Question:

After finally purchasing most of the needed equipment, I was hoping to get poll on  knot’s others would use/recommend. I use a clinch knot. I think that 60% breakage figure is low. Make sure you lubricate the knot with a little spit before tightening. Willi

Arrrrrrrrrrrrggggggggggggguuuuuuuuuuuuuhhhhhhhhhhhh !!!!  You are kNot-Perfect!

Response:

I break off far more fish  (and bushes and trees) on my tippet to leader knot than I do at the hook eye knot (improved clinch for me). Of course, I am quite lazy and use a double surgeons knot instead of a blood knot for my tippet/leader connection, which probably explains that. Actually breaking off on anything is fairly rare with the stronger mono now in existence. The stuff I used  30 years ago was another matter. G.Cleveland – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – After finally purchasing most of the needed equipment,  spending hours practice casting, and reading everything I can find about fly-fishing, I’m almost ready to go. Some articles state that the clinch knot (for tying fly to tippet) is only 60% as strong as the tippet it is tied to. There also seems to be debate over whether improved version is actually better. Even so, it seems to be at the top of the list when looking at knot tying articles. After losing practice flies using this knot, I started tying uni-knot, but it takes longer  to tie. My knot tying ability and casing smoothness have both improved somewhat, and I plan to start actually fishing with improved clinch version. Set-up will be 5x tapered (sci. anglers 7 1/2 ft) tip with12-16 size flies with 5 wt wt-forward line. I was hoping to get poll on  knot’s others would use/recommend.

Response:

"william hughes" wrote… Set-up will be 5x tapered (sci. anglers 7 1/2 ft) tip with12-16 size flies with 5 wt wt-forward line.

All the info that everyone has given you about knots will serve you well.. apply it. One other thing you should consider is a longer leader for dry fly fishing for trout.  7-1/2 feet is short.  9′ and up would be better.   Joel Axelrad **DFD**

Response:

DON’T PULL ON THE TAG END!!! I think lubrication is overrated.

I believe these two lines are in the running for my favorite ROFF quotes of 2002. Of course the year is still young. : ) -eddie http://www.guidetracker.com Go Fish…

Response:

"william hughes" wrote… Set-up will be 5x tapered (sci. anglers 7 1/2 ft) tip with12-16 size flies with 5 wt wt-forward line. One other thing you should consider is a longer leader for dry fly fishing for trout.  7-1/2 feet is short.  9′ and up would be better.

Yep. What I do is buy 7.5′ 3X tapered leaders then use tippet material to build leaders anywhere from 8.5′ to 15′. Ernie Harrison’s little red thingy is good for this. What in the hell ever happened to Ernie ? Did he get his knickers in a twist over that "rod loading" bullshit ? — Ken Fortenberry

Response:

I use the improved clinch on smaller flies, but I find that it tends to slip on larger hooks.   I like the Trilene knot for big stuff.  My rule of thumb is if the hook eye is big enough to get the line through it twice, I use the trilene knot, otherwise I use the improved clinch knot. Kevin

I use neither and I certainly stopped using the clinch knot many, many, many years ago.  I have never used a knot that has cost me more lost fish than the damned clinch knot.  It is a stupid knot, a lazy knot, and only uneducated knot makers use it. I suppose with fishing LINES your rule of thumb would surfice but when it comes to dry flies and the hooks used in fly fishing, the amount of steel and drag used has a better scientific result determined by fifty years of testing by this author and it is this.  When a TIPPET can be thraded through the eye of the hook THREE TIMES, you have established the proper tippet diameter for that hook.  It is not correct to use an example that states, if your tippet material is .010 diameter it should slip through the eye of a .030 diameter hook.  However; if your tippet will squeeze through three times it works just fine.  That is three strands in a triangle configuration. There are physics involved that determine why this works but I’m not up to explaining it right now.  It simply works Kevin and it works wonderfully. I use ONE KNOT on all my flies and that is the Duncan Loop or Uni-Knot. I use FIVE turns through the loop and I snug the knot up to the tippet line without drawing the knot TO THE EYE OF THE HOOK.  When I put the Uni-Knot up to the eye, I leave a sixteenth of an inch of slack because I don’t wish to bottom the knot against the eye.  This way, my flies have movement as does my nymphs but especially my nymphs.   I have never, never lost a fish due to the 100% Uni-knot.  It has never come undone, it has never fail me in any way, shape or form. This IS the one knot any fly fisherman can stake their faith in any place on this planet.  This and the blood knot. Once a fish is hooked, the strike and weight of the fish draws the Uni-knot down to the eye of the hook for battle.   George Gehrke

Response:

One other thing you should consider is a longer leader for dry fly fishing for trout.  7-1/2 feet is short.  9′ and up would be better.

Especially in deeper or bigger water, I usually use a long leader when nymphing. I especially like to use a very long tippet. The thin tippet sinks much more readilly than the heavier sections of the leader and allows for easier strike detection and better control. Willi

Response:

There are physics involved that determine why this works but I’m not up to explaining it right now.  

Well, color me surprised… Kevin — Check out the Pike Clave Website: <http://www.misu.nodak.edu/~vang/PikeClave/

Response:

most of the tests I’ve seen on the clinch report 85 to 90% usually towatrds the higher number. The improved gets the strength up to about 95%. A stronger knot is the trilene. With any knot make sure you use the correct number of turns for the strength of tippet material. I suggest you consult a book or article by Lefty Kreh as I’ve found what he writes about knots to be the most reliable. RalphH

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – After finally purchasing most of the needed equipment,  spending hours practice casting, and reading everything I can find about fly-fishing, I’m almost ready to go. Some articles state that the clinch knot (for tying fly to tippet) is only 60% as strong as the tippet it is tied to. There also seems to be debate over whether improved version is actually better. Even so, it seems to be at the top of the list when looking at knot tying articles. After losing practice flies using this knot, I started tying uni-knot, but it takes longer  to tie. My knot tying ability and casing smoothness have both improved somewhat, and I plan to start actually fishing with improved clinch version. Set-up will be 5x tapered (sci. anglers 7 1/2 ft) tip with12-16 size flies with 5 wt wt-forward line. I was hoping to get poll on  knot’s others would use/recommend.

Response:

Make sure your tippet material is in good shape. It deteriorates with age, especially if it’s exposed to sunlight.

        now *that’s* the truth.  and probably the primary reason for the failure of *any* knot. your friend in the old north state wayno

Response:

I use ONE KNOT on all my flies and that is the Duncan Loop or Uni-Knot.

        how neat.  i use only one knot, myself.  the improved clinch. well, just goes to show that two great fishermen can differ—right, george? I have never, never lost a fish due to the 100% Uni-knot.  It has never come undone, it has never fail me in any way, shape or form. This IS the one knot any fly fisherman can stake their faith in any place on this planet.  This and the blood knot.

        how telling.  you know what one half of a blood knot is, don’t you, george?  that’s right:  an improved clinch.         i just knew we’d find a common ground. wayno

Response:

I was hoping to get poll on  knot’s others would use/recommend.

Most of the guides I’ve hired (especially the ones who are aggressive about changing flies) use the regular clinch knot. Whether it’s as strong as the improved clinch knot I don’t know, but it’s sure easier for me to tie, especially with fine tippets. If I’m changing flies a lot I use it. DON’T PULL ON THE TAG END!!! I think lubrication is overrated. If you tighten the knot slowly and carefully lubrication is unnecessary, IMHO. Make sure your tippet material is in good shape. It deteriorates with age, especially if it’s exposed to sunlight. — visit my web site: http://home.earthlink.net/~royalwulff/

Response:

I was hoping to get poll on  knot’s others would use/recommend.

I use the improved clinch on smaller flies, but I find that it tends to slip on larger hooks.   I like the Trilene knot for big stuff.  My rule of thumb is if the hook eye is big enough to get the line through it twice, I use the trilene knot, otherwise I use the improved clinch knot. Kevin — Check out the Pike Clave Website: <http://www.misu.nodak.edu/~vang/PikeClave/

Response:

After finally purchasing most of the needed equipment,  spending hours practice casting, and reading everything I can find about fly-fishing, I’m almost ready to go. Some articles state that the clinch knot (for tying fly to tippet) is only 60% as strong as the tippet it is tied to.

That is odd.  A few quick experiments should tell you if you’re tying them that weak. After losing practice flies using this knot, I started tying uni-knot, but it takes longer  to tie.

Hmm, I find it as easy, if not easier, to tie.

Response:

After finally purchasing most of the needed equipment,  spending hours practice casting, and reading everything I can find about fly-fishing, I’m almost ready to go. Some articles state that the clinch knot (for tying fly to tippet) is only 60% as strong as the tippet it is tied to. There also seems to be debate over whether improved version is actually better. Even so, it seems to be at the top of the list when looking at knot tying articles. After losing practice flies using this knot, I started tying uni-knot, but it takes longer  to tie. My knot tying ability and casing smoothness have both improved somewhat, and I plan to start actually fishing with improved clinch version. Set-up will be 5x tapered (sci. anglers 7 1/2 ft) tip with12-16 size flies with 5 wt wt-forward line. I was hoping to get poll on  knot’s others would use/recommend.

Response:

After finally purchasing most of the needed equipment,   I was hoping to get poll on  knot’s others would use/recommend.

I use a clinch knot. I think that 60% breakage figure is low. Make sure you lubricate the knot with a little spit before tightening. Willi

Response:

I use a clinch knot. I think that 60% breakage figure is low. Make sure you lubricate the knot with a little spit before tightening.

Same here…..five turns, well lubricated. Additional turns, or the "improvement" of pulling the tag end through the loop, seem to me to make the knot harder to tighten properly and more likely to unravel. The key is to make sure the knot is tight. George Adams "From the rockin’ of the cradle to the rollin’ of the hearse, the goin’ up was worth the comin’ down." ___Kris Kristofferson "The Pilgrim/Chapter 33"

Response:

William Hughes writes: After losing practice flies using this knot, I started tying uni-knot, but it takes longer  to tie. My knot tying ability and casing smoothness have both improved somewhat, and I plan to start actually fishing with improved After losing practice flies using this knot, I started tying uni-knot, but it takes longer  to tie. My knot tying ability and casing smoothness have both improved somewhat, and I plan to start actually fishing with improved

I have used the clinch knot for many years.  Never moved up to the improved clinch, and like you say, the uni-knot takes a little longer to tie (especially with arthritic hands).  If you tie the clinch correctly, lubricating the tippet before you pull the knot tight, it should not fail.  I have landed some very big fish with 5x tippet and the clinch knot.   Once you get the knot tightened and trimmed the tag end, pull on the fly to see if  the knot will hold.  Like tens of thousands of fly fishermen before you, the clinch knot should be all you will need. Dave

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – After finally purchasing most of the needed equipment,  spending hours practice casting, and reading everything I can find about fly-fishing, I’m almost ready to go. Some articles state that the clinch knot (for tying fly to tippet) is only 60% as strong as the tippet it is tied to. There also seems to be debate over whether improved version is actually better. Even so, it seems to be at the top of the list when looking at knot tying articles. After losing practice flies using this knot, I started tying uni-knot, but it takes longer  to tie. My knot tying ability and casing smoothness have both improved somewhat, and I plan to start actually fishing with improved clinch version. Set-up will be 5x tapered (sci. anglers 7 1/2 ft) tip with12-16 size flies with 5 wt wt-forward line. I was hoping to get poll on  knot’s others would use/recommend.

The Uni is quick and easy to tie – it you add one step.  Assuming you’re right handed, normally one threads the tippet into the eye of the hook and leaves about 3" of a tag.  Hold the eye of the hook, the tippet and the tag with the left thumb and forefinger.  Now wrap the tippet around your left index finger a couple of times.  This keeps the short length of tippet above the eye nice and taut, making it easier to form and thread the loop to finish the knot. HTH Peter Visit The Streamer Page at http://home.cogeco.ca/~pcharles/streamers/index.html

Response:

I agree with Dave et al…lubricating the knot is the key issue.  I don’t lose many trout because of knot problems. Eugene

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – William Hughes writes: After losing practice flies using this knot, I started tying uni-knot, but it takes longer  to tie. My knot tying ability and casing smoothness have both improved somewhat, and I plan to start actually fishing with improved After losing practice flies using this knot, I started tying uni-knot, but it takes longer  to tie. My knot tying ability and casing smoothness have both improved somewhat, and I plan to start actually fishing with improved I have used the clinch knot for many years.  Never moved up to the improved clinch, and like you say, the uni-knot takes a little longer to tie (especially with arthritic hands).  If you tie the clinch correctly, lubricating the tippet before you pull the knot tight, it should not fail.  I have landed some very big fish with 5x tippet and the clinch knot. Once you get the knot tightened and trimmed the tag end, pull on the fly to see if  the knot will hold.  Like tens of thousands of fly fishermen before you, the clinch knot should be all you will need. Dave

Response:

There are two things to keep in mind when tying the clinch knot.  1) lubricate it. 2) tighten it slowly.  Thightening (a new word?) the knot quickly will cause heat to build up in the mono and weaken the tippet. Chris Richer – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – William Hughes writes: After losing practice flies using this knot, I started tying uni-knot, but it takes longer  to tie. My knot tying ability and casing smoothness have both improved somewhat, and I plan to start actually fishing with improved After losing practice flies using this knot, I started tying uni-knot, but it takes longer  to tie. My knot tying ability and casing smoothness have both improved somewhat, and I plan to start actually fishing with improved I have used the clinch knot for many years.  Never moved up to the improved clinch, and like you say, the uni-knot takes a little longer to tie (especially with arthritic hands).  If you tie the clinch correctly, lubricating the tippet before you pull the knot tight, it should not fail.  I have landed some very big fish with 5x tippet and the clinch knot. Once you get the knot tightened and trimmed the tag end, pull on the fly to see if  the knot will hold.  Like tens of thousands of fly fishermen before you, the clinch knot should be all you will need. Dave

Response:

Set-up will be 5x tapered (sci. anglers 7 1/2 ft) tip with12-16 size flies with 5 wt wt-forward line. I was hoping to get poll on  knot’s others would use/recommend.

William, I count being knot-challenged amongst my various and sundry handicaps. Some days I just can’t seem to make a freaking clinch knot work, improved or otherwise. If the ratio of tippet diameter vs. hook-eye diameter allows, I always use a Palomar knot. This is a very simple knot to learn and is very strong. I don’t remember this knot ever failing me. For smaller flies, you (and I!) had better learn to tie the clinch. I have noticed a marked improvement in clinch knotting since I started using my forceps as a tying tool, I’m not sure why. Danl

Response:

After finally purchasing most of the needed equipment,  spending hours practice casting, and reading everything I can find about fly-fishing, I’m almost ready to go. Some articles state that the clinch knot (for tying fly to tippet) is only 60% as strong as the tippet it is tied to. There also seems to be debate over whether improved version is actually better. Even so, it seems to be at the top of the list when looking at knot tying articles.

William, For some time, I used the improved clinch knot. When I started getting into bigger fish, it seemed too many were breaking me off. I mentioned this to my local friendly flyshop owner one day and he told me he uses the regular clinch knot. He explained that the improved clinch is a stronger knot when tied properly, but many times during tying it can get twisted, and when it does, it becomes much weaker. So since that day, I’ve been happily using the standard clinch. The number of bigger fish breaking me off has been greatly reduced! As others have said, lubricate well and tighten slowly. After trimming the tag-end, always test the knot by gently pulling on the fly and tippet. Sometimes it looks like you’ve tied it correctly, but a pull will reveal a bad knot and the fly will come off the tippet. And it’s much better to find a bad knot by your pulling than by a trout’s! And yes, I’ve learned this tip the hard way! Fish on, my friend. Danny McMillin — Danny McMillin — Remove XX from email address to reduce spam.

Response:

There are two things to keep in mind when tying the clinch knot.  1) lubricate it. 2) tighten it slowly.  …

I would add a third, tighten by pulling the line end away from the eye and not by pulling on the tag end. I switched from an improved clinch to a clinch several years ago based on something I read here in ROFF. Works for me. — Ken Fortenberry

Response:

All knot failures I’ve had with the improved Cinch have been do to my stupidity in tying the knot, not the design of the knot. Lou

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – After finally purchasing most of the needed equipment,  spending hours practice casting, and reading everything I can find about fly-fishing, I’m almost ready to go. Some articles state that the clinch knot (for tying fly to tippet) is only 60% as strong as the tippet it is tied to. There also seems to be debate over whether improved version is actually better. Even so, it seems to be at the top of the list when looking at knot tying articles. After losing practice flies using this knot, I started tying uni-knot, but it takes longer  to tie. My knot tying ability and casing smoothness have both improved somewhat, and I plan to start actually fishing with improved clinch version. Set-up will be 5x tapered (sci. anglers 7 1/2 ft) tip with12-16 size flies with 5 wt wt-forward line. I was hoping to get poll on  knot’s others would use/recommend.

Response:

Question:

Greetings.  I am new to this group, and have recently begun taking an interest in fishing streams and rivers after years of fishing lakes for bass, walleye, pike, etc.  Particularly, I am interested in trout and steelhead, and other such fish.  However, being that I am not very familiar with the local streams and rivers, information is scarce, and I have little time to do any real, meaningful leg-work, I do not know where to look for these fish on local waters. Hence, I would like to inquire if anyone has any knowledge on the subject. As described, I am looking for information on where to look for trout, steelhead, and the like in rivers and streams in NE Ohio, either on a fly or other tackle; the closer to Cleveland, the better. I realize that there has been extensive stocking of these fish in years past in the Chagrin and Rocky rivers.  However, quite often, these rivers are hard to fish due to crowding.  I have heard, thought, that there are some excellent spots which, due to being hard to reach, are very easy to fish. Anyhow, back to the question.  Do you know of any particular areas in any of the waters of NE Ohio which are likely to hold fish?  I am not asking anyone to give up a "secret hole" or anything of that nature.  However, I would be grateful if anyone could recommend a specific area on any of the regional waters which have a high propensity to hold the aforementioned fish. Thank you for any information you can provide.  Also, if my writing has been may be able to better answer my question. Ron

Response:

Greetings.  I am new to this group, and have recently begun taking an interest in fishing streams and rivers after years of fishing lakes for bass, walleye, pike, etc.  Particularly, I am interested in trout and steelhead, and other such fish.

Try this site:  http://www.FishUSA.com/FishErie/ vince norris

Response:

Question:

Norm is not a finish carpenter. I disagree. What about the nail gun, stain-over-smeared-glue, and poly? (I had forgotten the glue-smearing tactic in my 1st post.)

I guess we have different definitions of finish carpenter. In my book it’s the person who works (generally) inside the building putting up baseboard, door & window trim, panelling and molding. And often installing cabinets and built-ins. You will generally see these guys wielding a nail gun, rubbing glue on with a finger tip, and filling holes with putty. There’s usually a second person who slaps on the stain and poly. So what is that that makes Norm _not_ a finish carpenter? The fact that he crams a week-long project into 1/2 hour isn’t relevant. He’s not doing it real time like Roy Underhill and we all know that (right kids?). Bzzzzt! Ask these Normites’ wives. (and probably 1/3 of them)

Well, that’s why Ron Popeil is rich, isn’t it. pays attention now. In the early days he was content with a simple half-blind dovetail jig for all his drawers. He still doesn’t hand-cut them but at least he appreciates the aesthetics of the hand-cut look given by the leigh jig. I must have missed the episode titled "How to fake hand-cut dovies using only $26,745.13 worth of powah tools." (Of course, I’ve only seen 3 or 4 episodes, plus 5-10 minutes of half a dozen others.) I liked him on TOH much better.

Oh come on. The Leigh Dovetail jig costs $370 and the router is around $150. Hardly excessive. And there’s an endorsement there. He’s shown a couple of other dovetail jigs through the years–such as the Keller–but they only ever made one appearance. The Leigh keeps coming back. So I’d say he’s gotten his money’s worth and it makes me think that it’s probably worth spending the money on. Despite what many people think, outside of a few really obvious examples (the 15" planer, the wide belt sander, and the resaw) the NYW really isn’t overly equipped. It probably seems so to the person just starting out, but I’ve seen many hobbyist shops with as much or more equipment in them. –Rick

Response:

This poll has been done here several times. It is about 50/50. I don’t use them either. — CW KC7NOD – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Frank, please! Let’s take a poll…how many honestly use a splitter and/or guard? I use neither. Jay in NH

Response:

Fountain) crayoned this: Sometimes Norm Confuses Me

As well he should. 1/2 hour to do a 2-week project? That’s TV! Repeat after me: Norm is a carpenter. Norm is not a finish carpenter. Norm is not a fine woodworker. Proof of these three facts are shown on every episode: Norm nails, stains, and poly’s the shit out of every project. Don’t get me wrong. I don’t dislike Norm (only some of his practices), I do like many of his projects, and he surely knows more about carpentry than I do. We just have different opinions on what is important in a finished product and how to get there. (Especially nowadays. Out here in LoCal, I couldn’t afford to RUN the multi-megawatt tools he uses.) All about old planes: Electrolysis: http://members.xoom.com/nlindsey/restoration/Restoration.htm Flattening: http://members.aol.com/tomprice/galootp/Quicklap.html Dating Stanley iron planes: http://peta.ee.cornell.edu/~jay/ww/planes/ Stanley (now Patrick’s) Blood and Gore http://www.supertool.com/index.htm — the Stanley Bible The best wood reference site in the entire world is: http://www.internetwoodworking.com/w5/wood.html/

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<<<)))Well, I might use a low quality plywood thinking that with wet and muddy <<<)))stuff being stored inside the seat, it will be inexpensive and easy to <<<)))replace as needed. Yeah, that, or he could be showing that there is a use for all types of wood, and that you can use different materials if it suits you.

Response:

Frank, please! Let’s take a poll…how many honestly use a splitter and/or guard? I use neither. Jay in NH

A.  I always use the splitter when making through cuts. B.  I use the guard (I purchased a Uniguard when I bought my Unisaw) whenever possible.  There are times that it won’t work for various cuts, but the Uniguard is very good about being flipped out of the way and then flipped back in place.

Response:

Sometimes Norm Confuses Me As well he should. 1/2 hour to do a 2-week project? That’s TV! Repeat after me: Norm is a carpenter.

I agree. Norm is not a finish carpenter.

I disagree. Norm is not a fine woodworker.

He’s working on it. Proof of these three facts are shown on every episode: Norm nails, stains, and poly’s the shit out of every project.

Part of the ‘problem’, methinks, is that he approaches his projects just like a professional finish carpenter would rather than luxuriating in the process like a hobbyist or a fine woodworker would. Ever watched a finish carpenter roll through a new house? Air brad nailers and putty are his friend! Outside real high-end houses, no one can afford to take the time to make sliding dovetails to hold moldings and hand-cut dovetails on all four corners of a drawer box. Measure, cut, bam, bam, and move on. Gotta trim out 8 windows and two doors before going home today. The fact that he crams a week-long project into 1/2 hour isn’t relevant. He’s not doing it real time like Roy Underhill and we all know that (right kids?). Most projecte appear to take two days, but how many of us actually put in an 8-hour day in the shop? However, I sometimes wish they’d be a little less honest and at least portray him more like the rest of us. For example–he’s a busy guy and probably really needs the time saved by that wide belt sander. But since 99% of us don’t own one, why don’t they show him hand sanding (or scraping!) the first panel and then he can run the rest through the dust hog off camera. Same with that huge re-saw. It was cool the first time he used it, but on subsequent shows where he needed to resaw a board he should show us a different technique. If it’s slower and more laborious, so what. He starts it on camera and then uses the resaw to finish the rest. The fact is, he could be more like Dean and Robin who have a whole crew of carpenters, plumbers and electricians who actually do most of the work they pretend to. That’s how _they_ finish a 3 month project in three half-hour episodes! Then he wouldn’t feel as remote from us normal joes. That said, I’ve watched the show from the beginning and credit it, more than anything else, with getting me back into woodworking. He _has_ grown considerably as a woodworker since those early days. If anything, in his design sense. He was guilty of some cross-grain glue-ups early on, but he pays attention now. In the early days he was content with a simple half-blind dovetail jig for all his drawers. He still doesn’t hand-cut them but at least he appreciates the aesthetics of the hand-cut look given by the leigh jig. And a few projects he really has made an effort to build it with no brads in visible places. I think he did fairly well on the jewelry box. –Rick

Response:

Norm stopped being a woodworker some time ago, now he sells tools (or creates the "need" to buy them – your choice). Having said that, Norm builds stuff his way, I build stuff mine and you, undoubtedly, build stuff your way. Moral – never ask the donkey what the horse is doing – ask the horse instead. — Jim Warman

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Sometimes Norm Confuses Me

Response:

Norm is not a finish carpenter. I disagree.

What about the nail gun, stain-over-smeared-glue, and poly? (I had forgotten the glue-smearing tactic in my 1st post.) Norm is not a fine woodworker. He’s working on it.

Perhaps. (see Q above) The fact that he crams a week-long project into 1/2 hour isn’t relevant. He’s not doing it real time like Roy Underhill and we all know that (right kids?).

Bzzzzt! Ask these Normites’ wives. (and probably 1/3 of them) That said, I’ve watched the show from the beginning and credit it, more than anything else, with getting me back into woodworking. He _has_ grown considerably as a woodworker since those early days. If anything, in his

True. Haven’t we all grown in that time? design sense. He was guilty of some cross-grain glue-ups early on, but he pays attention now. In the early days he was content with a simple half-blind dovetail jig for all his drawers. He still doesn’t hand-cut them but at least he appreciates the aesthetics of the hand-cut look given by the leigh jig.

I must have missed the episode titled "How to fake hand-cut dovies using only $26,745.13 worth of powah tools." (Of course, I’ve only seen 3 or 4 episodes, plus 5-10 minutes of half a dozen others.) I liked him on TOH much better. And a few projects he really has made an effort to build it with no brads in visible places. I think he did fairly well on the jewelry box.

1 Atta Boy, going out toward NYWville tonight.  I’ll apologize for offending someone…right after they apologize for being easily offended. http://www.diversify.com  Inoffensive Web Design

Response:

Frank, please! Let’s take a poll…how many honestly use a splitter and/or guard? I use neither. Jay in NH

As a long time lurker on here, to help or hinder the pol, add my vote please. I use neither, Jay BobK

Response:

Frank, please! Let’s take a poll…how many honestly use a splitter and/or guard? I use neither. Jay in NH

I usually keep a "RipStraight" attachment on my fence.  If I’ll be ripping a number of boards I’ll put the splitter back on the saw.  If I looked hard enough I probably could find my blade guard. — Jack Novak Buffalo, NY – USA

Response:

I thought it was funny on todays episode on HGTV while he was building a sailboat and was using bronze screws….all of a sudden he says he ran outa them and will now use stainless steel ones..I mean I know stainless is fine for boats but..but..but—-Norm run outa something in middle of project??????? ps I tape them too..by the way he’s still my hero.. ;0} Steve

That was a pretty startling comment.  He operates out of a 40 gazzilion dollar shop with the best of everything and he ran out of screws???? By the way, was there actually any wood in that sailboat or was it made entirely of epoxy? -JR

Response:

By the way, was there actually any wood in that sailboat or was it made entirely of epoxy?

Well, there’s some wood in between the epoxy plies. Mike.

Response:

[snide mode on] " and a couple of brads to hold it while the glue dries" [snide off] Actually, I do enjoy Norm’s shows.  There is always an idea lurking about and ready to be learned.  Entertainment? Sure.  Why is Norm carried in more places than Roy. Wince?  Sure.  Whenever Norm gets his glue machine and brad nailer out and whenever Roy gets something sharp out.  Lots of good stuff out there.     mahalo,     jo4hn – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – By the way, was there actually any wood in that sailboat or was it made entirely of epoxy? Well, there’s some wood in between the epoxy plies. Mike.

Response:

While being no Sam Maloof,

Who’s Sam Maloof?

Response:

When Norm is hosting his show, he’s more than just Carpenter Guy — he’s Carpenter Guy Hosting a Do-It-Mostly-Yourself TV Show. I’ve often wondered why he uses different methods to achieve the same result from show to show, and I figured it’s probably to show the viewers — who might not watch every show — varying ways of completing the project. Pocket screws seem more of a pain the the butt than biscuits (for example), but it PC is going to give the show their $700 pocket-screw-cutter-thingie, they probably want him to use it every once in a while. Mark

Response:

Actually, Norms use of epoxy in the sailboat is pretty much standard. A lot of cedar strip canoes and wooden drift boats (flyfishing related) are finished inside and out with West System epoxies…it completely waterproofs and strengthens the boat and wood. And driftboats have sometimes sport UHMW bottoms as well as aluminum chines. Best Regards, Philski – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – By the way, was there actually any wood in that sailboat or was it made entirely of epoxy? Well, there’s some wood in between the epoxy plies. Mike.

Response:

I thought it was funny on todays episode on HGTV while he was building a sailboat and was using bronze screws….all of a sudden he says he ran outa them and will now use stainless steel ones..I mean I know stainless is fine for boats but..but..but—-Norm run outa something in middle of project??????? ps I tape them too..by the way he’s still my hero.. ;0} Steve – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Sometimes Norm Confuses Me I’ll prefix this with the comment that, when it comes down to it, Norm has far more experience and skill than I have (I’m a hobbiest/hack working my way up to carpenter, hoping to be woodworker at some point). I have taped most of his shows and review them if there was something I wanted to understand better. Some may debate the statement that he is a "Fine Woodworker" or a snip 1. Using a piece of (BC, CD even) plywood for the bottom of the chair "box".  My god.  Norm even comments that it isn’t all that authentic but that he’ll "just paint it".  He spends an entire show recreating an "authentic" piece, including panels, and then shortcuts the bottom.  I know the underside won’t likely be seen, but the inside of the box will often.  There is not advantage of plywood here as it is a loose panel.  Cost wouldn’t be a real issue compared to the overall project.  It almost appears that he ran out of wood or something.  At least he could have used a better piece of ply.  From the large knots it looked like a scrap from the Home Depot CDX pile.

snip snip

Response:

Jerry, You don’t really seem to be "confused" at all! You have used this opportunity to air your two-cents worth. (As well you can). But I am not of the opinion that you have to follow _every_method_ that Norm provides in his presentations. While being no Sam Maloof, Normski does provide some needed entertainment on the Boob Toob where a plethora of Award Shows seem to rule the roost. He must have had to get rid of that last sheet of CDX – but you can always substitute honest-to-goodness wood in it’s place if you so desire. Then you could always change the channel too huh? Here I am responding to a drive-by……. Philski – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Sometimes Norm Confuses Me I’ll prefix this with the comment that, when it comes down to it, Norm has far more experience and skill than I have (I’m a hobbiest/hack working my way up to carpenter, hoping to be woodworker at some point). I have taped most of his shows and review them if there was something I wanted to understand better. Some may debate the statement that he is a "Fine Woodworker" or a "Craftsman", but when it comes down to it he does make some nice pieces given the restrictions of his show (time, sponsors, and audience). But, he often does things I find, well, confusing. I was watching his recent episode of the "Hall Seat". http://www.newyankee.com/GetProduct2.cgi?0103 This episode raised a number of questions and refreshed my thoughts on old issues.  Perhaps some would care to comment on my confusion here.  Most are probably design issues. 1. Using a piece of (BC, CD even) plywood for the bottom of the chair "box".  My god.  Norm even comments that it isn’t all that authentic but that he’ll "just paint it".  He spends an entire show recreating an "authentic" piece, including panels, and then shortcuts the bottom.  I know the underside won’t likely be seen, but the inside of the box will often.  There is not advantage of plywood here as it is a loose panel.  Cost wouldn’t be a real issue compared to the overall project.  It almost appears that he ran out of wood or something.  At least he could have used a better piece of ply.  From the large knots it looked like a scrap from the Home Depot CDX pile. I think this was a shortcut that didn’t make ANY sense. 2. His under-arm reinforcement.  He makes a good case for why this needed to be done.  No argument there and he makes good use of it to discuss the use of an inlay set for the router.  Unfortunately, his choice of color and shape were utilitarian to say the least. Couldn’t he have used some ply and then a thin strip of veneer? Perhaps some hardwood plywood?  Both would have gone towards making the reinforcement look less like an afterthought.  On a more stylish note, perhaps using something like a bowtie shape would have looked more traditional than the rectangle he used. The shape is probably being picky, but a better choice in wood tone would be more appropriate (IMHO). 3. The mirror frame.  I’ll give him the benefit of the doubt here a bit as I’m sure he has to keep the tool companies happy. But still, he did the entire piece with M&T joinery, then at the last second pops in with the pocket screws.  I noticed he covered them with another (ugly) sheet of plywood and the whole piece will be against the wall, but it seems a bit gratuitous and diminishes a piece that (with #1 fixed) would have been of heirloom quality (potentially). Finally, one that wasn’t in the Hall Seat show, but still always amazes me. 4. Norm has clamps up the wazzo (something not to be debated), and we all know he sleeps with his brad nailer, but using brads to hold solid wood edging on plywood rather than simply clamping them seems foolish (for non-production shops).  I mean really.  I’m putting the edging on to give a finished appearance to the piece. Why do I want to go and put holes in it which have to be patched and which will show up in the final piece?  Am I missing something other than speed (which isn’t an issue for his show) or product promotion (heck, perhaps Bessey would like to sell some more K-bodies ? Jerry — Jerry Fountain          | Laboratory for Fluid Mechanics, Chaos, and Mixing (847) 491-3555 (Office) | Department of Chemical Engineering (847) 491-3728 (FAX)    | 2145 Sheridan Road, Evanston, IL  60208

Response:

Frank, please! Let’s take a poll…how many honestly use a splitter and/or guard? I use neither.

I use neither, either!  And for the past 27 years my digits have remained all mine. In fact the worst cuts have been from chisels, and I don’t think they make a guard for those beasties, do they?  :-)

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Jerry, You don’t really seem to be "confused" at all! You have used this opportunity to air your two-cents worth. (As well you can). But I am not of the opinion that you have to follow _every_method_ that Norm provides in his presentations. While being no Sam Maloof, Normski does provide some needed entertainment on the Boob Toob where a plethora of Award Shows seem to rule the roost. He must have had to get rid of that last sheet of CDX – but you can always substitute honest-to-goodness wood in it’s place if you so desire. Then you could always change the channel too huh? Here I am responding to a drive-by……. Nope.  I wasn’t trolling.  I guess my word choice of being "confused" related to "just when you think Norm is going the traditional way", he turns 180 degrees and does something like insert a piece of (poor quality) plywood.

Well, I might use a low quality plywood thinking that with wet and muddy stuff being stored inside the seat, it will be inexpensive and easy to replace as needed.

Response:

Frank, please! Let’s take a poll…how many honestly use a splitter and/or guard? I use neither. Jay in NH

Response:

I give credit to Norm getting the wife and I into woodworking. I agree that we cringe when he nails moldings and at the lack of splitter or saw guard.

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Jerry, You don’t really seem to be "confused" at all! You have used this opportunity to air your two-cents worth. (As well you can). But I am not of the opinion that you have to follow _every_method_ that Norm provides in his presentations. While being no Sam Maloof, Normski does provide some needed entertainment on the Boob Toob where a plethora of Award Shows seem to rule the roost. He must have had to get rid of that last sheet of CDX – but you can always substitute honest-to-goodness wood in it’s place if you so desire. Then you could always change the channel too huh? Here I am responding to a drive-by…….

Nope.  I wasn’t trolling.  I guess my word choice of being "confused" related to "just when you think Norm is going the traditional way", he turns 180 degrees and does something like insert a piece of (poor quality) plywood. I wasn’t trying to get into a discussion of how to follow Norms plans, but rather inquire if anyone could see *what* might have been going through his mind when he did something.  Considering that he does the pieces twice, once for the prototype and once more for video, you would think that some thought and reasoning went into the decisions. Still, I enjoy watching the show, and I still learn things from it.  I guess I’ve learned enough to start questioning things  I didn’t even mention that his explanation for how he was glueing only 2/3 of the panels made any sense, plus the fact that some of his tenons seemed awfully long (but it was quarter-sawn).  Wood movement is something I’m trying to study more (beyond the basic rules that is). Jerry — Jerry Fountain          | Laboratory for Fluid Mechanics, Chaos, and Mixing (847) 491-3555 (Office) | Department of Chemical Engineering (847) 491-3728 (FAX)    | 2145 Sheridan Road, Evanston, IL  60208

Response:

Sometimes Norm Confuses Me I’ll prefix this with the comment that, when it comes down to it, Norm has far more experience and skill than I have (I’m a hobbiest/hack working my way up to carpenter, hoping to be woodworker at some point). I have taped most of his shows and review them if there was something I wanted to understand better. Some may debate the statement that he is a "Fine Woodworker" or a "Craftsman", but when it comes down to it he does make some nice pieces given the restrictions of his show (time, sponsors, and audience). But, he often does things I find, well, confusing. I was watching his recent episode of the "Hall Seat". http://www.newyankee.com/GetProduct2.cgi?0103 This episode raised a number of questions and refreshed my thoughts on old issues.  Perhaps some would care to comment on my confusion here.  Most are probably design issues. 1. Using a piece of (BC, CD even) plywood for the bottom of the chair "box".  My god.  Norm even comments that it isn’t all that authentic but that he’ll "just paint it".  He spends an entire show recreating an "authentic" piece, including panels, and then shortcuts the bottom.  I know the underside won’t likely be seen, but the inside of the box will often.  There is not advantage of plywood here as it is a loose panel.  Cost wouldn’t be a real issue compared to the overall project.  It almost appears that he ran out of wood or something.  At least he could have used a better piece of ply.  From the large knots it looked like a scrap from the Home Depot CDX pile. I think this was a shortcut that didn’t make ANY sense. 2. His under-arm reinforcement.  He makes a good case for why this needed to be done.  No argument there and he makes good use of it to discuss the use of an inlay set for the router.  Unfortunately, his choice of color and shape were utilitarian to say the least. Couldn’t he have used some ply and then a thin strip of veneer? Perhaps some hardwood plywood?  Both would have gone towards making the reinforcement look less like an afterthought.  On a more stylish note, perhaps using something like a bowtie shape would have looked more traditional than the rectangle he used. The shape is probably being picky, but a better choice in wood tone would be more appropriate (IMHO). 3. The mirror frame.  I’ll give him the benefit of the doubt here a bit as I’m sure he has to keep the tool companies happy. But still, he did the entire piece with M&T joinery, then at the last second pops in with the pocket screws.  I noticed he covered them with another (ugly) sheet of plywood and the whole piece will be against the wall, but it seems a bit gratuitous and diminishes a piece that (with #1 fixed) would have been of heirloom quality (potentially). Finally, one that wasn’t in the Hall Seat show, but still always amazes me. 4. Norm has clamps up the wazzo (something not to be debated), and we all know he sleeps with his brad nailer, but using brads to hold solid wood edging on plywood rather than simply clamping them seems foolish (for non-production shops).  I mean really.  I’m putting the edging on to give a finished appearance to the piece. Why do I want to go and put holes in it which have to be patched and which will show up in the final piece?  Am I missing something other than speed (which isn’t an issue for his show) or product promotion (heck, perhaps Bessey would like to sell some more K-bodies ? Jerry — Jerry Fountain          | Laboratory for Fluid Mechanics, Chaos, and Mixing (847) 491-3555 (Office) | Department of Chemical Engineering (847) 491-3728 (FAX)    | 2145 Sheridan Road, Evanston, IL  60208

Response:

Question:

The Saw Doctors

Question:

Anyone having problems with their Orvis Clearwater breathables? Peter

Response:

Anyone having problems with their Orvis Clearwater breathables? Peter

The only problem I had was with a barbed wire fence that was half buried. I just wanted to get them repaired, but Orvis replaced them. Otherwise, I have had about 2 years in two pairs, and have had no problems. The only thing I have to figure out is how to get the mud off of them. jim — Jim Jacoby Mt. Horeb, WI To send a reply, remove "-take_this_out-" from the address.

Response:

Anyone having problems with their Orvis Clearwater breathables? Peter

No.  But you said the magic word * Orvis *.  If you have *any* problem with them, even not liking them, Orvis will replace them.  I wore a pair of 3mm neoprenes for over a month of fishing in Maine and Labrador.  I should have bought the breathables and told my Orvis dealer about it.  He said to bring the neoprenes back and I could trade ‘em for breathables.  Neat!!!!  I’ve had no problems with them, but if I do, well Orvis is only about twenty minutes away. :0) Dave LaCourse

Response:

I just purchased a pair of the breathable waders this past Christmas and have hd no problems with them yet.  I am hoping they will hold up pretty good Matt Rheams

Response:

Anyone having problems with their Orvis Clearwater breathables?

the shop who sells it has problems: these waders are so affordable he’s not selling any of the expensive ones! =^) i’ve been using it for about 1.5 years now and it’s great. No punctures or leaks. Very comfy, but that’s with all breathables i guess. My idea was why pay 300+ bucks when you can get 2 of these, spreaded over many many years (if one wears out, just get a new one). Go get it! unless you don’t like the blue color.

Response:

writes: *SNIP* Go get it! unless you don’t like the blue color.

For 1998 you can also get them in green.                       Good Fishing,                             Dan Dan Gracia Orvis West Coast Fly Fishing Schools Mt. Shasta Fly Fishing Schools http://www.thegrid.net/flyfish

Response:

Anyone having problems with their Orvis Clearwater breathables? i’ve been using it for about 1.5 years now and it’s great. No punctures or leaks. Very comfy, but that’s with all breathables i guess. My idea was why pay 300+ bucks when you can get 2 of these, spreaded over many many years (if one wears out, just get a new one). Go get it! unless you don’t like the blue color.

Except now they come in much better green color. I just bought mine a few weeks ago, and I may never wear my neoprenes again! I’m sure  I will in the winter, but I fished a week ago in about 40 degree weather in cold, tailwater water (not sure about exact water temp), and all I wore under mine was one layer of Patagonia Expedition Weight Capilene underwear. I stayed bone dry (even after hiking 1.5 mi., mostly on gravel — ugh), and I stayed surprisingly warm. I waited until they had been out for a year or so to get some, and I wish I had bought some of the first ones (though I really do prefer the new green color — much more natural-looking). SWJ

Response:

Go get it! unless you don’t like the blue color. For 1998 you can also get them in green.  

oh no…. why not just plain tan?…

Response:

Anyone having problems with their Orvis Clearwater breathables? Peter

Thanks for all your comments.  I’ve been very cautious about breathables as the local store has had a bad time with another brand. I’ve just contacted a local Orvis store about getting a set.  The green ones, SWJ.  Thanks for the heads up on the colour. Peter

Response:

Question:

A few years ago, Cabela’s had hip length stocking foot, in neoprene, and in lighter material.  You might try them. Kent in Oregon – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Red Ball and Hogman make about 90% of all the waders…..  so its a good chance they make those according to the Specs dan BAiley wants see if he has a waranty…. heck since you like the price try em… if you hate em tell the NG and dan bailey.. let everyone know I am looking for – hip length wader – must have stocking foot – must be lightweight/suitable for summer fishing. I see that Dan Bailey has a Flyweight Hipper for $32.50 which looks ok. Are these any good? durable? crap? Does anybody know whether there are other waders much better (e.g. Red Ball?)? I am extremely attracted to the price of the Bailey Flyweight Hipper. Any suggestions/feedback most appreciated. Thanks very much, Dean

Response:

I am looking for – hip length wader – must have stocking foot – must be lightweight/suitable for summer fishing.  I see that Dan Bailey has a Flyweight Hipper for $32.50 which looks ok.  Are these any good? durable? crap?  Does anybody know whether there are other waders much better (e.g. Red Ball?)? I am extremely attracted to the price of the Bailey Flyweight Hipper.

One thing to look at when comparing brands is the foot.  The type with the foot included as a single cut of material is more durable (and more expensive) than the type with the leg and foot cut as seperate pieces and then welded on. The first type has a single seam running down the front of the wader, around the foot and up the back (like a J split in half lengthwise).  The second type has a double seam (like a crossed "t") at the front of the ankle and again at the back of the ankle where the feet and legs are joined, and are prone to leak at those junctures.  They can make a lot more waders out of the same amount of material by cutting the foot and the leg as seperate pieces though, so they are cheaper. Orvis has a set of stocking foot supplex-nylon hippers (called the World’s Coolest) with the single seam for $54.  They are significantly more expensive than the Dan Bailey ones you inquired about, but the seams may be the reason. I’m not familiar with Dan Bailey’s version so I’m can’t say for sure.  Take a look at the seams of all those you’re considering, and check out the warranties that back them up.                                     Hope this helps,                                          Dan Dan Gracia Orvis West Coast Fly Fishing Schools

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I am looking for – hip length wader – must have stocking foot – must be lightweight/suitable for summer fishing.  I see that Dan Bailey has a Flyweight Hipper for $32.50 which looks ok.  Are these any good? durable? crap?  Does anybody know whether there are other waders much better (e.g. Red Ball?)? I am extremely attracted to the price of the Bailey Flyweight Hipper. One thing to look at when comparing brands is the foot.  The type with the foot included as a single cut of material is more durable (and more expensive) than the type with the leg and foot cut as seperate pieces and then welded on. The first type has a single seam running down the front of the wader, around the foot and up the back (like a J split in half lengthwise).  The second type has a double seam (like a crossed "t") at the front of the ankle and again at the back of the ankle where the feet and legs are joined, and are prone to leak at those junctures.  They can make a lot more waders out of the same amount of material by cutting the foot and the leg as seperate pieces though, so they are cheaper. Orvis has a set of stocking foot supplex-nylon hippers (called the World’s Coolest) with the single seam for $54.  They are significantly more expensive than the Dan Bailey ones you inquired about, but the seams may be the reason. I’m not familiar with Dan Bailey’s version so I’m can’t say for sure.  Take a look at the seams of all those you’re considering, and check out the warranties that back them up.                                     Hope this helps,                                          Dan Dan Gracia Orvis West Coast Fly Fishing Schools

Howdy, Thanks all very much for responding. I thought what the heck and ended up purchasing the Flyweight Hippers. To respond to Dan, the foot on the waders is part of a single cut of material – with the single seam running down the front. The nylon isn’t that thick so I’ll have to be careful not to run into anything to sharp etc. Didn’t check the warranty or other products for that matter since I’m going embarking down to Southern Hemisphere for some ’summer’ fishing next week and just wanted to get something. You can be sure I’ll let you know if they turn out to be unsatisfactory. Cheers, Dean

Response:

Dean, It sounds like the hippers you chose have a foot construction similar to the Supplex Orvis hippers I own.  To prvent the boots from bunching around my feet, I taped them snug around my feet and ankles prior to putting my feet into neoprene booties and then wading shoes.  Don’t go anywhere without a roll of athletic tape. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -Howdy, Thanks all very much for responding. I thought what the heck and ended up purchasing the Flyweight Hippers. To respond to Dan, the foot on the waders is part of a single cut of material – with the single seam running down the front. The nylon isn’t that thick so I’ll have to be careful not to run into anything to sharp etc. Didn’t check the warranty or other products for that matter since I’m going embarking down to Southern Hemisphere for some ’summer’ fishing next week and just wanted to get something. You can be sure I’ll let you know if they turn out to be unsatisfactory. Cheers, Dean

Response:

Look at the Hook & Hackle catalog on the net.  They have stocking foot hippers by Red Ball and Hodgman.  I used a pair of Red Ball for years, and just sent for a pair of Hodgman’s to see if they were as good. — Remove NOSPAM to send E-mail Ernie Harrison – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I am looking for – hip length wader – must have stocking foot – must be lightweight/suitable for summer fishing. Dean

Response:

        Dean, I bought a pair of neoprene stockingfoot hippers from LL Bean a couple of years back, and I’ve been happy with them. I’d used the old Red Ball Flyweights in years past and found them a bit lacking in the area of durability. True, the neoprene is a tad warmer, and a little more expensive, but I’m happy with them just the same. They have the advantage of being more comfortable in early season (cold water) than the flyweights, too.

Response:

I am looking for – hip length wader – must have stocking foot – must be lightweight/suitable for summer fishing. I see that Dan Bailey has a Flyweight Hipper for $32.50 which looks ok. Are these any good? durable? crap? Does anybody know whether there are other waders much better (e.g. Red Ball?)? I am extremely attracted to the price of the Bailey Flyweight Hipper. Any suggestions/feedback most appreciated. Thanks very much, Dean

Response:

Red Ball and Hogman make about 90% of all the waders…..  so its a good chance they make those according to the Specs dan BAiley wants see if he has a waranty…. heck since you like the price try em… if you hate em tell the NG and dan bailey.. let everyone know – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I am looking for – hip length wader – must have stocking foot – must be lightweight/suitable for summer fishing. I see that Dan Bailey has a Flyweight Hipper for $32.50 which looks ok. Are these any good? durable? crap? Does anybody know whether there are other waders much better (e.g. Red Ball?)? I am extremely attracted to the price of the Bailey Flyweight Hipper. Any suggestions/feedback most appreciated. Thanks very much, Dean

Response:

Question:

looking for info on fly shops in victoria, bc.  would appreciate info including name of shop and hopefully a phone #.  would prefer a shop within walking distance from the ferry terminal, even if it’s a long walk. thanks in advance, chris

Response:

looking for info on fly shops in victoria, bc.  would appreciate info including name of shop and hopefully a phone #.  would prefer a shop within walking distance from the ferry terminal, even if it’s a long walk. thanks in advance, chris

Chris, you will have a long walk from the ferryto a fly shop, when you get to town look up robinsons sporting goods, if you go up to cowichan or naniamo, cambell river there are more and better shops to look around. Trevor Hanson’s Fishing Outfitter’s    "just add water" 813 First Street SW Calgary, Alberta T2P 1N3 1-888-522-4489 102-580 Hornby Street, Vancouver, B.C. V6C 3B6 1-800-784-3312 (604)684-8988 fax (604)684-8998

Response:

: looking for info on fly shops in victoria, bc.  would appreciate info : including name of shop and hopefully a phone #.  would prefer a shop : within walking distance from the ferry terminal, even if it’s a long walk. Depends on which ferry terminal. The ones from the US side (believe they come from Port Angeles, Anacortes, perhaps both) dock fairly close to downtown. However, most ferry traffic arrives from the Canadian side, leaving the mainland at Tsawassen (near the border, and about an hour south of Vancouver).  These ferries dock at Swartz Bay, which is a good 20 miles east of downtown Victoria.  However, should you choose to walk ;-^), the first town (about 3 miles) is Sydney, and there are three or four "fishing" shops there.  Most are saltwater-oriented (get yer bait herring here!) but all have a few flies and tying supplies. Trail, BC               voice: (250) 368-9315 Canada V1R 2V7          data:  (250) 368-9341

Response:

Question:

Hi Don Have you ever fished the Sawyer version of the PT?  Personally I like it better than the present day version with a peacock thorax.  I use an electric drill to spool the motor winding wire so I can use a bobbin to tie the fly.  It works well for the tying and fishes very well. — Tight Lines Al Beatty BT’s Fly Fishing Products Bozeman, MT (97 catalog) http://www.flyshop.com/Expo/Specialty/BTsPdcts/index.html

Response:

Just out of curiousity,  what is the original recipe for the pt nymph, This sinks well if pitched or plunked, and is suitable for the "Leisenring Lift" or (British) "induced take." — |  Donald Phillipson, 4180 Boundary Road, Carlsbad Springs,  | |        Ontario, Canada, K0A 1K0, tel. 613 822 0734         |

        also very symbiotic with the "crest of the blue ridge toss and hope", and the "great smoky mountain short line sneak".         a. wayne harrison

Response:

Just out of curiousity,  what is the original recipe for the pt nymph, utilizing only fine copper wire and pt?  I would be interested in your : England’s Frank Sawyer spotted this approx. 1950 when developing the : pheasant tail nymph (using copper wire in place of thread.)  He and Oliver : Kite therefore sought to develop a special casting style, so the PT would : break through the surface and sink to the feeding trout’s level with minimum : delay.  They called this "pitching" rather than casting.

PT specifications are governed by: — fast sink rate (from surface to feeding fish’s depth), — silhouette of a generic (Baetis?) mayfly type, — correct size, commonly #14 or smaller. Materials are simply pheasant tail fibres and fine copper wire (such as electric motor windings).  Tips of 2 or 3 fibres, secured by copper, make a tail;  same fibres, wound around by same copper, make a body; and (if you have any fibre left) are rewound from head back towards middle to make a fatter thorax.  This sinks well if pitched or plunked, and is suitable for the "Leisenring Lift" or (British) "induced take." — |  Donald Phillipson, 4180 Boundary Road, Carlsbad Springs,  | |        Ontario, Canada, K0A 1K0, tel. 613 822 0734         |

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Just out of curiousity,  what is the original recipe for the pt nymph, utilizing only fine copper wire and pt?  I would be interested in your version. gp  Donald Phillipson

: Last weekend, I was fishing a beadhead nymph with just the leader out, : dabbing the fly to a fish along the bank.  The surface tension would : actually support that nymph if I put it down gently. I thought that was : pretty amazing. :   : England’s Frank Sawyer spotted this approx. 1950 when developing the : pheasant tail nymph (using copper wire in place of thread.)  He and Oliver : Kite therefore sought to develop a special casting style, so the PT would : break through the surface and sink to the feeding trout’s level with minimum : delay.  They called this "pitching" rather than casting. : — : |  Donald Phillipson, 4180 Boundary Road, Carlsbad Springs,  | : |        Ontario, Canada, K0A 1K0, tel. 613 822 0734         | — gp

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- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Just out of curiousity,  what is the original recipe for the pt nymph, This sinks well if pitched or plunked, and is suitable for the "Leisenring Lift" or (British) "induced take." — |  Donald Phillipson, 4180 Boundary Road, Carlsbad Springs,  | |        Ontario, Canada, K0A 1K0, tel. 613 822 0734         |         also very symbiotic with the "crest of the blue ridge toss and hope", and the "great smoky mountain short line sneak".

Or the good old Cascade "chuck and duck"! Burton

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Last weekend, I was fishing a beadhead nymph with just the leader out,

dabbing the fly to a fish along the bank.  The surface tension would actually support that nymph if I put it down gently. I thought that was pretty amazing. England’s Frank Sawyer spotted this approx. 1950 when developing the pheasant tail nymph (using copper wire in place of thread.)  He and Oliver Kite therefore sought to develop a special casting style, so the PT would break through the surface and sink to the feeding trout’s level with minimum delay.  They called this "pitching" rather than casting. — |  Donald Phillipson, 4180 Boundary Road, Carlsbad Springs,  | |        Ontario, Canada, K0A 1K0, tel. 613 822 0734         |

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- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – The argument has been over the specific gravity of floatant compared to water.  Such an argument is specious.  There was one post that mentioned keeping flies dry.  That is getting closer to the mark. You can "float" needles or even razor blades on water.  The key is that there is a surface tension in the surface of water that acts like a rubber sheet.  The proviso is that the object you are "floating" does not get wet.  If it does, the surface film is broken, and no longer acts like a sheet. The purpose of the floatant is to keep hackle from getting wet.  The natural oil in feathers and help keep them dry.  False casting helps too. Floatants are oily substances that cling to the fly and repel water. Thus, the floatant prevents breaking of the surface film. Most of the materials forming dry flies have spikes and barbules that give lots of surface for their weight.  They push dimples into the surface layer.  In turn the tension in this layer pushes back and supports the fly.  Try floating a fly in soapy water.  In fact, one of the fun things to do is to squirt some sinking solution into water where water striders are trying to make a living.  Most of them seem to make it to rocks where the climb out in a bedraggled state.  The soap or detergent causes flies to be wetted in spite of their oils. If you want to "float" a needle or razor blade, put the object on a piece of ordinary paper.  Carefully lower the paper onto the surface of water so that the paper floats with the object upon it.  Sooner or later, the paper will soak up water and sink, leaving behind the object supported by surface tension. William Buchman

Last weekend, I was fishing a beadhead nymph with just the leader out, dabbing the fly to a fish along the bank.  The surface tension would actually support that nymph if I put it down gently. I thought that was pretty amazing. By the way, I owe you an apology for my response to your post earlier this summer about the energy  stored in a bent fly rod not contributing much to a cast.  I really believed that a significant portion of the energy involved in propelling the fly line would be temporarily stored in the rod. After a summer of testing and observation, though, I will admit that I was wrong.  Probably less than 10% of the useful energy in a cast is transferred to the line from the potential of the bent rod. Andy Lamborne

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<snip : layer.  In turn the tension in this layer pushes back and supports the : fly.  Try floating a fly in soapy water.  In fact, one of the fun things : to do is to squirt some sinking solution into water where water striders : are trying to make a living.  Most of them seem to make it to rocks where : the climb out in a bedraggled state.  The soap or detergent causes flies : to be wetted in spite of their oils. <snip

Sinking water striders with soap for fun ?   Enjoy your next life as a water strider, pal. TimW

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<snip : layer.  In turn the tension in this layer pushes back and supports the : fly.  Try floating a fly in soapy water.  In fact, one of the fun things : to do is to squirt some sinking solution into water where water striders : are trying to make a living.  Most of them seem to make it to rocks where : the climb out in a bedraggled state.  The soap or detergent causes flies : to be wetted in spite of their oils. <snip : : William Buchman Do you suppose that this would work on canoes, jet skiis, and jet-proped john boats?  George could be my hero! Bob

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The argument has been over the specific gravity of floatant compared to water.  Such an argument is specious.  There was one post that mentioned keeping flies dry.  That is getting closer to the mark. You can "float" needles or even razor blades on water.  The key is that there is a surface tension in the surface of water that acts like a rubber sheet.  The proviso is that the object you are "floating" does not get wet.  If it does, the surface film is broken, and no longer acts like a sheet. The purpose of the floatant is to keep hackle from getting wet.  The natural oil in feathers and help keep them dry.  False casting helps too. Floatants are oily substances that cling to the fly and repel water. Thus, the floatant prevents breaking of the surface film. Most of the materials forming dry flies have spikes and barbules that give lots of surface for their weight.  They push dimples into the surface layer.  In turn the tension in this layer pushes back and supports the fly.  Try floating a fly in soapy water.  In fact, one of the fun things to do is to squirt some sinking solution into water where water striders are trying to make a living.  Most of them seem to make it to rocks where the climb out in a bedraggled state.  The soap or detergent causes flies to be wetted in spite of their oils. If you want to "float" a needle or razor blade, put the object on a piece of ordinary paper.  Carefully lower the paper onto the surface of water so that the paper floats with the object upon it.  Sooner or later, the paper will soak up water and sink, leaving behind the object supported by surface tension. William Buchman

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Question:

Anybody been there this week or last?  What are conditions and what is happening? Mike in PDX "When the trout are lost, smash the state."                           Tom McGuane

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Anybody been there this week or last?  What are conditions and what is happening? Mike in PDX "When the trout are lost, smash the state."                           Tom McGuane

Hi Michael, According to a friend who traveled through the area, the fishing in south east Idaho has been great.  Check with the Stonefly Angler in Boise at 208-338-1700.  They should be able to give you up to the minute info. — Tight Lines Al Beatty BT’s Fly Fishing Products Bozeman, MT (97 catalog) http://www.flyshop.com/Expo/Specialty/BTsPdcts/index.html

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Question:

I have recently moved to Durham, NC to pursue a Ph.D. in economics at Duke University and would be interested in hooking up (no pun intended) with fellow angler(s) to fish some of the wild trout water in the western part of the state.  I have a little knowledge of the streams out that way and my time is extremely flexible between now and the beginning of September.  If you are interested, drop me a note at: Tight Lines! Randy Walsh

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Randy: There’s an Orvis shop on 9th street that should be able to help.  My favorite places to fish in NC were in Stone Mountain State Park (Bullhead Creek?),Sparta on the Little River, a small stream in Whitehead nearby, and Laurel Creek (cannot remember name of town).  I understand the Davidson River near Asheville is also doing well.  You may also consider a drive to the Smith River in Virginia, which has improved drastically since I was last there.  Sorry this is so sketchy.   Have fun, Manuel Monasterio Trinity 1988

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