Question:

I am venturing into Vail in a week for vacation, fly fishing as well as shooting the Colorado wild ……Am amateur shooter,  I will shoot mainly around that area and the Rocky Mtn NP area….the elk are rutting and have come down from the high country as well as moose…. but mainly at dusk are the typical time schedules they follow although many can be shot in full daylight across meadows, you just cant predict nature…… with this type of low  light, I am wondering what film speed for such shots that I wish to blow up with out much grain showing….. Minolta HTsi +……TOKINA 28-105 …1:35-4.5 and Sigma 70-210 1:45-5.6……tripod…..and Jeep XJ Thanks All: Phil

Response:

I would use a 270 winchester with a 6X scope. You could go for a 7×57, but limit the shots to broadside and 300 yards tops. John O.

Response:

Yes and not when he is standin the water….   : )

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I would use a 270 winchester with a 6X scope. You could go for a 7×57, but limit the shots to broadside and 300 yards tops. John O.

Response:

<< I would use a 270 winchester with a 6X scope. You could go for a 7×57, but limit the shots to broadside and 300 yards tops. As soon as I saw the thread header I figured it wouldn’t be long before someone recommended a caliber or a particular rifle but I must admit this was faster than I imagined . . .

Response:

    You are going to need a fast car,  those guys are not real friendly — Dia ’s Muire duit Joe M

Response:

I know this is off topic but will a 270 really stop an Elk?  I’ve never hunted Elk but I’ve seen them.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Yes and not when he is standin the water….   : ) I would use a 270 winchester with a 6X scope. You could go for a 7×57, but limit the shots to broadside and 300 yards tops. John O.

Response:

After the shot from the 270, you will need something to haul him in. Forget the car. Eric Miller

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text –     You are going to need a fast car,  those guys are not real friendly — Dia ’s Muire duit Joe M

Response:

Film?  All speed you can get! With a f/5.6 lens in low light you’ll need ISO 800-1600 to get any decent shutter speed.  At that speed almost anything will do – Fuji or Kodak. But with your relatively short lenses, you have a very small chance to approach an elk in the wild…400-500 mm glass is more suitable, although once an Elk run just past me in RMNP while I stood like a dolt with a 400 mm lens… Perhaps you can get some decent pics from the road on the meadows in the RM Park, but it’s getting too late for that.  Anyway, if you wish to try, use the Estes Park Entrance (a rather long rode from Vail – back over the pass, the Eisenhower tunnel, Boulder to Estes Park. – 150+ miles each way.) Or you can try the Grand Lake area – much closer, go in the direction of Winter Park, but there may be no way to drive far into the Park through the west entrance as Trail Ridge Road closes around mid-October. (Try http://www.coloradoguide.com/rmnp/frame1.htm   for more info.) In any event, Grand Lake is very picturesque. Michael

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I am venturing into Vail in a week for vacation, fly fishing as well as shooting the Colorado wild ……Am amateur shooter,  I will shoot mainly around that area and the Rocky Mtn NP area….the elk are rutting and have come down from the high country as well as moose…. but mainly at dusk are the typical time schedules they follow although many can be shot in full daylight across meadows, you just cant predict nature…… with this type of low  light, I am wondering what film speed for such shots that I wish to blow up with out much grain showing….. Minolta HTsi +……TOKINA 28-105 …1:35-4.5 and Sigma 70-210 1:45-5.6……tripod…..and Jeep XJ Thanks All: Phil

Response:

I would use a 270 winchester with a 6X scope. You could go for a 7×57, but limit the shots to broadside and 300 yards tops.

Model 70 Winchester in .300 or .338 WinMag and 3.5×10 Nikon scope.  Then you can get really close to the elk for photos.  (Fuji Superia 400 will hold up to some decent enlargement.  It’s my favorite fast print film, although I still haven’t tried the new Kodak stuff….) Good shooting, Bob Scott

Response:

150 heavy bullet, good placement, dead in their tracks. John O.

Response:

@aol.com says… I would use a 270 winchester with a 6X scope. You could go for a 7×57, but limit the shots to broadside and 300 yards tops. John O.

        Wow the hipocracy of it, one minute your taking pictures of it the next you want to kill it. — James Grove http://www.jamesgrove.co.uk

Response:

Wow the hipocracy of it, one minute your taking pictures of it the next you want to kill it.

Can’t you eat elk?

Response:

   Wow the hipocracy of it, one minute your taking pictures of it the next you want to kill it.

Twit, you shoot it first, then come the photos. John O.

Response:

Shooting any kind of deer requires a long lens (in at least the 400mm range generally). Try to borrow or rent a lens like this and also try to get a 1.4x teleconverter (to use with the long lens as well as your Sigma). Forget the slow films, you need speed. An ASA100 film may have smaller grain but that will do you no good if the elk moves while using a long shutter speed. I would not hesitate to use a film of at least 400ASA to get the fastest shutter speed as possible in the low light conditions. You may also be dealing with wind as the air begins to warm, which will require the fast film and shutter cable, even while on the tripod. If you find you need even more speed, push the roll one stop. If you desire a close up shot, a Remington bolt with 30/06 180gr and Swarovski scope will get you in range (if you don’t flinch or get buck fever). You’ll then be able to use an ASA25 with tripod mounted camera. :~) Richard

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I am venturing into Vail in a week for vacation, fly fishing as well as shooting the Colorado wild ……Am amateur shooter,  I will shoot mainly around that area and the Rocky Mtn NP area….the elk are rutting and have come down from the high country as well as moose…. but mainly at dusk are the typical time schedules they follow although many can be shot in full daylight across meadows, you just cant predict nature…… with this type of low  light, I am wondering what film speed for such shots that I wish to blow up with out much grain showing….. Minolta HTsi +……TOKINA 28-105 …1:35-4.5 and Sigma 70-210 1:45-5.6……tripod…..and Jeep XJ Thanks All: Phil

Response:

Question:

Not hate-mail, more.. why?? If all fisheries would close on any holy day of all religions, there would be very little fishing left. If you don’t want to fish on sabbath, by all means, be my guest. But to deny it to people of other (or none) religions is taking it too far. Herman – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – What’s the URL? It’s a nice web-site.  It’s also nice to see a company closed for the Sabbath.  I wish more fishing lodges would do this. I know.  I know.  I’m going to get hate e-mail for this. — Vern My ROFF page: http://msnhomepages.talkcity.com/ResortRd/v_deloy/ROFFintro.html Before you buy.

–         Cheers, Herman         Herman Nijland         Daytime webmaster         Lifetime flyfisher

Response:

Well that is all very well Vern, but whose or which Sabbath ?  In some places the companies would only be able to open two days a week. TL MC — "In order to achieve what is possible, one must constantly attempt the impossible" http://www.mikeconnor.de

Response:

Okay, I understand. I was using the standard Christian Sabbath. I might be suffering from just a little bit of ethocetrism. Just a little. Vern

        oh, hell! ethocetrism, at *your* age?  my grandaddy got a little bait of it when he was about 65, but he whipped it.  doc martin put him on a strict diet of oral sex with foreigners, and he was fit as a fiddle in 30 days.  give it a whirl, vern. wayno, always willing to help an ailing roffian.

Response:

oh, hell! ethocetrism, at *your* age?

At my age? Blackcat is just about my age and look at him. I’m over weight and eat like a fat pit. Sometimes I wonder if I’m having problems. Just thinking about Blackcat scares the hell out of me. Yes at my age. — Vern My ROFF page: http://msnhomepages.talkcity.com/ResortRd/v_deloy/ROFFintro.html Before you buy.

Response:

Thanks James

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – James, the prices on your beat are surely not bad when compared to, for example, most of the british daytickets (for trout – wouldn’t know about salmon). Definitely not ripping off. I came across several payed fisheries in Ireland, some ridiculously expensive, but most of them very reasonably prized, more or less in the same region as your rates. I merely pointed out that apart from the payed fisheries there’s still a wealth of free water around – but you have to take your time to find it and explore it. If I had only a few days I’d probably fish the well-known spots. Good luck with the business, Herman The site is aimed more at the salmon fisherman but as a kid I used to catch the most beautiful brownies here. Regarding the price, I have been looking at other sites and I thought my rates were very reasonable, considering there is no one else going to be fishing the beat and the lodge is fully equipped for self catering…if not, please let me know because my intention in letting the fishery and lodge is to get some good records, not to rip of tourist fishermen. It is fished only infrequently by family and friends who have generally been successful, but I want a more accurate seasonal view of the fishing. James Depends where you’re going. Generally fishing for brown trout in Ireland is *free*. Unless, of course, you choose to fish the well known, regulated waters like for instance the Blackwater. If you like to (or have to, like me) fish on a budget, fish the tributaries, the lochs and all those other lovely streams which are either free or cheap to fish. Last time I was there I bought a year ticket for the Dee in Limerick for about 6 Irish pounds. Herman <snip looks ok, things are getting pricey in Ireland these days from what I gathered. Flyfish Just finished our new site and I would like a bit of feedback on what other information you would like to see on it before I publish the final site. Cheers James — Cheers, Herman Herman Nijland Daytime webmaster Lifetime flyfisher — Cheers, Herman Herman Nijland Daytime webmaster Lifetime flyfisher

Response:

James

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Just finished our new site and I would like a bit of feedback James     What’s the URL?

Response:

heh where were you guys when I was in Klonmel (‘88-’89)? fished the Suir then at knocklofty house and had some luck… looks ok, things are getting pricey in Ireland these days from what I gathered. Flyfish

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Just finished our new site and I would like a bit of feedback on what other information you would like to see on it before I publish the final site. Cheers James

Response:

Depends where you’re going. Generally fishing for brown trout in Ireland is *free*. Unless, of course, you choose to fish the well known, regulated waters like for instance the Blackwater. If you like to (or have to, like me) fish on a budget, fish the tributaries, the lochs and all those other lovely streams which are either free or cheap to fish. Last time I was there I bought a year ticket for the Dee in Limerick for about 6 Irish pounds. Herman

<snip looks ok, things are getting pricey in Ireland these days from what I gathered. Flyfish Just finished our new site and I would like a bit of feedback on what other information you would like to see on it before I publish the final site. Cheers James

–         Cheers, Herman         Herman Nijland         Daytime webmaster         Lifetime flyfisher

Response:

James, the prices on your beat are surely not bad when compared to, for example, most of the british daytickets (for trout – wouldn’t know about salmon). Definitely not ripping off. I came across several payed fisheries in Ireland, some ridiculously expensive, but most of them very reasonably prized, more or less in the same region as your rates. I merely pointed out that apart from the payed fisheries there’s still a wealth of free water around – but you have to take your time to find it and explore it. If I had only a few days I’d probably fish the well-known spots. Good luck with the business, Herman – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – The site is aimed more at the salmon fisherman but as a kid I used to catch the most beautiful brownies here. Regarding the price, I have been looking at other sites and I thought my rates were very reasonable, considering there is no one else going to be fishing the beat and the lodge is fully equipped for self catering…if not, please let me know because my intention in letting the fishery and lodge is to get some good records, not to rip of tourist fishermen. It is fished only infrequently by family and friends who have generally been successful, but I want a more accurate seasonal view of the fishing. James Depends where you’re going. Generally fishing for brown trout in Ireland is *free*. Unless, of course, you choose to fish the well known, regulated waters like for instance the Blackwater. If you like to (or have to, like me) fish on a budget, fish the tributaries, the lochs and all those other lovely streams which are either free or cheap to fish. Last time I was there I bought a year ticket for the Dee in Limerick for about 6 Irish pounds. Herman <snip looks ok, things are getting pricey in Ireland these days from what I gathered. Flyfish Just finished our new site and I would like a bit of feedback on what other information you would like to see on it before I publish the final site. Cheers James — Cheers, Herman Herman Nijland Daytime webmaster Lifetime flyfisher

–         Cheers, Herman         Herman Nijland         Daytime webmaster         Lifetime flyfisher

Response:

What’s the URL?

It’s a nice web-site.  It’s also nice to see a company closed for the Sabbath.  I wish more fishing lodges would do this. I know.  I know.  I’m going to get hate e-mail for this. — Vern My ROFF page: http://msnhomepages.talkcity.com/ResortRd/v_deloy/ROFFintro.html Before you buy.

Response:

The site is aimed more at the salmon fisherman but as a kid I used to catch the most beautiful brownies here. Regarding the price, I have been looking at other sites and I thought my rates were very reasonable, considering there is no one else going to be fishing the beat and the lodge is fully equipped for self catering…if not, please let me know because my intention in letting the fishery and lodge is to get some good records, not to rip of tourist fishermen. It is fished only infrequently by family and friends who have generally been successful, but I want a more accurate seasonal view of the fishing. James

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Depends where you’re going. Generally fishing for brown trout in Ireland is *free*. Unless, of course, you choose to fish the well known, regulated waters like for instance the Blackwater. If you like to (or have to, like me) fish on a budget, fish the tributaries, the lochs and all those other lovely streams which are either free or cheap to fish. Last time I was there I bought a year ticket for the Dee in Limerick for about 6 Irish pounds. Herman <snip looks ok, things are getting pricey in Ireland these days from what I gathered. Flyfish Just finished our new site and I would like a bit of feedback on what other information you would like to see on it before I publish the final site. Cheers James — Cheers, Herman Herman Nijland Daytime webmaster Lifetime flyfisher

Response:

Just finished our new site and I would like a bit of feedback on what other information you would like to see on it before I publish the final site. Cheers James

Response:

Just finished our new site and I would like a bit of feedback James     What’s the URL?

Response:

Question:

I can relate to both sides of this arguement for many reasons. As a long time worm fisherman I used to keep all the trout that got hooked so badly they would die anyway. I never considered the fact that using bait caused many more fish to be gut hooked because I was not a passive fisherman. Constant vigilence and setting the hook instantly on any change of line drift or tension resulted in 99% of my fish being hooked in the mouth and easily released. If I brought home 3 fish a week it was lucky and my family loved fresh trout grilled over an open fire.     Then I discovered flyfishing. I started fishing dry flies and watched the number of trout I caught rise at an incredible rate. catching 3 or 4 fish a day was not uncommon. (love those adirondack small streams) and I didnt seem to hurt any more than I did when fishing terratus(from the scientific term for earthworm). this time frame also includes the time when the state made a flyfish only, no kill section of the west branch of the Ausable river in northern ny.     More time has passed and now I can drop a size 20 dry on a7x tippet without a splash and the catch count can get over 30 fish a day, still very low on the casualty rate. Life and reality deal me some shitty blows, unemployment, single parenting, all combine to make fishing a necessity. (hope you never have to explain to your kids why there are no "snacks"  in the house) and yet I find myself unable to change my ways and still only keep the gut hooked fish. Maybe i’m a little slower on the trigger on purpose but rules you make for yourself are harder to break. So we are eating trout 3 days a week (and lots of macaroni and cheese) My eight year old son takes up fly fishing and endorses catch and release whole heartedly, lets every fish go back. But still prefers the ones dad catches over Mrs. Pauls. the center brook is an easy walk from home and loaded with little rainbows from a local dec hatchery so you dont even have to feel guilty if you keep a couple. But the big native brown trout are always set free. The catch and release section of the Ausable gives us tons of pleasure. it’s turning out some very large fish and the state decides to help by stepping up the stocking program.     Time goes on. My son now a gangly ten year old with legs like a three weight rod has become a better fly fisherman than I ever dreamed of being. compared to his presentation, I seem to beat the water to a froth. Times are a little better the wolves are no longer knocking on the door. We’ve graduated to bamboo and don’t get to fish as often as we like but still we’re eating fis two or three times a week. fishing the trophy section of the ausable a couple times a month but the trophy trout are gone. the no kill has become a no skill area loaded with stocked trout who haven’t been in the water long enought to get wet.     so whats the bottom line (#3 weight forward sinking haha). Im not exactly sure. the fly fishing only area managed the way all the books say is right has gone to hell. the other sections of the Ausable where things were left alone and people can remove some of the dumber fish still produces large fish. The flume pool just below the catch and release produces a few 6 pounders every year. The little brook near home still produces large browns. I released a for pounder in july from a pool not over eight feet wide and 18 inches deep. There are enough little stockers to keep the kids happy without being overdone. The fish seem healthy and plentiful. So the best policy seems to be let nature take it’s course. maybe a little nudge to help repair damage we did in the past, but don’t try to force anything on anyone. Only make small changes and if it doesn’t work change it back. If it ain’t broke don’t fix it.     As far as animal rights, I  feel that has to be made on a personal basis. if you don’t want to eat animals than don’t,  but I don’t eat vegetables. So, since I would rather not starve I guess I will keep the grill for now, not worry about the carrots and onoins being so alive that they would grow if put back in their natural environment. Since the hook probably hurts the fish less than the hole I allowed some teen aged nitwit at the mall to put in my sons ear, (let’s not go there please) I won’t loose any sleep over the trauma I put them thru

Response:

 Life and reality deal me some shitty blows, unemployment, single parenting, all combine to make fishing a necessity. (hope you never have to explain to your kids why there are no "snacks"  in the house)

I don’t know if you live on the banks of the Ausable or some other attractive water – but in a similar situation I could never justify fishing even if I brought a fish or two home – the cost of gas for the car alone would buy more food for the table then I could ever catch and kill. Ralph H remove "(take_this_out)" for email reply.

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Life and reality deal me some shitty blows, unemployment, single parenting, all combine to make fishing a necessity. (hope you never have to explain to your kids why there are no "snacks"  in the house) I don’t know if you live on the banks of the Ausable or some other attractive water – but in a similar situation I could never justify fishing even if I brought a fish or two home – the cost of gas for the car alone would buy more food for the table then I could ever catch and kill. Ralph H remove "(take_this_out)" for email reply.

        good grief, ralph:  the guy clearly states that he lives "within walking distance of the central brook", where he keeps the fish his family needed to survive.  then he continues an innocently profound post that goes right to the heart of your obsession, and you choose to jump in his shit about anal retentive economics, the basis of which is hopelessly flawed, factually and conceptually.         you are sometimes a real handfull, ralph.           a. wayne harrison – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text –

Response:

Thanks for pointing that out to me Wayne. Where would I be without you? Ralph H – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text –         good grief, ralph:  the guy clearly states that he lives "within walking distance of the central brook", where he keeps the fish his family needed to survive.  then he continues an innocently profound post that goes right to the heart of your obsession, and you choose to jump in his shit about anal retentive economics, the basis of which is hopelessly flawed, factually and conceptually.         you are sometimes a real handfull, ralph.         a. wayne harrison

Response:

Thanks for pointing that out to me Wayne. Where would I be without you?         well, ralph, that is a truly profound question, one that i doubt i can honestly answer.

or answer honestly for that matter! Ralph H – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text –         good grief, ralph:  the guy clearly states that he lives "within walking distance of the central brook", where he keeps the fish his family needed to survive.  then he continues an innocently profound post that goes right to the heart of your obsession, and you choose to jump in his shit about anal retentive economics, the basis of which is hopelessly flawed, factually and conceptually.         you are sometimes a real handfull, ralph.         a. wayne harrison

Response:

Thanks for pointing that out to me Wayne. Where would I be without you?

        well, ralph, that is a truly profound question, one that i doubt i can honestly answer.  given your relentless propensity for egocentric analysis, my best bet would be that you would be utterly the same without me as you are with me, and the rest of humanity, for that matter.         a. wayne harrison – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -Ralph H         good grief, ralph:  the guy clearly states that he lives "within walking distance of the central brook", where he keeps the fish his family needed to survive.  then he continues an innocently profound post that goes right to the heart of your obsession, and you choose to jump in his shit about anal retentive economics, the basis of which is hopelessly flawed, factually and conceptually.         you are sometimes a real handfull, ralph.         a. wayne harrison

Response:

Question:

I’ll be in Livingston, MT in early Aug. I’d like to know if there are places to fly fish near town? I’ll probably be in the Comfort Inn. I’m not looking for trophies, just easy access and some fun. I’d like to be able to give the family the car so I can fish. Is there fishing in walking distance to that part of town? I’ve never been there, so I need advice.

Response:

I’ll be in Livingston, MT in early Aug. I’d like to know if there are places to fly fish near town? I’ll probably be in the Comfort Inn. I’m not looking for trophies, just easy access and some fun. I’d like to be able to give the family the car so I can fish. Is there fishing in walking distance to that part of town? I’ve never been there, so I need advice.

Hi Gerys The Yellowstone River flows right through town and good fishing often can be right at your back door. If close access is your goal then try fishing around the channels near the 9th St bridge, up or down stream from Mayer’s Landing, or Carter’s Bridge (about 2 miles south of town). Good luck & … — Tight Lines ….. Al Beatty BT’s Fly Fishing Products Catalog,Tips & Tricks, Fishing Reports, & NeverSink at: http://www.btsflyfishing.com

Response:

Question:

: Why dont you look into a used inflatable. They are incredibly light, Can : move real well with minimum H.P., and can be trailered with ease. Most : 13-16 ft inflatables weigh less that 900lbs with engine. They can also : carry more weight in most circumstances than aluminum or fiberglass boats : of the same size. That would have been a good thought, too, but I ended up buying a new 16′ Carolina Skiff, with the semi-v hull. So far, I couldn’t be more delighted. With the boat, that is. My car, as a tow vehicle — another story. Yeah, the Saturn can pull it. On flat stretches, or down-grades, I can even shift into 5th at highway speeds. But I discovered the hard way about certain ramps. Too steep, too slippery, sand at the base….<sigh It sure as hell takes the fun out of things, when you’re worried like hell about getting it back out of the water, at the end of the day….

Response:

Why dont you look into a used inflatable. They are incredibly light, Can move real well with minimum H.P., and can be trailered with ease. Most 13-16 ft inflatables weigh less that 900lbs with engine. They can also carry more weight in most circumstances than aluminum or fiberglass boats of the same size. DB

Response:

Most fiberglass boats are heavy, and that’s the bottom line at to how much push you get from the kicker.  I’ve got a 15′ glass boat that weights about 400 lbs, the builder stamps it as rated for 25hp, but he personally says its ideal for 15 hp, and the coast guard rates it for 40 hp.  I put a 1997 25hp Mercury on it, and it jumps.  Clearly, I could pull a skier. Also, flat bottom boats (like mine) skip like a stone, once you’re on plane, they fly.  But they’re torture in any kind of chop. Carolina skiffs and whalers are heavy.  If you want to conserve, get an aluminum boat.  If you want to know about my boat builder, email me. (small shop in Central Florida.) – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – It sounds like you want a setup like I got. The boats a 16 foot 1968 Duracraft Aluminum boat. The boat is heavy duty (not a sears special!!!), waying in at about 250 pounds. Its welded at the seems and then has rivited ribs. It was powered by a 1965 Wizard(aka West bend aka Chrysler) 20 HP. This was plenty of power for fishing, though I am in the process of getting a new one (probabl;y a 25hp honda, yamaha, or Mercury). this will probably pull a skier ,maybe, maybe not, never tried. The boat is very stable, is plenty fast for fishing, even with three people, and is strong despite its age. As for trailering, what you got will pull it, (heck even a geo metro would pull it). Figure 250 pounds for the boat, 110 pounds about for the motor, 15 0for the trailer, 100 pounds for gear, 65 pounds for Golden Retriever, and your still under 1000 pounds. Ive pulled this setup with a ‘86 nissan Sentra, so what you got will definantly pull it.                                    Good Luck,                                            Nathan Spitzer Hi folks — I’m suffering from boat fever again, and I’d appreciate any input y’all would be willing to provide, on some pretty basic questions. A couple years ago bought a canoe — almost exclusively for freshwater fishing. Canoe’s aren’t terrific fishing platforms, and finally I sold it and bought a 12′ aluminum Jon boat, which I car-topped. All I could afford, along with an old Sears 5hp engine, which still gives me nightmares. This boat was better, but issues related to car-topping started to become problematic: Haul nasty, leaking engine down 3 flights of stairs, and put in the back seat. Go back for rods, tackle, paddle, anchor, cooler, trolling motor and *heavy* battery, a zillion other things, and load *that* somewhere in my car. Drive somewhere else where my boat was. Tie that on the roof. Scratch roof, getting careless trying to load the boat by myself. Drive to the lake. Do all of the above, in reverse. And that’s just getting in the water. Y’all probably get the idea — I should have bought a trailer, but I couldn’t afford one, at the time. So I finally sold that, too, a month ago. Enough rambling. I’m at a point where I’ve got a little more money, and would like a truly decent boat for fishing/recreation. First: Towing. This is a big issue, and I know nothing about it. I’ve got a 4dr, FWD Saturn with 100k+ miles. I recall the owner’s manual saying something about 1k lbs max, but….? Is that realistic? Were I to buy a used 4-cyl truck, something like an S-10, or Nissan, or Toyota, would this dramatically increase my towing capacity? Are there any web-sites devoted to this — I sure haven’t found much, searching. Second: I’ve seen some ads for "hulls only" for things like 13′ Whalers, and Carolina Skiffs and such. Exactly what would be involved dressing ‘em up for a fishing boat, with enough power to tow the infrequent skier? I’m not entirely inept with common tools, but I’m not sure if this is really a job for the the casual handyman, or if it would cost more than a used boat in the same configuration — ie, center console, a couple seats. Also, would a motor sufficient to pull a skier (nothing fancy, just adequate) + boat + trailer start to get well over anything I could possibly tow with my car or a light-truck? *Roughly*, and I know this is an extremely technical issue in and of itself, but how many HP are we talking about for the above, anyway? 40? 50? 60, minimum? The thing is, I’ve seen old MFG’s and stuff, with ancient, but large OB’s, in the price range I’m looking at. They look heavy as *hell*, and also I have no idea if they’d even run a single season. I’ve seen newish Skiffs with smaller engines (ie, 25hp), that do look light enough to pull with my current car, but I can’t imagine they could get a skier out of the water, and I might be considerably deceived by appearance — they could be quite heavy, too, in reality. Is there any magic combination out there? I could put a hitch on my Saturn and get another, larger Jon boat, but I don’t really want to settle for a compromise, again. I’d rather work for another year or two, and be able to afford something else. Anyway, I’ve babbled enough — any thoughts (to the group’s fine) would sure be appreciated. Steve

Response:

Hi folks — I’m suffering from boat fever again, and I’d appreciate any input y’all would be willing to provide, on some pretty basic questions. A couple years ago bought a canoe — almost exclusively for freshwater fishing. Canoe’s aren’t terrific fishing platforms, and finally I sold it and bought a 12′ aluminum Jon boat, which I car-topped. All I could afford, along with an old Sears 5hp engine, which still gives me nightmares. This boat was better, but issues related to car-topping started to become problematic: Haul nasty, leaking engine down 3 flights of stairs, and put in the back seat. Go back for rods, tackle, paddle, anchor, cooler, trolling motor and *heavy* battery, a zillion other things, and load *that* somewhere in my car. Drive somewhere else where my boat was. Tie that on the roof. Scratch roof, getting careless trying to load the boat by myself. Drive to the lake. Do all of the above, in reverse. And that’s just getting in the water. Y’all probably get the idea — I should have bought a trailer, but I couldn’t afford one, at the time. So I finally sold that, too, a month ago. Enough rambling. I’m at a point where I’ve got a little more money, and would like a truly decent boat for fishing/recreation. First: Towing. This is a big issue, and I know nothing about it. I’ve got a 4dr, FWD Saturn with 100k+ miles. I recall the owner’s manual saying something about 1k lbs max, but….? Is that realistic? Were I to buy a used 4-cyl truck, something like an S-10, or Nissan, or Toyota, would this dramatically increase my towing capacity? Are there any web-sites devoted to this — I sure haven’t found much, searching. Second: I’ve seen some ads for "hulls only" for things like 13′ Whalers, and Carolina Skiffs and such. Exactly what would be involved dressing ‘em up for a fishing boat, with enough power to tow the infrequent skier? I’m not entirely inept with common tools, but I’m not sure if this is really a job for the the casual handyman, or if it would cost more than a used boat in the same configuration — ie, center console, a couple seats. Also, would a motor sufficient to pull a skier (nothing fancy, just adequate) + boat + trailer start to get well over anything I could possibly tow with my car or a light-truck? *Roughly*, and I know this is an extremely technical issue in and of itself, but how many HP are we talking about for the above, anyway? 40? 50? 60, minimum? The thing is, I’ve seen old MFG’s and stuff, with ancient, but large OB’s, in the price range I’m looking at. They look heavy as *hell*, and also I have no idea if they’d even run a single season. I’ve seen newish Skiffs with smaller engines (ie, 25hp), that do look light enough to pull with my current car, but I can’t imagine they could get a skier out of the water, and I might be considerably deceived by appearance — they could be quite heavy, too, in reality. Is there any magic combination out there? I could put a hitch on my Saturn and get another, larger Jon boat, but I don’t really want to settle for a compromise, again. I’d rather work for another year or two, and be able to afford something else. Anyway, I’ve babbled enough — any thoughts (to the group’s fine) would sure be appreciated. Steve

Response:

It sounds like you want a setup like I got. The boats a 16 foot 1968 Duracraft Aluminum boat. The boat is heavy duty (not a sears special!!!), waying in at about 250 pounds. Its welded at the seems and then has rivited ribs. It was powered by a 1965 Wizard(aka West bend aka Chrysler) 20 HP. This was plenty of power for fishing, though I am in the process of getting a new one (probabl;y a 25hp honda, yamaha, or Mercury). this will probably pull a skier ,maybe, maybe not, never tried. The boat is very stable, is plenty fast for fishing, even with three people, and is strong despite its age. As for trailering, what you got will pull it, (heck even a geo metro would pull it). Figure 250 pounds for the boat, 110 pounds about for the motor, 15 0for the trailer, 100 pounds for gear, 65 pounds for Golden Retriever, and your still under 1000 pounds. Ive pulled this setup with a ‘86 nissan Sentra, so what you got will definantly pull it.                                         Good Luck,                                                 Nathan Spitzer – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -Hi folks — I’m suffering from boat fever again, and I’d appreciate any input y’all would be willing to provide, on some pretty basic questions. A couple years ago bought a canoe — almost exclusively for freshwater fishing. Canoe’s aren’t terrific fishing platforms, and finally I sold it and bought a 12′ aluminum Jon boat, which I car-topped. All I could afford, along with an old Sears 5hp engine, which still gives me nightmares. This boat was better, but issues related to car-topping started to become problematic: Haul nasty, leaking engine down 3 flights of stairs, and put in the back seat. Go back for rods, tackle, paddle, anchor, cooler, trolling motor and *heavy* battery, a zillion other things, and load *that* somewhere in my car. Drive somewhere else where my boat was. Tie that on the roof. Scratch roof, getting careless trying to load the boat by myself. Drive to the lake. Do all of the above, in reverse. And that’s just getting in the water. Y’all probably get the idea — I should have bought a trailer, but I couldn’t afford one, at the time. So I finally sold that, too, a month ago. Enough rambling. I’m at a point where I’ve got a little more money, and would like a truly decent boat for fishing/recreation. First: Towing. This is a big issue, and I know nothing about it. I’ve got a 4dr, FWD Saturn with 100k+ miles. I recall the owner’s manual saying something about 1k lbs max, but….? Is that realistic? Were I to buy a used 4-cyl truck, something like an S-10, or Nissan, or Toyota, would this dramatically increase my towing capacity? Are there any web-sites devoted to this — I sure haven’t found much, searching. Second: I’ve seen some ads for "hulls only" for things like 13′ Whalers, and Carolina Skiffs and such. Exactly what would be involved dressing ‘em up for a fishing boat, with enough power to tow the infrequent skier? I’m not entirely inept with common tools, but I’m not sure if this is really a job for the the casual handyman, or if it would cost more than a used boat in the same configuration — ie, center console, a couple seats. Also, would a motor sufficient to pull a skier (nothing fancy, just adequate) + boat + trailer start to get well over anything I could possibly tow with my car or a light-truck? *Roughly*, and I know this is an extremely technical issue in and of itself, but how many HP are we talking about for the above, anyway? 40? 50? 60, minimum? The thing is, I’ve seen old MFG’s and stuff, with ancient, but large OB’s, in the price range I’m looking at. They look heavy as *hell*, and also I have no idea if they’d even run a single season. I’ve seen newish Skiffs with smaller engines (ie, 25hp), that do look light enough to pull with my current car, but I can’t imagine they could get a skier out of the water, and I might be considerably deceived by appearance — they could be quite heavy, too, in reality. Is there any magic combination out there? I could put a hitch on my Saturn and get another, larger Jon boat, but I don’t really want to settle for a compromise, again. I’d rather work for another year or two, and be able to afford something else. Anyway, I’ve babbled enough — any thoughts (to the group’s fine) would sure be appreciated. Steve

Response:

Question:

Want the finest flyfishing experience of your life?  Little Grizzly Creek Ranch, Walden, Colorado, features outstanding new accommodations, gourmet food, fine wine, hosted bar, 7 miles of private streams at the headwaters of the North Platte, five varieties of trout, guides and instruction, all for one price.  Check out our home page at: brochure.  Reservations are being accepted for July, August and September or 1997.

Response:

Want the finest flyfishing experience of your life?  Little Grizzly Creek Ranch, Walden, Colorado, features outstanding new accommodations, gourmet food, fine wine, hosted bar, 7 miles of private streams at the headwaters of the North Platte, five varieties of trout, guides and instruction, all for one price.  Check out our home page at: brochure.  Reservations are being accepted for July, August and September or 1997.

and when you’re done over there, come on over and we’ll murder some stockers and rip the tops off some homebrews. TimW Never a fee to my ‘clients’

Response:

Question:

Howdy, I had to make a trip from N. Idaho to Kalispell, MT over the weekend for my daughter’s soccer tourn. and was quite interested in the look of the St. Regis River. I haven’t seen much mentioned about it here so I thought I would ask. What’s the scoop?? Looks VERY FINE to say the least. I sometimes come over to St. Regis to take the Gold Creek road over to the St. Joe. If the fishing is worth while, I would venture a few hours enroute. Anyone in the know?? Smilin’ in North Idaho, Jerry

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Howdy, I had to make a trip from N. Idaho to Kalispell, MT over the weekend for my daughter’s soccer tourn. and was quite interested in the look of the St. Regis River. I haven’t seen much mentioned about it here so I thought I would ask. What’s the scoop?? Looks VERY FINE to say the least. I sometimes come over to St. Regis to take the Gold Creek road over to the St. Joe. If the fishing is worth while, I would venture a few hours enroute. Anyone in the know?? Smilin’ in North Idaho, Jerry

Hi Jerry I saw the river the other day and it was dropping.  I would suspect it will be fishable soon.  It’s a great brown trout fishery but also a very early in am and late pm as well. Tight Lines Al Beatty BT’s Fly Fishing Products Bozeman, MT (96 catalog)

Response:

Question:

:      I have been looking for some time for a book describing fly tieing :   materials. More specifically, a book that addresses questions like: :   Which fur on an elk is best suited for tieing dry flies like the caddis? :   Is fur from other parts of the animal better for other patterns. :      Alex I’ve never seen THE book you’re looking for.  But, Herters put out a book in the 1930’s that had a diagram of a duck and what feathers were used for what fly parts.  That’s as close as I can get you.  Anyone else want to take a shot? Charley

Response:

     I have been looking for some time for a book describing fly tieing   materials. More specifically, a book that addresses questions like:   Which fur on an elk is best suited for tieing dry flies like the caddis?   Is fur from other parts of the animal better for other patterns.   Other useful information might be answers to questions concerning where   or how these materials are usually obtained; for example:   When I buy a calf tail, did that tail, most likely, come from a veal   ranch? If not where? Is there some type of cattle ranching that involves   the systematic "docking" of calf tails?   Or, try this one, I raise ornamental pheasants. I have had many   fly tiers request golden pheasants that were 3 to 6 years old. When I   ask why, the usual answer is, "cause they’re brighter". This couldn’t   be more wrong. Here’s why.   Say a golden pheasant is hatched in May of year N. That bird will initially   feather out in a pattern of browns and blacks, similar to the adult hen.   We are now in about September of year N. The bird does not molt in year N.   Over the remainder of year N, the bird gradually starts changing color to   match the adult male. By May of year N + 1, the bird has blotches of color   covering much of its body, but still has many of the juvenile feathers.   Towards the end of summer, early fall, of year N + 1, the bird molts and   emerges from the molt in October or November, in dazzling color. The bird   is now about 1 and 1/2 years old. Trust me, this is the brightest this   bird will EVER be and will never exit a molt this bright again. So, if   there is an advantage to an older bird it certainly isn’t brighter colors.   If there is an advantage, what is it.   As far as birds go, this has been my observation for most species. That   is, the first molt into total adult hood is the best for color. By the   way, the age at which this happens varies from one species to the next.   For example, a Himalayan Monol (Impeyan), reaches adulthood at 2 and 1/2   years. The only exception I know to this, is the peacock. I don’t seem to   see much loss in color due to age and the feathers seem to get bigger and   nicer for the first 4 to 5 years at least.   Anyway if such a book exists, I would be interested in hearing about it.   Thanks for your time,      Alex —             Alex Dorchak     Voice : (206) 356-6443     USMAIL: John Fluke Mfg. Co. / P.O. Box 9090 / Everett WA  98206-9090

Response:

:      I have been looking for some time for a book describing fly tieing :   materials. More specifically, a book that addresses questions like:

Eric Leiser, Fly Tying Materials (Crown, 1973) and several more. —  |          Donald Phillipson, 4180 Boundary Rd., Carlsbad         |  |        Springs, Ont., Canada K0A 1K0; tel: (613) 822-0734       |  |  "What I’ve always liked about science is its independence from |  |  authority"–Ontario Science Centre (name on file) 10 July 1981 |

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – :      I have been looking for some time for a book describing fly tieing :   materials. More specifically, a book that addresses questions like: :   Which fur on an elk is best suited for tieing dry flies like the caddis? :   Is fur from other parts of the animal better for other patterns. :      Alex I’ve never seen THE book you’re looking for.  But, Herters put out a book in the 1930’s that had a diagram of a duck and what feathers were used for what fly parts.  That’s as close as I can get you.  Anyone else want to take a shot? Charley

Eric Leisure put out a book called "Fly Tying Materials" that covered a heck of a lot about lots of different materials used for tying flies. Seems to me to be the definitive work on the subject. You might see if you can locate/borrow a copy to see if he covers the particular nuances you’re interested in (I read it *many* years ago but can’t remember such details)… /dave <<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<< < Digital Equipment Corp.    Alpha Server Engineering  < <         "Read this and nobody gets hurt ;^)"         < <<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<

Response:

    I have been looking for some time for a book describing fly tieing  materials. More specifically, a book that addresses questions like:  Which fur on an elk is best suited for tieing dry flies like the caddis?  Is fur from other parts of the animal better for other patterns.

I can’t remember the reference but I recall reading an article out of one of the flyfishing magazines that cover different kinds of hair (I don’t think an elk really has "fur").  Amoung other things it described a number of differents kinds of hair (deer, elk, moose, bear, etc) and the boyuancy qualities and even went into the best time of year to take hair from an animal (when it needs a haircut?) and a number of other interesting bits of information.  I’ll see if I can dig the article out somewhere. — John Fereira Isis Distributed Systems  Ithaca, NY

Response:

    I have been looking for some time for a book describing fly tieing  materials. More specifically, a book that addresses questions like:  Which fur on an elk is best suited for tieing dry flies like the caddis?  Is fur from other parts of the animal better for other patterns.

There is a comprehensive book on the subject by Eric Leiser: Fly Tying Materials. There are others but this is the only one I can remember right off the top. Todd L. McCagg – Mfr Rep of Musical Esoteria Modulus-Spector-SWR-Hughes & Kettner-Premier Fernandes-EMG-CB Labs Pocket Rock-It (husband-father-bassist-flyfisher-flytyer-homebrewer)

Response:

rare & unusual materials: a natural history written by paul schmookler & ingrid v. sils order from the complete sportsman p.o. box 104, millis MA 02054

Response:

Question:

I haven’t received any mail today. Is the listserver down or is it my local mail handler…

Response:

(Richard Hall) writes: I haven’t received any mail today. Is the listserver down or is it my

local mail handler… I didn’t even know there was a fly fishing mailing list.  How do I subscribe?

Response:

Question:

Hi All,    I have seen a lot of messages regarding the "New" lines, with all the technical barrage of comments about how and what it is made of.  Not to flame anyone of these guys, but it sounded like none of them have used them. A lot of

OK, you asked for it I’ve been using Web Wizard (loosely braided Dyneema line) in both 0.08 and 0.10 mm diameter (8x and 7x), as fly tippets. And no, I don’t like it; I went back to Tectan premium monofil nylon. Reasons: – Web Wizard, as, as I understand, all Dyneema lines, is white. Very white. Of course I could take a felt pen and dye it, but still… – It is loosely braided, frays easily and is, as far as my limited experience goes, easily damaged by abrasion (as in: snagged lines from casting into a tree instead of towards the water ) – I don’t ‘believe’ the stated diameter, especially since the braid is flat; if you take a micrometer (or high precision caliper (?)), you’ll probably measure what is advertised as the diameter, IF you measure the narrow dimension, but even that is because you’re measuring UNDER ‘PRESSURE’. My 0.12 mm Tectan looks a lot thinner that the 0.10 mm Web Wizard. – It is limp. Now for fishing small nymphs this might be OK, but tying these small nymphs to the tippet is another story entirely (and yes, I know about threaders). Too much frustration at the waterside. As I said, I’m back at Tectan. | Research Institute of Toxicology    |                                      | | Environmental Toxicology Section    |  phone:   +31 30 535338              | | Utrecht University, the Netherlands |  fax:     +31 30 535077              |

Response:

Hi All,         I have seen a lot of messages regarding the "New" lines, with all the technical barrage of comments about how and what it is made of.  Not to flame anyone of these guys, but it sounded like none of them have used them. A lot of posts sayin they did or did not like them.  We’ll some comments from someone who has used them and some viable comments.  I have been using the Fenwick Iron thread and the Spiderwire. 1)The 20 lb Spiderwire is flat.  When the wind blows, it blows your line like a  sail. (when I cast it I put my rod tip in the water immediately in order to "sink" the line) 2)The eye on the rod just after the reel (used for holding lure) continuosly gets wrapped by the line, while casting. (I have cut these off on some rods) 3)You must look at your line before casting (with wind blowing it is constantly wrapping line around the last eye or two. 4)If you hang on a limb or branch, you might as well go and get it.  Most of the time the line will not flip off of it and will wrap even worse. 5)The action on top water lures is a little different.  I try to sink my line before twitching the lure. 6)The 35lb spiderwire seems to be more round and is better on the above lines, but I have come across a snag, literally.  I was constantly getting backlashes and thought it was casting into the wind.  I changed directions and still had a problem. I pulled out all my line to find a very small fray (imperfection in the line) causing it grab the next line in the spool and backlashing. 7)I have been using the recommended Polymar knot.  Still I have snapped off several lures during casting. (I have found that if tying a Polymar while the line is dry will give you a tighter knot), also after cutting the line after tying the knot as cigarette or match will clean up the fray. The fenwick iron thread 30lb.  has proven to be a much better line.  A little larger in line diameter makes tying knots easier (don’t seem to slip as much) Doesn’t seem to fly loose in the wind like the spider wire. One additional comment on both lines: They are very sensitive and have not any frayed lines or nicks from horsing fish in around and among fish. Have not tried other braided lines, I just wanted to try the best!

Response: