Question:

I have no idea of your motives BUT one thing I do know, DO NOT EVER SEND ME a private email again. 14 who was just wonder what your original post was meant to convey and who is now pissed that you sent me a private post.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text –     This is confusing.  Did you believe me to have a nepharious motive?  I don’t know what your motive is since I don’t know you.  I don’t believe you know me.  Let’s keep it that way shall we? 14 Hi all,     This posting was kindly provided to me by Lynda Cunningham. -snipped to save bandwidth-

Response:

    This is confusing.  Did you believe me to have a nepharious motive?  I don’t know what your motive is since I don’t know you.  I don’t believe you know me.  Let’s keep it that way shall we?

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – 14 Hi all,     This posting was kindly provided to me by Lynda Cunningham. -snipped to save bandwidth-

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14

Hi all,     This posting was kindly provided to me by Lynda Cunningham.

-snipped to save bandwidth-

Response:

    I did not realize it would upset you.  You can be certain I won’t send you a private e-mail again.  I promise.  But you do not have any right whatsoever to show such agression to me about it.  If you wish to protect your privacy then don’t include your e-mail address.  It is a simple matter to remove it.     My original post was intended to be helpful and interesting, nothing more.  It arose from the presence of the very disagreable post concerning cr**lty to animals.  I feared that a cross-posted item like that would harm the "nice" (I was sure fooled) atmosphere I found here.     You go ahead and be "pissed" at me.  But if you don’t want to recieve e-mails again in future it is your responsibility to remove your e-mail something.     Don’t worry.  I have removed you from my contacts list as I reserve that for friends.  And since I intend to forget about you, it doesn’t matter a tinker’s damm if you are "pissed" at me. Peter

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I have no idea of your motives BUT one thing I do know, DO NOT EVER SEND ME a private email again. 14 who was just wonder what your original post was meant to convey and who is now pissed that you sent me a private post.     This is confusing.  Did you believe me to have a nepharious motive? I don’t know what your motive is since I don’t know you.  I don’t believe you know me.  Let’s keep it that way shall we? 14 Hi all,     This posting was kindly provided to me by Lynda Cunningham. -snipped to save bandwidth-

Response:

Dear Peter… I have been a member of this ng for a very long time.  I don’t post as frequently as I’d like so I will say this to you… I was not threatening you, I told you not to do it again, which is not a threat, it is a request. If you ask other members of this ng about private postings that are uninvited I’m sure you will get as much information as you need to know, it’s a very tricky proposition here.  It is very scary for people to get unsolicited private email from people they do not know, especially when it appears to be a flame. Check it out… As for my email address… it has always been used on this ng and will continue to be used on this ng.  For you to tell me not to use it is absurd and I will NOT remove it, is that clear?  You have an obligation on this ng to check out whether or not a person will accept private emails before you send one. And BTW Itchy is one of my insiders, it’s not a joke as you make it out to be and I resent it.  My name is 14, a name, not a number. As for the animal post, I was not and will not be a part of that thread so I don’t know the history of it since I didn’t read it. 14 who is trying to not lose her temper because you are an new comer to the group. PS I never asked to be on your contact list!

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text –     I did not realize it would upset you.  You can be certain I won’t send you a private e-mail again.  I promise.  But you do not have any right whatsoever to show such agression to me about it.  If you wish to protect your privacy then don’t include your e-mail address.  It is a simple matter to remove it.     My original post was intended to be helpful and interesting, nothing more.  It arose from the presence of the very disagreable post concerning cr**lty to animals.  I feared that a cross-posted item like that would harm the "nice" (I was sure fooled) atmosphere I found here.     You go ahead and be "pissed" at me.  But if you don’t want to recieve e-mails again in future it is your responsibility to remove your e-mail something.     Don’t worry.  I have removed you from my contacts list as I reserve that for friends.  And since I intend to forget about you, it doesn’t matter a tinker’s damm if you are "pissed" at me. Peter I have no idea of your motives BUT one thing I do know, DO NOT EVER SEND ME a private email again. 14 who was just wonder what your original post was meant to convey and who is now pissed that you sent me a private post.     This is confusing.  Did you believe me to have a nepharious motive? I don’t know what your motive is since I don’t know you.  I don’t believe you know me.  Let’s keep it that way shall we? 14 Hi all,     This posting was kindly provided to me by Lynda Cunningham. -snipped to save bandwidth-

Response:

Hi all,     This posting was kindly provided to me by Lynda Cunningham. What is a troll? The term "troll" has several meanings on usenet. You have the Real Life[tm] meanings as given to us by Merriam Webster: troll (trol) v. 1.To fish for by running a baited line behind a slowly moving boat n 1. A creature of Scandinavian folklore variously portrayed as a dwarf or giant living in caves or under bridges. And then there’s the usenet meanings – which are actually rather similar to those above. In the case of the verb, the definition is close – with one small twist; _you_ are the thing that someone is trying to catch – and catch you they will if you aren’t wary. For bait, the troll will often take the form of a derogatory post – one that is designed to incite as much reaction as possible. For each person who responds, the poster will consider that person "caught". The troll is considered to have been a complete success if it disrupts the normal traffic on a newsgroup. In extreme cases, trolls are posted by groups of people and crossposted to unrelated newsgroups in an attempt to destroy those groups by flooding them with flames and off-topic ranting. Then, there is the noun, which again is nearly dead on, but this type of troll has an e-mail account, a global bridge to hide under, and a fishing pole to match – beware, for the hills are full of ‘em. How can I spot a troll? Most trolls take the form of blanket statements designed solely to generate as many irate responses as possible. Posts with subject lines such as: "Macs suck Worse than Amiga’s!" or "Mac Users are pathetic losers" Are most likely trolls. Also, trolls love to generate mayhem by crossposting derogatory statements to two rival groups and watching the sparks fly as the groups flame each other into oblivion. That being the case, it is usually a good idea to think _very_ long and hard before responding to anything that is crossposted. If you must reply to a crossposted message – edit the header to only include one newsgroup; otherwise, take it to e-mail – or risk being branded a weenie for life. Trolls can also pop up in existing threads. These are usually the most distressing as they are unsuspected. Suddenly, you are confronted with someone you believe to be a mac user , who has taken a ridiculous position which just pisses you off from here to hades.  Remember, if you find yourself thinking, "I can’t believe this guy", it’s a good chance that the post is a troll. You’ll know for sure if the same person is consistently stupid and infuriating throughout the majority of his posts to the newsgroup. Are trolls made by real people? Nope. Trolls are made by nasty little people who crave far more attention than they deserve. Most of them are inadequate losers with absolutely_no_lives_what_so_ever! Remember that, a troll, by virtue of their lack of a life, will always have more time on his hands than you – it’s part of the inhuman nature of the beast. Also, be advised that trolls will also band together. There is a group of people known as alt.syntax.tactical who make it their life’s work to destroy as many groups as they can. They consider a group destroyed when more than three quarters of the threads on a group have been started by them; and the group is unusable for normal traffic. Why do trolls troll? Ah, good question. While there is no way of knowing why all trolls troll, there are some good theories. The general concensus is that the troll is trying to build up a flaccid ego; the troll sees himself as superior to anyone who responds to the bait. The worst thing you can do, in the eyes of the troll, is not respond at all – to absolutely ignore them. By not reacting, you have completely defeated their purpose in life. In other words, the troll sees his self-worth in how much of a reaction he can inspire – ignore him, and you confirm his worthlessness. It’s your best weapon. What’s the best way to deal with a troll? Contrary to most people’s natural instincts, the best tactic is to do absolutely nothing. In other words, _DO_NOT_ respond to a troll. To do so is to play entirely into the trolls hands. I cannot stress this enough. If left alone, the troll will usually get bored and go away – leaving many happy Mac Users to ride off into the sunset doing various backwards and forwards victory dances. Read that last paragraph carefully. It is of the highest importance if we are to keep trolls at bay. So, remember, a troll’s greatest joy is to piss _YOU_ off. Unless you deny him what he wants, he will stay around for more – gleefully feasting off your frustration, anger, indignation and vain attempts to reason with him. If you look right through him like everyone else in his miserable stinking life has, then he will usually slither back into his cave and/or find his prey elsewhere. I can flame with the best of ‘em – shouldn’t I just drive them off? Unfortuantely, no. The above assumption is based on the premise that trolls are actually like real people. They are not; they thrive off of negative input. Input in any form makes them feel more important and will only cause them to stay. Sure, you may be able to successfully spank a troll here or there if you are good – and we mean DAMN good. Flaming is an art that many, many, try, few master, and nearly all think they are good at. As a rule, DON’T flame ‘em, it does NOT work and will only prolong the agony for everybody else. But they make me so mad I want to scream – can I? By all means no! If you must scream, do so at your neighbors cat or the PC at work. It will be much more effective than screaming at the troll. If you absolutely must respond due to some personal neurological disorder, please do so in email and not on the group. Admitedly screaming at the troll via e-mail isn’t always possible because of certian troll tactics, but it is your only recourse. To respond to the troll on the newsgroup will only invite alt.mac members to flame you and b*at you about the head, – and not necessarily in that order. The troll won’t go away – there must be *something* I can do? YES! Some trolls just don’t know when to give up. These can be referred to as "klingons" – as they keep "clinging on" to the notion that their continued presence his going to eventually make somebody snap. You have several lines of defense at your disposal. The first, and possibly the best, thing that you can do is learn how to use a k*llfile. A k*llfile is a list of people and places that you want your newsbrowser to ignore. Thus, if you add the troll to your k*llfile, you’ll barely know they exist. It’s like magic (amazing, eh?). The second major thing you can do is complain to their postmaster. The postmaster is the person who has the job of making sure that everything runs smoothly at a given news/internet provider. Since a postmaster is often overworked, the last thing he wants to deal with is some weenie on his site causing all kinds of problems. Thus, the only way to fix the problem is to get rid of the source. That’s right, enough complaints to the postmaster, and the nasty little trolls are gone – tossed onto the streets and looking for another cave to be miserable in. -BUT- and this is a big but, if the troll is using a forged account, your complaints either won’t mean a thing, or will get someone else (other than the troll) in hot water.  So, be careful and don’t do try it unless you know what you’re doing. Okay, then how do I contact a postmaster? really pissed you off for the last time and you feel it’s time to complain. To complain to his postmaster you would end it to: this, though, is many trolls use fake addresses or anon. remailers; so getting the trolls real address is impossible. If the address is fake (rather than a remailer), checking the header can often give you the originating site Also, a good letter to a postmaster should start with a brief and polite comment, saying that the troll in question is causing trouble on the newsgroup with his off-topic rantings. Most postmasters will not yank accounts just for offensive behaviour (thank goodness, since anything you say has the potential to offend -someone-); but they will yank accounts for persistent off-topic posting. Lastly, the letter should then include the -entire- text of the offensive post, WITH HEADERS INTACT. Do not edit. But, I want to rip the troll’s throat out so hard it makes his whole family hurt for years – what else is there that I can do? Well, while I don’t officially advocate it, you _can_ engage in "A Slight Case of Overbombing." That is: The Mail Bomb- a nasty weapon usually reserved for the nastiest of trolls and is best when done by many people working in concert with one another. Mailbombs _can_ blow up in your face, even if they are successful. Once a "person’s" mailbox is full, all mail sent is often reflected back at the sender. There are also other nastinesses that can transpire, but they are beyond the scope of this. What’s a flame? Well, the following is taken from the EFF’s Guide to the Internet, v.2.21 -it seems to sum it up the best: "A flame is a particularly nasty, personal attack on somebody for something he or she has written. Periodically, an exchange of flames erupts into a flame war that begins to take up all the space in a given newsgroup (and sometimes several; flamers like cross-posting to let the world know how they feel). These can go on for weeks (sometimes they go on for years, in which case they become "holy wars," [-usually on such groundbreaking topics as the relative merits of Macintoshes vs. IBMs]. Often, just when they’re dying down, somebody new to the flame war reads all the messages, gets upset and issues an urgent plea that the flame war be taken to e-mail so everybody else can get back to whatever the … read more »

Response:

I can’t make it okay for you, I’m sorry.  The only thing that has upset me is the private post, can you understand?  I don’t know Peter, he may be a really great guy, but I won’t accept the fact that he posted me privately, unsolicited.  That’s my only point in all this. Hope you are ok. 14

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – hopw we can stop now we like peter adn eveybody so make it ok ok?

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hopw we can stop now we like peter adn eveybody so make it ok ok?

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Question:

Yes, but I want to boycott the store for having such an annoying jingle! Pete

Response:

Indeed a great store. I remember shopping at the original Galyans’ in Plainfield Indiana when it was pretty much a pole barn on a slab (A really big pole barn admittedly) They’ve come along ways since their purchase by the Gap (yep the angst filled teen store). Allen Catonsville, MD – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Yes, but I want to boycott the store for having such an annoying jingle! Pete

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We just got a Galyan’s in our neck of the woods recently.  I went in to pick up some gift certificates for the crew at work for the holidays. What impressed me was the more complete range of quality that they carry over comparable stores in the neighborhood, like Dick’s.  For example, in the fishing dept they carry fly rods from Browning to Loomis.  For what its worth, it also seems to be the only chain sporting goods store in our area that sells handguns, and I respect that because it’s probably a bigger pain in the ass to them then the revenue it generates justifies, but they do it to remain "full service". They also have a customer service system where when a salesperson helps you, they peel a bar code off their own sheet and stick it on your purchase, and they read these codes when you pay.  This seems to be a nifty way to make sure that the sales people are doing their jobs.  I’m not sure if they reconcile this against the dollar amount of the sale (making it more likely to get help if it looks like you’ll be making a large purchase), but in any case I had knowledgable sales help coming up to me repeatedly. At checkout, they clued me in to their preferred customer club.  They make no bones about it–they want to track your purchases.  In exchange they will email or snail mail you with offers that seem to be in your buying categories, but you can opt out of these mailings.  Also, when you join this   "club", they will send you a $15 coupon off a purchase of $75 or more (the form says it takes up to three weeks to get the coupon). Store seems incredible.  I thought I died and went to sportsman’s heaven.  I was shopping so avidly I consider myself a traitor to my sex (sporting goods or not)! Scott

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Question:

I will be arriving Gatlinburg Aug. 4 in time for an all afternoon class and will be there for the rest of the week. Is anyone else going? Would like to meet to have a few beers etc. I am sure that Marc Pinsel as President and co-founder of The Classic Atlantic Brim Fly Society will call at least one meeting to do serious liver damage at one of the local bars. This is the biggest show of the year for the FFF and if you have never been to one it is something else! They seldom have the big show this far South, so it is a real opportunity for many of us. They are also having a two day long Bamboo Rod Symposium. The one I attended last year in Idaho Falls was very interesting. Big Dale

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Hi Dale, Gretchen and I are leaving today in the motor home. We plan on a slow trip and a little fishing in the process. See you there. Tight Lines – Al Beatty http://www.btsflyfishing.com

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I’ll make the CABFS meetings for sure.  I’ll be setting up the conservation booth on the 4th.  And I’m really looking forward to some of the casting clinics.  If anyone is going up into the park to fish, please post.  We had a great time at the SE conclave last year, some rain, but it was a great time. Dick Whiting – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I will be arriving Gatlinburg Aug. 4 in time for an all afternoon class and will be there for the rest of the week. Is anyone else going? Would like to meet to have a few beers etc. I am sure that Marc Pinsel as President and co-founder of The Classic Atlantic Brim Fly Society will call at least one meeting to do serious liver damage at one of the local bars. This is the biggest show of the year for the FFF and if you have never been to one it is something else! They seldom have the big show this far South, so it is a real opportunity for many of us. They are also having a two day long Bamboo Rod Symposium. The one I attended last year in Idaho Falls was very interesting. Big Dale

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Question:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I saw this post and it reminded me of my dad’s "proud papa" moment.  He took me out flyfishing (he let me hold the rod anyway) when I was about three year of age.  A small Rainbow trout happened to hit the gray hackle yellow body that was being used.  And, I landed my first fish on a fly.  My dad made such a big deal out of it that I just knew that fish was a treasure to be kept.  He could not talk me into releasing it.  So, I took it home with me and much to the chagrin of my mother, dad allowed me to go to bed that night with fish in hand.  I’ve been flyfishing with my dad ever since and he’s now in his 80’s. Barry My little boy, who turned 4 on Sunday, caught his FIRST fish today!!! (ok, it was with a worm)  It was a 10" Brown trout and you’ve never seen a little boy so happy and proud in your life. Just thought I’d share a "proud papa" moment. Wes        i know it is one hell of a judgment call, but i think that the experience related in wes’s post is more important than the life of that single fish.

        somewhere in the acceptance of that concept lies the middle ground for all our discontent that flows from the c&k/c&r confrontations.         a. wayne harrison – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text –

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I saw this post and it reminded me of my dad’s "proud papa" moment.  He took me out flyfishing (he let me hold the rod anyway) when I was about three year of age.  A small Rainbow trout happened to hit the gray hackle yellow body that was being used.  And, I landed my first fish on a fly.  My dad made such a big deal out of it that I just knew that fish was a treasure to be kept.  He could not talk me into releasing it.  So, I took it home with me and much to the chagrin of my mother, dad allowed me to go to bed that night with fish in hand.  I’ve been flyfishing with my dad ever since and he’s now in his 80’s. Barry      i know it is one hell of a judgment call, but i think that the experience related in wes’s post is more important than the life of that single fish.         somewhere in the acceptance of that concept lies the middle ground for all our discontent that flows from the c&k/c&r confrontations.         a. wayne harrison

Jeeezz, Wayne, let’s not turn the great "Proud Papa" thread into another c&k/c&r debacle.  Mark Faulkner

Response:

says… My little boy, who turned 4 on Sunday, caught his FIRST fish today!!! (ok, it was with a worm)  It was a 10" Brown trout and you’ve never seen a little boy so happy and proud in your life. Just thought I’d share a "proud papa" moment. Wes

cool…

Response:

I saw this post and it reminded me of my dad’s "proud papa" moment.  He took me out flyfishing (he let me hold the rod anyway) when I was about three year of age.  A small Rainbow trout happened to hit the gray hackle yellow body that was being used.  And, I landed my first fish on a fly.  My dad made such a big deal out of it that I just knew that fish was a treasure to be kept.  He could not talk me into releasing it.  So, I took it home with me and much to the chagrin of my mother, dad allowed me to go to bed that night with fish in hand.  I’ve been flyfishing with my dad ever since and he’s now in his 80’s. Barry – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – My little boy, who turned 4 on Sunday, caught his FIRST fish today!!! (ok, it was with a worm)  It was a 10" Brown trout and you’ve never seen a little boy so happy and proud in your life. Just thought I’d share a "proud papa" moment. Wes

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My little boy, who turned 4 on Sunday, caught his FIRST fish today!!! (ok, it was with a worm)  It was a 10" Brown trout and you’ve never seen a little boy so happy and proud in your life. Just thought I’d share a "proud papa" moment. Wes

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My little boy, who turned 4 on Sunday, caught his FIRST fish today!!! (ok, it was with a worm)  It was a 10" Brown trout and you’ve never seen a little boy so happy and proud in your life. Just thought I’d share a "proud papa" moment. Wes    that’s great, wes, worm or no worm.  i just hope he didn’t release the fish and eat the bait.

        a. wayne harrison

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My little boy, who turned 4 on Sunday, caught his FIRST fish today!!! (ok, it was with a worm)  It was a 10" Brown trout and you’ve never seen a little boy so happy and proud in your life. Just thought I’d share a "proud papa" moment. Wes

Congratulations, and thanks for sharing the momemnt. Mark Faulkner

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Question:

You might try using a hypodermic needle to inject some epoxy between the grip and rod. — Ernie Harrison Remove NOSPAM to send E-Mail Selling my Fly Fishing Books Go to: http://users.ccnet.com/~emh – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I built a GL3  7 1/2 ft 4 wt last winter, but the cork grip was just a bit loose before epoxying it to the blank. The lower 1/2 of the grip toward the reel seat was a pretty good fit, but the upper half has developed a squeak.   The grip is not actually loose but it is starting to feel sloppy (for lack of a better word).  Any ideas about how to fix this problem?  The fellow at the rod shop just looked at me knowingly and nodded his head saying "yup, I kin fix’er fer ye".  Which means stripping off the guides and replacing the grip. I’d like to try something less invasive but can’t figure a way to get the epoxy between the grip and blank. Patrick  

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I built a GL3  7 1/2 ft 4 wt last winter, but the cork grip was just a bit loose before epoxying it to the blank. The lower 1/2 of the grip toward the reel seat was a pretty good fit, but the upper half has developed a squeak.   The grip is not actually loose but it is starting to feel sloppy (for lack of a better word).  Any ideas about how to fix this problem?  The fellow at the rod shop just looked at me knowingly and nodded his head saying "yup, I kin fix’er fer ye".  Which means stripping off the guides and replacing the grip.  I’d like to try something less invasive but can’t figure a way to get the epoxy between the grip and blank.

The only sure cure is a new cork grip that fits correctly with no voids (empty space inside.) Glue is needed only in the thinnest film, to prevent the inside surface of the cork from separating from the rod blank at any point, under whatever stress, so that no void can begin.  Building with voids and filling them will be unsatisfactory in the long run.  The glues react to bending and stretching differently from both blank material and cork, and if more rigid than both will probably wear away the softest i.e. the cork, depending on blank butt stiffness and actual use. I.e. do it right or not at all, if you want to use this rod with pleasure and confidence for a long time.  A repair by injecting glue may be acceptable on a spare rod, used only intermittently, I suppose. — |  Donald Phillipson, 4180 Boundary Road, Carlsbad Springs,  | |        Ontario, Canada, K0A 1K0, tel. 613 822 0734         |

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[deleted] but the upper half has developed a squeak.

[deleted] Duct tape usage #309. — TimW – Halfordian Golfer Guilt replaced the creel…

Response:

I have successfully repaired a grip by doing the following: 1) Get some 2 ton epoxy glue. Do not use the 5 minute stuff or super glue. This glue will take at least 24-36 hours to completely setup. It usually comes in 2 hypodermic syringes that are fused together. 2)I put these syringes close to a heat source like a light bulb to heat the solutions which will make them less viscous. 3) Get a 10 cc hypodermic syringe from a physician friend, dentist or vet. Be sure it is clean. You will ruin this syringe.Get a 20 gauge hypo needle at least 1 inch long. 4) Mix glue while it is warm and insert into the syringe. 5) Insert needle into the cork handle and push the glue into the space. You may need to inject in several places. Put rod aside for at least 24 hours before you flex it. I have used this technique on several rods successfully. The holes made by the needle in the cork are small and have been no problem You can repair them as needed. The first time I tried this, I used a 2cc syringe. I was unsuccessful until I used the larger syringe with a bigger bore needle. The 10 cc with the 20 gauge has worked OK, especially after the warming of the solutions. Good luck and let me know how it works out. Regards, J.

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Snip 2)I put these syringes close to a heat source like a light bulb to heat the solutions which will make them less viscous.

I think Jack means "more viscous" and he’s right, warm it up slightly first. You can also use a hair dryer.

Response:

With all due respect, the viscosity of a solution is, according to physic textbooks:  " the property of a fluid which resists change in the shape or molecular arrangement during flow"  As stated in my post, we heat these solutions in order that they become less viscous and more "runny" if you will. A solution that is more viscous has a greater tendency to resist a change in its shape. Water for instance, is less viscous than molasses. My two cents worth. Jack.

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More viscous, less viscous…. I got the point.  Thanks for the advice all the same.  I’m planning on giving this a try this weekend.  Will let you know how it turns out. Patrick

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All the advice is good. I’d just be careful that you don’t hurt the blank itself when you do this. I could imagine having the rod splinter at the grip from a flaw you put into the blank. Of course it would happen on the 24 inch brown. FlyFisherRay

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I built a GL3  7 1/2 ft 4 wt last winter, but the cork grip was just a bit loose before epoxying it to the blank. The lower 1/2 of the grip toward the reel seat was a pretty good fit, but the upper half has developed a squeak. The grip is not actually loose but it is starting to feel sloppy (for lack of a better word).  Any ideas about how to fix this problem?  The fellow at the rod shop just looked at me knowingly and nodded his head saying "yup, I kin fix’er fer ye".  Which means stripping off the guides and replacing the grip.  I’d like to try something less invasive but can’t figure a way to get the epoxy between the grip and blank. The only sure cure is a new cork grip that fits correctly with no voids (empty space inside.) Glue is needed only in the thinnest film, to prevent the inside surface of the cork from separating from the rod blank at any point, under whatever stress, so that no void can begin.  Building with voids and filling them will be unsatisfactory in the long run.  The glues react to bending and stretching differently from both blank material and cork, and if more rigid than both will probably wear away the softest i.e. the cork, depending on blank butt stiffness and actual use. I.e. do it right or not at all, if you want to use this rod with pleasure and confidence for a long time.  A repair by injecting glue may be acceptable on a spare rod, used only intermittently, I suppose. — |  Donald Phillipson, 4180 Boundary Road, Carlsbad Springs,  | |        Ontario, Canada, K0A 1K0, tel. 613 822 0734         |

  Yah, Don is correct. But if you want to a better half-assed job inject one of the new polyurethane bond  glues. These glues expand in cavities and fill gaps. About 10 years ago I used this type glue for mounting grips. However, the company that mad it took it off the market because of poor shelf life problems. Now there is a new generation of these glues, one Brand Is Elmer’s Pro Bond. These glues have a good open time and a tremendous bonding ability (ask Norm Abrams). Good Luck -Doug Easton

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<snip But if you want to a better half-assed job inject one of the new polyurethane bond  glues.

<rest deleted for brevity Yeah, thats me… half an ass.  My wife keeps telling me the seat of my pants look like a family of Bedouins have recently moved out. Patrick  (suffering from no-ass-itis)

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got to your local pharmacy and get a syringe (disposable plastic) and then stop by your local fire station or even a vetrinarian’s office and get a GREAT BIG needle.  just shoot that grip down in there full of glue…..    At least, it seems reasonable to me… – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I built a GL3  7 1/2 ft 4 wt last winter, but the cork grip was just a bit loose before epoxying it to the blank. The lower 1/2 of the grip toward the reel seat was a pretty good fit, but the upper half has developed a squeak. The grip is not actually loose but it is starting to feel sloppy (for lack of a better word).  Any ideas about how to fix this problem?  The fellow at the rod shop just looked at me knowingly and nodded his head saying "yup, I kin fix’er fer ye".  Which means stripping off the guides and replacing the grip.  I’d like to try something less invasive but can’t figure a way to get the epoxy between the grip and blank. Patrick

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Go to a local woodworking store if there is one near you. They sell a hypodermic looking glue injector that is used to push glue into a joint to glue it. If there are no stores near you, go to http://www.todayswoodworker.com I believe you can order it from them. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I built a GL3  7 1/2 ft 4 wt last winter, but the cork grip was just a bit loose before epoxying it to the blank. The lower 1/2 of the grip toward the reel seat was a pretty good fit, but the upper half has developed a squeak. The grip is not actually loose but it is starting to feel sloppy (for lack of a better word).  Any ideas about how to fix this problem?  The fellow at the rod shop just looked at me knowingly and nodded his head saying "yup, I kin fix’er fer ye".  Which means stripping off the guides and replacing the grip.  I’d like to try something less invasive but can’t figure a way to get the epoxy between the grip and blank. Patrick

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I built a GL3  7 1/2 ft 4 wt last winter, but the cork grip was just a bit loose before epoxying it to the blank. The lower 1/2 of the grip toward the reel seat was a pretty good fit, but the upper half has developed a squeak.   The grip is not actually loose but it is starting to feel sloppy (for lack of a better word).  Any ideas about how to fix this problem?  The fellow at the rod shop just looked at me knowingly and nodded his head saying "yup, I kin fix’er fer ye".  Which means stripping off the guides and replacing the grip.  I’d like to try something less invasive but can’t figure a way to get the epoxy between the grip and blank. Patrick  

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Question:

I am looking for anyone that remembers an old lure called the Blue River Spinner . Its origin is believed to be in Southern Indiana and the maker from Shelbyville. Any info would be greatly appreciated.

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Being from southern Indiana and having spent forty years in the tackle industry to boot, I am sorry to say that I only recall the name but not any of the specifics about the lure itself. I will certainly research it for you and if I come up with anything, I will pass it along. Best Regards, I am looking for anyone that remembers an old lure called the Blue River Spinner . Its origin is believed to be in Southern Indiana and the maker from Shelbyville. Any info would be greatly appreciated.

         Trent Roberson            Rx F Fish  For Your Good Health, Fly Fish URL=http://www.xnet.com/~rxffish

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Question:

Will be cruising the BVIs in Feb. Thought that some light surface fishing or fly fishing would be fun. Do i need a license? Any details you can help with on tackle etc.? Thanks

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Will be bare boating Feb. Thought that light spincasting or flyfishing might be fun. Any experience? Do I need a license? Will be using the Moorings. Do they supply any fishing gear?

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Question:

writes:    A lot of people are touting the blood knot.

For more interesting reading on knots, including blood knots, try the current issue of FLY FISHERMEN where their test indicate that only two knots retain 100% line strength, given current tippet materials: the Palomar and the Trilene knot. Very interesting…

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I gave up on the clinch and trilene this year because they kept pulling out on big fish, despite very cautious tying. I quit using them because I decided

Without commenting on which knots are best, let me point out that most break-offs will occur at a knot, no matter which knot you use.  The UIAA routinely tests mountaineering ropes, and this is common knowlege to such testing agencies.  It makes intuitive sense when you think about it: stress is concentrated at the bends in a knot. — -Wayne Trzyna

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  A lot of people are touting the blood knot. Blood knots are not as good as they used to be! The newer multi polymer monofilaments are so hard and slick, the blood knot (and the clinch, inproved clinch, and Trilene knots) does not bite. We have a very sophisticated (read expensive) motor driven strain guage device that tests lines and knots to .01 pounds. 7 turn blood knots on Orvis SSS, Dai Riki, and Umpqua pull themselves apart at somewhere around 60-70% of the material breaking strength.

Ralph, I’ve abandoned the blood-knot alltogether because I’ve noticed an alarming decrease in strength in that connection with the new leader materials in recent years. I was beginning to fear that my own ability to tie the knot effectively had diminished, but your breaking strength measurements tell the real story. I now use the double-surgeon’s knot to connect the tapering segments of my leader and the double-surgeon’s loop-to-loop connection to attach tippets. Have you had the opportunity to measure the breaking strength of double-surgeons knots? Does the triple-surgeon’s provide significant additional strength? Thanks, Fred

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  A lot of people are touting the blood knot. Blood knots are not as good as they used to be! The newer multi polymer monofilaments are so hard and slick, the blood knot (and the clinch, inproved clinch, and Trilene knots) does not bite. We have a very sophisticated (read expensive) motor driven strain guage device that tests lines and knots to .01 pounds. 7 turn blood knots on Orvis SSS, Dai Riki, and Umpqua pull themselves apart at somewhere around 60-70% of the material breaking strength.

I gave up on the clinch and trilene this year because they kept pulling out on big fish, despite very cautious tying. I quit using them because I decided that after all these years of using them I must have lost the ability to tie them properly ! I never suspected the mono may be a contributing factor. Used the non-slip mono loop all year and it worked pretty well for me. I use double surgeon’s loops to join tippet to butt (when I use a butt).                                                 jc

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7 turn blood knots on Orvis SSS, Dai Riki, and Umpqua pull themselves apart at somewhere around 60-70% of the material breaking strength. Ralph,

Thanks for telling me the names of leader material to avoid when constructing tapered leaders. Ernie Harrison

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- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text –   A lot of people are touting the blood knot. Blood knots are not as good as they used to be! The newer multi polymer monofilaments are so hard and slick, the blood knot (and the clinch, inproved clinch, and Trilene knots) does not bite. We have a very sophisticated (read expensive) motor driven strain guage device that tests lines and knots to .01 pounds. 7 turn blood knots on Orvis SSS, Dai Riki, and Umpqua pull themselves apart at somewhere around 60-70% of the material breaking strength. I gave up on the clinch and trilene this year because they kept pulling out on big fish, despite very cautious tying. I quit using them because I decided that after all these years of using them I must have lost the ability to tie them properly ! I never suspected the mono may be a contributing factor. Used the non-slip mono loop all year and it worked pretty well for me. I use double surgeon’s loops to join tippet to butt (when I use a butt).                       jc

I’ve noticed the same thing with blood knots!  Thanks for the explanation.  I replaced the blood knot with the triple surgeons knot for any line/line connection.  According to a recent study, this line holds 100% of the weaker lines strength, wet or dry.  It’s simple to tie.  The only problem is that the any of the popular "double line through the eye" knots seem to be about the strongest, most durable knot I can find.  Anyone got a very strong, non-tightening loop knot as I fish for Stripers and like the free swing for the fly.  Most loops that I tie either slip or break and I’m looking for alternatives.  Most tippets I use are from 12-24lb Dai Rikki.  Thanks.     Tim —- "Just say no to bait"

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Hi Dan! Thanks for the kind words regarding the slide show.         Re: blood knots. Your formula for X number of turns for X size tippet is rational.          We lubricate the line with KY jelly (it is water soluble unlike silicone) prior to drawing up the knots. Then we soak the line in water to a). remove the lubricant, and b) to test the wet strength of the line and knot. It defies common sense to depend on dry strength for fishing line; however, I’ve NEVER seen anyone else do it.          Wet testing demonstrates some pretty wierd changes in tippet diameter, static strength, dynamic strength, stretch, and abraision resistance. The fluorocarbon lines really shine when compared against standard nylon and multi polymer monofilaments.         You probably want to know what leaders I use?! Umpqua pre tapered leaders because I get them at cost. I replace the tippet section with Dai Rikki Velvet for normal (trout) conditions or with Dai Rikki Diver when I need abraision resistance (toothy critters or abraisive bottom structure).         Tight lines, Ralph —

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   A lot of people are touting the blood knot. Blood knots are not as good as they used to be! The newer multi polymer monofilaments are so hard and slick, the blood knot (and the clinch, inproved clinch, and Trilene knots) does not bite. We have a very sophisticated (read expensive) motor driven strain guage device that tests lines and knots to .01 pounds. 7 turn blood knots on Orvis SSS, Dai Riki, and Umpqua pull themselves apart at somewhere around 60-70% of the material breaking strength.    Back to back uni- knots are excellent as are three turn surgeons knots. I still use blood knots on the heavier parts of my leader because the line is so strong there, someting up front is going to break even though the blood knots is not 100%. Blood knots look cool, sound neat as they click through the guides and don’t tend to catch as much gunk as other joining knots. In short I like ‘em alot but use them with with prejudice.    The strongest loop knot for attaching flies is the monofilamnet loop knot as seen in Kreh’s new knot book. Lefty claims the uni-knot is weak, but our machine says it consistently tests 90-100%. In practice it’s easy to tie and doesn’t take up as mucj material as the monofilament loop knot. Its big disadvantage is that the loop cinches up where the monofilament loop knot is permanent.    tight knots! Ralph —

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Question:

I’m going to be in Florida over the next weekend and wonder if there is any possibility of some flyrodding for Snook.  Any advice out there? -old willy

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I’m going to be in Florida over the next weekend and wonder if there is any possibility of some flyrodding for Snook.  Any advice out there? -old willy

Well Willam… depending on where you are going the fishing can be great. Here in SW Florida (Ft Myers) snnok fishing is coming into its primetime. Fly of choice for me is the Clouser minnow in any bright colors. Good luck

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Check out your local fly shops or better yet call them in advance with a small order of flies and they will probably point you in the right direction.  Local knowledge of tides and flies will help you out.                                                           Good Luck,                                                             Reddfin

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Question:

Does anyone know a mail-order outfit (name, phone num) that carries the velco-tie style of felt-sole wading shoe?

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Does anyone know a mail-order outfit (name, phone num) that carries the velco-tie style of felt-sole wading shoe?

I got a velcro-cloe pair from Hook and Hackle (in NY) a couple of years ago.  They have held up just fine.  They have an 800 #, but its at home and I’m not….  They usually advertise in the fly fishing magazines…. Nat Davis Virginia Tech.

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Path:

msuinfo!uwm.edu!psuvax1!news.pop.psu.edu!hudson.lm.com!godot.cc.duq.edu!new s.du
ke.edu!solaris.cc.vt.edu!usenet – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Newsgroups: rec.outdoors.fishing.fly Organization: Virginia Tech, Blacksburg, Virginia Lines: 14 NNTP-Posting-Host: dulcimer.ee.vt.edu Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" X-NUPop-Charset: English Does anyone know a mail-order outfit (name, phone num) that carries the velco-tie style of felt-sole wading shoe? I got a velcro-cloe pair from Hook and Hackle (in NY) a couple of years ago.  They have held up just fine.  They have an 800 #, but its at home and I’m not….  They usually advertise in the fly fishing magazines…. Nat Davis Virginia Tech.

The brand of velcro-ties I have is Pro-Line; they have held up for two seasons, and are great to have with cold, gloved hands. Mine are one size larger than my normal shoe size for the neoprenes. I bought mine at a store in Kalamazoo, but I have seen them in Bass Pro and other catalogs. Jim Johnson Michigan State University

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Does anyone know a mail-order outfit (name, phone num) that carries the velco-tie style of felt-sole wading shoe? I got a velcro-cloe pair from Hook and Hackle (in NY) a couple of years ago.  They have held up just fine.  They have an 800 #, but its at home and I’m not….  They usually advertise in the fly fishing magazines…. Nat Davis Virginia Tech.

Hook and Hackle’s number is 1-800-552-8342.  The shoes in question are made by Pro-Line and cost $32.25.  I bought Pro-Line’s 44mm neoprene stocking-foot waders from H&H for $65 and have been reasonably satisfied with the product. Hook and Hackle respond efficiently and have good prices. Peter Just

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