Question:

http://taggart.glg.msu.edu/gyro/gbee.htm Free Plans Opps, Documentation

Response:

Strongly advise joining the Popular Rotorcraft Association.  Their magazine keeps you current with whats going on in the autogyro business.  Their website is www.pra.org. Stu Fields

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – any DIY websites with info on how to build a gyro copter (newbe)

Response:

any DIY websites with info on how to build a gyro copter (newbe)

I see your email at least is in the UK. You’re going to have to deal with the Populr Flying Association (PFA) which has been delegated the authority to certify experimentals there. The CAA takes only a broad interest. Unlike the US and Canada where you can literally put wings on a fishing boat or a parachure wing on a Honda motorbike and register it if you haven’t done a shoddy job building, the PFA wants to see approved designs. Not sure if the Gyrobee and its relatives are blessed by PFA. You might be left with the choices of using a kit the PFA has already approved, or negotiating the forest of PFA approval on your own. (I have never done this — I’m in the US — so I dunno if it’s easy or hard. You certainly CAN do it because quite a few homebuilt designs originate in Britain, but it seems like there are not as many as from other Western nations). Anyway, the PFA is a good place to start with anything experimental-aviation related in (what I assume to be) your area. Somebody there will be able to definitively answer your questions. cheers -=K=- Rule #1: Don’t hit anything big.

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – any DIY websites with info on how to build a gyro copter (newbe) I see your email at least is in the UK. You’re going to have to deal with the Populr Flying Association (PFA) which has been delegated the authority to certify experimentals there. The CAA takes only a broad interest. Unlike the US and Canada where you can literally put wings on a fishing boat or a parachure wing on a Honda motorbike and register it if you haven’t done a shoddy job building, the PFA wants to see approved designs. cheers -=K=- Rule #1: Don’t hit anything big.

   Alfuk,    Another good place to search for info is at the "Fly Gyro! forums":    http://pub23.ezboard.com/btheflygyroforums    There is a UK specific forum there, and plenty of gyroheads to answer all of you questions.    "Gyro"Mike

Response:

any DIY websites with info on how to build a gyro copter (newbe)

Response:

Check Raplh Taggart’s Gyrobee first: http://taggart.glg.msu.edu/gyro/gbee.htm Cheers, Alex http://twistairclub.narod.ru – Light Rotorcraft in Russia – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – any DIY websites with info on how to build a gyro copter (newbe)

Response:

Question:

Lawrence, Just as long as you don’t wee on anyone.  :-) Ernie "lawrence" wrote Hi I hope you don’t mind sometimes I like to have a wee prattle! <snip – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Regards Lawrence

Response:

Come out to Oregon and we’ll go for summer steelies on the Deschutes. Remember, you don’t have to tie your line to your reel! Then we’ll send you out bonefishing with Randall Kaufmann… – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text –  you could possible do without tying your line to your real as that end of the line rarely sees daylight.

Response:

My fly reel holds about 250 metres/yards of line and backing and when 200 yards gets stripped by a fish hooked on a size 14 treble I start running Of course (Ernie from previous reply) others have been known to wee themselves Lawrence — http://www.f-deans.freeserve.co.uk http://www.flytyer.co.uk off my Lily Pad by writing: – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -Come out to Oregon and we’ll go for summer steelies on the Deschutes. Remember, you don’t have to tie your line to your reel! Then we’ll send you out bonefishing with Randall Kaufmann…  you could possible do without tying your line to your real as that end of the line rarely sees daylight.

Response:

My post was pretty snide. Wasn’t personal! At least when a fish that big strips your spool, you know it’s moving in the opposite direction!

Response:

Hi I hope you don’t mind sometimes I like to have a wee prattle! When I were a lad I remember fishing one day with a stick a cord and a piece of pin for a hook. I had at least three or four knots in the cord when this old codger said to me.  "Son you’ll never catch a fish with that it’s got too many knots in it" Whats knots got to do with it I replied. He said with a smile  "If you hook a fish, every knot between you and the fish is a weak spot. You have at least three or four weak spots, you can guarantee that it will be easier for the bigger fish to break one of these weak spots" "If you can son aim for one knot between you and the fish" I said which one would that be then? "The one that ties on the hook" he grinned and off he went. His legacy left to me all those years ago is with me to this day. Do not have more weak links between you and the fish than you need. I guess it’s impossible to fish with only one knot, between you and the fish, but you can minimise the effect. My fishing setup has a knot joining my line to my reel and a knot joining my line to my hook these two are a necessity. Well almost you could possible do without tying your line to your real as that end of the line rarely sees daylight. In between that (the weak spots) I have a permanently whipped loop on the end of my fly line. This joins to the leader with another loop and that is it! The only other weak spot I have is that I like to prattle every now and then Regards Lawrence — http://www.f-deans.freeserve.co.uk http://www.flytyer.co.uk

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Question:

Hello, Does anyone know good flyfishing classes offered around pacific NW (in September)?  I live in Seattle area and am new to flyfishing.  In fact I’ve never flyfished before but been curious about it for a while now.  I have couple of buddies who are also interested in flyfishing so we thought taking a class would be great way to get into the sport of flyfishing. Obviously we don’t have any equipments so we are looking for classes that rent necessary equipments. I am looking for weekend class (1-3 days). We don’t mind traveling as far as BC area (in fact we prefer that class is held away from Seattle proper so we can make this a road trip!) Any info, pointers, and suggestions will be greatly appreciated. Thanks, KC

Response:

Did you try fly shops?  Most of them either have lessons or know who does.  

Response:

There are several fly shops in the area that will either have classes you can take or will simply take you out to the parking lot and show you how to cast. In Bellevue try:     Kaufmanns Streamborn (By K-Mart) http://www.kman.com     Orvis (NE 10th and Bellevie Way) In Woodinville try Swedes In Seattle try:     Kaufmanns Downtown store     Patricks Flyshop     Outdoor Emporium     Avid Angler http://www.AvidAngler.com I often go to many of these shops and every one of them have very helpful poeple who should be able to get you started. You might also try getting in touch with the Overlake Fly Fishing Club (http://www.offc.superhighway.net) or the Washington Fly Fishing Club to see if their members would be willing to help. I’m fairly certain you will get help at either one. Disclaimer, I have no affiliation with any of the above but merely enjoy each for their own pluses and minuses. Gary Johnson – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Hello, Does anyone know good flyfishing classes offered around pacific NW (in September)?  I live in Seattle area and am new to flyfishing.  In fact I’ve never flyfished before but been curious about it for a while now.  I have couple of buddies who are also interested in flyfishing so we thought taking a class would be great way to get into the sport of flyfishing. Obviously we don’t have any equipments so we are looking for classes that rent necessary equipments. I am looking for weekend class (1-3 days). We don’t mind traveling as far as BC area (in fact we prefer that class is held away from Seattle proper so we can make this a road trip!) Any info, pointers, and suggestions will be greatly appreciated. Thanks, KC

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Question:

Hi Fisherfolks! One of my friends is going to a family reunion near Charma, New Mexico. He says the Brazos River is near there. He would like to try fly-fishing again while he is there. He used to flyfish as a kid, but let it go as an adult, and would like to find a guide who can help him get reacquainted (sp?) with it. Can anyone help with this? Please E-mail me your response. Thanks for the help! Steve Rosenblum Ann Arbor, MI

Response:

Hi Fisherfolks! One of my friends is going to a family reunion near Charma, New Mexico. He says the Brazos River is near there. He would like to try fly-fishing again while he is there. He used to flyfish as a kid, but let it go as an adult, and would like to find a guide who can help him get reacquainted (sp?) with it. Can anyone help with this? Please E-mail me your response. Thanks for the help! Steve Rosenblum Ann Arbor, MI

Hi Steve I recently fished there and the fishing was good. I didn’t use a guide but I’m sure you can find a guide by clicking on my web page and then on the fishing reports. There is a whole section on New Mexico. From there it’s just a matter of checking the different report and the organizations who supply them. Good luck & … — Tight Lines ….. Al Beatty BT’s Fly Fishing Products Catalog,Tips & Tricks, Fishing Reports, & NeverSink at: http://www.btsflyfishing.com

Response:

Hi Fisherfolks! One of my friends is going to a family reunion near Charma, New Mexico. He says the Brazos River is near there. He would like to try fly-fishing again while he is there. He used to flyfish as a kid, but let it go as an adult, and would like to find a guide who can help him get reacquainted (sp?) with it. Can anyone help with this? Please E-mail me your response. Thanks for the help! Steve Rosenblum Ann Arbor, MI

I don’t know about the Brazos but the Chama, the Rio Grande, the Cimmaron and other N New Mexico streams and rivers offer great fishing.  Your friend might contact Van Beacham at Los Rios Angler in Taos (not too far from Chama by western standards).  LRA phone number is (505)758-2798.  Los Pinos in Albaquerque (505) 884-7501 or High Desert Angler in Sanat Fe (505) 98 TROUT –don’t you hate look for those letters?– might be able to suggest or provide guides.  The book Flyfishing in Northern New Mexico is great if you friend doesn’t really need a guide. John

Response:

Question:

: Why dont you look into a used inflatable. They are incredibly light, Can : move real well with minimum H.P., and can be trailered with ease. Most : 13-16 ft inflatables weigh less that 900lbs with engine. They can also : carry more weight in most circumstances than aluminum or fiberglass boats : of the same size. That would have been a good thought, too, but I ended up buying a new 16′ Carolina Skiff, with the semi-v hull. So far, I couldn’t be more delighted. With the boat, that is. My car, as a tow vehicle — another story. Yeah, the Saturn can pull it. On flat stretches, or down-grades, I can even shift into 5th at highway speeds. But I discovered the hard way about certain ramps. Too steep, too slippery, sand at the base….<sigh It sure as hell takes the fun out of things, when you’re worried like hell about getting it back out of the water, at the end of the day….

Response:

Why dont you look into a used inflatable. They are incredibly light, Can move real well with minimum H.P., and can be trailered with ease. Most 13-16 ft inflatables weigh less that 900lbs with engine. They can also carry more weight in most circumstances than aluminum or fiberglass boats of the same size. DB

Response:

Most fiberglass boats are heavy, and that’s the bottom line at to how much push you get from the kicker.  I’ve got a 15′ glass boat that weights about 400 lbs, the builder stamps it as rated for 25hp, but he personally says its ideal for 15 hp, and the coast guard rates it for 40 hp.  I put a 1997 25hp Mercury on it, and it jumps.  Clearly, I could pull a skier. Also, flat bottom boats (like mine) skip like a stone, once you’re on plane, they fly.  But they’re torture in any kind of chop. Carolina skiffs and whalers are heavy.  If you want to conserve, get an aluminum boat.  If you want to know about my boat builder, email me. (small shop in Central Florida.) – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – It sounds like you want a setup like I got. The boats a 16 foot 1968 Duracraft Aluminum boat. The boat is heavy duty (not a sears special!!!), waying in at about 250 pounds. Its welded at the seems and then has rivited ribs. It was powered by a 1965 Wizard(aka West bend aka Chrysler) 20 HP. This was plenty of power for fishing, though I am in the process of getting a new one (probabl;y a 25hp honda, yamaha, or Mercury). this will probably pull a skier ,maybe, maybe not, never tried. The boat is very stable, is plenty fast for fishing, even with three people, and is strong despite its age. As for trailering, what you got will pull it, (heck even a geo metro would pull it). Figure 250 pounds for the boat, 110 pounds about for the motor, 15 0for the trailer, 100 pounds for gear, 65 pounds for Golden Retriever, and your still under 1000 pounds. Ive pulled this setup with a ‘86 nissan Sentra, so what you got will definantly pull it.                                    Good Luck,                                            Nathan Spitzer Hi folks — I’m suffering from boat fever again, and I’d appreciate any input y’all would be willing to provide, on some pretty basic questions. A couple years ago bought a canoe — almost exclusively for freshwater fishing. Canoe’s aren’t terrific fishing platforms, and finally I sold it and bought a 12′ aluminum Jon boat, which I car-topped. All I could afford, along with an old Sears 5hp engine, which still gives me nightmares. This boat was better, but issues related to car-topping started to become problematic: Haul nasty, leaking engine down 3 flights of stairs, and put in the back seat. Go back for rods, tackle, paddle, anchor, cooler, trolling motor and *heavy* battery, a zillion other things, and load *that* somewhere in my car. Drive somewhere else where my boat was. Tie that on the roof. Scratch roof, getting careless trying to load the boat by myself. Drive to the lake. Do all of the above, in reverse. And that’s just getting in the water. Y’all probably get the idea — I should have bought a trailer, but I couldn’t afford one, at the time. So I finally sold that, too, a month ago. Enough rambling. I’m at a point where I’ve got a little more money, and would like a truly decent boat for fishing/recreation. First: Towing. This is a big issue, and I know nothing about it. I’ve got a 4dr, FWD Saturn with 100k+ miles. I recall the owner’s manual saying something about 1k lbs max, but….? Is that realistic? Were I to buy a used 4-cyl truck, something like an S-10, or Nissan, or Toyota, would this dramatically increase my towing capacity? Are there any web-sites devoted to this — I sure haven’t found much, searching. Second: I’ve seen some ads for "hulls only" for things like 13′ Whalers, and Carolina Skiffs and such. Exactly what would be involved dressing ‘em up for a fishing boat, with enough power to tow the infrequent skier? I’m not entirely inept with common tools, but I’m not sure if this is really a job for the the casual handyman, or if it would cost more than a used boat in the same configuration — ie, center console, a couple seats. Also, would a motor sufficient to pull a skier (nothing fancy, just adequate) + boat + trailer start to get well over anything I could possibly tow with my car or a light-truck? *Roughly*, and I know this is an extremely technical issue in and of itself, but how many HP are we talking about for the above, anyway? 40? 50? 60, minimum? The thing is, I’ve seen old MFG’s and stuff, with ancient, but large OB’s, in the price range I’m looking at. They look heavy as *hell*, and also I have no idea if they’d even run a single season. I’ve seen newish Skiffs with smaller engines (ie, 25hp), that do look light enough to pull with my current car, but I can’t imagine they could get a skier out of the water, and I might be considerably deceived by appearance — they could be quite heavy, too, in reality. Is there any magic combination out there? I could put a hitch on my Saturn and get another, larger Jon boat, but I don’t really want to settle for a compromise, again. I’d rather work for another year or two, and be able to afford something else. Anyway, I’ve babbled enough — any thoughts (to the group’s fine) would sure be appreciated. Steve

Response:

Hi folks — I’m suffering from boat fever again, and I’d appreciate any input y’all would be willing to provide, on some pretty basic questions. A couple years ago bought a canoe — almost exclusively for freshwater fishing. Canoe’s aren’t terrific fishing platforms, and finally I sold it and bought a 12′ aluminum Jon boat, which I car-topped. All I could afford, along with an old Sears 5hp engine, which still gives me nightmares. This boat was better, but issues related to car-topping started to become problematic: Haul nasty, leaking engine down 3 flights of stairs, and put in the back seat. Go back for rods, tackle, paddle, anchor, cooler, trolling motor and *heavy* battery, a zillion other things, and load *that* somewhere in my car. Drive somewhere else where my boat was. Tie that on the roof. Scratch roof, getting careless trying to load the boat by myself. Drive to the lake. Do all of the above, in reverse. And that’s just getting in the water. Y’all probably get the idea — I should have bought a trailer, but I couldn’t afford one, at the time. So I finally sold that, too, a month ago. Enough rambling. I’m at a point where I’ve got a little more money, and would like a truly decent boat for fishing/recreation. First: Towing. This is a big issue, and I know nothing about it. I’ve got a 4dr, FWD Saturn with 100k+ miles. I recall the owner’s manual saying something about 1k lbs max, but….? Is that realistic? Were I to buy a used 4-cyl truck, something like an S-10, or Nissan, or Toyota, would this dramatically increase my towing capacity? Are there any web-sites devoted to this — I sure haven’t found much, searching. Second: I’ve seen some ads for "hulls only" for things like 13′ Whalers, and Carolina Skiffs and such. Exactly what would be involved dressing ‘em up for a fishing boat, with enough power to tow the infrequent skier? I’m not entirely inept with common tools, but I’m not sure if this is really a job for the the casual handyman, or if it would cost more than a used boat in the same configuration — ie, center console, a couple seats. Also, would a motor sufficient to pull a skier (nothing fancy, just adequate) + boat + trailer start to get well over anything I could possibly tow with my car or a light-truck? *Roughly*, and I know this is an extremely technical issue in and of itself, but how many HP are we talking about for the above, anyway? 40? 50? 60, minimum? The thing is, I’ve seen old MFG’s and stuff, with ancient, but large OB’s, in the price range I’m looking at. They look heavy as *hell*, and also I have no idea if they’d even run a single season. I’ve seen newish Skiffs with smaller engines (ie, 25hp), that do look light enough to pull with my current car, but I can’t imagine they could get a skier out of the water, and I might be considerably deceived by appearance — they could be quite heavy, too, in reality. Is there any magic combination out there? I could put a hitch on my Saturn and get another, larger Jon boat, but I don’t really want to settle for a compromise, again. I’d rather work for another year or two, and be able to afford something else. Anyway, I’ve babbled enough — any thoughts (to the group’s fine) would sure be appreciated. Steve

Response:

It sounds like you want a setup like I got. The boats a 16 foot 1968 Duracraft Aluminum boat. The boat is heavy duty (not a sears special!!!), waying in at about 250 pounds. Its welded at the seems and then has rivited ribs. It was powered by a 1965 Wizard(aka West bend aka Chrysler) 20 HP. This was plenty of power for fishing, though I am in the process of getting a new one (probabl;y a 25hp honda, yamaha, or Mercury). this will probably pull a skier ,maybe, maybe not, never tried. The boat is very stable, is plenty fast for fishing, even with three people, and is strong despite its age. As for trailering, what you got will pull it, (heck even a geo metro would pull it). Figure 250 pounds for the boat, 110 pounds about for the motor, 15 0for the trailer, 100 pounds for gear, 65 pounds for Golden Retriever, and your still under 1000 pounds. Ive pulled this setup with a ‘86 nissan Sentra, so what you got will definantly pull it.                                         Good Luck,                                                 Nathan Spitzer – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -Hi folks — I’m suffering from boat fever again, and I’d appreciate any input y’all would be willing to provide, on some pretty basic questions. A couple years ago bought a canoe — almost exclusively for freshwater fishing. Canoe’s aren’t terrific fishing platforms, and finally I sold it and bought a 12′ aluminum Jon boat, which I car-topped. All I could afford, along with an old Sears 5hp engine, which still gives me nightmares. This boat was better, but issues related to car-topping started to become problematic: Haul nasty, leaking engine down 3 flights of stairs, and put in the back seat. Go back for rods, tackle, paddle, anchor, cooler, trolling motor and *heavy* battery, a zillion other things, and load *that* somewhere in my car. Drive somewhere else where my boat was. Tie that on the roof. Scratch roof, getting careless trying to load the boat by myself. Drive to the lake. Do all of the above, in reverse. And that’s just getting in the water. Y’all probably get the idea — I should have bought a trailer, but I couldn’t afford one, at the time. So I finally sold that, too, a month ago. Enough rambling. I’m at a point where I’ve got a little more money, and would like a truly decent boat for fishing/recreation. First: Towing. This is a big issue, and I know nothing about it. I’ve got a 4dr, FWD Saturn with 100k+ miles. I recall the owner’s manual saying something about 1k lbs max, but….? Is that realistic? Were I to buy a used 4-cyl truck, something like an S-10, or Nissan, or Toyota, would this dramatically increase my towing capacity? Are there any web-sites devoted to this — I sure haven’t found much, searching. Second: I’ve seen some ads for "hulls only" for things like 13′ Whalers, and Carolina Skiffs and such. Exactly what would be involved dressing ‘em up for a fishing boat, with enough power to tow the infrequent skier? I’m not entirely inept with common tools, but I’m not sure if this is really a job for the the casual handyman, or if it would cost more than a used boat in the same configuration — ie, center console, a couple seats. Also, would a motor sufficient to pull a skier (nothing fancy, just adequate) + boat + trailer start to get well over anything I could possibly tow with my car or a light-truck? *Roughly*, and I know this is an extremely technical issue in and of itself, but how many HP are we talking about for the above, anyway? 40? 50? 60, minimum? The thing is, I’ve seen old MFG’s and stuff, with ancient, but large OB’s, in the price range I’m looking at. They look heavy as *hell*, and also I have no idea if they’d even run a single season. I’ve seen newish Skiffs with smaller engines (ie, 25hp), that do look light enough to pull with my current car, but I can’t imagine they could get a skier out of the water, and I might be considerably deceived by appearance — they could be quite heavy, too, in reality. Is there any magic combination out there? I could put a hitch on my Saturn and get another, larger Jon boat, but I don’t really want to settle for a compromise, again. I’d rather work for another year or two, and be able to afford something else. Anyway, I’ve babbled enough — any thoughts (to the group’s fine) would sure be appreciated. Steve

Response:

Question:

Flyfishing has without question introduced me to some of my best friends.  People whom, without the glue of our gentle sport, would most likely never have gotten the opportunity to know one another.  I think this, more than most else, is what I am most grateful for as I think back on the countless seasons spent on lake, stream and river; the thousands of hours on the road chasing our fishes; the many many campfires that always seem to end up too large.         This quality of flyfishing, it’s universal appeal to those so inclined – to bring us to a point where sharing opinions on any topic becomes as easy and comfortable as discussing what fly to use, this I feel is my

Response:

        I’d have to agree with you on what flyfishing can do for a soul, and I’ll throw in another: those other fishermen I have met and helped, or met and been helped by, never to be seen again. Sharing moments never to be shared again, but never to be forgotten. There are a lot of GOOD people out there and its nice to meet them in some of the finest places on earth.

Response:

Question:

Hi All, This most certainly has been discussed before, so forgive any repetition. I currently have a pair of rubber coated canvas waders. Eventually these will fail and need replacement…at least that’s what I tell my wife . So far they have held up through two seasons, but you never know…. Does anyone have experience with 5mm vs 3mm neoprene waders? Specifically, what is the durability difference between the two (if any)? Is one more prone to pinhole leaks than the other? What about heat retention? Fishing here in Georgia, we have a much longer warm season than say, Montana, so insulation is not as big a factor. What about fishing from a float tube..wouldn’t the neoprene be better than the canvas? (looking for purchase justification here!! ) Thanks in advance, –John        John Carney          Fly Fisher & Parrot Head

Response:

Fishing here in Georgia, we have a much longer warm season than say, Montana, so insulation is not as big a factor. What about fishing from a float tube..wouldn’t the neoprene be better than the canvas? (looking for purchase justification here!! )

Hell in GA I’d skip the neoprene and go for the Gortex.  I would think that the heat would be more of a problem than the cold.  5mm are very very warm, Xmas of 95, I was in a river with 6" of ice and was comfortable.  They’d probably cook you in Dixie!!! jg

Response:

Does anyone have experience with 5mm vs 3mm neoprene waders? Specifically, what is the durability difference between the two (if any)?

I’ve been using 3mm Simms neoprenes for several years now.  They have remained warm and flexible.  Whatever brand you buy, spend a little more than you can afford. Is one more prone to pinhole leaks than the other?

Pinholes don’t seem to be the main problem, rather leaks at seams, especially when you do a lot of tubing in them. What about heat retention? Fishing here in Georgia, we have a much longer warm season than say, Montana, so insulation is not as big a factor.

3mm keep me good and warm, but early in the season I do wear some Thermax bibs.  During warm season a pair of light thermal pants or silks will help keep you from getting too clammy from sweat.  I got the thinner neoprenes because I figure I can always add extra insulation when it’s cold, but you can’t reduce the insulation of a 5mm wader when it’s hot. What about fishing from a float tube..wouldn’t the neoprene be better than the canvas? (looking for purchase justification here!! )

Even in high summer tubing gets cold, because all the heat eventually gets leeched away, no matter what you’re wearing.  I find that I can last about 3-4 hours at a stretch in 50 degree water before I have to get out and warm up and take a leak.  Only problem I’ve had with neoprenes in my tube is some slight leaking as the seams stretch because I sit in the tube, and the slight chaffing on the upper thigh where the neoprene rubs against the material of the tube. Anglerboy

Response:

This most certainly has been discussed before, so forgive any repetition. I currently have a pair of rubber coated canvas waders. Eventually these will fail and need replacement…at least that’s what I tell my wife . So far they have held up through two seasons, but you never know…. Does anyone have experience with 5mm vs 3mm neoprene waders? Specifically, what is the durability difference between the two (if any)? Is one more prone to pinhole leaks than the other? What about heat retention? Fishing here in Georgia, we have a much longer warm season than say, Montana, so insulation is not as big a factor. What about fishing from a float tube..wouldn’t the neoprene be better than the canvas? (looking for purchase justification here!! )

Hi John, The 3 mil waders will do everything you want them to down to water temperatures of ~42.  Usually below 42 degrees I have to put some mid weight synthetic longs on underneath them.  Above that I use the lightweight synthetic longs to keep any moisture off my skin and keep it between my longs and the waders.  The 3 mil neoprenes will give you the flexibility  you want and the comfort while float tubing.  Take a llok at the Orvis Hi-back 3mil neoprenes ($225) or the bare bones version the Clearwater neoprenes ($98). If it is usually hot most of the time you are fishing, you should check out the breathable waders.  Orvis makes two models.  The No-Sweat wader for $305 which feature a brushed micro-fiber outer fabric, knee pads, and a floating heel (easier to fit various shoe sizes)on the neoprene foot.  They just came out this year with the Clearwater No-Sweat waders for $165.  They are made out of a tightly woven nylon outer fabric, have the standard type of neoprene foot and no knee pads.  Not quite as durable as the premium No-Sweats, but covered with the same guarantee (4 years) and about 1/2 the price of other breathable waders.  Keep in mind that the breathable waders offer no insulation of their own and they don’t stretch.  As long as you layer accordingly underneath for colder weather they are fine, and nothing is more comfortable on a hot day.                          Hope this helps,                                  Dan Dan Gracia Orvis West Coast Fly Fishing Schools

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– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -Hi All, This most certainly has been discussed before, so forgive any repetition. I currently have a pair of rubber coated canvas waders. Eventually these will fail and need replacement…at least that’s what I tell my wife . So far they have held up through two seasons, but you never know…. Does anyone have experience with 5mm vs 3mm neoprene waders? Specifically, what is the durability difference between the two (if any)? Is one more prone to pinhole leaks than the other? What about heat retention? Fishing here in Georgia, we have a much longer warm season than say, Montana, so insulation is not as big a factor. What about fishing from a float tube..wouldn’t the neoprene be better than the canvas? (looking for purchase justification here!! ) Thanks in advance, –John       John Carney         Fly Fisher & Parrot Head

Hi John, The 3mm neoprene is the standard in the industry with 5mm being more durable, warmer and less flexible. For serious float-tubers, 5mm will hold up longer. Gor-Tex is coming on very strong, as this will be the year of the breathable Gor-Tex wader. Bill Kiene Kiene’s Fly Shop Sacramento,CA,USA 800/4000FLY

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I have been fishing with Orvis Clearwater Gortex waders this year in Minnesota.  Yesterday I went out and it was 15 degrees.  I wore my waders with fleece pants and long underwear.  It was toasty.  In the summer I know they will be a thosand times more comfortable than the 2mm neoprenes I had before. Mike H

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To this thread specifically. I have used Body Glove 5mm’s for the last 8 years. Got some cheap Hodgman 3mm’s for Christmas.   Wished I’d of had the 5mm’s on saturday.  Toes got cold for the first time in 8 years.  They were dry, but cold. Summer heat, the 3s’ll be a godsend. — TimW Halfordian Golfer

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Question:

I am rebuilding a 7wt and need a handle, prefer one with a small fighting butt,  Thanks, Jay

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I am rebuilding a 7wt and need a handle, prefer one with a small fighting butt,  Thanks, Jay

Hi Jay, The River’s Edge in Bozeman carries a good line of rod building components include Sage second blanks.  You can call them at 406-586-5373.  Good Luck. — Tight Lines Al Beatty BT’s Fly Fishing Products Bozeman, MT (97 catalog) http://www.flyshop.com/Expo/Specialty/BTsPdcts/index.html

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Question:

I will be in Anchorage 1 – 4 Aug 96.  I have two choices. First choice is floating down Lake Creek and fishing for Silvers.  Second choice is fishing the Keni. I am the only flyfisher in the bunch and my partners have no idea what type of fly I should be tying.  I need to start tying now so any suggestions on patterns and sizes would be apprecitated.   Thanks,         John

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I will be in Anchorage 1 – 4 Aug 96.  I have two choices. First choice is floating down Lake Creek and fishing for Silvers.  Second choice is fishing the Keni. I am the only flyfisher in the bunch and my partners have no idea what type of fly I should be tying.  I need to start tying now so any suggestions on patterns and sizes would be apprecitated.   Thanks,        John

xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx xxxxxxxxxx John…. I have been up in Anchorage several time at an area called Bulchitna. It is a lake and stream  on a tributary (sp) of Lake creek.  August may be just a little ealy for silvers, but if you want some good fishing and if the silvers are up, I would go to Bulchitna.  You can get a cabin on the lake (rustic cabin), with the stream 50 yards behind the cabin.  Lots of Pinks, rainbows, grayling, and silver (when running), and pike in the lake.  Call Craig Ketchum of Ketchum Air Service.  I don’t have the number with me right now, but they have an 800 number which you can get from the 800 operator.  Just as for Ketchum Air Service in Anchorage. Ketchum has lots of places they will fly you out to.  You can fish from 5:30am til 10:30pm.  I know that for a fact.  Who eats when you can fish! Contact me for more info. Russ….

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I will be in Anchorage 1 – 4 Aug 96.  I have two choices. First choice is floating down Lake Creek and fishing for Silvers.  Second choice is fishing the Keni. I am the only flyfisher in the bunch and my partners have no idea what type of fly I should be tying.  I need to start tying now so any suggestions on patterns and sizes would be apprecitated.   Thanks,         John

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I will be in Anchorage 1 – 4 Aug 96.  I have two choices. First choice is floating down Lake Creek and fishing for Silvers.  Second choice is fishing the Keni. I am the only flyfisher in the bunch and my partners have no idea what type of fly I should be tying.  I need to start tying now so any suggestions on patterns and sizes would be apprecitated.   Thanks,        John

I’d tie wooly buggers, egg-sucking leeches, large egg patterns, and flashy streamers on 1/0 to #4 hooks.  The best all-around fly in Alaska is probably the egg sucking leech in purple/Iliamna pinky.   BTW you didn’t ask but: Lake Creek float trip = nice wilderness experience, some mild whitewater, (WW1 – WW3) and good fishing.  There will be some , grayling, RBTs and some tired Kings.  It might be a bit early for Silvers in the upper river but you should run into them in the lower part. Kenai = lots of people, (although the King Salmon crowds are gone) and Aug. 1 – 4 is too early for Kenai Silvers.  They hit their stride in early September.  May be some late run Reds around in the upper drainages, (albeit a bit tired.) R. Wood in Alaska

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Question:

Will be in Lake Almanor, No. CA area end of May.  Any suggestions on good streams, patterns, etc.? Sincerely, William Collins

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Will be in Lake Almanor, No. CA area end of May.  Any suggestions on good streams, patterns, etc.? Sincerely, William Collins

Hi-    You might go 10 miles downstream to Butt Lake. PG&E is draining it and the fish will be concentrated. They might also be dead, but hey, it’ll be worth a shot.    Failing that you can go Yellow Creek, a cute but highly over rated spring creek a few miles west of Almanor.    Lake Almanor itself should be good. The smallmouth should be turned on. Fish the rocky points with buggers. As an added bonus you can "accidently" whack jet skiers with your backcasts. Great fun.    -Ralph —

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