Question:

Steve, I have a set of Hodgman neoprene waders and wading boots and they work fine for me.  The only problem I have with them is that I sweat like a pig in them.  I cannot wear any clothes under them that I plan on wearing later as they get soaked.  I just returned from the Pit, McCloud and Burney creek and did not feel cold in the waders at all. Just my $.02, Dustin – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Greetings from Northern California.  In shopping for my first pair of waders (I’m new to fly fishing) I came across the Hodgman closeout site.  The have Wadelite non-breathable waders, suspenders, and Caster Boots for the low price of $49.99.  Is this a deal or am I just pissing away Fifty Bucks?

Response:

Personally, I doubt if I could get more than 3 seasons out of a pair of waders no mater who made them. Having used all varieties, I am sold on breathables for all weather conditions until it is warm enough to wade wet. In winter (you know, snow and ice) I stay warmer in breathables…. Does anyone get more than 3 seasons?….. john

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Greetings from Northern California.  In shopping for my first pair of waders (I’m new to fly fishing) I came across the Hodgman closeout site.  The have Wadelite non-breathable waders, suspenders, and Caster Boots for the low price of $49.99.  Is this a deal or am I just pissing away Fifty Bucks?

Response:

"asadi" < Personally, I doubt if I could get more than 3 seasons out of a pair of waders no mater who made them. Having used all varieties, I am sold on breathables for all weather conditions until it is warm enough to wade wet. In winter (you know, snow and ice) I stay warmer in breathables…. Does anyone get more than 3 seasons?….. john

I got a whole season out of a pair of breathables last year and they have three holes patched. They may get me through this coming one as well. I would presume I do a lot more hours on the water than most, wouldn’t know how to work out what that equates too, but it would be at least three seasons I’m guessing. Clark

Response:

I’m 2/3 thru year 4 on my Simms Guide boots and waders. Never applied a patch to the waders and the boots look pretty spiffy considering. My trick is that I hose down my gear every time I fish and then hang it up to dry. This may sound a little obsessive, but I do the same with my fly lines and rods/reels and they’re as nice as the day I bot them. Also, it pays to be careful when putting on your waders and boots not to track sand and gravel on your feet. These are hell on wader feet. IMHO. -bh Boulder, CO

Response:

Greetings from Northern California.  In shopping for my first pair of waders (I’m new to fly fishing) I came across the Hodgman closeout site.  The have Wadelite non-breathable waders, suspenders, and Caster Boots for the low price of $49.99.  Is this a deal or am I just pissing away Fifty Bucks?

I am hardly new to flyfishing but use similiar waders myself. Also have cheaper model Hodgman boots. After using rubber/canvas and then neoprene waders this style seemed quite nice and light. I think its a good deal. Breathable waders are probably more comfortable but from all the complaints I’ve seen here concerning the cheaper ones it seems that you are looking at at least 200 bucks to get a good pair. A little steep for my taste, but of course I AM cheap (admitting you have a problem etc. etc. etc.). Geo.C.

Response:

I have a pair of hodgeman breathables, I can’t recall what model off the top of my head but I paid about 150 for them three years ago. I do allot of walking through brush to get to water and keep them in my car trunk all summer long on 90+ degree days witch can’t really be good for them, but they have yet to spring a leak and are very comfortable. I also bought there cheaper canvas felt sole wading boots. It ran me 200 total but for the abuse I put them through I think it was a good investment. I had some cheap rubber waders that were beyond uncomfortable and sprung a leak after a few trips crawling through the bushes on the edge of a stream(gota be stealthy some times, people give me silly looks when they see me crawling around in waders with a fly rod). So in the long run I think it’s worth spending on one good set then buying 4 or 5 bad ones through the years. Well that’s my 2 cents, well more like 5 Tim Apple

Response:

Greetings from Northern California.  In shopping for my first pair of waders (I’m new to fly fishing) I came across the Hodgman closeout site.  The have Wadelite non-breathable waders, suspenders, and Caster Boots for the low price of $49.99.  Is this a deal or am I just pissing away Fifty Bucks?

I found the nylon non-breathable Wadelites. Personally, I think these would be rather warm and uncomfortable. But then I’m "big-boned" <g and perspire a lot anyway. — TL, Tim

Response:

I purchased a pair of the bantam weight hippers and a pair of the bantam weight chest waders from their outlet store and used the hip waders this summer.     I now know why breatheables are so popular but other than perspiring quite a bit, the waders worked great.   held up pretty good during a week-long trip, no leaks, etc.    I don’t know about the boots, had a pair of 11 yo hodgman boots that worked ok. so, I thought for $50, i got a pretty good deal on the waders, i don’t get to fish much, but now have all waters covered… – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -Greetings from Northern California.  In shopping for my first pair of waders (I’m new to fly fishing) I came across the Hodgman closeout site.  The have Wadelite non-breathable waders, suspenders, and Caster Boots for the low price of $49.99.  Is this a deal or am I just pissing away Fifty Bucks?

Response:

Greetings from Northern California.  In shopping for my first pair of waders (I’m new to fly fishing) I came across the Hodgman closeout site.  The have Wadelite non-breathable waders, suspenders, and Caster Boots for the low price of $49.99.  Is this a deal or am I just pissing away Fifty Bucks?

It depends on how much you fish, and what type of fishing you do. If you’re going to be doing some small mountain creeks or upper lakes, then these are probably NG. I have a pair of Cabelas non-breathable cheap waders which are fine (with or without underlying insulation…depending on season) for late fall/winter/early spring (late spring for the ocean) fishing around here.  Once the weather warms up, I don’t use full waders, I either use hip boots, or wet-wade, with a couple of exceptions. When I’ve gone up to some of the bigger water (Ausable, West Branch of the Delaware) I could really have used the breathables. So, the answer is "it depends". — Rob

Response:

Greetings from Northern California.  In shopping for my first pair of waders (I’m new to fly fishing) I came across the Hodgman closeout site.  The have Wadelite non-breathable waders, suspenders, and Caster Boots for the low price of $49.99.  Is this a deal or am I just pissing away Fifty Bucks?

Response:

Greetings from Northern California.  In shopping for my first pair of waders (I’m new to fly fishing) I came across the Hodgman closeout site.  The have Wadelite non-breathable waders, suspenders, and Caster Boots for the low price of $49.99.  Is this a deal or am I just pissing away Fifty Bucks?

The Wadelite models are all breathable, according to their website. I’ve got a pair of the felt-sole Caster boots, and they’re decent for a starter set, although the felt is two-piece with the shank uncovered. This can sometimes cause stumbling problems if you’re not careful because the heel catches on rocks. — TL, Tim

Response:

Greetings from Northern California.  In shopping for my first pair of waders (I’m new to fly fishing) I came across the Hodgman closeout site.  The have Wadelite non-breathable waders, suspenders, and Caster Boots for the low price of $49.99.  Is this a deal or am I just pissing away Fifty Bucks?

Don’t know anything about the boots, but I bought the same waders for a quite a bit more money four years ago and they haven’t let me down yet. Sounds like a good deal to me. Wolfgang

Response:

Question:

…  Dressing should NOT be of silicone based products as found in England but rather with gink,… Silk responds well to a gink dressing … Remember, try straight gink, …

Red Mucilin is the best dressing for silk lines. Green Mucilin contains silicone and the spammer is correct, silicone products should not be used on silk lines. — Ken Fortenberry- give it a rest, G.

Response:

Red mucilin is the best dressing for silk lines, and as far as I am aware is the only dressing recommended by practically the last manufacturers of these lines.   No other dressings should be used, as they may damage the line, and these lines are now very expensive indeed.  They are the finest lines it is possible to use for small stream fishing, or for fishing areas where a stealthy approach is essential. They allow delicate presentation, cause less disturbance, and the modern ones are nowhere near as much trouble to keep in good condition as the old ones were. They will outlast any modern plastic line quite easily, and so the increased expense is perhaps not so relevant. It is immaterial whether they are used on cane or carbon fibre, or indeed fibre-glass rods. TL MC — "In order to know what is possible one must constantly attempt the impossible" http://www.mikeconnor.de

Response:

They are the finest lines it is possible to use for small stream fishing, or for fishing areas where a stealthy approach is essential. They allow delicate presentation, cause less disturbance, and the modern ones are nowhere near as much trouble to keep in good condition as the old ones were. They will outlast any modern plastic line quite easily, and so the increased expense is perhaps not so relevant.

This thread has kind of got me interested in learning more about silk lines and where to get them.  Any suggestions on where more info can be found? Warren X#-[

Trout Dwellers Unite! Western Conclave Guru For info: http://home.earthlink.net/~royalwulff/sp_ROFF_people/wclave/wclave.html

Response:

George,     I couldn't agree more that silk fly lines are an excellent option. In fact, they have so many benefits that many of my friends are now switching to them. Olaf Borge was making brisk sales of Phoenix lines at the recent Rodmakers gathering in Grayling.

snip:  I have to remove the cap of the Gink tube and use forceps to get it out. Could you work on that?]

______  The albolene is like water in hot weather and the tube option leaves a lot to be desired because of losing the little cap with cold fingers, or any other number of reasons astream.  I have to think of the hundreds of thousands of possible factors that will cause customers to be unhappy regarding just the cap.  This is one of the reasons we use the cap we do.  The other is the gasket on tubes are not guaranteed to last the life of the tube.  Many lose this seal also.   Gink is very difficult to contain because it has great penetration powers on flies which is one of the reasons it’s superior.  (No spam intended, dang it Ken)  Regardless, the bottle we use is a specific choice because the seal on it is complete and is one of the few vessels that will contain gink without leakage and seals during long storage because it only takes a little to dress a fly. When you gink a silk fly line it will be better for silk fly lines than the ‘English Option’ known as the "Red Tin".  (Smiling here pal).  In fact, I know it for a fact based just on science and objective testing and usage covering a span of 30 years Reed.  The freedom of choice is yours, but you should at least give yourself a try because regardless of what silk fly line makers may think what is best for their fly lines, I assure you I know more about it then they do. In fact gink was tested to be specific for silk lines long before Phoenix was in business. I’ll leave it at that, excepting I would never tell you anything that wasn’t better in terms of your best interests.  That I happen to be the maker of gink, has nothing to do with it.  That fly fishermen now gink a fly instead of just dressing a fly is a product of satisfaction over many years of use.  That a ginked silk fly line floats and behaves better than any other products used, especially silicone Red Tinned products, is without question.  Red Tinned versions still attract dirt on silk, makes it abrasive and wears out silk before its time.  Again, the secret to any fly line, I must admit is keeping them clean and properly dressed.  If you’re satisfied with the Red Option Reed, after all this time, frankly you should continue using it.   For the high price of silk however, I’d use my stuff. — MrG/American Sportsman http://www.gink.com/shopcart/index.html http://www.gink.com/rod_facts/bastardjun00.html  LATEST BAMBOO FACTS "the saga continues"

Response:

If you look at Reed

Question:

I’m thinking real hard about incorporating a two-weight into my fly rod arsenal, and I’d like some opinions on their versatility. Is it a "perfect conditions" only rod, or can you get out in a little wind or water on the higher side? Can it handle mid-range flies, small streamers, weighted nymphs, maybe a smallish wooly bugger? Or is it limited to small dries and wets? What about small poppers? I fish more for warm water fish than trout, and I know a two-weight would be adequate for our stream trout in Pennsylvania, but I would use this a lot for bluegill and crappie and my "experimenting" in ponds and coves from my float tube. I also like to push the envelope and challenge all my rods, so I’d see what I could do on bass and steelhead in Lake Erie tribs in the fall. Right now, I’m looking at either Orvis Silver Label two-weight, either the 7′ 9" or 8′ 4" model. Are the Trident models worth twice as much? Any other brands I should consider? Thanks for all opinions! John Scherrer http://www.cianow.com "Courage is being scared to death…and saddling up anyway." – John Wayne

Response:

–MS_Mac_OE_3043294664_217493_MIME_Part Content-type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-transfer-encoding: quoted-printable <HTML <HEAD <TITLETwo-weight opinions please!</TITLE </HEAD <BODY I’m thinking real hard … I also like to push the envelope and challenge all my r= ods, so I’d see what I could do on bass and steelhead in Lake Erie tribs in = the fall.<BR … Thanks for all opinions!<BR <BR John Scherrer<BR <FONT COLOR=3D"#0000FF"<Uhttp://www.cianow.com<BR </U</FONT<BR <FONT SIZE=3D"4"&quot;Courage is being scared to death…and saddling up any= way.&quot; <BR – <IJohn Wayne</I</FONT </BODY </HTML Be careful what you ask for, someone around here may give you their opinion on using a 2wt for steelhead and on posting in html. Hint: Wear asbestos. — Ken Fortenberry

Response:

This message is in MIME format. Since your mail reader does not understand this format, some or all of this message may not be legible. I’m thinking real hard about incorporating a two-weight into my fly rod arsenal, and I’d like some opinions on their versatility. Right now, I’m looking at either Orvis Silver Label two-weight, either the 7′ 9" or 8′ 4" model. Are the Trident models worth twice as much? Any other brands I should consider? Thanks for all opinions! John Scherrer

John, when you post to a newsgroup NEVER post in MIME format.  Use basic plain text.  Your post is jibberish to a lot of people and wastes time and money for some. Back to your question.  What is the point of adding the 2 wt.? Basically, you are asking if you should use a 2 wt. rod for all the applications you should not use a 2 wt. rod.  I’m not sure what your question really is.  If you want ultra-light line strength, use lighter tippet. — Wayne To fish is human….To release Divine! Before you buy.

Response:

    Many of us here, Frank Church and myself to name a few use the 3wt. Cabelas 3 forks for panfish. Being 7.5′ it is ideal for bank fishing of species within it’s range. Because of it’s low cost, there is nothing lost if it is only used sporaticaly. It also is easy to store due to the 3piece take down. I often recommend it as an addition. The cost of rod, reel, line, and 7X tippets (I feel) of one of the premium makers does not justify the limited use of the smaller weight rods. John Popp

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I’m thinking real hard about incorporating a two-weight into my fly rod arsenal, and I’d like some opinions on their versatility. Is it a "perfect conditions" only rod, or can you get out in a little wind or water on the higher side? Can it handle mid-range flies, small streamers, weighted nymphs, maybe a smallish wooly bugger? Or is it limited to small dries and wets? What about small poppers? I fish more for warm water fish than trout, and I know a two-weight would be adequate for our stream trout in Pennsylvania, but I would use this a lot for bluegill and crappie and my "experimenting" in ponds and coves from my float tube. I also like to push the envelope and challenge all my rods, so I’d see what I could do on bass and steelhead in Lake Erie tribs in the fall. Right now, I’m looking at either Orvis Silver Label two-weight, either the 7′ 9" or 8′ 4" model. Are the Trident models worth twice as much? Any other brands I should consider? Thanks for all opinions! John Scherrer http://www.cianow.com "Courage is being scared to death…and saddling up anyway." – John Wayne

Response:

This message is in MIME format. Since your mail reader does not understand this format, some or all of this message may not be legible.

First off, please turn off the HTML and MIME. I’m thinking real hard about incorporating a two-weight into my fly rod arsenal, and I’d like some opinions on their versatility.

They are not versatile, but can be a useful and fun rod in the right conditions and for the right fish. Is it a "perfect conditions" only rod, or can you get out in a little wind or water on the higher side? Can it handle mid-range flies, small streamers, weighted nymphs, maybe a smallish wooly bugger? Or is it limited to small dries and wets? What about small poppers?

It doesn’t have to be perfect conditions, I take mine out in light wind, but generally when the water is on the high side I bring a different rod. I use small to mid-sized flies, no streamers, nothing weighted, haven’t fished with poppers so I wouldn’t know. I fish more for warm water fish than trout, and I know a two-weight would be adequate for our stream trout in Pennsylvania, but I would use this a lot for bluegill and crappie and my "experimenting" in ponds and coves from my float tube.

A 2-weight is a blast with bluegill and crappie. I also like to push the envelope and challenge all my rods, so I’d see what I could do on bass and steelhead in Lake Erie tribs in the fall.

I’d pass on the bass and steelhead though, the tippet size usually used with a 2-weight would snap right quick.  You could use a heavier tippet and fight the fish from the reel, but then what’s the point of the 2-weight. Right now, I’m looking at either Orvis Silver Label two-weight, either the 7′ 9" or 8′ 4" model. Are the Trident models worth twice as much? Any other brands I should consider?

I have the 7′9" equivalent of the silver label (was called something different back then).  Personally I don’t think the non-silver labels are worth the price, but if you are into asthetics they might be. You might want to consider what type of action you prefer since the 7′9" model is a really slow action and the tridents are relatively fast action.   Later,      - Ken

Response:

Is there any concern about how much protection the rod can provide ?  Or is that not a concern among fly fisherpeople ?

I have found that Trojans and seat belts provide far better protection than any fishing rod could ever give. If I’m ever attacked by a rabid trout, I will be quite willing to re-evaluate. Vegetables aren’t food. Vegetables are what the food eats.

Response:

These are supposed to be close-in rods so don’t buy some fast 2 wt. in the belief it adds to it’s versatility.  Here’s my preferences in no particular order. Orvis 7′ 9" T&T 7′ XL Sage LL 279 Winston IM6 7′

I will be picking up an Orvis Silver Label 792 this weekend.  The local Orvis shop here is willing to let me try it out for a week or two with no obligation to buy…now that is customer service (I purchased my 4wt. from the same shop 2 years ago)!  Apparently, the Silver Label 792 is the same blank as the Superfine/Ultra Fine model with the only real difference being the Silver Label has a walnut, uplocking  reel seat as opposed to the Ultra Fine’s cork, banded seat.  And of course, the price…the Silver Label is about $75.00 USD less than the Ultra Fine.  Actually, it was you Peter who tipped me off about this….thx.  :-) I’ll also be trying out a T&T LPS 802.  I’m sure they are both excellent rods and I will reserve my final judgment until I’ve had a chance to use them both.  Having said that, I will say that the T&T has got to be one helluva rod and really stand out for me to justify spending the extra $$$$ ($380.00 for TT vs. $230.00 for Orvis).  We will see. Also..great tip on the leader..thx again Peter. Natty

Response:

Never felt the need to use my rod for protection. I have, on occasion, used protection on my rod though. Does that count?

  Nope. Before you buy.

Response:

What weight would you need to feel comfortable, Big Dale? I’m pretty good at around 165 myself.  I suspect Dale prefers to pack just a bit more.    :)

125 is adequate for those with steady hands and a steely eye. OBROFF Depends on the two weight.  One of the biggest problems with two is the use of factory leaders.  The little line just can’t turn over a 024 thou butt.  So make your own leaders with .013 to .015 butt sections and the versatility of your little rod goes way up. These are supposed to be close-in rods so don’t buy some fast 2 wt. in the belief it adds to it’s versatility.  Here’s my preferences in no particular order. Orvis 7′ 9" T&T 7′ XL Sage LL 279 Winston IM6 7′ Cheers Visit The Streamer Page at http://members.home.net/pcharles/streamers/index.html

Response:

rod can provide ?  Or is that not a concern among fly fisherpeople ?

I do not consider a 2 weight rod an adequate substitute for a Ruger or a twelve gauge. Big Dale. Big Dale

Response:

Wow! I see you’re from Buffalo!!!! One of my favorite places in the world. Been thru a few times, and came out on do-it-yourself hunt at Bud Love back in the mid-80’s (seems like yesterday!) Taking the family out next month for Badlands, Rushmore, Devil’s Tower, 2/3 nights at Buffalo to see the Bighorns and Custer’s battlefield, then over to Cody, Yellowstone and Jackson Hole. Fishing will be incidental, not the purpose of the trip, if you know of any day trips or float trips or do-it-yourself areas, let me know! John Scherrer http://www.cianow.com

Question:

Any suggestions for places to combine backpacking and fishing in Texas, Okla. or Arkansas?  I never learned to fly-fish, but I’ll fish rivers, streams, lakes or ponds.

Backpacking and fishing rarely really go together in Texas.   On the other hand though, canoe/kayaking and fishing are a pretty decent fit in Texas. If you are dedicated to backpack fishing, Arkansas is probably a better experience. The Texas coastline could be largely backpacked, but I doubt its the type of experience you want. You could backpack in Big Bend and fish the Rio Grande, but the Rio Grande is not exactly the most pristine river in the world…. But grab a canoe or kayak and the possibilities for fishing and camping become nearly limitless. .

Response:

I recently read your request on where to hike fish camp in ok,ar,tx you might try Beavers bend state park in the S.E. coner of OK it has trails that take up to several days to complete the country is very beautiful this time of year it is in the ouichata national forest and is a favorite af my wife and mine the hiking trail goes all the way around the lake and it is a very large lake lots af trees and mountains – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Any suggestions for places to combine backpacking and fishing in Texas, Okla. or Arkansas?  I never learned to fly-fish, but I’ll fish rivers, streams, lakes or ponds. Before you buy.

Response:

Any suggestions for places to combine backpacking and fishing in Texas, Okla. or Arkansas?  I never learned to fly-fish, but I’ll fish rivers, streams, lakes or ponds. Before you buy.

Response:

Question:

Recently I – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – bought an Airflo Polyleader (floating, light trout variety) from ezflyfish.com and really like its ability to turnover. Unlike Maxima, this tapered leader is very flexible – feels like a gel.  It limply rolls off my reel with nearly imperceptible coiling, every time – no need to stretch it out. Also when casting, it seems like it has better momentum transfer from fly line to leader than my hand tied leaders.  The Maxima leaders work well, but the Polyleader really rolls off the end of the cast.  However it does seem also to create a bit more disturbance when lifting off the water.   Depending on the size of the fly and making an adjustment in my casting stroke I can completely straighten out my leader using either type but the Polyleader appears to have better unfurling properties.  Rather than a leader butt, it’s more like a clear finely tapered fly line floating tip.  Might be similar to some of these new clear or clear tipped fly lines available.  Your observations? experiences?

I was introduced to the Airflo leaders in NZ this February by my guide, and have been using them ever since.  I agree with your assessment of their capabilities — they’re fantastic. Michael — www.geocities.com/yosemite/falls/3363 Share what you know. Learn what you don’t.

Response:

Mu We haven’t exchanged posts in a while, how’s it going?   I make my own leaders and I’ve been downsizing the butt rather than making them from thick, stiff mono.  I’ve found that the lighter lines (<5 wt.) sometimes have problems turning them over.  The line rolls out in a nice tight loop but the leader opens up then the tippet and fly lands in a heap.  A sign that the tip of the fly line wasn’t able to move the butt.  I haven’t used the poly leader but I have used their older ones and they definitely turn over better than stiff butt factory leaders.  No  question. Peter – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -I’ve always heard that you need a stiff butt for your leaders for better turnover. Maxima Chameleon is stiff and I like the color and strength so I have been using it most of the time for tying my own leaders.  Recently I bought an Airflo Polyleader (floating, light trout variety) from ezflyfish.com and really like its ability to turnover. Unlike Maxima, this tapered leader is very flexible – feels like a gel.  It limply rolls off my reel with nearly imperceptible coiling, every time – no need to stretch it out. Also when casting, it seems like it has better momentum transfer from fly line to leader than my hand tied leaders.  The Maxima leaders work well, but the Polyleader really rolls off the end of the cast.  However it does seem also to create a bit more disturbance when lifting off the water.   Depending on the size of the fly and making an adjustment in my casting stroke I can completely straighten out my leader using either type but the Polyleader appears to have better unfurling properties.  Rather than a leader butt, it’s more like a clear finely tapered fly line floating tip.  Might be similar to some of these new clear or clear tipped fly lines available.  Your observations? experiences? Mu Young Lee                         Ann Arbor, MI   USA

Response:

I’ve always heard that you need a stiff butt for your leaders for better turnover. Maxima Chameleon is stiff and I like the color and strength so I have been using it most of the time for tying my own leaders<snip

Hi Mu, Thirty plus years ago, we nail knotted on an ~24" butt of clear hard Mason mono. Then we blood knotted on a Berkley tapered knotless leader. We then used Gladding ‘Gladell’ tippet from France(?). Boy, 6x ‘Gladell’ was pretty hot stuff in those days. I thought that I read something by Lefty Kreh recently that the diameter or mass of the leader butt is what caused the leader to ‘turn over’, not the stiffness. I think he is promoting soft leader butts now? The old rule of thumb was to use two-thirds the diameter of the tip or point of the fly line for a proper butt diameter. I try to get the rigidity of the mono butt section to match the rigidity of the end of the fly line. The best thing to do is get a friend to help you do some testing. One guy cast, while the other one watches the leader turn over?

Response:

I tried some polyleaders at a fly fair in Denmark, and was so impressed with the difference that I bought a whole set of them in various types, Floating, intermediate, slow sinking and ultra fast sinking.  I have not had much chance to use them yet, but I find them far superior to the standard nylon tapered leaders, and they also turn over better than my own carefully hand tied ones. I will be using them as often as possible as soon as I get to do some fishing again. ( too much work at the moment ! ).  I find the floaters do not "pick off" quite as cleanly as nylon, but that is a minor disadvantage if at all. Still have not figured out why this is, but suspect they actually do float a little lower, and this makes them more difficult to pick off. Will have to try a few experiments. Mine are not from Airflo, but from a firm called Scierra. May not be entirely the same. Tight lines ! Mike Connor

Response:

I tried some polyleaders at a fly fair in Denmark, and was so impressed with the difference that I bought a whole set of them in various types, Floating, intermediate, slow sinking and ultra fast sinking.  

Yeah, Walt sells them in a set too but I couldn’t afford to buy it so I just tried the floating one. I have not had much chance to use them yet, but I find them far superior to the standard nylon tapered leaders, and they also turn over better than my own carefully hand

I was quite surprised by that too.                 I find the floaters do not "pick off" quite as cleanly as nylon, but that is a minor disadvantage if at all. Still have not figured out why this is, but suspect they actually do float a little lower, and this makes them more difficult to pick off. Will have to try a few experiments.

The coating feels like some sort of gel.  It’s definitely not as smooth as nylon.  My guess is that under a microscope it probably will display many small inrregularites which can momentarily hold water as it’s being lifted off the surface. Mine are not from Airflo, but from a firm called Scierra. May not be entirely the same.

I believe Rio also makes similar products.  A friend had told me about Polyleaders last December but I couldn’t really find them anywhere.  A few months ago I ordered a fast sinker from a mail order outfit (Feathercraft) but they didn’t have any that were suitable for a 4 wt (they offered two varieties, a Trout series and a Salmon/Bass series). It wasn’t until I stumbled upon ezflyfish.com that I realized that Airflo also had a Light Trout series.  At ~$7 each they can get pricey.  So far I’ve been quite pleased.  The test will be to see how long they last. Mu

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There’s nothing like forgetting to bring t.p. to make you keep a stiff butt. — something bogus to avoid spam)

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To all dos ROFFers and ROFFets who geff so yenerously to ar last butt apple Verst I vant to say dat back in May I tink it vas you guys ver dealing wit dis picture dat Torben sent from Norvey off de butt-challanged Nordska on is veb site. IAnd dis vomen had a butt dat youst made dis old man cry, becouse da vomen Ive sen parading into de  local Sons of Norway Hall in Poulsbo, Washington (USA) are more posterially endowed den dat undernourished pixie in Torbens veb site.  Vich is anuder sample of da superiority of de Nortmerican diet but dats a hole nudder kettle of lutafisc. Vell now de topic is stiff butts und I vant to extend de offer originally made on behaf off de poor Scandahovian waifs, to da sufferers off dis stiff butt ting. I don relly no dat much about it, but wat da hell it  zounds like a fit. Come on you guys, do ve need anuder Marshall Plan or vhut? Lets veed dese schildren!!! Send da tax  deductable contribution to da Ad Hoc Nordska Butt Fund, General = Delivery, Poulsbo, WA "A mind is a terrible ting to vaste, but a sckinny butt? I tell you, dats a whole lot versor. Ya you betcha!" (Now serffing da sterf butted as vell. Becas ve care a lot.) Daveff PS: un update on da Evil Torkleson Rototiller Luttefisk  barrel  record yump attemp.  Volks, he’s going fur fife barrels dis year at da Poulsbo Vikingfest, ant ittle be a ting ta see. Da new bearings are in from Harley, ant vhen Ole’s back from da halibut fishing ve vill get dem in.

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I’ve always heard that you need a stiff butt for your leaders for better turnover. Maxima Chameleon is stiff and I like the color and strength so I have been using it most of the time for tying my own leaders.  Recently I bought an Airflo Polyleader (floating, light trout variety) from ezflyfish.com and really like its ability to turnover. Unlike Maxima, this tapered leader is very flexible – feels like a gel.  It limply rolls off my reel with nearly imperceptible coiling, every time – no need to stretch it out. Also when casting, it seems like it has better momentum transfer from fly line to leader than my hand tied leaders.  The Maxima leaders work well, but the Polyleader really rolls off the end of the cast.  However it does seem also to create a bit more disturbance when lifting off the water.   Depending on the size of the fly and making an adjustment in my casting stroke I can completely straighten out my leader using either type but the Polyleader appears to have better unfurling properties.  Rather than a leader butt, it’s more like a clear finely tapered fly line floating tip.  Might be similar to some of these new clear or clear tipped fly lines available.  Your observations? experiences? Mu Young Lee                         Ann Arbor, MI   USA

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To all dos ROFFers and ROFFets who geff so yenerously to ar last butt apple Verst I vant to say dat back in May I tink it vas you guys ver dealing wit dis picture dat Torben sent from Norvey off de butt-challanged Nordska on is veb site.

<gasp What would St. Olaf say about all this? Mu

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- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I’ve always heard that you need a stiff butt for your leaders for better turnover. Maxima Chameleon is stiff and I like the color and strength so I have been using it most of the time for tying my own leaders<snip Hi Mu, Thirty plus years ago, we nail knotted on an ~24" butt of clear hard Mason mono. Then we blood knotted on a Berkley tapered knotless leader. We then used Gladding ‘Gladell’ tippet from France(?). Boy, 6x ‘Gladell’ was pretty hot stuff in those days. I thought that I read something by Lefty Kreh recently that the diameter or mass of the leader butt is what caused the leader to ‘turn over’, not the stiffness. I think he is promoting soft leader butts now?

Absolutely right! The physics of the thing goes with limp leaders NOT stiff ones. Ideally, the whole cast (line/leader/tippet) should involve a steadily decreasing local mass being turned over by the waning energy of the cast. Here in Britain, when we’re reservoir fishing in boats ‘on the drift’, we often use leaders of straight through thin mono, sometimes 20 feet or more long, with droppers. Leader turnover isn’t a problem, because by definition we’re fishing down wind and the breeze helps straighten things out. But this kind of set up is much more difficult (sometimes impossible) to use into the wind and one knows the difference straight away, when the breeze dies to a calm. You have to shorten the leader, or (better) change to a proper tapered one to fish effectively in calms or into the wind. Tight Lines, Tony Deacon

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Question:

Anyone know good spots in the Utica / Rome /Herkimer area?? Thanks Dave

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Dave, West Canada Creek is pretty good, as is Fly Creek between Cooperstown and Index on Rte 28.  If you head a little farther down into the Oneonta – Morris area both Otego Creek (Rte 205 & Cty Rte 11) and Butternut Creek in Morris right next to the Fairgrounds are also pretty good for small steam fishing. Hope this helps C. Segina

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Question:

I am considering a 4-piece Legend 4 or 5-weight. I would be grateful if anybody have some experiences or knowledge to share. The rod is not marketed in Norway, so it is difficult for me to test it personally. Grateful for any comments Jan Erik Frithjofsen

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I am considering a 4-piece Legend 4 or 5-weight. I would be grateful if anybody have some experiences or knowledge to share. The rod is not marketed in Norway, so it is difficult for me to test it personally. Grateful for any comments Jan Erik Frithjofsen

Hi Jan, I’ve found all of the St Croix fly rod to be very good including the 4 piece rods.  I’ve cast several of the their 4 piece rods and liked them but I never paid much attention to the actual name. Sorry! — Tight Lines Al Beatty BT’s Fly Fishing Products Bozeman, MT (97 catalog) http://www.flyshop.com/Expo/Specialty/BTsPdcts/index.html

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I am considering a 4-piece Legend 4 or 5-weight. I would be grateful if anybody have some experiences or knowledge to share. The rod is not marketed in Norway, so it is difficult for me to test it personally. Grateful for any comments Jan Erik Frithjofsen

Hi Jan,  I own 2 St Croix flyrods, a 2pc 7′ 3wt, and because I was so impressed with that one, I bought their Imperial Series 4pc 5/6wt. In my opinion, they are a "best buy" for the money. The Legend you ask about is their top-end fly rod, a little more expensive than the Imperial Series. I also own 5 Sage rods, so I have a fair basis for comparison. Considering the cost of a Sage, unless you absolutely have to have the best, the St Croix is the better buy. Now all you have to decide is whether you like the action of the rod. The Legend has a fast action (44 million modulus) while the Imperial is listed as a moderate action (42 mil mod) The difference in price between the Imperial and Legend travel rods is $135 vs $220. BTW, my 5/6 travel rod handled some very tough smallmouth bass this summer with no problems. It rides in my pickup truck behind the seat everywhere I go. Tight lines……. Frank Church Elkhart, IN —

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- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I am considering a 4-piece Legend 4 or 5-weight. I would be grateful if anybody have some experiences or knowledge to share. The rod is not marketed in Norway, so it is difficult for me to test it personally. Grateful for any comments Jan Erik Frithjofsen Hi Jan,  I own 2 St Croix flyrods, a 2pc 7′ 3wt, and because I was so impressed with that one, I bought their Imperial Series 4pc 5/6wt. In my opinion, they are a "best buy" for the money. The Legend you ask about is their top-end fly rod, a little more expensive than the Imperial Series. I also own 5 Sage rods, so I have a fair basis for comparison. Considering the cost of a Sage, unless you absolutely have to have the best, the St Croix is the better buy. Now all you have to decide is whether you like the action of the rod. The Legend has a fast action (44 million modulus) while the Imperial is listed as a moderate action (42 mil mod) The difference in price between the Imperial and Legend travel rods is $135 vs $220. BTW, my 5/6 travel rod handled some very tough smallmouth bass this summer with no problems. It rides in my pickup truck behind the seat everywhere I go. Tight lines……. Frank Church Elkhart, IN —

A correction to my post…the Imperial rods are 33 million modulus, not 42 as stated previously. Frank Church Elkhart, IN —

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Question:

I will be in New Mexico between November 6th and 19th.  I am planing to fish the San Juan.  Can anyone tell me how the fishing is that time of the year?  Are there other rivers that fish well in Nov?  Any suggestions regarding flies would also be appreciated.

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I will be in New Mexico between November 6th and 19th.  I am planing to fish the San Juan.  Can anyone tell me how the fishing is that time of the year?  Are there other rivers that fish well in Nov?  Any suggestions regarding flies would also be appreciated.

The fishing on San Juan seems to never change! It is always excellent. Please dress for all weather types and chest waders are mandatory. The water is between 36 and 42 degrees. We also just had a cold front come through and cooled things off. Check out http://www.thereellife.com/reellife/ for the fishing reports of this area and for the San Juan. I maintain this site for the store it represents. T. Edwards

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Question:

My girlfriend has asked me to teach her how to flyfish.  I’ve been an avid flyfisherman for three years now.  I feel I’m good enough to tie knots in the air with the best of them . A few questions: 1. I don’t want to spend a lot of money for a rod/reel that she may lose interest in so I’m going to get something that I can use in the future (if necessary).  Any opinions on the prepackaged everything-you-need-to-start-NOW rod/reel/line combos?  I’ve seen some ranging from $30 to $200. Quality is an issue. 2. She asked if being left-handed would make a difference.  It had never occurred to me that I routinely cast with either hand, depending on the situation (ie, how many flies I’ve lost in the tree to my right-rear).  Retrieving is always done with rod in right/reeling with left.  Just curious if any left-handers have had any problems learning or buying equipment. 3. Women’s waders: I haven’t been able to find any in stores around here (Grand Rapids, MI).  Any experiences with mail ordering women’s waders (good or bad) would be helpful.  She will use the waders irregardless of fishing since she’s into fisheries biology.  Looking for good 4mm or 5mm neoprene. I read the thread from a few months ago about teaching the Significant Other how to flyfish. Interesting advice that will be taken to heart. Thanks in advance. Tight lines, Brian Austin

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My girlfriend has asked me to teach her how to flyfish.  I’ve been an avid flyfisherman for three years now.  I feel I’m good enough to tie knots in the air with the best of them . (snip) 2. She asked if being left-handed would make a difference.  It had never occurred to me that I routinely cast with either hand, depending on the situation (ie, how many flies I’ve lost in the tree to my right-rear).  Retrieving is always done with rod in right/reeling with left.  Just curious if any left-handers have had any problems learning or buying equipment. Tight lines, Brian Austin

In terms of _learning_ to cast, my advice would be to stand in front of your girlfriend and have her "mirror" what you’re doing to get the timing, or stand to her left so she can see what you’re doing.  Or, get a copy of Ed Jaworowski’s book on casting (the best ever, IMHO). Enjoy! Doug Stewart

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Brain. I suggest you bring her to my small ranch in Montana. Hawley Mountain Ranch max guests 24 is in the Absaroka Wilderness 25 miles north of Yellowstone Park. You can fish the Boulder River, horse back ride, hike or just read a book. This summer I caught so many fish that—ok I also hurt my right arm moving rocks–my right arm hurt so I had to learn to teach fly fishing with my left. So now when I go to the stream either arm works.  As far as teaching your girlfriend to fish , I taught my first wife to drive. Will enought said on that point. I did teach Ellen new wife of 10yr. how to fish when she was a girlfriend. First time on the stream she caught and released 6 before I got a fly on— so be careful!!!  Enjoy her and the outdoors thats what life is about.                       Your Montana Friend!!!                          Bryant Blewett BBlewett

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Question:

You can get this book from Judith Bowman , Pound Ridge Rd.  Bedford, NY   10506       (914) 234-7543 Standard disclaimers blah blah…  – Bruce Conner

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Garrison & Carmichael’s "A master’s guide to bamboo rod building", as far as I know was reprinted for the third time recently (November 1994), and listed for about $60.  It seems to be a popular book, so by now the might really be out of print again.  Try to special order through a bookstore, since they can tell if there are still copies around.
                                   Sincerely,
                                   Kin Chan

I just received the latest catalog from Wilderness Adventures Sporting Books (1-800-925-3339), and they claim they have a few copies of "a master’s guide to building a bamboo rod". They go on to say that the publisher is sold out and Price……so we can all imagine what that means….. Inge

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: I just received the latest catalog from Wilderness Adventures Sporting Books : (1-800-925-3339), and they claim they have a few copies of "a master’s guide to : building a bamboo rod". They go on to say that the publisher is sold out and : Price……so we can all imagine what that means….. : Inge I went by the Philadelphia Orvis store, and they had it, new and boxed for $60.  their #: 215-567-6207

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: I just received the latest catalog from Wilderness Adventures Sporting Books : (1-800-925-3339), and they claim they have a few copies of "a master’s guide to : building a bamboo rod". They go on to say that the publisher is sold out and

: Price……so we can all imagine what that means….. : Inge I went by the Philadelphia Orvis store, and they had it, new and boxed for $60.  their #: 215-567-6207

For any folks out on the West Coast, Western Sport Shop in San Rafael has them in stock, at least a couple in the wraps.  Their ph# 415-456-5454 –Gene is the resident book expert.  They will ship, also.

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Hi folks! I’m new to the newsgroup but have been fly fishing since I was 6. I am looking for a copy of the book, "A Masters Guide to Building a Bamboo Fly Rod". This book is out of print. I suppose it is a "Classic" and therefore hard to find. Any information on fishing the Elk River in Tennessee would be appreciated.– Doug Chapman "Be sure you’re right, then go ahead." Davy Crockett

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Hi folks! I’m new to the newsgroup but have been fly fishing since I was 6. I am looking for a copy of the book, "A Masters Guide to Building a Bamboo Fly Rod". This book is out of print. I suppose it is a "Classic" and therefore hard to find.

It’s back! A Masters Guide to Building a Bamboo Fly Rod (3rd ed., 1994) Everett Garrison & Hoagy Carmichael Meadow Run Press Stone Harbor, NJ it’s $60 US (boxed hardcover) But if you’re at all serious it’s probably worth it. — Blair Sharpe Ottawa, ON, Canada

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