Question:

central PA. Third week of July. Need guide and/or boat rental info,

http://www.billsguideservice.com/ RichZ

Question:

Woolly Buggers. Weighted, fished slow and deep… /daytripper – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -What is the recommended Fly for the Winter Months in the Northeast for Brown Trout?

Response:

I like to use a bead head green cadis larvae in PA – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – What is the recommended Fly for the Winter Months in the Northeast for Brown Trout?

Response:

What is the recommended Fly for the Winter Months in the Northeast for Brown Trout?

Response:

There are many different patterns that are used for Browns in the Northeast.  One that I really like is the Glo-bug.  There are many Creeks that have spawnig fish such as Steelhead during the winter months.  A Glo-bug is always a good bet for winter fishing. Good Luck, Forrest Forrest http://www.FlyFishingREVIEW.com FlyFishingREVIEW.com Before you buy.

Response:

Question:

Well, just back from my first casting lesson – very informative and useful.  some comments that may be of use to others: EVERY newbie should take a course – even one like mine at $50.00 for three hours, just to learn the basics, and rub shoulders with those who are experienced.  I learned just as much after the class just listening to the shop conversation as I did on the field. I had purchased an 8-wt. Fenwick HMG for stripers and salmon here in the Sacramento Delta.  After the instructor threw a few lines with it, he pronounced it to be a "gun" more like a 10-weight, and should be rigged and used accordingly.  (the rest of the class were using borrowed Sage 6-wts.)  I also learned you need a large capacity reel for anything much over a 7-weight, so if you are buying equipment, keep that in mind.   While I read books and watched videos, it did not compare with one-on-one instruction from someone watching your hand, wrist, arm and cast.  After the field instruction, we went back to the shop for a rigging lesson, learning knots from butt to leader to tippet to fly. And, a great tip – carry a map book with you everywhere – put it in your truck.  when someone tells you about a neat spot to fish, get the map, and get the exact location. Thanks to all, and I will see you on the river (after I get a reel and a sinking line setup…) Bill — William J. Kelly River Communications "We help business communicate" PO Box 691 Rio Vista, CA 94571 707-374-5816 www.thegrid.net/kelly

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Well, just back from my first casting lesson – very informative and useful.  some comments that may be of use to others: EVERY newbie should take a course – even one like mine at $50.00 for three hours, just to learn the basics, and rub shoulders with those who are experienced.  I learned just as much after the class just listening to the shop conversation as I did on the field. I had purchased an 8-wt. Fenwick HMG for stripers and salmon here in the Sacramento Delta.  After the instructor threw a few lines with it, he pronounced it to be a "gun" more like a 10-weight, and should be rigged and used accordingly.  (the rest of the class were using borrowed Sage 6-wts.)  I also learned you need a large capacity reel for anything much over a 7-weight, so if you are buying equipment, keep that in mind. While I read books and watched videos, it did not compare with one-on-one instruction from someone watching your hand, wrist, arm and cast.  After the field instruction, we went back to the shop for a rigging lesson, learning knots from butt to leader to tippet to fly. And, a great tip – carry a map book with you everywhere – put it in your truck.  when someone tells you about a neat spot to fish, get the map, and get the exact location. Thanks to all, and I will see you on the river (after I get a reel and a sinking line setup…) Bill — William J. Kelly River Communications "We help business communicate" PO Box 691 Rio Vista, CA 94571 707-374-5816 www.thegrid.net/kelly

I’ve been flyfishing for about 8 years now and most (99%) of my casting skill is self taught. Though last year as I was talking to one of my local flyshop owners ( 1 shop, 2 owners), I asked him what they charged for a casting lesson. He grabbed a rod and took me outside and gave me one for free. They’ll give anyone one for free. The last time I talked to him (last Saturday night) he invited me to go fishing with him sometime soon. I jumped on that one as I’ve been looking to fish w/ someone with more experience than me. The trip isn’t planned out yet but you can bet it will be soon, I can’t wait. This guy normally charges money to fish with him. I guess being a regular in a small town shop has it’s privileges. Tight lines, Darin

Response:

Question:

I’ve attended two of last three Denver shows (‘95 & ‘97).  It’s going be a tough call as to which trade show to attend for 1998;  Denver or Salt Lake….Attending both can stretch a small budget.  I’m passing to see how this whole political matter shakes out. I received letters from both Orvis & Umpqua indicating they will not attend EITHER show.  The lists I’ve received about both shows’ attendees shows a heavier representation of the major rod companies at Salt Lake City Show.  My feeling is more people are favoring Salt Lake.

I’d say that Orvis doesn’t need to attend.  They have a huge network of shops, and lodges, and strong mail order operation.  They hardly need to do another show. Umpquah, I’m not so sure about.  While they still seem to be the number one supplier of flies, I can help but wonder about their solvency in the present market.  For instance, they used to have a web presence of sorts at flyfishers.com.  They now seem to be doing their site inhouse and it’s a real stinker.  A company like umpqua would be expected to leave such work to pros – highly paid ones – to ensure the highest quality.  Look at The winston and orvis sites – these are very well done sites and did not come cheap.  What’s up with Umpqua? A little trouble in paradise? </c

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I’ve attended two of last three Denver shows (‘95 & ‘97).  It’s going be a tough call as to which trade show to attend for 1998;  Denver or Salt Lake….Attending both can stretch a small budget.  I’m passing to see how this whole political matter shakes out. I received letters from both Orvis & Umpqua indicating they will not attend EITHER show.  The lists I’ve received about both shows’ attendees shows a heavier representation of the major rod companies at Salt Lake City Show.  My feeling is more people are favoring Salt Lake. I’d say that Orvis doesn’t need to attend.  They have a huge network of shops, and lodges, and strong mail order operation.  They hardly need to do another show. Umpquah, I’m not so sure about.  While they still seem to be the number one supplier of flies, I can help but wonder about their solvency in the present market.  For instance, they used to have a web presence of sorts at flyfishers.com.  They now seem to be doing their site inhouse and it’s a real stinker.  A company like umpqua would be expected to leave such work to pros – highly paid ones – to ensure the highest quality.  Look at The winston and orvis sites – these are very well done sites and did not come cheap.  What’s up with Umpqua? A little trouble in paradise? </c

      Yes, it’s my understanding they’ve been bought out.                                                             John Popp                                                        in Sanford Fl.

Response:

Jon—You’re correct,  Umpqua has been purchased by an investment group.  I’m sure their main focus is ROI & Dennis Black is happily retired.  I looked for the hard copy letter they sent to their accounts in making the official anouncement about 5-6 months ago …but couldn’t find it to relay the name of the group. This is what’s been going on in the industry the last few years;  Sage, Scott, Powell etc. to name a few.  Some of the groups are knowldgeable about the industry & some don’t seem to be that well intuned.  Nevertheless they’re business people & put in place execs who are business oriented…which is the way it should be if the focus is ROI.  Ideally, they should be both flyfishng savy & business keen.  Just like everything else…mergers, buy-outs downsizing etc…maybe the industry needs this movement to stay healthy. As for the two shows;  I feel there’s a lot of politics, money & super-egos involved.  It’ll be interesting to observe what transpires.  But I feel the small, independent fly shop is put in a difficult decision mode. CyberFly

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – <snip Umpquah, I’m not so sure about.  While they still seem to be the number one supplier of flies, I can help but wonder about their solvency in the present market.  For instance, they used to have a web presence of sorts at flyfishers.com.  They now seem to be doing their site inhouse and it’s a real stinker.  A company like umpqua would be expected to leave such work to pros – highly paid ones – to ensure the highest quality.  Look at The winston and orvis sites – these are very well done sites and did not come cheap.  What’s up with Umpqua? A little trouble in paradise? </c       Yes, it’s my understanding they’ve been bought out.                                                             John Popp                                                        in Sanford Fl.

Really?  Who, I wonder? If true,it’s not too much of a surprise.  UFM has been plagued with all sorts of internal trouble for years.  The principals may have had enough and packed it in.

Response:

Cyberfly — You raise an excellent question about the future of the business side of flyfishing. It doesn’t seem likely that the "industry" can support two shows. I was surprised to learn that some of the most respected pros in the business are going to the Salt Lake show. I think this is just one more sign that the business side of flyfishing is in for some major shakeups in the immediate future. It’ll be interesting to watch. One of the things I wish for is a company to come along that offers an excellent lightweight saltwater flyrod for $200. BobE. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I’ve attended two of last three Denver shows (‘95 & ‘97).  It’s going be a tough call as to which trade show to attend for 1998;  Denver or Salt Lake….Attending both can stretch a small budget.  I’m passing to see how this whole political matter shakes out. I received letters from both Orvis & Umpqua indicating they will not attend EITHER show.  The lists I’ve received about both shows’ attendees shows a heavier representation of the major rod companies at Salt Lake City Show.  My feeling is more people are favoring Salt Lake. CyberFly

Response:

I’ve attended two of last three Denver shows (‘95 & ‘97).  It’s going be a tough call as to which trade show to attend for 1998;  Denver or Salt Lake….Attending both can stretch a small budget.  I’m passing to see how this whole political matter shakes out. I received letters from both Orvis & Umpqua indicating they will not attend EITHER show.  The lists I’ve received about both shows’ attendees shows a heavier representation of the major rod companies at Salt Lake City Show.  My feeling is more people are favoring Salt Lake. CyberFly

Response:

Question:

Can anyone tell me the EASIEST way to tie my fly to the leader?  I’m new to the sport and have all thumbs!            Thanks,    Dee

Deanna, I didn’t see the original post, so this may knot be applicable if you’re into  freshwater trout: Being adverse to labor as I am, I install a loop (whip finnish) in the end of my fly lines. Or if a dealer installs it, I have had a short butt section attached by a nail not and loop the end of the butt. ( I don’t like the nail knot version much , experienced breakoffs on bigger fish.)  I assemble all my leaders with bimini twist (not an easy knot) end loops shortened by surgeons knots (easy knot) .  Anyway, this allows quick and easy loop to loop connections and fast leader changes. Get yourself a book on knots at the library. I found Lefty Krehs very handy. Best of luck, Gary C. "The only reason for time is so that everything doesn’t happen at once."  - Buckaroo Banzai

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<< Can anyone tell me the EASIEST way to tie my fly to the leader?  I’m new to the sport and have all thumbs!            Thanks,    Dee I hate to be a spoil-sport, but wouldn’t it be easier for the lady to go to her nearest fly-shop and ask the nice gentleman (lady?) behind the counter.  A picture is worth ten thousand words. Dave L.

Spoil Sport! — Tight Threads,         Charley Renn         Corvallis, OR

Response:

That trouble maker Charley Renn writes: << << Can anyone tell me the EASIEST way to tie my fly to the leader?  I’m  new to the sport and have all thumbs!            Thanks,    Dee I hate to be a spoil-sport, but wouldn’t it be easier for the lady to go to her nearest fly-shop and ask the nice gentleman (lady?) behind the counter.  A picture is worth ten thousand words. Dave L.

Spoil Sport! — Tight Threads,         Charley Renn         Corvallis, OR Dave L.

Response:

Hi R.A., that sounds like the knot I use, the Running Half Tangle? — Remove NOSPAM to send E-mail Ernie Harrison – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Can anyone tell me the EASIEST way to tie my fly to the leader?  I’m new to the sport and have all thumbs!            Thanks,    Dee Hi Dee, I use a really simple knot…can’t remember its name…will try to describe how to tie it: 1.  Thread the tippet through the eye of your fly, so that around a foot of tippet is sticking out from the hook eye. 2.  Let go of the fly for now. 3.  form a loop with the tippett material, about 4 inches in diameter 4.  tie an "overhand knot" around the tippet.  You should now have a "slip knot" and a 4" loop in your tippett. 5.  reach through this loop with your thumb and forefinger, grasping the fly further down on your line, and pull the fly back through the loop. 6.  Using your fingers to hold back the hackle, snug down the knot, removing the loop, and trim the tag end. This knot is quite strong, and I use it for all dries/wets/and nymphs from size 10 to 22.  For streamers or larger flies, I use an improved clinch knot.   Hope you can decipher the instructions! Regards, R.A. Skehan

Response:

<< Can anyone tell me the EASIEST way to tie my fly to the leader?  I’m new to the sport and have all thumbs!            Thanks,    Dee

I hate to be a spoil-sport, but wouldn’t it be easier for the lady to go to her nearest fly-shop and ask the nice gentleman (lady?) behind the counter.  A picture is worth ten thousand words. Dave L.

Response:

Can anyone tell me the EASIEST way to tie my fly to the leader?  I’m new to the sport and have all thumbs!            Thanks,    Dee

Hi Dee, I use a really simple knot…can’t remember its name…will try to describe how to tie it: 1.  Thread the tippet through the eye of your fly, so that around a foot of tippet is sticking out from the hook eye. 2.  Let go of the fly for now. 3.  form a loop with the tippett material, about 4 inches in diameter 4.  tie an "overhand knot" around the tippet.  You should now have a "slip knot" and a 4" loop in your tippett. 5.  reach through this loop with your thumb and forefinger, grasping the fly further down on your line, and pull the fly back through the loop. 6.  Using your fingers to hold back the hackle, snug down the knot, removing the loop, and trim the tag end. This knot is quite strong, and I use it for all dries/wets/and nymphs from size 10 to 22.  For streamers or larger flies, I use an improved clinch knot.   Hope you can decipher the instructions! Regards, R.A. Skehan

Response:

Can anyone tell me the EASIEST way to tie my fly to the leader?  I’m new to the sport and have all thumbs!            Thanks,    Dee

Response:

Question:

Stick with the hardwood patches for the planks.  Ignore the loose canvas unless it is peeling off.  (As long as it is well attached along the stems and gunwales.)  Sand lightly (wet or dry) being careful not to sand into the fabric.  Paint with marine grade paint: flat, semi, or gloss … your choice.  Classic Boatworks. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Howdy all!  I need some help here. I own a canvas-covered cedar ribbed canoe [Chestnut Prospector Fort Garry, circa 1970] in need of repairs and paint.  First, any books to recommend? I have borrowed Stelmok and Thurlow’s *The Wood & Canvas Canoe*.  Fine book and great for anybody wishing to restore a canvas canoe, but I would prefer not to "restore" the canoe.  Any other books? Specifically: Some of the planks are cracked.  My father in the past has placed small flat pieces of hard-wood over these cracks and held them in place with marine epoxy. Varnish then covers the works. It appears to have worked well over the years.  I might use small pieces of cedar instead.  I would prefer not to use sheet-metal and have to remove the ribs. The paint is cracked and peeled.  The canvas is a little loose in a couple of places.  Trail-Head in Ottawa painted the canoe for me in 1994 and frankly, I do not think they did a good job. I need to strip it all off and re-paint, I would assume.  How? Wet-and-dry sand paper?  Chemical?  If so, which chemical?  Should I remove the keel before removing the paint?  Use a semi-gloss finish as recommended by Stelmok and Thurlow? I do not believe that the canoe needs to re-canvased.  I use it presently to fly fish for kamloops trout in the Merritt/Kamloops area and it works fine. Cheers, Burnaby, BC

Response:

Check out the Wooden Canoe Heritage Association site and you’ll find all the help you can handle. Rich Briere – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -Howdy all!  I need some help here. I own a canvas-covered cedar ribbed canoe [Chestnut Prospector Fort Garry, circa 1970] in need of repairs and paint.  First, any books to recommend? I have borrowed Stelmok and Thurlow’s *The Wood & Canvas Canoe*.  Fine book and great for anybody wishing to restore a canvas canoe, but I would prefer not to "restore" the canoe.  Any other books? Specifically: Some of the planks are cracked.  My father in the past has placed small flat pieces of hard-wood over these cracks and held them in place with marine epoxy. Varnish then covers the works. It appears to have worked well over the years.  I might use small pieces of cedar instead.  I would prefer not to use sheet-metal and have to remove the ribs. The paint is cracked and peeled.  The canvas is a little loose in a couple of places.  Trail-Head in Ottawa painted the canoe for me in 1994 and frankly, I do not think they did a good job. I need to strip it all off and re-paint, I would assume.  How? Wet-and-dry sand paper?  Chemical?  If so, which chemical?  Should I remove the keel before removing the paint?  Use a semi-gloss finish as recommended by Stelmok and Thurlow? I do not believe that the canoe needs to re-canvased.  I use it presently to fly fish for kamloops trout in the Merritt/Kamloops area and it works fine. Cheers, Burnaby, BC

Response:

Howdy all!  I need some help here. I own a canvas-covered cedar ribbed canoe [Chestnut Prospector Fort Garry, circa 1970] in need of repairs and paint.  First, any books to recommend? I have borrowed Stelmok and Thurlow’s *The Wood & Canvas Canoe*.  Fine book and great for anybody wishing to restore a canvas canoe, but I would prefer not to "restore" the canoe.  Any other books?

This book is the "bible" of wood canvas canoe repair and restoration, so don’t be afraid of it. You don’t have to be doing a major restoration to appreciate the techniques and advice that the book has to offer. As for other books, there are books and articles available from and on the WCHA website that might be of some help to you. Specifically: Some of the planks are cracked.  My father in the past has placed small flat pieces of hard-wood over these cracks and held them in place with marine epoxy. Varnish then covers the works. It appears to have worked well over the years.  I might use small pieces of cedar instead.  I would prefer not to use sheet-metal and have to remove the ribs.

Don’t use metal. It’s ugly and not necessary. You can glue/screw on patches over cracked ribs as long as you don’t have too many in a row that are broken. Stain them the color of the wood and varnish over the whole area. It will work out fine.  If you decide to recanvas you may want to try a backside rib repair. This is detailed in a Wooden Canoe back issue available at the WCHA website. The paint is cracked and peeled.  The canvas is a little loose in a couple of places.  Trail-Head in Ottawa painted the canoe for me in 1994 and frankly, I do not think they did a good job.

If the canoe leaks, remember that painting will not help much. Leaks are caused by cracked filler, not cracked paint. The paint protects the filler and if this is cracked, your options are more limited. You can try to fill the cracks with bondo or something similar, but I generally take this as an indication that the canoe needs to be recanvassed. I need to strip it all off and re-paint, I would assume.  How? Wet-and-dry sand paper?  Chemical?  If so, which chemical?  Should I remove the keel before removing the paint?  Use a semi-gloss finish as recommended by Stelmok and Thurlow?

Chemical strippers may eat right through the filler, depending on the formula used. Sanding down to the filler is fine, but be sure not to sand too deeply and expose canvas weave or it’ll leak for sure.  Paint is your choice, but I use marine enamel. Semi-gloss tends to not show imperfections in the filler as gloss does, but many people use gloss paint to advantage. I do not believe that the canoe needs to re-canvased.  I use it presently to fly fish for kamloops trout in the Merritt/Kamloops area and it works fine.

Good, although canvassing is not all that tough. There are a couple of articles and back issues of Wooden Canoe that talk about it. Jerry and Rollin’s book also details it well. You can do it yourself for about $150 in materials and an afternoon’s worth of time. Enjoy your canoe. They make great friends. -Tim — Tim Hewitt – Webmaster Wooden Canoe Heritage Association, Ltd http://www.wcha.org

Response:

Howdy all!  I need some help here. I own a canvas-covered cedar ribbed canoe [Chestnut Prospector Fort Garry, circa 1970] in need of repairs and paint.  First, any books to recommend? I have borrowed Stelmok and Thurlow’s *The Wood & Canvas Canoe*.  Fine book and great for anybody wishing to restore a canvas canoe, but I would prefer not to "restore" the canoe.  Any other books? Specifically: Some of the planks are cracked.  My father in the past has placed small flat pieces of hard-wood over these cracks and held them in place with marine epoxy. Varnish then covers the works. It appears to have worked well over the years.  I might use small pieces of cedar instead.  I would prefer not to use sheet-metal and have to remove the ribs. The paint is cracked and peeled.  The canvas is a little loose in a couple of places.  Trail-Head in Ottawa painted the canoe for me in 1994 and frankly, I do not think they did a good job. I need to strip it all off and re-paint, I would assume.  How? Wet-and-dry sand paper?  Chemical?  If so, which chemical?  Should I remove the keel before removing the paint?  Use a semi-gloss finish as recommended by Stelmok and Thurlow? I do not believe that the canoe needs to re-canvased.  I use it presently to fly fish for kamloops trout in the Merritt/Kamloops area and it works fine. Cheers, Burnaby, BC

Response:

Question:

Does anyone know an e-mail address for Gary or Jason Borger? I would like to ask one of them a question about fly lines.

Don’t know an e-mail address, but if you look on the back of one of his videos you will find a phone number for his company.  I called them one time regarding availability of one of their titles and Gary answered the phone.  Worth a shot.  You can probably also reach him (although in a round about way) through Thomas & Thomas rods.                                                Dan Dan Gracia Orvis West Coast Fly Fishing Schools

Response:

Borger don’t post… — TimW Halfordian Golfer

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Borger don’t post… — TimW Halfordian Golfer

Who can blame him! Ralph H

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Jasons E-mail is listed at www.Flyfishamerica.com

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Borger don’t post… — TimW Halfordian Golfer Who can blame him!

all of us that do…for starters… — TimW Halfordian Golfer

Response:

Does anyone know an e-mail address for Gary or Jason Borger? I would like to ask one of them a question about fly lines. Thanks! Steve Rosenblum

Response:

  Does anyone know an e-mail address for Gary or Jason Borger? I would   like to ask one of them a question about fly lines.   Thanks!   Steve Rosenblum  Both can be reached through Flyfishers Online at www.flyfishers.com PFY

Response:

Question:

Any suggestions on reasonably accessible locations on the east side of RMNP?  I have a recollection of being on horseback and seeing a fly fisherman near a bridge that would have been the Bear Lake road crossing a small stream that runs up from YMCA of the Rockies into Moraine Park. This was before FFing for me so I wasn’t actively spotting sites.  Any help will be appreciated so the time my 12yo and I can pry away from rest of family can be spent on fishing, not looking for sites.

Response:

Steve, check out lilly lake, it is south of Estes Park on Peak to Peak highway. It was sold to the park about 4 years ago and was stocked with greenbacks,  last fall we were pulling 15-21inchers out….try an olive damsel fly, or a small olive midge just under the surface, Its a kick in the pants!   Also, at the end of horshoe park there is a small lake on the east side of fall river road, it doesn’t look like much, but it is packed with small brookies! a renegade will be all you need! – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Any suggestions on reasonably accessible locations on the east side of RMNP?  I have a recollection of being on horseback and seeing a fly fisherman near a bridge that would have been the Bear Lake road crossing a small stream that runs up from YMCA of the Rockies into Moraine Park. This was before FFing for me so I wasn’t actively spotting sites.  Any help will be appreciated so the time my 12yo and I can pry away from rest of family can be spent on fishing, not looking for sites.

Response:

Question:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -I recently had my 4-pc Sage 890 RPL replaced by Sage (with new blanks) because the finish was defective.  I had the blanks drop-shipped to the guy who made the first rod.  When he sent me the finished rod, he noted that the new "8-wt." had a huge butt section.  I got the rod back just as I was leaving for Belize, so i didn’t have a chance to look at it.   However, when I laid my rods out in the panga, I couldn’t tell the difference between the new 8-wt and my 4-pc 9-wt.RPLX.  The rod said 890 RPLB (B stood for blank, according to Sage).  I used the rod as an 8-wt for bones and truthfully can’t say if it was different from the original rod…other than the larger butt. Can anyone out there offer an explanation?  Sage told me to send them the rod, but I can’t do that as it is my favorite bassing rod at home (I’ll have to wait until the season ends). Adam

Hi Adam, The new RPL+’s have larger butts, faster action. Maybe you got the new one !! Great rod with power in the butt for more powerful casts. Dennis Grant Atlantic FLy Fishing SChool

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I recently had my 4-pc Sage 890 RPL replaced by Sage (with new blanks) because the finish was defective.  I had the blanks drop-shipped to the guy who made the first rod.  When he sent me the finished rod, he noted that the new "8-wt." had a huge butt section.  I got the rod back just as I was leaving for Belize, so i didn’t have a chance to look at it. However, when I laid my rods out in the panga, I couldn’t tell the difference between the new 8-wt and my 4-pc 9-wt.RPLX.  The rod said 890 RPLB (B stood for blank, according to Sage).  I used the rod as an 8-wt for bones and truthfully can’t say if it was different from the original rod…other than the larger butt. Can anyone out there offer an explanation?  Sage told me to send them the rod, but I can’t do that as it is my favorite bassing rod at home (I’ll have to wait until the season ends). Adam Hi Adam, The new RPL+’s have larger butts, faster action. Maybe you got the new one !! Great rod with power in the butt for more powerful casts. Dennis Grant Atlantic FLy Fishing SChool

Larger butts, power in the butt for more powerful cast…hmmmm…I need to get off this diet!

Response:

I recently had my 4-pc Sage 890 RPL replaced by Sage (with new blanks) because the finish was defective.  I had the blanks drop-shipped to the guy who made the first rod.  When he sent me the finished rod, he noted that the new "8-wt." had a huge butt section.  I got the rod back just as I was leaving for Belize, so i didn’t have a chance to look at it.   However, when I laid my rods out in the panga, I couldn’t tell the difference between the new 8-wt and my 4-pc 9-wt.RPLX.  The rod said 890 RPLB (B stood for blank, according to Sage).  I used the rod as an 8-wt for bones and truthfully can’t say if it was different from the original rod…other than the larger butt. Can anyone out there offer an explanation?  Sage told me to send them the rod, but I can’t do that as it is my favorite bassing rod at home (I’ll have to wait until the season ends). Adam

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Question:

I suspect the dye you used was a problem – too many salts or something else.  Try a pure acid dye, and after dying, make sure to rinse the heck out of the hide. Thomas Gilg

It was RIT DYE….

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writes: Rit dye gives fairly good results but tough colors like black Rit is not very good for fur or feathers. Of course there may be someone on the group who has good luck with Rit, my hats off to them

To get a good black with rit dye you need to add some brown dye to it. Now if I could only remember how much!                                                    Dan Dan Gracia                                                               Orvis West Coast Fly Fishing Schools If you kill that big fish you can’t catch ‘em again.  So what if they eat other fish?  If you kill the big ones there will only be little ones left (funny how that works!).

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