Question:

Hi Scott, Considering that it would be ~$15,000 new, I don’t think you can go too wrong at the price. It might be a "gas hog"? — Bill Kiene Kiene’s Fly Shop Sacramento, CA, USA www.kiene.com

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Hello fellow boaters, I just sold my little old 12 footer with a 9.9 Johnson in favor of something a little bigger, and here is a boat I am interested in: 1979 Crestliner, aluminum -open bow, nice carpeted wood flooring (recently re-done) -has a sterring console -livewell -auto bilge pump -looks to be in good shape, not beat up -1987 85hp Force outboard w/jet -good trailer -comes with 3 portable ga tanks -a couple of pedestal seats I am going for a test ride this weekend and will do a compression test as well. this boat is set up well for fishing, i like the storage space and boat layout. i also like the jet. Before anyone goes on about jets, I am more than familiar with the pros and cons, and I have to have a jet due to the places I go.  The owner said the boat will go about 32mph with a decent load – this is more than fine for me.  as long as it gets up on plane and goes ( i will not be pulling skiers or anything… just fishing). the owner is asking $2750 – does this seems fair (considering he probably overpriced it a little bit as we all do when selling something)? Engine runs well, and he has seemed to do good maintenance on the boat. If I decide to get this boat I will add a bow-mount trolling motor (probably a minn kota 50# thrust) for fishing, a fish finder, and maybe an extra pedestal seat. let me know what you guys think.  oh – one other question: i am more familiar with inboard jets and big jet boats than outboad jets: do outboard jet units still have a seperate impeller to cool the engine (like it would with a prop), or do they just work off the bowl pressure to get their water feed?  Just curious Thanks! scott

Response:

Hello fellow boaters, I just sold my little old 12 footer with a 9.9 Johnson in favor of something a little bigger, and here is a boat I am interested in: 1979 Crestliner, aluminum -open bow, nice carpeted wood flooring (recently re-done) -has a sterring console -livewell -auto bilge pump -looks to be in good shape, not beat up -1987 85hp Force outboard w/jet -good trailer -comes with 3 portable ga tanks -a couple of pedestal seats I am going for a test ride this weekend and will do a compression test as well. this boat is set up well for fishing, i like the storage space and boat layout. i also like the jet. Before anyone goes on about jets, I am more than familiar with the pros and cons, and I have to have a jet due to the places I go.  The owner said the boat will go about 32mph with a decent load – this is more than fine for me.  as long as it gets up on plane and goes ( i will not be pulling skiers or anything… just fishing). the owner is asking $2750 – does this seems fair (considering he probably overpriced it a little bit as we all do when selling something)? Engine runs well, and he has seemed to do good maintenance on the boat. If I decide to get this boat I will add a bow-mount trolling motor (probably a minn kota 50# thrust) for fishing, a fish finder, and maybe an extra pedestal seat. let me know what you guys think.  oh – one other question: i am more familiar with inboard jets and big jet boats than outboad jets: do outboard jet units still have a seperate impeller to cool the engine (like it would with a prop), or do they just work off the bowl pressure to get their water feed?  Just curious Thanks! scott

Response:

Nada doesn’t support a 1979 boat, and I don’t know which model it is. By the way, the boat is a 16′. -scott – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Try: www.nada.com # Hello fellow boaters, # # I just sold my little old 12 footer with a 9.9 Johnson in favor of # something a little bigger, and here is a boat I am interested in: # # 1979 Crestliner, aluminum # -open bow, nice carpeted wood flooring (recently re-done) # -has a sterring console # -livewell # -auto bilge pump # -looks to be in good shape, not beat up # -1987 85hp Force outboard w/jet # -good trailer # -comes with 3 portable ga tanks # -a couple of pedestal seats # # I am going for a test ride this weekend and will do a compression test # as well. this boat is set up well for fishing, i like the storage space # and boat layout. i also like the jet. # # Before anyone goes on about jets, I am more than familiar with the pros # and cons, and I have to have a jet due to the places I go.  The owner # said the boat will go about 32mph with a decent load – this is more than # fine for me.  as long as it gets up on plane and goes ( i will not be # pulling skiers or anything… just fishing). # # the owner is asking $2750 – does this seems fair (considering he # probably overpriced it a little bit as we all do when selling # something)? Engine runs well, and he has seemed to do good maintenance # on the boat. # # If I decide to get this boat I will add a bow-mount trolling motor # (probably a minn kota 50# thrust) for fishing, a fish finder, and maybe # an extra pedestal seat. # # let me know what you guys think.  oh – one other question: i am more # familiar with inboard jets and big jet boats than outboad jets: do # outboard jet units still have a seperate impeller to cool the engine # (like it would with a prop), or do they just work off the bowl pressure # to get their water feed?  Just curious # # Thanks! # # scott #

Response:

Thanks Jim. I have done more reseach, and I am going for a test drive today and possibly to buy it if the compression checks out on all 3 cylinders and if I don’t see any red flags. -scott – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – As a previous poster suggested NADA, I say use NADA if you’re going to buy, to help you negotiate.  I don’t know which ass NADA pulls its numbers  from, but according to NADA, I got ripped off buying a boat, motor and trailer for $500.   The boat  you’re looking at, stay away from.  Forget the deal.  Just give me than name and number for the person selling this setup at this price!  I’ll handle it from here.  :^)   Seriously tho, it sounds like a GREAT deal.  If you would be happy with it at that price, then that’s what really matters!  From what you say, I believe *I* would be! -Jim

Response:

As a previous poster suggested NADA, I say use NADA if you’re going to buy, to help you negotiate.  I don’t know which ass NADA pulls its numbers  from, but according to NADA, I got ripped off buying a boat, motor and trailer for $500.   The boat  you’re looking at, stay away from.  Forget the deal.  Just give me than name and number for the person selling this setup at this price!  I’ll handle it from here.  :^)   Seriously tho, it sounds like a GREAT deal.  If you would be happy with it at that price, then that’s what really matters!  From what you say, I believe *I* would be! -Jim

Response:

Question:

What is it about color blindness that would impair one’s ability to see a fly on the water ?

It effects your ability to pick out certain colors on certain color backgrounds. For example, I have trouble seeing red objects on a green background, so a red fly on the water with trees reflected would be more difficult to see than the same fly on the water with blue sky reflected. — Charlie…

Response:

What is it about color blindness that would impair one’s ability to see a fly on the water ? It effects your ability to pick out certain colors on certain color backgrounds. For example, I have trouble seeing red objects on a green background, so a red fly on the water with trees reflected would be more difficult to see than the same fly on the water with blue sky reflected. — Charlie…

I’d think that the key to visibility under these conditions would be to use flies. leaders, indicators, etc. that have high contrast differences rather than colour differences.  Red and green have about the same reflectance so somebody with RG colour blindness would have trouble distinguishing a red item against a green background as both would appear to be a similar colour and there would be very little contrast between them. As far as seeing fish – I don’t think that is much of an issue – it becomes a matter of learning the water.  My home river is off colour for most of the season so trying to locate holding fish by sight is damn near impossible.  Unless they’re rising, I fish to likely spots rather than to fish I have seen. Even though I am not colour blind, I spent years as a black & white photographer and after a while, I could visualize a scene in black & white.  I would use a green or red filter if I wanted to emphasize greens and reds.  Take a picture of a red rose against green leaves without a filter and they appear the same grey tone in the photo – add a green filter and the leaves go pale and the rose goes almost black. The green filter allows the green wavelengths to pass through but blocks the reds.  I’m not suggesting that someone who has RG colour blindness wear green sunglasses, but we can take the principles of contrast in B&W photography and apply it to the problem. To help with contrast, Borger suggests using indicators that have a bright colour plus black.  The bright color shows up on dark water and the black shows up against bright water or a light bottom.  In some lighting conditions (e.g. backlighting), even someone with normal colour vision will not be able to see the colours and has to rely on contrast. HTH Peter

Response:

Bob- Post your question to sci.med.vision, and you’ll probably get more information than you’ll care to read. Without knowing anything about the method, I suggest you email the company and ask for a list of "PEER REVIEWED" publications describing the efficacy of their techniques.  If you email me the list you get, I’ll try to figure out if they are peer reviewed or not. If they can’t provide you with this list, hold on to your $700. Of course, if the product is all they say it is, they won’t be afraid to offer a money-back guarantee, would they?? Scott

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Hi, There are relatively new glasses being sold by an outfit called Colormax to supposedly help discriminate between reds and greens.  They are available in prescriptions.  Not sure re polarized availability. They are Very expensive;  about $ 700 per pair, I think. Have Absolutely NO idea if they work or not. I’ve been beating the bushes for about a year now, trying to get opinions on them. Opinions seem very varied.   Some have said they help, others not. Just posting this so you know they exist. —-Anyone else here tried them ??—- Bob — As a relative newbie to flyfishing in the mountain streams of Colorado, I’ve come to realize that my color blindness has proven to be quite a problem in locating fish, flies (wet and dry) and pretty much anything else in the water.  I’ve tried various types of polarized sunglasses but, short of a fluorescent strike indicator, I can’t see anything beyond the end of my flyline.  Any fish I’ve caught have been by sheer luck (although I’d never admit it in public). Has any one else out there had similar problems or know anyone else that has overcome this unfortunate disadvantage?  I’m not a big fan a strike indicators and I look like a pretty big goof tying one above a dry fly, but I’m out of options. Any help or suggestions would be greatly appreciated! Thanks in advance, Jafo

Response:

FDA TALK PAPER Food and Drug Administration U.S. Department of Health and Human Services Public Health Service 5600 Fishers Lane Rockville, MD 20857 —- FDA Talk Papers are prepared by the Press Office to guide FDA personnel in responding with consistency and accuracy to questions from the public on subjects of current interest. Talk Papers are subject to change as more information becomes available. —- T99-58                                    Sharon Snider:    301-827-6242 December 21, 1999                         Broadcast Media:  301-827-3434                                           Consumer Media:   888-INFO-FDA COLORMAX LENSES The FDA has received a number of media inquiries about ColorMax eyeglass lenses, which are being promoted widely as a way to correct color blindness. Some of the claims in these promotions may be misleading. The following can be used to answer questions: ColorMax lenses, made by Color Vision Technologies, Inc., Tustin, Calif., were cleared for market by FDA in November. They are tinted prescription spectacle lenses intended as an optical aid for people with red-green color vision deficiencies. The lenses do not help wearers perceive or appreciate colors as people with normal color vision do, but merely add brightness/darkness differences to colors that are otherwise difficult or impossible to distinguish. ColorMax lenses are designed to improve discrimination of specific colors that look the same to people with regreen color deficiencies. However, discrimination of at least some other colors is actually impaired. ColorMax lenses are not effective for people who are totally color blind. Very few people are truly color blind, and these lenses will not help them to see colors. Most people with color vision problems have partial color vision deficiencies that make it difficult to distinguish between red and green or between yellow and blue. FDA marketing clearance for ColorMax Lenses is limited to red-green color deficiencies, and does not include yellow-blue deficiencies or total color blindness. http://www.fda.gov/bbs/topics/ANSWERS/ANS00990.html — Don Thompson Another Thompson Scion

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Bob- Post your question to sci.med.vision, and you’ll probably get more information than you’ll care to read. Without knowing anything about the method, I suggest you email the company and ask for a list of "PEER REVIEWED" publications describing the efficacy of their techniques.  If you email me the list you get, I’ll try to figure out if they are peer reviewed or not. If they can’t provide you with this list, hold on to your $700. Of course, if the product is all they say it is, they won’t be afraid to offer a money-back guarantee, would they?? Scott Hi, There are relatively new glasses being sold by an outfit called Colormax to supposedly help discriminate between reds and greens.  They are available in prescriptions.  Not sure re polarized availability. They are Very expensive;  about $ 700 per pair, I think. Have Absolutely NO idea if they work or not. I’ve been beating the bushes for about a year now, trying to get opinions on them. Opinions seem very varied.   Some have said they help, others not. Just posting this so you know they exist. —-Anyone else here tried them ??—- Bob — As a relative newbie to flyfishing in the mountain streams of Colorado, I’ve come to realize that my color blindness has proven to be quite a problem in locating fish, flies (wet and dry) and pretty much anything else in the water.  I’ve tried various types of polarized sunglasses but, short of a fluorescent strike indicator, I can’t see anything beyond the end of my flyline.  Any fish I’ve caught have been by sheer luck (although I’d never admit it in public). Has any one else out there had similar problems or know anyone else that has overcome this unfortunate disadvantage?  I’m not a big fan a strike indicators and I look like a pretty big goof tying one above a dry fly, but I’m out of options. Any help or suggestions would be greatly appreciated! Thanks in advance, Jafo

Response:

As a relative newbie to flyfishing in the mountain streams of Colorado, I’ve come to realize that my color blindness has proven to be quite a problem in locating fish, flies (wet and dry) and pretty much anything else in the water.  I’ve tried various types of polarized sunglasses but, short of a fluorescent strike indicator, I can’t see anything beyond the end of my flyline.  Any fish I’ve caught have been by sheer luck (although I’d never admit it in public). Has any one else out there had similar problems or know anyone else that has overcome this unfortunate disadvantage?  I’m not a big fan a strike indicators and I look like a pretty big goof tying one above a dry fly, but I’m out of options. Any help or suggestions would be greatly appreciated! Thanks in advance, Jafo

Response:

As a relative newbie … Any help or suggestions would be greatly appreciated!

Sounds to me like you’re putting too much of the blame on being color blind. It takes practice to see small flies on the water, use parachute patterns when appropriate and keep at it. Good luck, — Ken Fortenberry

Response:

Has any one else out there had similar problems or know anyone else that has overcome this unfortunate disadvantage?  I’m not a big fan a strike indicators and I look like a pretty big goof tying one above a dry fly, but I’m out of options. Any help or suggestions would be greatly appreciated! Thanks in advance, Jafo

Open up the window, Jafo, and let me catch my breath!! (Momma told me not to come..) I, too, am afflicted with the recessive sex-linked form of red-green color blindness, and it drives me nuts.  I’m not much of a trout fisher, but I do a lot of flats fishing, primarily for bonefish.  I have a really hard time with the subtle shades of grey, tan, white, and green on the flats.  The good news is that, with experience, your ability to interpret what you see will improve. My opthalmologist suggested amber or yellow lenses-don’t know that they help. Disregard what the "normal guy" says-he hasn’t walked in your waders.   Interestingly enough, the Army Air Corp and the USAF recruited color blind guys to serve in reconnasance planes during WWII because once trained, they were not as likely to be fooled by camoflage coverings on enemy istallations. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text –

Response:

I’m 50% color blind.  I have a real problem "Matching the trout hatch".  So I ask the fly shop guys in the destination area what the fish are hitting and have them detail the patterns with each color identified by number, vendor and any other details.  This is really important for my dubbing and colors which someone has to help me with. On the water, I go for white water where sight fishing isn’t that important as I have the same trouble seeing fish.  But I cast such a big shadow, I gotta get hid, stay low and take my time watching for action, insects, forage, birds, etc..  But, isn’t that what fishing is all about anyway? Just be patient and enjoy the experience.  It’ll come. Good luck. John – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – As a relative newbie to flyfishing in the mountain streams of Colorado, I’ve come to realize that my color blindness has proven to be quite a problem in locating fish, flies (wet and dry) and pretty much anything else in the water.  I’ve tried various types of polarized sunglasses but, short of a fluorescent strike indicator, I can’t see anything beyond the end of my flyline.  Any fish I’ve caught have been by sheer luck (although I’d never admit it in public). Has any one else out there had similar problems or know anyone else that has overcome this unfortunate disadvantage?  I’m not a big fan a strike indicators and I look like a pretty big goof tying one above a dry fly, but I’m out of options. Any help or suggestions would be greatly appreciated! Thanks in advance, Jafo

Response:

Hi, There are relatively new glasses being sold by an outfit called Colormax to supposedly help discriminate between reds and greens.  They are available in prescriptions.  Not sure re polarized availability. They are Very expensive;  about $ 700 per pair, I think. Have Absolutely NO idea if they work or not. I’ve been beating the bushes for about a year now, trying to get opinions on them. Opinions seem very varied.   Some have said they help, others not. Just posting this so you know they exist. —-Anyone else here tried them ??—- Bob

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – As a relative newbie to flyfishing in the mountain streams of Colorado, I’ve come to realize that my color blindness has proven to be quite a problem in locating fish, flies (wet and dry) and pretty much anything else in the water.  I’ve tried various types of polarized sunglasses but, short of a fluorescent strike indicator, I can’t see anything beyond the end of my flyline.  Any fish I’ve caught have been by sheer luck (although I’d never admit it in public). Has any one else out there had similar problems or know anyone else that has overcome this unfortunate disadvantage?  I’m not a big fan a strike indicators and I look like a pretty big goof tying one above a dry fly, but I’m out of options. Any help or suggestions would be greatly appreciated! Thanks in advance, Jafo

Response:

Have you considered making your own leaders and using Stren Hi-Vis Gold line (or some other high visibility line) for some or all of the leader/tippet? Certainly there are plenty of folks out there who use this line and catch fish, even on the surface.  I know some non-color-blind folks who do this to eliminate the need for a strike indicator (they are serious nymphers).  You could at least buy a spool of 2-4lb test line try using it for tippet material.  You’d only be out a few bucks either way and if it works, you’d have a solution to your dilemma. Tom G with two red-green color-blind friends, neither of whom fly fish–now I know why

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – As a relative newbie to flyfishing in the mountain streams of Colorado, I’ve come to realize that my color blindness has proven to be quite a problem in locating fish, flies (wet and dry) and pretty much anything else in the water.  I’ve tried various types of polarized sunglasses but, short of a fluorescent strike indicator, I can’t see anything beyond the end of my flyline.  Any fish I’ve caught have been by sheer luck (although I’d never admit it in public). Has any one else out there had similar problems or know anyone else that has overcome this unfortunate disadvantage?  I’m not a big fan a strike indicators and I look like a pretty big goof tying one above a dry fly, but I’m out of options. Any help or suggestions would be greatly appreciated! Thanks in advance, Jafo

Response:

… with two red-green color-blind friends, neither of whom fly fish–now I know why

Like another poster to this thread pointed out, red-green color blind people were recruited as aerial spotters, this would indicate to me that the color blindness doesn’t impair visual acuity. What is it about color blindness that would impair one’s ability to see a fly on the water ? Not doubting for one minute that it’s true, just wondering. — Ken Fortenberry

Response:

… with two red-green color-blind friends, neither of whom fly fish–now I know why Like another poster to this thread pointed out, red-green color blind people were recruited as aerial spotters, this would indicate to me that the color blindness doesn’t impair visual acuity. What is it about color blindness that would impair one’s ability to see a fly on the water ? Not doubting for one minute that it’s true, just wondering.

I have a friend with RG colorblindness, and he is a pretty good flyfisherman.  The last time I fished with him, he caught a dozen trout between 12 and 20 inches during a caddis hatch on the Madison, to my one. Kevin

Response:

I have a friend with RG colorblindness, and he is a pretty good flyfisherman.  The last time I fished with him, he caught a dozen trout between 12 and 20 inches during a caddis hatch on the Madison, to my one.

If you were only catching 1 inch fish, you were probably using the wrong color fly.

Response:

Question:

Finally!!!! a pertinent post to ROFF!!! waldo

#1 pickup line…."hey, nice tooth". Natty

Response:

Thanks to all who have given their advice regarding my trip to somewhere in Maine in late June.  From what I have gleaned from your responses, I believe that I will have my best success on either the Rapid or the East outlet of Moosehead Lake. It sounds like I can not go wrong with either of these pieces of water.  If these waters are comparable, what are some of the things that would make you prefer one of these rivers over another? Quality fishing, lack of crowds, nearby lodges, wildness of scenery, etc.. Thanks, Brooktrout22 Ed

Response:

Brooktrout22 writes: It sounds like I can not go wrong with either of these pieces of water.  If these waters are comparable, what are some of the things that would make you prefer one of these rivers over another? Quality fishing, lack of crowds, nearby lodges, wildness of scenery, etc.. Thanks, Brooktrout22 Ed

Ed, Lakewood Camps is super.  You can go to The East Outlet and you’ll probably catch fish, but Lakewood’s food and atmosphere is tops.  Plus, I think the Rapid fishes better than the East Outlet, with less crowds.  You can *drive* to the East Outlet.   You can’t drive to Lakewood (it is gated).  A boat picks you up at South Arm.    "Outsiders" have to either boat or walk in, so it is less crowded than EO.    The only time I fish EO is in October when the crowds are nil and it is the only place you can still fish.  JMO, of course.  I will be at Lakewood in late June  (25 – 30) with my grandsons and could help you with the river.  Both rivers have their idiosyncrasies. Dave L.

Response:

If these waters are comparable, what are some of the things that would make you prefer one of these rivers over another?

Hard question. Tough choice. There are camps at the headwaters of the Outlet and also at Middledam on the Rapid. I can’t vouch for the outlet as I’ve never stayed there, but Lakewood camps are quite nice and they take good care of you. Plan on gaining weight if you stay there. Both rivers are fairly wild once you get downstream a bit. I expect that the ‘famous’ pools of each have their crowds, and both have plenty of water if you’re willing to walk a bit. Based on my limited fishing of the Rapid my opinion is that the outlet has more large fish, but you will catch more fish at the Rapid and the Rapid also has the opportunity for you to catch a genuine wild brookie of prodigious size. To be fair to the outlet there are some very large brookies there as well, but it’s reputation is that of a salmon river, not a brook trout river. I once even caught a fairly skinny toque (Lake Trout) in the outlet as well that fought about as hard as 2 foot stick. late June is prime time on both rivers, the outlet will run more to generic caddis and stonefly hatches, with a few selected mayflies mixed in. The Rapid is rumored to have a fairly substantial Alder fly hatch in late June. I expect to day trip up for some of that action this summer. You didn’t say if you were interested in a guide. On the east outlet there are a couple of guide services that will run the entire river in a drift boat, something I highly recommend. I believe that the Rapid tends more to a wading experience with the exception of Pond in the River. This is not to suggest that the outlet isn’t wadable, it is, but it has a series of fairly large and deep pools that cannot be completely covered while wading. The outlet offers the opportunity to sample the extensive night life in Greenville and Rockwood (I’m a lumberjack and I’m ok, I work all night….everyone join in now:-)) and to easily visit the Roach and with a 2 hour drive and a couple of paper company gates, the West Branch. Or head north 30-40 mins and fish the Moose River where it dumps into Moosehead Lake. Lakewood will offer you a nice cabin, with lights and showers, incredible food (plan on gaining weight) and an easy walk to the fishing beginning at Middle Dam. Flyfish

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Thanks to all for your advice.  I will see you on the Rapid in late June. Brooktrout

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The outlet offers the opportunity to sample the extensive night life in Greenville and Rockwood

LOL.   You mean the ceremonial rolling up of the sidewalks?  (in the few spots they actually have sidewalks.)  :-) Joe F.

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Joe Fleischman writes: The outlet offers the opportunity to sample the extensive night life in Greenville and Rockwood LOL.   You mean the ceremonial rolling up of the sidewalks?  (in the few spots they actually have sidewalks.)  :-) Joe F.

Hey, the pizza parlor in beautiful downtown Greenvile stays open until 11 pm – Dave

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Caviasco writes: Thanks to all for your advice.  I will see you on the Rapid in late June.

I’ll be the old guy with two tall teenage boys. Dave LaCourse

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Caviasco;   Can’t go wrong with either choice. My only complaint about staying at Lakewood–which I have many times–was the meal schedule. They serve dinner from 6:30 to 8 pm in the evening–EXACTLY when I want to be on the river on a June evening.    Most of the guys staying there were in the dining area–while–as a "hard-core"–I was eating a sandwich out on the Rapid.   By staying at camps on the East Outlet I find I can arrange my meal schedule to suit  my needs–around the best fishing times. That’s the only complaint I had about Lakewood. Great camps–great people–great fishing. You’ll have a wonderful time.    Dave M

Response:

Dave M. writes: My only complaint about staying at Lakewood–which I have many times–was the meal schedule. They serve dinner from 6:30 to 8 pm in the evening–EXACTLY when I want to be on the river on a June evening.

Psssst.   Shhhhhhhh.  (speaking softly) Don’t tell anyone, but you can have your meal served to you in your cabin *after* 8 p.m.  Extra charge of course.   Few know about it. Dave L.

Response:

Dammit you bottom feeder, why didn’t you share that with us during the clave! Of course I could have been broke by the end of the clave… Flyfish

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Dave M. writes: My only complaint about staying at Lakewood–which I have many times–was the meal schedule. They serve dinner from 6:30 to 8 pm in the evening–EXACTLY when I want to be on the river on a June evening. Psssst.   Shhhhhhhh.  (speaking softly) Don’t tell anyone, but you can have your meal served to you in your cabin *after* 8 p.m.  Extra charge of course. Few know about it. Dave L.

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Psssst.   Shhhhhhhh.  (speaking softly) Don’t tell anyone, but you can have your meal served to you in your cabin *after* 8 p.m.  Extra charge of course. Few know about it.

The other thing you can do is cheat back the show-up time a bit. I spent my time at Lakewood trying to figure out what the *latest* possible time was that I could show up for meals and not lose out. I also tried to figure out how to get up and get ready in the morning without waking up Jeff Miller. An impossible task. I defy anyone to pre-rise Jeff at the Penn Clave. –Steve

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Dave B. writes: Dammit you bottom feeder, why didn’t you share that with us during the clave! Of course I could have been broke by the end of the clave…

Well, I would have, but I figured an intimate dinner by candle light  with Paul, Dave, and Dave  would have been too much for you.  <g   What Dave M. says has some merit, but if you eat at 6:30, you can be back on the river by 7.  I’ve done it myself many times.  Or, you can get your big streamers and a 6 or 7 weight and go to the dam and chuck for big brookies/salmon.  I took a 4 pound brookie on a green ghost last September at the dam after dinner. Dave LaCourse Pirate and Bottom Dweller

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LOL.   You mean the ceremonial rolling up of the sidewalks?  (in the few spots they actually have sidewalks.)  :-)

If you fish the West Branch, there’s a girly bar in T2R9 just outside Millinockett.  Actually, there’s a girly bar there even if you don’t fish the West Branch.

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If you fish the West Branch, there’s a girly bar in T2R9 just outside Millinockett.  Actually, there’s a girly bar there even if you don’t fish the West Branch.

Ya know, now that I think of it, I lived in Millinocket for 2 years and never once went into "La Casa", starting to wonder if I was sick at the time . Of course what looks great to a lumberjack after a week in a tiny trailer somewhere out off the Golden road might not be up to my exacting standards. For the out of staters, also affectionately called flatlanders, T2R9 is township 2 range 9, otherwise known as an ‘unincorporated township’ meaning most likely no one lives there except the critters, there is no local government, no local taxes except at the county and state level. Almost heaven except for the (usually) exceptionally long drive to anywhere that has gas, food, entertainment etc. In the case of La Casa, the adult entertainment megacenter of Penobscot County, it’s wedged right between East Millinocket and Millinocket. Imagine the chagrin when the town counsel of East Millinocket discovered that La Casa was NOT located in the town thereof and was therefore not subject to their attempt to zone it out of existence (true story). Flyfish

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LOL.   You mean the ceremonial rolling up of the sidewalks?  (in the few spots they actually have sidewalks.)  :-) If you fish the West Branch, there’s a girly bar in T2R9 just outside Millinockett.  Actually, there’s a girly bar there even if you don’t fish the West Branch.

Finally!!!! a pertinent post to ROFF!!! waldo

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Zimbo writes: I also tried to figure out how to get up and get ready in the morning without waking up Jeff Miller. An impossible task. I defy anyone to pre-rise Jeff at the Penn Clave.

Can’t be done.  Will never be done.  That’s why he’s the official coffee maker whenever he’s around.  That’s all we let him do, though.  Coffee, just coffee……good too… Dave LaCourse Pirate and Bottom Dweller

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Rory McQuillan writes: If you fish the West Branch, there’s a girly bar in T2R9 just outside Millinockett.  Actually, there’s a girly bar there even if you don’t fish the West Branch.

<g  Better explain to our non-Maine friends what a "T2R9" is, Rory.  And our southern brethren call dem places "titty bars".  <g   Dave LaCourse Pirate and Bottom Dweller

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Rory McQuillan writes: If you fish the West Branch, there’s a girly bar in T2R9 just outside Millinockett.  Actually, there’s a girly bar there even if you don’t fish the West Branch. <g  Better explain to our non-Maine friends what a "T2R9" is, Rory.  And our southern brethren call dem places "titty bars".  <g Dave LaCourse Pirate and Bottom Dweller

Yeah, but do them girlys do back massages?  In the water? Frank (oh,the pain!) Church

Response:

Question:

Looking for someone familiar with saltwater flyfishing from shore in New jersey. Specifically, I need info such as equipment recommendations, and most importantly, WHERE to fish! All the sites I have found only talk about IBSP and other Northern Jersey sites in detail. Thanks in advance.

Response:

Dear Mark, Fly fishing in Jersey can be absolutely phenominal.  Between now and november we have blues, bass weaks, false albacore, flounder, etc.  Flounder and weaks will fade shortly and albies and blues will rule with bass underneath to mid-late october.  From november to ? bass and blues will be king. IBSP and North J. are not nearly your only choices.  South Jersey has some places which are great for fly rodding.  I will break it down as simple as possible North-Mid: Sandy Hook, Raritan Bay, Asbury Park (dangerous), Belmar, Lavalette, Seaside park. Mid-South, LBI N. Jetty, any bridge in back water at night, April-December, Towsends inlet, Corsons Inlet, Cape May Inlet, Cape may point.  The key with any of these spots is to get on the rocks if possible (with spikes) and work the surf edge.  Check out stripersurf.com and reel-time in message boards for reports.  Equipment: out front, jetty and surf 10′10wt or 9′10wt intermediate line, type 2,4,and 6 sinkers.  12-20lb tippet.  In backwater same if fish are big, but mostly 9′  8-9wt.will be fine same lines, current and depth dependent. Hope this helps.  Feel free to email me to discuss. Damian NuWave Tackle Innovative products designed by fishermen for fishermen Fly Tying / Rod Building Equipment, Tackle… http://www.nuwavetackle.com/

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Question:

Tony, Thanks for the tip. Do you know if Bonda PU Power Adhesive can be purchased in the USA? Thanks. Bob E.

Bob, it is available here from a few companies. The brand I’ve used is called Gorrila Glue. Woodworking supply stores will have one brand or another. Use this stuff carefully, it is messy and does not clean up easily. Bob Smith Before you buy.

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If it air cures, does that mean it will take a very long time to cure since the adhesive will be buried between cork and graphite?

Hi Mu, I think ‘cures’ rather than ‘dries’ is the operative word. The adhesive reacts to the moisture in the air or in the material being glued. It probably wouldn’t hurt to dunk the cork handle in water for a few minutes, then pat dry the excess water, before using this PU adhesive (see article in link below). I think Bob Smith has a better handle (’scuse the pun) on this than I have. Thanks, Bob, for your input. But try this for more info: www.woodworking.com/magazine/jul96/poly/ I’ll certainly be giving this stuff a trial for my next rod building project. Tight Lines, Tony Deacon

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I was very interested to learn that his company now recommends a polyurethane adhesive. This stuff requires no mixing. It air cures, reacting to moisture in the air or in the timber, etc. that is being joined. Most importantly, this adhesive ‘foams’ slightly and fills up any space between the cork and the blank, where the reaming has not been exact.

If it air cures, does that mean it will take a very long time to cure since the adhesive will be buried between cork and graphite? Mu

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In article <Pine.SOL.4.10.10003122128550.5607- – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I was very interested to learn that his company now recommends a polyurethane adhesive. This stuff requires no mixing. It air cures, reacting to moisture in the air or in the timber, etc. that is being joined. Most importantly, this adhesive ‘foams’ slightly and fills up any space between the cork and the blank, where the reaming has not been exact. If it air cures, does that mean it will take a very long time to cure since the adhesive will be buried between cork and graphite? Mu

Mu, the glue will dry as fast as the stated time on the label. A little faster if the surfaces to be glued are slightly damp. Moisture helps it cure. You only put the glue on one surface of the two to be glued. I use this stuff in my woodworking the rare times I have to glue up two dissimilar surfaces. Wood to metal or Corian etc. So it’ll work well for handles to fly rods.  Two things tho. It is not reversable and if you get any on bare ( bear ? ) skin you’ll have a nice dark brown stain to wear for a week or so. Nothing cleans this stuff up. Tape off the rod blank also at front and rear of the handle. The foam also sticks to anything it touches.  Bob Smith Before you buy.

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Tony, Thanks for the tip. Do you know if Bonda PU Power Adhesive can be purchased in the USA? Thanks. Bob E. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – We had a club meeting the other night and I bumped into an old acquaintance who is managing director of one of the leading wholesale suppliers of top quality cork rod handles in the UK. I first met him at a fly fishing show about 10 years ago and that meeting prompted me to write an article on cork that was published in one of our game fishing magazines. During our conversation the other night, the subject of gluing cork handles to blanks cropped up. I was very interested to learn that his company now recommends a polyurethane adhesive. This stuff requires no mixing. It air cures, reacting to moisture in the air or in the timber, etc. that is being joined. Most importantly, this adhesive ‘foams’ slightly and fills up any space between the cork and the blank, where the reaming has not been exact. Apparently, this PU adhesive is slightly resilient and works easily. My friend assured me that this stuff was much better suited to the application than epoxies, that are often recommended. The brand he sells is called ‘Bonda PU Power Adhesive’ and it sells (here) for about

Question:

  A few slight differences of opinion, noted below. OK, I will try.  A sportfisherman will have a big cockpit, a transom door, and a stepped up entrance to the salon. Its helm will be in a position so that the captain can see the transom and the cockpit. Common fishing accessories would include a marlin or tuna tower, outriggers,  and cockpit controls.

  A fair description, but I might add that the cabin might be very small or nonexistent.  The emphasis is on fishing, not cabin. A Sedan has a bigger salon, and even a smaller cockpit than a convertible. 25 years ago the difference between a convertible and a sedan was the sedan had an enclosed salon with sliders or a sinlge door in the aft bulkhead; the convertible had an open salon with no aft bulkhead. All three styles, sportfisherman, sedan, and convertible, have a flybridge.

  My definition of a sedan is a bit different.  What I call a sedan they don’t seem to make anymore, but they used to be fairly common.  There is a style of boat that has a smaller cabin and larger elevated back deck area (higher because it is over the engine), with the helm in the forward most portion of the back deck area.  At least the forward portion of this deck would be enclosed, with glass windows, windshield wipers, etc.  It would not have a fly bridge.  A lot of the "classic" wood boats were built this way.   Older sedan models were often a displacement hull rather than a planing hull. An express cruiser has no flybridge!

  I would add that the helm station is rather exposed, often with little or no windshield. The boat is fairly low profile, making it fast and light, as well as a minimum of bridge clearance.  They are not good for foul weather, however, as their only helm station has no protection. Rod

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Hi, Peggie, I agree with the statements for the late seventies models but the late sixties early seventies had most of the engines for the Silvertons under the cock pit with the drives going under the entry. Most other Larz group boats did the about the same thing. Most of the sedans that we have in our area from that era have small salon access. A few with sliders but here in the Midwest, most Silvertons have the door and window option. — Regards and God Speed, Gary Gary W. Sandvik The magic is in the magician not the wand! – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Hi, My one exception is the difference between the sedan and convertible cockpits. Early sedan designs that I’ve seen Silverton, Trojan seem to have larger cockpits with smaller salon access. I dunno Gary, the Trojan F32 and F36, built from ‘73-91, all had wide sliding glass doors from the cockpit to the saloon. The early ’70s Eggs and Pacemakers had wood bulkheads with small doors, but the late ’70s forward also had big sliding glass doors. In fact, by the mid-’70s glass saloon aft bulkheads were pretty much standard on all of ‘em…’cuz inside lower helm stations in addition to the flying bridges begin to become popular. Circa late 60s’ too mid 70s’ seem to have this design aspect. This allowed a larger engine area below the cockpit to accomodate those HP to push those monster hulls. Again, I dunno…That might have been true of smaller single engine models, but the engines in every twin engine flybridge sedan/convertable/sportfisher I’ve seen–including mine–are beneath the saloon, not the cockpit. All that weight midship instead of aft certainly makes it easier to get on plane and hold it at lower RPMS…an something I consider a definite advantage over express style cruisers. Peggie  Hell my old 28′ Silverton SD FB, keel was at least 8" thick and about 3/4-1" at the gunnel. Even the transom was about 1/2 to 3/4" thick. Long before they knew anything about reducing the mass to save $$. Heck the guy who originally brought the Rock to Peoria told me stories about how he broke ice to get into the harbor. Another old river story but I’m sure he broke some ice somewhere. But Capt, your descripts were good! — Regards and God Speed, Gary Gary W. Sandvik The magic is in the magician not the wand! OK, I will try.  A sportfisherman will have a big cockpit, a transom door, and a stepped up entrance to the salon. Its helm will be in a position so that the captain can see the transom and the cockpit. Common fishing accessories would include a marlin or tuna tower, outriggers,  and cockpit controls. A convertible is a boat that compromises between a "sedan" and a "sportfisherman". It will have a smaller cockpit, usually no stepped up entrance to the salon (more often than not "apartment door" sliders), and the helm will be in a more forward position. A Sedan has a bigger salon, and even a smaller cockpit than a convertible. 25 years ago the difference between a convertible and a sedan was the sedan had an enclosed salon with sliders or a sinlge door in the aft bulkhead; the convertible had an open salon with no aft bulkhead. All three styles, sportfisherman, sedan, and convertible, have a flybridge. An express cruiser has no flybridge! What do you say class, how did I do? Capt Lou of "Nautical Talk Radio" heard every Sunday morning 8 – 9 on WPRO 630AM serving Rhode Island and every Sunday afternoon from   4 – 5 on WATD 95.9FM serving Massachusetts.

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Hi, My one exception is the difference between the sedan and convertible cockpits. Early sedan designs that I’ve seen Silverton, Trojan seem to have larger cockpits with smaller salon access. Circa late 60s’ too mid 70s’ seem to have this design aspect. This allowed a larger engine area below the cockpit to accomodate those HP to push those monster hulls. Hell my old 28′ Silverton SD FB, keel was at least 8" thick and about 3/4-1" at the gunnel. Even the transom was about 1/2 to 3/4" thick. Long before they knew anything about reducing the mass to save $$. Heck the guy who originally brought the Rock to Peoria told me stories about how he broke ice to get into the harbor. Another old river story but I’m sure he broke some ice somewhere. But Capt, your descripts were good! — Regards and God Speed, Gary Gary W. Sandvik The magic is in the magician not the wand!

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – OK, I will try.  A sportfisherman will have a big cockpit, a transom door, and a stepped up entrance to the salon. Its helm will be in a position so that the captain can see the transom and the cockpit. Common fishing accessories would include a marlin or tuna tower, outriggers,  and cockpit controls. A convertible is a boat that compromises between a "sedan" and a "sportfisherman". It will have a smaller cockpit, usually no stepped up entrance to the salon (more often than not "apartment door" sliders), and the helm will be in a more forward position. A Sedan has a bigger salon, and even a smaller cockpit than a convertible. 25 years ago the difference between a convertible and a sedan was the sedan had an enclosed salon with sliders or a sinlge door in the aft bulkhead; the convertible had an open salon with no aft bulkhead. All three styles, sportfisherman, sedan, and convertible, have a flybridge. An express cruiser has no flybridge! What do you say class, how did I do? Capt Lou of "Nautical Talk Radio" heard every Sunday morning 8 – 9 on WPRO 630AM serving Rhode Island and every Sunday afternoon from   4 – 5 on WATD 95.9FM serving Massachusetts.

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Thank’s for the help.   On a day like this,  when the sleet is falling atop the five inches of snow we just got – I sometimes go to yachtworld,com boats for sale and just dream of  boat twice the length of mine.   Now I have a much better idea what I’m looking at. Alan

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I

Question:

Cal  Harvey, has been making & selling custom fly rods since 1940. He uses Sage blanks & Struble reel seats.Cal doesn’t have internet access,  for more info contact him at 806-385-4298 ,Littlefield,Tx  I’ve put up a web page for Cal at http://members.tripod.com/~BradBanner/flyrod.html  It has many fishing links.

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He makes a darn nice rod from what I hear. How’s it goin Brad? Jerry http://www.jerryhadden.com

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Going great except for this blasted respiratory crud everyone around here,including me, has. Good to hear from you Jerry. Brad – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – He makes a darn nice rod from what I hear. How’s it goin Brad? Jerry http://www.jerryhadden.com

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Question:

Have I used a slinky? Well no. As an aside, you might try asking Mr G this question…especially if (like me) you’re the type of guy who just can’t resist pouring gasoline on a fire. The ensuing eruption might be fun to watch. I have fly-fished with a similar rig: marshmallow nymphs (ala Fly Tyer’s Bench, Fly Fisherman 199?). Marshmallow nymphs are dynamite. They are soft-bodied modular nymph bodies made from open-cell foam, covered with a fine nylon netting. The open-cell nymph body soaks up enough water to (almost) reach neutral bouyancy. So, if you put a split shot 12-18" up the leader, you have no trouble sinking the fly. But because of a small residual, bouyancy caused by lingering air bubbles in the foam, a marshmallow nymph does float casually upward from the split shot. In other words, you can fish a marshmallow nymph right off the bottom, but it still has a weightless quality that allows it to move naturally, slowly, softly in the water. ….best goddam stonefly nymphs there are. — /* Sandy Pittendrigh                  –oO0  * http://www.nervana.montana.edu/~sandy  */

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Sorry if I missed it, but where can we find "marshmallow nymphs?" (Or better yet, the materials to make them?) Thanks, Scott

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Why use  a slinkie for flyfishing?  I’ve used lots of  weighted (artificial lead wound) wooly buggers, which cast fairly well, get down well, and are very effective for steelhead.  Of course you can vary the weight when tying.  I use these for summer steelhead fishing mostly, since the water is often too fast and deep in Northwest rivers to adequately sink the fly during the winter.

Response:

    Slinkies are indeed a part of spinning or bait casting tackle, not at all to be confused with fly fishing. Remember (as if any of you need reminding), fly casting throws/casts the line, not the lure; bait or spin casting throws/casts the terminal rig. Since slinkies are part of the terminal rig, they are, by definition, bait/spin casting gear.     Mono alone doesn’t cast well, and a fly doesn’t cast well on mono. They are totally different fishing methods (sometimes philosophies), and anyone who tells you he/she is fly fishing while they tie on a slinkie is only kidding themselves. Fishing with flies and a fly rod doesn’t necessarily mean you are fly fishing.You have to be casting your line not your sinker.     I fish with  yarn flies(almost exclusively) for steelies. I alternate between a Loomis 1084 drift rod and a Fenwick IronFeather 9 wgt. I’m not a fly fisherman, it’s just that this combination of gear has worked for me. Everything I use is fly fishing gear, including my Systems2, except my line. All mono. I have all the lines and leaders and krap that fly fishing entails, but for steelhead fishing, the simplicity that mono provides cant be beat. And slinkies aren’t part of my arsenal. Al – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – It seems to me that the rig would be easier and more effective using a spinning or bait casting rig. If you want to fish that much weight, a fly rod is not a great cgoice. A similar rig is popular on some of Wyomings big rivers but it is used by spin fishermen. Willi

Response:

On the Salmon River in NY, slinkies have become quite popular for those fishing for salmon & steelhead.   Because the river is chock full of snags of one sort or another, it is frustratingly common to lose your rig.   As often as not, it is the split shot that hangs up; and the flexibility and shape of slinkies seems to reduce this annoying problem.   Up there however, they are made up of 3 or more very large split shot, any one of which could cause a serious head injury. They are used predominantly by spin fishermen and snaggers who dredge the bottom with 30 lb. mono.   Some find that the sensitivity of a fly rod helps them detect strikes, and use these chuck and duck rigs with fly rods. These fishermen use fly rods simply to lob the weights and a fly without ever really casting their line or having the slightest concept or ability to actually fly fish.   Most unfortunately, this is legally considered fly fishing; and these rigs are allowed in the fly fishing only stretches of the river. Sadly, this crap isn’t even necessary.   I have never used one.   The most weight I’ve ever added has been three BB sized split shot.   By casting upstream and mending properly, that’s been more than enough in even the fastest and deepest water.   And no, the spinning guys do not get more hookups; quite the opposite.   With less weight, the strikes are more easily detected. I would support a legal definition of fly fishing that requires that the fly be propelled only by the weight of the line and limiting the allowable amount of added weight.   Whatever everybody wants to do to dredge the river elsewhere is beyond my control, but it ain’t fly fishing and shouldn’t be allowed in fly fishing only areas. Joe

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- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -On the Salmon River in NY, slinkies have become quite popular for those fishing for salmon & steelhead.   Because the river is chock full of snags of one sort or another, it is frustratingly common to lose your rig.   As often as not, it is the split shot that hangs up; and the flexibility and shape of slinkies seems to reduce this annoying problem.   Up there however, they are made up of 3 or more very large split shot, any one of which could cause a serious head injury. They are used predominantly by spin fishermen and snaggers who dredge the bottom with 30 lb. mono.   Some find that the sensitivity of a fly rod helps them detect strikes, and use these chuck and duck rigs with fly rods. These fishermen use fly rods simply to lob the weights and a fly without ever really casting their line or having the slightest concept or ability to actually fly fish.   Most unfortunately, this is legally considered fly fishing; and these rigs are allowed in the fly fishing only stretches of the river. Sadly, this crap isn’t even necessary.   I have never used one.   The most weight I’ve ever added has been three BB sized split shot.   By casting upstream and mending properly, that’s been more than enough in even the fastest and deepest water.   And no, the spinning guys do not get more hookups; quite the opposite.   With less weight, the strikes are more easily detected. I would support a legal definition of fly fishing that requires that the fly be propelled only by the weight of the line and limiting the allowable amount of added weight.   Whatever everybody wants to do to dredge the river elsewhere is beyond my control, but it ain’t fly fishing and shouldn’t be allowed in fly fishing only areas. Joe

Hey Joe,  I hear ya!! I fish the Salmon River Quite often and find what most fishermen consider fly-fishing in the fly zone ludicrous. I admit that some sort of weight system is needed on the River( Sink tip, split shot??), but the slinky rig is not fly-fishing.  The snags are occuring because of the mass of weight on the leader.  Minimum flow are keeping the river down.  This whole season I didn’t ever add much weight and I am having one of the best years in a while.   It is fast becoming a lost art to actually stategically wade,  cast a fly-line,  mend the line,  and  control the drift through areas suspected to hold Steelhead.  I seldom fish the fly zone.  It is crowded with weight chucking slinky-ites dredging the bottom and foul hooking fish.  I don’t understand how a take can be detected with that rig.  Keep on casting!!  Matt C.  

Response:

It seems to me that the rig would be easier and more effective using a spinning or bait casting rig. If you want to fish that much weight, a fly rod is not a great cgoice. A similar rig is popular on some of Wyomings big rivers but it is used by spin fishermen. Of course, "they’re a fun and a wonderful toy". I missed the original post, what’s a Slinkie in fishing.      - Ken

common drift fishing (gear fishing) weight used by drift fishermen in the northwest.  used by so-called flyfishermen in the great lakes and some in the northwest.  a parachute cord filled with lead shot as burned at both ends to seal it.  hooked to a swivel (since when has using a swivel been part of flyfishing tackle?). sorry guys, i don’t think slinky fishing is flyfishing.  i have nothing against people using the rig, but calling it flyfishing bugs me.  the whole setup uses a level line, so one is actually just flipping, not casting the line like normal flyfishing. flyfishing for steelhead is by itself taking a more difficult way to catch these fish and putting restraints on ourselves because of our tackle choice.  you can catch plenty of steelhead without using slinkies, especially in the northwest. chris

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It seems to me that the rig would be easier and more effective using a spinning or bait casting rig. If you want to fish that much weight, a fly rod is not a great cgoice. A similar rig is popular on some of Wyomings big rivers but it is used by spin fishermen.

Of course, "they’re a fun and a wonderful toy". I missed the original post, what’s a Slinkie in fishing.      - Ken — "It suddenly struck me that that tiny pea, pretty and blue, was the Earth. I  put up my thumb and shut one eye, and my thumb blotted out the planet Earth.  I didn’t feel like a giant. I felt very, very small."                         -Neil Armstrong

Response:

It seems to me that the rig would be easier and more effective using a spinning or bait casting rig. If you want to fish that much weight, a fly rod is not a great cgoice. A similar rig is popular on some of Wyomings big rivers but it is used by spin fishermen. Willi

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Question:

Dustin, I don’t know how much time you have, but there is a place about a three or four hour drive north of Anchorage called Talkeetna.

(lots of good stuff snipped) Bill

Bill – I think Talkeetna is the best town I have ever encountered.  Anyhow, I was in that area last June, but unfortunately didn’t know about the Indian river, even though I had done a fair amount of research before the trip. I guess I missed a great side trip.  Nice to hear about it anyway. Mark Faulkner

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Hello Anglers, I am going up to alaska on a cruise and am looking for places to fish within driving distance of Anchorage or as a shore excursion at either Juneau, Ketchikan, or Skagway.  Any ideas?? Dustin

Dustin, I don’t know how much time you have, but there is a place about a three or four hour drive north of Anchorage called Talkeetna. From Thursday to Sunday a train runs daily into the back country and will let you off anywhere along its’ route. It follows the Indian River(salmon, rainbows, dollys, grayling, and probably other species I didn’t personally catch) and the ride itself is beautiful. I would highly recommend this trip, to the point of excluding other options or extending your trip to include it. I spent 3 weeks in Alaska and if I went back, that is where I would go. We camped overnite in the "Canyon" section of the Indian River, the spot we pitched our tent was within 100 feet of the tracks. Aside from the occasional train, complete solitude. You could flyfish nude and have sex wherever you want, without fear of prying eyes. I mention this only because the solitude brought on those kind of thoughts. The grayling came to dries readily, and it was fairly easy to spot fish. This, in my opinion, is a must do, even if you have to rent camping gear. There is also Montana Creek(actually a river) near Talkeetna, where I C&R’d a five pound ‘bow’. South of Anchorage there are alot of great spots on the Kenai Peninsula. Skagway is a bust for fishing. Juneau & Ketchikan I couldn’t tell you about. If you want more info, e-mail me phone too if you’d like. Bill

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Hello Anglers, I am going up to alaska on a cruise and am looking for places to fish within driving distance of Anchorage or as a shore excursion at either Juneau, Ketchikan, or Skagway.  Any ideas?? Dustin

Practically all the cruise ships have some spare time in most of the ports.  There will be an abundance of outfitters frequenting the ships wilh all type of wares including fishing trips.  They are usually short, overpriced, and usually in saltwater due to the schedule the cruise ships must maintain.  Don’t get me wrong, a cruise is a great way to see the southeast but a less than adequate way to fish it. Mac McCaskill

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- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Hello Anglers, I am going up to alaska on a cruise and am looking for places to fish within driving distance of Anchorage or as a shore excursion at either Juneau, Ketchikan, or Skagway.  Any ideas?? Dustin Practically all the cruise ships have some spare time in most of the ports.  There will be an abundance of outfitters frequenting the ships wilh all type of wares including fishing trips.  They are usually short, overpriced, and usually in saltwater due to the schedule the cruise ships must maintain.  Don’t get me wrong, a cruise is a great way to see the southeast but a less than adequate way to fish it. Mac McCaskill

I think Mac’s right.  I visited last summer, but not on a cruise.  There are places within driving distance of Anchorage, but it depends on what you mean by "driving distance".  For example, the Kenai Peninsula area is two-three hours each way, but that means a full (and long) day if you want to drive there, fish, say, the Russian River, and return to the ship.   I think it is Campbell Creek which runs right through Anchorage and has salmon runs – but which and when I don’t recall.  Depending on your time, you might want to contact a fly shop in Anchorage and see if a guide can be arranged through them.  There is a ton of stuff on the web about Alaska, so a few hours with your browser may get you some good information.  Finally, keep looking here, because I know there are folks on ROFF who know a lot about Alaska fishing. Mark Faulkner

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Hello Anglers, I am going up to alaska on a cruise and am looking for places to fish within driving distance of Anchorage or as a shore excursion at either Juneau, Ketchikan, or Skagway.  Any ideas?? Dustin

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Question:

You might try straws with the tippet strung between the ends and the flies stuck in the straw.  That’s still a pain sometimes too, I wish I knew the perfect method. Curtis

Response:

Hi Tim, Your idea on storing already assemble nymph and dropper fly sounds great. I think I’ll do something similar myself. Thanks! Tight Lines Al Beatty BT’s Fly Fishing Products Bozeman, MT (96 catalog)

Response:

any suggestions on how to store a dropper/point combination?  I hate to discard the tippet and start all over again when reusing the same combination.  thanks

Response:

any suggestions on how to store a dropper/point combination?  I hate to discard the tippet and start all over again when reusing the same

Round your hat, easy if brimmed, otherwise still possible. — |  Donald Phillipson, 4180 Boundary Road, Carlsbad Springs,  | |        Ontario, Canada, K0A 1K0, tel. 613 822 0734         |

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any suggestions on how to store a dropper/point combination?  I hate to discard the tippet and start all over again when reusing the same Round your hat, easy if brimmed, otherwise still possible.

I took a newbie nymphing awhile back…I was waiting for him at the house (you know how those damned newbies are) and thought I could save some time on the river by pre-tying some of these casts, so I did…I tied a dozen BigFLy/Little fly combinations using a 14 inch hunk of 5X. At the time, I found a little cardboard watch box (approx: 1 X 3 X 6) with this carboard insert. I simply cut slits in each end of this insert…put the big hook in the slit, wrapped the tippet around and stuck the little hook into the cardboard.  Put the insert back in the box. It really worked well, except for the 5th law of flyfishing… that a hatch was on and midge emergers were in order, not the deep drift casts I had ready. (lucky bastard still probably has a dozen damn droppers and 2 dozen of my best nymphs in his vest somewhere hanging in a garage while he’s out golfing…) Tim Walker

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