Question:

J Axelrad;  Sign me up for the raffle with a Strens fisherman’s clipper with zinger and a North Dakota water proof box.  I’m coming in Wed afternoon. Let me know if the timing is off.  Then again, I could always donate 1,000 used flies that never caught anything and never will 8}.

Response:

Lou Teletski wrote… J Axelrad;  Sign me up for the raffle with a Strens fisherman’s clipper with zinger and a North Dakota water proof box.  I’m coming in Wed afternoon. Let me know if the timing is off.  Then again, I could always donate 1,000 used flies that never caught anything and never will 8}.

You had better send it to me rather than bring it just in case.  Wed.  might be after the Raffle.  Don’t know for sure.  But why take a chance. Joel Axelrad **DFD**

Response:

You had better send it to me rather than bring it just in case.  Wed. might be after the Raffle.  Don’t know for sure.  But why take a chance. Joel Axelrad **DFD**

Joe, I will send you a package of swap flies as well if you want to include them in your raffle. I need your snail mail addy. Frank Church Swap nazi

Response:

Joel, I’ll be there early but leaving Wednesday morning.  No problem if not being there makes a difference on paricippating in the drawing.  My 12 hooks with chicken feathers tied on (God bless Tyson’s Chicken) will still be there to participate.  Better not un-zip the baggy until outdoors and downwind from anyone of the few who may have taken a shower that week. Wayne to fish is human….to release Divine!!! – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – You had better send it to me rather than bring it just in case.  Wed.  might be after the Raffle.  Don’t know for sure.  But why take a chance. Joel Axelrad **DFD**

Response:

Raffle rules again… All those giving a prize will get one even if you don’t attend the clave. All those attending bring your prize with you but let me know what it is beforehand if you would. All those not attending and those who think they will depart before the raffle or arrive after the raffle send your prize to me.    Joel Axelrad    Uniform Graining Corp.    2120 W, Lake Street    Chicago, IL 60612     And lastly, I don’t know which nite, for sure, the raffle will be held.  The Clavemeister has not spoken!   Tom, we wait your decision.  Tues.? Wed.?  Let us know. Watch this space for the answer. Joel Axelrad **DFD**

Response:

And lastly, I don’t know which nite, for sure, the raffle will be held. The Clavemeister has not spoken!   Tom, we wait your decision.  Tues.? Wed.?  Let us know.

Since Tuesday is the only night I have a snowball’s chance of being there, that gets my vote. Joe F.

Response:

Joe writes: Since Tuesday is the only night I have a snowball’s chance of being there, that gets my vote.

Don’t forget the torches! Dave

Response:

Joe F. wrote… Since Tuesday is the only night I have a snowball’s chance of being there, that gets my vote.

If you promise to do an encore of your act I’ll vote with you. Joel Axelrad **DFD**

Response:

And lastly, I don’t know which nite, for sure, the raffle will be held. The Clavemeister has not spoken!   Tom, we wait your decision. Tues.? Wed.?  Let us know. Since Tuesday is the only night I have a snowball’s chance of being there, that gets my vote. Joe F.

Sounds good to me too Scott

Response:

If you promise to do an encore of your act I’ll vote with you. Joel Axelrad

Well shit, I better find some glue & put the boxes back together. <g Joe F.

Response:

Don’t forget the torches!

We got us a volunteer again Stan!   Better start practicing.  <g Joe F.

Response:

Joe F. If you promise to do an encore of your act I’ll vote with you. Joel Axelrad Well shit, I better find some glue & put the boxes back together. <g Joe F.

I’ll bring matches and lighter fluid.  <g For the torches, the torches, not those little box thingies……d;0(

Response:

Joe F. writes: Don’t forget the torches! We got us a volunteer again Stan!   Better start practicing.  <g

Yeah, Stan.  Practice, practice, practice.  No fishing from now until then – just practice with those torches.  You don’t mind if I face Stan instead of you, Joe. Dave practicing running and ducking and trying to remember where his asbestos bvds are

Response:

Oh almighty rafflemiester put me down for a fly-tying book as i don’t tie yet i don’t need one maybe some flyline as someday i may tie so maybe i should keep it boy do i hate these aarp moments.Whatever day is picked will be fine with me. Handyman   Mike

Response:

I’m with Joe.  Tuesday night! — Wayne To Fish is Human…To Release Divine!

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Since Tuesday is the only night I have a snowball’s chance of being there, that gets my vote. Joe F.

Response:

I’m with Joe.  Tuesday night!

Well, if you’re with me, you’ll be at a dinner with me and swmbo. Aaaaargh.   As it turns out, she had screwed up the dates she told me for that one.   Now I have committments on Sunday, Tuesday & Thursday.   It’s looking pretty f*cking unlikely I’ll get there at all now.   Giant bummer. Joe F.

Response:

Joe fleischman wrote… Well, if you’re with me, you’ll be at a dinner with me and swmbo. Aaaaargh.   As it turns out, she had screwed up the dates she told me for that one.   Now I have committments on Sunday, Tuesday & Thursday.   It’s looking pretty f*cking unlikely I’ll get there at all now.   Giant bummer. Joe F.

You gotta come.  You gotta juggle.  You gotta fish.  You gatta be with friends. Joel Axelrad **DFD**

Response:

Joel writes: You gotta come.  You gotta juggle.  You gotta fish.  You gatta be with friends.

You gotta try and hit me with the flaming torch.   Be there, Joe, be there. Dave

Response:

I’m with Joe.  Tuesday night! Well, if you’re with me, you’ll be at a dinner with me and swmbo.

millheim inn? <g Aaaaargh.   As it turns out, she had screwed up the dates she told me for that one.   Now I have committments on Sunday, Tuesday & Thursday.   It’s looking pretty f*cking unlikely I’ll get there at all now.   Giant bummer. Joe F.

bummer indeed….. i was hopin we could wet a line together this year….. 2003? –wally

Response:

You gotta come.  You gotta juggle.  You gotta fish.  You gatta be with friends. You gotta try and hit me with the flaming torch.   Be there, Joe, be there. Dave

If it’ll help you, Dave, I can toss a few cigars at you…  Just trying to help.

Response:

Stan writes: If it’ll help you, Dave, I can toss a few cigars at you…  Just trying to help. If it’ll help you, Dave, I can toss a few cigars at you…  Just trying to help.

Wouldn’t be the same, Stan.

Response:

If’n ya’ll want, I can wait till more people get there before I start the fire for the stew.  That oughta be ’nuff entertainment for the most jaded.            Frank

Response:

bummer indeed….. i was hopin we could wet a line together this year….. 2003?

Friday’s still alive as a longshot.   SWMBO gets degree at ceremony Thurs. a.m.   Perhaps a celebratory lunch, a leisurely afternoon basking in the glow of academic success, them off to Coburn?   I dunno; I might get away with it.  :-) Joe F.

Response:

aw hell…i heard they will deliver diplomas by mail now …if you were a real manly man, you’d try that approach and do your celebrating at the historic millheim hotel.  of course, i must admit i tried similar antics more than 20 years ago with my first spouse, and it got me a whole lotta new freedoms…freedom from my bank account, furniture, car, and marriage.  but then, i didn’t have your magical talents… <g we’ll miss you this year… hope you can find your way down to carolina again now that you have some proper footgear… jeff – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – bummer indeed….. i was hopin we could wet a line together this year….. 2003? Friday’s still alive as a longshot.   SWMBO gets degree at ceremony Thurs. a.m.   Perhaps a celebratory lunch, a leisurely afternoon basking in the glow of academic success, them off to Coburn?   I dunno; I might get away with it.  :-) Joe F.

Response:

Joe, Suggest we do a combined blowout Sunday for both the wives in collective celebration.  You keep waders in the van to bug out right after ceremonies Thursday and get back late Saturday night.  If we make a big enough deal out of Sunday, think we can make it fly(fish)?? Wayne to fish is human….to release Divine! – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Friday’s still alive as a longshot.   SWMBO gets degree at ceremony Thurs. a.m.   Perhaps a celebratory lunch, a leisurely afternoon basking in the glow of academic success, them off to Coburn?   I dunno; I might get away with it.  :-) Joe F.

Response:

Question:

Why are you about to send them all to Italy?

I’ve taken a job with the Food and Agriculture Organization of the U.N. for a couple of years, in Rome. JR

Response:

I’ve taken a job with the Food and Agriculture Organization of the U.N. for a couple of years, in Rome. JR

U.N. Cool.  Go out and thump mellons for the "World Team."  I would contact U.S. Customs.  Many times in my moves around the world, I had a customs agent on site when they packed my goods up.  Its their job.  Explain the situation, and tell them what you have.  They will be able to tell you what to do.  The best thing to do is make sure the odd bits (polar bear, dodo, and such) are packaged in and American wrapper (Wapsi, Orvis…).  It then comes under the commercial products for personnal use heading vice "trapped or hunted furs and pelts."  The latter is a pain in the butt. Secondarily, when you ship, package it all together and label it "craft materials."  They understand crafts alot more than the nuances of fly tying. Cheers. — Frank Reid Reverse email to reply.

Response:

I’ve taken a job with the Food and Agriculture Organization of the U.N. for a couple of years, in Rome. JR

Good luck and stay safe JR!  Hope you find some fishing opportunities! –Stan

Response:

Why are you about to send them all to Italy? I’ve taken a job with the Food and Agriculture Organization of the U.N. for a couple of years, in Rome. JR

Is there a relocation company handling matters for you? They should be able to help. Paul

Response:

Good luck and stay safe JR!  Hope you find some fishing opportunities!

Thanks, Stan.  Compared to a lot of places I’ve lived, the greatest danger in Rome will be from all the beautiful women, and I reckon I can live with that.  A couple of weeks ago, a fellow named Bepo from Friuli posted here, and I’ve been grilling him by email about the fishing there.  Turns out he’s a freshwater fisheries biologist, so he knows a lot.  ROFF delivers yet again!!! JR

Response:

U.S. Customs.  Many times in my moves around the world, I had a customs agent on site when they packed my goods up.  Its their job.  Explain the situation, and tell them what you have.  They will be able to tell you what to do.  The best thing to do is make sure the odd bits (polar bear, dodo, and such) are packaged in and American wrapper (Wapsi, Orvis…).  It then comes under the commercial products for personnal use heading vice "trapped or hunted furs and pelts."  The latter is a pain in the butt. Secondarily, when you ship, package it all together and label it "craft materials."  They understand crafts alot more than the nuances of fly tying.

Good advice.  Fortunately, many of the more expensive items, that I’d least like to see confiscated, are Whiting capes and saddles still in their original, labeled zip-lock bags.  As you say, it turns out (according to Kaufmann’s) that products from commercially raised domesticated animals (chickens, rabbits, calves, etc.) are easier to deal with than products from wild animals (deer, elk, etc.), which, to be exported legally, require an inspection by USFW. JR

Response:

Is there a relocation company handling matters for you? They should be able to help.

They were being all spacey for a while, alternating between confusion and breezy nonchalance ("Oh, probably there’ll be no problem…").  I’ve been pushing them about being sure to get the appropriate customs and fish and wildlife clearances leaving the U.S., based on what I’ve found out from Kaufmann’s, Hunter’s Angling, and other folks.  Now they’re coming around. JR

Response:

John, have you inquired with the UN to see if you can get your stuff into Italy in something like a "diplomatic pouch"?  I should think UN personnel would have something like "diplomatic immunity." BTW, my younger duaghter lives in Terni, an hour or two north of Rome. She tells me a river flows through Terni that is full of fish, but she has no idea what kind.   She’s coming for Easter; I’ll see what more I can find out. vince

Response:

John, have you inquired with the UN to see if you can get your stuff into Italy in something like a "diplomatic pouch"?  I should think UN personnel would have something like "diplomatic immunity." BTW, my younger duaghter lives in Terni, an hour or two north of Rome. She tells me a river flows through Terni that is full of fish, but she has no idea what kind. She’s coming for Easter; I’ll see what more I can find out.

Thanks, Vince.  Folks at my level in the organization have some very nice privileges and a quasi-diplomatic status, but not quite immunity.   The pouch is out of the question, but in fact things are shaping up.  It was the local moving company here that was at a loss; the shippers in DC that subcontracted them are pretty much on top of everything now that I’ve expressed my concern. I’d like to hear about waters close to Rome.  All the best trout water I’ve ID’d up til now is too far north for weekend jaunts, but I suspect there is some "lesser quality" water in the Apennines, and I don’t mind fishing for warm water species as well.  Plus, what with a gazillion and a half miles of coastline, there must be a saltwater fish or two that can be taken with a fly.  It’s been said here on ROFF before:  if you’re open-minded and a bit adventuresome, you can always find something worthwhile to fish for. BTW, have fun at the Penns ‘Clave. JR

Response:

I’d like to hear about waters close to Rome.

I was in Rome for about four months a few years back. I didn’t have my fishing gear, but I do recall there being a nice sporting goods store right near the Sisto bridge, across from Trastevere. It wasn’t on the main road that parallels the Tiber, but the "access road" that paralleled that. The exterior was non-descript but they had some very nice gear inside (including fly gear and some really nice shotguns, IIRC). Not much to go on, I realize, but there are worse ways to spend an afternoon than wandering that area looking for a flyshop . Have fun…I’m sure you will! – Sid …and buy your coffee for home brewing at Castroni…you won’t be sorry! …and, umm, you guys hiring?

Response:

…… I do recall there being a nice sporting goods store right near the Sisto bridge, across from Trastevere. It wasn’t on the main road that parallels the Tiber, but the "access road" that

Now you’re talkin. …and buy your coffee for home brewing at Castroni…you won’t be sorry!

Now you’re REALLY talkin.  Thanks, Sid. JR

Response:

I’m about to ship all my fly tying materials to Italy.  Does anyone know what sort of documentation might be required to avoid problems getting bird and animal skins into Italy and then getting them eventually back into the U.S.? JR Why are you about to send them all to Italy?

Folks, we have the first bidder. Tim

Response:

I’m about to ship all my fly tying materials to Italy.  Does anyone know what sort of documentation might be required to avoid problems getting bird and animal skins into Italy and then getting them eventually back into the U.S.? JR

Response:

I’m about to ship all my fly tying materials to Italy.  Does anyone know what sort of documentation might be required to avoid problems getting bird and animal skins into Italy and then getting them eventually back into the U.S.? JR

Why are you about to send them all to Italy?

Response:

Question:

I have tried drilling them out but they always want to split on me so I would build up the blank with masking tape or cork…  Dave

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I am getting ready to build myself a 3 wt. Sage LL 2 pc. and have a question regarding the reel seat. All of the reel seats and wood inserts I have looked at typically come in sizes of .362 or .312.  My blank falls in the range of .340.  I have received two different points of view on how to deal with this.  One fly shop said to drill out the .312 and the other said to build a ship using either cork or other material.  I am leaning towards drilling out the .312 size but wanted to bounce this off more experienced builders.  This will be my sixth rod but the first one I have had to make an adjustment to the reel seat on. Thanks. Mike Wilson Spokane, WA

Response:

Okay gentleman, Thank you for all your responses.  My rod building mentor would get on his box daily and curse the evil of masking tape, so as a prodigee, I too never consider that option.  However, I know that many of you who responded have built a lot of rods and fished the finish off of them so I am going to go with the recommendations of using the masking tape in 3 rings and binding it all together with the epoxy. Thanks for the help. Mike Wilson

Response:

Mike,    I have some reel seats I installed twenty years ago using masking tape and they are in fine condition.  Cork grips are a different matter.  I ream them to fit the rod taper exactly, using a tapered dowel covered with coarse sandpaper. Ernie

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Okay gentleman, Thank you for all your responses.  My rod building mentor would get on his box daily and curse the evil of masking tape, so as a prodigee, I too never consider that option.  However, I know that many of you who responded have built a lot of rods and fished the finish off of them so I am going to go with the recommendations of using the masking tape in 3 rings and binding it all together with the epoxy. Thanks for the help. Mike Wilson

Response:

Right.  Sorry about that. — — – Lou Lampe / Luis de Tucson, engineer retired. There seems to be some confusion here.  You are saying that the ROD BLANK is larger than the inside diameter of the reel seat, at least those you have looked at.

No – he said his rod blank is larger in diameter than *one* seat he looked at, and smaller than the *other*, and he wanted to know whether it was better to drill out the smaller one, or build up the blank to fit the larger one. And I think he got the best answer – which is the same way my dad built his (and my) rods: use masking tape to build up the blank in three spots, then cram the works with epoxy… /daytripper

Response:

0] : Mike, :    I have some reel seats I installed twenty years ago using masking tape : and they are in fine condition.  Cork grips are a different matter.  I ream : them to fit the rod taper exactly, using a tapered dowel covered with coarse : sandpaper. : Ernie

: Okay gentleman, : : Thank you for all your responses.  My rod building mentor would get on his : box : daily and curse the evil of masking tape, so as a prodigee, I too never : consider that option.  However, I know that many of you who responded have : built a lot of rods and fished the finish off of them so I am going to go : with : the recommendations of using the masking tape in 3 rings and binding it : all : together with the epoxy. : : Thanks for the help. : : Mike Wilson I have done several rods by building up the rod blank with multiple layers of heat shrink tubing so that it’s a slide fit into the seat. Then I epoxy the whole thing. I have had no problems with this so far. Mike — Michael McGuire                     Hewlett Packard Laboratories  (remove x’s from email if not      Palo Alto, CA 94303-0971   a spammer) Phone: (650)-857-5491              

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I am getting ready to build myself a 3 wt. Sage LL 2 pc. and have a question regarding the reel seat.   All of the reel seats and wood inserts I have looked at typically come in sizes of .362 or .312.  My blank falls in the range of .340.  I have received two different points of view on how to deal with this.  One fly shop said to drill out the .312 and the other said to build a ship using either cork or other material.  I am leaning towards drilling out the .312 size but wanted to bounce this off more experienced builders.  This will be my sixth rod but the first one I have had to make an adjustment to the reel seat on. Thanks. Mike Wilson Spokane, WA

Mike, REC makes the finest machined reel seats on the market. You have a premium blank that will last you for years. I would consider checking their catalog and if you see something suitable call ‘em with all the FACTS. I am sure they would bore out a wood insert for you and answer any/all questions. Their reel seats are expensive but you get what you pay for – they’ll have some beautiful nickel silver hardware that will balance perfectly with your primo blank. Now the other alternative is to buy a wood insert and have a machinist or pro rod builder bore it out so it fits over your blank. Your favorite fly shop should have access to a pro rod builder who does rod repairs – they can’t charge that much to bore out a wood insert.                          10# fred —–= Posted via Newsfeeds.Com, Uncensored Usenet News =—– http://www.newsfeeds.com – The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! —–==  Over 80,000 Newsgroups – 16 Different Servers! =—–

Response:

There seems to be some confusion here.  You are saying that the ROD BLANK is larger than the inside diameter of the reel seat, at least those you have looked at.

No – he said his rod blank is larger in diameter than *one* seat he looked at, and smaller than the *other*, and he wanted to know whether it was better to drill out the smaller one, or build up the blank to fit the larger one. And I think he got the best answer – which is the same way my dad built his (and my) rods: use masking tape to build up the blank in three spots, then cram the works with epoxy… /daytripper

Response:

Hi Mike, It depends on what tools you have available to you.  The best way is to drill out the .312 insert…in order to do a first rate job of that you need a lathe or mill or at least a drill press.  The best way is to chuck it in a lathe and use a Jacobs chuck in the tailstock with the desired drill size. A second choice would be to chuck a .310-.312 drill rod into a drill press or mill, extend the quill (with machinery turned off) so that the rod is well into the existing hole in the insert and clamp the insert in place, retract the quill and using the desired size drill bit, drill out the insert. Assuming you only have simple tools (hand tools) available to you, I’d go with the larger holed insert and make a cork or Delrin arbor with a hand drill.  (Slip the cork or Delrin over a tight fitting bolt, add a washer and nut to hold things tight, and insert the bolt into a hand drill.  Turn on, lock in the "on" position, use a file or sandpaper to shape, i.e., "poor man’s lathe" style.  If you use a file, for safety’s sake, do it left handed, with the file on top of the material, your body toward the right side and with the file’s tang inserted into a handle.) Good luck, George

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -I am getting ready to build myself a 3 wt. Sage LL 2 pc. and have a question regarding the reel seat. All of the reel seats and wood inserts I have looked at typically come in sizes of .362 or .312.  My blank falls in the range of .340.  I have received two different points of view on how to deal with this.  One fly shop said to drill out the .312 and the other said to build a ship using either cork or other material.  I am leaning towards drilling out the .312 size but wanted to bounce this off more experienced builders.  This will be my sixth rod but the first one I have had to make an adjustment to the reel seat on. Thanks. Mike Wilson Spokane, WA

Response:

I remember drilling out a reel seat once.  Seemed like a good idea at the time.  That’s one mistake I’ll never make again.  It was a nice reel seat too!  TOO BAD. — Bill Endicott

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I am getting ready to build myself a 3 wt. Sage LL 2 pc. and have a question regarding the reel seat. All of the reel seats and wood inserts I have looked at typically come in sizes of .362 or .312.  My blank falls in the range of .340.  I have received two different points of view on how to deal with this.  One fly shop said to drill out the .312 and the other said to build a ship using either cork or other material.  I am leaning towards drilling out the .312 size but wanted to bounce this off more experienced builders.  This will be my sixth rod but the first one I have had to make an adjustment to the reel seat on. Thanks. Mike Wilson Spokane, WA

Response:

I am getting ready to build myself a 3 wt. Sage LL 2 pc. and have a question regarding the reel seat.   All of the reel seats and wood inserts I have looked at typically come in sizes of .362 or .312.  My blank falls in the range of .340.  I have received two different points of view on how to deal with this.  One fly shop said to drill out the .312 and the other said to build a ship using either cork or other material.  I am leaning towards drilling out the .312 size but wanted to bounce this off more experienced builders.  This will be my sixth rod but the first one I have had to make an adjustment to the reel seat on. Thanks. Mike Wilson Spokane, WA

Response:

I am getting ready to build myself a 3 wt. Sage LL 2 pc. and have a question regarding the reel seat. All of the reel seats and wood inserts I have looked at typically come in sizes of .362 or .312.  My blank falls in the range of .340.  I have received two different points of view on how to deal with this.  One fly shop said to drill out the .312 and the other said to build a ship using either cork or other material.  I am leaning towards drilling out the .312 size but wanted to bounce this off more experienced builders.  This will be my sixth rod but the first one I have had to make an adjustment to the reel seat on.

Ahhhh, nice blank. I’ve been told it’s best never to drill out a reel seat. I use masking tape to build up a tight fit. — Ken Fortenberry

Response:

I use masking tape to build up a tight fit.

Ditto for me.   I leave space between the tape "rings" to allow the seat epoxy to adhere directly to the blank. Joe F.

Response:

Best to avoid any drilling etc on pre-fabricated reel-seats. Use masking tape to build up the necessary blank diameter over the length of the seat, leave a space between each wrapping of tape, and coat the whole lot , including the spaces, well with epoxy before mounting the seat. The seat should slide over the "rings" of tape fairly easily. Make sure you use the same number of wraps for each "ring" and wrap tightly to ensure concentricity etc.  Before mounting the seat, add one last wrap of tape before applying the epoxy, the epoxy lubricates the tape to the extent that a very tight fit is still possible to achieve. Alternatively, if the wall thickness of the reel seat is sufficient, it may be possible to modify it without too many problems, but this is normally done on a lathe, and not by drilling.  Drilling may split the seat unless done very accurately and slowly with a very sharp drill. It may also be possible with a good sharp round file, but this depends on the material, and is quite difficult to do accurately. The masking tape method is very reliable usually, and is safer than messing about with the seats. TL MC — "In order to achieve what is possible, one must constantly attempt the impossible" http://www.mikeconnor.de

Response:

You can buy graphite arbors that you can fit to the seat and the rod blank.  If you can’t get one the right size (try anglers workshop, mudhole, or dale clemens) then you can build one with masking tape, fiberglass, or cork and use a two part epoxy putty to hold it in.  The putty will add weight so you need to test the balance of such a light rod.Drilling out the seat will cause weakness without adding a significant advantage in weight reduction. Mike Keyes – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I am getting ready to build myself a 3 wt. Sage LL 2 pc. and have a question regarding the reel seat. All of the reel seats and wood inserts I have looked at typically come in sizes of .362 or .312.  My blank falls in the range of .340.  I have received two different points of view on how to deal with this.  One fly shop said to drill out the .312 and the other said to build a ship using either cork or other material.  I am leaning towards drilling out the .312 size but wanted to bounce this off more experienced builders.  This will be my sixth rod but the first one I have had to make an adjustment to the reel seat on. Thanks. Mike Wilson Spokane, WA

Response:

As the others have, go for the masking tape to build up the blank. Three rings should do it, and epoxy over the surface of the tape and between the rings. Oddly enough I have a .jpg I could send you if you like? Tim Lysyk

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I am getting ready to build myself a 3 wt. Sage LL 2 pc. and have a question regarding the reel seat. All of the reel seats and wood inserts I have looked at typically come in sizes of .362 or .312.  My blank falls in the range of .340.  I have received two different points of view on how to deal with this.  One fly shop said to drill out the .312 and the other said to build a ship using either cork or other material.  I am leaning towards drilling out the .312 size but wanted to bounce this off more experienced builders.  This will be my sixth rod but the first one I have had to make an adjustment to the reel seat on. Thanks. Mike Wilson Spokane, WA

Response:

I use masking tape to build up a tight fit. Ditto for me.   I leave space between the tape "rings" to allow the seat epoxy to adhere directly to the blank. Joe F.

Double ditto with the added benefit that the masking tape build up makes it easier to remove the seat should it ever become necessary. I’ve taken apart two factory rod reel seats and both had been built up with masking tape. Cheers Visit The Streamer Page at http://members.home.net/pcharles/streamers/index.html

Response:

There seems to be some confusion here.  You are saying that the ROD BLANK is larger than the inside diameter of the reel seat, at least those you have looked at.  I checked two of my catalogs quickly and found many reel seats in almost any diameter you could want and you do want the reel seat to be slightly larger than the rod.  Look in: http://www.anglersworkshop.com http://www.jansnetcraft.com or any of the others previously mentioned.  The cork handle will have to be filed out to fit the blank and of course the handle must work with the reel seat.      May I also commend to you the detailed instructions at:  http://www.flyanglersonline.com/ then click on For Beginners and then click on Rod Building.  It helped me a lot.  You can even have it in English or Spanish.  He shows how to build up the blank with tape and fill with epoxy.  Do not use five minute epoxy because you will need a LOT more time than that.  Rod Builder’s Epoxy will be flexible and waterproof and will stick to all the materials involved, i.e. epoxy, varnish, graphite, wood, cork and nickel-silver or neoprene winding checks.      It is sometimes mentioned that you should break the gloss on the blank varnish (if it is varnished) so the epoxy can grab it.  I’m not sure that it is necessary on a light fly rod but I do it anyway.    If you haven’t done this before you may want to do as I did.  I put together a less expensive rod for practice and I was really glad that I did.  I learned on it and I have a backup rod, same line weight.  It looks reasonable but not as good as later rods.   Before you start, do you understand that rod building can be as addictive as fly tying and fly fishing, — — – Lou Lampe / Luis de Tucson, engineer retired.

I am getting ready to build myself a 3 wt. Sage LL 2 pc. and have a question regarding the reel seat.   All of the reel seats and wood inserts I have looked at typically come in sizes of .362 or .312.  My blank falls in the range of .340.  I have received two different points of view on how to deal with this.  One fly shop said to drill out the .312 and the other said to build a ship using either cork or other material.  I am leaning towards drilling out the .312 size but wanted to bounce this off more experienced builders.  This will be my sixth rod but the first one I have had to make an adjustment to the reel seat on. Thanks. Mike Wilson Spokane, WA

Response:

Question:

I would like to publicly apologize for slandering and libeling Jump Tarpon in my previous post. NO, I have never fished with him. Nor do I know him personally.Nor have I ever talked to any person that has fished with him. However, I understand he is a great guide with a loyal following, and a great site at www.flyfishing.keywest I picked his web site at random – intent on making someones life more miserable than my own. I confess, after suffering from penial envy for most of my life, I am jealous! At forty-three, I should not be living with my mother. But, life is cruel and I need to focus on changing my wardrobe from lace panties and lurking in shadows to facing the real world as a man. Share what you know. Learn what you don’t.

Response:

I would <snipped

this is the most gawdamnest advertising strategy i’ve ever seen. lines & business pretty slack in the keys, eh? –waldo

Response:

What kind of fuzzy logic is this piece of SPAM? – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I would like to publicly apologize for slandering and libeling Jump Tarpon in my previous post. NO, I have never fished with him. Nor do I know him personally.Nor have I ever talked to any person that has fished with him. However, I understand he is a great guide with a loyal following, and a great site at www.flyfishing.keywest I picked his web site at random – intent on making someones life more miserable than my own. I confess, after suffering from penial envy for most of my life, I am jealous! At forty-three, I should not be living with my mother. But, life is cruel and I need to focus on changing my wardrobe from lace panties and lurking in shadows to facing the real world as a man. Share what you know. Learn what you don’t.

Response:

Ditto!! – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I would like to publicly apologize for slandering and libeling Jump Tarpon in my previous post. NO, I have never fished with him. Nor do I know him personally.Nor have I ever talked to any person that has fished with him. However, I understand he is a great guide with a loyal following, and a great site at www.flyfishing.keywest I picked his web site at random – intent on making someones life more miserable than my own. I confess, after suffering from penial envy for most of my life, I am jealous! At forty-three, I should not be living with my mother. But, life is cruel and I need to focus on changing my wardrobe from lace panties and lurking in shadows to facing the real world as a man. Share what you know. Learn what you don’t.

Response:

I think he’s trying to sell lace panties to fisherman. In that case, I’ll take two. Chris Fleitman Fisherman by nature-goofball by society.

Response:

Funny that, I didn’t even bother to read the original post but I’m lost – especially about the bizarre ones that follow this directly –  frodo etc. Sorry chaps (actually I think you ,frodo jump tarpon et al] are really all the same one) but your strategy is so odd and obtuse that I couldn’t care less what you say about each other, or is that about yourself?  You are confusing me with someone who gives a damn! Right on Ernie and Walt!! DBJ – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I would like to publicly apologize for slandering and libeling Jump Tarpon in my previous post. NO, I have never fished with him. Nor do I know him personally.Nor have I ever talked to any person that has fished with him. However, I understand he is a great guide with a loyal following, and a great site at www.flyfishing.keywest I picked his web site at random – intent on making someones life more miserable than my own. I confess, after suffering from penial envy for most of my life, I am jealous! At forty-three, I should not be living with my mother. But, life is cruel and I need to focus on changing my wardrobe from lace panties and lurking in shadows to facing the real world as a man. Share what you know. Learn what you don’t.

Response:

What kind of fuzzy logic is this piece of SPAM?

I think maybe it’s a setup for an ad for lace panties, in which case I suggest we do everything to encourage further posts.  Always wondered what they felt like.

Response:

What kind of fuzzy logic is this piece of SPAM? I think maybe it’s a setup for an ad for lace panties, in which case I suggest we do everything to encourage further posts.  Always wondered what they felt like.

Ask TimBone ;^)

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I think maybe it’s a setup for an ad for lace panties, in which case I suggest we do everything to encourage further posts.  Always wondered what they felt like. Ask TimBone ;^)

Ouch!  That was hard!  God I love this place! W

Response:

Question:

I am going to camp with a small family group in Colorado just after the 4th of July for about 4-5 days and am excited about trying my hand at fly fishing.  My brother and I have backpacked in the Wiminuche Wilderness area with our father years ago and caught a few and are ready to do it right (with flies).   Any suggestions on what type flies to bring along (in general) and any information on the Cojenos or Rio Grande Rivers would be much appreciated.  We are going to camp adjacent to the Cojenos River at a place called Mogote.  We kind of expect to ask the local area people for some advice but anything we might find out before we leave would be a big plus in the planning. Thanks in Advance. Post replies in this group or e-mail (remove "no_spam" to do so). Michael Faber

Response:

Try a bunch og attractors like Wulffs(Royal, Ausable), Humpys,H&Ls,Stimulators. Check with local fly shops for flys and stream conditions. Pick up copy of Flyfishing Sourthern Colorado by John Flick, excellent reference. Good luck.

Response:

Question:

I am in the market for a new pair of float tube fins to replace the ones I currently use – which are Caddis fins. The new fins I am interested in buying are something called Force Fin float tube fins. They are advertised as being 40 – 60 percent more efficient than the average float tube fins on the market today. Here are some of my questions: 1. Has anyone used Force Fin float tube fins and found them better than the ones they previously used. 2. Does anyone knows how many models they have. 3. Do they (Force Fin) have a web site? Don. "May the fish be with you"

Response:

I am in the market for a new pair of float tube fins to replace the ones I currently use – which are Caddis fins. The new fins I am interested in buying are something called Force Fin float tube fins. They are advertised as being 40 – 60 percent more efficient than the average float tube fins on the market today. Here are some of my questions: 1. Has anyone used Force Fin float tube fins and found them better than the ones they previously used.

Force fins are great if you have to hike in with them.  They are very light, and provide reasonable propulsion.   For most of my tubing, however, I use a longer, stiff scuba fin that gives me more power. 2. Does anyone knows how many models they have.

I think they have two, one fits all sizes, one comes in S, M. L. XL, etc. 3. Do they (Force Fin) have a web site?   Don’t know?

If you decide to buy them, I can put you in touch with someone who sells Force Fin cosmetic blems for a good price compared to full retail. John Woodling Sacramento, CA

Response:

I’ve been using mine for three or four years and have no complaints. I do believe they are a little more powerful than my previous standard fins, and they are a little bit easier to "walk" in. Hope this helps! – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I am in the market for a new pair of float tube fins to replace the ones I currently use – which are Caddis fins. The new fins I am interested in buying are something called Force Fin float tube fins. They are advertised as being 40 – 60 percent more efficient than the average float tube fins on the market today. Here are some of my questions: 1. Has anyone used Force Fin float tube fins and found them better than the ones they previously used. 2. Does anyone knows how many models they have. 3. Do they (Force Fin) have a web site? Don. "May the fish be with you"

Response:

Personally, if you are driving to the lake, or the walk is short, forget about anything but SCUBA PRO Jet fins.  With these large rubber fins you can tube for hours and hours and never tire.  Your maneuverablilty is unbelievable and best of all you can tube faster than most powerboats out there!!!

Response:

Hi Donald: I don’t know if it really matters, but Force Fins are scuba fins.   They’re not super big hits in the diving community though.  It’s either because they don’t work as well as regular fins or because they look plain weird. Either way, I use regular, Scuba Pro-like fins for both diving and tubing.

<snip The thing is – I don’t want to pay $100+ for a pair of Force Fin fins if it does not perform at least as good as a pair of scuba fins.

<snip

Response:

You may be right, I beginning to think that scuba fins are better than the Caddis fins, Flip fins, Force Fin fins, or any of the short float tube fins on the market today. One of the reasons I wanted to get a new pair of float tube fins is to be able to keep up with my friends who are using scuba type fins to propel themselves. But at the same time, I wanted to be able to wear my wading boots with my fins, something that Force Fin fins will allow me to do. I was also hoping that the Force Fin fins will at least allow me to have the same thrusting power as a good pair of scuba fins. But by some of the responses I have been getting from folks here, it seems that a good pair of scuba fins may be more superior to a pair of Force Fin fins when it comes to propelling one’s float tube on the water. The thing is – I don’t want to pay $100+ for a pair of Force Fin fins if it does not perform at least as good as a pair of scuba fins. On large lakes, one does not want to expend a lot of extra energy to propel a float tube after a 3+ hour hike to get to a high mountain lake. Don. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Personally, if you are driving to the lake, or the walk is short, forget about anything but SCUBA PRO Jet fins.  With these large rubber fins you can tube for hours and hours and never tire.  Your maneuverablilty is unbelievable and best of all you can tube faster than most powerboats out there!!!

Response:

Look for fins that: 1- Cover your heel so you don’t chafe holes in your wet suit and don’t fill up easily with mud and sand when slogging around in the shallows. You can also wear booties to protect waders but it’s one more thing to buy, lug around and lose. 2- FLOAT. Diving fins are usually slightly negatively bouyant. Float tube fins do get scrubbed off when doing the heavy weed thing. Use tethers if your fins don’t float. 3- Flex rather easily. Diving fins are propelled by a slightly bent leg with most of the energy arising from the thigh, buttock and lower back. A float tube fin is propelled by the quads and a kick from the foot. Your legs will easily tire and your foot can cramp after heavy duty kicking with a long bladed, stiff dive fin. A flexy fin will sacrifice power up front but you’ll more than make up for it in the long run.    -Ralph – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – You may be right, I beginning to think that scuba fins are better than the Caddis fins, Flip fins, Force Fin fins, or any of the short float tube fins on the market today. One of the reasons I wanted to get a new pair of float tube fins is to be able to keep up with my friends who are using scuba type fins to propel themselves. But at the same time, I wanted to be able to wear my wading boots with my fins, something that Force Fin fins will allow me to do. I was also hoping that the Force Fin fins will at least allow me to have the same thrusting power as a good pair of scuba fins. But by some of the responses I have been getting from folks here, it seems that a good pair of scuba fins may be more superior to a pair of Force Fin fins when it comes to propelling one’s float tube on the water. The thing is – I don’t want to pay $100+ for a pair of Force Fin fins if it does not perform at least as good as a pair of scuba fins. On large lakes, one does not want to expend a lot of extra energy to propel a float tube after a 3+ hour hike to get to a high mountain lake. Don. Personally, if you are driving to the lake, or the walk is short, forget about anything but SCUBA PRO Jet fins.  With these large rubber fins you can tube for hours and hours and never tire.  Your maneuverablilty is unbelievable and best of all you can tube faster than most powerboats out there!!!

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – You may be right, I beginning to think that scuba fins are better than the Caddis fins, Flip fins, Force Fin fins, or any of the short float tube fins on the market today. One of the reasons I wanted to get a new pair of float tube fins is to be able to keep up with my friends who are using scuba type fins to propel themselves. But at the same time, I wanted to be able to wear my wading boots with my fins, something that Force Fin fins will allow me to do. I was also hoping that the Force Fin fins will at least allow me to have the same thrusting power as a good pair of scuba fins. But by some of the responses I have been getting from folks here, it seems that a good pair of scuba fins may be more superior to a pair of Force Fin fins when it comes to propelling one’s float tube on the water. The thing is – I don’t want to pay $100+ for a pair of Force Fin fins if it does not perform at least as good as a pair of scuba fins. On large lakes, one does not want to expend a lot of extra energy to propel a float tube after a 3+ hour hike to get to a high mountain lake. Don. Personally, if you are driving to the lake, or the walk is short, forget about anything but SCUBA PRO Jet fins.  With these large rubber fins you can tube for hours and hours and never tire.  Your maneuverablilty is unbelievable and best of all you can tube faster than most powerboats out there!!!

As far as the wading bots go, I use scuba fins and a pair of good ol’ Converse tennies for boots, and they work great.  I can outrace my buddy in his force fins quite handily.  He gets into the tube and the water more easily, however.

Response:

Good points all Ralph, but are you familiar with the "Jet Fin"?  It is quite flexible though it does not cover your heel.  By the way, how’s the situation at Martis?

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I am in the market for a new pair of float tube fins to replace the ones I currently use – which are Caddis fins. The new fins I am interested in buying are something called Force Fin float tube fins. They are advertised as being 40 – 60 percent more efficient than the average float tube fins on the market today. Here are some of my questions: 1. Has anyone used Force Fin float tube fins and found them better than the ones they previously used. 2. Does anyone knows how many models they have. 3. Do they (Force Fin) have a web site? Don. "May the fish be with you"

I know that Force Fins are very popular in northern California with the float-tubers. They make lots of models, but the fly shops usually carry the original model and the Adjustable. The originals come in sizes small, medium, medium/large, large, extra large and xx-large. The Adjustable come in one size and will fit over a boot or almost anything. The original sells for $85 to $99 and the Adjustable sells for $119 to $135. We sell the Caddis to people that are not traveling great distances in a day of fishing. They don’t float, so get some teethers. Bill Kiene Kiene’s Fly Shop Sacramento,CA,USA 800/4000FLY

Response:

0] : I am in the market for a new pair of float tube fins to replace : the ones I currently use – which are Caddis fins. The new fins I : am interested in buying are something called Force Fin float tube : fins. They are advertised as being 40 – 60 percent more : efficient than the average float tube fins on the market today. : : Here are some of my questions: : : 1. Has anyone used Force Fin float tube fins and found them better : than the ones they previously used. : : 2. Does anyone knows how many models they have. : : 3. Do they (Force Fin) have a web site? : : Don. "May the fish be with you" If you would like some entertainment, try posting this question in rec.scuba and follow the resulting thread/holy-war. Mike — Michael McGuire                     Hewlett Packard Laboratories Phone: (415)-857-5491               Palo Alto, CA 94303-0971

Response:

Question:

I want to get into fly fishing in the surf off of Southern California. Plan to use an 8 wt…..what is a good line to use? I was thinking something like the Teeny T-300….any advice? Thanks in advance.

Response:

I want to get into fly fishing in the surf off of Southern California. Plan to use an 8 wt…..what is a good line to use? I was thinking something like the Teeny T-300….any advice? Thanks in advance.

The T-300 is a great line.  I have a HiD "big game" Triangle Taper that I like alot.  The biggest issue is that as a beginner you will probably fish better with a sinktip, as controlling a full sinking line in the surf is not exactly easy.  It gets under your boots and around your legs much more frequently, and until you learn to handle it you are out of touch with your flies alot of the time.  If you already own the T-300 just learn to use it.  But if you also own a 13 to 20 foot high speed sinktip, you might want to use that until you get better at line handling. Phil

Response:

I want to get into fly fishing in the surf off of Southern California. Plan to use an 8 wt…..what is a good line to use? I was thinking something like the Teeny T-300….any advice? Thanks in advance.

YOU WILL DO WELL with shooting heads.  In fact, better. Mr. G.

Response:

that is what I call an excellent response. Thank you for being specific about lines and how to. bill

Response:

that is what I call an excellent response. Thank you for being specific about lines and how to. bill

thorough indeed, but it is just one side of a very complex story.  If we are talking short (30 to 45 foot) casts PARALLEL to shore, which is what most beginners and many old timers will be doing in California (North and South), I would still contend that a beginner would be better served with a sinktip than a full sinking line or shooting taper.  As I stated earlier, I rely on full sinking lines, preferring them to Shooting Tapers, since changing line density isn’t important (fastest sink you have is all you need), and that and distance are the only advantages of the shooting taper over a full sinking line.  Line handling problems, the inability to make aerial mends, and finger cuts are all good arguments for avoiding shooting heads whenever possible.  By the way I do use shooting heads extensively for lakes, steelhead, shad, Jetties, rare occasions when I’m casting straight out, and rocky coastal shoreline so I don’t have a problem with them, I just restrict them to where they really shine.  I especially stand by my recommendation to stick with what you already own, rather than run out and buy the new rage thing. Phil

Response:

Perhaps I should explain myself a little better: thorough indeed, but it is just one side of a very complex story.  If we are talking short (30 to 45 foot) casts PARALLEL to shore, which is what most beginners and many old timers will be doing in California (North and South), I would still contend that a beginner would be better served with a sinktip than a full sinking line or shooting taper.

The biggest reason for using a lead head is precisely because so much of the casting is PARALLEL to shore.  When casting parallel to shore you are putting the greatest amount of line against the wave action of the surf.  This is like casting directly across a current.  The current (wave action in the surf) exihibits the greatest influence on the line pushing it sideways and causing a belly in the line.  And of course the waves not only go in, they also ebb back out.  Little time is spent without motion in the surf. Floating line is the fattest and most susceptible to this action.  The good news is you can mend it, the bad news is you can’t mend it fast enough or well enough to compensate satisfactorily for the action unless there is a lot of time between waves.  The sink-tip is only slightly better because at least part of it sinks into the strike zone (sometimes as shallow as 1 1/2 ft, sometimes as deep as 6 to 8 feet or more).  The full sinking line sinks along the entire line which prohibits mending but gets the fly down better than the other two.  The fastest sinking line you have will work the best.   It will be the thinnest and least susceptible to the movement of the surf and you have to remember that salt water is more bouyant than freshwater.  Sinking lines don’t sink as fast in the salt.   The lead head allows you to use 300+ grains of weight in 24 ft of line (as opposed to ~210 grains for 30 feet an 8 wt.) and is much thinner than any sinking line.  More weight and less surface area allows the line to get down quicker and stay in the zone longer especially when casting PARALLEL to shore.  Again, a casting basket makes a world of difference in the frustration factor. Now the news about the expense of one of these lines is that you can make your own for less than $10 or buy one for $12 to $14.  Amnesia for a shooting line will set you back around $3.50.  If you opt for the flat beam running line, it will cost you $7. No more than $21 at the most.   If you don’t want to invest in an extra spool and backing, just remove your floating line from your current 8 or 9 wt. rig and tie on the running line and shooting head.   Probably won’t break the bank and will save you the frustration I went through using all of the lines I have mentioned. As I stated earlier, I rely on full sinking lines, preferring them to Shooting Tapers, since changing line density isn’t important (fastest sink you have is all you need), and that and distance are the only advantages of the shooting taper over a full sinking line.

Even forgetting about the distance, the comparison is not even close.  Even the fastest sinking full line won’t sink or track as well as the lead head.  Their diameter is too large and their weight too little. Bear in mind that the first 30 feet of an 8 wt. floating line weighs exactly the same as the first 30 feet of an 8 wt. type V sinking line.  Higher density lines just have the same weight in less space.  That’s what *density* is all about. Line handling problems,

Casting basket eases the tangle problem and will still keep your fly in the zone longer than full sinking lines even with the occaisional tangle. the inability to make aerial mends, and finger cuts are all good arguments for avoiding shooting heads whenever possible.

Type of line has *nothing* to do with aerial mends.  How and where you move the tip of the rod *after* you make the stop on the forward cast determines where the aerial mend goes, not whether or not it is a full sinking line or a shooting head.  "Aerial mend" means repositioning the the line *while* it is in the air. Finger cuts can be avoided by using saltwater tape or stripping guards on your stripping fingers.  White adhesive tape works OK if you can’t find the specific saltwater stuff.  I also use tape or stripping guards when using a floating line for bonefish.  Part of the problem with line cuts comes from the abrasive nature of the salt in the water.  The thinner running line does aggravate it, but the greater fishing success helps compensate for this. *SNIP* I especially stand by my recommendation to stick with what you already own, rather than run out and buy the new rage thing.

Using whatever you can absolutely beats not fishing, but using the right tool for the job makes a big difference.   Lead core lines have been around longer than modern fly lines, so I wouldn’t call them the "new rage thing".  Casting is the biggest problem most people have with lead heads and if you like I will give some suggestions in another post because this one is already way too long. I don’t mean to sound rude, but I see no reason why someone should go through all the hoops I did to arrive at this solution.  Nonetheless, do whatever you like to do, because you are the only one you have to please to enjoy this sport and you may like to use a different method.  I just think you should give this a try.                                        Hope this clarifies my statements a bit,                                                     Dan Dan Gracia Orvis West Coast Fly Fishing Schools

Response:

I want to get into fly fishing in the surf off of Southern California. Plan to use an 8 wt…..what is a good line to use? I was thinking something like the Teeny T-300….any advice? Thanks in advance.

Up in N. Cal one of the most popular lines for surf fishing is a lead head. This sounds scary, but actually works really well.  You can make your own or buy one from Orvis for $14.  I snagged one of the Orvis heads and then cut it back from 30 ft. to 24 ft. and put a loop on the end I cut off.  Works well on my 8 wt.  I use amnesia for the running line, but am going to try the flat beam running line ($7) that we just got in at the Orvis SF store.  Casting basket is a big help to control the running line.   The reason this works so well is that the lead core tracks far better than anything else in the surf.  Floating lines are real tough because the floating section gets whipped back and forth by the wave action so badly.  Same thing with sink tips.  Sometimes the full sinking lines work ok, but usually their cross-section is too big and gets pushed around by the waves too.  The thin lead core (I believe this is the 13gr. per foot version) sinks quickly in the more bouyant saltwater and stays in the trough or channel longer than other lines.  More time in the target area means more fish.  Not the most fun to cast, but not bad with some practice and very effective.                       Hope this helps,                               Dan Dan Gracia Orvis West Coast Fly Fishing Schools

Response:

Question:

Has anyone had any experience with the Loomis GL-3 series of rods?  I’m interested in their 9 foot, 9 or 10 wt.  I really can’t afford a GL-X or a Sage RPL-X, so I am considering the GL-3.  I plan to use the rod for salt-water surf fishing for stripers on Cape Cod and Plum Island.  I would like to use the Teeny TS-350 line for getting down deep and the Wulf SWT 10wt intermediate lines. I just want to make sure that the GL-3 can handle these lines without getting overloaded or even worse breaking the tip. Any thoughts? Thanks, don

Response:

I bought a GL-3 9 foot 4 weight and am very happy with it. I cast it and a Sage discovery and the GL-3 put out far more line thatn the SAGE noodle. Be sure to practice some casts with the GL-3 in that heavier weight, but the 4 weight is a pleasure to fish with. Trey Monroe

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Has anyone had any experience with the Loomis GL-3 series of rods?  I’m interested in their 9 foot, 9 or 10 wt.  I really can’t afford a GL-X or a Sage RPL-X, so I am considering the GL-3.  I plan to use the rod for salt-water surf fishing for stripers on Cape Cod and Plum Island.  I would like to use the Teeny TS-350 line for getting down deep and the Wulf SWT 10wt intermediate lines. I just want to make sure that the GL-3 can handle these lines without getting overloaded or even worse breaking the tip. Any thoughts? Thanks, don Hi Don:

My son’s 3rd rod was a 8 1/2 foot GL3 for a 5 wt line.  That was a very good rod for the price.  In fact I borrowed it when I could.  More of a softer action rod and it loads far easier than the sage rods. I’m not in love with the ultra stiff rods so I do favor rods like the GL3.  Best advice–go into a fly shop and test cast it.  Or maybe some club or guide might have one you can borrow for a few hours.  I have given up buying gear straight out of catalogs or magazine ads. Best luck fishing!!!!

Response:

Has anyone had any experience with the Loomis GL-3 series of rods?  I’m interested in their 9 foot, 9 or 10 wt.  I really can’t afford a GL-X or a Sage RPL-X, so I am considering the GL-3.  I plan to use the rod for salt-water surf fishing for stripers on Cape Cod and Plum Island.  I would like to use the Teeny TS-350 line for getting down deep and the Wulf SWT 10wt intermediate lines. I just want to make sure that the GL-3 can handle these lines without getting overloaded or even worse breaking the tip. Any thoughts? Thanks, don

I haven’t used a Loomis fly rod, but have extensively used Loomis casting rods in grades IM-6, IMX and GL-3.  I can say that the GL-3 rods are very strong and light.  They are, in my opinion, not very far behind the IMXs, if that.  I wouldn’t hesitate to try out the GL-3. — Hugh Scott                    Albuquerque, NM

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Has anyone had any experience with the Loomis GL-3 series of rods?  I’m interested in their 9 foot, 9 or 10 wt.  I really can’t afford a GL-X or a Sage RPL-X, so I am considering the GL-3.  I plan to use the rod for salt-water surf fishing for stripers on Cape Cod and Plum Island.  I would like to use the Teeny TS-350 line for getting down deep and the Wulf SWT 10wt intermediate lines. I just want to make sure that the GL-3 can handle these lines without getting overloaded or even worse breaking the tip. Any thoughts? Thanks, don

The G.Loomis GL3 series competes with the Sage DS series. These rods are in the $200+ range and are great values. They come in 9′ #9 line and 9′ #10 line in both companies. I would try to cast them both. We sell more Sage because they are a little lower in price and have an unconditional lifetime warranty. G.Loomis is not offering the unconditional warranty yet. If you liked the action of the Loomis better it should not make much difference. William Kiene Kiene’s Fly Shop Sacramento,CA,USA

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The G.Loomis GL3 series competes with the Sage DS series. These rods are in the $200+ range and are great values. They come in 9′ #9 line and 9′ #10 line in both companies. I would try to cast them both. We sell more Sage because they are a little lower in price and have an unconditional lifetime warranty. G.Loomis is not offering the unconditional warranty yet. If you liked the action of the Loomis better it should not make much difference.

The Loomis competes with the Sage DS in price only. IMHO, the GL#, at least in trout sizes, is a far better rod than anything else in the price range.  I have cast the 9 weight, and it is a little slow for my liking, but still better than Reddington and others in the price range.  Just my $0.02.

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- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Has anyone had any experience with the Loomis GL-3 series of rods?  I’m interested in their 9 foot, 9 or 10 wt.  I really can’t afford a GL-X or a Sage RPL-X, so I am considering the GL-3.  I plan to use the rod for salt-water surf fishing for stripers on Cape Cod and Plum Island.  I would like to use the Teeny TS-350 line for getting down deep and the Wulf SWT 10wt intermediate lines. I just want to make sure that the GL-3 can handle these lines without getting overloaded or even worse breaking the tip. Any thoughts? Thanks, don

I’ve been using the 9′9wt GL-3 for two seasons now and reach for it first more often than the Sage and Orvis rods I own. The GL-3 is lighter than anything you will try out and will load more quickly than most other comparable rods. I use mine for striped bass and bluefish angling in saltponds, backbays and estuaries. I prefer the Stiffer rods for open surf fishing, though, due to their greater ability to cope with headwinds often encountered in that environment. I’ve had two GL-3 rods break on me so far and G.Loomis replaced the rods no questions asked (they even accomodated a rush replacement to help me keep my place on a charter I’d scheduled not long after the rod had broken). I believe they DO honor an unconditional warranty on the GL-3, but you should ask your flyshop or call G.Loomis to confirm for yourself. The first one that broke suffered a fractured male ferrule as I attempted a power cast into a 15mph headwind (my fault) and the second was a snap of the upper section 18" from the tiptop guide as I landed a 20" striper (their fault). In all fareness, the blank could have had cracks from being hit with a 2/0 clouser during a poorly executed cast, but they didn’t give me the third degree; they just replaced the rod. I still think you should try out the rods and also take a look at the St.Croix rods. They also give you alot for the money and have a warrantee, but they tend to be heavier than the Loomis or Sage rods. Again, try for yourself. Dont forget to try the Kennedy Fisher!!! Good Luck,    Jose

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Question:

Hi I live in Malaysia (Kuala Lumpur) and I would really like to go somewhere and do some fly fishing in Malaysia. The problem is that I have not been able to find anything about fly fishing here. It seems like this sport has not arrived here yet. Is there anyone out there who can help me on this. I started fly fishing in Sweden, but moved to Malaysia before I really got the hang of it. So I do need to get starting again. Also, is there a shop where I can buy stuff for tying my own flies here? Thanks for any replies /Bengt Thur

Question:

Any info on possibilities of small lake or stream fishing here. I have heard there’s some bass possibilities here.

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There are lots of ponds with LM and Peacock bass in them.  I’ve personally only caught them on a spinning rod, but there’s no reason they wouldn’t take flies.  There may be some bass or other interesting creatures in the larger streams.  There sure are a lot of them on Kauai, and there are some nice flats areas that ought to be fishable for Ulua (Trevally) and their younger brothers, Papio.–Crashjibe

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Only stream fishing when i was there ran through Kokee State Park.  Purely "put & take" trout.  Definite for Peacock.  Don’t expect to find ANY gear there, though.

I fished some of the freshwater reservoirs in cane fields (get a permit…they’re free from the sugar co.). Largemouth and peacock a’plenty *:) I thought I remember reading where Kokee has a very short fishing season….did I remember right?

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