Question:
- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – OK, that’s a new one on me. Could you post a recipe for the Pass Lake (here or on rofft)? I use standard dry fly hooks in sizes 16-10, with 12s and 14s being the most common.. Tie in a bit of mallard flank for the tail and snip to just behind the bend. The body is fine chenille wrapped back and then forward to make it fat. I usually use black, sometimes brown, but any color can be used. Take two turns of brown hackle and then sweep them toward the back of the hook and tie down. The wing is a heavy clump of white calf tail tied in on top and also swept back. Calf tail is VERY slippery. It’s important to tie it in very firmly or it will pull out.
My copy of Flies: The Best 1000 gives the following recipe: hook: TMC 7999, Partidge M or P, size 8-12 thread: black 6/0 prewaxed tail: brown hackle fibers body: black Chenille hackle: brown hackle wing: white calftail They classify this as an Atlantic Salmon fly — something bogus to avoid spam)
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thanks a bunch All of the advice has been miles of help. I’m fly fishing the entire 3 day weekend in central Oregon. I think the best casting lesson is given from another fisherman, and not from a book. So I will try to find an amiable fisherman where I am fishing this weekend to give me the basics. I know the the book basics – 10 and 2 o’clock, keep your wrist locked, etc. But I think a 1-on-1 lesson with a seasoned fisherman would be priceless. thanks again, and tight lines to all -Max
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I’m new to fly fishing, and I have a couple of questions: Do you need to change a dry fly each time you catch a fish? I heard that the fish saliva will cause the fly to sink. Is the fly dry or wet depending on how it is tied or how it is fished? If you are using a dry fly, and it sinks, is it now a wet fly? What are good cues to know whether or not to use a dry or wet fly? ie. lake vs. stream, weather, type of fish, hatch, etc. When do you decide to switch flies? ie. 4 casts with no strike(20 casts) What are some good, general purpose wet and dry patterns? thanks a lot -Max
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They classify this as an Atlantic Salmon fly
I’ve only seen dressings for this fly in two sources over the years. Both of them listed it as a streamer. I’ve actually tied it as such and failed to catch anything on it. I was first introduced to it by an excellent tier back when I was just beginning to get interested in fly fishing. He tied it as a dry fly (as in my description) and I do it just as he did. Considering how successful it’s been for me, I have always been surprised by how few people know the Pass Lake at all, regardless of how it’s dressed. I’ve had a number of hundred fish days using this fly and it is very consistent fish catcher. It has not been uncommon in my experience for fish to prefer it to whatever might be hatching at the moment. Go figure.
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My experience is that selectivity to pattern is very uncommon. As long as you have an appropriately sized fly, presented well, you get takes. Changing size is often important, changing pattern seldom is even during heavy hatches. The exceptions I’ve found to this is when fishing very calm water or with fish that are in heavily fished C&R waters (they can become hyper selective). Too many new anglers get wrapped up in finding the "right" fly rather than concentrating on the more important and more difficult aspect of reading water and making a good presentation. 90%+ of fish will respond to an appropriately sized fly presented correctly (Correctly is a VERY big subject) while 90%+ of fish will ignore a poorly presented fly even if it matches the hatch perfectly. A little story I read in some magazine or book: There was a pod of notoriously difficult selectively surface feeding fish on a popular C&R river. These fish would consistently surface feed on the far bank under some overhanging branches. These fish were locally famous for being extremely difficult & selective. A number of patterns were designed especially for these fish. An angler would have success one day and catch one of these "tough" ones. Someone would have success on a new fly and there’d be an instant new "hot" pattern This went on for several years with a multitude of patterns circulating around, but no one was able to achieve any consistent success. Then the discovery was made! An energetic and smart angler made the long hike needed to cross the river and did some bushwhacking to get in position for a downstream cast directly above the feeding fish. He clobbered them on a simple Elk Hair’s Caddis. It seems that the fish were not so selective to pattern but where very selective to presentation. An infrequent good drift could be made from the far bank, but the intervening currents made it very difficult. Thus the sporadic results with the new hot flies. Willi – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – If you’re fishing a Caddis, and BWO’s start to come off, and fish start hitting them, you’d be foolish not to change flies. Even as a newbie. Similarly, if you’re sight fishing, and you present a fly properly to a feeding, unspooked fish, and it doesn’t respond, you should change. Period. Of course, as a newbie, you may have trouble sorting out when you’ve met the criteria ("properly presented", "unspooked"). But hey, life is tough for newbies, so what else is new? But the alternative of continuing to chuck your "one" fly at the beast isn’t all that attractive either. I do think that disciplined, careful changing of flies is a skill that can be learned by newbies, and is preferable to sticking with one fly no matter what happens. For example, if you don’t know what they’re hitting, learning to fish a two nymph rig, and systematically changing one fly at a time when nothing happens is all to the good, imho. If you want to keep one a hare’s ear all the time, by all means. But changing the other systematically would likely improve results. Michael — www.geocities.com/yosemite/falls/3363 Share what you know. Learn what you don’t.
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I have always been surprised by how few people know the Pass Lake at all, regardless of how it’s dressed. I’ve had a number of hundred fish days using this fly and it is very consistent fish catcher. It has not been uncommon in my experience for fish to prefer it to whatever might be hatching at the moment. Go figure.
Thanks Wolfgang. I happen to have the materials handy so I’ll tie up a few tonight – never hurts to try something new. A wooly worm with a calftail wing basically. If my local trout don’t care for it, I’m sure the pumpkinseeds will. Fishing it like you do, trapped in the film, is probably a good imitator of a variety of emergers. Regards, Stan
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When do you decide to switch flies? ie. 4 casts with no strike(20 casts)
My advice to a beginner is to not give in to the temptation of switching flies very often. Learn how to present a nymph and a dry properly, at the correct depth, in the right spots etc. The "right" fly presented poorly is much worse than the "wrong" fly presented well and in the right place. Presentation is the skill that makes a good fly fisherman who can be successful on varied waters and conditions. IMHO this is the skill a beginner should concentrate on. Once you learn where the fish are most likely to be and how to present a fly in the correct manner and at the right depth, selecting the "right" fly may increase your catch. Without presentation skills, it doesn’t matter much which fly you’re using. I’d suggest using an all around dry and nymph to start. A 16 Elk Hair Caddis and a 14 Hare’s Ear area good choice for Western waters. Willi
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0] : I’m new to fly fishing, and I have a couple of questions: : Do you need to change a dry fly each time you catch a fish? I heard that : the fish saliva will cause the fly to sink. : Is the fly dry or wet depending on how it is tied or how it is fished? : If you are using a dry fly, and it sinks, is it now a wet fly? : What are good cues to know whether or not to use a dry or wet fly? ie. lake : vs. stream, weather, type of fish, hatch, etc. : When do you decide to switch flies? ie. 4 casts with no strike(20 casts) : What are some good, general purpose wet and dry patterns? : thanks a lot : -Max I will add something to the other answers you have gotten to your questions. I find that most of the time I can clean the fish slime off a dry fly by flicking it hard against the water on a short line a few times, then a couple of false casts to dry it, and then the next cast is to a fish–all without having to touch the fly after I have released the fish. Obviously don’t flick it near the spot where you are going fish it next. Mike — Michael McGuire Hewlett Packard Laboratories (remove x’s from email if not Palo Alto, CA 94303-0971 a spammer) Phone: (650)-857-5491
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My advice to a beginner is to not give in to the temptation of switching flies very often. I’d suggest using an all around dry and nymph to start. A 16 Elk Hair Caddis and a 14 Hare’s Ear area good choice for Western waters.
Willi, Like anything else, it’s a matter of everything in moderation, including moderation. If you’re fishing a Caddis, and BWO’s start to come off, and fish start hitting them, you’d be foolish not to change flies. Even as a newbie. Similarly, if you’re sight fishing, and you present a fly properly to a feeding, unspooked fish, and it doesn’t respond, you should change. Period. Of course, as a newbie, you may have trouble sorting out when you’ve met the criteria ("properly presented", "unspooked"). But hey, life is tough for newbies, so what else is new? But the alternative of continuing to chuck your "one" fly at the beast isn’t all that attractive either. I do think that disciplined, careful changing of flies is a skill that can be learned by newbies, and is preferable to sticking with one fly no matter what happens. For example, if you don’t know what they’re hitting, learning to fish a two nymph rig, and systematically changing one fly at a time when nothing happens is all to the good, imho. If you want to keep one a hare’s ear all the time, by all means. But changing the other systematically would likely improve results. Michael — www.geocities.com/yosemite/falls/3363 Share what you know. Learn what you don’t.
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—–BEGIN PGP SIGNED MESSAGE—– While in non-compliance with local decency ordinances the world over, Do you need to change a dry fly each time you catch a fish? I heard that the fish saliva will cause the fly to sink.
I didn’t think that fish salivate. Shows ya what I know. At any rate, I don’t change the fly. Some people will re-tie the knot after every fish, but I don’t even do that. Is the fly dry or wet depending on how it is tied or how it is fished?
Both. Usually, most people think that the key is how the fly is tied, but I personally consider a dry that sinks to be a wet fly. (However, it’s rare that wet flies float, since they’re often weighted) If you are using a dry fly, and it sinks, is it now a wet fly?
Not necessarily. You just need to gink it. 
I would say that it is, but I’d bet that I’m in the minority. What are good cues to know whether or not to use a dry or wet fly? ie. lake vs. stream, weather, type of fish, hatch, etc.
If there’s a hatch and fish are feeding at the surface, then I’d use a dry. Otherwise, I might start with some dry search pattern, but I’d probably move on to nymphs or streamers. When do you decide to switch flies? ie. 4 casts with no strike(20 casts)
After an hour or so with no action. But that depends. It’s easy for me to tie on the right fly and then screw everything else up. What are some good, general purpose wet and dry patterns?
My own do-everything dry patterns are the Adams, Royal Coachman, a hopper pattern, and an Elk Hair Caddis. I also carry Hare’s Ear and Prince Nymphs, and Wooly Bugger, or some sort of Muddler streamer. If I’m on warm water, I’ll add cork poppers in various colors. All told, those make up probably 95% of all of the fishing that I do. But then, there are much better fishermen than I in this newsgroup Tight Lines! —–BEGIN PGP SIGNATURE—– Version: 2.6.2 iQCVAwUBN3vW/ckBcsCVVLK5AQH5mQP/bzO6lYiF4+s9UBS0y7+cktA3xMLs7RMJ Ooi4q1H+d4ELDsk9K3VObnsGGmZM76cB2DnnXAA2L85wBCPP8lplKURnxDjw6JVN h+whcgF4olt3U44TBEYLay38UFT4nfmr9aZhRo5mV/NSLkJOrpjGze2ltZfTwdqp chR+N3TfgYE= =8KRl —–END PGP SIGNATURE—– Mike S. Medintz, B.S. | http://www.grapevine.net/~medintz "Living with a dog is easy-like living with an idealist is easy." -H.L. Mencken
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Max: You have received good advise from all, butIi would like to add one fly that I do not leave home without that appears to have been forgotten by all.That is a Clouser minnow. My most productive one is very sparsely tied chartreuse over white and tied with bead chain eyes. Big Dale
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Max: You have received good advise from all, butIi would like to add one fly that I do not leave home without that appears to have been forgotten by all.That is a Clouser minnow. My most productive one is very sparsely tied chartreuse over white and tied with bead chain eyes.
Hey Dale, my own personal "Don’t leave home without it" is the Pass Lake. Never understood why this bug isn’t more popular. It’s somewhat infuriating to use because it always sinks when I want it to float and always floats when I want it to sink, but it catches lots of fish either way. I used to do a lot of fishing with a partner. We would take turns. One would fish while the other watched and critiqued. When a fish was hooked we’d change places. While waiting my turn to fish I would simply let my bug dangle downstream. This turned out to be an incredibly effective technique with the Pass Lake; many hundreds of fish caught this way! The Pass Lake, though it resembles nothing I have ever seen on this Earth is very popular with trout, and bluegills just can’t leave the damned thing alone!
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Hey Dale, my own personal "Don’t leave home without it" is the Pass
Lake. <dot dot dot OK, that’s a new one on me. Could you post a recipe for the Pass Lake (here or on rofft)? My personal favorites are the zug bug and the prince nymph – don’t know why these are so effective – maybe it’s the peacock herl. Caught over 100 panfish plus a goodly number of bass on those during the past week. I ran out of both and need to tie more tonight… –Stan
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OK, that’s a new one on me. Could you post a recipe for the Pass Lake (here or on rofft)?
I use standard dry fly hooks in sizes 16-10, with 12s and 14s being the most common.. Tie in a bit of mallard flank for the tail and snip to just behind the bend. The body is fine chenille wrapped back and then forward to make it fat. I usually use black, sometimes brown, but any color can be used. Take two turns of brown hackle and then sweep them toward the back of the hook and tie down. The wing is a heavy clump of white calf tail tied in on top and also swept back. Calf tail is VERY slippery. It’s important to tie it in very firmly or it will pull out. This fly often rides with the body submerged because of the chenille’s propensity to absorb water, and the wing on the surface. I suspect it is the fat body just below the surface that makes it attractive to fish despite the fact that it doesn’t really resemble anything that lives in the water. A liberal application of Albolene helps keep the wing on top. However, as I stated in my original post this one often sinks anyway. The only real problem with this is that the fly is then difficult to see in fast or foamy water. It will catch fish anyway. It can be fish as a dry, a wet, or an emerger. I’ve never tried weighting it and using as a nymph but I suspect that would work too. TL!
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Do you need to change a dry fly each time you catch a fish? I heard that
Most people try to use flies made of materials that will dry by false-casting: then you do not need to change the fly after it gets sodden. Method #2 is to waterproof your flies: there are plenty of formulae or commercial products. Is the fly dry or wet depending on how it is tied or how it is fished? If you are using a dry fly, and it sinks, is it now a wet fly?
Old (English) theory: yes: retrieve and change it. New (American) practice: no: just carry on fishing. What are good cues to know whether or not to use a dry or wet fly? ie. lake vs. stream, weather, type of fish, hatch, etc.
Yes, all of the above. In practice, when no fish are visible, most anglers tie on a known "attractor" to get fish to show themselves. E.g. Henryville Special (dry caddis) is good for trout, Cockatouche (streamer, sunk) for bass. When do you decide to switch flies? ie. 4 casts with no strike(20 casts)
1. Choice #1 is between the same fly in a different place and a different fly in the same place. 2. When you have not yet seen any fish, and if the wading is not too daunting, 4 or 5 casts is enough — and then you move on to cover more water. 3. It is different if you have seen a fish, e.g. noticed one feeding to a hatch, or got an unsuccessful strike in pocket water. You should then try 10 or 20 different variations (fly or placement) — indefinitely so long as you do not scare the fish away. — | Donald Phillipson, 4180 Boundary Road, Carlsbad Springs, | | Ontario, Canada, K0A 1K0, tel. 613 822 0734 |
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Max….buddy…..you’ve got a LOT of reading to do…. Pick up a copy of Curtis Creek Manifesto (no, not a predecessor to the Unabombers Manifesto!!)…this is a humorous but highly informative book about beginning to Flyfish, a good book for folks that are getting "hooked"….yes, an intentional pun… If you have fished at all before, you probably know some about reading the water… knowing how the water moves, where "lies" are (besides those coming from fishermen’s mouths) and what effect current has on fish. If not, take a look at a used bookstore for a copy of Ray Ovinton’s "Tactics on Trout"…. it’s a great overview book and can usually be picked up in a late printing used for around $10….another EXCELLENT book on the subject is Ray Bergman’s "Trout"…but it may be a bit more expensive. If you know folks that flyfish, go with them….but leave your rod behind on the first trip and observe closely…ask alot of questions like "why did you do that?" and "why did you cast there?" flyfishermen love to talk about their sport and will be good teachers, but the best classroom is a stream or lake….it’s real toigh to describe how things work away from the water. To learn more about the insects, what they look like and what flies approximate that look, get a copy of Hughes and Haefle’s "Western Hatch Guide" or Art Flick’s "Streamside Guide" …. H&H’s book has a wider range of information, especially for Western US waters….but Flick’s has better photos. Don’t buy flies until you know what types of insects to expect where you’re going to fish….it will help you decide what may work for you and what sizes. There are some standard pattterns that will work almost anywhere at some point in time, like ….. Dries (there’s a range of colors for all of them..even the Adams….grey, olive, tan, etc.) Adams Elk Hair Caddis Stimulator Sparkle Dun Comparadun Wulffs Royals Trudes Cahills Hendricksons Humpys Mosquitos Nymphs Golden and Brown Stones Pheasant Tails Grey Goose Fox Squirrel Fledermaus APs Prince Zugs Hare’s Ear Wets Cahills Leadwing Coachman Hare’s Ear Professor Trout Fin Picket Pin Wooly Worms Streamers and larger wets Ghosts Mickey Finn Daces Thunder Creeks Wooly Buggers Leeches Matukas Zonkers Terrestrials Hoppers Crickets Beetles Inchworms Caterpilars Ants Mice Best of luck and welcome to the lunacy known as flyfishing….I’m sure your next questions will involve FLYTYING :) Larry #:)#
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– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I’m new to fly fishing, and I have a couple of questions: Do you need to change a dry fly each time you catch a fish? I heard that the fish saliva will cause the fly to sink. Is the fly dry or wet depending on how it is tied or how it is fished? If you are using a dry fly, and it sinks, is it now a wet fly? What are good cues to know whether or not to use a dry or wet fly? ie. lake vs. stream, weather, type of fish, hatch, etc. When do you decide to switch flies? ie. 4 casts with no strike(20 casts) What are some good, general purpose wet and dry patterns? thanks a lot -Max
Max, Unfortunately, the answers to most of these questions are not clear- cut. They must begin with "depends". A dry fly floats because it does not break the miscus or surface tension of the water it lays on. I just walked in from fishing a Giant Yellow Mayfly for Bluegill. I caught 8 large fish in 25 minutes and did not change flys (on my lunch 1/2 hour). The fly was Ginked before hand and had no trouble staying afloat. Some flys do not float as well. Throw it back on the water and see if it sinks. If it dies, dry it and re-treat it. If it still sinks, tie on a new one. I usually carry 3 of each pattern I expect to use because of losses to trees and the need to change out after several fish. Drys are tied differently from wets in most instances. Watch for feeding fish and go dry or wet depending on what you see. Fish feed primarily under water so that should be a clue. For fly selection, again, it "depends". Species, local hatch/baitfish matches, water, etc. For Trout make sure you have Royal Coachman wet and dry, Royal Wolf wet and dry, Elk Hair Caddis dry and nymph, Yellow Humpy dry, Mad Tom streamer, Grey Ghost streamer, Adams dry, Light Cahill dry, Trico dry, Blue Quill dry, Quill Gordon dry, and Hare’s Ear Bead Head nymph. Have all these flys in sizes 16 to 20 and add size 22 for Tricos. For Smallmouth add black popper, blue popper, Mad Tom streamer, and Zonker streamer. Have these in sizes 2, 4 and 6. For Bluegill add yellow popper with legs in size 6 and Crystal fly in silver and/or gold in size 6. Now, you wanna talk saltwater or salmon or other species? There are specialists here for all of these. Just ask! — Wayne To fish is human….To release Divine! Share what you know. Learn what you don’t.
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When do you decide to switch flies? ie. 4 casts with no strike(20
casts) Max: Mike Conner and others have given you some great responses. I’ll focus only on this question of when to switch flies. I know, for myself, as I’ve gotten more experienced, I tend to change flies MORE not less. This is partly because I have more confidence in my ability to read water and present a fly. Ergo, if fish aren’t taking, it’s time to change. There’s no hard and fast rule, as others have pointed out. If you can see the fish, present the fly where the fish can definitely see it, in it’s feeding lane, and there’s no reponse, that’s usually a good indication to change. In these cases, you might change after only 1 or 2 casts. If you’re fishing blind, the lack of response from "fishy" spots, lethargic takes, refusals, etc. are indications it’s time to change. Also, if you’re fishing an attractor or some other pattern based on guess or history, and then you see another type of fly hatching, that’s a prescription to change instantly to match the hatch. If fish are rising, and you see swirls, watch carefully to see if the mouth or the back of the fish is causing the swirl. If the latter, it’s an indication the fish are taking an emerger. You’d then want to switch immediately to a wet fly, nymph, or emerger pattern. Michael — www.geocities.com/yosemite/falls/3363 Share what you know. Learn what you don’t.
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I’m new to fly fishing, and I have a couple of questions: Do you need to change a dry fly each time you catch a fish? I heard that the fish saliva will cause the fly to sink.
No, you don’t generally need to change a fly each time you catch a fish unless the fly is damaged. Dry flies (so named because they float on the surface) depend on the surface tension of the water supporting the barbs of the hackle feathers. Fish saliva (aka slime) will coat these feathers and prevent them from floating as designed. Rinse off the fly, dry it (crystals, blow on it, false casting, etc.) and it’s good for another fish. Is the fly dry or wet depending on how it is tied or how it is fished?
The terminology generally refers to how it is tied, that is, how it is designed to be fished. There are always, of course, exceptions. A dry can easily be fished wet, but the reverse is unlikely. If you are using a dry fly, and it sinks, is it now a wet fly?
No, it is a sunken dry fly. What are good cues to know whether or not to use a dry or wet fly? ie. lake vs. stream, weather, type of fish, hatch, etc.
That’s a lot of question to answer here. In broad, maybe obvious terms, use a fly that matches what the fish are eating. If they’re sipping insects off the surface, use a dry. If you see them taking nymphs off the bottom, use a nymph. If you can’t see fish at all, try "searching" with a streamer or attractor pattern in some likely holding spots. There are dozens of books that can fill in the blanks on this. I have and like "Prospecting for Trout" by Tom Rosenbauer (my only Orvis posession); but I have no doubt that others also have their favorites. When do you decide to switch flies? ie. 4 casts with no strike(20 casts)
There’s no hard and fast rule for me. I change when I’ve lost confidence that what I’m using is right. Even if a trout takes a good look at my fly and refuses it, I could be doing a half dozen other things wrong but still have the right fly. If you’re sure you have no drag, the leader is invisible, the presentation is perfect and the fish hasn’t been spooked; but he still won’t take it, maybe it’s time to consider that the fly may be wrong. As often as not though, I can’t blame the fly. What are some good, general purpose wet and dry patterns?
It really depends on where you fish and the common insects found there. A few "universal" patters seem to be Hendrickson, Adams, and Royal Wulff dries, Hare’s Ear and Pheasant Tail nymphs, Woolly Buggers and Muddler Minnow streamers. Many more to follow from others. Joe F.
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– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I’m new to fly fishing, and I have a couple of questions: Do you need to change a dry fly each time you catch a fish? I heard that the fish saliva will cause the fly to sink. Is the fly dry or wet depending on how it is tied or how it is fished? If you are using a dry fly, and it sinks, is it now a wet fly? What are good cues to know whether or not to use a dry or wet fly? ie. lake vs. stream, weather, type of fish, hatch, etc. When do you decide to switch flies? ie. 4 casts with no strike(20 casts) What are some good, general purpose wet and dry patterns? thanks a lot -Max
Hi Max, You do not need to change the fly after every fish, only if it is slimed up or soaked through( Dry flies ). Fish slime will cause a dry fly to sink, and it must then be cleaned dried and re-dressed to get it to float again. For wet flies this is not a problem, just washing the slime off suffices, as the fly is designed to sink. Wet flies are tied basically to sink, and dry flies are tied basically to float. You can use a dry fly as a wet fly if you want to however. How you designate the fly really depends on how you fish it, although some flies are tied specifically to float using certain materials, and would be difficult to use properly as wet flies. The same goes for many wet flies which are tied specifically to sink, even using weight such as lead wire etc to achieve better sinking properties, it would not be possible to use such a fly as a dry fly of course. If fish are taking well on the surface and you can match the hatch, then it is a good idea, and a lot of fun to fish dry flies. If there is no obvious hatch and no or very few rises, then you will probably have more success with wet flies. There are no hard and fast rules for this, you can fish wet or dry flies whichever you prefer at the time. If you know that your fly is a good imitation, and it is working OK then there is no need to change it at all. When to change is a matter of personal preference. if fish are rising and you are not catching any, then it may be a good idea to change to another pattern though. For a good list of general purpose patterns have a look at http://www.flyangleronline.com and go to the beginners section from the main menu. There is quite a lot of other info there which should help you as well. Tight lines ! Mike Connor
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I’m new to fly fishing, and I have a couple of questions: Do you need to change a dry fly each time you catch a fish? I heard that the fish saliva will cause the fly to sink. Is the fly dry or wet depending on how it is tied or how it is fished? If you are using a dry fly, and it sinks, is it now a wet fly? What are good cues to know whether or not to use a dry or wet fly? ie. lake vs. stream, weather, type of fish, hatch, etc. When do you decide to switch flies? ie. 4 casts with no strike(20 casts) What are some good, general purpose wet and dry patterns? thanks a lot -Max
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Question:
I’d like to hear if others have received replacements from Cortland (or your local fly shops). Has the problem been fixed? (I just bought a Lazer 4wt.) Your thoughts will be appreciated. TK
My Lazerline began cracking after about 3 or 4 uses. Cortland will replace cracked lines (through the shop from which it was purchased, if you prefer, and if they have them in stock, this way is quickest). However, although Cortland has claimed to have fixed the problem, the manager of the local fly shop from which my line was purchased claims that 1 in 3 replacement lines still come back prematurely cracked. I will continue to have mine replaced as long as I can get an immediate replacement at Cortland’s expense, but I’ll never purchase another Lazerline. GPS
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I also have difficulty with laserline cracking. I had a 4 wt., 7 wt., 9wt. all crack after very little fishing time. I thought it was my fault for storage. I asked at the fly shop where I bought them and he said there had been only one other complaint. All in all I would say the line cracked in about 1/2 the time I usually get out of a fly line. FlyphishR
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Had my laserline crack within the first year, also (they used to call it Lasterline, but had to change the name). My vote’s for SA SUPREME, if you can trust a line that doesn’t cost you $50! Have a Triangle taper on a reel I don’t use much…it did not revolutionize the way I fish, and am not sure that I can roll cast any better on it than any other line, although maybe it shines on LONG roll casts, something I am not prone to attempt… Lon C. Diehl
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My 8wt Laserline fractured at the point where the line came off the reel after my average cast. The break in the coating was clean and the core remained intact. After a call to Courtland a replacement quickly arrived. The new line (2nd season now) seems better. HH — Harrison Hubard,Jr. 202 Berkshire Rd Richmond,Va 23221
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I was recently informed by a fellow fly fisherman that lazerline in his experience began to crack quite prematurely. As i am considering updating my lines this year I would appreciate any info. Also what about Lee Wulfs triangle taper?comments? cheers — gp
Your fellow fly fisherman put you on the right track! The Cortland444-lazerline does not hold up. Right away you can tell something is wrong with line- it feels rough through the rod guides- and decreases over all casting accuracy at distances over twenty-five feet of so. Cracking makes itself present after just a few months of normal use. * As You Marinate your Sean R Borgerson * Melon With My Words… Vancouver, WA. * …I’ll Be Matching the * Hatch On The River Of * Choice
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yes I have had that problem too. I’m just going to wait and go back to a SA mastery 3. Which I feel casts much better anyway.
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I was recently informed by a fellow fly fisherman that lazerline in his experience began to crack quite prematurely. As i am considering updating my lines this year I would appreciate any info. Also what about Lee Wulfs triangle taper?comments? cheers — gp
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I have had extreme cracking problems with my 3 wt lazerline. They have been nice enough to replace it THREE times, but it is a real pain waiting.
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Mt dad sent his Laser lines back to Cortland and they replaced them for free. Said that early models had plastic compound problems. Send ‘em back, bet yu get afree one (oh yeah, you’ll owe me a beer for the advice!)
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I was recently informed by a fellow fly fisherman that lazerline in his experience began to crack quite prematurely. As i am considering updating my lines this year I would appreciate any info. Also what about Lee Wulfs triangle taper?comments?
I had a 6wt. lazer that I REALLY liked…after about 8 months it began cracking and was soon un-fishable. I didn’t think too much of it and replaced it with another brand (simply because I was on a trip at the time and that’s all I could get…I would have prefered another Lazer). I had no idea others were experiencing the same problem and never thought of sending it back to be replaced 
I’d like to hear if others have received replacements from Cortland (or your local fly shops). Has the problem been fixed? (I just bought a Lazer 4wt.) Your thoughts will be appreciated. TK
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writes: I have had extreme cracking problems with my 3 wt lazerline. They have been nice enough to replace it THREE times, but it is a real pain waiting.
Is anyone having this problem with Cortland’s other lines? Incidently, I have heard about this problem from guides I fish with.
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I just purchased a Lazer Line from my local shop. The owner convinced me that it was his favorite line because it was supple. He said the Courtland people said they had some trouble with their early lines but had fixed the problem. He said if the line wore out too soon he would replace the line. Richard Warren Raleigh, NC
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