Question:

Its been a very wet, cold spring so far, here in Wisconsin. But I finally got a chance to fish some moving water. With the river in town still running high I decided to check out some smaller water about 45 minutes from Merrill. The forecast called for rain and thunderstorms in the late afternoon so I left home about 10 am. Ended up on the little stream I have nicknamed the "Mayfly", due its very strong and dependable hatches. It too was running high but not as bad as the Prairie.  Got suited up, set up the rod and waded in. The water felt cold through my waders and checking the temp I found that it was 50deg.. There was a strong south wind which was mitigated somewhat by the surrounding streamside brush. After watching the surface for risers and seeing none I tied on a #12 Gold Ribbed H.E. nymph. The fishing was very slow. Only one very small brookie took,in what usually is a sure fire stretch of riffles and glides.  Working my way upstream I noticed a few #18 BWOs coming off but no rises. Checked the temp again and found it was up to 52deg. (Aren’t new toys fun?)Tried a #18 Adams and didn’t get a look from the trout. Being too lazy to rerig for nymphs again I tied on a #14 Royal Trude and promptly caught two fish, the biggest being 9", about average for this water. Thought I had hit paydirt but then didn’t get another fish to even splash at the fly for several hundred more yards upstream.  As I approached a deep fast run that has given up large fish for me in the past I rigged up with a green yarn indicator supporting a GRHE nymph with a Copper John nymph for a dropper. Promptly found out that casting a leader with three attachments of different densities was a major challenge. For every two or three casts that I got off successfully there was one that tangled the flies and indicator together. No fish came from the run but just upstream I noticed a few Hendrickson mayflies struggling at the surface and then taking flight. Even better I began to pick up fish. Two 9" brookies in fine color came to hand on the GRHE. The Copper John was ignored.  The first splashy rises brought a change in terminal tackle again. A #14 Hendrickson was bent on but ignored by the fish. A brown emerger was tried but no luck. And it began to rain. There were still a few flies on the water but the rises had quit. Struggled into my rain gear (i.e. an emergency rain poncho aka glorified garbage bag with a hood).  Made the decision to head downstream for the car. Cinched on a #12 Hares Ear soft hackle. A few bumps and one small brookie later found me at the head of a small pool. Went to a Royal Coachman streamer. After a few casts I noticed a couple of quiet rises behind an alder branch across the stream from me. As I was lifting the streamer from the water there was a strong swirl and the biggest fish of the trip came to my net, an 11" brookie. The rises behind the alder had stopped but a couple of pools down saw another fish feeding. Tied on the Hendrickson again and a few casts later a brook trout responded to the float. At the tail of the pool there was a pod of fish feeding on the still sporadically hatching Hendricksons. Reached into my pocket to check the water temp and….came up empty. In my contortions to get into the cheap rain poncho I had knocked my new thermometer loose and it was lying somewhere upstream amongst the rocks and trout. Oh well, there were still fish to cast to. The Hendrickson took three more brookies on downstream drifts until another, harder rain shower put the fish down again. Almost back to the car, I tied on a Partridge and Green soft hackle (with flourescent green floss for the abdomen) and immediately hooked the hottest fish of the trip, a fast, jumping 10" brown. A few yards farther down brought its twin to hand. With the rain coming even harder, thunder in the distance and a deadline in town I decided to call it a day. Other than the lost thermometer it was a most successful first day on the water. No big fish but enough action to keep me satisfied with my efforts.  And, as usual, the "Mayfly" lived up to its nickname. G.Cleveland

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Its been a very wet, cold spring so far, here in Wisconsin. But I

<SNIP Very nice report, of what sounds like a very nice trip. Most enjoyable. TL MV

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Question:

Hi, Due to a disability, I need a fly reel (freshwater) with as large of a diameter as possible.  My budget is small – less than $100.  Can anyone recommend an affordable one with an adjustable drag.  If so, maybe even a web site where I can see it and order it online…… Thank you very much, Bruce

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Hi, Due to a disability, I need a fly reel (freshwater) with as large of a diameter as possible.  My budget is small – less than $100.  Can anyone recommend an affordable one with an adjustable drag.  If so, maybe even a web site where I can see it and order it online…… Thank you very much, Bruce

Bruce, the Okuma Integrity 5/6 may fit your needs…. http://www.ezflyfish.com/okin56flyree.html Tight Lines, –Walt Fly Fishing NC & more… http://www.ezflyfish.com http://www.wilsoncreekoutfitters.com

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Yeah I know.  Sorry for the slight "brain fart"…..lol – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -Just FYI, that is large *arbor*, not large *diameter* – not sure if that’s exactly what Bruce meant.

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Hi Bruce, Go to the Orvis web site:    www.orvis.com Click on "FLYFISHING" Click on "FLY REELS" Take a look at the Orvis Rocky Mountain Large Arbor fly reel that is around $75US and made in England.

Just FYI, that is large *arbor*, not large *diameter* – not sure if that’s exactly what Bruce meant.

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Hi Bruce, Go to the Orvis web site:    www.orvis.com Click on "FLYFISHING" Click on "FLY REELS" Take a look at the Orvis Rocky Mountain Large Arbor fly reel that is around $75US and made in England. — Bill Kiene Kiene’s Fly Shop Sacramento, CA, USA www.kiene.com

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Hi, Due to a disability, I need a fly reel (freshwater) with as large of a diameter as possible.  My budget is small – less than $100.  Can anyone recommend an affordable one with an adjustable drag.  If so, maybe even a web site where I can see it and order it online…… Thank you very much, Bruce

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Hi, Due to a disability, I need a fly reel (freshwater) with as large of a diameter as possible.  My budget is small – less than $100.  Can anyone recommend an affordable one with an adjustable drag.  If so, maybe even a web site where I can see it and order it online…… Thank you very much, Bruce

A Campbell’s Creamy Chicken Noodle Soup Can.  Cost:  .69 Cents. : )

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Question:

Tell Charlie and the others to be more respectful in the future and you will see all this nonsense disappear from this point on.

Just when you thought they couldn’t get funnier… — Charlie…

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____  I can take ass chewing when its justified, but you like everyone else don’t do your homework.  Why don’t you go back to the beginning and realize that I don’t take anyone on unless they attack me unjustly. That has been the case every time.  Check the treads Tom. If what you say about Wayne is true, then I’ve been duped by him and now you. Frankly, your attack on me is also off base.  Roff has turned into a vile place and has been needing a moderator for several years now.  I can assure you, starting from scratch, I’d be the last one a moderator would need to correct. If there is correcting to do, I’d say you’re off base on this one.  If you go back and TAKE INVENTORY my friend, you will see that it was Wayne that started writing dribble to me when in fact up to that point I never did that and if so in the past, it was so minor as to be just humorous and friendly barbs about lawyers.   Go back and check Tom.  If you dare.  I never attacked Wayne because he never provoked me until the posts prior to my challenge on what possibly could cause a reasonable man to say the things he said.  Consider this. If anyone in the future, from this POINT on . . . smart mouths me, which I won’t instigate, you take note of it pal.  I don’t call you Brownie, I don’t demean your name, I don’t call you any kind of names and I’ve always treated you with respect.  But when you come charging at me fighting other people’s battles which THEY start, then I say you’re sticking your nose where it doesn’t belong and you do not know the treads or those who start them. So, politely leave me alone regarding retorts.  I’m not here to impress you or to talk ill of you.  I would do that in private.  So you and the other feeding sharks who have no idea what the hell you’re doing, should do your home work before you. Again, from this point on, read the posts Tom before you get on my case.  I’m the the bad guy here.  Tell Charlie and the others to be more respectful in the future and you will see all this nonsense disappear from this point on. Let’s see, who throws the first stone after you Tom. I promise, it is never me. Get back to fly fishing everyone and clean up your acts before you start trying to correct me.  And don’t dig up old stuff out of context.  That also doesn’t fly anymore as it is self serving and those NEVER show the instigators I have challenged. Lately, do me a favor Tom.  Do everyone here a favor.  If EVER anyone demeans anyone in the slightest way, why don’t you point that out immediately in the future?   You be a test moderator and let’s see who gets to 10 points first. Think about it. Again, I’m not the bad guy here. Okay? — George G. Bastard Bamboo Fly Rods http://www.gink.com/ http://www.gink.com/chat

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Again, from this point on, read the posts Tom before you get on my case.  I’m the the bad guy here.   Again, I’m not the bad guy here. Okay?

so which is it?  bad or not bad? <G cb

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Question:

    I have an old bamboo pole that was given to me.  It is about 9 to 10′ two piece pole with a single eyelet on the end.  It doesn’t have a handle on it or any mounts for a reel.     I’m curioius of what kind of pole it is and If it is worth anything.

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   I have an old bamboo pole that was given to me.  It is about 9 to 10′ two piece pole with a single eyelet on the end.  It doesn’t have a handle on it or any mounts for a reel.    I’m curioius of what kind of pole it is and If it is worth anything.

Hi Andrew, That pole is for ‘tule dippen’. You put about 8 to 10′ of heavy line on the eyelet with a bobber and hook. Install some protein (i.e.worm) and swing it out on to the water. When the bobber goes under, light up the barbecue. I think it is a big part of our fishing heritage. In many third world countries they fish with a can and line. Bill Kiene Kiene’s Fly Shop Sacramento,CA,USA 800/4000FLY www.kiene.com

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   I have an old bamboo pole that was given to me.  It is about 9 to 10′ two piece pole with a single eyelet on the end.  It doesn’t have a handle on it or any mounts for a reel.    I’m curioius of what kind of pole it is and If it is worth anything.

AKA a ‘whacko’ pole ,,used here (AUS) for the taking of Barra and Jack around snags. Method is to secure some 80+ mono to the tip with a 3.0 longshank hook with the barb filed off. Attach one live prawn (at least #8) and lower gingerly  into the snag. The name I am not sure where it originates. Tis one of these: A. the sound created when the frustrated fisho hits the water with the pole repeatedly. B. the imagined feeling when a BarraTuesday hits. C. the clip over the ear you get when doin’ this out of season. D. all of the above Gilly No SEA too rough No Muff too tough Be UP and alive

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Question:

Does anybody mark their lines and leaders for identification? What kind of markers do you use and how do you code the marks? Examples: 3. Leaders can be kept in wallets. However, they are left on the line sometimes and I forget what they were when I put them on. What other methods do you folks use to keep your lines/leaders organized in your shop and/or on the waters? B.

Brian,         I tie my own leaders.  When I tie a leader, I wrap a short strip of paper around it with the length, weight, and formula source listed on it.  When I use the leader, the slip of paper goes into my reel pocket on my vest.  That way, when I fish next time, I can see what leader I have on.  This only gets me in trouble when I use more than one spool.  But, the leaders are usually substantially different for different lines, so I can figure it out. — Tight Threads,         Charley Renn         Corvallis, OR

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- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Does anybody mark their lines and leaders for identification? What kind of markers do you use and how do you code the marks? Examples: 1. I have heard that it is a good idea to mark your dry line about 30′ from the end. This is typically the ideal amount of line to load a rod. 2. Although a label comes with lines to be placed on the inside of the spool/reel, they do come off. It would be nice to mark the line somehow. 3. Leaders can be kept in wallets. However, they are left on the line sometimes and I forget what they were when I put them on. 4. How old is that line/leader? Date code? What other methods do you folks use to keep your lines/leaders organized in your shop and/or on the waters?

Lefty Kreh recommends using an indelible marker somewhere near the end and uses a code of a long stripe is 5 and a short mark is one. Then he identifies wt. forward by putting the short mark or marks in front (toward the end) of the 5 mark. For example a 7 wt forward line would be _.. (long short short) but a 7 wt. double taper would be .._ I imagine you could use an offset color for numbers less than 5 (ie. the off color short mark would be on one end or the other to show wt. forward or double taper). He never does explain how he would mark a 5 wt. line to show DT or WF. Perhaps 5 short marks to allow an off color mark on one end. I would imagine you could mark the 30 ft. spot the same way with indelible marker. I usually put the sticker on the spool when I attach the line. However, this is only convenient if you intend to leave the line on the spool always. $.02 Jon

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Try Cortland Lazer Lines,they are marked as to size. Also Climax Double Doubles are marked. Climax WF fly lines have a telemark on the line at the optimum pick up point.In lay terms the line changes color at that point. Tight Loops KW —

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- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Does anybody mark their lines and leaders for identification? What kind of markers do you use and how do you code the marks? I don’t mark my lines as the way I figure it if I can’t remember what line is on a reel or in a spare spool; I’ve got too many lines. Could have used that money to take the kids to a movie! Marking distance can be good when you’re learning to cast if you need to know how much line you need off the top of the rod to load; (just try to spot that mark as you false cast!) but in practice how much is in the air depends on what you’re doing. I’ve never done it in about 20 years of flyfishing and I never missed it.  It may be usefull if you want to be able to say to yourself " hoo-eee, I just made an 80 foot cast" and tells the boys in the Bar you’re finally an ‘expert’ As if they’d care. 8^) Ralph H replace "spamsucks" with direct for email reply.

I find marking full sinking line in 10ft intervals is helpful in determining how much line is out, especially if you want to repeat a depth after a fish.  I use a sharpie and add one ring for each ten feet of depth. — The views expressed are my own and does not represent those of my employer.

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Does anybody mark their lines and leaders for identification? What kind of markers do you use and how do you code the marks?

I don’t mark my lines as the way I figure it if I can’t remember what line is on a reel or in a spare spool; I’ve got too many lines. Could have used that money to take the kids to a movie! Marking distance can be good when you’re learning to cast if you need to know how much line you need off the top of the rod to load; (just try to spot that mark as you false cast!) but in practice how much is in the air depends on what you’re doing. I’ve never done it in about 20 years of flyfishing and I never missed it.  It may be usefull if you want to be able to say to yourself " hoo-eee, I just made an 80 foot cast" and tells the boys in the Bar you’re finally an ‘expert’ As if they’d care. 8^) Ralph H replace "spamsucks" with direct for email reply.

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I mark all my fly lines in the first foot or two by using a series of magic marker lines. A wide line (approx 1/2") equals five, a thin line (approx 1/8") equals one, if the small marks are closer to the tip subtract from the five marker(s) and if the small marks are towards the belly add to the five marker(s). This system has worked for me for over five years. I use a color coded magic marker system for saltwater leaders as well. I keep a notebook in my tacklebag which contains all my notes as to what color is what weight, etc. HTH. — Tom Dougherty A.K.’s Fly Tying Tools http://www.aks-flytools.com – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Does anybody mark their lines and leaders for identification? What kind of markers do you use and how do you code the marks? Examples: 1. I have heard that it is a good idea to mark your dry line about 30′ from the end. This is typically the ideal amount of line to load a rod. 2. Although a label comes with lines to be placed on the inside of the spool/reel, they do come off. It would be nice to mark the line somehow. 3. Leaders can be kept in wallets. However, they are left on the line sometimes and I forget what they were when I put them on. 4. How old is that line/leader? Date code? What other methods do you folks use to keep your lines/leaders organized in your shop and/or on the waters? B.

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Does anybody mark their lines and leaders for identification? What kind of markers do you use and how do you code the marks?

I mark my lines at each end to show the line wt, mainly because I use a loop to loop connection between the line and backing. I use a Banford Sharpie permanent marker and use a wide mark for five and a narrow mark for one. I put the wide marks towards the front of the line. (I read this in a Lefty Kreh book but don’t know who invented the system).  I don’t use distance marks, the casting here in Georgia is usually pretty tight and the times I have fished the salt I just cast as far as I can and hope the fish can swim to my fly<g. FWIW. — Charlie…

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Does anybody mark their lines and leaders for identification? What kind of markers do you use and how do you code the marks? Examples: 1. I have heard that it is a good idea to mark your dry line about 30′ from the end. This is typically the ideal amount of line to load a rod. 2. Although a label comes with lines to be placed on the inside of the spool/reel, they do come off. It would be nice to mark the line somehow. 3. Leaders can be kept in wallets. However, they are left on the line sometimes and I forget what they were when I put them on. 4. How old is that line/leader? Date code? What other methods do you folks use to keep your lines/leaders organized in your shop and/or on the waters? B.

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- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Does anybody mark their lines and leaders for identification? What kind of markers do you use and how do you code the marks? Examples: 1. I have heard that it is a good idea to mark your dry line about 30′ from the end. This is typically the ideal amount of line to load a rod. 2. Although a label comes with lines to be placed on the inside of the spool/reel, they do come off. It would be nice to mark the line somehow. 3. Leaders can be kept in wallets. However, they are left on the line sometimes and I forget what they were when I put them on. 4. How old is that line/leader? Date code? What other methods do you folks use to keep your lines/leaders organized in your shop and/or on the waters? B.

Hi Brian For years I’ve marked my lines for length just because I’m such a louse judge of distance and for no other reason. I use an indelible felt tip marker — at 30′, one mark, at 40′, two markes, at 50′, three marks and so on out to 80′. From there I know it a short distance to the and and very honestly though I can throw the line when needed I seldom have to use that much line for normal fishing conditions here in Montana. Regarding what line is on what spool I’ve had no problem keeping the little sticker on the inside of the spool if I place a small piece of clear "shipping tape" over the line weight sticker. Take care &… — Tight Lines ….. Al Beatty BT’s Fly Fishing Products Catalog,Tips & Tricks, Fishing Reports, & NeverSink at: http://www.btsflyfishing.com

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1. I have heard that it is a good idea to mark your dry line about 30′ from the end. This is typically the ideal amount of line to load a rod.

I tried this when a beginner.  It soon becomes a waste of time.  The "ideal amount of line" is not something you see with the conscious eye — it is something you feel unconsciously in your hand and arm, while the eye is on the fish and the water. 2. Although a label comes with lines to be placed on the inside of the spool/reel, they do come off. It would be nice to mark the line somehow.

Yes, until you have identified which line types you trust.  Once you prefer particular brands of floaters, tapers, sink tips etc. you can buy (most) in distinctive colours, i.e. use the manufacturers’ color codes to keep track. 3. Leaders can be kept in wallets. However, they are left on the line sometimes and I forget what they were when I put them on. 4. How old is that line/leader? Date code?

These questions do not arise for people who use a permanent leader butt, which lasts as long as the line.  Nylon is cheaper than time; you put on a fresh tippet at the start of each session anyway; and it is easy to replace the intermediate tapered section once a year or more often if you feel the need, e.g. using a trout outfit for salmon. — |  Donald Phillipson, 4180 Boundary Road, Carlsbad Springs,  | |        Ontario, Canada, K0A 1K0, tel. 613 822 0734         |

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Question:

Someone posted a really nice list of web sites for flyfishing within the last week, but I inadvertantly deleted it.  Could you be so kind as to re-post it?

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Try http://www.eaglenet.com/PaxP/mstrs/fishing.html

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Question:

Who knows the secret formula for homemade floatant.  There was this guide in Montana who had some incredible stuff, but he wouldn’t tell me what the contents were.

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Who knows the secret formula for homemade floatant.  There was this guide in Montana who had some incredible stuff, but he wouldn’t tell me what the contents were.

I’ve found that disolving some bees wax in alcohol or naptha and then soaking your fly in it after you tie it will give it some excellent floating characteristics.  Don’t know about re-constituting the fly on the stream with the same stuff.  You can get bees wax by buying some ‘Sno Seal’, a product for waterproofing shoes.

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Who knows the secret formula for homemade floatant.  There was this guide in Montana who had some incredible stuff, but he wouldn’t tell me what the contents were.

Hi Ron For years I used unscented Albolene liquifying cleanser available in the beauty aids section of most drug stores.  A 6oz tub cost about $4.00.   The ingredients are listed as follows: Mineral oil, petrolatum, paraffin, ceresin, carotene Instead of buying all that stuff to make your own, why not just buy a many years supply alread mixed? Tight Lines Al Beatty BT’s Fly Fishing Products Bozeman, MT (96 catalog)

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Question:

        I’m a beginner spending a week at Lake George, on the s platte near 11 mile canyon. Would sure appreciate suggestions on where to fish and what they’ll likely be eating.         Good local shops forflies and advice would be great also.                         Thanks in advance,                                         Mac

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   I’m a beginner spending a week at Lake George, on the s platte near 11 mile canyon. Would sure appreciate suggestions on where to fish and what they’ll likely be eating.    Good local shops forflies and advice would be great also.                    Thanks in advance,                                    Mac

Mac, you may have seen my post "South Platte Cheesman Canyon:Alert!" I spoke of how I felt the fishing has declined in recent years. Anyway, I too was once a novice and I learned to fish by getting many tips from guides and just very friendly seasoned fly fishermen. At any rate there is a book that I highly recommend called:"Fly Fishing the South Platte River" By: Roger Hill*. This book if digested properly will be an invaluble source of information. Also, I recommend seeing Dick Johnson at the "Flies & Lies" fly shop in Deckers,Colorado. Dick always seems to know what they’re biting on and has everything you need to reel them in.The afore mentioned book is also available at Dick’s shop. Nymphing may be best I think because that’s where the trout seem to be most of the time. For starters use: San Juan worms size:#16 in earth tone. RS-2’s:#18-#20 olive green and gray. Brassies:#18-#24. Pheasant-tail nymphs:#18-#22. Maybe some Miracle nymphs and pupa’s in smaller sizes as well. Fish them in tandum with a couple of split shots and two strike indicators approximately 4-5ft. above your 1st fly. Best of luck, Mac and don’t forget to "Catch and Release." Sincerely, Cliff *A portion of the proceeds from the sales of this book will be donated to Colorado Trout Unlimited. "Best of angling" friends…..

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Question:

I just thought that i would tell the world that my son got his first salmon last week a six pound hummpy. What a thrill for him.

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I just thought that i would tell the world that my son got his first salmon last week a six pound hummpy. What a thrill for him.

Wow! That kid must have some arm casting a six pound humpy.  (does there really exist a humpy salmon?)

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 I just thought that i would tell the world that my son got his first  salmon last week a six pound hummpy. What a thrill for him.  Wow! That kid must have some arm casting a six pound humpy.  (does there  really exist a humpy salmon?)

    Yes.  It’s another name for a Pink Salmon.

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writes: (does there really exist a humpy salmon?)

In Alaska they call them "Humpies from Hell".  They come in every other year and take flies well.  Unfortunately they come in about the same time the silvers do and take the fly before it gets down to the larger silvers.  Great light tackle fish (6 or 7 wt.). Not as much fun on the 8 or 9 wt. you’d use for silvers (at least in Alaska).                                                      Dan

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Question:

I,ll be in Missoula May 5-12.  Whenever I get to Montana I like to make the best of it! I have never fished there in early May.  What can I expect?

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Early may can be an excellent ime for our rivers. As long as the runoff hasn’t started, which is usually late may, there will be dry fly activity as well as streamer and nymph fishing. One of my favorite hatches at that time is the Skwala hatch, an olive stonefly.Also there will be Ameletus, a large black mayfly. If you like streamer fishing, there will be plenty of opportunities to fish large nymphs and streamers to imitate the salmonfly which would be hatching within two to four weeks of when you plan to be there. I’m a local guide and would be glad to offer any advice. Tight Lines! Brian D. Nelson

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