Question:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I seem to miss alot of posts these days, and am wondering how well my own posts go out. If you see this post directly, could you please email me? Also, up until about 4 replies, could you also reply on ROFF and include the full text? If you don’t receive my post directly but see it on ROFF included in someone else’s reply, could you please email me that you didn’t receive it? Thanks in advance, Jon.

Response:

I think I can see it… no wait, that’s not it. Nevermind. — SaltyWaders "Old eyes can’t see shit…"

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I seem to miss alot of posts these days, and am wondering how well my own posts go out. If you see this post directly, could you please email me? Also, up until about 4 replies, could you also reply on ROFF and include the full text? If you don’t receive my post directly but see it on ROFF included in someone else’s reply, could you please email me that you didn’t receive it? Thanks in advance, Jon.

Response:

What post? Wolfgang

Response:

I seem to miss alot of posts these days, and am wondering how well my own posts go out. If you see this post directly, could you please email me? Also, up until about 4 replies, could you also reply on ROFF and include the full text? If you don’t receive my post directly but see it on ROFF included in someone else’s reply, could you please email me that you didn’t receive it? Thanks in advance, Jon.

I see it directly.  I just changed my ISP because of dropped messages and other newsgroups problems.

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I saw it.                   Tom L

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[This followup was posted to rec.outdoors.fishing.fly and a copy was sent to the cited author.] Saw it here. I seem to miss alot of posts these days, and am wondering how well my own posts go out. If you see this post directly, could you please email me? Also, up until about 4 replies, could you also reply on ROFF and include the full text? If you don’t receive my post directly but see it on ROFF included in someone else’s reply, could you please email me that you didn’t receive it? Thanks in advance, Jon.

– Charles Davis    K4SWB <I’m The NRA

Response:

If you see this post directly, could you please email me? Also, up until about 4 replies, could you also reply on ROFF and include the full text? If you don’t receive my post directly but see it on ROFF included in someone else’s reply, could you please email me that you didn’t receive it? Thanks in advance, Jon

I saw it.  Didn

Question:

My better half and I are launching an e-commerce Computer Store. Please take a look and pass the word to others. We have taken the plunge and after several months have opened the site for sales. We have free UPS ground shipping on all orders over $500. The site has digital cameras, web cameras, printers, monitors, notebooks, mice, etc. We’ll be adding more products weekly and can get most products even if not on the website. I feel awkward about putting this in newsgroups but I need to get the word out. I am only announcing this in forums that we have personal interests in. (RC Planes, Kayaking, EMS, Fly Fishing, etc) Yes, this blatant advertising. I apologize if I offends anyone. If there are complaints, I certainly won’t advertise again. Thank you for reading and I hope you like the store. www.computerthingies.com John Legg

Response:

Complaint here.   Don’t do it.  Leave the URL in your sig file and contribute to groups you’re interested in.  It’s slower, but it won’t piss people off enough to complain to your ISP.  Which I gave up bothering to do with SPAMmers (yes, you are.  Or at least advertising in conversational groups, which is a no-no) years ago.  However many still do.  Do you really want to lose your ISP and have to go find another email and Web site? If there are complaints, I certainly won’t advertise again.

— rbc:  vixen    Fairly harmless http://www.visi.com/~cyli

Response:

You weren’t the only complaint and I certainly learned my lesson the hard way. I posted to 6 newsgroups that I have interests in. Shortly thereafter I posted apologies to 6 newsgroups that I had interests in. Well at least I thought I’d apologized to 6 newsgroups. It looks like I forgot this one. Sorry about that. I was hesitant to post and I certainly regret doing it. It won’t happen again. John Legg www.computerthingies.com

Response:

Complaint here.   Don’t do it.  Leave the URL in your sig file and contribute to groups you’re interested in.  It’s slower, but it won’t piss people off enough to complain to your ISP.  Which I gave up bothering to do with SPAMmers (yes, you are.  Or at least advertising in conversational groups, which is a no-no) years ago.  However many still do.  Do you really want to lose your ISP and have to go find another email and Web site?

I’ve contacted him off the group and explained to him the evils of spamming. Personally, I have a very low tolerance for spammers (mainly because they cost my business $$$) – but this guy genuinely did not realize that what he was doing was wrong.  He was also pretty worried about losing his account…I doubt he’ll ever spam again.  :-) –Tina — HOSTING: from $45 per YEAR + FREE Domain w/most       PHP/mySQL, SSI, CGI, installed scripts & more              Merchant Account + FREE hosting Info                     http://www.AffordableHost.com

Response:

Nice apology.  And you didn’t lose your account.  From the way you phrased it, it was pretty obvious you were a newbbie at the advertising thing, so I doubt if anyone got really hot about it.  At least not enough to complain to your ISP.  It’s one of those learning things.  As a sister-in-law once said, "Oh, lord how I HATE learning experiences."  Hey, it’s not like doing something really dumb with power tools and powerlines or bare arms. You weren’t the only complaint and I certainly learned my lesson the hard way. I posted to 6 newsgroups that I have interests in. Shortly thereafter I posted apologies to 6 newsgroups that I had interests in. Well at least I thought I’d apologized to 6 newsgroups. It looks like I forgot this one. Sorry about that. I was hesitant to post and I certainly regret doing it. It won’t happen again. John Legg www.computerthingies.com

— rbc:  vixen    Fairly harmless http://www.visi.com/~cyli

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Question:

UNC has several campuses, the most well-known of which is in Chapel Hill, North Carolina. The Chapel Hill campus mascot is the Tar Heel, which of course was named after a well-known fly fishing alumnus who wades *really, really slowly* so as not to fall over backwards. –Steve – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – inquiry snipped Terry

Response:

I have just checked out the list and have not seen any postings by uncle george. I thought perhaps he had finally given up on the list and got on with something worthwhile until I checked out his website and found it not to have been updated. Terry

HWMNBN claims to be hanging around the Mayo Clinic…

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I have just checked out the list and have not seen any postings by uncle george. I thought perhaps he had finally given up on the list and got on with something worthwhile until I checked out his website and found it not to have been updated. Terry

Response:

Thanks, I guess years of talking through his arse ‘ole has taken its toll? Joking aside, I hope it is not serious but I know he has some half decent cane. The beveller is not worth a shit though! – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I have just checked out the list and have not seen any postings by uncle george. I thought perhaps he had finally given up on the list and got on with something worthwhile until I checked out his website and found it not to have been updated. Terry HWMNBN claims to be hanging around the Mayo Clinic…

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Question:

[surgeon's knot instructions snipped] I was curious about the way most people tie knots.  I use my tongue in almost every knot I tie. Hey now! That’s gotta make you popular with the ladies!

Really! Can you tie an overhand not in the stem of a cherry with using your hands? — Those who say do not know; those who know do not say. — Lao Tsu, who must have been a fisherman. something bogus to avoid spam)

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I use my tongue in

almost every knot I tie.  < Is that a sexual reference?  I think that’s a sexual reference.  <g

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I *think* this one’s for you, Mu (and rw probably meant to say "not" using your hands). – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I was curious about the way most people tie knots.  I use my tongue in almost every knot I tie. Really! Can you tie an overhand not in the stem of a cherry with using your hands?

Response:

I see we are complete agreement. <g  Nothing like confusing the rookies, eh?

I’m not exactly a rookie, since I’ve been flyfishing on and off (mostly off) for over 40 years, going back to the days when fiberglass rods were the latest thing and line weights were letter-coded . I’ve just never used the surgeon’s knot much. I have to admit, though, that I’ve caught more trout in the past four months than in the previous 40 years. Thanks for the tips. I’m starting to think my tippet material is too old. — Those who say do not know; those who know do not say. — Lao Tsu, who must have been a fisherman. something bogus to avoid spam)

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RW: (snip) <<Thanks for the tips. I’m starting to think my tippet material is too old. Awwwww, you stole my thunder, RW.  Seriously, if a surgeon’s knot (double,triple) is tied correctly (and it should be since you are an experienced FFer), it shouldn’t fail.  Unless, of course, the tippet material has gone bad. Dave LaCourse

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I see we are complete agreement. <g  Nothing like confusing the rookies, eh? I’m not exactly a rookie, since I’ve been flyfishing on and off (mostly off) for over 40 years, going back to the days when fiberglass rods were the latest thing and line weights were letter-coded . I’ve just never used the surgeon’s knot much. I have to admit, though, that I’ve caught more trout in the past four months than in the previous 40 years. Thanks for the tips. I’m starting to think my tippet material is too old. — Those who say do not know; those who know do not say. — Lao Tsu, who must have been a fisherman. something bogus to avoid spam)

I wasn’t specifically thinking about you since we’ve seen you around the group for quite a while.  I read Dave’s post a minute after hitting the send button and it just made me laugh how we (meaning all of us) give contradictory responses to basic questions.  It must be as confusing as hell for real rookies when they read this stuff.   Peter

Response:

RW: (snip) <<Thanks for the tips. I’m starting to think my tippet material is too old. Awwwww, you stole my thunder, RW.  Seriously, if a surgeon’s knot (double,triple) is tied correctly (and it should be since you are an experienced FFer), it shouldn’t fail.  Unless, of course, the tippet material has gone bad. Dave LaCourse

I refrained from rude "old tippet" jokes.  Too easy. There’s an easy test for bad knot vs.bad tippet.  Hold the knotted sections in an inverted ‘U’ with the knot at the top of the ‘U’ and work the mono back and worth.  If the knot is OK, the shape of the ‘U’ will be maintained.  If the tippet has been damaged, it’ll hinge at the knot.  You may not even be able to form the ‘U’ as it may simply fold over at the weak point on the tippet side of the knot. Peter

Response:

Peter Charles: <<There’s an easy test for bad knot vs.bad tippet.  Hold the knotted sections in an inverted ‘U’ with the knot at the top of the ‘U’ and work the mono back and worth.  If the knot is OK, the shape of the ‘U’ will be maintained.  If the tippet has been damaged, it’ll hinge at the knot.  You may not even be able to form the ‘U’ as it may simply fold over at the weak point on the tippet side of the knot. You are a never-ending font of information, Charles! Did you get my directions? Dave LaCourse

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Did you get my directions? Dave LaCourse

Yes thanks.  Sounds straightforward – until I get lost. Peter

Response:

Just for clarification. Are you tying the two overhand knots separately or together? If you tie the overhand then tighten then tie the secound overhand knot over the first its much weaker and will pull through easier. You can go to three overhand knots. A little bulkier but will lock down the tippet. Also some tippet material is very slick. Changing brands might save some grief. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – In the past I’ve always used a blood knot to tie tippet to leader. Lately I’ve been using a surgeon’s knot because it’s definitely easier, if not prettier. My problem is that the damn things keep breaking on me. I’ve heard this is a very strong knot. I’m sure I’m tying it right — just two overhand knots with the tag ends. What’s going on? Is there a trick to tightening it? I’m tightening the non-tag ends first and then the tag ends, and then trimming the knot. — something bogus to avoid spam)

Response:

Just for clarification. Are you tying the two overhand knots separately or together?

I’m tying them both together. — Those who say do not know; those who know do not say. — Lao Tsu, who must have been a fisherman. something bogus to avoid spam)

Response:

I’m tying them both together.

I suppose everyone loves to do things their own way.  But the beauty of the surgeon’s knot is #1 it’s really strong, and #2 you can tie it even in the wind with a hangover (no tools required). After years of tying the knot, I’ve worked out a method I find foolproof and very fast (I’m right handed, you might reverse directions if you’re not). 1) overlap the leader and tippet a couple of inches, and fold back the two strands to create a vertical, double overhand loop, with the tag ends crossing behind and to the right.  Hold the loop closed between the left thumb and index finger. 2)  You now have two tag ends trailing out the right side:  A short one from the leader, and a long one from the tippet. 3) Thread the short tag end through the loop, making sure you thread it through from the front. Pull it just tight enough to get rid of any slack, but do not tighten the loop. 4) Now grab the tippet tag end about an inch from the end, and slip it through the loop TWICE, each time pulling in the slack and feeding it from the front. 5) Thread the short tag through the loop, from the front, a second time, and eliminate the slack. 6)Now grab all four ends (two on each side in one hand), wet the loop with saliva, and pull tight, slowly.  Trim. This gives you a double surgeon’s knot.  Alternate feeding the short and long tag ends through the loop a third time to tie a triple. Michael — www.geocities.com/yosemite/falls/3363 Share what you know. Learn what you don’t.

Response:

Michael Goldstein: < <I suppose everyone loves to do things their own way.  But the beauty of the surgeon’s knot is #1 it’s really strong, and #2 you can tie it even in the wind with a hangover (no tools required). (directions snipped for brevity) I used to tie it in a similar fashion, Michael, until I saw a tool demonstrated at a fly show.  I bought the tool and use it exclusively for surgeon’s and clinch knots.  The beauty of the tool is that you do not have to fumble with tag ends or any ends which can be difficult in cold weather, especially if your hands aren’t very nimble to begin with.  I amazed a couple of professional guides recently with the speed at which I can tie both knots.  Different strokes I guess….. Dave LaCourse

Response:

I used to tie it in a similar fashion, Michael, until I saw a tool demonstrated at a fly show.  <snip

Dave, I hate being dependent on a tool, since sooner or later they have a way of disappearing.  I use a nail knot tool, for example, and found myself stymied when it disappeared out of my pack. With the surgeon’s knot, when it gets cold, I just make the loop larger.  You waste more tippet and leader, but I’ve never not been able to tie it, and I fish year round (though NJ winters have been pretty mild). But if the tool works for you, mazel tov. Michael — www.geocities.com/yosemite/falls/3363 Share what you know. Learn what you don’t.

Response:

[surgeon's knot instructions snipped] I was curious about the way most people tie knots.  I use my tongue in almost every knot I tie.   Mu Young Lee           Ann Arbor, MI  USA

Response:

[surgeon's knot instructions snipped] I was curious about the way most people tie knots.  I use my tongue in almost every knot I tie.  

Hey now! That’s gotta make you popular with the ladies! /daytripper (Hardcore "alphabet" practitioner ;^)

Response:

In the past I’ve always used a blood knot to tie tippet to leader. Lately I’ve been using a surgeon’s knot because it’s definitely easier, if not prettier. My problem is that the damn things keep breaking on me. I’ve heard this is a very strong knot. I’m sure I’m tying it right — just two overhand knots with the tag ends. What’s going on? Is there a trick to tightening it? I’m tightening the non-tag ends first and then the tag ends, and then trimming the knot. — something bogus to avoid spam)

Response:

I’m sure I’m tying it right — just two overhand knots with the tag ends. What’s going on? Is there a trick to tightening it? I’m tightening the non-tag ends first and then the tag ends, and then trimming the knot.

Spit on it, and tighten everybody at the same time slooooooowly. Works for me. — Ken Fortenberry

Response:

Ken Fortenberry: I’m sure I’m tying it right — just two overhand knots with the tag ends. What’s going on? Is there a trick to tightening it? I’m tightening the non-tag ends first and then the tag ends, and then trimming the knot.

Spit on it, and tighten everybody at the same time slooooooowly. Works for me. Have you tried tying it with a tool?  You can use your forceps. Align the two pieces (leader and tippet) and make a "U" of them, with the right side of the U being the end of the tippet. Hold the U in your left hand between thumb and index finger acroos the top of the U.  Insert the forceps and twist twice (or three times for a triple surgeons knot). Then grab the tag end of the leader and the long end of the tippet (the right side of the U) and draw them through.  Grab the leader and long tippet end and pull to tighten.  Then do the same with the tag ends.  I usually spit on the knot (or stick it in the water) for lubrication.  I have never had this knot fail. Once you practice it, you can tie it, tighten it, clip it and be ready to tie on a fly in 30 seconds. Dave LaCourse

Response:

I’m sure I’m tying it right — just two overhand knots with the tag ends. What’s going on? Is there a trick to tightening it? I’m tightening the non-tag ends first and then the tag ends, and then trimming the knot.

Pulling the non-tag ends is the worst thing to do.  As the knot tightens, the tippet is pulled through the knot and is heated and crushed by the heavier leader.  The failure point ends up a millimetre or so below the knot where the tippet has been thinned the most.  As Ken has said, pull all simultaneously and keep the knot wet. Sometimes it’s hard to get a tight knot.  In that case take the tippet tag end and pull it down against the knot to snug things up. Cheers Visit The Streamer Page at http://www.cgocable.net/~pcharles/index.html

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -Ken Fortenberry: I’m sure I’m tying it right — just two overhand knots with the tag ends. What’s going on? Is there a trick to tightening it? I’m tightening the non-tag ends first and then the tag ends, and then trimming the knot. Spit on it, and tighten everybody at the same time slooooooowly. Works for me. Have you tried tying it with a tool?  You can use your forceps. Align the two pieces (leader and tippet) and make a "U" of them, with the right side of the U being the end of the tippet. Hold the U in your left hand between thumb and index finger acroos the top of the U.  Insert the forceps and twist twice (or three times for a triple surgeons knot). Then grab the tag end of the leader and the long end of the tippet (the right side of the U) and draw them through.  Grab the leader and long tippet end and pull to tighten.  Then do the same with the tag ends.  I usually spit on the knot (or stick it in the water) for lubrication.  I have never had this knot fail. Once you practice it, you can tie it, tighten it, clip it and be ready to tie on a fly in 30 seconds. Dave LaCourse

Dave I see we are complete agreement. <g  Nothing like confusing the rookies, eh? Peter

Response:

Spit on it, and tighten everybody at

the same time slooooooowly.< Works for me.

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Question:

I would like to fly from Aruba to Venezuela and stay in Maracaibo. I need info on Maracaibo and a place to stay. Please write if you can help me. Thanks.

Response:

You could probably charter a fishing boat, fih your way across and schedule a return cheaper than flying.  <GRIN On my last trip we went fishing and were within swiming distance of Venezula.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -I would like to fly from Aruba to Venezuela and stay in Maracaibo. I need info on Maracaibo and a place to stay. Please write if you can help me. Thanks.

Response:

Hi, I am planning a ~7 day trip to Venezuela shortly. I’d like to get a glimpse of the country but will probably only have time for the coast – Merida, the mountains, the Amazon, etc. will have to wait for next time. I’ll only have time to either head east of Caracas, or west of Caracas – which is more interesting? I’d rather stay away from super-touristy-commercialized places. Also, I understand the security in situation in the Caracas is less than good. How are things outside the city – can a gringo (who speaks Spanish) survive? I know things always look and sound worse from the outside. Thanks a bunch, Aviv

Response:

I think is too late to respond, you are probably here… Visit East side. And yes, you can survive outside Caracas. I know things always look and sound worse from the outside.

It’s true, but be carefull. A Dios J Alberto  ccs-ve — – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Hi, I am planning a ~7 day trip to Venezuela shortly. I’d like to get a glimpse of the country but will probably only have time for the coast – Merida, the mountains, the Amazon, etc. will have to wait for next time. I’ll only have time to either head east of Caracas, or west of Caracas – which is more interesting? I’d rather stay away from super-touristy-commercialized places. Also, I understand the security in situation in the Caracas is less than good. How are things outside the city – can a gringo (who speaks Spanish) survive? I know things always look and sound worse from the outside. Thanks a bunch, Aviv

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Question:

I’m interested in submitting some pictures for magazines but not sure how to do it.  Anyone know anything about this? bruce

Response:

I’m interested in submitting some pictures for magazines but not sure how to do it.  Anyone know anything about this? bruce

Hi Bruce Most of the magazines I deal with request slides of the topic. One of the things I discovered caused me to start shooting my slide differently. Before working for magazine editors I always shot my slides for inclusion in slide shows and preferred them to be a little denser rather than the opposite. The editors I work with prefer a slide that a bit lighter than what I used to call normal. I now shoot my slides at a lower ASA rating than the film calls for (ASA 400 shot at 375). One way to sell your photo’s is to call the editor, let him know what you have, and arrange to send him/her samples. Good luck. If you want me to look your photo’s over, email me and we’ll see what we can arrange. — Tight Lines Al Beatty BT’s Fly Fishing Products Bozeman, MT (97 materials catalog) http://www.flyshop.com/Expo/Specialty/BTsPdcts/index.html

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Your best bet is to shoot slow speed slide film.  KR64 is the the traditional favorite and you can’t go wrong with this. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I’m interested in submitting some pictures for magazines but not sure how to do it.  Anyone know anything about this? bruce

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Bruce The first thing you do is write the magazine you’re interested in–typically the managing editor–and ask for a copy of their editorial guidelines. Some buy most of their pictures from outside sources, many only use pictures shot by the folks writing the story. Just depends. Most will prefer you write a letter describing what you want to sell rather than getting a box of slides–no one wants to be responsible for your slides unless they ask for them. yeah most won’t buy prints but  some will. Once you see rates you may give up on this by the way. Only a relative handful of folks pay enough for pictures to justify owning a camera. Good luck — www.geocities.com/~tarponguide

Response:

: Most of the magazines I deal with request slides of the topic. One of the : things I discovered caused me to start shooting my slide differently. : Before working for magazine editors I always shot my slides for inclusion : in slide shows and preferred them to be a little denser rather than the : opposite. The editors I work with prefer a slide that a bit lighter than : what I used to call normal. I now shoot my slides at a lower ASA rating : than the film calls for (ASA 400 shot at 375). I’m sure my experience with magazine photos is much more limited than Al’s but I agree with the advice about lighter photos… at least I think that is what Al was saying by making the photos less dense.  Dark negs or slides I’ve submitted print up even darker in a magazine.  But I might have Al’s comments wrong, because I underexpose my film to make a lighter slide, which translates into moving the ASA setting on the camera a notch higher (e.g. 425 rather than 400) rather than Al’s suggestion to go lower. Did I miss something Al? — Rick T. Rick Fletcher   –   http://www.chem.uidaho.edu/~fletcher/ Associate professor of chemistry  |  That’s Idaho, not Iowa.    | ad hominem University of Idaho               |  Upper Left Hand Corner.    | ad hominem Moscow, ID 83844-2343             |  No, I don’t grow potatoes. | ad hominem

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -Leitheiser) writes: Normally "best" results are obtained with reversal films by overexposing a 1/2 stop or so, ie. shoot a 400 film at EI 350 or so. This keeps the shadows from being too dark…course it depends a bit <<snip   : Most of the magazines I deal with request slides of the topic. One of the : things I discovered caused me to start shooting my slide differently. : Before working for magazine editors I always shot my slides for inclusion : in slide shows and preferred them to be a little denser rather than the : opposite. The editors I work with prefer a slide that a bit lighter than : what I used to call normal. I now shoot my slides at a lower ASA rating : than the film calls for (ASA 400 shot at 375). I’m sure my experience with magazine photos is much more limited than Al’s but I agree with the advice about lighter photos… at least I think that is what Al was saying by making the photos less dense.  Dark negs or slides I’ve submitted print up even darker in a magazine.  But I might have Al’s comments wrong, because I underexpose my film to make a lighter slide, which translates into moving the ASA setting on the camera a notch higher (e.g. 425 rather than 400) rather than Al’s suggestion to go lower. Did I miss something Al? — Rick T. Rick Fletcher   –  

Dense NEAGATIVES "print" lighter…Dense SLIDES "print" darker. I think you guys are meaning to say the same thing but are mixing positives and David Jones

Response:

1) There is a simple way of keeping "exposures" straight when dealing with any camera: bracket your shot: that is shoot three shots, one normal, one a half-stop over exposed and one a half stop underexposed. 2) If you cannot bracket here are some basic guidelines:    For color slides, "open up a stop, especially in clear sunny weather where the shadows will loose their detail quite quickly because they are 2 to three stops darker than sunlight. This is particularly with Kodachrome film, which is processed differently than the E-6 films such as Fuji or Ektachromes. And despite what most people say, no E6 processed film can be as sharp as Kodachrome because of the way it’s processed. 3)  For prints, there is more latitude in overall exposure because some exposure problems can be corrected when printing. 4)  Like Al Beatty, always "open" up a stop for photographs intended for publications. Magazines – and slide shows for that matter – do not like black shadows! Good shooting! 3)

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Bob makes some good suggestions, especially about using a fill-in flash for outdoor slide work with close-up subjects.  Although art departments can "improve" a sloppy slide, I believe editors generally like the slides to be good to begin with….  Helps you get past the gate keeper. Once upon a time, Kodachrome 64 (and to a lesser extent Kodakchrome 25) were standards for outdoor magazine work.  Most outdoor magazine photographers that I knew would set the ASA at one setting under when shooting kodakchrome so as to slightly underexpose the slide and get rich, deep colour tones for printing in magazines. Nowadays, many (if not virtually all) outdoor photographers shooting for magazine publication use one of the modern E-6 films, for example Velvia 50 or Provia 100.  Most shoot this modern E-6 film dead on.  [It has taken me a while to adjust from Kodachrome--expensive in film .] A friend of mine who is a professional outdoor and nature photographer in PEI, will occasionally shoot the Velvia 50 *slightly* over-exposed in order to reduce the contrast (i.e., the surrealistic drenching colours).  I hear that Velvia 50 shoots well "pushed" but have yet to experiment with it. Boy, it sure gives nice results if you get the exposure right! Anyhow, this might all be of historic curiosity value if what I hear is true, in another few years, computer technology will have made slide and other film obsolete! One last thing:  whether for magazine publication, books or slides shows that you put on at your local club, I would encourage everybody to take as nice slides as possible of this your _favourite_ sport.  A good picture is worth a 1000 words and I believe that tasteful, good quality pictures of our favourite outdoor recreation help politically promote this sport and mobilize the political and economic resources to preserve (and if necessary restore) habitat–vital to good sport fisheries. Off my box!

: Been following this thread and thoght I’d throw my two pennies in. I : publish a magazine so I’ve had a smidgeon of experience re reproducing : photos, both slide and prints. : All slides, for that matter even all prints, will be scanned by a computer : operator into Photoshop, where they can be lightened, darkened, made more : contrasty, do color corrections, whatever the art department determines is : necessary preparatory to going to press. My opinion: shoot it normal, just : like you were gonna use it for  slide show. Or if you can afford a lot of : shots, then bracket the shot both sides of normal exposure. : I really like to keep things simple, and shooting normally is the : simplest. Let the art department make any corrections they want or need : and don’t try to do it with altering ASA numbers. If you find that the : photos are coming out dark in the printed magazine, it is because the art : department has not adjusted the contrast or brightness correctly. It’s : generally not the photographers fault. In fact, a good art department can : improve the looks of a bad photo to make it look good, probably as much as : 50% better. : Also, just a suggestion, when shooting outdoors, I use a fill flash on : almost every shot. It makes a world of difference and really gives a three : dimensional feel to the shot. Try it and you’ll see. : Bob Vorel — Burnaby, BC

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: Most of the magazines I deal with request slides of the topic. One of the : opposite. The editors I work with prefer a slide that a bit lighter than : what I used to call normal. I now shoot my slides at a lower ASA rating have Al’s comments wrong, because I underexpose my film to make a lighter slide, which translates into moving the ASA setting on the camera a notch higher (e.g. 425 rather than 400) rather than Al’s suggestion to go lower.

This corresponds, I think, to what I have seen reccomended, i.e., use of a high contrast film.  Underexposure should produce a higher contrast image. -Burton

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I’m sure my experience with magazine photos is much more limited than Al’s but I agree with the advice about lighter photos… at least I think that is what Al was saying by making the photos less dense.  Dark negs or slides I’ve submitted print up even darker in a magazine.  But I might have Al’s comments wrong, because I underexpose my film to make a lighter slide, which translates into moving the ASA setting on the camera a notch higher (e.g. 425 rather than 400) rather than Al’s suggestion to go lower. Did I miss something Al? — Rick T. Rick Fletcher   –   http://www.chem.uidaho.edu/~fletcher/

I believe Al is correct, Rick.  By setting the ASA lower the camera thinks you are using slower film and will open the lens up more, or tell you to open the lens up,to compensate. This will give you a less dense,lighter slide.  TRy it.  I think you’ll like it. Paul

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Been following this thread and thoght I’d throw my two pennies in. I publish a magazine so I’ve had a smidgeon of experience re reproducing photos, both slide and prints. All slides, for that matter even all prints, will be scanned by a computer operator into Photoshop, where they can be lightened, darkened, made more contrasty, do color corrections, whatever the art department determines is necessary preparatory to going to press. My opinion: shoot it normal, just like you were gonna use it for  slide show. Or if you can afford a lot of shots, then bracket the shot both sides of normal exposure. I really like to keep things simple, and shooting normally is the simplest. Let the art department make any corrections they want or need and don’t try to do it with altering ASA numbers. If you find that the photos are coming out dark in the printed magazine, it is because the art department has not adjusted the contrast or brightness correctly. It’s generally not the photographers fault. In fact, a good art department can improve the looks of a bad photo to make it look good, probably as much as 50% better. Also, just a suggestion, when shooting outdoors, I use a fill flash on almost every shot. It makes a world of difference and really gives a three dimensional feel to the shot. Try it and you’ll see. Bob Vorel

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- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – : Most of the magazines I deal with request slides of the topic. One of the : things I discovered caused me to start shooting my slide differently. : Before working for magazine editors I always shot my slides for inclusion : in slide shows and preferred them to be a little denser rather than the : opposite. The editors I work with prefer a slide that a bit lighter than : what I used to call normal. I now shoot my slides at a lower ASA rating : than the film calls for (ASA 400 shot at 375). I’m sure my experience with magazine photos is much more limited than Al’s but I agree with the advice about lighter photos… at least I think that is what Al was saying by making the photos less dense.  Dark negs or slides I’ve submitted print up even darker in a magazine.  But I might have Al’s comments wrong, because I underexpose my film to make a lighter slide, which translates into moving the ASA setting on the camera a notch higher (e.g. 425 rather than 400) rather than Al’s suggestion to go lower. Did I miss something Al? — Rick T. Rick Fletcher   –   http://www.chem.uidaho.edu/~fletcher/ Associate professor of chemistry  |  That’s Idaho, not Iowa.    | ad hominem University of Idaho               |  Upper Left Hand Corner.    | ad hominem Moscow, ID 83844-2343             |  No, I don’t grow potatoes. | ad hominem

Actually,  to make a slide lighter (thinner, less dense) you expose it more; that is, you set a lower ASA.  That way the camera gives it more exposure.  The same for negatives.  As you give them more exposure the negative itseld gets denser, which when printed results in a lighter print.  All within limits, of course.  Bill Mack

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Normally "best" results are obtained with reversal films by overexposing a 1/2 stop or so, ie. shoot a 400 film at EI 350 or so. This keeps the shadows from being too dark…course it depends a bit on your metering technique.  So many publications are scanning direct from the negative or slide now that it shouldn’t make any difference because of all the digital manipulation (now there is a catchy phrase) that they can do with the original.  Is that what reading how to/where to go complete with illustrations is?  FFing digital manipulation?   – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – : Most of the magazines I deal with request slides of the topic. One of the : things I discovered caused me to start shooting my slide differently. : Before working for magazine editors I always shot my slides for inclusion : in slide shows and preferred them to be a little denser rather than the : opposite. The editors I work with prefer a slide that a bit lighter than : what I used to call normal. I now shoot my slides at a lower ASA rating : than the film calls for (ASA 400 shot at 375). I’m sure my experience with magazine photos is much more limited than Al’s but I agree with the advice about lighter photos… at least I think that is what Al was saying by making the photos less dense.  Dark negs or slides I’ve submitted print up even darker in a magazine.  But I might have Al’s comments wrong, because I underexpose my film to make a lighter slide, which translates into moving the ASA setting on the camera a notch higher (e.g. 425 rather than 400) rather than Al’s suggestion to go lower. Did I miss something Al? — Rick T. Rick Fletcher   –   http://www.chem.uidaho.edu/~fletcher/ Associate professor of chemistry  |  That’s Idaho, not Iowa.    | ad hominem University of Idaho               |  Upper Left Hand Corner.    | ad hominem Moscow, ID 83844-2343             |  No, I don’t grow potatoes. | ad hominem

Mike in PDX "When the trout are lost, smash the state."                           Tom McGuane

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Question:

One thing to consider if you want to FF from a canoe is that you’ll be only marginally higher out of the water than if you are in a float tube; you can stand up in a cartopper, but a canoe …. Consequently, you might want to consider a longer rod (as the tubers often pack). A 10ft rod will keep your backcast drier than an 8ft one. Or, preferably, work on your casting to keep the back cast out of the water.   Sitting in a canoe you’re at least as high out of the water as you typically are when wading.  So, if you’re hitting the water behind you in a canoe, you’re almost certainly doing the same thing when wading–i.e., you casting could use some help. And improving your casting is cheaper than buying another, longer rod. Emil

I would have to agree there.  Canoes are great.  I use one on Lake Cayuga in NY, and I dont know about anyone else, but if you are somewhat able, I have never had any problems standing. Jon

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I’ve found that if you’re right-handed, it helps to cast from the right side of the canoe, parallel with its length, i.e. not across the beam. And try not to let the stripped line get tangled up in the paddle, float jacket and six-pack and/or your ankle in the bottom of the boat. When the mother of all basses hits, you don’t want to be pulled overboard to your doom like some freshwater Captain Ahab. Course, I could think of worse ways to go…. Sent Via SportsNet On-Line Services Toronto’s Premier Sports and Recreation Service Modem: 416-223-2463    Phone: 416-223-2250 Ext. 33

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Good for you!  I’m convinced float tubes became popular when folks no longer had time to lean to paddle.  For range, keeping dry and all-round fun canoes are are wonderful.  now if you want to get really frisky learn to pole upstream. — ** Louis Bignami, Publisher         http://www.finefishing.com Fine Fishing Internet Magazine                "largest fishing mag on the Net" **

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best thing about fishing from a canoe…even if the fish aren’t bitin’ you’re, well, in that canoe… Tim Walker

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Personally, I love canoes too,they are just prettier and much more versatile than any other watercraft, especially when you add options to a standard canoe. Consider these advantages: -Canoes are inherently more hydrodynamic than a john boat, and move through the water with less effort (how much less depends on hull shape.) -Because they’re streamlined at both ends, canoes move forward easily yet still easily "hold" in a good spot against a swift river current hitting the stern. -A kneeling canoeist can be as stealthy as a float tuber and cover much more water. (Though admittedly, a float tuber can move without having to put the rod down.) – A long, narrow, fast canoe can be converted to a "john boat like"  slow, stable craft by adding solid foam or inflatable sponsons (aka swimmies or water wings). These canoe ‘training wheels’ install in seconds and may not add much drag at all.  They’re a God send when you want to stand up to spot fish or when running unfamiliar big rapids. -Adding gunnel mounted oarlocks or a rowing frame to an already fast canoe will get the lone angler across the lake or up the river faster than any other non-motorized fishing craft (including a kayak). – There are "collapsible canoes" available from Ally and ScanSports which can store in a closet, or travel in the trunk of compact car, a float plane or as checked baggage on an airliner. -You can add a motor mount to almost any canoe for long hauls against wind or current. I could go on, but if you’re only going to get one craft to handle every possible fly fishing situation, get a canoe.  This doesn’t rule out the possibility that for the type of fishing you do most, another craft may be just as good or better.  You be the judge. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – When considering a canoe for fishing, make sure you can easily paddle it. Beamy boats are great for short hauls but if you’re going to where the fish are and the other guys in the beamy boats aren’t get a boat that you can paddle.  A solo boat is okay if you don’t have or don’t want any friends.  Suggest a boat in the 14 to 15 foot range that could handle a center paddling position ( add a seat yourself) and then you’d have a boat that could get you there. Good tumblehome to make paddling a little easier.  Suggest learning to fish from the seated or kneeling position…or if you’re real good try standing on the gunwhales 8/]) TK

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: When considering a canoe for fishing, make sure you can easily paddle it. : Beamy boats are great for short hauls but if you’re going to where the : fish are and the other guys in the beamy boats aren’t get a boat that you : can paddle.  A solo boat is okay if you don’t have or don’t want any : friends.  Suggest a boat in the 14 to 15 foot range that could handle a : center paddling position ( add a seat yourself) and then you’d have a boat : that could get you there. Good tumblehome to make paddling a little : easier.  Suggest learning to fish from the seated or kneeling : position…or if you’re real good try standing on the gunwhales 8/]) One thing to consider if you want to FF from a canoe is that you’ll be only marginally higher out of the water than if you are in a float tube; you can stand up in a cartopper, but a canoe …. Consequently, you might want to consider a longer rod (as the tubers often pack). A 10ft rod will keep your backcast drier than an 8ft one. — 3798 Woodland Drive     voice: (604) 368-9315 Trail, BC               data:  (604) 368-9341

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– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – : When considering a canoe for fishing, make sure you can easily paddle it. : Beamy boats are great for short hauls but if you’re going to where the : fish are and the other guys in the beamy boats aren’t get a boat that you : can paddle.  A solo boat is okay if you don’t have or don’t want any : friends.  Suggest a boat in the 14 to 15 foot range that could handle a : center paddling position ( add a seat yourself) and then you’d have a boat : that could get you there. Good tumblehome to make paddling a little : easier.  Suggest learning to fish from the seated or kneeling : position…or if you’re real good try standing on the gunwhales 8/]) One thing to consider if you want to FF from a canoe is that you’ll be only marginally higher out of the water than if you are in a float tube; you can stand up in a cartopper, but a canoe …. Consequently, you might want to consider a longer rod (as the tubers often pack). A 10ft rod will keep your backcast drier than an 8ft one.

Or, preferably, work on your casting to keep the back cast out of the water.   Sitting in a canoe you’re at least as high out of the water as you typically are when wading.  So, if you’re hitting the water behind you in a canoe, you’re almost certainly doing the same thing when wading–i.e., you casting could use some help. And improving your casting is cheaper than buying another, longer rod. Emil Department of Education Phone:  (607) 255-2267 419 Kennedy Hall                Fax:    (607) 255-7905 Cornell University Ithaca, NY 14853

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‘Course, I just think that canoes are wonderful so I’m biased. I can also cast 50′ easily from a sitting position, about as far as I need

to. Any recomemndations for the best 1 person canoe for streams and rivers? Thanx, Mike

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‘Course, I just think that canoes are wonderful so I’m biased. I can also cast 50′ easily from a sitting position, about as far as I need to. Any recomemndations for the best 1 person canoe for streams and rivers? Thanx, Mike

Mike,  I would take a serious look at the OldTown line of canoes. They have a few models that are ideal for your situation. I have the Dicovery 133K and it is a dream to fish from. The ruggedness coupled with the 40 1/2" beam makes it a great fly fishing vessel.                                     Best of Luck,                                                    Jay              /Leave nothing but footprints                                               /                                              /                                             /                                            /                                           /                                       O  /                                       |_/o                                       |                                      / |

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Question:

What are the flyfishing opertunities in the Galveston area? I will be there the week of May 15 and am considering trying salt water flyfishing if there are possibilities. Is there a local shop that can provide information?

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As a Damn Yankee (and proud of it) who spends some time around Houston this is a question that interests me as well.  For f’fishing, try Orvis in Houston, Galleria area.  They’re helpful and friendly.  I’ve also been to Cut Rate Tackle, and they definitely cater to the salt water fisherman, though not so much w/flies.  Christmas Bay is supposed to be good, but I have the feeling that this is not particularly new information.

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| What are the flyfishing opertunities in the Galveston area? I will be there | the week of May 15 and am considering trying salt water flyfishing if there | are possibilities. Is there a local shop that can provide information? In Houston, there are some shops that could help you out. Orvis Houston 783-2111 Angler’s Edge 993-9981 Either one should be able to help you with information or advice on getting a guide. — Ray

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Question:

Geez.   One extremely well-written post about the impact of campfires and 4 sub-posts about how rocks can explode.  Seems like the point is being missed. I agree with Rick.   Everything we do has an impact of some kind.  Unless we’re willing to completely vacate the backcountry,  arguing about fires is truly splitting hairs. In high backcountry I continue to obey a self-enforced policy of no fires.  I agree with those who say that you’re more in touch with nature without the glare of flames.  At the same time, there are times a fire is a natural and morally acceptable practice, and a welcome companion on a cold or wet night.   I say, use your own judgement.  If you have none, I’ll spend a bit more time cleaning up after you.  It’s a small price to pay for the wilderness. Jim Stallings  - Seabeck, Washington "Concrete is heavy; iron is hard – but the grass will prevail"   Ed Abbey

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- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Scott Stuart) writes:   NOTE- I don’t think I have to say, but just in case….  DONT use rocks   from the lake in your fire ring, they will explode, and send deadly   shrapnel and hot coals everywhere.   What’s all this about exploding rocks? Believe me, THEY DO EXPLODE! One time I was backpacking with my friends and we had to make a small camp site (we couldn’t find any on the trail).  I used some of the larger rocks near a small stream to make our campfire ring. It was 1-2 hrs after we got the fire started, that one of the rocks cracked (from steam preasure inside). Nobody was hurt (suprised though) but next time I know better where to find my campfire rocks! Kurt

Nah, let them NOT believe you and see it for themselves.  It’s the only way some people learn.

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:    NOTE- I don’t think I have to say, but just in case….  DONT use rocks :    from the lake in your fire ring, they will explode, and send deadly :    shrapnel and hot coals everywhere.   : What’s all this about exploding rocks?  While packing in the Porky’s in the UP of Mi we built a fire ring with  rocks from the creek. Well never again,after sitting down to a meal  the damm fire blew up in our face. As luck/fate would have it no one  got hurt but several in our group had holes in there clothing from  flying rocks. In short don’t use wet rocks since there have retained  water in them and when heated steam builds up in them which means  pressure builds up in them and you get the picture by now.  Hopes this helps  Ike Grill somewhere in Wisconsin and still have sight.

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  NOTE- I don’t think I have to say, but just in case….  DONT use rocks   from the lake in your fire ring, they will explode, and send deadly   shrapnel and hot coals everywhere.   What’s all this about exploding rocks?

Believe me, THEY DO EXPLODE! One time I was backpacking with my friends and we had to make a small camp site (we couldn’t find any on the trail).  I used some of the larger rocks near a small stream to make our campfire ring. It was 1-2 hrs after we got the fire started, that one of the rocks cracked (from steam preasure inside). Nobody was hurt (suprised though) but next time I know better where to find my campfire rocks! Kurt

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(Joseph Scott Stuart) writes: What’s all this about exploding rocks?

"Creek rocks!" – (I’m sure someone will correct me if I get this wrong) Yes, exploding rocks.  A rock that’s been submerged (particularly   something porous like sandstone) is soaked with water.  If you put it in a   fire, it heats up.  If it heats up, too quickly for the water to escape   (which is a likely condition) the rapidly expanding water vapor inside the   rock will cause it to "explode" – marvelous "fun" about a campfire for   those so inclined… but something I would prefer to avoid. – Mark

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   NOTE- I don’t think I have to say, but just in case….  DONT use rocks    from the lake in your fire ring, they will explode, and send deadly    shrapnel and hot coals everywhere.   What’s all this about exploding rocks?

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        In light of the most recent rearing of the ugly head of anti-campfire zealots, I feel compeled to post what I know about minimizing campfire impact.  But first, an introduction and a caveat.         I don’t dispute the fact that fires do quite a bit of damage to the environment.  Allowing campfires in heavily-impacted areas is very often a mistake, due to the many problems associated with both the combustion process and the act of building the fire itself- such as trampling around the undergrowth and scarring (most often permanently) fire ring rocks.  I support fire bans in high-use areas for these reasons.  I would include nearly all well-known back-country areas stateside in my list of fire-ban areas, since they get alot of use.  Moreover, nearly any high-country worth backpacking is fragile enough to make a fire ban neccessary.         BUT, fire bans are NOT appropriate in all areas.  Zealots like those who posit that all fire-builders are selfish are being incredibly short-sited and self absorbed.  Not everyone limits travels to a) backpacking, b) heavy- use areas, c) the USA, and d) trips of short duration (read: less than one week).         A few posters have noted that they, like I, rely almost exclusively on fires for trips in Far northern Saskatchewan and Manitoba.  By far northern I mean north of the Churchill river- and my favorite area- the Wollaston Lk, Cochran River area.  This is heavily wooded (although 50 or so miles south of the tundra), heavily forest-fire burnt (every area has evidence of fire within about 30 years), and rarely traveled since the voyageurs used the rivers as fur trading routes.           These trips are over thirty days in length, making it totally impractical to carry fuel.  You couldn’t carry enough of it, for one. You wouldn’t want to risk a spill when there are weeks of paddling in between even native settlements.  And, you generally wouldn’t be able to afford the cost of the fuel.  Moreover, cooking for six people over a stove is futile for heavy-calorie meal prep.   Not to mention the fact that I never had to stray  more than twenty feet from the site to find bone-dry driftwood laying either on the beaches (in the north) or on the rocks (on the shield), in enormous quantities. Presented with the above, in addition to the impact of burning the fossil fuels and inevitable spills of fuel on VERY fragile Caribou moss, I opt for the fires.  Any arguments to the effect of the "more efficient burning" of stoves or "quicker boiling time" are just splitting hairs. Anyone who has been in a similar situation with similar numbers is welcome to disagree.  Theorists can continue to theorize…  ’nuff said.           The Impact of fires, given the above, needs to be minimized.  Any traveler who manages to GET to this area cares enough to want to preserve it.  [Ask me sometime about the two day all dirt road trip to my dropoff point on Wollaston.]  Part of the joy of this area is the feeling of solitude that comes from such a pristine wilderness- and anyone who is there is immediately faced with the enormous responsibility to preserve it.  Many of the natives and non-native fly-in fishing guides and non-native camps pollute their nests with "shore lunch’ fires using HUGE chunks of driftwood left half-burnt on shore,  toss fish innards all over the place, and generally behave with the abandon of 19th century humankind when they were faced with the seemingly endless ocean- and treated it like a bottomless wastecan.           Ok. So if you DO get up there- or you DO make a decision to use fires- what do you do to minimize the impact?  I’ll do it point by point: 1) Gather only fallen, dead wood.  Never break off branches (even from "dead" trees still standing).  Walk at least 100 yds away from the campsite before beginning to gather. 2). Know your woods.  Pine burns fast and hot- birch slow and cool.  Pine and hardwoods are better for starting fires, which can then be maintained with bigger, slower-burning woods like birch.  LOTS of wood is wasted by people trying to start fires with the wrong wood.  Moreover, the right wood on a proper set of coals will burn very efficiently, indeed.  And with little smoke. 3) Fire rings-                 A). Always used established fire rings where available.  If none are available:                 B). Sod turning technique:  Clear away duff.  Cut out a rectangle about 4-6 inches deep in the earth.  Build the fire in the hole.  Make sure (as ALWAYS) that the fire is OUT COMPLETELY, then replace the rectangle back in the hole.  This technique’s advantage is that it is VERY low-impact, but if you like to burn dishwater or food scraps, you run the risk of critters unearthing your cinders.  You can line the hole with rocks, but they will be scarred black and unsightly.  If you do use the rocks, you can either bury them or "lake" them when cold.                 C). Flat Rock Technique:  This was my favorite on the shield.  Find a flat rock, and build the fire on it.  It scars only that rock (or any others you use as wind shields, depending on conditions) which you can "lake."  Meaning, of course, that you toss it, when cold, into the lake, where mother nature will turn the scarred rock into dust in a few millenia. NOTE- I don’t think I have to say, but just in case….  DONT use rocks from the lake in your fire ring, they will explode, and send deadly shrapnel and hot coals everywhere.   4)  Size- Limit yourself to "cooking" fires- about the size of the bottom of your skillet.  And limit the size of your fuel to the diameter of a silver dollar.  These fires are plenty hot when well maintained- even in the June snows of Saskatchewan. 5) Try not to pollute other people’s environment- remember, a fire from across the lake is a reminder than you are not alone.  Some people like to feel alone.  So keep the fire small and as much out of site as is practical. 6) Consider using "fire sticks" or similar firestarters to cut down on kindling needs, especially on wet days. Hopefully this is useful information for the teeming masses.   ANY trip into the wilderness implies a gentle balance between impact and enjoyment.  To have any enjoyment by being someplace means that you have to, first, get there (by burning fossil fuels) and then, move around (trampling the underbrush or trail).  Not to mention the equipment most of us cart around.  If you want to get under a Patagonia Rep’s skin sometime, ask about the vats and vats of caustic slop that is left over after making out synchilla such pretty colors.  How about the boots? Either we kill off a bunch of cows, or we boil a bunch of dead dinosaurs and make a Texan rich.   One campfire isn’t going to do anywhere near as much environmental damage as the dye and industrial waste used to produce just ONE piece of polarfleece.  If we are serious enough to split hairs over campfires in the terms that we are using here ("all campfires are always bad and the people who make them are all selfish, we should all use stoves"), then I hope that we are serious enough to have educated ourselves as to the impact of the crap we cart around and the crap that we put on our pathetic, fragile, human bodies when out in the wild.  [BTW I mean ALL humans have fragile, pathetic bodies.  We don't fare well naked above the tropics or at altitude.]         In short- welcome to the real world folks- there is no such thing as zero impact.  This is not to throw the baby out with the bathwater. There is reason to minimize impact, not to give up and merely enjoy other people’s video travelogues (using electricity and plastic, but I digress…).  Minimizing impact may sometimes mean choosing the lesser of two evils, and reasonable people may differ as to the best choice of those evils.  There are about 5 different ways to walk through a mountain meadow, any one of which will garner the ire of adherents of the other 4.         Educate yourself as to the choices, and make what, in your judgement, is the best choice for your situation.  When the choices are close, don’t make the call for somebody else.

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Question:

Would the guy that posted about the Saltwater flyfishing trip for rockfish in the kelp beds off of Santa Cruz please followup with a valid email address?  I tried responding via email but it bounced.  I’m interested in the Livermore Flyfishers group that was mentioned. — John Fereira Pleasanton, CA

Response:

That’s a numeral one after my name. Kent McCammon Lightwave Systems Engineer Lawrence Livermore National Laboratory Just another crash dummy on the information superhighway

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