Question:

Segar Grand Max is pretty hot right now.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – i like fluoracorbon material since the fish kant see it.  its expensive but works awsome.  have you ever perchased florocarbon from cabelas?  is it good.

Response:

i like fluoracorbon material since the fish kant see it.  its expensive but works awsome.  have you ever perchased florocarbon from cabelas?  is it good.

Everyone I know whose fishing I respect uses the same old Maxima – reliable, strong, doesn’t get in a twist. LC — Lazarus Cooke

Response:

i like fluoracorbon material since the fish kant see it.

If a tree falls in the forest and nobody is around, will berkeley hear it? (the bishop of Cloyne, not the tackle manufacturer in Iowa) Mu

Response:

<Crap snipped. What you write, is an affront to most people

Question:

  C’mon Waldo, you know about a cowboy and his pony. <g I imagine they can’t wait for winter to roll around every year! <g — Warren Findley Shut up and fish! For Yellowstone Clave info: http://www.geocities.com/troutbum_mt/YNP.html

Response:

Can’t we all just get along?  I do have a good imagination, don’t i?  I just want to discuss fly fishing and the various equipment we spend our hard earned money on. P.s   I no I ain’t no good at gramer uv the inglish langwij. Rob – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Yeah, I know what he is talking about. My feathers aren’t ruffled. Can’t you tell I gave him a "retort" also. I actually visisted that website. But if I wan’t sex humor, I’ll vist the appropriate groups. Rob rob, tis sad, but, well…uhmmm, that’s the only sex rw gets. –waldo ps… you misspelt "wank"

Response:

Chill Rob.  When you make a comment like "I tried it on grass and is was pretty nice" you have to expect a joke response.  I had a nice one all typed in and resisted (but as expected, the gap was filled).  We all get along just fine.  We even goof on each other.  That’s life, that’s ROFF. –Stan

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Can’t we all just get along?  I do have a good imagination, don’t i?  I just want to discuss fly fishing and the various equipment we spend our hard earned money on.

Response:

Chill Rob.  When you make a comment like "I tried it on grass and is was pretty nice" you have to expect a joke response.  

Even in rec.outdoors.lawnmowers.abel?  Speaking of which, maybe someone ought to start a syndicate and float bonds in case they do get stoned and make one….  Of course, if had been Asadi or ‘tripper, no one would have noticed… (but as expected, the gap was filled).

SEX HUMOR! SEX HUMOR!! We all get along just fine.  

What’s this "we" shit, kemosabe? We even goof on each other.

SEX HUMOR! SEX HUMOR!! That’s life, that’s ROFF.

That sounds like a song…. –Stan Can’t we all just get along?  

Sure, Rodney… I do have a good imagination, don’t i?

Well, let’s see – how many dirty words can you make with these letters: qwertyuiopasdfghjklzxcvbnm? I just want to discuss fly fishing and the various equipment we spend our hard earned money on.

"JUST?"  Then what the hell are you doing reading ROFF? TC, R

Response:

That’s life, that’s ROFF.

That’s ROFF (that’s ROFF), that’s what all the people say You’re skunked in April, hit runoff in May But I know I’m gonna change that tune When I’m back on top, back on top in June I said that’s ROFF (that’s ROFF), and as funny as it may seem Some people get their kicks stompin’ on a dream But I don’t let it, let it get me down ’cause this fine old world, it keeps flyin’ around I’ve been a joker, a troller, a pirate, a poet, a pawn and a king I’ve been up and down and over and out and I know one thing Each time I find myself

Question:

Perfectly true, I also started with a seven weight rod. Far too heavy for most things I do, but I had no choice at the time, and was completely uninformed in any case.  I do feel that people tend to divorce the equipment from the intended purpose too much.  It may well be easier for a beginner to cast with a nine foot six weight rod and a weight forward line, but this is rarely the optimum equipment for actually fishing. If possible for stream fishing, I would probably choose a four weight about eight feet in length, if I was restricted to one rod. This offers delicacy and lightness, which are more conducive to stealthy fishing. I have several six weight rods, and although I do use them occasionally, I have not used them for stream fishing for a long time, they are just too heavy. This is not to say that they can not be used, but for me the experience is enhanced by the use of light delicate equipment which is suited to the job at hand. TL MC — "Where fishing is concerned, most anglers are basically manic excessives" http://www.mikeconnor.de This is not directly about rod choice, but indirectly it is.  Especially

<SNIP

Response:

This is not directly about rod choice, but indirectly it is.  Especially for someone fishing small to medium sizes streams and rivers for trout, distance casting is not as important as the ability to place a short cast where you want it and in a relatively delicate, controlled manner. When trying out a new rod, the natural inclination seems to be to see how long of a cast you can make with the rod.  The fact is most of your fishing is going to be on casts thirty feet or less. The rod that is best for belting a cast may not be the best for you at close distances.   Based on my definition of a small to medium stream or river, I would recommend a four or five weight to start. I started with a six weight but now find it is either too heavy or too light for most fishing. It is my least used rod. For me, control in close is easier with a moderate or slower action rod. Willi

Response:

 I would start with an 8 1/2′ five weight. You can fish almost any water with that size rod and fish it comfortably.

….a rod like this one Wayne?    john http://www.ezflyfish.com/grfoutfits.html

Response:

….a rod like this one Wayne?    john http://www.ezflyfish.com/grfoutfits.html

Tis what I started with. — Wayne Knight Expert in creating tailing loops and windknots Otherwise Fishless in Kansas

Response:

As an instructor (ahem) I find that most of my adult male clients prefer a fast actioned 9′0 5/6wt rod. Floating line (because of its bright colour) is usually easier to see – and I reckon for a beginner FF is an extremely visual sport. Ladies seem prefer a lighter rod to start with. Around 8′0 and 4/5 wt is ideal. Not meaning to be sexist but I find that the ladies don’t like to wave a heavier rod around for too long. The longer you can keep the rod in their hands, the easier it is to keep them interested. Kids up to the age of 10ish or 11ish go for the shorter rods – 7′6" 3/4 wts. They understand that you don’t have to cast too far out to catch a fish. I spent an interesting weekend watching a 5 year old cast tighter (and further) loops on his 2/3wt 7′0 rod than most adults could. Allways fast actioned is the secret though in my opinion. Most beginners hava a tendency to false cast too rapidly, which can be a problem on slow rods. Ari Ari Bert                                        Gaelle Bert +27 (0) 83 232 9903                             +27 (0) 83 236 5308 Flyfishing Corner +27 (0) 11 447 7230                             Shop 94, Admirals Court +27 (0) 11 882 8537 (fax)                       Cnr Craddock & Tyrwhitt www.troutfishing.co.za                                Street, Rosebank P.O.Box 79067 Senderwood 2145 South Africa

Response:

With all the manufacturers to choose from, I can sure use some assistance. I’ve  read all kinds of interesting things about what to purchase. Here’s what I’mlooking for. I fish small to medium sized streams for trout. I read that an 8′6wt is a perfect first setup. I also read that if you’re over 5′8, buy 8.5′rod and under 5′8 buy a 7.5 rod. All advise a slow to med action rod.

First off, forget that height to rod length crap unless you’re 10 years old. Myth Second, While I personally beleive a slow-medium action rod is a better rod, until you have a casting stroke it is a moot point. There are some people who say a fast action rod is a better rod to learn to fish on. Third, eventually several folks will ring in suggesting everything from a Cabelas to a top of the line Sage, In your price range there are several good rod and reel combos available from many makers. But each rod is a little different and each will require an adjustment from the fisherman. What might be a good rod to your buddy or one of us could be a poor tool for you. I would ignore and stay away from the Cabelas and the Bass Pro’s unless you are near one of the stores, because one, I have a minority view that they are pieces of crap and secondly read the next paragraph. I believe the best way to learn to fly fish is to obtain lessons from someone, while some colleges and clubs offer lessons, and some folks can even learn from video, the place you are going to get the most help initially is probably your local fly shop. If you must, buy your third and fourth, etc (its’ a disease I own some 30+ rods and reels)from the mail houses, but to start use a local dealer, have them give you the basic lessons in how to get started, (many schools or shops with lessons supply the equipment), try as many rods as you can once you get the basic stroke down and then decide what fits your needs and your style. You can save yourself a big headache later. I’ve been eyeing the Orvis Clearwater and the St. Crouix Pro- graphite.

About 6 years ago, St. Croix rods had a breakage problem, but they have a good following, Orvis speaks for itself. Also look at Reddington, Scott Alpha, Sage Discovery, T&T Emerger and Courtland among others. I would start with an 8 1/2′ five weight. You can fish almost any water with that size rod and fish it comfortably. – Wayne Knight Expert in creating tailing loops and windknots Otherwise Fishless in Kansas

Response:

With all the manufacturers to choose from, I can sure use some assistance. I’ve read all kinds of interesting things about what to purchase. Here’s what I’m looking for. I fish small to medium sized streams for trout. I read that an 8′ / 6wt is a perfect first setup. I also read that if you’re over 5′8, buy 8.5′ rod and under 5′8 buy a 7.5 rod. All advise a slow to med action rod.

An 8′ 6wt??? Really? How big is "medium sized" for crying out loud? To me, small stream means there are certain sections I can jump across. Medium means I can’t jump across, but I can wade across just about anywhere. Large means, well, I have no idea what "large stream" means Regardless, unless you’re planning to fish exclusively with streamers or very-heavily-weighted nymphs, a 4wt or a 5wt would be better. In fact, based on *my* definitions of small and medium, I prefer something on the order of a 7.5′ 3wt or 4wt. –Steve

Response:

With all the manufacturers to choose from, I can sure use some assistance. I’ve read all kinds of interesting things about what to purchase. Here’s what I’m looking for. I fish small to medium sized streams for trout. I read that an 8′ / 6wt is a perfect first setup. I also read that if you’re over 5′8, buy 8.5′ rod and under 5′8 buy a 7.5 rod. All advise a slow to med action rod. I’ve been eyeing the Orvis Clearwater and the St. Crouix Pro-graphite. I’m looking to spend around $200 for rod/reel combo. Since this is my first fly outfit, any advise on what to look at would be appreciated. Thanks.

Response:

Question:

         I am just starting to learn how to fly fish.  I am currently using my friends equipment.  As I was looking around for my own equipment,  I quickly realized it is not very cheap.  If any one has any older equipment sitting around collecting dust,  I would appreciate it if you would either sell it to me very cheap or give me it to me please. I would be more than happy to pay for all shipping costs.  Please E-mail for my address. Thank you  Scott    

Response:

        I am just starting to learn how to fly fish.  I am currently using my friends equipment.  As I was looking around for my own equipment,  I quickly realized it is not very cheap.  If any one has any older equipment sitting around collecting dust,  I would appreciate it if you would either sell it to me very cheap or give me it to me please. I would be more than happy to pay for all shipping costs.  Please E-mail for my address. Thank you Scott    

Wait till the clave is over.  There are likely going to be a number of multi-piece rods (formerly two piece) that will be on the market – real cheap. Cheers Visit The Streamer Page at http://members.home.net/pcharles/streamers/index.html

Response:

         I am just starting to learn how to fly fish.  I am currently using my friends equipment.  As I was looking around for my own equipment,  I quickly realized it is not very cheap.  If any one has any older equipment sitting around collecting dust,  I would appreciate it if you would either sell it to me very cheap or give me it to me please. I would be more than happy to pay for all shipping costs.  Please E-mail for my address.

Get a Cabela’s catalog. If you can’t afford their stuff you need to find another hobby, — visit my web site: http://home.earthlink.net/~royalwulff/ something bogus to avoid spam)

Response:

Get a Cabela’s catalog. If you can’t afford their stuff you need to find another hobby,

Good advice.  You would do that by going to http://www.cabelas.com  You should be able to get started for less than $100, and it’s not bad stuff.  You might try e-bay too.  I’m sure there’s used stuff out there, but it’s hard to find. — Levi "So long, and thanks for all the fish."

Response:

Good advice.  You would do that by going to http://www.cabelas.com  You should be able to get started for less than $100, and it’s not bad stuff.  You might try e-bay too.  I’m sure there’s used stuff out there, but it’s hard to find.

Hard to find?  Nah, there are 272 fly rods for sale on ebay right now.  This one’s about to end, $13.50. http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=320507767 Regards, Jeff

Response:

         I am just starting to learn how to fly fish.  I am currently using my friends equipment.  As I was looking around for my own equipment,  I quickly realized it is not very cheap.  If any one has any older equipment sitting around collecting dust,  I would appreciate it if you would either sell it to me very cheap or give me it to me please. I would be more than happy to pay for all shipping costs.  Please E-mail for my address.

I started out with a Martin outfit from Wal-Mart a few years ago.  It wasn’t the best, but for just starting out for something like $35.00 you get a 3 piece rod, a reel with backing, and fly line.  You have to buy some leaders and your flies to start, but what the hell for under 50 bucks you can be fly fishing.  Every couple of years I up date and get a new rod and reel set up…come to think about I feel I’m due again  Problem is It seems to keep getting more and more expensive… I just seen a nice 4 weight split bamboo rod at the shop selling for $500 and the reel was around $250….I don’t think the wife will go for this set up though.  I guess I’ll dream for just a little long for now…. anyone have the winning numbers for tonight’s lottery ahead of time? –Randy

Response:

Question:

To jfraser, about the first question regarding losing flies from snagging-  you were right-its part of the sport.  Nymphs, to be most effective have to be fished bouncing on the bottom.  I do not know how deep the water where you fish at is but one thing I do is use a floating line and run my leader length the same depth as the stream.  I then add split shots to the leader according to the speed of the current just until I feel my nymph just touching the bottom. The floating line helps me control my drift better and I can dectect strikes more often. For casting, I always believed in a quartering cast upstream and a drag free float.  On streamers/wet flies at the end of the drift let you fly arc around. a lot of strikes will occur as you fly comes around

Response:

I’d like to thank you and everybody else who is sending me feedback and tips. You ROFF gang are a real friendly bunch! Best Regards, Jeremy Fraser —

Yeah, and if you want this bunch to stay friendly Jeremy, never start a C&R/C&K thread!  ;-) Frank Church USAF Retired Elkhart, IN

Response:

I have just started to learn a few things about trout fly fishing, but there are a couple of questions I haven’t found the answers to in any books or in the ROFF FAQ. Can anybody help me answer these? 1) I’m losing piles of flies casting Type II sinking tip into moving water. I tend to lose them by snagging and I’m wondering if this is just part of the sport or if I’m doing something wrong…? Can I prevent bottom snags by using strike indicators, shorter leaders, slower sink tip fly lines, a combination of the three or by doing something else? Don’t I want to get egg, leech, etc. patterns down on the bottom of rivers below the current? 2) I’ve read so much about casting and 10 to 2, 11 to 1, etc. and this has all been useful (I’m still trying to tame out a nasty tailing loop). I even went to a casting clinic — which was very helpful in getting me thinking about good casting technique. The puzzling thing to me, which hasn’t been well described to me yet, is the retrieve. I am predominantly wanting to fish rivers so I assume this plays a part in retrieving. I also assume that different patterns (wet/dry, terrestrial/non-terrestrial, leech/minnow) call for different retrieve strategies. To me this really means thinking about how your retrieve will sucker the fish into believing your fly is the real thing, therefore I wouldn’t think it would make much sense to retrieve an egg pattern fly with much style because the fly’s "action" would be in the free float of the eggs in the current. I’m sure the retrieve is important in still water; however, is it worth giving much thought to it in moving water or should I just be focusing on getting my fly in the right place in/on the current for the duration of it’s "drag-free" float? Any comments/assistance would be appreciated! Thanks in advance, Jeremy Fraser

Response:

1) I’m losing piles of flies casting Type II sinking tip into moving water. I tend to lose them by snagging and I’m wondering if this is just part of the sport or if I’m doing something wrong…?

Snagging flies is to some extent just the price of entry.  But, with experience, I find myself losing fewer flies than I used to for two reasons: 1.  Some casts I might have made in the past, I realize now will simply end up with a snag and no fish.  So I don’t cast. 2.  I’m a lot better at unsnagging a snagged fly.  Generally if you walk upstream of your fly, and pull back on the line in the opposite direction it entered the snag, perhaps extending your rod tip to the center of the stream, it will come free without a problem.  If it still doesn’t come out, walk further upstream, and try again.  It’s very rare that I have to break off a fly. Today probably lose one fly when before I would have lost 5 or 6.  Suspect your averages will improve too.  is it worth giving much thought to it in moving water or should I just be focusing on getting my fly in the right place in/on the current for the duration of it’s "drag-free" float?

99%+ of the time with nymphs or terrestials, what you want is a drag free float.  Achieving this is what much of becoming a good fisherman is about, and is something I’m still learning.  The techniques of mending, and special casts such as a reach or curved cast, or slack line casts, are very powerful. A lot of what I learned, I was exposed to by friends or guides, then had to learn by myself on the water.  If you’re having trouble keeping a drag free float in a situation, it pays to experiment with different mends or casts until you get it right (even if the fish are gone). Doug Swisher’s advanced casting video has a great introduction to casts which can help you in tricky situations (e.g. a reach cast).  And John Judy has written a book on slack line technique which is interesting, if a bit esoteric. Michael

Response:

1) I’m losing piles of flies casting Type II sinking tip into moving

water. I’m not sure why you are using sinking line.  Unless you are fishing really deep runs consistently (or perhaps fishing streamers??), you should be using floating line.  Your leader is all that should be sinking. An important key to nymph fishing is proper depth.  You should use an indicator that’s adjusted so that your fly moves with the current but occasionally gets delayed by riverbed obstacles.  If you are constantly hanging up or catching moss on your fly, move your indicator closer to your fly, if aren’t getting any false "hits" as you drift, you’re too far off the bottom.  The trick is to have your fly or flies tumbling around in the eddy-like turbulent layer of water produced by the interaction of the current with the riverbottom structure.  That’s where the fish spend a lot of time feeding.  Use an indicator that’s easy to move up and down your line so that you will be encouraged to change it as you move to new spots on the stream.  Adjusting depth has produced more strikes for me (in a drift zone I’ve already fished unsuccessfully) than any other change (such as change of weight or fly type). Proper weighting is also a key factor.  If you have the right amount of weight.  When you cast 1/4 up stream, the ideal is to have your flies "in the zone" as they pass the point straight out from you, cross-current.  Too much weight and you’ll definitely be getting stuck a lot on the bottom. Too little and you won’t be spending much time "in the zone" for each drift.  Personally, I find that if I must use more weight, I get hung up less if I use a couple of small split shot together rather than a larger shot of equivalent weight. The advice about walking up stream to pull the fly out of the snag the way it went in is a really good one.  I’ve saved many a fly this way. 2) … The puzzling thing to me, which hasn’t been well described to me yet, is the retrieve….

For 95% of dry fly fishing, only dead drift will generate strikes.  Some caddis flies do skid along the surface and there are some techniques for imparting action that is natural.   The most important part about the retrieve in dry fly fishing is not to make a big splash or otherwise disturb the water with your initial backcast.  Start your back cast with a brief, slow pull to get the fly moving (especially if it has sunk below the surface) and then use full energy after it’s moving.  Try doing it the wrong way a few times, then the right way.  You’ll see a big difference in the amount of disturbance created as you backcast. When nymphing, you will generate some strikes on the retrieve simply because the pause between each pull causes an alteration in the flies movement that can mimic prey in trouble.  Fish sometimes key on this and you get strikes. Retrieve technique is most important when streamer fishing, but I do not do that much, so I can’t say much about it. Good luck. —                                                       -dnc-

Response:

Dear Rookie,      I’ve found that using floating line with a stike intcator and a small bead head or tiny weight helps to prevent losing all the flys.  I like to use what I call a "pendalum" approach to tying up my flies and weight.  First you take a separate piece of tippet about three to six inches long and tie it to your tippet line (or leader) about two to three inches form the bottom of your line.  Then you put your weight(what ever size you feel is nessicery) on the shorter of the two ends (usually the orriginal line).  Next you tie your choice of fly to the other piece of line and you are ready to go.  The theory is that when the wieght gets hung up on the bottom, it will just slide off and your fly will remain attached.  Granted you will have to replace the wieght, but it’s much more cost efficient than replacing flies.  I also recomend using a strike indicator.  Good luck, and I hope that my description made sence. Aaron

Response:

I think you’re right about casting sinking tip. I’m going to try casting the floating line I’ve got and see if I have better results. I’ll also try sticking a strike indicator on and see if that helps me at all. I’d like to thank you and everybody else who is sending me feedback and tips. You ROFF gang are a real friendly bunch! Best Regards, Jeremy Fraser — – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – 1) I’m losing piles of flies casting Type II sinking tip into moving water. I’m not sure why you are using sinking line.  Unless you are fishing really deep runs consistently (or perhaps fishing streamers??), you should be using floating line.  Your leader is all that should be sinking. An important key to nymph fishing is proper depth.  You should use an indicator that’s adjusted so that your fly moves with the current but occasionally gets delayed by riverbed obstacles.  If you are constantly hanging up or catching moss on your fly, move your indicator closer to your fly, if aren’t getting any false "hits" as you drift, you’re too far off the bottom.  The trick is to have your fly or flies tumbling around in the eddy-like turbulent layer of water produced by the interaction of the current with the riverbottom structure.  That’s where the fish spend a lot of time feeding.  Use an indicator that’s easy to move up and down your line so that you will be encouraged to change it as you move to new spots on the stream.  Adjusting depth has produced more strikes for me (in a drift zone I’ve already fished unsuccessfully) than any other change (such as change of weight or fly type). Proper weighting is also a key factor.  If you have the right amount of weight.  When you cast 1/4 up stream, the ideal is to have your flies "in the zone" as they pass the point straight out from you, cross-current.  Too much weight and you’ll definitely be getting stuck a lot on the bottom. Too little and you won’t be spending much time "in the zone" for each drift.  Personally, I find that if I must use more weight, I get hung up less if I use a couple of small split shot together rather than a larger shot of equivalent weight. The advice about walking up stream to pull the fly out of the snag the way it went in is a really good one.  I’ve saved many a fly this way. 2) … The puzzling thing to me, which hasn’t been well described to me yet, is the retrieve…. For 95% of dry fly fishing, only dead drift will generate strikes.  Some caddis flies do skid along the surface and there are some techniques for imparting action that is natural. The most important part about the retrieve in dry fly fishing is not to make a big splash or otherwise disturb the water with your initial backcast.  Start your back cast with a brief, slow pull to get the fly moving (especially if it has sunk below the surface) and then use full energy after it’s moving.  Try doing it the wrong way a few times, then the right way.  You’ll see a big difference in the amount of disturbance created as you backcast. When nymphing, you will generate some strikes on the retrieve simply because the pause between each pull causes an alteration in the flies movement that can mimic prey in trouble.  Fish sometimes key on this and you get strikes. Retrieve technique is most important when streamer fishing, but I do not do that much, so I can’t say much about it. Good luck. —                                                       -dnc-

Response:

Question:

Hello, I was wondering if anyone know how the fly fishing is out in the Ozarks? Is the Missouri side any better than the Arkansas side?  I know they’re just political boundaries, but there may be some latitude-altitide differences that make the north vs. south sides superior for fishing. Thanks for any pointers!                                                 -Yiing Lin

       That’s easy, the south is always best. Don’t listen to them damn yankees.                                                           John Popp                                                       in Sanford Fl.

Response:

Get Missouri Ozark Waterways and the Missouri Conservation Atlas from the Mo. Conservation Comm. Outdoor Library, P.O. Box 180, Jefferson City MO 65102.  The Mo. Ozark Waterways is the definitive guide to streams in the Ozarks.  The Conservation Atlas is a Guide to Conservation Commissioned owned property.  They administer all the river accesses. I could make a joke about Arkansas and farm animals and such but I will resist. I posted a long answer to a question like this a few months ago.  You should be able to find it on Deja News.  Don’t have time to write anymore right now. Hello, I was wondering if anyone know how the fly fishing is out in the Ozarks? Is the Missouri side any better than the Arkansas side?  I know they’re just political boundaries, but there may be some latitude-altitide differences that make the north vs. south sides superior for fishing. Thanks for any pointers!                                                 -Yiing Lin

–         –Dan Cytron             Good judgment comes from experience.  Experience comes from bad judgment.                 –Bill Hayes         My skydiving pictures website is at http://www.nightowl.net/~dcytron         SOAR Inflatables, manufacturer and distributor of the         SOAR Inflatable canoe, has a website at http://www.soar1.com.

Response:

Hello, I was wondering if anyone know how the fly fishing is out in the Ozarks? Is the Missouri side any better than the Arkansas side?  I know they’re just political boundaries, but there may be some latitude-altitide differences that make the north vs. south sides superior for fishing. Thanks for any pointers!                                                 -Yiing Lin

Response:

Question:

Will be at camp Moosehead Lake, Maine second week September.  Want to do some casting/spinning fishing for trout, salmon,  teage what should I take, in way of lures, what weight line, etc.  Any suggestions where to fish on Mt Kineo side lake?    

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writes: Will be at camp Moosehead Lake, Maine second week September.  Want to do some casting/spinning fishing for trout, salmon,  teage what should I take, in way of lures, what weight line, etc.  Any suggestions where to fish on Mt Kineo side lake?    

Stop off at the Maine Guide Fly Shop in Greenville before heading to Rockwood. Danny will set you up with what you need for spin fishing or lake trolling. Bill — Bill Fling                     Tel. (315) 298-3044 SALMON RIVER ANGLERS LODGE     FAX  (315) 298-2619 P.O. Box 353                   Rt. 13, Rome Road Pulaski, NY 13142-0353   ‘SALMON RIVER/LAKE ONTARIO SPORTFISHING REPORTS’             ‘http://www.salmon-river.com’

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Has anyone fished Moosehead Lake (Maine) for Bass?  I am thinking about going up there in August.  Thanks

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Wow, this takes me back…haven’t fished Moosehead since the early 70s…didn’t know bass were there! Try spinners fished deep near the islands and points. ACP

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- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – You do not specify what type of Japanese Maples these are, but…. I would recommend not pruning your Japanese Maple.  My wife’s grandmother had some very nice old maples that we had to prune every year, only because some gardner had once pruned them back.   Her/our experience was that once they’re pruned the pruned ends bush out and sucker heavily.  Every year these trees (15-20 feet tall) would bush out and become so thick you couldn’t see into them.  The pleasure of the japanese maple is the open, airy look, which was totally destroyed by the pruning. G-maw railed on and on every year about how they should never have touched those trees.  She was quite an experienced gardner and ikebana instructor, and knew her stuff.  In her opinion, the only pruning that should ever be done is to remove large branches to help promote the open feel these trees should have.  The natural shape is wonderful if you just let it go and grow up…

   My advice is also non-professional, and while I agree with these sentiments about what happens if you prune badly, it doesn’t follow that J. Maples shouldn’t be pruned.  It’s certainly true that if you lop off a major branch of most deciduous trees, the tree will put out many shoots from that point and generally look bad.  The proper thing is to prune early to establish the shape of the tree as it grows…and this pruning should generally be of complete stems or branches.  If you must cut off a thicker branch or stem other than at the base, it should be just beyond a smaller side branch that you expect to provide a better shape.  It may still be necessary to get rid of suckers, but they are easily rubbed off with your thumb when small, and the resprouting does not go on forever.   I too like the open airy look of a properly trimmed J. Maple, but this rarely happens by accident or neglect. — Lloyd Fortney http://www.phy.duke.edu/~fortney/ has links to my garden, flower, flyfishing, and travel JPEG images as well as teaching, research, and stuff like that

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I LOVE THIS COMMENT AND INTEND TO PLAIGERIZE IT(SP): This is non-professional advice and if followed, voids your warranty… MY SENTIMENTS EXACTLY!!! – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – In our yard in Tuscaloosa, Alabama we have nice small three year old Japanese Maple  in need of pruning for better shaping, etc.  Is it OK to prune branches now

Question:

I’m Fly-Fishing the Alphabet, and have come up short on rivers beginning with O (probably a temporary oversight), Q, R, and Z. This is admittedly a daffy undertaking, but it’s better than the aimless wanderings of Fly Fishing America.   I  find that I’ve already fished most of the alphabet (Arkansas, Bighorn, Colorado, Dolores, Encampment, Fryingpan, Grande Ronde, Henry’s Fork, you get the picture). An "i" river was a problem, until I remembered the tiny Illinois River in northern Colorado. Any ideas for Q, X and Z? The Quinalt and Quillaute would do. Nice Sea run cutts in there right now.  Steelhead later.

Question!  Is it your goal to fish a stream for each letter of the alphabet or to catch fish from a stream for each letter of the alphabet? I once knew a fisherman who set out to fish every stream and lake in Montana.  Dont’t know if he made it or not but it would be fun trying. So much water, so little time. Jim

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: I once knew a fisherman who set out to fish every stream and lake : in Montana.  Dont’t know if he made it or not but it would be fun : trying. This little suggestion made my heart go floppa-floppa.  Not Montana, but this would be a *great* way to justify the hard trips to the interior of Idaho.   Wow.  Greeeeat suggestion! I have fished many of the "great" rivers of the west.  I don’t think I would miss much at all if I narrowed my focus to the rivers and streams of Idaho.   It would also make me feel better when I’m standing in a stream in the middle of a pasture with my line in the water and a speeding pickup goes cruising by at high speed with five guys screaming out the window and bed "You fool…there’s no fish left in there…"  I’ll have an excuse when they see me in the local tavern later that night. Perfect, a fishing version of Sissy Hankshaw.  I can see it now, casting a puddle because it is a body of water and it is there.  Perhaps my thumb will sprout a flyrod. Cool. — Rick T. Rick Fletcher   –   http://www.chem.uidaho.edu/~fletcher/ Associate professor of chemistry  |  That’s Idaho, not Iowa.    | ad hominem University of Idaho               |  Upper Left Hand Corner.    | ad hominem Moscow, ID 83844-2343             |  No, I don’t grow potatoes. | ad hominem

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the Quinipoxet river flows into the Wachusetts resevoir about 40 miles west of Boston.  it contains stocked brown and some native brook trout. Gerry

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the Quinipoxet river flows into the Wachusetts resevoir about 40 miles west of Boston.  it contains stocked brown and some native brook trout. Gerry

X & Z may require you to travel abroad. Not so bad an idea. George Gehrke/Mr. Gink

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: X & Z may require you to travel abroad. Not so bad an idea. Send me the money from one out of every 100 little bottles you sell and I’ll travel!<g  (That’s all I ask, one out overy hundred.) — Rick T. Rick Fletcher   –   http://www.chem.uidaho.edu/~fletcher/ Associate professor of chemistry  |  That’s Idaho, not Iowa.    | ad hominem University of Idaho               |  Upper Left Hand Corner.    | ad hominem Moscow, ID 83844-2343             |  No, I don’t grow potatoes. | ad hominem

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Quinn River, Nevada.      There are good browns in most of the river, and the fishing is improving. The Quinn River Allotment Management Plan is up for consideration until October 23, copies of which can be had from the Humboldt National Forest, 2035 Last Chance Rd., Elko, NV 89801. Alternative 4 will provide the best future fishing and is the preferred alternative. The river runs along the NV-OR border north of Winnemucca. Jim, Nevada Jim’s Outdoor Sports, Elko, NV Jim, Nevada Jim’s Outdoor Sports, Elko, NV

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I’m Fly-Fishing the Alphabet, and have come up short on rivers beginning with O (probably a temporary oversight), Q, R, and Z.

Try the Quitapahilla outside of Lancaster, PA.  This is still on my "to fish" list so I don’t know how well it fishes.  Directions are available in Dwight Landis’ Trout Streams of PA or Charlie Meck’s Pa Trout Streams and Their Hatches

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: I’m Fly-Fishing the Alphabet, and have come up short on rivers beginning : with O (probably a temporary oversight), Q, R, and Z. : This is admittedly a daffy undertaking, but it’s better than the aimless : wanderings of Fly Fishing America.   I  find that I’ve already fished most : of the alphabet (Arkansas, Bighorn, Colorado, Dolores, Encampment, : Fryingpan, Grande Ronde, Henry’s Fork, you get the picture). : An "i" river was a problem, until I remembered the tiny Illinois River in : northern Colorado. : Any ideas for Q, X and Z? These can all be handled in the PNW, but I’m not telling where.  You will enjoy searching the map, or just use the web and do a search with one of the map services or the Geological Survey. — Rick T. Rick Fletcher   –   http://www.chem.uidaho.edu/~fletcher/ Associate professor of chemistry  |  That’s Idaho, not Iowa.    | ad hominem University of Idaho               |  Upper Left Hand Corner.    | ad hominem Moscow, ID 83844-2343             |  No, I don’t grow potatoes. | ad hominem

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I’m Fly-Fishing the Alphabet, and have come up short on rivers beginning with O (probably a temporary oversight), Q, R, and Z. This is admittedly a daffy undertaking, but it’s better than the aimless wanderings of Fly Fishing America.   I  find that I’ve already fished most of the alphabet (Arkansas, Bighorn, Colorado, Dolores, Encampment, Fryingpan, Grande Ronde, Henry’s Fork, you get the picture). An "i" river was a problem, until I remembered the tiny Illinois River in northern Colorado. Any ideas for Q, X and Z?

The Quinalt and Quillaute would do. Nice Sea run cutts in there right now.  Steelhead later.

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I’m Fly-Fishing the Alphabet, and have come up short on rivers beginning with O (probably a temporary oversight), Q, R, and Z. This is admittedly a daffy undertaking, but it’s better than the aimless wanderings of Fly Fishing America.   I  find that I’ve already fished most of the alphabet (Arkansas, Bighorn, Colorado, Dolores, Encampment, Fryingpan, Grande Ronde, Henry’s Fork, you get the picture). An "i" river was a problem, until I remembered the tiny Illinois River in northern Colorado. Any ideas for Q, X and Z?

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Question:

Try http://www.flyfield.com/clipart.htm There is a link on that site to a second page. Hmm.  I tried both links with no luck: "Not found".  Maybe these pages require plug-ins, or? — Ken Brown Satis elequontiae, sapientiae parum.

– "If the facts do not conform to the theory, they must be disposed of."      Maier’s Law

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 I have jumpe to both of these sites, and it tells me that the URL is  no longer available.  Are the addresses correct?  Thanks!

Try this – it worked for me.  first go to http://www.flyfield.com Then, when your into the main page, change the request to http://www.flyfield.com/xclipart2.htm The clipart 1 page doesn’t seem to work but the clipart 2 page does.  He doesn’t give you a link to it on his page though so you have to ask for it by address.

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Hmm.  I tried both links with no luck: "Not found".  Maybe these pages require plug-ins, or? — Ken Brown Satis elequontiae, sapientiae parum.

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Try this – it worked for me.  first go to http://www.flyfield.com Then, when your into the main page, change the request to http://www.flyfield.com/xclipart2.htm The clipart 1 page doesn’t seem to work but the clipart 2 page does.  He doesn’t give you a link to it on his page though so you have to ask for it by address.

Well, I’m sure sorry if I caused any problems here. I admit that I didn’t test those URLs before posting my reply to Joe. They work from my bookmark list but, being digitally challenged, I am at a loss to explain why they don’t from here.  Anyway, I think that you have the right explanation (above). However, I went to the Fly Field homepage and found the #1 clip art gallary working this morning. Again, I apologize for causing any problems with my efforts help a fellow newsletter editor. Perhaps one of the many technically versed members of this group could help explain this situation for us. Steve

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Same here.  I am very interested in these sites. Dave D

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I have jumpe to both of these sites, and it tells me that the URL is no longer available.  Are the addresses correct?  Thanks! – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I’m the editor (still wet behind the ears!) of my TU Chapter’s newsletter.  Can anyone tell me where to access, for a fee or free, some sources of flyfishing clip art to stick in the corners of my newsletter?  I would appreciate any info you have. Skip James Check out the Fly & Field web site for Dave Whitlocks Clip Art gallery. It is at "http://www.flyfield.com/clipart.html". I also found a really interesting site at the Univeristy of Illinois at Urbana-Champaign. It is from their Entomology department and has terrific insect drawings. Check it out at "http://www.life.uiuc.edu/Entomology/insectsgifs.html". Hope this helps! Steve

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I’m the editor (still wet behind the ears!) of my TU Chapter’s newsletter.  Can anyone tell me where to access, for a fee or free, some sources of flyfishing clip art to stick in the corners of my newsletter?  I would appreciate any info you have. Skip James

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I’m the editor (still wet behind the ears!) of my TU Chapter’s newsletter.  Can anyone tell me where to access, for a fee or free, some sources of flyfishing clip art to stick in the corners of my newsletter?  I would appreciate any info you have. Skip James

Check out the Fly & Field web site for Dave Whitlocks Clip Art gallery. It is at "http://www.flyfield.com/clipart.html". I also found a really interesting site at the Univeristy of Illinois at Urbana-Champaign. It is from their Entomology department and has terrific insect drawings. Check it out at "http://www.life.uiuc.edu/Entomology/insectsgifs.html". Hope this helps! Steve

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