested to post it here too, as many knowledgeable anglers post here but not on ROFFT. Cheers, -Vittorio

Response:

Question:

Our Sir Louie goes by many handles but he just acquied a new one today – "Captain Carp."  We *were*supposed to be steelhead fishing but carp proved to be a bigger attraction. He caught him on a #12 stonefly at the base of the dam in Caledonia. Peter

Response:

Yes and Joe F. caught a small mouth by the tail while salmon fishing on friday, Opppps oh no it’s a sucker ( 12" sucker ) Vern

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Our Sir Louie goes by many handles but he just acquied a new one today – "Captain Carp."  We *were*supposed to be steelhead fishing but carp proved to be a bigger attraction. He caught him on a #12 stonefly at the base of the dam in Caledonia. Peter

Response:

Yes and Joe F. caught a small mouth by the tail while salmon fishing on friday, Opppps oh no it’s a sucker ( 12" sucker )

Yep, it’s true.   Not that I could deny it, since I caught it just updtream of the bridge in front of a dozen witnesses.  (Just don’t start calling me "Captain Sucker".)   Joe F. (Good, now I can leave that out of my trip report.)

Response:

the bridge in front of a dozen witnesses.  (Just don’t start calling me "Captain Sucker".)   Joe F. (Good, now I can leave that out of my trip report.)

Since this won’t be part of the trip report we just hafta ask the questions here! What kinda fly were you using while sucker fishing? Were you sucker fishing down and across, upstream-dead-drift, downstream with a twitching retrieve? What’s a sucker fishing license cost in NY?  Where are the best waters to sucker fish?!  Do you know America’s best sucker fishing rivers? And, lastly, for those who are sure to ask.  What weight sucker fishing rod were you using?  What is the best sucker fishing line? What reel do you recommend for sucker fishing? — Wayne (just helping you to keep it all in one bucket, Joe!) To fish is human….To release Divine! Before you buy.

Response:

Question:

Thank you Azure. I hope you are well, spike – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Hi Noen; You are welcome. A) I’m scared of Alan. B) He is nice to the new ppl like you. C) He is nice to the ca girls. D) Or It’s because he has been here about 3 years longer that you. I have seen extraordinary acts of kindness from him, and has earned certain rights, that as a boundary i don’t allow all ppl to have. In short he is pretty fly for a white guy. He has that punk ethos happening, i respect that. With love, spike But really the number one reason, is the way he flames ppl that ask stupid questions or when a new person thinks they have things all figured out, and they get a post from Alan. (uproarious giggles) Spike, you have a hilarious way of hitting the nail right on the head. azure drop ‘trou’ to reply — For more information about this posting service, contact: If you want an anonymous account, visit our sign-up page: http://asarian-host.org/emailform.html

Response:

Hi Colin; Yikes beats me. Maybe your news reader doesn’t like doing it. For some reason, it doesn’t work with the new icq proper either. Try it with a word app, like notepad, if it does, it’s that agent warez, you are using. It’s the right-hand number pad you are using right? I’m good, thank you, it’s nice you are back. How is life? You are building now? Roofing and framing? Hey if you need a garage door(s) i’ll tell you how it get it very cheap, and if the fishing is as good as i hear, in that area, i’ll hang it for free. Are your finger nails that pretty purple color, framers always have? Take care and use a level and square, spike – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – 0233=

Question:

Uh-Oh…I think someone just turned on the heater it’s starting to get hot in here….. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – To all sponsoring and/or midwiving the BASTARD: The news surrounding the birth of the BASTARD is nothing short of fantastic. As a fan of split-cane rods, I salute these efforts and think everyone should have the chance to own and fish a properly tooled and crafted cane rod.  So what about the BASTARD?  Does anyone out there really think that a split-cane rod can be produced for $300???!!!  HELLO?!  ARE WE ALL THAT DELUDED??!!?? Cane hex blanks alone wholesale for over $200 and quadrates are double that. But the BASTARDS will be made from cheap cane in a no-nonsense fashion, as if a BLANK has any nonsense. Cheap cane is cheap because it is covered either with water marks or grower’s marks.  I know, I know…the BASTARD aesthetic is not concerned with aesthetics.  But grower’s marks typically go through the enamel and sever the power bundles.  Yes, this effects casting, noticeably.  Really.  Cane costs could be reduced by making one-tip rods, but that cuts the life of the BASTARD in half. What about the tapers?  Initially, it would be easy enough to sell only one taper/length in each line weight; there are plenty of tapers out on the web. But soon customers won’t be so patient.  You’ll need more.  That means taking the time to reset you planing forms and triple-check the depth.  Then you’ll have to test out guide spacing on each different taper.  Time, time. What about tooling?  To put up with the rigors of production, you’ll have to get decent tooling.  Your cheapest tools will be your planing forms (~$800 for one that will last) and planes (at least four; as much as you want them to be, but don’t skimp on the blades).  Don’t forget your beveler and binder which together go for the price of a year’s tuition at an Ivy-league school.  A good depth guage is a car payment.  And don’t forget your wrapper, whipping thread, sock, tube…  To keep costs down I guess you don’t have to worry about the finish, just use tung-oil.  Then you don’t need varnish, dip-tanks, color-preserver, or any of that.  But tung-oil rods *often* won’t last a half of a decade. What about hardware?  Snakes and tip-tops are no big deal, but forget about the agate (or even agatine) stripper.  If you find a good agate stripper for less than $30, then you haven’t found agate. (Doesn’t sound like much, but that’s already 10% of your rod.)  To keep costs down, what’s wrong with SiC? Hook-keepers?  Anyone who’s read Garrison knows that American cane rod-makers don’t use hook-keepers.  It’s called a stripping guide. Yup.  Saved money there.  Reel seats?  Forget fancy, how about alder?  Don’t even get me started on ferrules. If you can somehow get all the above costs diffused through an enormous production run so that they retail for under $500, you still haven’t paid you labor.  Even if it’s a labor force of one, Mr. G, he’ll need to eat once in a while.  Hobbyists can finish a cane rod in about 40-50 man-hours.  Custom rods from the 30 or so who make cane rods for a living (full-time) take about 80-100 man-hours.  These folks probably want to charge a little more than minimum wage. There are reasons that cane rods cost as much as they do, and there are reasons that the many attempts to produce low-cost cane rods in the last 30 years have failed.  What you get in a properly made and well-crafted cane rod is not only a superior fishing instrument, but a piece of American history. The cane-rod industry is one of the last in this country that consists of independent artisans who apprentice under masters and continue to improve upon the tradition.  If you read up on the history of cane-rods you’ll notice that even though split-cane and greenheart originated in the UK, the modern tradition of split-cane rods is American and any reputable rod-maker can trace his apprenticeship back to a 19th century master.  Yes, they still cost a lot, but if you ever talk to a full-time rod-maker (at the FFF or somewhere) you’ll see that no one gets rich making rods, they do because they love it. And finally…Is there a real difference between cane and graphite or glass? Well, is there a difference between an Aston-Martin and a Geo?  or is there a difference between Night Train and the Famous Grouse?  Both cars will get you where you want to go and both drinks will eventually get you drunk, but I guess it depends on how you want to get there.  Maybe a better analogy is shaving with garden-shears or a straight razor.  One is clumsy and potentially painful and the other, with a little practice, is an instrument of precision and tradition that is a pleasure to use and surpasses all. If you decide to get a split-cane rod, get the right one for the right reasons.  Don’t get any old BASTARD because it is cheap.  Perhaps the BASTARD will be the rod that will change the ff-ing world.  Perhaps not.  But at least talk to a cane rod-maker (check out the cane Rodmakers page at http://home1.gte.net/jfoster/index.htm) to see what kind of rod they can make you and what their rods can do over a production rod. Oh, but I doubt any of of those rodmakers would be able to seel you a Marryat reel.  Tough luck. The Tonkin Kid

Response:

To all sponsoring and/or midwiving the BASTARD:

and George began his reply: ______ That is me, "tonkin kid".  Talk to me.  I’m the man.  I’m the uno numeruno Bastard you need to address yourself too.  Now then?  You were saying?

(remainder of repartee snipped, in my never-ceasing attempt to save band-width) Go get’em George.  We can’t have these blithering naysayers ruining our fun. Mark Faulkner

Response:

‘kid,’ is licking his wounds.  He will heal though and will come back to try to learn  more about us. O.G.O

Response:

Tonkin Kid, I think you should change your name to "The Foolium Kid". 1. Do you know what the price of a bundle of Tonkin cane is. 2. Do you know the average number of good culms in a bundle of Tonkin cane? 3. Do you know how many rods with extra tips can be built with one culm? 4. Do you know how many strips a man using power tools can plain in a day? 5. Do you know how many blanks one man can finish in a day? 4. Do you know what the mark up is on a bamboo rod? I don’t know where you buy your hardware and materials but you won’t ever find me there.  I have seen figures just like yours trying to justify the cost of graphite rods also, but you should peddle your foolium elsewhere, I am not in the market. Ernie Harrison

Response:

To all sponsoring and/or midwiving the BASTARD: The news surrounding the birth of the BASTARD is nothing short of fantastic. As a fan of split-cane rods, I salute these efforts and think everyone should have the chance to own and fish a properly tooled and crafted cane rod.  So what about the BASTARD?  Does anyone out there really think that a split-cane rod can be produced for $300???!!!  HELLO?!  ARE WE ALL THAT DELUDED??!!?? Cane hex blanks alone wholesale for over $200 and quadrates are double that. But the BASTARDS will be made from cheap cane in a no-nonsense fashion, as if a BLANK has any nonsense.   Cheap cane is cheap because it is covered either with water marks or grower’s marks.  I know, I know…the BASTARD aesthetic is not concerned with aesthetics.  But grower’s marks typically go through the enamel and sever the power bundles.  Yes, this effects casting, noticeably.  Really.  Cane costs could be reduced by making one-tip rods, but that cuts the life of the BASTARD in half. What about the tapers?  Initially, it would be easy enough to sell only one taper/length in each line weight; there are plenty of tapers out on the web. But soon customers won’t be so patient.  You’ll need more.  That means taking the time to reset you planing forms and triple-check the depth.  Then you’ll have to test out guide spacing on each different taper.  Time, time. What about tooling?  To put up with the rigors of production, you’ll have to get decent tooling.  Your cheapest tools will be your planing forms (~$800 for one that will last) and planes (at least four; as much as you want them to be, but don’t skimp on the blades).  Don’t forget your beveler and binder which together go for the price of a year’s tuition at an Ivy-league school.  A good depth guage is a car payment.  And don’t forget your wrapper, whipping thread, sock, tube…  To keep costs down I guess you don’t have to worry about the finish, just use tung-oil.  Then you don’t need varnish, dip-tanks, color-preserver, or any of that.  But tung-oil rods *often* won’t last a half of a decade. What about hardware?  Snakes and tip-tops are no big deal, but forget about the agate (or even agatine) stripper.  If you find a good agate stripper for less than $30, then you haven’t found agate. (Doesn’t sound like much, but that’s already 10% of your rod.)  To keep costs down, what’s wrong with SiC? Hook-keepers?  Anyone who’s read Garrison knows that American cane rod-makers don’t use hook-keepers.  It’s called a stripping guide. Yup.  Saved money there.  Reel seats?  Forget fancy, how about alder?  Don’t even get me started on ferrules. If you can somehow get all the above costs diffused through an enormous production run so that they retail for under $500, you still haven’t paid you labor.  Even if it’s a labor force of one, Mr. G, he’ll need to eat once in a while.  Hobbyists can finish a cane rod in about 40-50 man-hours.  Custom rods from the 30 or so who make cane rods for a living (full-time) take about 80-100 man-hours.  These folks probably want to charge a little more than minimum wage. There are reasons that cane rods cost as much as they do, and there are reasons that the many attempts to produce low-cost cane rods in the last 30 years have failed.  What you get in a properly made and well-crafted cane rod is not only a superior fishing instrument, but a piece of American history. The cane-rod industry is one of the last in this country that consists of independent artisans who apprentice under masters and continue to improve upon the tradition.  If you read up on the history of cane-rods you’ll notice that even though split-cane and greenheart originated in the UK, the modern tradition of split-cane rods is American and any reputable rod-maker can trace his apprenticeship back to a 19th century master.  Yes, they still cost a lot, but if you ever talk to a full-time rod-maker (at the FFF or somewhere) you’ll see that no one gets rich making rods, they do because they love it. And finally…Is there a real difference between cane and graphite or glass? Well, is there a difference between an Aston-Martin and a Geo?  or is there a difference between Night Train and the Famous Grouse?  Both cars will get you where you want to go and both drinks will eventually get you drunk, but I guess it depends on how you want to get there.  Maybe a better analogy is shaving with garden-shears or a straight razor.  One is clumsy and potentially painful and the other, with a little practice, is an instrument of precision and tradition that is a pleasure to use and surpasses all. If you decide to get a split-cane rod, get the right one for the right reasons.  Don’t get any old BASTARD because it is cheap.  Perhaps the BASTARD will be the rod that will change the ff-ing world.  Perhaps not.  But at least talk to a cane rod-maker (check out the cane Rodmakers page at http://home1.gte.net/jfoster/index.htm) to see what kind of rod they can make you and what their rods can do over a production rod. Oh, but I doubt any of of those rodmakers would be able to seel you a Marryat reel.  Tough luck.   The Tonkin Kid

Response:

To all sponsoring and/or midwiving the BASTARD:

______ That is me, "tonkin kid".  Talk to me.  I’m the man.  I’m the uno numeruno Bastard you need to address yourself too.  Now then?  You were saying? Oh?  By the way – Refer to me from now on as "O.G.O." The news surrounding the birth of the BASTARD is nothing short of fantastic.

As a fan of split-cane rods, I salute these efforts and think everyone should have the chance to own and fish a properly tooled and crafted cane rod.  So what about the BASTARD?

dense quality Imported Just For this bastard. Does anyone out there really think that a split-cane rod can be produced for $300???!!!

HELLO?!  ARE WE ALL THAT DELUDED??!!??

Cane hex blanks alone wholesale for over $200 and quadrates are double that.

But the BASTARDS will be made from cheap cane in a no-nonsense fashion, as if a BLANK has any nonsense.

more careful on who you’re talking too here ‘tonkin kid’.  Is that it?  "Tonkin Kid?"  Are you saying you have the market cornered on cheap bamboo?  Sorry.  We don’t want any. Cheap cane is cheap because it is covered either with water marks or grower’s marks.  I know, I know…the BASTARD aesthetic is not concerned with aesthetics.

BASTARD BAMBOO FLY ROD.  This fly fishing world is ready for a Beautiful Bastard – and this is it.  In fact, you’re beginning to qualify for one. But grower’s marks typically go through the enamel and sever the power bundles.  Yes, this effects casting, noticeably.  Really.  Cane costs could be reduced by making one-tip rods, but that cuts the life of the BASTARD in half.

equate your kind of foolishness with a high quality BASTARD FLY ROD.  "Don’t Tread On Me Dude"  Just might become a Bastard Model.  Thank goodness, nothing you’ve said so far applies to a BASTARD FLY ROD.  "Half Life," looks more promising to the "tonkin kid," buddy.  Where do you get off making such outlandish statements and lies?  Do you work for Bill Clinton? What about the tapers?

Initially, it would be easy enough to sell only one taper/length in each line weight; there are plenty of tapers out on the web.

But soon customers won’t be so patient.

You’ll need more.  That means taking the time to reset you planing forms and triple-check the depth.  Then you’ll have to test out guide spacing on each different taper.  Time, time.

BASTARD BAMBOO FLY ROD.  Like I said.  I’m rich. What about tooling?  To put up with the rigors of production, you’ll have to get decent tooling.

tooling is the best in the world.  Do you want to come and work for me? Your cheapest tools will be your planing forms (~$800 for one that will last) and planes (at least four; as much as you want them to be, but don’t skimp on the blades).  Don’t forget your beveler and binder which together go for the price of a year’s tuition at an Ivy-league school.  A good depth guage is a car payment.  And don’t forget your wrapper, whipping thread, sock, tube…  To keep costs down I guess you don’t have to worry about the finish, just use tung-oil.  Then you don’t need varnish, dip-tanks, color-preserver, or any of that.  But tung-oil rods *often* won’t last a half of a decade.

shop.  Everything is free except raw materials.  You need to get your planing forms from someone that doesn’t screw you all the time, kid.  It was "kid" – right? What about hardware?  Snakes and tip-tops are no big deal, but forget about the agate (or even agatine) stripper.  If you find a good agate stripper for less than $30, then you haven’t found agate. (Doesn’t sound like much, but that’s already 10% of your rod.)  To keep costs down, what’s wrong with SiC? Hook-keepers?  Anyone who’s read Garrison knows that American cane rod-makers don’t use hook-keepers.  It’s called a stripping guide. Yup.  Saved money there.  Reel seats?  Forget fancy, how about alder?  Don’t even get me started on ferrules.

have too but, I will admit I’d rather just buy them ready made.  You’re down to nickle/dime stuff.  Hardware.  No mystery in hardware.  If we can’t buy it at a price that is fair, we will make it right here. Kid, you just don’t know what the hell  you’re talking about.  If we can build it cheaper, guess what the choice is going to be? If you can somehow get all the above costs diffused through an enormous production run so that they retail for under $500, you still haven’t paid you labor.  Even if it’s a labor force of one, Mr. G, he’ll need to eat once in a while.  Hobbyists can finish a cane rod in about 40-50 man-hours.  Custom rods from the 30 or so who make cane rods for a living (full-time) take about 80-100 man-hours.  These folks probably want to charge a little more than minimum wage.

person operation.  Automation on as much as is possible is guaranteed.  Those ‘full time’ rod makers have to cut the vacations and coffee breaks pal. I just love it when all these losers keep equating how others should run their businesses.  Has anyone latched onto that yet?  "Welllllllll?"  They think.  If it takes ME 100 hours to make a bamboo fly rod, that means its going to take you 100 hours too." wrong! There are reasons that cane rods cost as much as they do, and there are reasons that the many attempts to produce low-cost cane rods in the last 30 years have failed.  What you get in a properly made and well-crafted cane rod is not only a superior fishing instrument, but a piece of American history. The cane-rod industry is one of the last in this country that consists of independent artisans who apprentice under masters and continue to improve upon the tradition.  If you read up on the history of cane-rods you’ll notice that even though split-cane and greenheart originated in the UK, the modern tradition of split-cane rods is American and any reputable rod-maker can trace his apprenticeship back to a 19th century master.  Yes, they still cost a lot, but if you ever talk to a full-time rod-maker (at the FFF or somewhere) you’ll see that no one gets rich making rods, they do because they love it.

BASTARDS. And finally…Is there a real difference between cane and graphite or glass?

_______Well, gee?  I don’t know?  Is there a difference between land and water? The moon and the sun?  Your wife as compared to mine?  Golfing in the middle of a street and a fairway?  You tell us kid.  This is a heavy question. Well, is there a difference between an Aston-Martin and a Geo?  or is there a difference between Night Train and the Famous Grouse?  Both cars will get you where you want to go and both drinks will eventually get you drunk, but I guess it depends on how you want to get there.  Maybe a better analogy is shaving with garden-shears or a straight razor.  One is clumsy and potentially painful and the other, with a little practice, is an instrument of precision and tradition that is a pleasure to use and surpasses all.

qualified.  Park it dude.  Your engine is racing but your tires are standing still.  All this has NOTHING to do with   BASTARD FLY RODS.  You have not one, single, base point to stand on.  You are just (to be perfectly frank) a baseless opinion.  A noise.  A silent fart in church.  You are way off base on nearly everything.  But!  That is okay.  We get them like you here all the time.  We just need to soften you up a little and get you drunk a time or two.  We might even teach you how to be a success.  Here, anything is possible.  Even for you kid. If you decide to get a split-cane rod, get the right one for the right reasons.  Don’t get any old BASTARD because it is cheap.

pine tree all the time?  Just LISTEN to yourself!  Quote:  "Don’t get any old BASTARD because it is cheap."  Well, there are no other BASTARDS and these are not old.  Right away, you make yourself out an idiot of principle, ‘kid’. This also isn’t ANY old BASTARD.  That is another mistake.  It is my BASTARD FLY ROD COMPANY and you have NO RIGHT to say or ASSUME the things you’re doing here . . . kid. (God, I love this place!) Perhaps the BASTARD

‘hope’ for ‘the kid.’  What do you guys think?  Is he or is not ‘the kid’ qualifying as a real bastard who should own a bastard? will be the rod that will change the ff-ing world.

life.  How do we know?  Because you’re HERE!  It is everyone’s pleasure to meet a cynic such as  yourself.  You

… read more »

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Question:

As a keen fly fisherman in the UK my knowledge of US river’s is very limited. I have been offered the chance to join a trip to North Conway in New Hampshire sometime around June ‘98. The only river that I know to be close by is the Saco. Can anyone tell me :- Is there any trout in it and can they be caught? How is it best fished? What sort of tackle is required? Is there any other water’s (river or lake) near to N. Conway that are fished using the fly? Is there any other advise anyone can give me? Thanks in advance for any help. — Steve Patrick

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As a keen fly fisherman in the UK my knowledge of US river’s is very limited. I have been offered the chance to join a trip to North Conway in New Hampshire sometime around June ‘98. The only river that I know to be close by is the Saco. Can anyone tell me :- Is there any trout in it and can they be caught?

Depends on your skills… How is it best fished?

A flyrod is the most effective way to do this. What sort of tackle is required?

Depending on the water, but I would take a 3wt and a 5 or 6 wt. Is there any other water’s (river or lake) near to N. Conway that are fished using the fly?

You are in the beautiful White Mountain area with nearly thousands of streams, lakes, and ponds in one of the most beautiful areas of New Hampshire. Go to the flyshop in North Conway and ask the guys there, they can tell you where to go best and what hatches you can expect at that time of the year (they usually list the most popular rivers with their hatches on a board outside the store and will be pleased to tell you more if you buy a couple flies etc out of courtesy, the guys are very nice- I think they also guide). Within 30 min drive you find several nice ponds in the Frankonia Notch area, it’s good to have a belly boat there and you can catch beautiful brookies. South of where you are located you can find the Bearcamp which is a beauty that holds Brookes, Brows, and Rainbows. If you are driving up from Boston make shure you stop at the Merrimack (look for salmon) and the Neufound river (can’t remember the exit, but it’s right from I93- salmon and hugh trout) and very close to the White Mountains. Otherwise, stop at the Ranger station, they can give you tips for remote hike-in ponds, there is a National Forest Map with all the ponds in it, including some fly fishing only ponds. Amonoosuc River (sp?) at Twin Mountains is also a pretty place that holds big rainbows. Don’t forget the C&R stretch of the Ellis River. If you have more questions, just mail back. Thomas Is there any other advise anyone can give me? Thanks in advance for any help. — Steve Patrick

– Thomas Urbig

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Question:

Hey: I’m interested in doing some flyfishing in the Florida Keys next April. Can anybody give me recommendations on guides in that area for tapon and bonefish?  This is my first trip.

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Hey: I’m interested in doing some flyfishing in the Florida Keys next April. Can anybody give me recommendations on guides in that area for tapon and bonefish?  This is my first trip.

Hi Brian, This is a good time to book a guide for next spring. April/May/June is prime time. All the top guides have tackle for the day(s) you are with them. If you want to wade or rent a boat on your own then you need some tackle. I would call West and if he doesn’t have any days left he will know some other high quality guides in the Keys. He is considered in the top of his field and is also lots of fun to fish with. You can see him in the Billy Pate Tarpon fishing videos. As you can tell he is one of my heros.  . Bill Kiene Kiene’s Fly Shop Sacramento,CA,USA 800/4000FLY

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Question:

trying to access group

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I was born in wyoming and was taught to fish usin g bait casting methods.  My family bought me a fly tying outfit.  last night i tried to tie several flies using a BANTAM 1 fly tying kit from target.  I tried to follow autors directions to attach "wing" portion.  pictures were in black/white. hard to follow.  advice?

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I was born in wyoming and was taught to fish usin g bait casting methods.  My family bought me a fly tying outfit.  last night i tried to tie several flies using a BANTAM 1 fly tying kit from target.  I tried to follow autors directions to attach "wing" portion.  pictures were in black/white. hard to follow.  advice?

Go to your public library and check out several books on fly tying, read them and then keep trying until you get it right.  BTW the fish can’t care less if the fly is properly tied.  They are looking for food.   Anymore questions try the rec.outdoors.fishing.fly.tying newsgroup

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Question:

I’ve fished the Newport area several times, both from a boat and from shore.  Two suggestions: 1) contact The Saltwater Edge (Orvis dealer in Newport).  They are very helpful.  2) Get a copy of "Striper Moon" by J. Kenney Abrames.  It’s got a lot of Newport-area intelligence.  Good luck!

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I fish the Newport area often, what infor do you need?

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Do you know where abouts you plan on fishing?

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Try contacting The Saltwater Edge. http://www.saltwateredge.com

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 I have been scouting from Pawcatuck R. to Westport R. nothing yet. Any day now the fishing fleet should be picking them up in their offshore drift nets. I will check with them this week. rec. outdoors       outdoor adventure

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Plan to fly fish striped bass this spring in Newport,RI.Any pointer-advice?

Would be interested, too. Can you forward messages you get? Thanks in advance,                            Thomas

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Plan to fly fish striped bass this spring in Newport,RI.Any pointer-advice?

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Question:

These are great…very innovative, easy to use, and much safer than the conventional float tubes.  I’m not saying the conventionals are unsafe, but the Hobie is made of hard plastic pontoons that won’t puncture. They are also very comfortable and keep more of you out of the water.  Better back support than the conventional tubes, too.  The seat is sturdy and comfortable.  They look great, too!  Let me know if you have more questions.

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Has anyone had any experience with Hobie Float Cat kick boats? I am thinking of buying one and would appreciate comments. For those that don’t know… The Float Cat is a kick boat with rigid poly pontoons and aluminum frame. Thanks in advance.

I haven’t had any personal experience with the Hobie, but it raises the question:  why bother with rigid poly pontoons when you can have inflatable.  I recently purchased an 8′ kickboat made by Outcast and am extremely pleased with it.  It has PVC/polyester fabric tubes (25 oz bottoms/18 oz tops) with a clever 3 piece alumimum frame.  Whole thing breaks down to a *very* compact package and assembles in a couple of minutes (maybe 5 minutes w/ inflation).  Furthermore, fully assembled, it’s still light enough to easily transport and carry (probably 50#, with gear).  Rows beautifully – extremely fast and requires very little effort.   The main thing however is the hulls:  the PVC fabric, while rigid enough to support the frame, is also resilient enough to bounce off rocks, trees, etc.  And even if the outer hull material punctures, the air remains confined by the inner urethane bladder.  Rigid PVC is not very flexible.  I’m afraid that slamming a rock, particularly broadside could crack or hole a rigid hull (happens all the time with fiberglass drift boats).   There’s a reason inflatables dominate the river-running scene and it isn’t cost (a fully equipped 12′ raft runs about $4,000 these days): fact is their light weight and durability are nearly ideal for moving water.   -Wes Wes Neuenschwander Seattle, WA

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Has anyone had any experience with Hobie Float Cat kick boats? I am thinking of buying one and would appreciate comments. For those that don’t know… The Float Cat is a kick boat with rigid poly pontoons and aluminum frame. Thanks in advance. —  /// John Kleist, Colorado Climate Center, CSU, Fort Collins CO 80523   \ \        URL:http://ulysses.atmos.colostate.edu/~johnk/                ///

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Can I add to John Kliest’s request for information?  If anyone has experience using these pontoon boats on rivers, I would be interested in observations and comments.  My objective would be to use it in Montana on certain – emphasize certain – rivers to do my own floats.  On the other hand, I would prefer to live a bit longer than my current age, if only to fish, and thus am not inclined to take unecessary risks.  Thanks.                                     Mark Faulkner

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Can I add to John Kliest’s request for information?  If anyone has experience using these pontoon boats on rivers, I would be interested in observations and comments.  My objective would be to use it in Montana on certain – emphasize certain – rivers to do my own floats.  On the other hand, I would prefer to live a bit longer than my current age, if only to fish, and thus am not inclined to take unecessary risks.  Thanks.                                    Mark Faulkner

Hi Mark, My wife and I have been using pontoon boats in Montana for the past five years. Water Otter with a rowing systme is what we currently own however there are several very good pontoon crafts on the market. We use them on the Madison, Missouri, Big Horn, Yellowstone, Big Hole, Gallatin, etc. and love them. As in any craft on the water you need to be aware of your surroundings. Under water trees, rocks, etc. can be dangerous in any kind of a boat including the pontoon boat. I’ve only had one close call in the five years and it was my fault. I had driven all night to get to the Big Horn River and decided to fish anyway. You know how it is, escaping from corporate America for a few days. I fell a sleep while floating the river and run one the pontoons up on a partly submerged rock. The rock just about turned over the boat but fortunately did not. I certainly woke up. That was a close enough call. I banked the boat and slept for a couple of hours before continuing the float. Now that I’ve been downsized out of corporate America I live in Bozeman, Montana where I work as a guide. Usually I guide customers in my drift boat but do have several client who like fishing out of the pontoon craft. The craft is also great when guiding float tubing clients because I can navigate rapidly (and with little effort) between customers to assist/instruct, etc., even if the wind is blowing. And the wind blows often in Montana. I think you will enjoy a pontoon boat. I do not own a Buck Bag pontoon boat but have operated a friend’s boat and like it a lot. I understand from Dave Corcoran at the River’s Edge here in Bozeman that the Buck’s is the best buy for the money in his opinion. If you are interested I saw they had one of the new models in stock when I stopped by yesterday. For more information you can call them at 406-586-5373. Good luck and let me know how things work out for you regarding these great boats. Tight Lines Al Beatty BT’s Fly Fishing Products Bozeman, MT (96 catalog)

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