Question:

With a crossbow. Clark

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Any one can cast a dead cat, it’s the live cat that takes real application!!!! Speaking of which, what is the best way to attach the hook and weight a cat? Warren "get a dog and kill a non-barn cat" Findley <g

Response:

With a crossbow.

So do you tie the tippet on around the bolt by the fletching, then pull the bolt through and then tie on the hook or what? Inquiring minds want to know dammit! <g — Warren Findley Remove (nospamZZ) to respond via email http://www.geocities.com/troutbum_mt/

Response:

Yes tippet to the bolt and fired so the barbed bolt buries deep enough to ensure a solid connection. If a hook is reverse mounted and tied to the bolt it should be left protruding  enough to ensure hookups. Another tip… good floatant for cats is Mherke’s Manx. Clark

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – With a crossbow. So do you tie the tippet on around the bolt by the fletching, then pull the bolt through and then tie on the hook or what? Inquiring minds want to know dammit! <g — Warren Findley Remove (nospamZZ) to respond via email http://www.geocities.com/troutbum_mt/

Response:

(Salmo gairdneri) The steelhead

Steelhead and rainbows have been reclassified as Onchorynchus mykiss since they are related to pacific salmon and not atlantic salmon. Ocean prowling fish follow food to depths ranging in the hundreds of feet.  This is known to be true in all our deep land locked and Great Lakes.  Color becomes a primary concern to fly tiers and most everyone does not know that the color "Yellow" changes the deeper it goes under water.

Color can matter greatly.  Trolling on the Great Lakes at deptsh of 60 to 100 feet, one week the hot color might be Monkey Puke and the next week it’s a Kevorkian. Mu

Response:

Color can matter greatly.  Trolling on the Great Lakes at deptsh of 60 to 100 feet, one week the hot color might be Monkey Puke and the next week it’s a Kevorkian.

Hmm…I can’t find those colors on my Borger chart… /daytripper (Any shot for #27?)

Response:

Splork!  Trip, you get the bill for cleaning the spewed Dr. Pepper out of my keyboard.     — Frank Reid Reverse email to reply.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Color can matter greatly.  Trolling on the Great Lakes at deptsh of 60 to 100 feet, one week the hot color might be Monkey Puke and the next week it’s a Kevorkian. Hmm…I can’t find those colors on my Borger chart… /daytripper (Any shot for #27?)

Response:

George: Thanks for the info about streamers. I think most of us have not spent as much time as we should learning to tie and fish streamers properly. WhenIi went to the FFF Show in Livingston last month one of the classes in tying that I took was one taught by Scott Sanchez. Among the flies he taught us to tie was the Double Bunny. For those who are not aware, this is the fly that won the One Fly Contest three times and they considered banning it from the contest simply because it worked so well. This fly uses a large hook, a bunch of .035 lead wire and two magnum sized rabbit strips glued together. If you tie it big enough, you need AT LEAST an 8 weight rod to cast it and a 10 weight rod is even better. Casting this streamer is no damn fun, since it feels like you are casting a dead cat, but it sure catches big fish. Our local striper lake is turning over now, so the striper fishing has gone away for a while below the damn, but I am getting a box full of Double Bunny flies ready for when this fishing returns. I may have to break out the big rod and a few of these streamers next month when I will be fishing the White River in Arkansas. I feel a need to work some of these streamers in some holes in that river. Big Dale

Response:

Any one can cast a dead cat, it’s the live cat that takes real application!!!!

Speaking of which, what is the best way to attach the hook and weight a cat? Warren "get a dog and kill a non-barn cat" Findley <g

Response:

Any one can cast a dead cat, it’s the live cat that takes real application!!!! Clark

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – George: Thanks for the info about streamers. I think most of us have not spent as much time as we should learning to tie and fish streamers properly. WhenIi went to the FFF Show in Livingston last month one of the classes in tying that I took was one taught by Scott Sanchez. Among the flies he taught us to tie was the Double Bunny. For those who are not aware, this is the fly that won the One Fly Contest three times and they considered banning it from the contest simply because it worked so well. This fly uses a large hook, a bunch of .035 lead wire and two magnum sized rabbit strips glued together. If you tie it big enough, you need AT LEAST an 8 weight rod to cast it and a 10 weight rod is even better. Casting this streamer is no damn fun, since it feels like you are casting a dead cat, but it sure catches big fish. Our local striper lake is turning over now, so the striper fishing has gone away for a while below the damn, but I am getting a box full of Double Bunny flies ready for when this fishing returns. I may have to break out the big rod and a few of these streamers next month when I will be fishing the White River in Arkansas. I feel a need to work some of these streamers in some holes in that river. Big Dale

Response:

GEORGE GEHRKE Snake River – Hell’s Canyon                     September 5, 2001, 12:00 AM Asotin, WA 99402 PH: 509-243-4100 FAX: 509-243-4644  The old adage, "If you want to catch big fish you should use big bait," has a proven history of working.  When it comes to streamers and their use, I can’t begin to tell all the stories involving the deadly use of them. Streamers are intended to perform two major things when fishing under water.  To entice as in offering an attractor and two, to duplicate something.  In the latter case, streamers are intended to duplicate minnows and small fish. There is a third presentation and that is the combining of the two of an attractor that is also a minnow.  The first streamer that comes to mind is the "Mickey Finn" because it is an attractor but also comes across as a small trout such as the rainbow, brown, or even the cutthroat.  Many large fish take streamers with great power because they sometimes only get a glimpse of it shooting by. I never go anywhere without a couple of these babies somewhere in my vest. Specifically, today I took Gladys out to "Ernie’s Restaurant" which is a Gulf Side place in South Panama City.  It sits among the docks and your view is that of beautiful boats moored dock side.  In between is the kind of clean water that has prowling Snook and other various predators. As we sat snacking on our entrees of crab-cakes and mushrooms laced with a large Jack Daniels Black and seven, I noticed the slick, mirrored water about a hundred yards up, between to docks starting to vibrate which is "nervous water" which really are minnows being corralled.  I said, "Gladys, look!  See that nervous water?  You’re about to see a very nice fish come leaping or swirling right there. Like us, the feed is on."  I no sooner say this and by golly, a very large Snook came out of the water with a mouthful of minnows while two others only slash and soon the water goes calm.  A minute later, the nervous water moves twenty yards toward the docks and under one of them.  The chase continues for over a half hour. Perhaps they were small mullet?  If one knew what they were and if they had a streamer that matched that nervous water, it would be a winner.  There is nothing more thrilling then catching a Snook that pushes twenty pounds or more.  Often these babies around docks are ten to fifteen pounders and on a fly rod one couldn’t ask for more. Well, saltwater fly fishing with streamers isn’t the only place you can catch big fish.  Fresh water streamers are the things one uses most often to set World Records with.  Del Canty of old is a prime example of a master streamer fly fisherman.  He once came to the American Sportsman’s Club in Denver Colorado with a 12 pound Rainbow he caught with a size 4 Muddler Minnow just above the Wigwam Club.  He used a sinking line and twitched that Muddler across the bottom of a deep pool and he was there at day break.  Catching big fish with streamers seems to work best at night, early morning and late evenings. When ocean running salmon and steelhead, both being anadromous fish, give the fly fisherman a great advantage because they come back to their birth rivers with memories.  Yes, conditioned memories, for they know what they’ve been chasing and feeding on a thousand miles away. IF, we as fly fishermen can "Match the Memory" with the proper streamers, you’ve hit a home run. Here, is a unique problem that presents itself.  As with the Mickey Finn, one is able to duplicate minnow type and attractive thoughts such as sparkle of the Minnie scales that explode and drift and shine during feeding attacks into schools of minnows.  We can duplicate the carnage in the red we use in our streamers for the blood, and you’re able to tie the baby smolt of other fish, the sardines, darters, any number of things that live in between you and their ocean homes. (Salmo gairdneri) The steelhead, will return to the ocean three and even four or more times but not much over that.  The salmon return and often propagate only once and then die.  Their flesh turns back into nutrients and returns to the sea.  Birds, animals, all that is in contact with a salmon river benefit directly and indirectly.  But the steelhead is a creature that can provide a fly fisherman with an endless amount of useful information.  For instance. Ocean prowling fish follow food to depths ranging in the hundreds of feet.  This is known to be true in all our deep land locked and Great Lakes.  Color becomes a primary concern to fly tiers and most everyone does not know that the color "Yellow" changes the deeper it goes under water. It doesn’t take much depth to affect yellow as the ultraviolet rays separate from normal white light when it enters the water.  Yellow becomes various shades of green.  If Steelhead or any other fish that is atune to a shade of green on an offering being offered deep, a green at the beginning will be the wrong green down deep, whereas one may want to consider starting with a shade of yellow for it to become the right shade of green upon arrival.  This is why I have some Green Butted Skunks tied with yellow butts instead of green, just in case. It works! What we don’t know about fly tying and streamers is infinitely greater then what we know, which means, we really don’t know all that much yet.  Streamers and tying them and then fishing them, even in these modern times is of less interest to the general fly fishing public then they were in the past.  I’m from the old streamer school of fly fishermen.  I’m one of those old fogies that did more (and still do) more streamer fly fishing then dry fly fishing.  In fact, I do three times more nymph fishing then I do dries.  To my mind, trout and most fish do 9/10ths of their feeding under water, not taking things off the top only 1/10th of the time.  Somehow, I think following the real action makes more sense.  True, dry fly fishing is the nicest thing to do since sex.  Who can argue with that.  Thank goodness fly fishing lasts longer. I don’t know what the real percentage is regarding how much food trout get under water but I’m confident it’s over 7/10ths of the time. Trout don’t like coming to the surface because it’s dangerous!  If the food supply and calorie content makes it worth it, sure they’re going to rise to the fly but it is still dangerous.  This is one of the main reasons STREAMERS make trout feel right at home.  They are used to chasing things and they like chasing my streamers. That, sort of makes me smile a lot. Out of a half dozen favorite flies I’d pick the Muddler Minnow and Gold Ribbed Hare’s Ear as my first two choices.  The Muddler is so ugly it’s pretty.  Dave Whitlock has tied various styles of them and anyone who researches that aspect of his signature regarding Muddler Minnows will not be wasting their time. One should seine for the Muddler Minnows in their rivers for this could be an eye opener because they are often larger, darker, more big headed and uglier then you imagine.  Large trout don’t chase too many Muddlers because they are a well camouflaged fish and they hug the bottom in order to stay alive.  By offering a Muddler Minnow Streamer that comes off the bottom will get many fishes attention.  Many times when Steelhead fishing, you can track one of these in a convincing wake because you’re able to trim the chin in such a manner so it will plane properly.  Talk about a champion offering, this often will save the day. I often abandon streamers during the heat of the day not unless I can get into broken water where large fish are sulking under their window of safety.  Even then, the current is much too fast and you will often get only the eager, strong eighteen inch browns and bows.  It is NIGHT TIME where big fish come out to chase little fish up to about twelve to fourteen inches.  This is why one need not fear feeling ridiculous by offering a streamer monstrosity whenever it suits their fancy.  You know those big #2 4X hooks you have in storage slowly rusting away from lack of  use?  Well, those are the babies that those meat eating ten to twenty pound browns will chase willingly.  The darker the night, the better.  Never, never, never under estimate the seeing powers of trout’s eyes.  If you catch a big hog brown, do your future fishing a favor. Fillet it and send it to T-Bone for his Barbie. The attractive powers of streamers and night fishing is one of those unsung aspects of fly fishing that usually appeals to those who are willing to try anything new and who are not afraid of things that go thump in the night!  I knew of a day time worker that slept at night. He often fly fished at night and he always seemed to be catching the really big fish. Think about Bates and Steamers and Bodacious Browns.  You just might get hooked. Tying Streamers is really a LOT OF FUN!  Hooking up using them, even more!

Response:

Question:

Day Tripper writes: Did you learn The Handshake? The bonfire was a *great* idea. Was it Jo’s? ;^)

Yes, I learned the handshake.  It can be painful to pass on.  I’ve been trying since June to find a place to have a camp fire.  You know how they are up there about "kindled fires".  I asked Harry about it in August.  He’s the one that suggested a bonfire and easily got permission from every beaurocratic bimbo down the line.  The next morning the Roffian Navy reported smoke coming from the logs!   You are correct — a benchmark has been set.  But if PJ comes, I doubt the place will ever be the same. Dave LaCourse, Bottom Dweller

Response:

Back from Maine Games with some miscellaneous ramblings… Awesome job, Dave. Ya done good. REAL good! Did you learn The Handshake? The bonfire was a *great* idea. Was it Jo’s? ;^) Seeing the boys catch 18" salmon and brookies on #24 flies that they tied themselves in the cabin was very cool. Eyes were a-poppin’ – they didn’t believe it could be done! The Rapid River was the star, and she done good. Having the water down was probably a blessing for the out-of-towners who wouldn’t know how to wade that river at 1200 cfs. We had no serious casualties (though I nearly broke my ass falling off a spillway while landing a nice salmon). I think 500-600 cfs was why. Even with the low flow the water temps held to the mid-60s, keeping the fish active and hardy. Sue and the staff get extra snaps for putting up with a bunch of fish, beer, and "other"-crazed flat landers. And speaking of beer: there’s nothing brewed in Canada that is as lip-smacking delicious as Wachusett Country Ale. Seeing Jeff tag some BIG fish on small flies was fun to watch. He almost broke his normally reserved demeanor ;^) A CFO under extreme duress sounds *way* prettier than a Bougle. Had the S4 well into triple digits on the way up and back. What a blast. Flying jets at tree-top level must feel like this. And that newly paved road to South Arm would be perfect for time trials. Maine was its awesome self, bringing every form of weather short of snow. Breaking sweats one day, freezing my toes off on the cabin floor the next morning. Thank god for dry kindling and a wood stove. There ought to be a whole bunch of pictures coming soon. Nearly everyone was snapping shots… The most beautiful and finest casting cane rod I’ve ever held was built by Dave Price. I kept thinking I *could* hide his body and steal that rod… I challenge anyone to find me a comfortable camp next to a blue ribbon trout stream, surrounded by majestic natural beauty, and with the quality and quality of food that is Lakewood Camps (http://www.lakewoodcamps.com) Dry fly fishing in the rain is surprisingly fun if you’re actually catching fish. And the Rapid held some of the most beautifully colored trout you’ll ever catch. I’ve been home for a couple of hours – had to mow the lawn at our camp in Cow Hampster – and I’m already sick of the job NBC is doing with the Olympic Games. This is going to be a long couple of weeks… Thank goodness my old friend Dave Bottom picked this week to finally make it to the Rapid (after way too many years of my trying to get him over there). He brought that little something extra that kept his cabin mates in smiles (and bailed out Fortenberry). Next time we have to get the other half of "The Ordeal Masters" to come, too! Snaps to Mike C for the rod that Dave B won in the raffle. Nice piece of work and a magnanimous gesture that had Dave beaming when he rigged up the rod and took it to the river… Best laugh of the week: in the midst of a spectacular thundering cloudburst that beat the tin dam building like a drum and turned us all into drowned bank rats, someone drops Bill Murray’s "Caddy Shack" line about "The hard stuff won’t arrive for a while yet"… Next year? Heck yeah! Forty better show for it, too. My hat (the one Steve gifted us all with – thanks, Steve! It’s a beaut!) is solidly tipped to you, Dave. Thanks for a well done job. And thanks to everyone that attended. I had a great time – and on my favorite water. An E Ticket outing, for sure /daytripper (The benchmark has been set…)

Response:

Question:

I have only read one article on anything close to a home-made +ACI-braided+ACI- leader.  It is a section on +ACI-furled+ACI- leader in the book titled +ACI- Micro Patterns+ACI- by Darrel Martin.  Though a book about fishing flies sizes 16 or smaller, this section may be of help to you in terms of method and materials.  Give it a try anyway. tight lines. jimmy

+AD4-Please accept my apologies for the previous message – it appears there is +AD4-some problem with my service provider. +AD4- +AD4-I am looking at what woule be involved in braiding my own fly lines from +AD4-mono for salt water/suf type situations. As far as I can determine, getting +AD4-the weight of the line itself right is one of the major obstacles (to +AD4-ensure that the line is balanced to the rod, but what other problems am i +AD4-likely to come up against? +AD4- +AD4-Does anyone else have any experience in this area? +AD4- +AD4-TIA, +AD4- +AD4-    Vic

Response:

Home braided fly lines are the ideal compliment to hand whittled tapered leaders…. I remember grandpa out on the porch braiding up fly lines for the whole damned neighborhood. He’d do a line fer ya in exchange for a bottle of Mead back during prohibition. — TimW, Halfordian Golfer "Guilt replaced the creel…"

Response:

Here we go again, the first liar doesn’t stand a chance.  Did he whittle them out of a solid block? — Ernie Harrison Want To Tie Tapered leaders? Go To: http://users.ccnet.com/~emh/knots – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Home braided fly lines are the ideal compliment to hand whittled tapered leaders…. I remember grandpa out on the porch braiding up fly lines for the whole damned neighborhood. He’d do a line fer ya in exchange for a bottle of Mead back during prohibition. — TimW, Halfordian Golfer "Guilt replaced the creel…"

Response:

Must have been one hell of a leader to fetch such a high price.  People went to jail for that, you know. jimmy

+AD4-Home braided fly lines are the ideal compliment to hand whittled tapered +AD4-leaders…. +AD4- +AD4-I remember grandpa out on the porch braiding up fly lines for the whole +AD4-damned neighborhood. +AD4- +AD4-He’d do a line fer ya in exchange for a bottle of Mead back during +AD4-prohibition. +AD4- +AD4— +AD4-TimW, Halfordian Golfer +AD4AIg-Guilt replaced the creel…+ACI- +AD4- +AD4- +AD4-

Response:

I am looking at what woule be involved in braiding my own fly lines from mono for salt water/suf type situations. As far as I can determine, getting the weight of the line itself right is one of the major obstacles (to ensure that the line is balanced to the rod, but what other problems am i likely to come up against?

Friction drag in the air seems the main problem. For either unit weight or unit length, braided mono fly line would have much more surface than standard plastic line, thus incur much more drag in the air. You would probably need an unusual fly rod to be able to aerialize it for any cast longer than that available with a standard line. — |  Donald Phillipson, 4180 Boundary Road, Carlsbad Springs,  | |        Ontario, Canada, K0A 1K0, tel. 613 822 0734         |

Response:

Please accept my apologies for the previous message – it appears there is some problem with my service provider. I am looking at what woule be involved in braiding my own fly lines from mono for salt water/suf type situations. As far as I can determine, getting the weight of the line itself right is one of the major obstacles (to ensure that the line is balanced to the rod, but what other problems am i likely to come up against? Does anyone else have any experience in this area? TIA,    Vic

Hi Vic, I experimented along these lines ( pardon the pun ! ) for quite a while. Practically None of the results were satistactory. It was very complex and time consuming, and I could hardly cast the results.  The best result was with braided terylene cord. I unravelled this and plaited the end down to a taper.  It was a terrible mess about but it works OK. It also floats of itself without dressing etc. In the meantime I reckon one is better off buying a line than trying to make one. The experiments with mono just cost me a lot of time for nothing really. There is also some braided cord available which I think is courlene, which gave fairly good results, I am still playing about with this. Hope this helps. Tight lines ! Mike Connor

Response:

Please accept my apologies for the previous message – it appears there is some problem with my service provider. I am looking at what woule be involved in braiding my own fly lines from mono for salt water/suf type situations. As far as I can determine, getting the weight of the line itself right is one of the major obstacles (to ensure that the line is balanced to the rod, but what other problems am i likely to come up against? Does anyone else have any experience in this area? TIA,     Vic

Response:

Question:

<<If you smoke after flyfishing you’re doing it too fast… It’s ok to smoke after sex. But if sex is a pain in the ass, you are doing it wrong. Dave L.

Response:

<<If you smoke after flyfishing you’re doing it too fast… It’s ok to smoke after sex. But if sex is a pain in the ass, you are doing it wrong. Dave L.

    After sex is ok, during sex is another thing entirely.                                                       John Popp                                                   in Sanford Fl.

Response:

If you smoke during sex you’re definitely doing it too fast! — Regards Peter (Please also reply by email, my server "loses" posts. Remove nospam to email) – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – <<If you smoke after flyfishing you’re doing it too fast… It’s ok to smoke after sex. But if sex is a pain in the ass, you are doing it wrong. Dave L.    After sex is ok, during sex is another thing entirely.                                                      John Popp                                                  in Sanford Fl.

Response:

To be correctly turned out, a cigar is almost mandatory. Without the contamination of the fly by nicotine tainted fingers, ALL the fish that your fly came into contact with would, without exception, be fooled into taking and therefore caught. This would cause havoc, especially amongst the catch and kill anglers who would have to go home after only two or three minutes fishing. Streams, rivers and lakes would be denuded of fish, tackle manufacturers and fly tying businesses would go out of business, chaos would ensue! Do your duty Scott. Go and buy at least two packets of the cheapest and foulest smelling cigars you can find and protect our sport, fish and rivers.

Plus, after having the fish shred every single fly you’ve got in your box you can take the butt end of that stogie, jam a hook through it, and catch One More For The Road. Not to mention their use as a mosquito, fly, and fisherman repellant. — Bob Jarvis Mail address hacked to foil spammers!

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – What’s the deal here with the cigaraettes and fishing. Is this some find of fishing trick I’m not aware of? Just curious. Hi All, I would say that a very small percentage of fly fisher persons smoke cigarettes. I think I would know as I can smell it on anyone that walks in my store and very few do. Most fly fisherman seem to be fairly intelligent and probably realize that if they want to live a long time they should not smoke cigarettes. Puffin’ on a cigar at stream side once and a while would kill you. Sorry if my observations has offended anyone. Bill Kiene Kiene’s Fly Shop Sacramento,CA,USA 800/4000FLY www.kiene.com

Not me Bill, I totally agree….a pack and a half a day smoker, I quit after 20 yrs of that. Within 6 months, cigarette smoke and *especially* cigar smoke sickened me. I have been known to get up and move (or leave) a restaurant due to somebody lighting up at the next table. (this was before the anti-smoking laws went into effect) The experience astream is so much more enjoyable without clouds of toxin interfering with the clean air. Frank Church Elkhart, IN

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Not me Bill, I totally agree….a pack and a half a day smoker, I quit after 20 yrs of that. Within 6 months, cigarette smoke and *especially* cigar smoke sickened me.

Interesting. I had smoked for 30yrs (most of them 2+ packs/day) when I quit 5yrs ago. I find that my sense of smell has vastly improved but 2nd hand smoke doesn’t bother me any more now than it did, in fact I will move into the smoking section of a resteraunt just to get away from screaming kids. I never did much like smelling cigars even then, though<g. — Charlie…

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Only when you can get one to light… "FW" – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – What’s the deal here with the cigaraettes and fishing. Is this some find of fishing trick I’m not aware of? Perhaps…but I’ve found a better "trick".  My daughter purchased a nice flask to carry in my vest.  I fill it with a bit of alcoholic beverage and, when fishing is really slow, I sip away at my flask.  I don’t catch any more fish than I did before, but the slow times seem more enjoyable Barry

Response:

Only when you can get one to light…

More than a little truth in this! Wet fingers and dry cigarettes are not a good combination.  I used to have trouble lighting my pipe having just filled it when my hands were wet. I’ve *had* to give up my beloved pipe on what turned out to be unfounded medical advice. — Bill

Response:

Hi All, I would say that a very small percentage of fly fisher persons smoke cigarettes. I think I would know as I can smell it on anyone that walks in my store and very few do. Most fly fisherman seem to be fairly intelligent and probably realize that if they want to live a long time they should not smoke cigarettes. Puffin’ on a cigar at stream side once and a while would kill you. Sorry if my observations has offended anyone. Bill Kiene

______ Doesn’t offend me or many, many others here at all Bill.  For me?  I simply won’t allow anyone near my family or on my property that wants to use any kind of tobacco products.  I detest it so.  It is a filthy, selfish, arrogant, poisoning, deadly, habit.  More often than not, people who smoke are selfish but worse yet, they are 100% inconsiderate of others.  Not only is the secondary smoke offensive, just their visual presence is disgusting.  I can’t even stand to look at anyone that is smoking.  It makes me want to rip the cigarette out of their face and then slap them silly.  But I know this might be a little unreasonable and others may think I would be over reacting a bit.  I suppose everyone would be right regarding this fantasy.  I only wonder if others are so inclined and are just too shy to tell those who are smoking in their presence to kindly stop it in an other than an asking tone.     No one fishes with me that smokes.  I can’t even stand to see anyone do it even from a distance.  Absolutely drives me ballistic because the habit has killed old friends of mine.  I really like people who DON’T smoke.  I like the fact that in a parking area and along the stream I don’t have to look at thrown away cigarettes, their packages, or cigar bands or butts or whatever.  People who throw these items on the ground are ignorant ninkapoops.  People who have ‘the need’ to smoke are weak, undisciplined, selfish and they don’t regard the health risk to  others like their own wives, and will smoke in the house even if children live there.  A child can’t keep a man of great size from smoking in the same room, but I sure don’t mind telling the same dude to stop it or get lost if they get near me or my friends.   It is a pathetic state of affairs. A single puff of smoke across a thirty or forty foot room will put my wife into the hospital fighting for her life.  It will literally cost me thousands of dollars.  It shuts her breathing down.  Smoking does affect others in anyone’s family that DON’T Smoke.  Anyone that smokes inside their home where another doesn’t smoke, is a bully.  I especially detest women who smoke.  If people want to go behind the barn out of my sight and smoke . . . I suppose that might be all right as long as they didn’t throw their butts down into the pig sty and get that dirty.  I particularly am concerned about highly intelligent hogs having to deal with addicts that smoke.  These substance abusers are not strong enough to control their own lives. They should not be allowed to influence others.  If I had a customer who isn’t smoking or doesn’t smoke browsing in my shop I sure as heck won’t allow anyone else in the area to do it. Bill?  If you are man enough to put a big NO SMOKING Signs all over your store, I’ll send all my non-smoking friends over to your place. Besides.  Who likes to handle money tainted with nicotine anyway?  We burn any we get.  How about you? yack! Mr. G. "Ah?  You’re not going to light that right now are you?" "Excuse me, could you wait until I leave before lighting that up?" "Don’t light that up in my presence please.  It will make me sick." "When did you start smoking, may I ask, before doing so now – here?" "My God man!  I didn’t know you were a smoker!" Or if in a vehicle and they sneak aboard before everyone realizes we have a smoker passenger . . . we simply pull over to the side of the road and say, "You must refrain from smoking during this entire trip or get out right now."  (with a smile, of course) ______ OTHER WAYS OF CONTROLLING SMOKERS ARE ENCOURAGED TO ADD THEM HERE ______ 1)   As you said Bill.  Sorry if my observations has offended anyone.

Response:

A couple of years ago, I caught a 3 1/2 lb’er at a small stillwater called ‘Northbank’ near Peterborough (UK).  When I spooned the fish, all I found was a cigarette butt (close, but no cigar).  Perhaps some of our fish are acquiring the taste?

 Robert Scott replies: < .<<..and I’ve caught a nice Lake George, NY Landlocked Salmon whose stomach contained a cigarette butt AND a foil gum wrapper.  Perhaps he wanted to freshen his breath after the smoke? I can understand a trout taking a cigarette butt (with a filter).  There is a nymph called the "Strawman" that is heavily packed spun deer hair. You Gink it up (George’s stuff can be used as a verb too) and it is supposed to represent a caddis case.  It looks just like a cigarette filter.   Tough fly to fish, however, for nothing will go near it if there is even the slightest bit of drag (micro-drag?).  But if you can get it totally drag free, they smash it.  It is an excellent fly to dapple with. I smoked for 40 years.  I was up to 4 packs/day (3 cartons a week).  My doc figured out I was smoking a cigarette every 11 minutes (if I slept 8 hours/day).  I’ve been off the damn things for 6 years now and every-thing smells great. Dave LaCourse

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Mr. G You are a very sick man, I hope the doctors are kind to you when they take you away. PS, don’t even think of "slapping people silly" unless you are Evander Holyfield, you might get hurt. Are you really a control freak or is this just a troll? — Regards Peter (Please also reply by email, my server "loses" posts. Remove nospam to email)

  – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -______ Doesn’t offend me or many, many others here at all Bill.  For me?  I simply won’t allow anyone near my family or on my property that wants to use any kind of tobacco products.  I detest it so.  It is a filthy, selfish, arrogant, poisoning, deadly, habit.  More often than not, people who smoke are selfish but worse yet, they are 100% inconsiderate of others.  Not only is the secondary smoke offensive, just their visual presence is disgusting.  I can’t even stand to look at anyone that is smoking.  It makes me want to rip the cigarette out of their face and then slap them silly.  But I know this might be a little unreasonable and others may think I would be over reacting a bit.  I suppose everyone would be right regarding this fantasy.  I only wonder if others are so inclined and are just too shy to tell those who are smoking in their presence to kindly stop it in an other than an asking tone. No one fishes with me that smokes.  I can’t even stand to see anyone do it even from a distance.  Absolutely drives me ballistic because the habit has killed old friends of mine.  I really like people who DON’T smoke.  I like the fact that in a parking area and along the stream I don’t have to look at thrown away cigarettes, their packages, or cigar bands or butts or whatever.  People who throw these items on the ground are ignorant ninkapoops.  People who have ‘the need’ to smoke are weak, undisciplined, selfish and they don’t regard the health risk to  others like their own wives, and will smoke in the house even if children live there.  A child can’t keep a man of great size from smoking in the same room, but I sure don’t mind telling the same dude to stop it or get lost if they get near me or my friends. It is a pathetic state of affairs. A single puff of smoke across a thirty or forty foot room will put my wife into the hospital fighting for her life.  It will literally cost me thousands of dollars.  It shuts her breathing down.  Smoking does affect others in anyone’s family that DON’T Smoke.  Anyone that smokes inside their home where another doesn’t smoke, is a bully.  I especially detest women who smoke.  If people want to go behind the barn out of my sight and smoke . . . I suppose that might be all right as long as they didn’t throw their butts down into the pig sty and get that dirty.  I particularly am concerned about highly intelligent hogs having to deal with addicts that smoke.  These substance abusers are not strong enough to control their own lives. They should not be allowed to influence others.  If I had a customer who isn’t smoking or doesn’t smoke browsing in my shop I sure as heck won’t allow anyone else in the area to do it. Bill?  If you are man enough to put a big NO SMOKING Signs all over your store, I’ll send all my non-smoking friends over to your place. Besides.  Who likes to handle money tainted with nicotine anyway?  We burn any we get.  How about you? yack! Mr. G. "Ah?  You’re not going to light that right now are you?" "Excuse me, could you wait until I leave before lighting that up?" "Don’t light that up in my presence please.  It will make me sick." "When did you start smoking, may I ask, before doing so now – here?" "My God man!  I didn’t know you were a smoker!" Or if in a vehicle and they sneak aboard before everyone realizes we have a smoker passenger . . . we simply pull over to the side of the road and say, "You must refrain from smoking during this entire trip or get out right now."  (with a smile, of course) ______ OTHER WAYS OF CONTROLLING SMOKERS ARE ENCOURAGED TO ADD THEM HERE ______ 1) As you said Bill.  Sorry if my observations has offended anyone.

Response:

______ I admit that I am trolling a bit with the below post, but my heart screams when I see a friend of mine smoking. George – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – ______ Doesn’t offend me or many, many others here at all Bill.  For me?  I simply won’t allow anyone near my family or on my property that wants to use any kind of tobacco products.  I detest it so.  It is a filthy, selfish, arrogant, poisoning, deadly, habit.  More often than not, people who smoke are selfish but worse yet, they are 100% inconsiderate of others.  Not only is the secondary smoke offensive, just their visual presence is disgusting.  I can’t even stand to look at anyone that is smoking.  It makes me want to rip the cigarette out of their face and then slap them silly.  But I know this might be a little unreasonable and others may think I would be over reacting a bit.  I suppose everyone would be right regarding this fantasy.  I only wonder if others are so inclined and are just too shy to tell those who are smoking in their presence to kindly stop it in an other than an asking tone. No one fishes with me that smokes.  I can’t even stand to see anyone do it even from a distance.  Absolutely drives me ballistic because the habit has killed old friends of mine.  I really like people who DON’T smoke.  I like the fact that in a parking area and along the stream I don’t have to look at thrown away cigarettes, their packages, or cigar bands or butts or whatever.  People who throw these items on the ground are ignorant ninkapoops.  People who have ‘the need’ to smoke are weak, undisciplined, selfish and they don’t regard the health risk to  others like their own wives, and will smoke in the house even if children live there.  A child can’t keep a man of great size from smoking in the same room, but I sure don’t mind telling the same dude to stop it or get lost if they get near me or my friends. It is a pathetic state of affairs. A single puff of smoke across a thirty or forty foot room will put my wife into the hospital fighting for her life.  It will literally cost me thousands of dollars.  It shuts her breathing down.  Smoking does affect others in anyone’s family that DON’T Smoke.  Anyone that smokes inside their home where another doesn’t smoke, is a bully.  I especially detest women who smoke.  If people want to go behind the barn out of my sight and smoke . . . I suppose that might be all right as long as they didn’t throw their butts down into the pig sty and get that dirty.  I particularly am concerned about highly intelligent hogs having to deal with addicts that smoke.  These substance abusers are not strong enough to control their own lives. They should not be allowed to influence others.  If I had a customer who isn’t smoking or doesn’t smoke browsing in my shop I sure as heck won’t allow anyone else in the area to do it. Bill?  If you are man enough to put a big NO SMOKING Signs all over your store, I’ll send all my non-smoking friends over to your place. Besides.  Who likes to handle money tainted with nicotine anyway?  We burn any we get.  How about you? yack! Mr. G. "Ah?  You’re not going to light that right now are you?" "Excuse me, could you wait until I leave before lighting that up?" "Don’t light that up in my presence please.  It will make me sick." "When did you start smoking, may I ask, before doing so now – here?" "My God man!  I didn’t know you were a smoker!" Or if in a vehicle and they sneak aboard before everyone realizes we have a smoker passenger . . . we simply pull over to the side of the road and say, "You must refrain from smoking during this entire trip or get out right now."  (with a smile, of course) ______ OTHER WAYS OF CONTROLLING SMOKERS ARE ENCOURAGED TO ADD THEM HERE ______ 1) As you said Bill.  Sorry if my observations has offended anyone.

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To be correctly turned out, a cigar is almost mandatory. Without the contamination of the fly by nicotine tainted fingers, ALL the fish that your fly came into contact with would, without exception, be fooled into taking and therefore caught. This would cause havoc, especially amongst the catch and kill anglers who would have to go home after only two or three minutes fishing. Streams, rivers and lakes would be denuded of fish, tackle manufacturers and fly tying businesses would go out of business, chaos would ensue! Do your duty Scott. Go and buy at least two packets of the cheapest and foulest smelling cigars you can find and protect our sport, fish and rivers. — Regards Peter (Please also reply by email, my server "loses" posts. Remove nospam to email) – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – What’s the deal here with the cigaraettes and fishing. Is this some find of fishing trick I’m not aware of? Just curious.

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I found was a cigarette butt (close, but no cigar)

Tell us was it a Passing Cloud, I hope not, otherwise you know that means – someones been over here trying to take OUR fish — Bill

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To be correctly turned out, a cigar is almost mandatory.

Let us take a broader view!  Consider this – whenever I smell a cigar I think of Christmas.  Who the Hell wants to think of Christmas during the fishing season? — Bill

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If you smoke after flyfishing you’re doing it too fast… — TimW – Halfordian Golfer Guilt replaced the creel…

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What’s the deal here with the cigaraettes and fishing. Is this some find of fishing trick I’m not aware of?

Perhaps…but I’ve found a better "trick".  My daughter purchased a nice flask to carry in my vest.  I fill it with a bit of alcoholic beverage and, when fishing is really slow, I sip away at my flask.  I don’t catch any more fish than I did before, but the slow times seem more enjoyable Barry

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Vinnies smokes from dawn to dusk – I just wish it was tobacco….. :0) JE

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Cigars not cigarettes. I’ve often been sickened on a lake when a buddy lights one up 50 yards away. They say it drives off insects. I’ve never actually seen a smoker catch a fish however. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – What’s the deal here with the cigaraettes and fishing. Is this some find of fishing trick I’m not aware of? Just curious.

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A couple of years ago, I caught a 3 1/2 lb’er at a small stillwater called ‘Northbank’ near Peterborough (UK).  When I spooned the fish, all I found was a cigarette butt (close, but no cigar).  Perhaps some of our fish are acquiring the taste?

…and I’ve caught a nice Lake George, NY Landlocked Salmon whose stomach contained a cigarette butt AND a foil gum wrapper.  Perhaps he wanted to freshen his breath after the smoke? But to the point of the thread…   I am a reformed smoker; I quit five years ago.   BUT, when I’m on my annual spring striper pilgrimage to Cape Cod, I smoke.   Two weeks later, when I get home, no more smoking.  (Same thing during a duck hunting vacation, too.)   And I remember when I quit, the times I wanted a smoke the most was when I was standing knee-deep in the Battenkill.  Most people who quit say they want one the worst after a meal, or when having a beer.  Not me.  I wanted one when I was fishing… and I don’t even remember ever smoking while I was fishing during my smoking years.  Funny. Bob Scott

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What’s the deal here with the cigaraettes and fishing. Is this some find of fishing trick I’m not aware of? Just curious.

Hi All, I would say that a very small percentage of fly fisher persons smoke cigarettes. I think I would know as I can smell it on anyone that walks in my store and very few do. Most fly fisherman seem to be fairly intelligent and probably realize that if they want to live a long time they should not smoke cigarettes. Puffin’ on a cigar at stream side once and a while would kill you. Sorry if my observations has offended anyone. Bill Kiene Kiene’s Fly Shop Sacramento,CA,USA 800/4000FLY www.kiene.com

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Scott  No they don’t. But a cigar or a pipe helps to keep  the bugs off you while on the water. Or  so I have been told. As I smoke a pipe I find it dose  work  for me most of  the time.   I don’t know what I will do next week on vacation, the smokeing lamp is out in  the northern part of Michigan.  Tight lines

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To be correctly turned out, a cigar is almost mandatory. Without the contamination of the fly by nicotine tainted fingers, ALL the fish that your fly came into contact with would, without exception, be fooled into taking and therefore caught. This would cause havoc, especially amongst the catch and kill anglers who would have to go home after only two or three minutes fishing. Streams, rivers and lakes would be denuded of fish, tackle manufacturers and fly tying businesses would go out of business, chaos would ensue! Do your duty Scott. Go and buy at least two packets of the cheapest and foulest smelling cigars you can find and protect our sport, fish and rivers. —

A couple of years ago, I caught a 3 1/2 lb’er at a small stillwater called ‘Northbank’ near Peterborough (UK).  When I spooned the fish, all I found was a cigarette butt (close, but no cigar).  Perhaps some of our fish are acquiring the taste? Tight lungs, — Stuart Nuttall (Replace ‘nospam’ with ‘nuttll’ to reply by e-mail)

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What’s the deal here with the cigaraettes and fishing. Is this some find of fishing trick I’m not aware of? Just curious.

Response:

What’s the deal here with the cigaraettes and fishing. Is this some find of fishing trick I’m not aware of? Just curious.

     Caught us, Yes it was a secret, like getting a waitress to bring your meal after ordering, like spoting an 8 point white tail, or in the fishermans case the drag squealing with the strongest hit you’ve ever known in an otherwise fishless day. It always happens (in the last two cases) when the rod/rifle is cradled in the crook of the arm while you light up before heading home. IT’S THE RULE!                                                         John Popp                                                     in Sanford Fl.

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Question:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Pleats Dockers Faggots Gierach Orvis Ralph, Dave, Ken, John K, lil ol me Catch & Release TU Money People who don’t contribute enuff to ROFF ROFF Flyfishing I gotta wonder what you do like, and why you spend so much time here? I also gotta wonder if the reason for your break from here was because that pleated pants east coast faggot asshole John K wouldn’t let you play on company time?

Normally I would not respond to this sort of taunting,  but I like you because you are from Kansas. I have been gone becaue my mother died very suddenly and I am crushed. — TimW Halfordian Golfer

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Pleats Dockers Faggots Gierach Orvis Ralph, Dave, Ken, John K, lil ol me Catch & Release TU Money People who don’t contribute enuff to ROFF ROFF Flyfishing I gotta wonder what you do like, and why you spend so much time here? I also gotta wonder if the reason for your break from here was because that  pleated pants east coast faggot asshole John K wouldn’t let you play on  company time? Back to work.. . John Nesselrode Shawnee, KS

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Pleats Dockers Faggots Gierach Orvis Ralph, Dave, Ken, John K, lil ol me Catch & Release TU Money People who don’t contribute enuff to ROFF

People who do contribute, but have the gall to disagree with him. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – ROFF Flyfishing I gotta wonder what you do like, and why you spend so much time here? I also gotta wonder if the reason for your break from here was because that  pleated pants east coast faggot asshole John K wouldn’t let you play on  company time? Back to work.. . John Nesselrode Shawnee, KS

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Question:

This has been a real useful thread so far. How about lines for a minute?  I have a bass bug taper floating line but want to get a sink tip (I guess) for rivers like the James and Susquehanna.   What would y’all recommend for getting to the bottom?  Thanks for your ideas. Kurt

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I’m primarily a smallmouth fisherman on the Potomac River. I generally use either a 6-weight or an 8-weight.  The Potomac, like the Delaware and Susquehanna, is a wide, often windy river. I spend much of my time throwing l-o-n-g casts (often all the way down to my backing) with the aid of a good double haul. I also generally use big Clouser minnows. I find the 8-weight is ideal for these conditions, especially when it’s windy. Having said that, however, I also enjoy using my 6-weight, especially on calmer days when fishing dries or small nymphs. On smaller rivers like the Shenandoah, I use my 6-weight almost exclusively. Scott Wilkinson

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I’ll see all those fives and sixes and raise an eight– The susky is the least delicate smallie river I know of.  I regularly fish from the Chemung to the New and I have a different view.  I tie and fish flies that range from large to huge for smallmouth to muskies, and the susky is the largest zone.  My best fish have come on very large poppers (a whole 1/2" banger-foam cylinder’s worth and two large worm rattles) and the Butch Minnow, which is a lead-eyed hair-bodied diving. . .thing. . .we use around here a lot.  I fish big, and that seems to work well in the susquehanna.  So I fish an 8 mainly, and it’s not pretty all the time, I admit it. As for lines:  I like the Wulff triangle bug tapers, most weight-forward thing I can find; with my big guns (8wt PM10 and Scott STS) I will line-up a notch to the 9-wt.  I don’t recommend this; it has disqualified me from membership in most flyfishing clubs and gotten me frowns in the orvis shop, but so has tying and fishing flies that cast reasonably well on a baitcaster.  I do move a fair number of the higher echelon of fish in the James, New, Potomac, ‘Doah, and Susquehanna, and people also give me a wide berth on the river. In short:  there’s a "big" faction out here, too. Dave

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- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Joe Ellis writes: A seven weight for smallmouth?? Rod/line weight is determined more by the size fly you’re using and the wind resistance and delicacy of presentation desired, not the size fish you’re after. Exactly. I use a Pac Bay 9′ 6wt rod which really is closer to a 7wt and find it just right for tossing poppers, heavy nymphs, and big streamers for smallmouth. Especially on a big river like the Susquehanna where the occasional long cast is required. I feel like I’m working too hard when I try casting these flies with a 4/5wt rod, and that just leads to a sore arm after awhile. I find it much easier to fish all day with my 6/7wt than struggle with the 4/5. But I tend to use chunky flies for smallies, so that obviously affects my decisions. I guess I should have pointed that out in my original post. Bob Petti

Another alternative is to use the SA 6 weight headstart line on the 4/5.  I do.  The headstart line has such a short belly (23′) and tapers that it short casts very well without overloading the rod. Once you are well into the running line, the total weight of the line in the air is much less than a regular WF 6 F due to its short belly so you are never in danger of oveloading the rod.  With 50′ of line in the air, its total weight is probably no greater than a DT 4.  The short, chunky, heavy belly does a great job on big fat poppers and buggers, yet the 8 foot 4/5 won’t wear your arm out. My 4/5 Diawa is very sensitive to  overloading, a DT 5 F will kill it, but the WF 6 headstart causes no problems, It feels just like a WF 5 or a DT 4.  I regularly cast number 4 wooly buggers over 60′ with it. In fact it has proved to be the best line for the rod. Peter

Response:

This has been a real useful thread so far. How about lines for a minute?  I have a bass bug taper floating line but want to get a sink tip (I guess) for rivers like the James and Susquehanna.   What would y’all recommend for getting to the bottom?  Thanks for your ideas. Kurt

Kurt, I use SA sink tip lines in various sink rates, and another option (less expensive) is the loop to loop Orvis Mini Lead Heads (2 to a package, 12" & 24" length) and their "super instant sink tip system", which are also loop to loop 6′ sections. These are (1) fast sink tip and (2) super fast sink tip. These will set you back about 10 bucks, and do work in getting your bugger down. Of course, in order to use this system you have to go to the loop to loop method, which I happen to like for the ease it affords in changing leaders, and putting on/taking off the aforementioned Lead Heads. Obviously, the weight of the sink tip you use is determined by several factors, current, depth you’re trying to get to, and weight of your streamer (Clouser deep minnow vs unweighted wooley bugger, for example) Using the Orvis system first might give you a better idea of what weight sink tip line you might end up buying, and at considerably less cost. Good luck on your search. Regards, Frank Church Elkhart, IN

Response:

This has been a real useful thread so far. How about lines for a minute?   I have a bass bug taper floating line but want to get a sink tip (I guess) for rivers like the James and Susquehanna.   What would y’all recommend for getting to the bottom?  Thanks for your ideas.

The only sink tip I own is an old Cortland 444SL WF6F/S type IV with a 10 foot tip (man, that’s a mouthful). I really don’t like it much, as it just feels clunky. I’m sure that’s more a result of my casting (poor casting) than the line, but I’ve been thinking of getting a full sinking line or something like a Teeny. Whatever you do (or think), TEST THE LINE before you buy. Most shops should be able to put a line on a reel for you to test cast with. By all means, do so (with a leader and fly). With the premium price on lines these days, make sure you’re getting what you want before you bring it home. Bob Petti

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Anyone out there own or use an Orvis DXR with Anti-Reverse?  I’d appreciate your feedback.  Thanks.

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  I am looking for a fly rod for fishing smallmouth on the Susquehanna   river in Pennsylvania.  What size and weight rod should I be looking   at?  Any suggestions?  Also what should I expect to spend?   Any help is appreciated.  Tim,     I’d  have to agree with the last post recommending that 6 weight rod. That’s a good all rounder. Something like a 8′5" or 9′ rod for a bid river like the Susq. would fit the bill nicely. Your should be able to find a decent rod under $150. I have an Orvis Clearwater, and two Cortland rods, all were under $150, with reel, flyline and backing included. I fish for smallies on the Shenadoah and the Potomac Rivers. Keith in Waterford, VA

Response:

This has been a real useful thread so far. How about lines for a minute?  I have a bass bug taper floating line but want to get a sink tip (I guess) for rivers like the James and Susquehanna.   What would y’all recommend for getting to the bottom?  Thanks for your ideas. Kurt

Kurt,    I fish most with my floating line… My 10 ft sink tip gets very little use. Most of the time a weigthed nymph will get close enough to the bottom to get interest. Smallmouth are aggressive fish and in shallow streams ( most of  my fishing is in 6 ft or less of water)    they will chase the fly if they are interested). A split shot or two can be added if necessary . If you wade fish like I do, and cover several miles in a trip you learn to bring the laast but most  versatile equipment. The floating line also gives you the equipment to fish popper, etc.  Bottom line… I can get my fly near the bottom with my floating line but I can’t really fish near the top with my sink-tip.. And I don’t want to weight myself with excess equipment… that crap gets heavy after a while.    hope that helps !                                                                                             Jody

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As for lines:  I like the Wulff triangle bug tapers, most weight-forward thing I can find; with my big guns (8wt PM10 and Scott STS) I will line-up a notch to the 9-wt.  I don’t recommend this; it has disqualified me from membership in most flyfishing clubs and gotten me frowns in the orvis shop, but so has tying and fishing flies that cast reasonably well on a baitcaster.  I do move a fair number of the higher echelon of fish in the James, New, Potomac, ‘Doah, and Susquehanna, and people also give me a wide berth on the river. In short:  there’s a "big" faction out here, too.

Alright, Dave!  I second your posting. I’m a firm believer in casting flies the size of mice 70+ feet with big rods! What I find amusing is how, in flyfishing circles, there is a perception that the "saltwater guys" who go after bonefish and the like are the only ones who throw long casts with big rods in windy conditions. I might remind some saltwater types that when the wind comes roaring down a wide river valley like the Potomac or Susquehana, conditions can be every bit as harsh as rough day on the ocean! Scott Wilkinson Bethesda, MD

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I am looking for a fly rod for fishing smallmouth on the Susquehanna river in Pennsylvania.  What size and weight rod should I be looking at?  Any suggestions?  Also what should I expect to spend? Any help is appreciated.

Response:

I am looking for a fly rod for fishing smallmouth on the Susquehanna river in Pennsylvania.  What size and weight rod should I be looking at?  Any suggestions?  Also what should I expect to spend? Any help is appreciated.

Tim, while I have fished *almost* exclusively for smallies for some years now, I am by no means an expert on what rod to use, but FWIW, I have used as my #1 smallie rod a 6 wt Sage and starting last year, a 6 wt 4 piece St Croix travel rod. I changed to the St Croix because the Sage is a little faster action than I’m comfortable with. There are those who will tell you to use a 7 wt….that’s fine too, because you will, every now and then, hook into a 5 pounder that’ll give you and your rod a workout. While I have never fished the Susky, I know it to be a fine smallmouth fishery. As to what to expect to spend, it depends on what brand…the the big name rods (Sage, Winston, Scott, etc.) will set you back 400+ bucks. Until you get some experience at this, I would suggest starting lower on the scale with either a St Croix or Redington. These are both in the 100 dollar area, and are fine rods, with a lifetime replacement guarantee. There are, of course, even cheaper rods, Wal-Mart/K-Mart specials, package deals aimed at getting you started, with everything included, reel, line, etc. These are definitely on the low end of the scale, quality-wise, and I question whether this is the best way to go. Spend a little more, get a good quality line, which to me is more important than the reel you use. If you need more info on the St Croix, contact me offline.  Good luck. Regards,

Response:

Tim Engle writes: I am looking for a fly rod for fishing smallmouth on the Susquehanna river in Pennsylvania.  What size and weight rod should I be looking at?  Any suggestions?  Also what should I expect to spend? Any help is appreciated.

I’d suggest a 9′ 7wt. I wouldn’t think you’d need to spend much over a hundred bucks. The St. Croix Imperial or St. Croix Legend series would be just fine. Bob Petti

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Tim Engle writes: I am looking for a fly rod for fishing smallmouth on the Susquehanna river in Pennsylvania.  What size and weight rod should I be looking at?  Any suggestions?  Also what should I expect to spend? Any help is appreciated. I’d suggest a 9′ 7wt. I wouldn’t think you’d need to spend much over a hundred bucks. The St. Croix Imperial or St. Croix Legend series would be just fine.

 I’ll second the St.Croix reccommendation. They’re very good rods at a reasonable price. However… A seven weight for smallmouth?? Rod/line weight is determined more by the size fly you’re using and the wind resistance and delicacy of presentation desired, not the size fish you’re after. If you are planning on using 1/0 heavy Clouser Minnows or big Dahlberg rabbit strip divers, a 7wt MIGHT be becessary… but for all my stream fishing in the southern Ohio/northern Kentucky area a _4wt_ is plenty of rod. I only use my 8wt for largemouth/northern/muskie, when I’m throwing the BIG flies. I still use heavy enough leader that I can land and release a fish quickly, but it’s not necessary to use a telephone pole rod either! <GRIN — Joe Ellis     o/~ The Synthetic Filker o/~ |  TesserAct Studios ()XDarwin(;        Now on the Web at      | Cincinnati, OH 45240 / /~LL~~LL~  http://shell.idt.net/~ellis69 |New Dimensions In Filk! Unsolicited commercial E-mail will be proofread at $25 hr/2 hr min.

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Joe Ellis writes: A seven weight for smallmouth?? Rod/line weight is determined more by the size fly you’re using and the wind resistance and delicacy of presentation desired, not the size fish you’re after.

Exactly. I use a Pac Bay 9′ 6wt rod which really is closer to a 7wt and find it just right for tossing poppers, heavy nymphs, and big streamers for smallmouth. Especially on a big river like the Susquehanna where the occasional long cast is required. I feel like I’m working too hard when I try casting these flies with a 4/5wt rod, and that just leads to a sore arm after awhile. I find it much easier to fish all day with my 6/7wt than struggle with the 4/5. But I tend to use chunky flies for smallies, so that obviously affects my decisions. I guess I should have pointed that out in my original post. Bob Petti

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Joe Ellis writes: A seven weight for smallmouth??

I use a 9′ 6/7 graphite/boron rod.  When I’m out on a trout stream, I use a DT6-F.  For bass and panfish I use a WF7-F or a WF-6 with a sinking tip.  These combinations work quite well.  I’m accustomed to tossing weighted Woolly Buggers, weighted streamers, and hair bugs in sizes 4 to 10. Bob — —– Bob Perkins, Director of Institutional Research and Planning Methodist College Fayetteville, NC  28311                          Office: 910-630-7037

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- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Joe Ellis writes: A seven weight for smallmouth?? Rod/line weight is determined more by the size fly you’re using and the wind resistance and delicacy of presentation desired, not the size fish you’re after. Exactly. I use a Pac Bay 9′ 6wt rod which really is closer to a 7wt and find it just right for tossing poppers, heavy nymphs, and big streamers for smallmouth. Especially on a big river like the Susquehanna where the occasional long cast is required. I feel like I’m working too hard when I try casting these flies with a 4/5wt rod, and that just leads to a sore arm after awhile. I find it much easier to fish all day with my 6/7wt than struggle with the 4/5. But I tend to use chunky flies for smallies, so that obviously affects my decisions. I guess I should have pointed that out in my original post. Bob Petti

Bob, when I first started flyrodding, it was the largemouth I was homing in on, and after checking out those neat hairbugs with all the feathers, rubber legs, etc. I thought that was what was required to get ‘em to hit on the surface. Some years of flailing those bulky bugs with an 8 wt produced bass, but at the end of the day, my arm/wrist was tired from throwing those danged puffballs. Have since learned from others(in this to get a hit. So I’ve stepped down to a 6 wt and now throw basically "clean" bugs, no tail feathers, and a cleaner, smaller profile. As a matter of fact, the Sneaky Pete is nothing more than a bullet shaped head with rubber legs and a tad of hackle, and it has been one of my most successful lures at getting smallmouth to hit. (with a vengence, I might add!) I still have the bulky hairbugs, but they reside in the tackle bag and almost never get used now. Regards,

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Frank Church writes: So I’ve stepped down to a 6 wt and now throw basically "clean" bugs, no tail feathers, and a cleaner, smaller profile.

Good point, Frank. My problem with lighter rods is casting heavy flies like big buggers and clousers. I find it much easier to control the cast with a heavier line. Most of my smallmouth fishing is done with weighted streamers and "bottom bouncers", so I guess that dictates my choice of tackle. However, I’ve been known to visit a few small creeks with my little 8 footer and cast tiny clousers and unweighted marabou streamers and bucktails for the "dinks". That can make for an enjoyable evening. Lord knows there are many many more 6 inch bass in the streams that 16 inchers. Targetting the small guys and selecting appropriate tackle and flies can be great fun. Bob Petti

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I am looking for a fly rod for fishing smallmouth on the Susquehanna river in Pennsylvania.  What size and weight rod should I be looking at?  Any suggestions?  Also what should I expect to spend? Any help is appreciated.

Tim,    I have been haunting the Delaware ( probably the best wadeable smallie stream in the US) for 3 decades armed with a flyrod ….. perhaps 1000 trips now if I had to count with 95 % of them wet wading.. I have three rods for this type of fishing…. an old fenwick graphite wt 5  ( for caddis fly hatches) and a wt 6  for pencil poppers and a wt 7 for heavier stuff like weighted crayfish imitations, wooly buggers, etc. I also use my wt 7 for the big river stripers encountered in the late spring , especially towards evening . This way I can fish for both species with one rod. I lived many years with a Fenwick HMG graphite (Wt 5 and wt 7) with the 9 ft wt 7 my standard outfit and have been and still am very happy with those rods ( my son still uses them) Granted they are old technology and slower than the very fast modern rods but since I learned to flycast with fiberglass their slower action suit me. I think they cost about $ 150 bucks now.. I currently fish at  a very fast scott but this is my shad rod ( something you may also want to consider) – a scott sts  9 ft wt 6 as well as  a Sage rpl+ 9.5 ft wt 7. I absolutely love my Sage  because it feesl like an extremely improved fenwick (action wise, which it had replaced) except it can effortlessly  cast 70 feet when necessary. If you had ~ $ 400 I would recommend the wt 6 or wt 7 sage RPL+ 9-9.5 ft long. I am currently entertaining the idea of a Sage RPL+ 9 ft wt 4 or lighter   for really light smallie fishing…                                                   Jody

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Question:

I want to get into fly fishing in the surf off of Southern California. Plan to use an 8 wt…..what is a good line to use? I was thinking something like the Teeny T-300….any advice? Thanks in advance.

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I want to get into fly fishing in the surf off of Southern California. Plan to use an 8 wt…..what is a good line to use? I was thinking something like the Teeny T-300….any advice? Thanks in advance.

The T-300 is a great line.  I have a HiD "big game" Triangle Taper that I like alot.  The biggest issue is that as a beginner you will probably fish better with a sinktip, as controlling a full sinking line in the surf is not exactly easy.  It gets under your boots and around your legs much more frequently, and until you learn to handle it you are out of touch with your flies alot of the time.  If you already own the T-300 just learn to use it.  But if you also own a 13 to 20 foot high speed sinktip, you might want to use that until you get better at line handling. Phil

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I want to get into fly fishing in the surf off of Southern California. Plan to use an 8 wt…..what is a good line to use? I was thinking something like the Teeny T-300….any advice? Thanks in advance.

YOU WILL DO WELL with shooting heads.  In fact, better. Mr. G.

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that is what I call an excellent response. Thank you for being specific about lines and how to. bill

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that is what I call an excellent response. Thank you for being specific about lines and how to. bill

thorough indeed, but it is just one side of a very complex story.  If we are talking short (30 to 45 foot) casts PARALLEL to shore, which is what most beginners and many old timers will be doing in California (North and South), I would still contend that a beginner would be better served with a sinktip than a full sinking line or shooting taper.  As I stated earlier, I rely on full sinking lines, preferring them to Shooting Tapers, since changing line density isn’t important (fastest sink you have is all you need), and that and distance are the only advantages of the shooting taper over a full sinking line.  Line handling problems, the inability to make aerial mends, and finger cuts are all good arguments for avoiding shooting heads whenever possible.  By the way I do use shooting heads extensively for lakes, steelhead, shad, Jetties, rare occasions when I’m casting straight out, and rocky coastal shoreline so I don’t have a problem with them, I just restrict them to where they really shine.  I especially stand by my recommendation to stick with what you already own, rather than run out and buy the new rage thing. Phil

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Perhaps I should explain myself a little better: thorough indeed, but it is just one side of a very complex story.  If we are talking short (30 to 45 foot) casts PARALLEL to shore, which is what most beginners and many old timers will be doing in California (North and South), I would still contend that a beginner would be better served with a sinktip than a full sinking line or shooting taper.

The biggest reason for using a lead head is precisely because so much of the casting is PARALLEL to shore.  When casting parallel to shore you are putting the greatest amount of line against the wave action of the surf.  This is like casting directly across a current.  The current (wave action in the surf) exihibits the greatest influence on the line pushing it sideways and causing a belly in the line.  And of course the waves not only go in, they also ebb back out.  Little time is spent without motion in the surf. Floating line is the fattest and most susceptible to this action.  The good news is you can mend it, the bad news is you can’t mend it fast enough or well enough to compensate satisfactorily for the action unless there is a lot of time between waves.  The sink-tip is only slightly better because at least part of it sinks into the strike zone (sometimes as shallow as 1 1/2 ft, sometimes as deep as 6 to 8 feet or more).  The full sinking line sinks along the entire line which prohibits mending but gets the fly down better than the other two.  The fastest sinking line you have will work the best.   It will be the thinnest and least susceptible to the movement of the surf and you have to remember that salt water is more bouyant than freshwater.  Sinking lines don’t sink as fast in the salt.   The lead head allows you to use 300+ grains of weight in 24 ft of line (as opposed to ~210 grains for 30 feet an 8 wt.) and is much thinner than any sinking line.  More weight and less surface area allows the line to get down quicker and stay in the zone longer especially when casting PARALLEL to shore.  Again, a casting basket makes a world of difference in the frustration factor. Now the news about the expense of one of these lines is that you can make your own for less than $10 or buy one for $12 to $14.  Amnesia for a shooting line will set you back around $3.50.  If you opt for the flat beam running line, it will cost you $7. No more than $21 at the most.   If you don’t want to invest in an extra spool and backing, just remove your floating line from your current 8 or 9 wt. rig and tie on the running line and shooting head.   Probably won’t break the bank and will save you the frustration I went through using all of the lines I have mentioned. As I stated earlier, I rely on full sinking lines, preferring them to Shooting Tapers, since changing line density isn’t important (fastest sink you have is all you need), and that and distance are the only advantages of the shooting taper over a full sinking line.

Even forgetting about the distance, the comparison is not even close.  Even the fastest sinking full line won’t sink or track as well as the lead head.  Their diameter is too large and their weight too little. Bear in mind that the first 30 feet of an 8 wt. floating line weighs exactly the same as the first 30 feet of an 8 wt. type V sinking line.  Higher density lines just have the same weight in less space.  That’s what *density* is all about. Line handling problems,

Casting basket eases the tangle problem and will still keep your fly in the zone longer than full sinking lines even with the occaisional tangle. the inability to make aerial mends, and finger cuts are all good arguments for avoiding shooting heads whenever possible.

Type of line has *nothing* to do with aerial mends.  How and where you move the tip of the rod *after* you make the stop on the forward cast determines where the aerial mend goes, not whether or not it is a full sinking line or a shooting head.  "Aerial mend" means repositioning the the line *while* it is in the air. Finger cuts can be avoided by using saltwater tape or stripping guards on your stripping fingers.  White adhesive tape works OK if you can’t find the specific saltwater stuff.  I also use tape or stripping guards when using a floating line for bonefish.  Part of the problem with line cuts comes from the abrasive nature of the salt in the water.  The thinner running line does aggravate it, but the greater fishing success helps compensate for this. *SNIP* I especially stand by my recommendation to stick with what you already own, rather than run out and buy the new rage thing.

Using whatever you can absolutely beats not fishing, but using the right tool for the job makes a big difference.   Lead core lines have been around longer than modern fly lines, so I wouldn’t call them the "new rage thing".  Casting is the biggest problem most people have with lead heads and if you like I will give some suggestions in another post because this one is already way too long. I don’t mean to sound rude, but I see no reason why someone should go through all the hoops I did to arrive at this solution.  Nonetheless, do whatever you like to do, because you are the only one you have to please to enjoy this sport and you may like to use a different method.  I just think you should give this a try.                                        Hope this clarifies my statements a bit,                                                     Dan Dan Gracia Orvis West Coast Fly Fishing Schools

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I want to get into fly fishing in the surf off of Southern California. Plan to use an 8 wt…..what is a good line to use? I was thinking something like the Teeny T-300….any advice? Thanks in advance.

Up in N. Cal one of the most popular lines for surf fishing is a lead head. This sounds scary, but actually works really well.  You can make your own or buy one from Orvis for $14.  I snagged one of the Orvis heads and then cut it back from 30 ft. to 24 ft. and put a loop on the end I cut off.  Works well on my 8 wt.  I use amnesia for the running line, but am going to try the flat beam running line ($7) that we just got in at the Orvis SF store.  Casting basket is a big help to control the running line.   The reason this works so well is that the lead core tracks far better than anything else in the surf.  Floating lines are real tough because the floating section gets whipped back and forth by the wave action so badly.  Same thing with sink tips.  Sometimes the full sinking lines work ok, but usually their cross-section is too big and gets pushed around by the waves too.  The thin lead core (I believe this is the 13gr. per foot version) sinks quickly in the more bouyant saltwater and stays in the trough or channel longer than other lines.  More time in the target area means more fish.  Not the most fun to cast, but not bad with some practice and very effective.                       Hope this helps,                               Dan Dan Gracia Orvis West Coast Fly Fishing Schools

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Question:

writes: I want to start tying flies but Im not sure how to get started.

Yeah Jeff, I started tying long ago and my flies were never truely correct. Tails too long, too much hackle, ect…. Then I finally picked up a video called "Tying Western Trout Flies" by Jack Dennis and then I started punching ‘em out! His address is Box 4158, Jackson Hole, Wy. 83001. Ph: 307-733-3253. There are many other good video’s available as well. You need to decide which flies you will use the most and go from there. Also, many fly shops offer classes at night. That’s a good way to meet people who can really help you. Best of luck. Cliff

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writes: I want to start tying flies but Im not sure how to get started. Any tips?                                                 thanks                                                   Jeff

Jeff,  not to be product specific, but there are lots of _kits_ from lots of vendors.  Bass Pro Shops has several all in a different price ranges.  Orvis has two (perhaps more) one just below $100 and one about $120.  These _kits_ are very good ways to start.  As you get better you can replace items for better ones.  The most important item is your vise.   Buy the best one you can afford.  I bought a cheap one and I now regret it.  When I can afford it I want to get a better one. Tight Lines and happy tying,

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I want to start tying flies but Im not sure how to get started. Any tips?                                                 thanks                                                   Jeff

Jeff, 1.  A previous follow-up recommended taking a class — this is certainly the best course.  I’ve taken three or four classes and learned new techniques from each.  A local fly shop or a Trout Unlimited chapter can put you onto a class. There is a Trout Unlimited Home Page which can direct you to a local chapter.   Also you could post a message in one or more of the fly fishing / tying newsgroups or at flyfishing.com.  2.  If a class is not available in your area, then search out an experienced tyer to help you.  He / she can save you lots of frustration and help you with acquiring suitable tools and materials. 3.  Your third alternative (in order of preference) is the purchase of some top notch instructional materials.  There are some excellent books and videos available.  You will probably want to get some books on tying techniques and fly patterns in any case.  A some of the better known authors include: Skip Morris, Dick Talleur, Eric Leiser, Jack Dennis and Randall Kaufman (not to slight any of the other fine writers).  The first three offer books for the beginner. 4.  Beware of kits.  Although some are very good (you might inquire about those) most lack high quality tools and materials.  Quality tools and materials will go a long way towards eliminating frustration and insuring acceptable results. 5.  A final word.  Although the first flies which you tie probably will not approach fly shop quality — fish them anyway!  Even ratty flies catch fish – I should know.  Fish are much less concerned with aesthetics than fishermen. And besides, your flies will improve with practice. Tight Lines, Derek Brown

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Jeff,  not to be product specific, but there are lots of _kits_ from lots of vendors.  Bass Pro Shops has several all in a different price ranges.  Orvis has two (perhaps more) one just below $100 and one about $120.  These _kits_ are very good ways to start.  

I have to jump in here.  Over on rec.outdoors.fishing.fly.tying, this is a frequent discussion topic.  In all cases, kits are thoroughly discouraged.  The common wisdom there suggests buying a core set of good quality tools and the materials to tie two or three flies that you already use from your local fly shop.  Then expand your tools and materials as you go. I have to agree with the advice in another post to contact your local fly fishing club.  There are folks there who just LOVE to teach!  You can learn anything you want by just asking at the club meeting. Tight threads, Charley

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Jeff,  not to be product specific, but there are lots of _kits_ from lots of vendors.  Bass Pro Shops has several all in a different price ranges.  Orvis has two (perhaps more) one just below $100 and one about $120.  These _kits_ are very good ways to start.

I disagree         If I had it to do over again, I would have purchased a good set of tools and gone to a fly shop to get material.  The first flytying kit I got was from  Bass Pro Shop (please everyone forgive me) and the quality of the material  was pathetic.  I could have done much better had I had access to people telling me to just get a set of tool sand feathers else where! Walter D. Whitman

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I would like to point out that a friend of mine has a great video out on fly tying instruction for kids…it’s very funny and informative…and it comes with a kit that might serve a kid starting out as a fly tier…you can call this guy about the video…406-549-4308.

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(BassMan918) writes: I want to start tying flies but Im not sure how to get started. Any tips?

Check out rec.outdoors.fishing.fly.tying — beginner questions are welcome, and a great deal of useful information turns up every week.  – Roger

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writes: I want to start tying flies but Im not sure how to get started. Any tips?

My first fly tying lesson was given to me by alf walker who had me tie a series of wets/nymphs  which were nothing more than a size ten hook tailled with brown hackle, and dubbed with a piece picked from the store carpet, with a hackle collar.  I may still have the original fly which was beautifuly proportioned as he tied it.  My only expenditures were thread, a small indian cape, and a few hooks.  You can tie most patterns down to size 16 whith relative ease, whithout cement, bobins, and vises.  Hackle pliers and scisors are useful for this kind of tying as are half hitches.  This is great fun, and you should have no difficulty tying basic patterns.  I remember walker telling me that I would never find tying so much fun as I then did with all my materials contained for the first few months in a small cardboard box.   Possibly so. Thomas – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text –                                                 thanks                                                   Jeff Jeff,  not to be product specific, but there are lots of _kits_ from lots of vendors.  Bass Pro Shops has several all in a different price ranges.  Orvis has two (perhaps more) one just below $100 and one about $120.  These _kits_ are very good ways to start.  As you get better you can replace items for better ones.  The most important item is your vise.   Buy the best one you can afford.  I bought a cheap one and I now regret it.  When I can afford it I want to get a better one. Tight Lines and happy tying,

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I want to start tying flies but Im not sure how to get started. Any tips?                                                  thanks                                                    Jeff

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For me, taking a class was the way to go.  Simple "tricks" like starting the thread, spinning deer hair, and tying off would have been much tougher for me to pick up out of a book.  If there are any fly fishing shops under "fishing, retail" in the yellow pages, there is a good chance that they give lesseons, or they can direct you to the local fly fishing clubs, many of which will either have a class, or have experienced tyers who would be delighted to teach you.  Maybe other members can direct you to the better videos if neither of the above routes work out. Bill Mack

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For me fly tying is such an integral part of flyfishing, that I would hate to have to buy all of my flies.  It is a great way to keep your fishing nerves under control during those long closed seasons.  Thus it is great that you want to get into it.   Like flyfishing itself you can save yourself a good bit of trouble by having some hands-on training.  A night of classes at a fly shop or even through university extension programs (for example the University of Washington actually has classes in tying and fishing through the experimental college) would be a smart move.  If there are any local fishing clubs or shops around ask if they know anyone who might give you a short tutorial.  Also, definitely buy a vice.  It is possible to tie flies without one, but you will be much more frustated.  A reasonable vice can be purchased for around $30.  It won’t be fancy and you may find it hard for flies smaller than size 18, but it will get you rolling.  Most of the kits mentioned in one of the posts below have vices of this caliber.  Don’t be shy about asking someone to teach you, most of the fly tying books look like bad directions for assembling lint balls.  It is worth the effort, you’ll be hooked as soon as you catch your first fish on your own fly. cheers, Mike – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – writes: I want to start tying flies but Im not sure how to get started. Any tips? My first fly tying lesson was given to me by alf walker who had me tie a series of wets/nymphs  which were nothing more than a size ten hook tailled with brown hackle, and dubbed with a piece picked from the store carpet, with a hackle collar.  I may still have the original fly which was beautifuly proportioned as he tied it.  My only expenditures were thread, a small indian cape, and a few hooks.  You can tie most patterns down to size 16 whith relative ease, whithout cement, bobins, and vises.  Hackle pliers and scisors are useful for this kind of tying as are half hitches.  This is great fun, and you should have no difficulty tying basic patterns.  I remember walker telling me that I would never find tying so much fun as I then did with all my materials contained for the first few months in a small cardboard box.   Possibly so. Thomas                                                 thanks                                                   Jeff Jeff,  not to be product specific, but there are lots of _kits_ from lots of vendors.  Bass Pro Shops has several all in a different price ranges.  Orvis has two (perhaps more) one just below $100 and one about $120.  These _kits_ are very good ways to start.  As you get better you can replace items for better ones.  The most important item is your vise.   Buy the best one you can afford.  I bought a cheap one and I now regret it.  When I can afford it I want to get a better one. Tight Lines and happy tying,

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Question:

I am afraid my original comment might have gotten lost in the lengthy follow up to the Newt Gingrich and the Flyfisherman post. So again, this is for those involved in the original post, or at least those that didn’t know when to quit. Go away. When you are ready to discuss flyfishing, come back. — gp

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I am afraid my original comment might have gotten lost in the lengthy follow up to the Newt Gingrich and the Flyfisherman post. So again, this is for those involved in the original post, or at least those that didn’t know when to quit. Go away. When you are ready to discuss flyfishing, come back.

I find this a strange complaint from one who only 20 minutes earlier contributed to the thread about Newt and the Flyfisherman. Perhaps you folks north of the border have enough rivers or good enough government or businessmen who are sufficiently environmentally sensitive that you needn’t worry about the destruction of habitat including good trout water.  But here in the good old U.S. of A. we have to fight the sonsabitches that would destroy everything for an extra buck or an extra vote (and the Newter expects to get both). I’d rather talk and think about fishing, but if I want to be able to do some good fishing I’ve got to do what I can do to prevent the sonsabitches from having their way. And one of those things is to talk about the problem to get others to think and act effectively about it. Besides, from what I hear about the clearcutting going on in British Columbia, you haven’t got enough of those good things I mentioned at the beginning of the last paragraph. Phil Holt

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Question:

Bob, The Mascoma river flows into and out of Lake Mascoma about 5 miles from Dartmouth.  There are some nice rainbows in there.  There is a fly fishing area below the dam.  In the fall and spring the rainbows run up into the inlet and can be caught on a fly.   In the spring the Warner river has a few fish.  In West Henniker there is some nice special regulation water. I For the last couple years I have gotten some nice browns and rainbows there.  Some of my favorite spots are in the ponds in the White Mountain national forest.  There are some fly fishing only ponds that are beautiful, have some hatches and have some nice brook trout.  The Newfound river below Newfound Lake in Bristol,  NH has rainbows, brookies a few smallmouth and the occasional landlocked salmon.   For some of the best fishing in New England try the Connecticut river in Pittsburg, NH.  There are browns, rainbows, brookies and landlocks that run up out of the lakes for smelt in the spring and to spawn in the fall.   I don’t know anything about fishing in Vermont, but if you want more info about NH send me e-mail. Gerry

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I’m at school at Dartmouth and I’m looking for some fishing in the area.  Any suggestions.  I’m also interested in knowing what is the earliest I can go out and expect catching anything but a cold.  Thanks in advance… Bob Heiser

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