Question:

  Hi! Our Adventure reel is well liked by most people and I doubt if we will ever change the color.  It matches well with our rods.  If you want a black reel, we offer the syncrotech reel that is all black.

Gary Loomis is gone.  The company is Japanese owned and operated now. Personally, I favor Lamiglas Fly Rods and have for over 30 years.  Of course Gary learned the business from Steve Posey before going on his own.  A little known fact of fly fishing history of Woodland Washington. George

Response:

A few people with the Loomis Adventure fly reel have stated that they would like to see it in black.  I took the bull by the horns and asked Loomis about it directly.  With their permission, here is my question and their response: I have and Adventure reel and find it is the perfect reel for my 4wt Loomis.  Question is, when are you going to make the reel in black.  I like the matte finish of the rods and would like the reel to match. Frank Reid Hi! Our Adventure reel is well liked by most people and I doubt if we will ever change the color.  It matches well with our rods.  If you want a black reel, we offer the syncrotech reel that is all black. However, this reel is more expensive. Thanks for using G. Loomis products. Tight lines, Fran Hansen G. Loomis, Inc. 1359 Down River Drive Woodland, Washington 98674 1-800-GLoomis (456-6647) 1-360-225-6516 Not a very good answer, but an answer all the same. Cheers        Frank Reid

Response:

Wow.  A customer service reply straight out of Dilbert (…you do TOO prefer it our way!).  With various manufacturers bending over backwards to provide lifetime warranties and otherwise satisfy the customer, I guess that Loomis’ attitude surprises me.  Based upon posts in the ROFF/Google archives, I looked at this reel when assembling my first outfit, but didn’t like the color.  I guess that’s not going to change.  Thanks for the info. Cheers, Bill – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – A few people with the Loomis Adventure fly reel have stated that they would like to see it in black.  I took the bull by the horns and asked Loomis about it directly.  With their permission, here is my question and their response: Hi! Our Adventure reel is well liked by most people and I doubt if we will ever change the color.  It matches well with our rods.  If you want a black reel, we offer the syncrotech reel that is all black.

Response:

Question:

In the case of overseas contributions there would obviously be some exceptions. Paul

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Stan, leaving mailing to the last week is fraught with danger IMO … too too easy to overcommit, or have some circumstance intervene, and some of us have a little distance to send the blighters .  Perhaps a fortnight or 3 weeks?  Even then there will still be drop-outs. Steve

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -1.  How many people should be allowed to participate in the swap. (do *not* consider the swapmeister in your opinion, I don’t care how many) 25___X__ 30_____ 35_____ 40_____ more than 40_____ 2. How many days should be alloted for sign-up? 14__X____ 21______ 30______ 3. After all are signed up, how many days alloted to send the flies in to me? 30__X____ 45______ 60______ See, now that wasn’t hard was it?  I’ll be interested to see how this breaks down. Ye Olde Slopmeister

my two cents worth Peter

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – There has been some debate and opinions offered as to how to run The 3rd Annual Great Fly Swap of 2002, so I will run a little survey here and ask that only flytiers and potential swappers weigh in, hey this ain’t a big deal, just want to run a democratic swap. 1.  How many people should be allowed to participate in the swap. (do *not* consider the swapmeister in your opinion, I don’t care how many) 25_____ 30_____ 35_____ 40_____ more than 40__yes___ 20 2. How many days should be alloted for sign-up? 14___yes___ 21______ 30______ 3. After all are signed up, how many days alloted to send the flies in to me? 30__yes____ 45______ 60______ See, now that wasn’t hard was it?  I’ll be interested to see how this breaks down. Ye Olde Slopmeister

Response:

Frank, First, may I start by saying a big thank you for organising the last swap. As a reader of only 4 months standing of this newsgroup (or any newsgroup for that matter) I have enjoyed immeasurably the opportunity to tie so many flies.  I am not a production machine and cannot tie 100+ flies at one sitting (in fact I feel rather pleased if I do about 6 in an hour).  However it has given a focus for my tying and I have really enjoyed the anticipation of receiving the work of so many fellow tiers.  I for one never want to tie another Iron Blue Dun, but if I do I know a. it will take less time than before, b. I will not have to look up the pattern, and c. I’m likely to end up with a  tidier looking fly than before. My Reply to your survey Frank: Q1.    25. See above comment. Also the fewer the numbers, the lower the drop out rate, as people are more likely to meet this commitment. Q2.    21 Days is more than enough. Even for someone who is regularly away, I can usually get to a computer to download messages, and hence sign up for the swap in this time. Q3.    45 Days. To allow postage time from all over the globe. My penny’s worth. Again thanks for the experience. — Alex Bromham

Response:

Frank, First, may I start by saying a big thank you for organising the last swap.

Thanks for the kind words Alex, you guys need to realize I’m getting more fun out of this than ya’ll are.  Your input on the survey is also appreciated, and I will keep all the replies in mind, then do it how I dang well please. (that’s my dark side coming out) <g At some point in the near future, like after the swap is completed, I will post a "lessons learned" missive for the enlightenment of all concerned. Frank Church

Response:

Hi Frank Decision as to size show be up to swiepmeister. How much work is he willing to do. A short signup time – 7 days is enough. Bigger the swap – the longer is needed. 60 days for 40 flies seems about right! Paul – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – There has been some debate and opinions offered as to how to run The 3rd Annual Great Fly Swap of 2002, so I will run a little survey here and ask that only flytiers and potential swappers weigh in, hey this ain’t a big deal, just want to run a democratic swap. 1.  How many people should be allowed to participate in the swap. (do *not* consider the swapmeister in your opinion, I don’t care how many) 25_____ 30_____ 35_____ 40_____ more than 40_____ 2. How many days should be alloted for sign-up? 14______ 21______ 30______ 3. After all are signed up, how many days alloted to send the flies in to me? 30______ 45______ 60______ See, now that wasn’t hard was it?  I’ll be interested to see how this breaks down. Ye Olde Slopmeister

Response:

Frank: I had to throw my 2 cents in also. Anxiously awaiting in Wyoming Bob | 1. How many people should be allowed to participate in the swap. (do *not* | consider the swapmeister in your opinion, I don’t care how many) | 25____ | 30___X__ | 35_____ | 40_____ | more than 40_____ | | 2. How many days should be alloted for sign-up? | 14__X____ | 21______ | 30______ | | 3. After all are signed up, how many days alloted to send the flies in to | me? | 30_____ | 45__X____ | 60______ |

Response:

Frank Wrote seeking our opinions on future fly swaps. I would go for 25 fliews to tie and 30 days to tie the flies after a week to sign up. Big Dale

Response:

Although I haven’t yet participated in a ROFF swap yet, I would like to, time dependant.  Here are my answers to the survey: I have no preference as to the number of tyers, but a good "completion time" period seems to be a ratio, rather than a fixed number – around 1.5 days per tyer, with minimums.  If there are, say 30 tyers, 45 days would seem to be about right and if say, 40 tyers, 60 days.  It would seem if international tyers are in the swap, 45 days would also seem about the minimum to allow for arrival, if all the tyers are in one country, 30 days would seem a minimum, even if just 12-18 tyers.  As to the number of sign-up days, I’m not sure why there needs to be a set period other than as proposed by the swapmeister, and so, therefore, I proxy my vote to the swapmeister.

Response:

Based on the replies I have seen so far, and trying to average out the results, it would seem that lowering the number of tyers is in order, and the time for signup dependant upon the number of participants sought.  Even at 40 tyers this year, I had to turn away several more.  Today, whilst awaiting the remaining 2 yet to arrive (and you know who you are!)   Yes, footdraggers extraordinaire.  I began addressing, labeling and otherwise trying to put things in order before the grand event, ie: sorting all these flies and trying not to get stuck. Another trip to the PO tomorrow as I still am short about 10 mailing boxes.  Because of the weather on the east coast, I was to be on the road today to Evington, VA. but am delayed leaving until Tuesday.  Which means I will be back home by late Wed. 7 March. Consequently, all parcels will be mailed not later than Thursday 8 March. Here is what I am leaning towards in subsequent swaps: Maximum 30 tyers 14 day signup, or 30 tyers, whichever comes first 45 days to deadline, as calculated from the end of signup For those that don’t make the cut in January, someone else can host a swap later in the year…be my guest! :-0 Frank Church

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – There has been some debate and opinions offered as to how to run The 3rd Annual Great Fly Swap of 2002, so I will run a little survey here and ask that only flytiers and potential swappers weigh in, hey this ain’t a big deal, just want to run a democratic swap. 1.  How many people should be allowed to participate in the swap. (do *not* consider the swapmeister in your opinion, I don’t care how many) 25_____ 30_____ 35_____ 40__X___ more than 40_____ 2. How many days should be alloted for sign-up? 14______ 21___X___ 30______ 3. After all are signed up, how many days alloted to send the flies in to me? 30______ 45___X___ 60______ See, now that wasn’t hard was it?  I’ll be interested to see how this breaks down. Ye Olde Slopmeister

who’s doing a great job, by the way! Thanks Frank, Herman —         Cheers, Herman         Herman Nijland         Daytime webmaster         Lifetime flyfisher

Response:

Stan, leaving mailing to the last week is fraught with danger IMO … too too easy to overcommit, or have some circumstance intervene, and some of us have a little distance to send the blighters .  Perhaps a fortnight or 3 weeks?  Even then there will still be drop-outs. Steve

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -1.  How many people should be allowed to participate in the swap. (do *not* consider the swapmeister in your opinion, I don’t care how many) 25___X__ 30_____ 35_____ 40_____ more than 40_____ 2. How many days should be alloted for sign-up? 14_X_____ 21______ 30______ 3. After all are signed up, how many days alloted to send the flies in to me? 30____X__ 45______ 60______

I found there was no reward for my diligence in getting my flies in early! Frank, if you could put in a couple for the clave and send the rest back to me, I’d apprecate it.  I know of a few steelhead I want to show my Pinl Ladies to. Peter Collin

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – 1.  How many people should be allowed to participate in the swap. (do *not* consider the swapmeister in your opinion, I don’t care how many) 25__XX___ 30_____ 35_____ 40_____ more than 40_____ 2. How many days should be alloted for sign-up? 14_XX_____ 21______ 30______ 3. After all are signed up, how many days alloted to send the flies in to me? 30______ 45__XX____ 60______ 4. Should nymphomaniac female fly fishers get extra flys in the swap since

they are "just learning"? – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -yes_____ no______ let’s see their offerings first___XX__ only if Stan posts photos______ See, now that wasn’t hard was it?  I’ll be interested to see how this breaks down. Ye Olde Slopmeister

Response:

There has been some debate and opinions offered as to how to run The 3rd Annual Great Fly Swap of 2002, so I will run a little survey here and ask that only flytiers and potential swappers weigh in, hey this ain’t a big deal, just want to run a democratic swap. 1.  How many people should be allowed to participate in the swap. (do *not* consider the swapmeister in your opinion, I don’t care how many) 25_____ 30_____ 35_____ 40_____ more than 40_____ 2. How many days should be alloted for sign-up? 14______ 21______ 30______ 3. After all are signed up, how many days alloted to send the flies in to me? 30______ 45______ 60______ See, now that wasn’t hard was it?  I’ll be interested to see how this breaks down. Ye Olde Slopmeister

Response:

There has been some debate and opinions offered as to how to run The 3rd Annual Great Fly Swap of 2002, so I will run a little survey here and ask that only flytiers and potential swappers weigh in, hey this ain’t a big deal, just want to run a democratic swap. 1.  How many people should be allowed to participate in the swap. (do *not* consider the swapmeister in your opinion, I don’t care how many) 25_____ 30_____ 35_____ 40_____ more than 40_____

20 – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – 2. How many days should be alloted for sign-up? 14___X___ 21______ 30______ 3. After all are signed up, how many days alloted to send the flies in to me? 30__X____ 45______ 60______ See, now that wasn’t hard was it?  I’ll be interested to see how this breaks down. Ye Olde Slopmeister

Response:

1.  How many people should be allowed to participate in the swap. (do *not* consider the swapmeister in your opinion, I don’t care how many)

Aside from concern for the swapmeister, quantity wasn’t a big deal for me. Because I’m still honing what few skills I have, being forced to tie a LOT of flies was actually a good thing for me this time.   Just for sheer time & quantites of material, however, more than 40 would be quite a burden for some, I’d expect.   30 seems like a nice number. 2. How many days should be alloted for sign-up?

14.   Anybody who can’t make up their mind in two weeks is going to have a tough time getting their flies tied on time <g. 3. After all are signed up, how many days alloted to send the flies in to me?

That would depend on question #1 wouldn’t it?   60 days was comfortable for me to tie 40 flies; but I was done early so I’ll say 45 days. Joe F.

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – There has been some debate and opinions offered as to how to run The 3rd Annual Great Fly Swap of 2002, so I will run a little survey here and ask that only flytiers and potential swappers weigh in, hey this ain’t a big deal, just want to run a democratic swap. 1.  How many people should be allowed to participate in the swap. (do *not* consider the swapmeister in your opinion, I don’t care how many) 25_____ 30___X__ 35_____ 40_____ more than 40_____ 2. How many days should be alloted for sign-up? 14______ 21___X___ 30______ 3. After all are signed up, how many days alloted to send the flies in to me? 30______ 45____X__ 60______ See, now that wasn’t hard was it?  I’ll be interested to see how this breaks down. Ye Olde Slopmeister

Response:

1.  How many people…..

The more the merrier 2.  How many days…..

Swapmeisters discretion 3.  How many days…..

Ditto. Wolfgang

Response:

1.  How many people should be allowed to participate in the swap. (do *not* consider the swapmeister in your opinion, I don’t care how many)

30 works for me. 2. How many days should be alloted for sign-up?

14.  Hell, it took less time than that to get 40 tiers this time, didn’t it? 3. After all are signed up, how many days alloted to send the flies in to me?

45 Keith

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – There has been some debate and opinions offered as to how to run The 3rd Annual Great Fly Swap of 2002, so I will run a little survey here and ask that only flytiers and potential swappers weigh in, hey this ain’t a big deal, just want to run a democratic swap. 1.  How many people should be allowed to participate in the swap. (do *not* consider the swapmeister in your opinion, I don’t care how many) 25_____ 30__X___ 35_____ 40_____ more than 40_____ 2. How many days should be alloted for sign-up? 14___X___ 21______ 30______ 3. After all are signed up, how many days alloted to send the flies in to me? 30__X____ 45______ 60______ See, now that wasn’t hard was it?  I’ll be interested to see how this breaks down. Ye Olde Slopmeister

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – 1.  How many people should be allowed to participate in the swap. (do *not* consider the swapmeister in your opinion, I don’t care how many) 25_____ 30_____ 35_____ 40_____ more than 40___X__ 2. How many days should be alloted for sign-up? 14___X___ 21______ 30______ 3. After all are signed up, how many days alloted to send the flies in to me? 30__X___ 45______ 60______

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – 1.  How many people should be allowed to participate in the swap. (do *not* consider the swapmeister in your opinion, I don’t care how many) 25____Y 30_____ 35_____ 40_____ more than 40_____   2. How many days should be alloted for sign-up? 14_____Y 21______ 30______ 3. After all are signed up, how many days alloted to send the flies in to me? 30______ 45_____Y 60______

Steve

Response:

1.  How many people should be allowed to participate in the swap. 25__X__ 2. How many days should be alloted for sign-up? 14__X___ 3. After all are signed up, how many days alloted to send the flies in to me? 30__X___ I think the major problem we have is too long a lag from signup to delivery and thus the 5-6 dropouts we’ve seen in the last two swaps.  I would suggest a 30 day window for tying and mailing but suggest that nobody mail them in until the last week.  At that time we should ask again who’s in and out and we can adjust the final count before mailing in so many extras.  I don’t mind tying extras, when I’m in production mode, I tie a dozen or so extras for my fly box anyways.  I like the idea of making a set or two for handing out as a clave donation, but 5-6 is pushing it. –Stan

Response:

Question:

Thanks, Ken. I’m certainly not afraid of my fly shop, but the prices of the "starter" rods can be a little intimidating. I don’t figure to be a high volume fisherman … there aren’t enough hours in the year to accommodate all my hobbies.  But I would like to own and use a lightweight graphite rod for use in the waters I do fish.  And a $40 dollar rod that is decent make more sense to me _at this point in time_ than does a $200 higher-end beginners rod.  Later on as finances and needs change, I could conceivably improve my equipment.  However, I have heard it mentioned that one shouldn’t use the Cabela’s reels that come with the Three Forks rods.  That’s why I asked about other reel choices.  I’ll research the Okuma Sierra reels a little more now.  Thanks again! – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Ken, What kind of reel would you put on the "Cabela’s Three Forks model 908"? Inquiring newbies want to know … Hi Michael, A lot of folks like the Okuma Sierra, I’ve never fished with one but I’ve seen a few and they appear to be solid and a solid value. This is not my usual advice to newbies BTW, the original query came from Chuck who lives near a fly shop but is afraid of them. I usually recommend that newbies spend some time at the local flyshop, cast as many rods as posssible and buy the best equipment they can afford. This advice is no good, obviously, if you don’t trust the flyshop or if there is no flyshop in your area. Good luck. — Ken Fortenberry

– Grumpy – http://grumpysplace.net "Nobody loves me but my mother…and she could be jivin’ too" – B.B. King —— Visit http://www.eddiekieger.com     Go, Eddie!

Response:

I usually recommend that newbies spend some time at the local flyshop, cast as many rods as possible and buy the best equipment they can afford. This advice is no good, obviously, if you don’t trust the flyshop or if there is no flyshop in your area.

I think your advice is sound and I agree with the "buy the best" sentiment on two conditions: (1) you are pretty sure that fly fishing is going to be a lifelong hobby and not just a one-trip phenomenon, and (2) you cast well enough that the flaws in your form don’t lead you to choose a rod that will be ill-suited to your style when your casting improves. Based on those stipulations, my own advice is this… (1) Make as your first rod purchase an inexpensive matched combo (3 Forks or Scientific Anglers come to mind). Don’t spend more than about $100 for the whole shebang. (2) Visit several flyshops to purchase flies, leaders, and/or casting lessons. (3) Take at least three serious fishing trips with your "beginner combo" to make sure that fly fishing is going to be an enduring hobby. (4) Purchase the best graphite rod/reel you can afford from the flyshop (see step 2) that has best earned your business. (5) Learn how to build a graphite rod from a kit so you can save money (and increase your satisfaction level) on the subsequent rods you purchase, because you WILL purchase subsequent rods! Again, that’s my own advice. –Steve

Response:

(1) Make as your first rod purchase an inexpensive matched combo (3 Forks or Scientific Anglers come to mind). Don’t spend more than about $100 for the whole shebang.

I’ve always been a proponant of inexpensive gear and made the statement in the past that any rod today, with the exception of bamboo, would cast at least as well as any rod made 30 years ago. When I borrowed a rod at the Montana Clave, I learned how wrong I was. Although I’m not a great caster, I’ve cast alot of different rods and was able to fish reasonably well with all of them. It was like this rod was made so casting was difficult. It had all sort of strange vibrations during the casting stroke. Although, with effort, I was able to get line out, I never knew where the line was going. I think the rod would have cast a bit better with a heavier line, but there was something wrong with the rod. I still think there are lots of good, inexpensive rods out there. In fact, most of my rods are made from inexpensive blanks but there definately are some dogs out there too.  This thread has pointed out a number of good options. A kit, as long as it is truly balanced, or an outfit assembled by someone who knows what they’re doing is the best bet. The first time I tried to learn to flyfish, I was a kid and used an outfit that consisted of a rod that was somewhere around an 8 weight and a line that was probably about a 4 weight. Obviously, I was unable to learn and gave it up after a short time. I didn’t know any fly fishermen but eventually through reading, figured out about balancing the line to the rod and learned to cast with the purchase of a different line.   Willi

Response:

Unless you’re you’re doing some fairly extreme flyfishing where a good drag system is necessary, the reel is nearly irrelevant. You can get along just find with any cheap reel that will hold your flyline. If you want to economize, the reel is the place to do it. Buy the best flyline you can find and a decent rod. — visit my web site: http://home.earthlink.net/~royalwulff/

Response:

I haven’t fly-fished for years. I am interested in buying an outfit that would suit me for bass-steelhead-salmon. I am confused by the different line weights and wuld need something that I could use to cast a 4 inch worm on a small hook for bass ( i had a friend who had great success lake fishing for bass along the shore doing this ). I realize that this is a horrible thought to some purists who would only think of casting "flies" but I am a practical fisherman. Some of the  fisherman in this area of northern calif use 12 foot rods for steelhead and salmon. Anyway I am looking for some ideas. I live near a great fly shop that I use for fly-tying materials but I am afraid they would sell me a outfit that would have limited versatility and a high price.

Response:

… I am interested in buying an outfit that would suit me for bass-steelhead-salmon. I am confused by the different line weights … Anyway I am looking for some ideas.

Line weights are actually the easy part of your query, Chuck. You’re gonna want either a 7 or an 8 weight. The other parts are much harder to give guidance on, none of us knows what would suit you, in the first place, and most folks like a faster action for a bass rod and a slower action for a salmon/steelhead rod. Here’s my suggestion, get the Cabela’s Three Forks model 908, that’s a 9′ rod for an 8wt line. It’s only $40 and a lot of the guys around here swear by them in the smaller sizes. Good luck. — Ken Fortenberry

Response:

Ken, What kind of reel would you put on the "Cabela’s Three Forks model 908"? Inquiring newbies want to know …

Hi Michael, A lot of folks like the Okuma Sierra, I’ve never fished with one but I’ve seen a few and they appear to be solid and a solid value. This is not my usual advice to newbies BTW, the original query came from Chuck who lives near a fly shop but is afraid of them. I usually recommend that newbies spend some time at the local flyshop, cast as many rods as posssible and buy the best equipment they can afford. This advice is no good, obviously, if you don’t trust the flyshop or if there is no flyshop in your area. Good luck. — Ken Fortenberry

Response:

Ken, What kind of reel would you put on the "Cabela’s Three Forks model 908"? Inquiring newbies want to know … – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – … I am interested in buying an outfit that would suit me for bass-steelhead-salmon. I am confused by the different line weights … Anyway I am looking for some ideas. Line weights are actually the easy part of your query, Chuck. You’re gonna want either a 7 or an 8 weight. The other parts are much harder to give guidance on, none of us knows what would suit you, in the first place, and most folks like a faster action for a bass rod and a slower action for a salmon/steelhead rod. Here’s my suggestion, get the Cabela’s Three Forks model 908, that’s a 9′ rod for an 8wt line. It’s only $40 and a lot of the guys around here swear by them in the smaller sizes. Good luck. — Ken Fortenberry

– Grumpy – http://grumpysplace.net 2000 FLSTC "Babe" – 1987 XLH 1200 "The Wolf" "Nobody loves me but my mother…and she could be jivin’ too" – B.B. King —— Visit http://www.eddiekieger.com     Go, Eddie! rmh FAQ’s: http://home.earthlink.net/~mildness/yo/

Response:

Question:

Thanks Possibly I can get a answer from IGFA before we go. I can almost see it going either way – Actually I guess its not very different from the way most tube flies are constructed since the head and front fly is mounted on the shock tippet. On my tubes I am using 90# wire with the 2nd tube between the 2 tandem hooks and then attaching the leading hook to the shock with a cinch knot and placing  a foam head and the leading tube mounted on the shock tippet. I am using owner AKI’s so the snelling doesn’t work – they don’t have turned up eyes like the octopus hooks he’s using. He’s not really planning on conforming to IGFA anyways and is planning to use 3-4′ shocks. I was just intrigued by the simplicity of his rigs. On the landing: On all my gear trips the standard has been to "leader" a billfish to boat to be released or brought in for pictures, but on standard gear the leader is like 10′ long.  I am planning to use about 4′-5′ total leader including class and shock. I seem to recall reading somewhere, or being told by a captain, that a billfish was "caught" or the "landing phase starts" when either the leader or class tippet went inside the first guide or something. After that the mate could leader the fish  to control it while gaffing, netting, billing  or releasing. Reeling down to the class shouldn’t be a major problem, but trying to "leader" a billfish at 3′-4′ sounds very dangerous. On most of my other offshore flyfishing experiences we were either gaffing or netting the fish so, it wasn’t much of an issue using very short leaders. I hope to get to read an actual IGFA book this weekend – maybe it will clarify the specifics. Thanks again for the info.

  Hello   I also submitted this question to the Igfa site under construction but I   don’t know if they are set up to give responses yet.     I was wondering what the IGFA states concerning Shock tippets and tandem   flies.     It’s my understanding that the shock tippet length can be up to 12" to the   eye of the leading hook on a tandem fly and the max distance between tandem   hooks on a fly is 6" eye to eye.     1. Does the shock tippet require a separate connection at the fly or can the   shock leader be snelled to the first hook then the tag end of the same line   be attached to the back hook?  That would total 18" of the same shock   tippet – class to trailing hook.   If I understand what you mean, no.  The best rule of thumb is to use tackle that   won’t raise eyebrows, i.e., "usual and customary" (and taint a record with the   "technical record" charge).     A friend of mine is rigging some flies like this for Billfish.  Although the   fly would only have "one shot" (until the shock tippet was damaged) the   connection is very clean, straight running, and seems to give an extra 6" of   shock.   See above.       Also I have another nagging basic question.   2. When is a fish considered "caught" on fly gear – so someone else can   touch the line or leader  and assist in the landing or releasing the fish.   Is the when the leader goes in the rod tip? the class line, the shock?   something else?   Absolutely no touching the leader before the fish is "landed" and only in   gaffing or netting.  If someone else helps before the fish is brought to gaff,   DQ.   The above is solely my opinion, based on my knowledge only (I’ve read the rules,   and have only a passing knowledge, I don’t fish for record/trophy anymore).  If   you are going for record, you captain should have a working and ready knowledge,   as well as a copy of the rulebook to refer to.  If you are going on a bareboat   for record, get a copy of the rules from the IGFA (they are in Ft. Lauderdale –   561 area code).   HTH?   R

Response:

Thanks   Anyone have a URL for the IGFA fly fishing rules online?   I tried www.igfa.org  - under construction   Does anyone have the rules posted on their pages?   Thanks     Google turned up this one:   http://www.wolfffishing.com/ingamfisasru.html   —   Charlie…

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Hello I also summited this question to the Igfa site under construction but I don’t know if they are set up to give responces yet. I was wondering what the IGFA states concerning Shock tippets and tandem flies. It’s my understanding that the shock tippet length can be up to 12" to the eye of the leading hook on a tandem fly and the max distance between tandem hooks on a fly is 6" eye to eye. 1. Does the shock tippet require a separate connection at the fly or can the shock leader be snelled to the first hook then the tag end of the same line be attached to the back hook?  That would total 18" of the same shock tippet – class to trailing hook.

If I understand what you mean, no.  THe best rule of thumb is to use tackle that won’t raise eyebrows, i.e., "usual and customary" (and taint a record with the "technical record" charge). A friend of mine is rigging some flies like this for Billfish.  Although the fly would only have "one shot" (until the shock tippet was damaged) the connection is very clean, straight running, and seems to give an extra 6" of shock.

See above. Also I have another nagging basic question. 2. When is a fish considered "caught" on fly gear – so someone else can touch the line or leader  and assist in the landing or releasing the fish. Is the when the leader goes in the rod tip? the class line, the shock? something else?

Absolutely no touching the leader before the fish is "landed" and only in gaffing or netting.  If someone else helps before the fish is brought to gaff, DQ. The above is solely my opinion, based on my knowledge only (I’ve read the rules, and have only a passing knowledge, I don’t fish for record/trophy anymore).  If you are going for record, you captain should have a working and ready knowledge, as well as a copy of the rulebook to refer to.  If you are going on a bareboat for record, get a copy of the rules from the IGFA (they are in Ft. Lauderdale – 561 area code). HTH? R

Response:

Anyone have a URL for the IGFA fly fishing rules online? I tried www.igfa.org  - under construction Does anyone have the rules posted on their pages? Thanks

Response:

Anyone have a URL for the IGFA fly fishing rules online? I tried www.igfa.org  - under construction Does anyone have the rules posted on their pages? Thanks

No, but rule did you need info on? R

Response:

Anyone have a URL for the IGFA fly fishing rules online? I tried www.igfa.org  - under construction Does anyone have the rules posted on their pages? Thanks

Google turned up this one: http://www.wolfffishing.com/ingamfisasru.html — Charlie…

Response:

Hello I also summited this question to the Igfa site under construction but I don’t know if they are set up to give responces yet. I was wondering what the IGFA states concerning Shock tippets and tandem flies. It’s my understanding that the shock tippet length can be up to 12" to the eye of the leading hook on a tandem fly and the max distance between tandem hooks on a fly is 6" eye to eye. 1. Does the shock tippet require a separate connection at the fly or can the shock leader be snelled to the first hook then the tag end of the same line be attached to the back hook?  That would total 18" of the same shock tippet – class to trailing hook. A friend of mine is rigging some flies like this for Billfish.  Although the fly would only have "one shot" (until the shock tippet was damaged) the connection is very clean, straight running, and seems to give an extra 6" of shock. Also I have another nagging basic question. 2. When is a fish considered "caught" on fly gear – so someone else can touch the line or leader  and assist in the landing or releasing the fish. Is the when the leader goes in the rod tip? the class line, the shock? something else? Thanks for any insights you might have on these questions Anyone have a URL for the IGFA fly fishing rules online? I tried www.igfa.org  - under construction Does anyone have the rules posted on their pages? Thanks

No, but rule did you need info on? R

Response:

Question:

Not at all, the computer is built into the handle of my large arbor,  the modem is in the reel seat of my nine weight, and my telecopying staff doubles as a printer, and I only write this stuff on the fly. TL MC — "In order to achieve what is possible, one must constantly attempt the impossible" http://www.mikeconnor.de

Response:

(don’t keep the knife in your chest-fly-box, you may fall and cut your tits)

LOL Many newsgroups go through cycles of on-topic, then a spark, then much nastiness, then a cool-down, then humor, then on-topic…… We appear to be in the humor stage. Regards, Jeff

Response:

If you wish to learn fillet trout, a very useful skill in life, there are several ways to do it, and two require a knife, grab a knife, then grab the trout, and cut it into bits, (don’t keep the knife in your chest-fly-box, you may fall and cut your tits) This applies to other things as well, and if certain gear you

Question:

In 2 days, the auction for a Beautiful Hardy Marquis 6 Fly Fishing Reel – No Reserve – will be completed. Please check it out. Thanks!

Response:

Question:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Hire a guide. He will teach you more in one day than you can learn in a year by yourself. sage advise. oh yeah…wear some shoes. stingrays are painful. –Wataugan Walt Another piece of advice, if you gotta void DON’t do it in the water if you are waist deep. Walk to the shore and do it in the bushes. It’s a little known fact, sharks home on human urine. Be sure not to take it out when you are waist deep and go.                                                        John Popp                                                       in Sanford Fl.         john, dammit, you blew it!  here we were, about to complete an honest to god, serious, informative, boring, lifeless thread, and here you come with some witty, lively humor.  we just must purge roff of such trash!         your anal retentive buddy,         wayno wayno

 But I was serious (sob sob). Does no one take me seriously. Now that youve negated my advice by relegating it to humor, don’t blame me if the advice is not taken and the worm is.                                                            John Popp                                                      in Sanford Fl.

Response:

don’t blame me if the advice is not taken and the worm is.

Stop it John! Your killing me! Capt. Gary S. Colecchio West Palm Beach, Florida "Lie ? Me ? Never!  No, no, no, the truth is far too much fun !" – Captain Hook

Response:

Hire a guide. He will teach you more in one day than you can learn in a year by yourself.

Response:

Hire a guide. He will teach you more in one day than you can learn in a year by yourself.

sage advise. oh yeah…wear some shoes. stingrays are painful. –Wataugan Walt

Response:

There are places to wade around there but, as others have suggested, get a guide – at least for a day. Oh, and do wear shoes and shuffle your feet when you walk so you don’t step on a ray. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Hi, I’ll be in the Florida Keys the week of Thanksgiving.  I’m hoping to catch my first Bonefish.  However, I know nothing about the Keys or Bonefish.  To further complicate things I’m a relatively new fly fisherman. So any information/tips would be most welcome.  I’ll be staying in Islamorada.  I do not have a boat so I’ll be wading. Questions. 1. Where should I fish? 2. What time of the day should I fish?  Or is it what part of the tide do I fish? 3. Any pointers on fly fishing for bonefish would be helpful. 4. Any dangers I should know about?  Should I wear shoes?  Is there bad things to step on? Many thanks, David PS I heard Harry Harris park is a good place to fish.  Is this true? Also, I’ll have my Golden Retriever along.  Where can I take her when I’m not fishing?

– Charlie…

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Hire a guide. He will teach you more in one day than you can learn in a year by yourself. sage advise. oh yeah…wear some shoes. stingrays are painful. –Wataugan Walt Another piece of advice, if you gotta void DON’t do it in the water if you are waist deep. Walk to the shore and do it in the bushes. It’s a little known fact, sharks home on human urine. Be sure not to take it out when you are waist deep and go.                                                        John Popp                                                       in Sanford Fl.

        john, dammit, you blew it!  here we were, about to complete an honest to god, serious, informative, boring, lifeless thread, and here you come with some witty, lively humor.  we just must purge roff of such trash!         your anal retentive buddy,         wayno wayno

Response:

Hire a guide. He will teach you more in one day than you can learn in a year by yourself. sage advise. oh yeah…wear some shoes. stingrays are painful. –Wataugan Walt

Another piece of advice, if you gotta void DON’t do it in the water if you are waist deep. Walk to the shore and do it in the bushes. It’s a little known fact, sharks home on human urine. Be sure not to take it out when you are waist deep and go.                                                         John Popp                                                        in Sanford Fl.

Response:

Hi, I’ll be in the Florida Keys the week of Thanksgiving.  I’m hoping to catch my first Bonefish.  However, I know nothing about the Keys or Bonefish.  To further complicate things I’m a relatively new fly fisherman. So any information/tips would be most welcome.  I’ll be staying in Islamorada.  I do not have a boat so I’ll be wading. Questions. 1. Where should I fish? 2. What time of the day should I fish?  Or is it what part of the tide do I fish? 3. Any pointers on fly fishing for bonefish would be helpful. 4. Any dangers I should know about?  Should I wear shoes?  Is there bad things to step on? Many thanks, David PS I heard Harry Harris park is a good place to fish.  Is this true? Also, I’ll have my Golden Retriever along.  Where can I take her when I’m not fishing?

Response:

Question:

Steve, Bud built a highly modified 2+2 Sportsman; larger cabin, Super Cub wings, extended fuselage, and Ford 3.8L V-6 engine as the power plant. The Sportsman is, in theory, a reproduction of the PA-14 Family Cruiser; four place cross country plane- good, solid, load carrying cub. I also had a set of plans and was starting construction as Bud was finishing construction. My study of the prints found many areas that did not line-up and calls to WagAero were met with a couldn’t-care-less attitude. When I asked Bud about the lack of support he took off on a 20 minute tirade about their extreamly poor responce to questions. I have not found any improvment in technical support  since WagAero changed ownership. I set aside the plans at the moment Dave Blanton came out with the "V-6 STOL" plans/kit. The V-6 STOL is also a reproduction of the PA-14 Family Cruiser but evolved from a very different direction than the 2+2. The V-6 STOL starts with a salvaged TriPacer- the fuselage is lengthened, the wings are lengthened, it is converted to tailwheel configuration and the Ford 3.8L V-6 engine installed. The end result is acheived much more quickly that the plans built 2+2 (Blanton used to call it a "kit" because all the parts were there- you just had to do a little re-assembly- if you stick to the Blanton prints it can be built in 500 hours). Dave D. Blanton V-6 STOL and Ford 3.8L Conversion Info Packet 662 S. Governour Wichita, KS 67207 316-686-8500 This was the address and phone published in the December ‘96 issue of KITPLANES. There are several hundred V-6 STOL builders and fliers out here so the support and information exchange through the newsletter is good–better than Wag Aero’s tech help. WagAero will supply you with a list of plans purchashers but I found only a couple who had finished it. Email your questions to Bud, email your Smail address to me and I’ll send you a sample of the newsletter. And if you wish, when I send you the sample, I’ll include the name of another 2+2-with-Ford-engine builder who’s been flying for several years(he modified his plans less than Bud did). One last comment, take a look at the Bearhawk homebuilt as another alternative to the Family Cruiser route. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I’d like to know the following things from people who have built or flown this design: 1) Why did it interest you in the first place? 2) Did it meet your expectations? Building and/or flying… 3) How long did it take to build (years duration, hours of effort)? 4) Did it perform as claimed? 5) What engine did you use? 6) Who did you go to for help when you couldn’t figure out what was intended by reading the plans? 7) Would you do it again? If no on #7, what would you do instead. Here’s why I’m interested in this design: 1) It’s plans built, not kit built. 2) It’s a conventional design with reasonable performance claims. 3) It looks like it would fit me, my small wife, and two kids, one of whom will be a teenager before I could finish. 4) I would like to experiment with alternative wing designs (STOL) and engines. This design could easily be built to plans, then once proven out, the wings and/or engine changed. In other words, the design doesn’t appear to be highly optimized to the designer’s choice of either of those items, and tube and fabric designs are more easily cut and patched than sheet metal or plastic designs. Ultimately, I’d like to end up with something like a small version of the Sherpa. I’ve seen it up close, and it’s a bit too grandiose for me, but I like a lot of the ideas. Steven Estergreen, MSME, PE Mulino, OR PP,ASEL,Instrument,Tailwheel,Complex

– Bruce A. Frank, Editor         "Ford 3.8L Engine and V-6 STOL               (-o-)/       AIRCRAFT PROJECTS CO.                ___/          Manufacturing parts & pieces               /             for homebuilt aircraft, TIG welding              O       O — Bruce A. Frank, Editor         "Ford 3.8L Engine and V-6 STOL               (-o-)/       AIRCRAFT PROJECTS CO.                ___/          Manufacturing parts & pieces               /             for homebuilt aircraft, TIG welding              O       O

Response:

Steve, Bud built a highly modified 2+2 Sportsman; larger cabin, Super Cub wings, extended fuselage, and Ford 3.8L V-6 engine as the power plant. The Sportsman is, in theory, a reproduction of the PA-14 Family Cruiser; four place cross country plane- good, solid, load carrying cub. I also had a set of plans and was starting construction as Bud was finishing construction. My study of the prints found many areas that did not line-up and calls to WagAero were met with a couldn’t-care-less attitude. When I asked Bud about the lack of support he took off on a 20 minute tirade about their extreamly poor responce to questions. I have not found any improvment in technical support  since WagAero changed ownership. I set aside the plans at the moment Dave Blanton came out with the "V-6 STOL" plans/kit. The V-6 STOL is also a reproduction of the PA-14 Family Cruiser but evolved from a very different direction than the 2+2. The V-6 STOL starts with a salvaged TriPacer- the fuselage is lengthened, the wings are lengthened, it is converted to tailwheel configuration and the Ford 3.8L V-6 engine installed. The end result is acheived much more quickly that the plans built 2+2 (Blanton used to call it a "kit" because all the parts were there- you just had to do a little re-assembly- if you stick to the Blanton prints it can be built in 500 hours). Dave D. Blanton V-6 STOL and Ford 3.8L Conversion Info Packet 662 S. Governour Wichita, KS 67207 316-686-8500 This was the address and phone published in the December ‘96 issue of KITPLANES. There are several hundred V-6 STOL builders and fliers out here so the support and information exchange through the newsletter is good–better than Wag Aero’s tech help. WagAero will supply you with a list of plans purchashers but I found only a couple who had finished it. Email your questions to Bud, email your Smail address to me and I’ll send you a sample of the newsletter. And if you wish, when I send you the sample, I’ll include the name of another 2+2-with-Ford-engine builder who’s been flying for several years(he modified his plans less than Bud did). One last comment, take a look at the Bearhawk homebuilt as another alternative to the Family Cruiser route. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I’d like to know the following things from people who have built or flown this design: 1) Why did it interest you in the first place? 2) Did it meet your expectations? Building and/or flying… 3) How long did it take to build (years duration, hours of effort)? 4) Did it perform as claimed? 5) What engine did you use? 6) Who did you go to for help when you couldn’t figure out what was intended by reading the plans? 7) Would you do it again? If no on #7, what would you do instead. Here’s why I’m interested in this design: 1) It’s plans built, not kit built. 2) It’s a conventional design with reasonable performance claims. 3) It looks like it would fit me, my small wife, and two kids, one of whom will be a teenager before I could finish. 4) I would like to experiment with alternative wing designs (STOL) and engines. This design could easily be built to plans, then once proven out, the wings and/or engine changed. In other words, the design doesn’t appear to be highly optimized to the designer’s choice of either of those items, and tube and fabric designs are more easily cut and patched than sheet metal or plastic designs. Ultimately, I’d like to end up with something like a small version of the Sherpa. I’ve seen it up close, and it’s a bit too grandiose for me, but I like a lot of the ideas. Steven Estergreen, MSME, PE Mulino, OR PP,ASEL,Instrument,Tailwheel,Complex

– Bruce A. Frank, Editor         "Ford 3.8L Engine and V-6 STOL               (-o-)/       AIRCRAFT PROJECTS CO.                ___/          Manufacturing parts & pieces               /             for homebuilt aircraft, TIG welding              O       O

Response:

Steve, I have a 2 + 2 that I built and fly on wheels(26×10.5×6), skis(alum. homebuilt) and floats(Full Lotus 2250’s).  I made a number of changes including a wing kit from the NorthStar (super cub) from Custom Flight Components.  If you would like any more info on changes etc I made e-mail me direct. rick c- I’d like to know the following things from people who have built or flown this design: 1) Why did it interest you in the first place?

side by side seating for 2 with plenty of cargo space in a plans built design. 2) Did it meet your expectations? Building and/or flying…

Yes, especially with the NorthStar wing. 3) How long did it take to build (years duration, hours of effort)?

2200 man hours not counting building the float rigging or skis. 4) Did it perform as claimed?

Pretty hard to say as I use it for bush flying and use a 8244 Borer prop and any of the gear choices I use are high drag, so cruise is in the toliet, take off etc is fine, 600 ft gravel bars are my minumum for fishing and 800 ft. hauling out hunting gear and meat.  1/2 miles lakes fine.  One thing I can say is no way 1050 lbs is realistic empty weight.(as I recall this is Wag-Aero claim) I know of none that came out this light.  Lightest one I know about was a non-electric, narrow deck 150 powered, no interior, stock super cub wing and it went 1080.  Mine with admitted heavier NorthStar wing (but worth it) and spartan interior, full electric, min. radio and gps is 1279.  Good news is gross weight is not fixed at plans figures but you are on your own here. Anyway I have talked to Canadians that claim 200 hp versions are regularly used there at 2600lbs, I have seen ones that were licensed at 2450 lbs, we use 2400 on floats and 2250 on wheels but the spars have doublers, etc. 5) What engine did you use?

160 lyc. but should have sprung for 180 or 200, do have Ellison and crossover exh. keep thinking about nitros (sp?) injection or a blower, maybe build a crank fire ign. 6) Who did you go to for help when you couldn’t figure out what was intended by reading the plans?

Not Wag-Aero found them worthless, but I built it when Wagner owned it, have no idea if it has changed. Best bet is find a builder or engineer it yourself. 7) Would you do it again?

Yes, only thing I don’t like is access due to door design, can see that when I get older (say what?) this may be a problem.  Lots of highly aclaimed designs out there but for a reliable utility aircraft 2+2 is hard to beat, by the way if you don’t want to build a fuselage from scratch you might consider the Bushmaster, v-6 Stol (but with a lighter engine – Sorry Bruce!) route of using an extended PA-20/22 fuselage and put a good wing design on it(NorthStar – sorry to keep bringing it up but am really pleased with it).  You will have a little better access, wider cabin and essentially same aircraft.  This is what I might consider today. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – If no on #7, what would you do instead.

Response:

I’d like to know the following things from people who have built or flown this design: 1) Why did it interest you in the first place? 2) Did it meet your expectations? Building and/or flying… 3) How long did it take to build (years duration, hours of effort)? 4) Did it perform as claimed? 5) What engine did you use? 6) Who did you go to for help when you couldn’t figure out what was intended by reading the plans? 7) Would you do it again? If no on #7, what would you do instead. Here’s why I’m interested in this design: 1) It’s plans built, not kit built. 2) It’s a conventional design with reasonable performance claims. 3) It looks like it would fit me, my small wife, and two kids, one of whom will be a teenager before I could finish. 4) I would like to experiment with alternative wing designs (STOL) and engines. This design could easily be built to plans, then once proven out, the wings and/or engine changed. In other words, the design doesn’t appear to be highly optimized to the designer’s choice of either of those items, and tube and fabric designs are more easily cut and patched than sheet metal or plastic designs. Ultimately, I’d like to end up with something like a small version of the Sherpa. I’ve seen it up close, and it’s a bit too grandiose for me, but I like a lot of the ideas. Steven Estergreen, MSME, PE Mulino, OR PP,ASEL,Instrument,Tailwheel,Complex

Response:

Question:

Now that summer is more than half over, thoughts about a mid winter break are stirring. What are the best places in bahamas for bonefishing holiday in terms of price, ease to get to, accomodations, and, of course, fishing opportunties. How far in advance must one book. what are the best travel people to use. I(s there a better choice from the North east US? Your thoughts are appreciated.

Response:

Now that summer is more than half over, thoughts about a mid winter break are stirring. What are the best places in bahamas for bonefishing holiday in terms of price, ease to get to, accomodations, and, of course, fishing opportunties. How far in advance must one book. what are the best travel people to use. I(s there a better choice from the North east US? Your thoughts are appreciated.

November is a good time for a fall trip to the Bahamas, the FL Keys or Central America. There are many excellent destinations to choose from. Call Frontier Travel at 1-800-245-1950 and they can send you some good info on many lodges. William Kiene Kiene’s Fly Shop Sacramento,CA,USA

Response:

Question:

Has anyone been able to find fishable water within 2 hours of Denver? I tried several streams in RMNP last weekend but they are all running high and fast. Cheeseman is at about 2000 CFS. The Big Thompson is currently running at about 300CFS below Lake Estes and although I haven’t seen the river at this volume it sounds fishable (?). Any tips would be GREATLY appreciated!

Response:

Has anyone been able to find fishable water within 2 hours of Denver? I tried several streams in RMNP last weekend but they are all running high and fast. Cheeseman is at about 2000 CFS. The Big Thompson is currently running at about 300CFS below Lake Estes and although I haven’t seen the river at this volume it sounds fishable (?). Any tips would be GREATLY appreciated!

Hiya Justin! I have been experiencing the same problems with blown out streams in Colorado until very recently. Upon realizing that any stream attempt was going to be a disaster, I begrudgingly decided to try my hand at some small lakes. Traditionally, I am the worlds WORST lake fisherman with a fly. I usually cannot catch ANYTHING, but I figured that this option was better than drowning in a swollen river. On a whim, I decided to try fishing the lake at the bottom of St. Mary’s Glacier on Saturday. The fishing was SO much fun that I took Monday off from work to do it again. That lake literally boils with rising brookies. Most of the fish are small (5-8 inches), but they aren’t very picky and it is one of the most beautiful spots around. Fishing there was a great confidence booster for me and while the fish weren’t big, they did end the frustration I have been having with my recent river trips. If you haven’t been there before, just take I-70 slightly past Idaho Springs to Fall River Road (Exit 238). Take fall river road up for quite a ways (You will go over spots of unpaved road) and eventually there is a small parking area on the right and wide rubble trail on the left. Hike up the trail on the left about 3/4 mile. Tie on just about anything and have fun. I caught a bunch on a #18 Blue Wing Olive, but I even took a few on a #12 Adams. Be prepared for funky weather. I got snowed on on Saturday and rained on on Moday. Tight Lines, Chad McArthur

Response:

Has anyone been able to find fishable water within 2 hours of Denver? I tried several streams in RMNP last weekend but they are all running high and fast. Cheeseman is at about 2000 CFS. The Big Thompson is currently running at about 300CFS below Lake Estes and although I haven’t seen the river at this volume it sounds fishable (?). Any tips would be GREATLY appreciated!

Decided to combat near terminal cabin fever and trucked up to S. but sure no crowds.  Caught three in three hours, including the nicest brown on that stretch in two years -18-19".  Wasn’t a lot of fun, tho, with insane tangles trying to cast three 3/0 split shots over top of willows behind.  Can’t wade out more than 3-4′, but fish are to be found close in if you can find some fairly slow water.  Took them all on big bright red worm.  Think Dick at Flies and Lies in Decker called it a "traditional ol’ English-tied worm".  You gotta be near spiritual about this sport to find these conditions a kick!!

Response:

The rivers have been less then ideal.  For myself, I have turned to one of my second favorite activities.  Fly fishing for Bluegill.  Here in the Grand Junction area we have a couple of places that are producing ‘gills to 9 inches plus.  On a four wt. they are a blast.  My E-Mail is I don’t mind company, I just value good fish too much to want to see the meat hunters showing up.

Response:

I’ll be coming out that way in August to visit my brother at CU.  I’ve been to S. Platte and Buffalo (man that place was really crowded), and Cloudland Canyon last spring but am really looking for something a little less crowded (and less touristy).  Need help in Atlanta, Jeff

Response:

Jeff, Since you will be in Boulder you could try the Cache La Poudre. It’s west of Ft. Collins. It has some prime water sites. Other places include the Frying Pan river near Basalt, CO and the Colorado river near

Response: