Question:

Hi, I’m looking to buy a my husband some flies for his birthday and am planning on spending around $50. Can any one recommend a well balanced assortment. He mainly fishes the McKenzie,  Willamette rivers (North fork I think), and a few of the high lakes like Davis. I too do a little fly fishing but I still don’t know too much about it. I would really appreciate any input. Thank you, Michelle

A few suggestions: olive pheasant tail nymphs #16 green rockwork w/ gold wire rib #16 beadhead grey nymph #14 Sparkle pupa emaerger #16 caddis and reddish PED’s for dries

Response:

Any self respecting fly fisherman burns his bank statements before his wife has a chance to see them. Crusty

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11429 SW Scholls Ferry Rd  579-5176 It across 217 from Washington Square.   It’s off the road in a strip mall ( about the first one when your going west) You can’t see it well from Scholls Ferry road but it’s worth looking for.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – If your around Portland I would go  to the River City Fly shop just west of Washington Square. I’ll be damned, a fly shop that I haven’t heard of before. Where exactly is this place located?  I haven’t found a decent flyshop since leaving Corvallis. Thanks,      - Ken

Response:

I second the recommendation to visit River City.  Don is a well versed fisherman, and cares for his customers.  You can’t find more stuff to tie with in the area. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – 11429 SW Scholls Ferry Rd  579-5176 It across 217 from Washington Square.   It’s off the road in a strip mall ( about the first one when your going west) You can’t see it well from Scholls Ferry road but it’s worth looking for. If your around Portland I would go  to the River City Fly shop just west of Washington Square. I’ll be damned, a fly shop that I haven’t heard of before. Where exactly is this place located?  I haven’t found a decent flyshop since leaving Corvallis. Thanks,      - Ken

Response:

If your around Portland I would go  to the River City Fly shop just west of Washington Square.  

I’ll be damned, a fly shop that I haven’t heard of before. Where exactly is this place located?  I haven’t found a decent flyshop since leaving Corvallis. Thanks,      - Ken

Response:

Hi, I’m looking to buy a my husband some flies for his birthday and am planning on spending around $50. Can any one recommend a well balanced assortment. He mainly fishes the McKenzie,  Willamette rivers (North fork I think), and a few of the high lakes like Davis. I too do a little fly fishing but I still don’t know too much about it. I would really appreciate any input.

Contact Hill’s Discount Flies  www.hillsdiscountflies.com Great prices and he should know about the Oregon rivers. — RockTrout, the ROFFian formerly known as troutman.. remove all x and y’s for reply email. To worry is folly so let us be jolly.

Response:

Hi, I’m looking to buy a my husband some flies for his birthday and am planning on spending around $50. Can any one recommend a well balanced assortment. He mainly fishes the McKenzie.

ahhhh… my home river. No matter what other flies the suspicious looking person working at x fly shop sells you be SURE to get him an assortment of sizes in: Green Prince Bead Head Prince Yellow and green Stimulators Bitch Creek Nymph in black and orange These are CONSISTENT producers on the lower 15 miles of the McKenzie and the upper Willamette. I always start here! Cos

Response:

You might write to Jeff and see what he can come up with. Jeff is from Portland and ties his own flies as well as teach fly tying. He also is a very knowledgeable guide. He know the Oregon waters well and can probably meet your need for flies. Here is his web page: http://www.donnerundblitzen.com/

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Hi, I’m looking to buy a my husband some flies for his birthday and am planning on spending around $50. Can any one recommend a well balanced assortment. He mainly fishes the McKenzie,  Willamette rivers (North fork I think), and a few of the high lakes like Davis. I too do a little fly fishing but I still don’t know too much about it. I would really appreciate any input. Thank you, Michelle

Response:

Michelle, I moved from Oregon 20 years ago, but still return to see family, friends and to flyfish. Kauffman’s Streamborn is in Tigard. I have not been there for a long time. The Fly Fishing Shop in Welches has a very knowledgeable and helpful staff. I frequnt their shop about once a year. Good Luck, guy

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Hi, I’m looking to buy a my husband some flies for his birthday and am planning on spending around $50. Can any one recommend a well balanced assortment. He mainly fishes the McKenzie,  Willamette rivers (North fork I think), and a few of the high lakes like Davis. I too do a little fly fishing but I still don’t know too much about it. I would really appreciate any input. Thank you, Michelle

Response:

A great way to find the right flyshop is to look at the bank statement.  Wherever he spends most of his fishing money is a place they’ll probably know him, and a place that will have a great chance of selling you what he’ll want.  They might even know of something else he’s been fondling, but hasn’t bought yet. My wife tried this trick last Christmas, and I was pleasantly surprised. Happy hunting, Chas Sounds like you have to throw yourself to the wolves in some flyshop.   I think you’ll be OK.  They know  you or your husband will never be back if you get screwed over.  Most of them seem to be in it for the fun anyway. Try google and search "fly shops Oregon"  lots of good ones.  If your around Portland I would go  to the River City Fly shop just west of Washington Square.  Tell them what you want and why they’ll take care of you.

Fix underscore in address to reply

Response:

Hi, I’m looking to buy a my husband some flies for his birthday and am planning on spending around $50. Can any one recommend a well balanced assortment. He mainly fishes the McKenzie,  Willamette rivers (North fork I think), and a few of the high lakes like Davis. I too do a little fly fishing but I still don’t know too much about it. I would really appreciate any input. Thank you, Michelle

Response:

Sounds like you have to throw yourself to the wolves in some flyshop.  I think you’ll be OK.  They know  you or your husband will never be back if you get screwed over.  Most of them seem to be in it for the fun anyway. Try google and search "fly shops Oregon"  lots of good ones.  If your around Portland I would go  to the River City Fly shop just west of Washington Square.  Tell them what you want and why they’ll take care of you.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Hi, I’m looking to buy a my husband some flies for his birthday and am planning on spending around $50. Can any one recommend a well balanced assortment. He mainly fishes the McKenzie,  Willamette rivers (North fork I think), and a few of the high lakes like Davis. I too do a little fly fishing but I still don’t know too much about it. I would really appreciate any input. Thank you, Michelle

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Question:

Sure there’s a better way, but to all those who replied to my post. Many thanks I will follow it up. Mike…. Why not propitious?  ROFF? Where else did you see it? Ian So many questions, so little knowledge!!!

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What do you plan on doing with the bottom and top? Never seen a cane wading staff before…. like to se it when you done john

Actually the old US 10th Division WWII ski poles are made of split cane, like a kind of hell-for-stout cane rod. I’ve got a couple around and have been considering coverting one. Mike — Michael McGuire                     Hewlett Packard Laboratories Phone: (650)-857-5491               Palo Alto, CA 94303-0971          

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Sure there’s a better way, but to all those who replied to my post. Many thanks I will follow it up. Mike…. Why not propitious?  ROFF? Where else did you see it? Ian So many questions, so little knowledge!!!

Too complex to explain the remark on the relative propitiousness of your question I am afraid, it would waste too much space, and probably not make much sense.  I believe I saw the post on one of the UK groups first. Probably uk.rec.fishing.game. ROFF is,  rec.outdoors.fishing.fly, and is an international group, although dominated by Americans.  You posted individually to the groups concerned, and so I realised it was not a troll etc, before I saw it on ROFF.  I replied to your e-mail because I was not certain which groups you read regularly, if at all, and you obviously really did want some info. TL MC

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Hi I’m trying to build some cane and wonder if anyone can help. I’m using the triangular formar method. The info I have is old so need to know what glues are best to use to a) hold the cane to the formar i.e it has to release with heat and b) to glue the cane. Having split the cane it has  side to side bows. i.e it zig zags. Should I straighten this and if so how or just cut oversize and plane straight thereby cutting across the grain more. My father used to build his own rods and I have acquired his cane and formars. I’m only doing it for interest and will only make a wading staff. Cheers  Ian

Response:

Hi I’m trying to build some cane and wonder if anyone can help.

<SNIP Just as well I saw your post elsewhere before it arrived on ROFF.  Not exactly a propitious time to be asking about cane on here.  No way you could know that of course. You will find all you need here; http://www.teleport.com/~gord/canelink.shtml TL MC

Response:

What do you plan on doing with the bottom and top? Never seen a cane wading staff before…. like to se it when you done john

Response:

Hi I’m trying to build some cane and wonder if anyone can help.

<snip I’m only doing it for interest and will only make a wading staff.

Ian In my opinion, seems like a lot of trouble to go through just to make a wading staff (hell, for that matter, it’s a lot of trouble to go through to make a fishing pole )  It sounds like you already have the major tools that you need.  Go ahead and make yourself a rod.  It’s not that hard. Mike Connor already listed a very good reference link.  Let me recommend another.  The Rodmakers’ site has a wealth of information on building cane rods.  You might want to subscribe to the mailing list and pose some of your questions there.  I would recommend searching the rather extensive list archives first, however, since a lot of your questions may have already been asked and answered.  Here’s a link to the site: http://www.canerod.com/rodmakers/ As far a straitening goes, most people today use an electric heat gun to gently warm the bamboo.  This softens it and allows you to straighten it by hand or in a vise.  This is a fairly tedious and time consuming process. Regarding glues, the choices are too many to discuss here.  You will find many suggestions on the Rodmaker’s site. Good luck and have fun! Keith

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I’d highly recommend the  rodmakers mailing list. I did when building my first rod and got a lot of help from some very knowledgeable rod builders. Paul

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Hi I’m trying to build some cane and wonder if anyone can help. <snip I’m only doing it for interest and will only make a wading staff. Ian In my opinion, seems like a lot of trouble to go through just to make a wading staff (hell, for that matter, it’s a lot of trouble to go through to make a fishing pole )  It sounds like you already have the major tools that you need.  Go ahead and make yourself a rod.  It’s not that hard. Mike Connor already listed a very good reference link.  Let me recommend another.  The Rodmakers’ site has a wealth of information on building cane rods.  You might want to subscribe to the mailing list and pose some of your questions there.  I would recommend searching the rather extensive list archives first, however, since a lot of your questions may have already been asked and answered.  Here’s a link to the site: http://www.canerod.com/rodmakers/ As far a straitening goes, most people today use an electric heat gun to gently warm the bamboo.  This softens it and allows you to straighten it by hand or in a vise.  This is a fairly tedious and time consuming process. Regarding glues, the choices are too many to discuss here.  You will find many suggestions on the Rodmaker’s site. Good luck and have fun! Keith

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Question:

Here in Oregon the general feeling is that any  GREEN fly will work. After fishing the Harrison, I think those ugly (but great fighters!) fish will take almost any fly presented to them. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -Harrison River has a good sized chum salmon population. Tips:  The trick is to get them early enough as to still be quite strong, and to try to hook most of them in the mouth.  I usually use an orange #10 corkie, on 6.5

Question:

Hikers need to understand something. Hiking boots are not made to walk in concrete. The soles are usually to soft. The concrete eats them up. If you plan to do some street hiking, go with a Timberland boot or somehing like that. If you really want a ‘hiking boot’, go with the Sundowners, Newbriers, or Skywalks. That way, WHEN you wear down the soles, you can get them resoled. Hal Why is misuse of a product the responsibility of the manufacturer? : My Vasque Hiker II’s lasted for 11 years and my Montagna’s for ten.  I : thought I’d never wear any other brand.  But the new styles seem to be : narrower and I’ve now switched to Raichle for fit.  I’d use caution : with the lightweight (leather/fabric) styles.  I bought a pair of : Vasque Clarion hiking shoes and destroyed them in six months on the : streets.

Response:

Anyone have Vasque boots.  How are they made are they durable?  Thanks.

Vasque (at least a couple of years ago) had a policy that if the leather uppers start to come appart before the sole is completely worn, they would repair or replace the boots at no charge. I bought a pair of discontinued all leather Vasque boots at a rock bottom sale price of $75 several years ago.  When the sole began to seperate from one boot a few years later, I took them back to the store to get them repaired. (at the time I was unaware of the policy, loved the boots, and was willing pay to have the boots repaired).  The store sent the boots back to Vasque and a few weeks later the store called and said that Vasque was willing to give me a $130 credit (the original retail price of the boots) towards another pair.  I took them up on the offer and picked up a pair of $190 New Briers. My current roommate had the same experience with the same type of Vasque boots (I think they were "Libertys") and he used his credit to purchase Sundowners.

Response:

I waterproofed the leather on my Sundowners (which have been fantastic) just in case, but remember that even if the boot is waterproof, you can still get wet feet from water/snow coming in the top of the boot.  Don’t forget gaiters if you’re hiking in snow or in cold rain!  :)

Response:

Newbriers, or Skywalks. That way, WHEN you wear down the soles, you can get them resoled.

My mileage varried!  On my 4 pairs of Skywalks, Sundowners and Newbriers the soles all came off before I had a chance to wear them down!  Luckily they stood behind their product and replaced them.  I have since grown tired of that game and got a pair of Raichles with a real stitched sole. Good Luck,                 Whitney

Response:

Re: Vasque boots Over rocks, through streams, over snow, over dirt, over anything, my Vasque Sundowners have been _fantastic_.  I go up to people trying them on in stores and tell these total strangers that my boots have saved my life on winter hikes (since I have never gotten wet feet while wearing these boots, even on eight hour hikes through wet snow,etc.)  I have never gotten a blister, never slipped off a wet rock, never had any reason except to recommend these boots!!!  I say thumbs up!  Buy ‘em!

Response:

Anyone have Vasque boots.  How are they made are they durable?  Thanks.

I have had my Vasque Sundowners for three years now.  Great boots.  Sturdy one piece upper construction.  Solid yet flexible sole. They break in IMHO quickly.  They are my winter boots (NYC), hiking, and allaround  walking shoes from Oct-April.  I have gone flyfishing with them-a few hours in waist deep H2O- came homw cleaned them and waxed them a week later– they came back with great flexibility.  I just spent a week out west, Zion, Bryce, GC. One hike was in Bryce-900 feet down and up during a 3 hour hike, on some quite steep trails.  Never had a blister, actually since I bought them.  I can’t say enough about them. I will definitely buy a new pair, if they are still made when I need to do such- in about six years, after having been resoled a few times. That reminds me, I have to clean them again and get the red Utah dirt off of them. Hope this sways your decision. Brian CHarles — Brian Charles

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        I just bought a new pair of sundownsers also.  I got them for pretty cheap ($160 on sale).  They fit the best out of all the boots I tried.  I would recommend them also, just make sure to try on several brands and pick the ones that fit the best. (Look at http://io.datasys.swri.edu/PATC/startout.html for boot fitting info.)         Does anyone use snoseal on their sundowners?  Or do you trust the gortex? Josh — —  Senior M.E. Student & Computer Aided Engineering          – —      Laboratory Partner                                      – —  Engineering School – The hardest four years or the        – —                       easiest six years of your life.      –

Response:

        Does anyone use snoseal on their sundowners?  Or do you trust the gortex?

I didn’t have time to seal them before I left on their first trip (I know, I know, I just didn’t *make* the time…), but they were quite waterproof nonetheless.  The leather did suffer quite a bit, however, from scuffing — I was in canyon country, very rocky.  Sealing them later has helped the scuffing, I think.  And I’m sure it has increased the waterproof-ness of the boots — but as I said, I never had any problems in the first place. Still, I think it would be irresponsible not to seal them.

Response:

Their cheaper models are for light hiking. Their midrange models are for heavy hiking/light backpacking. And their high end are for heavy backpacking. If you used the ‘cheap model’ for heavy use, I’m not at all surprised. If you told your sales person that you needed them for heavy use, he should have recommended a better pair. I work at an outdoor shop that sells Vasque and I know that any knowledgable salesperson should know the uses for the different levels of boots. Hal

: I hate to disagree with all the others, but I’ve had two pairs of Vasque : boots and neither lasted worth beans.  One was a cheap model and it wore : out VERY quickly (two months hard use).  I ascribed this to the cost of : the model — since I’d also heard Vasques were good — and bought an

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- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text –         I just bought a new pair of sundownsers also.  I got them for pretty cheap ($160 on sale).  They fit the best out of all the boots I tried.  I would recommend them also, just make sure to try on several brands and pick the ones that fit the best. (Look at http://io.datasys.swri.edu/PATC/startout.html for boot fitting info.)         Does anyone use snoseal on their sundowners?  Or do you trust the gortex? Josh — —  Senior M.E. Student & Computer Aided Engineering          – —      Laboratory Partner                                      – —  Engineering School – The hardest four years or the        – —                       easiest six years of your life.      –

I use Nikwax cleaner/conditioner and then apply a layer of Nikwax aqueous wax. The bottle says apply 2 or 3 layers for best results but one protects the leather well and provides for an easy clean up and retreat. The only time my feet have gotten wet in my Sundowners (4 years, great shape) is when the water is deeper than the boots are tall. Great boots! — Thanx for your interest. Tom "The thinner the air gets, the clearer my head gets."

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I like the Vasque boots I’ve owned better than any others.  My only negative observation:  in Scotland in December, walking on cold and very slippery beach stones in the western islands, I tended to slip more often than my friends, who wore boots with harder soles.  My Vasques now are the lightweight type with canvas plus leather uppers and fairly spongy soles, and the soles are now fairly smooth (I’ll need a new pair soon).  I found that in Scotland the cold made the soles a bit stiff and because they were smooth they were also slick. That’s not a complaint with Vasque boots, though!         Una Smith —         Una Smith               Department of Biology – OML                                 Yale University

Response:

Anyone have Vasque boots.  How are they made are they durable?  Thanks.

I like them quite a bit.  They tend to run wide, which fits my feet.  My younger son has similar feet and he’s gone through a couple of pairs of Vasques over the years.  Mine have worn quite well.

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My Sundowners have never let me down.

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I wear my Vasque in the same Utah scree fields and don’t have much of a problem.  (All leather) – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Anyone have Vasque boots. Yes, lots of people do–otherwise they wouldn’t be in business How are they made I don’t know how they are made. Presumably there’s some sort of factory like set up… are they durable?   Yes, if you never hike in rocks while wearing them.  I was going to get a pair of their $180ish (I can’t remember the name) boots but everyone I talked to who also hikes reccomended against them.  In the scree fields of the Utah mountains (where I walk most of the time), Vasque got a definite thumbs down. your milage may vary, mike.

Response:

My Vasque Hiker II’s lasted for 11 years and my Montagna’s for ten.  I thought I’d never wear any other brand.  But the new styles seem to be narrower and I’ve now switched to Raichle for fit.  I’d use caution with the lightweight (leather/fabric) styles.  I bought a pair of Vasque Clarion hiking shoes and destroyed them in six months on the streets.

Response:

I hate to disagree with all the others, but I’ve had two pairs of Vasque boots and neither lasted worth beans.  One was a cheap model and it wore out VERY quickly (two months hard use).  I ascribed this to the cost of the model — since I’d also heard Vasques were good — and bought an expensive pair (all leather) at a local shop.  These lasted a bit longer, but I’ve certainly had MUCH better durability with other brands. The Vasques were, I must admit, totally hip and extremely comfortable though. — "Die young late in life!!!"                           http://www.unm.edu/~pflo

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        You say your boots `wore out’. What wore out, the leather         portion or the sole? If it was the leather I’m surprised; mine         have lasted many years and I wear them every day. If it was the         sole that wore down, why don’t you have them resoled? I know         the last time I had mine done (by Morin Boots, Evergreen CO.         fyi) I was able to choose between a Vasque sole or soles from         other big name manufactures. I decided to stay with Vasque         because the softer material seems to grip very well.                 Scott   Marquette Electronics    8200 West Tower Avenue    Milwaukee, WI 53223             As anyone here will tell you: I speak for myself.        

Response:

Anyone have Vasque boots.  How are they made are they durable?  Thanks.

I love my Vasques – have used them for 4 years now – first in Nepal and now at home in Vermont.  Mine are the Gore-tex sided.  They were recommended by the outfitting shop over all the others they stocked and I have never been disappointed.  I have a friend who has the more expensive all-leather Vasques and he is equally satisfied.  One thing – I have always worn my boots with Thorlo Trekking-weight socks.  This may be key.

Response:

I believe Vasque all-leather Gore-tex boots are issue for National Park Rangers.  I don’t wear them because they don’t fit me comfortably.   That’s the most important aspect of any boot.  I wear a comparable Asolo which is very comfortable for me.  When you buy boots, make very sure they fit properly.  Fit varies according to manufacturer.

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: Anyone have Vasque boots.  How are they made are they durable?  Thanks.         I bought my first pair of Vasque boots in 1990.  Since then I have put them through quite a bit of wear and tear and they still remain in good shape.  Since I bought those boots so many years ago, my feet have grown AND Vasque has redesigned their boots, so I thought it was time to get a new pair.  About a year ago I bought a pair of Vasque Clarion Impacts for $105. I love them!  My little brother still wears my first pair of Vasque Clarions.         In all, I hear that Vasque makes good boots, and I totally agree!  I have also heard good things about the Vasque Sundowners and the Gore-tex Clarion Impact. -David B. Buckingham dbdbdbdbdbdbdbdbdbdbdbdbdbdbdbdbdbdbdbdbdbdbdbdbdbdbdbdbdbdbdbdbdbdbdbdbdbd bdbdb  UofL, Speed Scientific School                                         TIP#1836                             David Bryan Buckingham                              (502)397-5496 (pager)  Triangle Fraternity                                         HSC Lab Consultant dbdbdbdbdbdbdbdbdbdbdbdbdbdbdbdbdbdbdbdbdbdbdbdbdbdbdbdbdbdbdbdbdbdbdbdbdbd bdbdb

Response:

Anyone have Vasque boots.  How are they made are they durable?  Thanks.

Response:

Anyone have Vasque boots.

Yes, lots of people do–otherwise they wouldn’t be in business How are they made

I don’t know how they are made. Presumably there’s some sort of factory like set up… are they durable?  

Yes, if you never hike in rocks while wearing them.  I was going to get a pair of their $180ish (I can’t remember the name) boots but everyone I talked to who also hikes reccomended against them.  In the scree fields of the Utah mountains (where I walk most of the time), Vasque got a definite thumbs down. your milage may vary, mike.

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Question:

I just recently got a 4 piece Sage 8 wt. DS rod, and it broke while I was casting. I took it back to the local fly fishing shop and they sent the top 3 pieces back to Sage. He said it would take a few weeks to get back, I was rather disatisfied. It took 4 weeks. I just got the rod back a couple of days ago. However, it turns out that Sage only sent me back 2 of the 3 sections that were sent in and I have yet to hear back from them on whether they’ve found the piece or not. I think that since it’s Sage’s fault for mislocating the piece that they should ship it to my local fly shop via priority mail, either overnight or 2 day. Is there anything that I can do to speed up the process? or anything? Thanx in advance. Tite Lines, David Dreisbach

Response:

: I just recently got a 4 piece Sage 8 wt. DS rod, and it broke while I was : casting. : I took it back to the local fly fishing shop and they sent the top 3 : pieces back : to Sage. He said it would take a few weeks to get back, I was rather : disatisfied. : It took 4 weeks. I just got the rod back a couple of days ago. However, it : turns : out that Sage only sent me back 2 of the 3 sections that were sent in and : I : have yet to hear back from them on whether they’ve found the piece or not. : I think : that since it’s Sage’s fault for mislocating the piece that they should : ship it to : my local fly shop via priority mail, either overnight or 2 day. Is there : anything : that I can do to speed up the process? or anything? Thanx in advance. : : Tite Lines, : David Dreisbach David, Try calling Sage at 1-800-533-3004 and ask for their Customer Service Dept or have your shop call them. They have been good to me on broken prime and blems. I’ve only had one break while casting, the others while wrapping on guides. Keep your feet dry, Bob — lukn4fish Bob Madden San Jose, Ca

Response:

Hi,  I would consider 4 weeks turnaround as extremely good service. Some of the turnaround times I’ve dealt with were not measured in weeks OR months. The loss of the section is quite sloppy however.   Graphite can not be repaired so the section you were sent was a mismatched piece, a testimonial to consistent manufacturing if it still acts the same.   Bamboo can be easily repaired in the event of a mishap but it always takes much longer to get it fixed. Good release, A.J.Thramer

Response:

Try calling their 800 number(206)842-6608, and discuss the problem with the warranty department.  The Sage Company is a very reasonable and reputable group…they will probably take good care of you.

Response:

Question:

To Any UK or European Angler Types,   Does anyone out there have a good groundbait recipe for fish other than carp? Specifically I am looking for something attractive to small predatory or insect eating fish along the line of Bream and Perch Thanks in Advance

Response:

There is an article on ground bait in this months issue of In-Fisherman. I must admit, until I read the article, I had never heard of ground bait. (Apparently, it is very popular in Europe). The article specifically targets Bluegill (Shellcrackers). They mention using Spam, and other ingredients. Sorry, I dont have the issue with me or I would include the recipie. One thing I do remember was that they claimed that there is no better bait for Bluegill that have been attracted by groundbait than Maggots. I hope you can find a copy of the issue.

Response:

To Any UK or European Angler Types,  Does anyone out there have a good groundbait recipe for fish other than carp? Specifically I am looking for something attractive to small predatory or insect eating fish along the line of Bream and Perch Thanks in Advance

Chopped worms added either to peat (as a binder) or to a breadcrumb based groundbait always works well for perch. Tench and bream go for it too. Bream are traditionally groundbaited for with bread crumb based groundbait, containing samples of whatever the hook bait is.  There are lots of commercial groundbaits and additives which are good for roach, bream, rudd etc. Having said that, loose fed maggots are usually sufficient for perch. Steve

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First I’d like to indroduce myself for this is my first posting this   newsgroup. I live in the northern part of Germany and I’m thirty years old, I’ve been   fishing for various species with a lot methods for nearly twenty years.   I’ve been a serious carp angler for ten years but nowadays I spend most of   the time fishing for seatrout in the baltic sea either with fly or   spinning baits and I enjoy flyfishing for atlantic salmon in Norway Anyway, here we go:. To Any UK or European Angler Types,   Does anyone out there have a good groundbait recipe for fish other than carp? Specifically I am looking for something attractive to small predatory or insect eating fish along the line of Bream and Perch Thanks in Advance

Hello Curtis, Well, attracting bream is quite simple, first you need a lot of groundbait   because bream feed in great schoals and eat a lot. To hold them in place   for a longer time really needs a lot of bait. For a 5 hour bream session I   would recommend at least 3 gallons of groundbait, if there is a good stock   of bream the water. The difficulty in bream fishing is to get larger specimen (4 lbs + fish),   for they tend to travel solitarily the bigger they get. Smaller bream are easy to attract and to catch, if the water holds a good   stock and they live in large schoals.. The basic substance should be breadcrumb or bread. The groundbait should   be sweet for bream, vanilla is a very common additive and caramel, sugar   or koprah molasses are widely used by European bream anglers. Add maggots   or other live bait (worms) to the groundbait, about 1/4 of a gallon or so.   A good substance to add to bream groundbait are crushed butter cookies,   they can make up to 1/3 or even more of the mix. Don’t buy them in a   supermarket, try to get substandard goods from a factory or bakery. Good hook baits for bream are: maggots lobworms combination of maggot/lobworm combination of sweetcorn and maggot breadflake The "sweet bream mix" works very well for tench  either. When fishing for roach the mixture should be less sweet than for bream.   Hemp meal is very attractive for roach and cooked hemp is a fine hook bait   for this species (the basic substance beeing breadcrumb as well). And a substance used by European competions anglers is dove shit, believe   me or not, not much, some 2% or so. The Dutch and Belgian anglers have   used that for a number of years. Good hook baits for roach and rudd are maggots or casters. and especially for rudd the breadflake You’ll get a problem when there are a lot of carp in the water, because   carp like these groundbaits too. And they drive away the smaller fish   from your swim, when the occur in larger numbers. The only way of dealing with them in such a case is to get out the carp   rods …. . Attracting perch with groundbait doesn’t work. You can use a catapult and   shoot maggots in larger quantities into the water, this will attract some   perch but will attract more and more roach and/or rudd. Kind regards Wolfgang — Rivers and the inhabitants of the watery elements are made for wise men to   contemplate and for fools to pass by without consideration. (Izaak Walton,   The compleat angler, London 1653) ## CrossPoint v3.02 ##

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Question:

Does anyone know about fishing in Western Mass., particularity around Turners Falls/Greenfield and/or in Lake Quabin? I’m interested in knowing about bass, trout and/or what-ever-there-is fishing. I also love flyfishing.                  Thank you in advance!

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Does anyone know about fishing in Western Mass., particularity around Turners Falls/Greenfield and/or in Lake Quabin? I’m interested in knowing about bass, trout and/or what-ever-there-is fishing. I also love flyfishing.                 Thank you in advance!

I fished Quabin resevoir with my dad in the 60’s.  Most folks fished for lake trout.  I liked to cast spoons or spinners from shore and sometimes hooked some nice sized rainbows (19 inches).  I also liked to head up that creek which was full of brook trout at that time.  Since then I have heard that atlantic salmon have been introduced and have produced some excellent fishing.  There was a river called the icy river I think that was popular for trout.  Can’t remember where it was. Andy S.

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Question:

Does anyone know if you can fly to Karluk and just camp on the beach there and fish?  There is a lodge there; I wonder if they have any monopoly on fishing in the Karluk river. This is on the southwest coast of Kodiak Island, in Alaska. Appreciate any feedback anyone can give.  

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I would always be careful about camping on the beach in any location where there are substantial numbers of brown bears.  You can fly into Brooks River, for example, and camp in a USFS camp site as well as stay at the lodge.  But in the camp site, just a little way off the beach, all the food has to be cached.  And all the fish have to be cleaned in a single building, far away from the camp site. I’d check with locals on the available faciltiies at Karluk river.

04:57:08 GMT – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -Does anyone know if you can fly to Karluk and just camp on the beach there and fish?  There is a lodge there; I wonder if they have any monopoly on fishing in the Karluk river.

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| | Does anyone know if you can fly to Karluk and just camp on the beach | there and fish?  There is a lodge there; I wonder if they have any | monopoly on fishing in the Karluk river. | Hello, I was on the Karluk for a week this fall. Drifted to the mouth and camped on the beach. There are bears (big bears !) and you do need to be careful. Limited cabins (primitive) are availble at Portage. The real monopoly if you want to call it that is access. Very interesting and productive river. Regards, Jeff

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Question:

I’ll try to remain calm… I just heard about a guy here in Glenwood Springs that is attempting to get a patent for a new Green Drake pattern that he ‘invented’. I am (almost) physically ill at the thought of this. When we walk down to the stream (or lake or salt or…) to flyfish we are carrying with us the knowledge, spirit and soul of hundreds of years of tradition.  We can design flies,  but our basis is that of every fisher who ever wet a line. I can think of nothing more arrogant. Tim Walker

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- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I’ll try to remain calm… I just heard about a guy here in Glenwood Springs that is attempting to get a patent for a new Green Drake pattern that he ‘invented’. I am (almost) physically ill at the thought of this. When we walk down to the stream (or lake or salt or…) to flyfish we are carrying with us the knowledge, spirit and soul of hundreds of years of tradition.  We can design flies,  but our basis is that of every fisher who ever wet a line. I can think of nothing more arrogant. Tim Walker

I’ll agree in principal, but practicaly it wishful thinking.  Some people seek a living from the sport, and a patent can serve to protect their interest.  Pott Mite flies still carry a patent.  Parachute flies were patented at one time, and called "gyros".  Mike Tucker has a patented scud pattern (it’s excellent).  Many people today trademark the name of their patterns.  You may not like the idea, and I must say that a patent is perhaps going a bit too far, but only because it’s so easy to get around it by switching materials, or process.  If someone wants to, I’d be the last person to object, but I sure wouldn’t waste my time by doing it. —  Have a marvelous time, and be sure to get a lot of roughage in your Diet! Chaz ;-

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: I’ll try to remain calm…   … as will I … : I just heard about a guy here in Glenwood Springs that is attempting to : get a patent for a new Green Drake pattern that he ‘invented’. : I am (almost) physically ill at the thought of this. : When we walk down to the stream (or lake or salt or…) to flyfish we : are carrying with us the knowledge, spirit and soul of hundreds of : years of tradition.  We can design flies,  but our basis is that of : every fisher who ever wet a line.   This man may fly-fish but he certainly doesn’t fit my definition of a   fly-fisherman. : I can think of nothing more arrogant.   Nor I : Tim Walker   Izaak Walton had a little to say about "rich men" being a sad lot because   they become " vexatious " and ‘invent’ ways to hold on to their money .   This guy sounds like he’s inventing other things besides fly-patterns.   For crying out loud, who does he think he is, what tyer/fisher hasn’t   developed a pattern that works for him/her and is his favourite when a   a hatch of "so and so’s" is on … and I bet there’ll be a guy a mile or   so upstream using a similar pattern that he ‘invented’. In the interests of sharing patterns here’s one I ‘invented’ (given the constraint listed above) for use as a general search pattern on a small river that I fish quite often. This river has a population of freshwater crayfish, which are royal blue and black with a large white claw and white spots on the carapace nodules ( the spiny bits on the shell). The best part is the young also look like this and can be represented quite nicely on a size 10 long shank hook. Large black mayfly numphs also thrive here, with the distinguishing feature of these blokes is a white under belly …. So this Is what I came up with ….         hook: 10ls, 12, 14           tail: black cock (1/2 body length – good bunch)     body: black – antron, seals fur, dyed carpet underlay (cow hair) all work.         rib : fine dark blue tinsel 3-4 turns depending on size.         thorax: same as body material – just a bit of a hump not execessive.     wingcase: pale electric/iridescent blue feather from the wing of one of               our local Australian parrots (Rosella – Ithink – I pick the                           feathers up in the yard – the advantages of living in the hills         throat hackle: guinea fowl (natural)         NOTES:                 General nymph shaped body.             Weight for heavy water.         Fishing: Large (10) – fished down and across with little crayfishy jerks     in the slower sections.         Smaller – just like a normal nymph – upstream under a dry for an indicator.         It works well in grubby water as well as clear … well down here at least.         I would be pleased to hear about about any similar patterns  that anyone     knows of. steve Melbourne, Australia

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I’ll try to remain calm… I just heard about a guy here in Glenwood Springs that is attempting to get a patent for a new Green Drake pattern that he ‘invented’. I am (almost) physically ill at the thought of this….

The practice of patenting a fly, or patenting the design/materials/methods used in tying one, is not new.  There were British and American patents granted decades ago, and for all I know it has been done under the patent laws of other countries.  I doubt that anyone would begrudge a rodmaker patenting an improved ferrule, or a reel designer patenting a unique drag system.  But there is something about the art, or at least the craft, of fly design that causes us to resist the idea of patents being granted in this area.  You may at least take solace in the fact that fly patents are never likely to have much impact on the market.  If the fly is not effective, the fly fisher will not buy it and the patent holder will not benefit.  If the patented fly is successful (the McMurray Ant comes to mind), its success will likely be due to a design principle that cannot be easily constrained under patent law.  The balsawood-and-monofilament McMurray design really catches fish, but the principle was easily mimicked by closed cell foam-bodied ants, which have the added benefit of being more durable. Woods Hole, MA   USA

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   I think this patent thing is a great idea.  Just think of all the opportunities it will afford thousands of people across America.  I myself can’t wait until its in full scale across the country.  I want to be one of the firt to sign up for "fly patrol".  Just think of it.  I’ll get to travel across the country to its finest streams and rivers and check the fly boxes of each angler I see.  I can see it now.  "Excuse me, sir. Do you have the proper licencing for that Green Drake pattern?" Jason

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Parachute flies were patented at one time, and called "gyros".

Yes indeed!  I have a set of four of these flies, tied on #16 hooks; each has a ginger hackle and a partridge body feather tied in parachute-style. They date from the 1930’s and were sold by Alex. Martin, Ltd. of Scotland. One of the flies has a tiny piece of paper attached to the hook, reading: "Parachute" Reg’d. Trade Mark – Alex. Martin’s Patent 379343. Woods Hole, MA   USA

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        Sounds like the guy has an attitude problem.  I cna’t ever imagine a true flyfisher not wanting to share in his experiences and knowledge.                 Tom <:?

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Just to add to the list of patent fly patterns: I seem to remember that the Teeny Nymph was/is a patented fly, even though I’ve seen tying instructions (dead easy, really) all over the place. — Blair Sharpe Ottawa, ON, Canada

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I’ll try to remain calm… I just heard about a guy here in Glenwood Springs that is attempting to get a patent for a new Green Drake pattern that he ‘invented’. I am (almost) physically ill at the thought of this. I can think of nothing more arrogant.

Unless he’s really got something _outrageous_, the only patent protection available would be a Design Patent.  That means if he got it, he could bring suit to stop someone producing the fly.  In practical terms, read producing it _commercially_.  You, of course, and thousands of others, could be equally arrogant, tie his fly for your own use, and say, "So sue me for infringing your patent."  Getting a patent is a _lot_ easier than enforcing it. This is not legal advice, merely the reality of patents. — John Taylor    (W3ZID)     |  "The opinions expressed are those of the

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Question:

Heading down to SC for Xmas to see sis.  Is there still fishing there at that time of year?  If so, where, and any suggested patterns?  Reply here or to email.  Thanks. Martin Rooney

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(MartinR100) writes:

""Heading down to SC for Xmas to see sis.  Is there still fishing there at that time of year?  If so, where, and any suggested patterns?  Reply here or to email.  Thanks."" Martin, You can secure expert, friendly advice at "Foothills Fly Fishing" shop, 1908 N. Pleasantburg in Greenville, 803-292-2406.  Good luck, Steve S.

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