Question:

I have updated my site designed around collecting, fishing, and repair of bamboo and fiberglass fly rods. I have new articles, stories, photos, and information. The forum is a good source of information about the above topics, and there is a board to get a free appraisal as well as a board to list classic tackle that you have for sale or you wish to buy, which is also free. You can visit the site at  http://www.clarksrods.com Hope you enjoy the site. Regards Clark

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Nice site. Tom – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I have updated my site designed around collecting, fishing, and repair of bamboo and fiberglass fly rods. I have new articles, stories, photos, and information. The forum is a good source of information about the above topics, and there is a board to get a free appraisal as well as a board to list classic tackle that you have for sale or you wish to buy, which is also free. You can visit the site at  http://www.clarksrods.com Hope you enjoy the site. Regards Clark

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Now *that* is a nice site! Tom – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I have updated my site, added many new graphics, information, stories, improved the forum, and added some rods to the list that are for sale or trade. If you are interested in collecting, fishing, or repairing classic fly rods, you might be interested in visiting the site. The url is http://www.clarksrods.com  Hope you enjoy the site, and if you have any suggestions for improvement, please email me.

Response:

I have updated my site, added many new graphics, information, stories, improved the forum, and added some rods to the list that are for sale or trade. If you are interested in collecting, fishing, or repairing classic fly rods, you might be interested in visiting the site. The url is http://www.clarksrods.com  Hope you enjoy the site, and if you have any suggestions for improvement, please email me.

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Question:

I don’t know why the thought of asking the group this question didn’t occur to me until now, but I’m supremely confident that you all (that would be y’all) can set me straight. I’m not sure, but I seem to be putting too much power into my casts.   On my forward cast, the line & leader will occasionally straighten out then recoil into a less than beautiful wiggle on the surface.   When I concentrate (admittedly my weak point), I can lower my rod tip as the line goes forward and that seems to take the jerk out of it (at the other end, that is). This is difficult to control, though; and sometimes I take away too much and the leader never straightens.   Still, I think this is only coping with the symptom, not the cause. Am I in fact overpowering the cast?   Do I just need to ease up a little on the forward stroke?   What else could I be doing wrong?   At present, this is my major flaw in presentation.   I have no problem with practice, practice, practice; but I fear I may develop worse habits if I continue to practice a bad motion. Joe F.

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Could be your line is one weight too light for the rod or your leader is too short OR the leader(tippet) is too light for the fly you’re casting…. Without seeing you cast, it’s tough to diagnose….kinda like tellin a mechanic "every time I drive my car it makes a sound like WHIRR WHIRR CLICK CLAK…do you know what it is????" I’d try by process of elimination to determine if any of the above work for you. Larry #:)#

Response:

Joe F. writes:

<<I’m not sure, but I seem to be putting too much power into my casts.   On my forward cast, the line & leader will occasionally straighten out then recoil into a less than beautiful wiggle on the surface. Could be you *are* overpowering your casts.  I had (and still do a lot of time) the same problem,  I believe it was Peter Charles that told me to try putting my extended index finger on the grip instead of my thumb.  It worked wonderfully.  It seems it is difficult to overpower your cast with your hand so placed. Give it a try and come back and report, or else wait for Peter to chime in.  <g  He’ll have the answer for sure. Dave LaCourse

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I don’t know why the thought of asking the group this question didn’t occur to me until now, but I’m supremely confident that you all (that would be y’all) can set me straight. I’m not sure, but I seem to be putting too much power into my casts.   On my forward cast, the line & leader will occasionally straighten out then recoil into a less than beautiful wiggle on the surface.  

You are "over powering" your cast but if you’re fishing dries, "over powering" is one technique to help get a drag free drift. That "wiggle" on the surface is good (as long as it isn’t too excessive) because it will allow for a longer drag free float than with a perfectly straight leader. Willi

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I also cast with my index finger on the grip and this works nicely for me.  One of the easiest things to do when trying to make that little extra further cast is to apply too much power to the rod.  Good timing seems more important to me when making these "longer" casts.  And as you mentioned; Practice, practice, practice, and listen to what many of the regular posters suggest here~~They really know their stuff. Jeff Boks Fly Fishing~~~~~Just Do It

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Joe: You’re getting some good advice.  I’ll add that even a perfect cast will have leader recoil if you check up on the rod tip hard at the end of the forward stroke.  That’s why it doesn’t happen when you lower the rod tip.  But as Willi has noted, that is exactly what you want to do if you want all those curves on the water to give you a better dry fly float. Mark Faulkner – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I don’t know why the thought of asking the group this question didn’t occur to me until now, but I’m supremely confident that you all (that would be y’all) can set me straight. I’m not sure, but I seem to be putting too much power into my casts.   On my forward cast, the line & leader will occasionally straighten out then recoil into a less than beautiful wiggle on the surface.   When I concentrate (admittedly my weak point), I can lower my rod tip as the line goes forward and that seems to take the jerk out of it (at the other end, that is). This is difficult to control, though; and sometimes I take away too much and the leader never straightens.   Still, I think this is only coping with the symptom, not the cause. Am I in fact overpowering the cast?   Do I just need to ease up a little on the forward stroke?   What else could I be doing wrong?   At present, this is my major flaw in presentation.   I have no problem with practice, practice, practice; but I fear I may develop worse habits if I continue to practice a bad motion. Joe F.

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Could be you *are* overpowering your casts.  I had (and still do a lot of time) the same problem,  I believe it was Peter Charles that told me to try putting my extended index finger on the grip instead of my thumb.  It worked wonderfully.  It seems it is difficult to overpower your cast with your hand so placed.

Dave (and Pete): that is indeed a sure way to under-power a casting stroke. Unfortunately, it’s also a sure way to develop RSI in your wrist and forearm. There are less injurious ways to deal with a power & timing problem… As for the resulting wiggles providing a benefit: better to learn the proper, bread-and-butter wiggle-free cast, then learn a proper "pile" cast for when it’s needed. A good "pile" will one hell of a lot of wiggles into the line and provide a much longer drag-free drift than an overpowered cast ever will. /daytripper

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No wonder he doesn’t fish anymore.  He’s gone blind. – Mu – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – <<I had this problem until I started wanking with the other hand to compensate….hell I was getting a 22 inch forearm. Is that why they call you "Stubby"?  <g Dave & co., I don’t understand T-Bonics.  Please explain using clinical terms. It’s what he became a master at before becoming a master angler. — Charlie…

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Mu: <<No wonder he doesn’t fish anymore.  He’s gone blind. Brings new meaning to the term "catch and kill". <g Dave LaCourse

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Al:  is it really you?  man it’s good to see you back.  If you get a chance, drop me a note as to your whereabouts these days. And to the newer ROFFians, Al has been a great help to many of us with advice on all topics.  Not to worry, Al – that stretch of the _____ you put me on a couple years ago in M_____ will always be safe with me! Mark Faulkner – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Hi Joe, For years I had trouble with my casting and practice did not seem fix it because I was doing exactly like you were concerned about – practicing my mistakes. One day I was testing rods at a fly fishing show and a gentleman walked over and offered a bit of advise. In ten minutes I knew what I was doing wrong (it took a couple of years to permanently correct the problem). That man was Mel Kreiger. I suggest you invest one hour with a competent professional. If you don’t know of one in your area call the Federation of Fly Fishers at 406-585-7592 and ask them for the name of a Certified Instructor near you. Good luck & … Tight Lines – Al Beatty http://www.btsflyfishing.com

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Aww…..TBone… So it’s not true?  In the past you used to boast about being able to switch hands without dropping a stroke…..or were you talking about GOLF then, too???? =8^)

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T-Bone: <<I had this problem until I started wanking with the other hand to compensate….hell I was getting a 22 inch forearm. Is that why they call you "Stubby"?  <g Dave LaCourse

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T-Bone: <<I had this problem until I started wanking with the other hand to compensate….hell I was getting a 22 inch forearm. Is that why they call you "Stubby"?  <g

Dave & co., I don’t understand T-Bonics.  Please explain using clinical terms. Mu

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T-Bone: <<I had this problem until I started wanking with the other hand to compensate….hell I was getting a 22 inch forearm. Is that why they call you "Stubby"?  <g Dave & co., I don’t understand T-Bonics.  Please explain using clinical terms.

Man, am I ashamed of starting the thread that led down this road!    d:-o Joe F.

Response:

I’m not sure, but I seem to be putting too much power into my casts.

I had this problem until I started wanking with the other hand to compensate….hell I was getting a 22 inch forearm. — TimW, Halfordian Golfer "A Cash Flow Runs Through It…" "Guilt replaced the creel…"

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Hi Joe, For years I had trouble with my casting and practice did not seem fix it because I was doing exactly like you were concerned about – practicing my mistakes. One day I was testing rods at a fly fishing show and a gentleman walked over and offered a bit of advise. In ten minutes I knew what I was doing wrong (it took a couple of years to permanently correct the problem). That man was Mel Kreiger. I suggest you invest one hour with a competent professional. If you don’t know of one in your area call the Federation of Fly Fishers at 406-585-7592 and ask them for the name of a Certified Instructor near you. Good luck & … Tight Lines – Al Beatty http://www.btsflyfishing.com

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For years I had trouble with my casting and practice did not seem fix it because I was doing exactly like you were concerned about – practicing my mistakes. One day I was testing rods at a fly fishing show and a gentleman walked over and offered a bit of advise. In ten minutes I knew what I was doing wrong (it took a couple of years to permanently correct the problem). That man was Mel Kreiger.

I concur.  I recently got a free casting class with the Becks and found out a couple of problems with my casting.  I always had a hook in my line when I cast and found out it was because I was twisting my wrist.  I also learned how to double haul, ect.  An hour class and a little practice makes all of the difference in the world. Warren

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I don’t know why the thought of asking the group this question didn’t occur to me until now, but I’m supremely confident that you all (that would be y’all) can set me straight. I’m not sure, but I seem to be putting too much power into my casts.   On my forward cast, the line & leader will occasionally straighten out then recoil into a less than beautiful wiggle on the surface.

Thanks to all for the advice; all of which sounds pretty good.   I’ll add that my overall problem is probably consistency.   I can cast pretty well on occasion, using roll casts, reach casts, and even throwing a nice straight line.   Sometimes, though, it just ain’t working; and finesse and delicacy act as if they don’t know me.   With my relative inexperience, I have difficulty figuring out why.   For one thing, I just need to fish more often. I’ve been "in the groove" a few times when my touch and timing were right on, and it was a beautiful thing. I’d have posted this thanks sooner, but too much good advice was pouring in. Thanks again. Joe F.

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A natural hook? And I’ve been trying to learn how to fish around corners?

Response:

May not be the root of the problem but try releasing a loop of line in front of the reel toward the end of your forward cast. That will prevent some recoil. Steve

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I don’t know why the thought of asking the group this question didn’t occur to me until now, but I’m supremely confident that you all (that would be y’all) can set me straight. I’m not sure, but I seem to be putting too much power into my casts.   On my forward cast, the line & leader will occasionally straighten out then recoil into a less than beautiful wiggle on the surface.   When I concentrate (admittedly my weak point), I can lower my rod tip as the line goes forward and that seems to take the jerk out of it (at the other end, that is). This is difficult to control, though; and sometimes I take away too much and the leader never straightens.   Still, I think this is only coping with the symptom, not the cause. Am I in fact overpowering the cast?   Do I just need to ease up a little on the forward stroke?   What else could I be doing wrong?   At present, this is my major flaw in presentation.   I have no problem with practice, practice, practice; but I fear I may develop worse habits if I continue to practice a bad motion. Joe F.

Response:

Joe, I’m not the expert but here are two things that have helped me. First, taking out a whole day and fly fishing for hours on end helped me find a groove. Consistency is my problem too as I typically only fish for short periods of time when I can get away here and there.  Next, have your wife photograph (hi-speed) or videotape your stroke.  There are plenty of things which become apparent when you are watching from outside of your own body. For example, I found out that instead of drifting the rod backwards with the line after the power stroke, I was letting the tip drop below the fly line.   Of course you’ll need the discipline to consciously adjust your motions based on what you see in the video.  This is not so easy to do because unless you are used to interacting with yourself, it quickly gets boring.  I suppose having a casting instructor by your side, who engages you on a one-to-one level is of great benefit in that regard. Mu, waiting for the risers – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Thanks to all for the advice; all of which sounds pretty good.   I’ll add that my overall problem is probably consistency.   I can cast pretty well on occasion, using roll casts, reach casts, and even throwing a nice straight line.   Sometimes, though, it just ain’t working; and finesse and delicacy act as if they don’t know me.   With my relative inexperience, I have difficulty figuring out why.   For one thing, I just need to fish more often. I’ve been "in the groove" a few times when my touch and timing were right on, and it was a beautiful thing.

Response:

The best thing to do is to take a casting lesson from someone you know who is good, or from a good pro. The postal diagnosis of casting faults may be likened to correspondence courses in brain surgery, and the results are likely to be similarly catastrophic. An absolutely brilliant caster and fly-fisher ( the two are not necessarily synonymous ) once told me that one should practice until one could cast a perfectly straight line and leader, and having achieved this, to never ever do it again.  This applies to dry fly fishing of course, where a slack wavy leader is far better than a straight  tight one. Practising is only of use if you are practising correctly, practising incorrectly will usually result in you acquiring muscle memory for bad habits, which are then extremely difficult to get rid of.  Take a lesson and save yourself a lot of grief. TL MC

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Response:

        which leads me to ponder:  what is the sound of one fish flopping? wayno the zen master – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text –

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wayno writes:

<<which leads me to ponder:  what is the sound of one fish flopping? It goes sorta like this: "I didn’t do it, counselor.  I *swear* I didn’t do it.  I was in church.  They’re out to get me." davo

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Question:

But the government did many things for me just today. etc.

GOOD response.  We so often bite the hand that is suppplying our needs. Chuck Mealey Archer 2185B

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In article xyz, (yet another NGrouper) writes: But the government did many things for me just today. GOOD response.  We so often bite the hand that is suppplying our needs.

Pitiful, just pitiful. Why is it so easy for some people to ignore that "the government did many things (TO) me just today"? It’s a healthy thing to take a regular and enthusiastic nip at "the hand that is supplying our ‘needs’". Where do you think the other hand is meanwhile? Jack

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When was the last time the government took you out to a nice dinner, or did anything for you, for that matter!!  ;)  

The government hasn’t bought me a dinner since I got our of the marines in 1954.   But the government did many things for me just today.  It provided a wx report so I could decide to go fishing. It forced a nearby chemical company to stop polluting the stream so I could fish there in safety. It built roads from my house to that trout stream.  It installed traffic lights to keep people from  smacking into me as I drove along.  I passed a prison where the government keeps many people locked up so they can’t break into my home.   I didn’t fly today, but when I do, I get even more detailed wx information and can file an ifr flight plan and be provided the services of a number of government employees to assist me in conducting aa safe flight to my destination. Yes, I helped pay for all those things the government did for me, because there isn’t anyone but us citizens to pay for them.  I don’t always get my money’s worth from Uncle Sam, but I don’t always get it from private-enterprise business firms, either!   There ain’t no such thing as a free lunch. vince norris

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the stc and tso on drano is needed but then a licensed a&p is also needed along with a 337 and a blessing from the fsdo. if you don’t know what all these mean you can’t afford a plane **** Posted from RemarQ – http://www.remarq.com – Discussions Start Here ™ ****

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Instead of flushing the grand down the toilet, I take the $1000 and buy something neat for my plane and that way I NEVER have bad feelings about where the money went…. Garrett

Well, you’re on the right track.  But what you really need is a short course in Gormanomics (the patented Jim Gorman approach to rationalizing an airplane…or any other absurd expenditure.)  Here’s how it works. Say something goes wrong and your mechanic tells you it’s going to cost $1,000 to replace it.  Oh no!  You don’t have $1,000 or anywhere near it. What are you going to do? Well, you find out that you can have it repaired for $400.  Presto!  You thought you were out $1,000 (that you didn’t have).  Now you’re only out $400 (that you also didn’t have).  But that means you’ve saved $600 from the amount you originally thought you were screwed.  So now you’ve got an extra $600 to blow on something like a new headset or a handheld GPS. Now for the advanced course in Gormanomics:  If you can find that $600 headset on sale for $500, you’ll save an additional $100 which you can now use to take your spouse out for a nice dinner so you don’t feel guilty for blowing all that money on the plane.  Now you’ve got a repaired gizmo, a new headset and a happy spouse. Now, wasn’t that easy?

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Well, you find out that you can have it repaired for $400.  Presto!  You thought you were out $1,000 (that you didn’t have).  Now you’re only out $400 (that you also didn’t have).  But that means you’ve saved $600 from the amount you originally thought you were screwed.  So now you’ve got an extra $600 to blow on something like a new headset or a handheld GPS. Now for the advanced course in Gormanomics:  If you can find that $600 headset on sale for $500, you’ll save an additional $100 which you can now use to take your spouse out for a nice dinner so you don’t feel guilty for blowing all that money on the plane.  Now you’ve got a repaired gizmo, a new headset and a happy spouse.

Uhm, Jim isn’t that how the government budget surplus works, too? Mike

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– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Instead of flushing the grand down the toilet, I take the $1000 and buy something neat for my plane and that way I NEVER have bad feelings about where the money went…. Garrett Well, you’re on the right track.  But what you really need is a short course in Gormanomics (the patented Jim Gorman approach to rationalizing an airplane…or any other absurd expenditure.)  Here’s how it works. Say something goes wrong and your mechanic tells you it’s going to cost $1,000 to replace it.  Oh no!  You don’t have $1,000 or anywhere near it. What are you going to do? Well, you find out that you can have it repaired for $400.  Presto! You thought you were out $1,000 (that you didn’t have).  Now you’re only out $400 (that you also didn’t have).  But that means you’ve saved $600 from the amount you originally thought you were screwed.  So now you’ve got an extra $600 to blow on something like a new headset or a handheld GPS. Now for the advanced course in Gormanomics:  If you can find that $600 headset on sale for $500, you’ll save an additional $100 which you can now use to take your spouse out for a nice dinner so you don’t feel guilty for blowing all that money on the plane.  Now you’ve got a repaired gizmo, a new headset and a happy spouse. Now, wasn’t that easy?

Your right, it’s very straightforward.  In fact, from what I understand, this is exactly how Congress does it when they say tax ‘cuts’ and budget ‘cuts’! –Mike Share what you know. Learn what you don’t.

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Can you afford an airplane? Do this test. Take a $1000 bill (you DO have a $1000 bill dont you?), and flush it down the toilet. If it hurts, you can’t afford an airplane, if it doesn’t hurt too bad, you can probably afford one.

What does strength (holding on against the suction) have to do with affording an airplane?

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Can you afford an airplane? Do this test. Take a $1000 bill (you DO have a $1000 bill dont you?), and flush it down the toilet. If it hurts, you can’t afford an airplane, if it doesn’t hurt too bad, you can probably afford one.

I think Drano puts out a special formula product to unclog toilets that have had this test performed. The only bad part is it costs $999.95

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Hmm.  I thought you supposed to burn the $1000’s.  I knew I was doing something wrong!!!

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Can you afford an airplane? Do this test. Take a $1000 bill (you DO have a $1000 bill dont you?), and flush it down the toilet. If it hurts, you can’t afford an airplane, if it doesn’t hurt too bad, you can probably afford one.

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Is that the special STC’d and TSO’d Drano???? **** Posted from RemarQ – http://www.remarq.com – Discussions Start Here ™ ****

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Instead of flushing the grand down the toilet, I take the $1000 and buy something neat for my plane and that way I NEVER have bad feelings about where the money went…. Garrett

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My plumber … he has an airplane … think I know how he got it now … – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Is that the special STC’d and TSO’d Drano???? **** Posted from RemarQ – http://www.remarq.com – Discussions Start Here ™ ****

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Except that they forget about the part of making everybody happy.  When was the last time the government took you out to a nice dinner, or did anything for you, for that matter!!  ;)   If you can remember this, you are probably too old to pass the medical, so don’t bother to buy the airplane! Your right, it’s very straightforward.  In fact, from what I understand, this is exactly how Congress does it when they say tax ‘cuts’ and budget ‘cuts’! –Mike Share what you know. Learn what you don’t.

Share what you know. Learn what you don’t.

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IF GOD HAD WANTED MAN TO FLY HE WOULD HAVE GIVEN HIM MONEY!!!! says… – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -Can you afford an airplane? Do this test. Take a $1000 bill (you DO have a $1000 bill dont you?), and flush it down the toilet. If it hurts, you can’t afford an airplane, if it doesn’t hurt too bad, you can probably afford one.

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Question:

Let’s go fishin soon, It’s been wonderfully nice here in Illinoise. Maybe we could meet up somewhere and just cast at whatever will take a fly. Up here toward rockford, there are quite a few dams with warm run off, we could maybe try to get some smallies. Let me know what you think. Tim Apple " Always one step closer to going Postal! "

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Let’s go fishin soon, It’s been wonderfully nice here in Illinoise. Maybe we could meet up somewhere and just cast at whatever will take a fly. Up here toward rockford, there are quite a few dams with warm run off, we could maybe try to get some smallies. Let me know what you think.

Tim: After all these years, my own thread. I can do smallies by my house in Geneva in the Fox River if that’s what you want to do. Joel and I tried to track you down a few weeks ago. We’re thinking a mini trip to the Madison area either weekend of March 13th or March 27th. Early season opens March 1 for troutlets. You know, I never bought an Illinois fishing license. Email me with what you think you want to do. Wayne Knight Geneva IL                            

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Let’s go fishin soon, It’s been wonderfully nice here in Illinoise.

        if you think it’s been nice in illinoise, you ought to get a taste of north caroliner. no malice, timmy. wayno

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Wayne, You can get your Illinois license instantly on the Internet.  Go the the DNR site and links will take you to the license site (run by a contractor). I’ve done this the last two years.  I wish more states would put licenses online, it seems a simple thing to do. Also you might try the DuPage between the dam in Warrenville and the one in Naperville.  There are some really nice smallmouths in that stretch. — — Sherman Dunnam www.flyfishingjournal.com Stream Reports, Free Classifieds & More – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Let’s go fishin soon, It’s been wonderfully nice here in Illinoise. Maybe we could meet up somewhere and just cast at whatever will take a fly. Up here toward rockford, there are quite a few dams with warm run off, we could maybe try to get some smallies. Let me know what you think. Tim: After all these years, my own thread. I can do smallies by my house in Geneva in the Fox River if that’s what you want to do. Joel and I tried to track you down a few weeks ago. We’re thinking a mini trip to the Madison area either weekend of March 13th or March 27th. Early season opens March 1 for troutlets. You know, I never bought an Illinois fishing license. Email me with what you think you want to do. Wayne Knight Geneva IL

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writes: Also you might try the DuPage between the dam in Warrenville and the one in Naperville.  There are some really nice smallmouths in that stretch.

Thanks, I think I know where that’s at. Wayne Knight Geneva IL                            

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Question:

I re-tilled and seeded my lawn this spring with Yuma a hybrid Bermda grass. Just now starting to have a good solid growth of new grass, but also have an over abundance of nut grass. Anyone have advice on how to get rid of nut rog

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I re-tilled and seeded my lawn this spring with Yuma a hybrid Bermda grass. Just now starting to have a good solid growth of new grass, but also have an over abundance of nut grass. Anyone have advice on how to get rid of nut rog

  If this is the same thing I’ve got here in NC it’s the worst weed going.  Nodules distributed along little thin roots, so pulling it out just breaks the root and makes more plants.  I’ve tried RoundUp painted carefully along the grass blades or dripped into the crown with no success.  I’m told it doesn’t get past the first nodule.  The only thing I’ve found to do is lift up the top several inches of soil and dispose of it (where?).  Obviously that has its limitations. — Lloyd R. Fortney ….. http://www.phy.duke.edu/~fortney physics, research, teaching, photography, flower gardening, travel, and fly fishing

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Can someone describe what nutgrass looks like?? thanks Timothy B. Dyeson, PhD, LMSW University of North Texas Department of Applied Gerontology Minority Aging Research Institute www.unt.edu/depts/mari/ – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I re-tilled and seeded my lawn this spring with Yuma a hybrid Bermda grass. Just now starting to have a good solid growth of new grass, but also have an over abundance of nut grass. Anyone have advice on how to get rid of nut rog   If this is the same thing I’ve got here in NC it’s the worst weed going.  Nodules distributed along little thin roots, so pulling it out just breaks the root and makes more plants.  I’ve tried RoundUp painted carefully along the grass blades or dripped into the crown with no success.  I’m told it doesn’t get past the first nodule.  The only thing I’ve found to do is lift up the top several inches of soil and dispose of it (where?).  Obviously that has its limitations. — Lloyd R. Fortney ….. http://www.phy.duke.edu/~fortney physics, research, teaching, photography, flower gardening, travel, and fly fishing

–

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I’ve got the same problem — who doesn’t?! How about nuking the whole yard and starting over????  <g http://members.aol.com/wilona1/index.html Pages updated June 6, 1997 – NEW:  Handmade Baby Afghans!!! Gardening – Genealogy – Newsletter – Links

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I’ve got the same problem — who doesn’t?! How about nuking the whole yard and starting over????  <g http://members.aol.com/wilona1/index.html Pages updated June 6, 1997 – NEW:  Handmade Baby Afghans!!! Gardening – Genealogy – Newsletter – Links

Try a product called Image.  Also there is one called Manage. You can also use MSMA.  If you pull it make sure you loosen the soil that will give you  a better chance of getting the nutlet out of the ground.  The nuts grow out and down.

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Nut grass is also a good indicator plant of other cultural problems Compaction Poor drainage acid soil A long term investment in changing the culture will reduce nut grass – also consider a shrub/mulch planting.

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Can someone describe what nutgrass looks like?? thanks

  What I call nutgrass is a medium course, mostly vertical grass growing from a crown.  It has maybe 4-6 stiff leaves from each crown and there is usually a colony of at least a couple of dozen crowns.  They are maybe 1/4" or so wide and up to a foot or more in height if you don’t mow or pull it first.  It easily outgrows my bermuda: a day or two after mowing it will be twice as high as the bermuda.  But underground is where the real problem lies.  I havn’t tried the chemicals mentioned in another reply, but I’m going looking tomorrow. — Lloyd R. Fortney ….. http://www.phy.duke.edu/~fortney physics, research, teaching, photography, flower gardening, travel, and fly fishing

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This may be the one time that having a cat in your garden could help. My cats just love nut grass and have made it a scarce commodity in my yard. Lisa Peterson — Without Trucks, Minnesota Stops! – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I re-tilled and seeded my lawn this spring with Yuma a hybrid Bermda grass. Just now starting to have a good solid growth of new grass, but also have an over abundance of nut grass. Anyone have advice on how to get rid of nut rog

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USE A CHEMICAL NAMED "MANAGE" 2 -APPLICATIONS

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Question:

My mother-in-law is moving to Superior, Montana (about sixty miles west of Missoula), and will be living right on the Clark Fork.  Am I right that this is a pretty good flyfishing river? (Please forgive my ignorance.) I figure that since I’ll be spending some time out there, I might as well take advantage of the fishing.  The thing is, though, I’ve never flyfished moving water and know very little about it. Years ago I used to do quite a bit of flyfishing in lakes in British Columbia, Canada.  And I used to tie all my own flies. I’d be obliged if someone might be able to answer a few questions for me regarding that stretch of river: First and foremost, what flies should I be tying and in what sizes? What kind of gear should I use?  (Double taper or weight forward line? Floating or sinking?  What weight?) Also, if anyone could recommed a book on flyfishing rivers and streams, particularly anything specific to Western Montana, I’d appreciate it. Thanks in advance for any help, Philip

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- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – My mother-in-law is moving to Superior, Montana (about sixty miles west of Missoula), and will be living right on the Clark Fork.  Am I right that this is a pretty good flyfishing river? (Please forgive my ignorance.) I figure that since I’ll be spending some time out there, I might as well take advantage of the fishing.  The thing is, though, I’ve never flyfished moving water and know very little about it. Years ago I used to do quite a bit of flyfishing in lakes in British Columbia, Canada.  And I used to tie all my own flies. I’d be obliged if someone might be able to answer a few questions for me regarding that stretch of river: First and foremost, what flies should I be tying and in what sizes? What kind of gear should I use?  (Double taper or weight forward line? Floating or sinking?  What weight?) Also, if anyone could recommed a book on flyfishing rivers and streams, particularly anything specific to Western Montana, I’d appreciate it. Thanks in advance for any help, Philip

Yeah…it’s ok fishing.

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Question:

I’ve only gone fishing a few times in my life and I’m currently in the Pittsburgh area.  Since all I have is a fishing rod, what I need is some starting points.  If anyone knows of fishing sites in the Pittsburgh area along with the appropriate season for fishing there, I would appreciate Thanks.

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I’ve only gone fishing a few times in my life and I’m currently in the Pittsburgh area.  Since all I have is a fishing rod, what I need is some starting points.  If anyone knows of fishing sites in the Pittsburgh area along with the appropriate season for fishing there, I would appreciate Thanks.

Serene Fly-Fishing Adventures fishing all of Pa top waters from Erie tribs to W.B.Delaware for wild trout.  Cent Pa limestone contact Pete for mor info.

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- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I’ve only gone fishing a few times in my life and I’m currently in the Pittsburgh area.  Since all I have is a fishing rod, what I need is some starting points.  If anyone knows of fishing sites in the Pittsburgh area along with the appropriate season for fishing there, I would appreciate Thanks. Serene Fly-Fishing Adventures fishing all of Pa top waters from Erie tribs to W.B.Delaware for wild trout.  Cent Pa limestone contact Pete for mor info.

There’s 2 or more books out for streams in PA. Don B. Wishful collector of Gillums and Dickersons – owner of Montague, H-I and Heddons

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Question:

Hi, I’m fairly new to the Charlotte, NC area and would like to hear from anyone who has fished any area streams/rivers. I have looked on several FF pages for locations, but I would like to hear from someone with first-hand experience. I won’t mind a bit of a drive(it looks like I have no choice anyway!). Thanks in advance.

Matt,    You can take US77 north to Elkin on the tale Hwy 21 to Stone Mountain State park "about 90 min.". There they have a delayed harvest stream that is well stocked. They also have a stream called Bullhead that you can pay $4 to fish a section. Only one person can fish a section. It is catch and release with barbless hooks only. The fish in Bullhead are hard to catch but the are rather large. Another 15 miles North is the New River. It has Musky, Smallmouth and Rock "Redeye" Bass. It offers several places where you can wade however you may want to wait until it get’s warmer unless you are going after Musky. The New River runs in both NC and VA but NC has an agreement with VA where NC license are valid in parts of VA.    I hope this helps. Good Fishing, Shawn

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Hi, I’m fairly new to the Charlotte, NC area and would like to hear from anyone who has fished any area streams/rivers. I have looked on several FF pages for locations, but I would like to hear from someone with first-hand experience. I won’t mind a bit of a drive(it looks like I have no choice anyway!). Thanks in advance.

This is a test, but i have to say that the best fishing is in the north of Sweden

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Hi, I’m fairly new to the Charlotte, NC area and would like to hear from anyone who has fished any area streams/rivers. I have looked on several FF pages for locations, but I would like to hear from someone with first-hand experience.   I won’t mind a bit of a drive(it looks like I have no choice anyway!). Thanks in advance.

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Hi, I’m fairly new to the Charlotte, NC area and would like to hear from anyone who has fished any area streams/rivers. I have looked on several FF pages for locations, but I would like to hear from someone with first-hand experience.   I won’t mind a bit of a drive(it looks like I have no choice anyway!). Thanks in advance.

Matt:         Depending upon the type of fishing you want to do, you have a boatload of choices!  If you are into warm water fishing for largemouth bass and various panfish species, Lake Wylie south of Charlotte, and Lake Norman (600 miles of shoreline for the entire impoundment) north of town are excellent choices, within 30 minute drive.  For smallmouth, I am unaware of any rivers nearby; you may have to drive north, up here to Virginia.  Other rivers for warm water species include the Catawba (down towards Gastonia), and various tributaries.  The Blue Ridge Parkway/Appalachian mountains are only about a 90 minute drive from town, and offer a lot of small streams, many carrying stocked or native/gone wild trout.  One place I went while living in NC was Julian Price Park, right on the Parkway.  Boone Fork flows through, and has some good holes down the Boone Fork Trail, about 1 mile from the picnic area.  Further afield, the area around Asheville (2-3 hour drive) and Cullowhee/Cherokee reservation has a number of great trout waters.  Much more information is available in a small book called "Flyfishing in the Southern Appalachia", which is available at Barnes and Noble bookstore (at lwast I have seen it there).            Insofar as quality of fishing, I have heard great things about Lake Norman bass.  Since it is a relatively recently flooded impoundment, the cover is superb, and you can nose around for years and not fish it all. The trout in the mountains are also great, but if you expect monsters, do not be disappointed.  This is definitely small stream fishing.  Your roll cast will get quite a workout. Hope some of this is helpful. Dan Johnson

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Question:

Does any one have any info on landlock flies?techniques they would like to share It would be greatly apreciated.                                         Adam Ford

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 (Adam Ford) writes: Does any one have any info on landlock flies?techniques they would like to share It would be greatly apreciated.

Standards: 1–streamers that imitate smelt, in rivers in spring (when smelt spawn) and trolling in lakes all year, 2–small Muddlers in white water, 3–matching the hatch of dries or nymphs, when trout-like feeding can be observed, 4–big nymphs in deep pockets (Charles Brooks style). —  |          Donald Phillipson, 4180 Boundary Rd., Carlsbad         |  |        Springs, Ont., Canada K0A 1K0; tel: (613) 822-0734       |  |  "What I’ve always liked about science is its independence from |  |  authority"–Ontario Science Centre (name on file) 10 July 1981 |

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Adam, Joe Jack who lives here in Burke VA introduced to me to spring fishing for Landlocks in Maine at Wheaton’s Lodge on East Grand Lake (Canadian Border).  We fished with "tandem" streamer flies.  These are large streamers with a second trailing hook to get the ones who "short strike" the fly.  He also ties single hook versions for the rivers.  The tandem flies are "trolled" from a canoe with your fly rod and about half of your fly line out the back of the canoe.  He sells flies whoesale and retail.  Contact me separately for his phone number.  Wheaton’s Lodge was great.  I had my own cabin with 3/4 bath, wood stove and 3 home cooked meals a day for $75/day.  Guides are $115/day for 2 fisherman.   Boat and motor can be rented for $35/day.  I can’t wait to go back. Bill A.

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This past summer I did some trolling with flies for landlocked salmon in Maine in July.  We trolled with lead core lines to get down 20+ feet.  I used and old bamboo bait rod and antique pflueger summit bait reel.  You don’t get as good a fight with the lead core but you can still get down to the big ones in the lakes with flies.  We used tube flies tied on copper tubes.  These were new to me but I think they’re really cool.  We tied standard traditional streamer patterns on them and strung them on a short shock tippet attached to a small treble hook.  Use a plastic tube (aquarium tubing) to make a releasable connector at rear of fly tube.  I tied a few strands of silver flashabou and some white marabou on the treble hooks.  Deadly!  My buddy makes his tube flies on heavier copper conduit tube, about 3/8" diameter and permanently attaches the treble with spring steel wire running through the tube,  truly lures, definitely not fly fishing be careful in special regulation areas.   Normally I stick with the real traditional patterns.  A great reference book is Trolling Flies for Trout and Salmon by Dick Stewart and Bob Leeman distributed by the Stephen Green Press Fessenden Rd. Brattleboro VT 05301 and Universal Vise Corp16 Union Ave, Westfield MA. 01085. E-Mail me if I can tie some flies for you or if you have any questions. Landlocks are the best!  Catch and release Dave Wood

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Question:

   The first twenty-one and half feet of my fly line broke off!  I don’t know what happened other than I must have stepped on it on a rock.  I bought it just a couple of weeks ago.  It is Fenwick’s World Class fly line, Trout class, WF-6-F.  My questions are:    1.  Should it be more abrasion resistant than this?  Should I seek an exchange (Cabelas or Fenwick)?    2.  Is it salvageable?  I wouldn’t think one would want to splice it together.    3.  The Cortland I had previously could be reversed on the reel and the opposite end used as the casting end.  I didn’t find any mention of being able to do this with this line.  Would I even want to with it being twenty-one feet shorter?    Thanks for any information anyone can provide!    Larry Larry Dawson                                      Lincoln, NE   USA    "The concept of the "work week" is one of the more deadening    aspects of our civilization, robbing us of, among other    things, allthe great ideas that could be hatched by people    who’d do their best thinking at two in the morning if they    weren’t too tired of working allday …"          The View From Rat Lake,  John Gierach

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Most fly line manufacturers (Sci Ang and Cortland)  will replace free of charge a defective line.  Just send the remaining old line back with your message of what happened.

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  The first twenty-one and half feet of my fly line broke off!  I don’t know what happened other than I must have stepped on it on a rock.  I bought it just a couple of weeks ago.  It is Fenwick’s World Class fly line, Trout class, WF-6-F.  My questions are:   1.  Should it be more abrasion resistant than this?  Should I seek an exchange (Cabelas or Fenwick)?

Well, being as you don’t even have a clue as to how you broke it, it’s a bit presumptuous for anyone to pass judgement in this regard. You could certainly give the exchange route a try, but don’t bet the fishfarm on it…   2.  Is it salvageable?  I wouldn’t think one would want to splice it together.

Frankly, I wouldn’t. I suppose one could use something like acetone to dissolve a few inches or so of the coating at both ends, come up with some way to join the cores together (anyone think of a good knot for that?) and then build up the splice with Goo or something similar to match the diameter of the line. But this seems like going to heroic measures for possibly dissappointing results.   3.  The Cortland I had previously could be reversed on the reel and the opposite end used as the casting end.  I didn’t find any mention of being able to do this with this line.  Would I even want to with it being twenty-one feet shorter?

You cannot reverse a "Weight Forward" line and have anything even remotely similar to the original casting qualities. You were able to reverse the Cortland line because it was undoubtably a DT – "Double Taper" – line. If you check out the stuff that came with your current line there should be a description of the various tapers on the different lines, and you’ll see that there are significant differences in the front and back tapers of a typical WF line… In summary I suspect you just learned a valuable – if costly – lesson… /dave <<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<< < Digital Equipment Corp.    Alpha Server Engineering  < <           "Read this and nobody gets hurt"           < <<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<

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   The first twenty-one and half feet of my fly line broke off!  I don’t know what happened other than I must have stepped on it on a rock.  I bought it just a couple of weeks ago.  It is Fenwick’s World Class fly line, Trout class, WF-6-F.  My questions are:    3.  The Cortland I had previously could be reversed on the reel and the opposite end used as the casting end.  I didn’t find any mention of being able to do this with this line.  Would I even want to with it being twenty-one feet shorter?

hi, You definitely DON"T want to reverse this line ! A WF line has the first 30 feet or so for casting and the rest is a "shooting" or travelling line. If you reversed one in the past, it was probably a double taper line, and that is the big advantage, being able to reverse. I would certainly ask about compensation, they are supposed to be tougher than that.(on the other hand, rocks do cause problems!) Good Luck. Tight Lines Tackle Shop and Guide Service Lockeport, Nova Scotia, Canada

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– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text –    The first twenty-one and half feet of my fly line broke off!  I don’t
know what happened other than I must have stepped on it on a rock.  I
bought it just a couple of weeks ago.  It is Fenwick’s World Class fly
line, Trout class, WF-6-F.  My questions are:
   1.  Should it be more abrasion resistant than this?  Should I seek an
exchange (Cabelas or Fenwick)?
   2.  Is it salvageable?  I wouldn’t think one would want to splice it
together.
   3.  The Cortland I had previously could be reversed on the reel and the
opposite end used as the casting end.  I didn’t find any mention of being
able to do this with this line.  Would I even want to with it being
twenty-one feet shorter?
   Thanks for any information anyone can provide!
   Larry
Larry Dawson                                      Lincoln, NE   USA
   "The concept of the "work week" is one of the more deadening
   aspects of our civilization, robbing us of, among other
   things, allthe great ideas that could be hatched by people
   who’d do their best thinking at two in the morning if they
   weren’t too tired of working allday …"
         The View From Rat Lake,  John Gierach

About a year ago there was an article in Fly Angler Mag on how to splice fly lines together. The author used a short length of 20 to 35 pound test monofilament (depending on diameter of fly line), and using sandpaper sort of sharpened the ends of the mono. Then he used a small drop of 5 minute epoxy on the ends of the mono and slipped the ends of the mono up the core of the fly line on both ends of the cut. If you have the right length of mono you can butt the ends of the fly line next to each other, and the excess epoxy sealed the ends together. You can only get the mono about a quarter inch inside the fly line, so the entire splice is only about a half an inch long. This is the way I attach a length of mono to the end of my fly line and then tie a loop in the end of the mono for a loop to loop connection with my leader, so I can attest to the strength of the connection. I may be able to find the article, so if you are interested send me your snail mail address and I’ll send you a xerox copy of it. Darryl Hayashida

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There is another method for repairing this line, that Lefty Kreh talks about in the tackle Symposium, of his Little Library series.  Use some braided monofilament(50#) like a "chinese handcuff" and then whip the ends of the braided mono and apply some pliobond.  Should hold up just fine, if you can’t get a new line from Cortland. Crashjibe

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Hi. Im Murray and I run a fly fishing school in the Toronto area.  I have quite a number of lines that are used every weekend by novices who really beat up the lines and equipment.   I have quite a number of lines that have been used like this for many years and I have never had a line break ever.  I think that you should take it back, its obviously defective.  If they wont take it back there are knots that you can use to splice it together.  I have never dont this so I dont know of any off the top of my head but you should be able to find them in a good fly fishing book.   Your question about turning the line around is valid, but this can only be done if it is a double tapered line.  if it is a weight forward line it cant be turned around.  (Well it could but it wouldnt cast very well.) I probably shouldn’t say this but I have not found a Fenwick line that I have ever liked.  I don’t think that they compare to a good courtland or sientific anglers line. hope that this helps.   Murray.  Murray’s Fly Fishing School. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text –   The first twenty-one and half feet of my fly line broke off!  I don’t  know what happened other than I must have stepped on it on a rock.  I  bought it just a couple of weeks ago.  It is Fenwick’s World Class fly   line, Trout class, WF-6-F.  My questions are:   1.  Should it be more abrasion resistant than this?   Should I seek an  exchange (Cabelas or Fenwick)?   2.  Is it salvageable?  I wouldn’t think one would want to splice it  together.   3.  The Cortland I had previously could be reversed on the reel and the  opposite end used as the casting end.  I didn’t find any mention of being  able to do this with this line.  Would I even want to with it being  twenty-one feet shorter?   Thanks for any information anyone can provide!   Larry    /     AOL:  LarryD39   "The concept of the "work week" is one of the more deadening   aspects of our civilization, robbing us of, among other   things, allthe great ideas that could be hatched by people   who’d do their best thinking at two in the morning if they   weren’t too tired of working allday …"         The View From Rat Lake,  John Gierach  

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LARRY: I WOULD SUGGEST THE RETURN TO THE STORE METHOD.  YOU CAN TRY A BLIND SPLICE AS SUGGESTED, BUT IF YOUR NOT FAMLIAR WITH IT, I WOULDN’T UNDERTAKE IT RIGHT NOW FOR A LINE YOU WILL FISH REGULARLY.  ON THE RETURN TO THE STORE THOUGH, THE SHOP OWNER SHOULD’T HAVE A PROBLEM WITH IT.  FENWICK HAS A VERY GOOD GUARANTEE ON THE BACK OF THIER PACKAGING.  MOST OF THESE MANUFACTURERS WANT TO KEEP YOU USING THIER PRODUCT AND THEY DO HAVE AN UNDERSTANDING AS TO " IT JUST BROKE", IT’S CALLED KEEP THE PRODUCT IN THE CUSTOMERS HANDS.  HOWVEVER, THEY DO APPRECIATE A LITTLE EFFORT ON THE PART OF CONSUMER AS TO HOW YOU THINK IT MAY HAVE HAPPENED, POSSIBLY COMBINED WITH COMMENTS ON PROIR HAPPINESS.  I’D GO THE REPLACEMENT ROUTE WITH THE STORE FIRST AND IF THAT DIDN’T WORK, THEN MAIL IT BACK TO FENWICK – I’D BE VERY SURPISED IF THEY DIDN’T HELP.  I’D LIKE TO HEAR HOW YOU MAKE OUT. GOOD LUCK, BOB/FL.

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