Question:

Anybody have an opinion on these reels?  I have the ability to buy one at a significant discount but don’t know a thing about them.  I’m looking at a model 11/12 and would like to use it in the salt along the east coast. Thanks, Bill

Response:

Anybody have an opinion on these reels?  I have the ability to buy one at a significant discount but don’t know a thing about them.  I’m looking at a model 11/12 and would like to use it in the salt along the east coast.

Redington makes a fine product.  I have a large arbor in a smaller line weight and really like the reel.  The big concern now is the fact that Redington will soon discontinue manufacturing these reels for a new line.  Parts and service have been a big question with the old reel lines.  Redington was owned by Orvis at one time and apparently that partnership has dissolved and Redington is out on their own.  Smart move, IMHO. — remove all x’s for reply email. To worry is folly so let us be jolly.

Response:

The drag mechanisms get a bit rusty if not looked after properly. I used one in the salt for a few hours and it had started to rust before I even got out. But with care they can last for a helluva long time. I’ve got customers who’ve certain of the reels for three or four years of incessant saltwaterfishing with no problems. Ari Anybody have an opinion on these reels?  I have the ability to buy one at a significant discount but don’t know a thing about them.  I’m looking at a model 11/12 and would like to use it in the salt along the east coast. Thanks, Bill

Ari & Gaelle Bert                                   +27 (0) 83 232 9903 & +27 (0) 83 236 5308 +27 (0) 11 443 9984 / +27 (0) 11 882 8537 (fax)                 www.troutfishing.co.za www.africanfishing.com Physical Address: 72 Swemmer Rd, Sunningdale, 2192 Postal Address: P.O.Box 79067, Senderwood, 2145, South Africa

Response:

Redington makes a fine product.

    Redington doesn’t make anything. They are a marketing company that "outsources" all of their products. Not that it matters in this case, Redington reels have a good reputation.

Response:

I was told by a local fly shop owner that these reels are made in Korea.  He also said they have an unconditional lifetime warranty. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text –     Redington doesn’t make anything. They are a marketing company that "outsources" all of their products. Not that it matters in this case, Redington reels have a good reputation.

Response:

Redington don

Question:

Back legs extended, front claws out – Back Scratcher. — Frank Reid Reverse email to reply. Another cat person – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – On its back legs up … magazine rack that doesn’t scuff the covers. Steve (Actually a cat person … especially Abyssinians)

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Well, evidently Mr. Reid did, though it bears mentioning that Mr. Reid implies (at least) that he has no memory or knowledge of having said anything that would indicate that he did.  On the other hand, Mr. Reid would, we hope, certainly deny that he made any such denial, especially in light of the documentary record plainly demonstrating the utter absence of any such denial.  Meanwhile, Mr. Reid, having recently returned to the fold, is up to his old tricks vis a vis objectors objecting to objections, while simultaneously and vehemently objecting to the notion that he ever left in the first place.  The careful reader will, of course, not be fooled by any of the foregoing as it clear, plain, and uncategorically inarguable that that couldn’t possibly have happened given the time constraints and the relative implausibility of Mr. Reid’s simultaneous cohabitation in more than roughly three planes at any given moment.  Hope this clears things up. Hum? Wolfgang

Cool, I know drugs kicked in ’cause I totally grokked that.  BTW, am I in New Zealand or Maryland today? — Frank Reid Reverse email to reply.

Response:

[gross humour snipped] Which begs the question, was it a case of mistaken identity or … Steve

Response:

[gross humour snipped] Which begs the question, was it a case of mistaken identity or … Steve

Being too drunk, high, stoned etc. to know what you were doing . . . Peter Visit The Streamer Page at http://home.cogeco.ca/~pcharles/streamers/index.html

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -Well, evidently Mr. Reid did, though it bears mentioning that Mr. Reid implies (at least) that he has no memory or knowledge of having said anything that would indicate that he did.  On the other hand, Mr. Reid would, we hope, certainly deny that he made any such denial, especially in light of the documentary record plainly demonstrating the utter absence of any such denial.  Meanwhile, Mr. Reid, having recently returned to the fold, is up to his old tricks vis a vis objectors objecting to objections, while simultaneously and vehemently objecting to the notion that he ever left in the first place.  The careful reader will, of course, not be fooled by any of the foregoing as it clear, plain, and uncategorically inarguable that that couldn’t possibly have happened given the time constraints and the relative implausibility of Mr. Reid’s simultaneous cohabitation in more than roughly three planes at any given moment.  Hope this clears things up.  Hum? Wolfgang who, becoming hopelessly confused anent who is likely to do how much damage to whom under which circumstances and when, is giving serious consideration to kicking his own ass this weekend and being done with it!    :(

You planning on any ice skating judging in the next little while? Peter Visit The Streamer Page at http://home.cogeco.ca/~pcharles/streamers/index.html

Response:

Hey Op, I’m in for c-note.  Does this mean YOU are coming to the Penn’s clave? Gonna make it to the presentation? john

Whether I make it to the Penn’s ‘Clave is a matter to be determined.  Still waitin’ to hear from Mr. Fortenberry.  ’Course he may never have seen my post on the subject, as he has me blocked and all, and in that case if I don’t hear back from him within two weeks of the ‘clave I will attend, come hell of high water. I will attend the presentation, as long as it doesn’t involve you and an out door shower! Op

Response:

A LIAR AND THOSE WHO MAKE THREATS CANNOT BE TRUSTED: You are known for your lies and that you cannot be trusted.  Even this message of yours must be reported to the authorities Mike Connor and all of this is of your doing. It is time Klaus does something positive about you because his trust in you has been violated as you have indeed violated Roff and many of its’ members. You must be stopped before you do something very, very stupid. It is time to post every negative thought, every negative deed, every name calling post you send to Roff.  Until you stop your insane conduct, every abuse you bestow upon the American Fly Fishing Scene will be reported until you stop. Do you understand this Mike Connor? George Gehrke "it’s time to police your pathetic conduct Connor"

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I pledge $100.00 to Mike’s trip across the water, but only if he will spend his time at a ‘clave over here.  Any ‘clave will do, but wouldn’t it be nice if he made an appearance at the Penn’s ‘Clave! Mike, please don’t waste your time and energy on confronting an obviously deranged individual.  I honestly don’t think George can help himself.  I have no doubt that the rest of the folks pledging funds would rather see you in the flesh fishin’, than see you on the back pages of some local paper’s arrest report.  Do you realize how much satisfaction George would get from you being hauled off to an *American* jail, before you ever got to lay a finger on him? Anyway, hope to meet ya some day, at a ‘clave! Op  –eternal optimist– Well Op, that is very kind of you, and I appreciate the sentiment, but I don

Question:

Actually they are not. Change in angle of attack (not pitch)  changes the airspeed. Pitch change and angle of attack change are not always coincident, as we both well know. And of course, increased  pitch can indeed make the aircraft go up, since it can change the airspeed and therefore the power requirement, and the excess power causes the aircraft to climb.

As we say in my field, "Everything is deeply intertwingled."  Most control inputs on aircraft are NOT isolated in their effects.

Response:

Check out the latest instrument flying handbook (page 5-17). Entering a constant rate climb is different to managing a constant rate climb once you’re established – if you’re not entering it right and hence not getting established right then it probably is difficult to get it all sorted out. If you’re trying to do this in 500 foot chunks (pattern A, pattern B etc.) try a 3000 foot climb, that will give you plenty of time to work out all the relationships. Performance = power + attitude So know what power setting and what pitch angle gets the result you want, set those values and the plane will do what you want. Mat

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I’m about 8 hours into my instrument training and am having triouble with constant rate climbs and descents. I Just can’t seem to nail the climb or descent rate. I know that I am supposed to pitch for vertical speed and adjust power for airspeed, but I’m still all over the place. The 5-6 second lag on the VSI is throwing me off. Any suggestions? -Dennis

Response:

Learn the pitch attitude on the AI and the power that give you specific performance. Maintain attitude/power setting to see if that gives you what you want and adjust accordingly. Just don’t chase the airspeed and VSI needles. Bracket it in with small pitch or power changes. Kind of like tracking a course .. track a heading .. evaluate it’s effect .. then change heading if needed. It might help to go out VFR and make a list of the attitude and power combos that give specific descent/climb/airspeed. Write these down and memorize them as starting points in the future. I think you’re on the right track with pitching to vertical speed and adjust airspeed with power.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I’m about 8 hours into my instrument training and am having triouble with constant rate climbs and descents. I Just can’t seem to nail the climb or descent rate. I know that I am supposed to pitch for vertical speed and adjust power for airspeed, but I’m still all over the place. The 5-6 second lag on the VSI is throwing me off. Any suggestions? -Dennis

Response:

Well, I looked up "intertwingled", and I couldn’t find it. The nearest I  could find  is "intertwined" and "intermingled", so I will assume your word "intertwingled" is a coinage of a word to mean something between the two, or perhaps a combination thereof. The thing I fail to see is your point, unless you mean, for example, that there is an intertwingling when a  change of pitch results in a change of angle of attack which results in a change in airspeed which results in a change of the power required to maintain altitude, thus the aircraft cl;imbs. Which is what I said in the first place, so I agree.  It’s intertwingled.  So one could maintain that a pitch change is what makes the aircraft climb.   But it would indicate a lack of understanding, don’t you agree? – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Actually they are not. Change in angle of attack (not pitch)  changes the airspeed. Pitch change and angle of attack change are not always coincident, as we both well know. And of course, increased  pitch can indeed make the aircraft go up, since it can change the airspeed and therefore the power requirement, and the excess power causes the aircraft to climb. As we say in my field, "Everything is deeply intertwingled."  Most control inputs on aircraft are NOT isolated in their effects.

Response:

Well, I looked up "intertwingled", and I couldn’t find it. The nearest I  could find  is "intertwined" and "intermingled", so I will assume your word "intertwingled" is a coinage of a word to mean something between the two, or perhaps a combination thereof.

You’re right, it’s a made up word, but it was coined by one of the key people in the field so it shows up from time to time. The thing I fail to see is your point, unless you mean, for example, that there is an intertwingling when a  change of pitch results in a change of angle of attack which results in a change in airspeed which results in a change of the power required to maintain altitude, thus the aircraft climbs.

Changing the pitch, changes the angle of attack, which increases lift and causes the plane to climb.  It also slows the plane down, which decreases lift.  Of course drag also plays into this, which all means that you just can’t change one control in isolation to the others no matter what you are trying to accomplish. Back when I was working for the Army, another Army lab nearby did some Human Engineering work with a fly-by-wire helicopter system.  They totally decoupled the controls as the pilot saw them:  The "collective" made you go up and down at a rate proportional to it’s displacment , the "cyclic" caused you to translate in the direction of it’s displacement, the pedals just rotated the aircraft at a speed proportional their displacment.  It evidentally drove anybody who really knew how to fly helicopters crazy as they wanted to put in the corrections that their training had conditioned them to know were required.

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Well, I looked up "intertwingled", and I couldn’t find it. The nearest I  could find  is "intertwined" and "intermingled", so I will assume your word "intertwingled" is a coinage of a word to mean something between the two, or perhaps a combination thereof. You’re right, it’s a made up word, but it was coined by one of the key people in the field so it shows up from time to time. The thing I fail to see is your point, unless you mean, for example, that there is an intertwingling when a  change of pitch results in a change of angle of attack which results in a change in airspeed which results in a change of the power required to maintain altitude, thus the aircraft climbs. Changing the pitch, changes the angle of attack, which increases lift and causes the plane to climb.  It also slows the plane down, which decreases lift.  Of course drag also plays into this, which all means that you just can’t change one control in isolation to the others no matter what you are trying to accomplish.

There may be a momentary increase in lift, which causes an acceleration upwards, but I would not call it "causing the plane to climb".  I think it is more aptly called "swooping", which takes place until the aircraft returns to steady state. Steady state climbing has nothing to do with increasing lift.  It is due to excess of power.   Lift is equal to weight as it was in level flight. (Yes I know: sum of upward forces = sum of downward forces, for the purists). And one other thing.  It is quite possible to change one control in isolation to the others.  Whjat is variable is the aircraft’s resulting performance. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -Back when I was working for the Army, another Army lab nearby did some Human Engineering work with a fly-by-wire helicopter system.  They totally decoupled the controls as the pilot saw them:  The "collective" made you go up and down at a rate proportional to it’s displacment , the "cyclic" caused you to translate in the direction of it’s displacement, the pedals just rotated the aircraft at a speed proportional their displacment.  It evidentally drove anybody who really knew how to fly helicopters crazy as they wanted to put in the corrections that their training had conditioned them to know were required.

Response:

Well, I looked up "intertwingled", and I couldn’t find it. The nearest I  could find  is "intertwined" and "intermingled", so I will assume your word "intertwingled" is a coinage of a word to mean something between the two, or perhaps a combination thereof. You’re right, it’s a made up word, but it was coined by one of the key people in the field so it shows up from time to time.

Which field is that?  And who? Just curious, John

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Well, I looked up "intertwingled", and I couldn’t find it. The nearest I  could find  is "intertwined" and "intermingled", so I will assume your word "intertwingled" is a coinage of a word to mean something between the two, or perhaps a combination thereof. You’re right, it’s a made up word, but it was coined by one of the key people in the field so it shows up from time to time. Which field is that?  And who?

Systems Analysis.  Tom DeMarco (principle guy at Yourdon).

Response:

Yes, I was taught to lead with a power setting. The instructor even had me make up a list of typical power settings and post them on the panel. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – If you know the power setting and pitch that will give you the desired performance it should be easy.  Just set the power and pitch and the plane will climb at the desired rate.  Same thing for descents.  Don’t chase the VSI. Mike MU-2 I’m about 8 hours into my instrument training and am having triouble with constant rate climbs and descents. I Just can’t seem to nail the climb or descent rate. I know that I am supposed to pitch for vertical speed and adjust power for airspeed, but I’m still all over the place. The 5-6 second lag on the VSI is throwing me off. Any suggestions? -Dennis

– "ground zero" is clearing up, but the fallout from the towers still rains down around the world.

Response:

I struggled with this too until a seemingly obvious discovery was made; I wasn’t using the AI to set pitch.  After years of flying slippery gliders w/o AIs, and transitioning to  flying lightly loaded light aircraft, it never occurred to me to use the AI to set pitch in a climb or descent. Why?  Well, the slippery stuff is quite sensitive to pitch and not as stable as light planes, but since you fly it in turbulent conditions most of the time, and because they lack good visible references over the nose, and because power is constant (0), and because they are usually cranked over in a steep bank, I ended up using the airspeed most of time (the glider VSI is useless in determining pitch).  That is, look at the horizon then calibrate it by looking at the airspeed (esp airspeed trend).  Anyway, this works quite well in lightplanes, even under the hood when you combine it with the VSI…. at least up to a point… My instructors never really noticed except that my climbs and descents weren’t always as crisp as they should be.  I slowly discovered that I could use the AI to set a specific pitch attitude along with a specific rpm/mp to get a specific climb or descent.  One bar up, one bar down, etc.  I know the old pros here are probably snickering but I wonder if they specifically tell students how to use line widths on the AI to set up a specific pitch (?). No one told me that since my first instructional flights back in the 70s — and they probably should have covered up the AI then.  Otis, you were the first person in this post to specifically state what  one should do.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Learn the pitch attitude on the AI and the power that give you specific performance. Maintain attitude/power setting to see if that gives you what you want and adjust accordingly. Just don’t chase the airspeed and VSI needles. Bracket it in with small pitch or power changes. Kind of like tracking a course .. track a heading .. evaluate it’s effect .. then change heading if needed. It might help to go out VFR and make a list of the attitude and power combos that give specific descent/climb/airspeed. Write these down and memorize them as starting points in the future. I think you’re on the right track with pitching to vertical speed and adjust airspeed with power. I’m about 8 hours into my instrument training and am having triouble with constant rate climbs and descents. I Just can’t seem to nail the climb or descent rate. I know that I am supposed to pitch for vertical speed and adjust power for airspeed, but I’m still all over the place. The 5-6 second lag on the VSI is throwing me off. Any suggestions? -Dennis

Response:

Just fly the airplane. Get used to it. Add some power, pitch up if needed, trim, and maintain steady climb. Take power off, pitch down if needed, trim, and keep a steady descent. Just get a feel for it — there’s nothing mechanical about it. Getting a feel for the airplane you fly will tell you how much of each to do so that you can arrive at the desired point quickly and without too much fishing for the right settings. Go out on your own with the airplane, better without instructor on board, nobody to contaminate your thought process and play a couple of hours in changing its configuration to desired climbs and descents until you become smooth. Go slow flight, back and forth until you get a sense for the acceleration and deceleration while doing pitch and power changes and keeping level or exact VSI numbers. At one point I had memorized the setting on the Archer, until they rebuilt the engine and it felt like it got more power, then I had to get resettled so that I could fly my IFR routines smoothly.  Forget about the physics discussions, most folks love to talk about a subject they lack — you need solid differential calculus to truly claim to understand how exactly the forces interact but thankfully it is not needed. Just fly the damn thing.         D.         PP_ASEL IA – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I’m about 8 hours into my instrument training and am having triouble with constant rate climbs and descents. I Just can’t seem to nail the climb or descent rate. I know that I am supposed to pitch for vertical speed and adjust power for airspeed, but I’m still all over the place. The 5-6 second lag on the VSI is throwing me off. Any suggestions? -Dennis

Response:

Yeah, find a power and pitch combo that will give you the performance you want.  When you want a certain constant rate climb just set your power, set your pitch(and maintain it) wait till the aircraft stabilizes and then make final corrections.  Usually the aircraft will stabilize at the target airspeed if you are patient and you won’t find yourself chasing needles. Use the VSI only as a trend instrument unless you have a Vario or IVSI, even then (1) Power,for climb (2) Pitch, to airspeed (3) verify Rate when stabilized at target airspeed.  With a little practice this sequence becomes automatic , and very reliable.  Once the numbers are determined the only variant factors are mainly, load(gross wt.), altitude, configuration , and C.G. Happy Flying R.Wallace CFIAIM

Response:

That’s how I was taught early on .. and I learned back in the 70s too. One bar .. two bar .. up .. down .. xxxx rpm. I think most problems chasing the needles come from dwelling on certain instruments and not maintaining a good scan with the AI as "home base". Actually .. there’s an old book I have laying around somewhere .. I can’t recall the exact title .. I want to say "Performance Flying’"??? Anyway it explains a lot of this and actually gives examples of attitude and power for several different aircraft. I’ll try to find it and post exact title. Don’t know if it’s still available or not.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I struggled with this too until a seemingly obvious discovery was made; I wasn’t using the AI to set pitch.

Response:

Thanks for all of your suggestions. Sounds like I need to go out and do a little experimenting with the plane on my own to find the right combinations of pitch/power to get the right results.

Response:

I’m about 8 hours into my instrument training and am having triouble with constant rate climbs and descents. I Just can’t seem to nail the climb or descent rate. I know that I am supposed to pitch for vertical speed and adjust power for airspeed, but I’m still all over the place.

I don’t want to get into a pitch/power argument here, but… You already have your constant airspeed climb and descent, right? Set up the exact same way. Note your climb or descent rate. Assuming a fixed pitch propeller, add or reduce power by 100 rpm increments, maintaining the same airspeed (you’re already trimmed for it, aren’t you?) until you get the rate you want. Now you’ll know the pitch/power combination for that rate in your airplane. The 5-6 second lag on the VSI is throwing me off. Any suggestions?

You used the word "lag." So you already know the answer. WAIT the 5-6 seconds before you do anything else! – Mark Kolber APA, Denver, Colorado www.midlifeflight.com       email? replace "spamaway" with "mkolber

Response:

Okay Capt…..   when you are 100′ agl on final in your Boeing and your speed degrades, you push the nose down right…???     Read the Delta crash report at DFW many years ago and you will be enlightened…. John….. an almost 20,000 hour pilot who has is figured out

Response:

Excess power only means an airplane is capable of climbing……    increasing angle of attack makes it climb…. or changes the rate of climb

Response:

I’m about 8 hours into my instrument training and am having triouble with constant rate climbs and descents. I Just can’t seem to nail the climb or descent rate. I know that I am supposed to pitch for vertical speed and adjust power for airspeed, but I’m still all over the place. The 5-6 second lag on the VSI is throwing me off. Any suggestions? -Dennis

Many long years ago when I was in learning to fly instruments, I had the same problem. The trouble was that I found it very difficult to hold a constant pressure fore-and-aft on the yoke.  I solved the problem by locking my arm into position against the side wall of the aircraft and the arm rest.  If I needed to adjust elevators, I would move my whole arm slightly.  I could still adjust aileron with finger pressure.  Later, I learned what the trim tab was for. I still use the locked arm trick when it is bumpy.  It keeps the bumps from causing elevator inputs. The Comanche can be quite sensitive in pitch.  It works for me.  YMMV. Hank Henry A. Spellman Comanche N5903P

Response:

I know that I am supposed to pitch for vertical speed and adjust power for airspeed,

Wow!!!  20,000+ hours and never knew that this was the way that I should be doing it.  Maybe I needed a different flight instructor.  :-)  :-) Power make the airplane go up and down….. Pitch  makes the airplane go fast or slow……. These are basic aerodynamic principles. Bob Moore ATP ASMEL  B-707, B-727, L-188 CFI  ASE-IA USN  S-2F, P-2V, P-3B PanAm (retired)

Response:

Power make the airplane go up and down….. Pitch  makes the airplane go fast or slow…….

        Not according to the FAA which recommends power to establish speed and pitch to stay on the glide slope.

Response:

"Pitch to the glideslope, power to the airspeed." That’s the way I was taught to fly jets, and that’s the way the autopilot does it. Bob Gardner

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I know that I am supposed to pitch for vertical speed and adjust power for airspeed, Wow!!!  20,000+ hours and never knew that this was the way that I should be doing it.  Maybe I needed a different flight instructor.  :-)  :-) Power make the airplane go up and down….. Pitch  makes the airplane go fast or slow……. These are basic aerodynamic principles. Bob Moore ATP ASMEL  B-707, B-727, L-188 CFI  ASE-IA USN  S-2F, P-2V, P-3B PanAm (retired)

Response:

Actually they are not. Change in angle of attack (not pitch)  changes the airspeed. Pitch change and angle of attack change are not always coincident, as we both well know. And of course, increased  pitch can indeed make the aircraft go up, since it can change the airspeed and therefore the power requirement, and the excess power causes the aircraft to climb. Unless, fo course, you are on the back side of the power curve, in which case… But I know you know all that. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I know that I am supposed to pitch for vertical speed and adjust power for airspeed, Wow!!!  20,000+ hours and never knew that this was the way that I should be doing it.  Maybe I needed a different flight instructor.  :-)  :-) Power make the airplane go up and down….. Pitch  makes the airplane go fast or slow……. These are basic aerodynamic principles. Bob Moore ATP ASMEL  B-707, B-727, L-188 CFI  ASE-IA USN  S-2F, P-2V, P-3B PanAm (retired)

Response:

Power make the airplane go up and down….. Pitch  makes the airplane go fast or slow……. These are basic aerodynamic principles.

This always reminds me of the joke where the student goes out on the runway and jams the control wheel forward and the instructor asks what he’s doing and he says "when this thing hits 60, you push the throttle in and we’ll climb."  :-)

Response:

I’m about 8 hours into my instrument training and am having triouble with constant rate climbs and descents. I Just can’t seem to nail the climb or descent rate. I know that I am supposed to pitch for vertical speed and adjust power for airspeed, but I’m still all over the place. The 5-6 second lag on the VSI is throwing me off. Any suggestions? -Dennis

Response:

If you know the power setting and pitch that will give you the desired performance it should be easy.  Just set the power and pitch and the plane will climb at the desired rate.  Same thing for descents.  Don’t chase the VSI. Mike MU-2

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I’m about 8 hours into my instrument training and am having triouble with constant rate climbs and descents. I Just can’t seem to nail the climb or descent rate. I know that I am supposed to pitch for vertical speed and adjust power for airspeed, but I’m still all over the place. The 5-6 second lag on the VSI is throwing me off. Any suggestions? -Dennis

Response:

Question:

Just what went on at the Yellowstone clave?

Lots of fishing, beer drinking, and BSing around the fire. Opening weekend we unintentionally offended a cranky old man, who turned out to be the father of Forest Service Ranger Chad, and Chad took it upon himself to harass us until we left. Pissed us off mightily at the time, but looking back on it a few weeks later, he was just a minor nuisance (say, like getting bitten by a deer fly) in what was otherwise a wonderful week with a great bunch of guys, in a beautiful setting. Did Charlie give Vern a fire extinguisher before shipment?

I just hope he remembered to punch a few air holes in the box. Has anyone else read Ruark’s "The Honey Badger" more than once, and if so, did your opinion(s) vary wildly each time?

I read almost all of his books, and my opinions varied wildly from page to page.  I got the feeling he was writing his autobiography over and over again, and felt that maybe he should quit whining (and perhaps cut back on the whiskey a bit). We’re on the fifth week of a hot, dry spell here in ND.  My garden withered away and got chewed down to the ground (except, of course, for the weeds) by grasshoppers while we were in Montana. Kevin

Response:

I have an opportunity to catch up a bit with ROFF after several weeks of travel and adventure, and it’s good to see nothing has changed. However, I have missed a few details, and I always hate to miss the last episode of a series, even if it is "Survivor," therefore: Did the Collier/Poodlesfly scam go undiscovered, or at least, unreported? Just what went on at the Yellowstone clave? Did Charlie give Vern a fire extinguisher before shipment? Has anyone pointed out there is a river in Oklahoma and Texas named the Canadian, not to mention an OK county, a Texas town, etc.?  Heck, "Canadian District" appears on old Cherokee Nation census stuff (from the US, or EU, for some of us)…. Can Jeff and Louie email each other without a note from Bill Gates and two kids from MIT? Has anyone else read Ruark’s "The Honey Badger" more than once, and if so, did your opinion(s) vary wildly each time? OBROFF – went fishing some, caught some, got rained on where we didn’t need it, and didn’t where we did.  We have a river on some of our land large enough to warrant Rand-Macnally’s considerations, and, sadly, you can now jump it in places…and without being Evil Kineval (or Opie)… Muskie, ol’ boy, if you read this, there is something to bitch and moan about, and guess what?  It was not caused by GW or Bill and Hillary or either major party (or I guess, maybe all of them) – it was caused by good old fashioned greed with a good dose of stupidity thrown in to ensure a real mess…. TC, R TC, R

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Question:

We’ll be in southern Ontario at Sterling Lodge in late May.  Has anyone had any experience fly fishing for pike there?  If so, I’d appreciate any tips re: locations, flies, etc.  Thanks. — Keith Kriebel and Linda Wells

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We’ll be at Sterling Lodge in southern Ontario in late May.  Does anyone have experience fly fishing for pike there?  If so, I’d appreciate any information re: locations, flies, etc.  Thanks. — Keith Kriebel and Linda Wells

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Question:

Does Orvis recommend snagging?<

I don’t think so, unless the object of the snagging is customers…..

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In the September-October 1995 Orvis News, Orvis recommends a new method of weighting a wet fly (in this case, Orvis egg clusters) so that there is nothing between the fly and the strike putty but line.  The theory is that putting a weight between the fly and the strike indicator will mask a strike, because action at the end of the line will be delayed on its way past the weight.   To avoid this, Orvis recommends clinch-knotting another length of line to the bend of the hook and attaching Orvis’s weighted putty to the other end of this line.  According to Michigan fishing regulations, I believe that is snagging (or at least an illegal method for taking trout and salmon).  Is it legal elsewhere?  Does Orvis realize it is giving bad advice?

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To avoid this, Orvis recommends clinch-knotting another length of line to the bend of the hook and attaching Orvis’s weighted putty to the other end of this line.  According to Michigan fishing regulations, I believe that is snagging (or at least an illegal method for taking trout and salmon).  Is it legal elsewhere?  Does Orvis realize it is giving bad advice?

Sounds like bad advice in terms of drift too.  One advantage to putting the weight above the fly is that it leaves the fly free to drift about as the weight bounces along the bottom.  With the alleged Orvis system, the fly is suspended between the weight dragging along the bottom and the line or strike indicator dragging in the current.  It sounds like it would make it tougher to keep the fly drifting naturally. But Orvis’s point about the weight interfering with sensing the strike is a good one. — -Wayne Trzyna

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Question:

I am looking at buying (or building) a 7 foot 3wt rod and was wondering if anyone has any suggestions about rods they particularly enjoy.

Winston 7′6" 2 wt…Killer rod for small stream/small pond use, casts just beautifully…I caught a 20" rainbow on this last year and thought I was gonna die – the most fun I’ve had trout’n! /dave <<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<< < Digital Equipment Corp.    Alpha Server Engineering  < <           "Read this and nobody gets hurt"           < <<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<

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I am looking at buying (or building) a 7 foot 3wt rod and was wondering if anyone has any suggestions about rods they particularly enjoy. Thanks

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: I am looking at buying (or building) a 7 foot 3wt : rod and was wondering if anyone has any suggestions : about rods they particularly enjoy. : Thanks It’s a little off, but I just built a Sage 7′9" 3wt LL and it’s a real sweetheart.  Moderately slow action, deep flex.  It makes working with only 6 to 10 feet of line out a pleasure.  Much better on small creeks like the St. Vrain than my 9′ Sage RPL.  Have fun, I’m sure you’ll get LOTS of good suggestions.

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My favorite brookie rod is a 6 1/2 foot 3/4 wt., built on a Loomis IM-6 blank by a local rod builder (Dave Lewis – Performance Fly Rods). IMO exquisite rods don’t have to be hideously expensive or built from this year’s latest & trendiest graphite permutation. Short rods in general can be a real joy in the tight quarters of Appalachian brook trout streams.

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I am looking at buying (or building) a 7 foot 3wt rod and was wondering if anyone has any suggestions about rods they particularly enjoy.

I have a Loomis 78" 3wt GL3 rod that has a much softer action than the 9′ Loomis IMX rods that I also own and love. The GL3, a relatively low-tech composite, is delightful for small streams and gentle presentations, yet packs sufficient punch for 50 foot casts.

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 I am interested in a backpackingflyfishing trip to the Warner Mountains in north east California this summer.  I would greatly appreciate hearing from anyone who has had a successful trip there who could suggest a route and lakesstreams to fish. Thanks in advance for your help Stu    

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I am looking at buying (or building) a 7 foot 3wt rod and was wondering if anyone has any suggestions about rods they particularly enjoy. I have a Loomis 78" 3wt GL3 rod that has a much softer action than the 9′ Loomis IMX rods that I also own and love. The GL3, a relatively low-tech composite, is delightful for small streams and gentle presentations, yet packs sufficient punch for 50 foot casts.

I would add: give consideration to used or bargain glass rods eg. Phillipson, or Scott in the 7 to 7 1/2 foot range in three to five weight. Especially with the softer lighter rods in close quarters, try using a line weight heavier than called for by the rod. With short casts under 30 feet as a rule, that combination works very well. I also think the Orvis 7 1/2 foot Brook Trout model is very good for our small, Eastern Mid-Atlantic jewels. Tight Lines, — Regards, Christian — PGP fingerprint:  BC 66 2A 6C 82 8E 1C 50    18 87 67 A0 DB 7B F2 84

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– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text –   I am looking at buying (or building) a 7 foot 3wt   rod and was wondering if anyone has any suggestions   about rods they particularly enjoy.   I have a Loomis 78" 3wt GL3 rod that has a much softer action than the   9′ glass rods eg. Phillipson, or Scott in the 7 to 7 1/2 foot range in three to five weight. Especially with the softer lighter rods in close quarters, try using a line weight heavier than called for by the rod. With short casts under 30 feet as a rule, that combination works very well. I also think the Orvis 7 1/2 foot Brook Trout model is very good for our small, Eastemore but I

attach an ultralight spinning reel to the cork handle with electricians tape and use it for casting ultralight (1/64 -1/16 oz.) jigs and lures. I still like the action. — + – - – - – - – - – - – - – - – - – - – - – - – - – - – - – - – - – - – - + | Disclaimer: Contents under pressure, do not | + – - – - – - – - – - – - – - – - – - – - – - – - – - – - – - – - – - – - +

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o.k. here’s a cheapy but one that everyone always wants to borrow.  grf 1000 by courtland    comes in  6.5  ft.   and mine  7 ft.   3 / 4  wt.  a real sweetheart for about  $70.  very rugged with a smooth , sanded finish.  medium – slow  action  drops a # 20 midge right on the nose of a rainbow  or a # 10  damslefly nymph into the jaws of a largemouth and then hauls ‘em in. lexington, ma. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – My favorite brookie rod is a 6 1/2 foot 3/4 wt., built on a Loomis IM-6 blank by a local rod builder (Dave Lewis – Performance Fly Rods). IMO exquisite rods don’t have to be hideously expensive or built from this year’s latest & trendiest graphite permutation. Short rods in general can be a real joy in the tight quarters of Appalachian brook trout streams.

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Question:

I believe you mean Angling Specialties in Concord, don’t you. You could do a lot worse. They run a good shop in my view. They also have branches in Mississauga and Scarborough. Skinners in fine and with a long .. um .. "tradition" … which along with the expensive real estate tends to be a factor on your bill. — David A. Calderisi

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Does any one Know of any fly shops in the greater Toronto area?? I’ve been to Fishing Specialties in Concord just north of Toronto. I would like to know if there are any others.

Loris; Skinner Sport, 50 King Street East, Toronto         Right downtown, great store (biggest collection of flies I’ve ever seen) good people if a little strange. If you want an Orvis shop there is a new(er) one in Fergus about an hour away. Grand River Troutfitters, 790 Tower St. Fergus. Owner Ken Collins. He will ship if you call him. (519) 787-4359 Hope it helps —                         Dept. OB/GYN                         University of Western Ontario                         London, Ontario, CANADA

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there are a total of 3 separate Angling Specialties in the Toronto area, each with slightly different inventories and trun over rates.  In addition to these there is Skinners on king downtown, a toronto institution.  THere stock is on the light side but they are the only Orvis dealer around.  If you are willing to dirve to the KW guelph are there are several excellent shops.  Kingsway in north Guelph has an excellent fly tying section.  Natrual sports in kitchener is pretty good to.  There is the forks fly shop in inglewoood and northeast anglers in grimsby.  Lebaron in toronto (2 locations) is good for terminal tackle Best prices around.  And of course in oshawa there are a couple more shops.  Your best bet is to go to the fly forum the first week end in april. Ian Feir – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Hi all, Does any one Know of any fly shops in the greater Toronto area?? I’ve been to Fishing Specialties in Concord just north of Toronto. I would like to know if there are any others. Thanx in advance and tight lines, Loris

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Hi all, Does any one Know of any fly shops in the greater Toronto area?? I’ve been to Fishing Specialties in Concord just north of Toronto. I would like to know if there are any others. Thanx in advance and tight lines, Loris

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Question:

Hello to all, I am planning a vacation for next year and would like to get some information about FF in Belize.  I am considering a combination of FF and SCUBA diving and have concluded that the Turneffe Lodge would be able to accommedate my needs. Could anyone please provide + – information about FF or SCUBA in the country of Belize. Thank you for your time —         Mark A. Covian         Denver, CO

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Hello to all, I am planning a vacation for next year and would like to get some information about FF in Belize.  I am considering a combination of FF and SCUBA diving and have concluded that the Turneffe Lodge would be able to accommedate my needs.

Wow, underwater flycasting! (couldn’t resist <g) — Blair Sharpe Ottawa, ON, Canada

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Mark I just got back form Belize last spring.  I dove and flyfished.  THe flyfishing guides real expensive but I managed to chase bonefish on some of the keys off of Placentia.  I also had a lot of fun chasing Jacks in some of the smaller lagoons.  I had a blast. If youhave questions give me a call 213 461-34222

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Question:

Watch out for the new toilet rings they are not the old beeswax kind and are to soft and oily. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Try Test clips from Radio shack, they are a lot cheaper than those from the fly shop.  Also,  Wax Toilet gaskets make about the tackiest dubbing Arrrrrrg!  THE WAX TOILET GASKET.    What a great idea.  I thought this thread was dead.  We  were just ready to put together kits and start tying.  We would have come up short.  But saved by the toilet gasket.    What can we use to store all this great equipment?  Maybe we should go to a pot party and buy some Tupper ware.   Nah!  We are doing such a fine job.  Throw the plastic out.   I’m a river keeper, too!      .

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Thread sucking is a method…

And here I thought that I had invented this.  Oh well, another delusion of grandeur blown all to bits… <grin regards, John — Dr. John G. Hardie Indiana University Cyclotron Facility

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Thread sucking is a method…

      Sounds a little like Blondie’s definition of Dagwood as a fly tyer: "thread-sucking-leach." —

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writes: I would like to start a new thread on fly tying tools and paraphernalia, specifically, home-brew tools or modifications to store-bought ones.  I am afraid of this hobby going the way of many others, where the manufacturers (and peer pressure) convince everyone that they need to buy things that are easily made at home.  I offer a few here to get things going: Who wants to add more? Dave

Here is another one for the bench.  You can make an inexpensive dubbing teaser by asking your dentist for a root-canal pick.  Epoxy them in a wood handle and you got yourself an Awsome Dubbing Teaser. Nick

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I use a selection of cartridge cases instead of an adjustable hair stacker.  Short = 9 mm Parabellum, Medium = 357 Mag, Long = Sawed off rifle case. — Keep your stick on the ice.

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- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I think there is a point where using home grown flytying tools vs. store bought tools is more trouble than it’s worth.  Hackle pliers are just not that expensive.  Working with good tools designed for flytying is going to make the whole experience more enjoyable.  Sure you can save a few bucks over the long run is it really worth it. On the other hand, several people advocated the use of bobbins with ceramic inserts.  Has anyone really come up with a good estimate about how long it takes to wear a groove in the tube of a bobbin with a metal sleave?  For the cost of a bobbin with a ceramic sleeve I can buy a couple of cheaper steel sleeve bobbins.  So it wears out after five years or so.  I would have save a lot of time over those years because I didn’t have to thread a bobbin (I use the thread sucking technique too and it works well for me) everry time I changed threads.

This is a very valid point.  I think the choice of tools follows with the depth of one’s tying.  Do you tie 100 flys in a sitting or just 3 or 4?  Do you tie for yourself only, just for friends to give away, or hundreds to sell to others?   I find that with the limited amount of tying I do — just for myself and a few friends — I can get by with the cheaper steel bobbin.  I have yet to wear a groove in one that I bought for 25 cents on clearance.  Hackle plyers are cheap.  Why spend hours grinding one smooth?  Or for that matter…. Why spend $125 or more on a vise?  If I made a business out of tying flys, however, my attitude would change drastically.  I would then want the best tools money can buy.   I enjoy hearing about the better tools and I have tried them out from time to time, but I tend to weigh their price with their advantages over my rather limited private use.   I feel the same way about rods and reels.   Bob

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Try Test clips from Radio shack, they are a lot cheaper than those from the fly shop.  Also,  Wax Toilet gaskets make about the tackiest dubbing wax you’ve ever seen.             Tom Loveday   Keizer, OR                I’d Rather Be Fishing

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– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Try Test clips from Radio shack, they are a lot cheaper than those from the fly shop.  Also,  Wax Toilet gaskets make about the tackiest dubbing Arrrrrrg!  THE WAX TOILET GASKET.    What a great idea.  I thought this thread was dead.  We  were just ready to put together kits and start tying.  We would have come up short.  But saved by the toilet gasket.    What can we use to store all this great equipment?  Maybe we should go to a pot party and buy some Tupper ware.   Nah!  We are doing such a fine job.  Throw the plastic out.

For that matter, while you’re shopping at the hardware store for toilet items, pick up some lead wool.  It’s cheap and it makes great lead weight for flies. Jamus – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text –   I’m a river keeper, too!      .

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:  What is the Thread Sucking technique for preparing a bobin? Aaron,  He’s refering to the practice of allowing some slack in your tying thread, placing the tip of the thread into the end of the barrel of your bobbin, and giving a sharp intake of air (i.e. "Sucking") to the other end of the barrel of the bobbin.  This pulls the thread through the barrel unless there is too much wax buildup to allow the thread in or you’re like me and insist on getting that slack you allowed wrapped around various parts of your anatomy and gumming up the works! Charley (been tying for my friends for 22 years!)

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Working with good tools designed for flytying is going to make the whole experience more enjoyable.  Sure you can save a few bucks over the long run is it really worth it.

I don’t use tools specifically manufactured for fly tying to save money.  I do it   for the same reason why I don’t watch drag racing.  Most drag racing, and other   "sports",  have come down to a competition of machines and equipment as opposed to   man.  I enjoy tying flies with as little manufactured tools as possible because it   becomes a question of what is making the fly that catches the fish, a skilled   creative person or equipment.  I still catch plenty of fish. —

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This is an old one, but many people use electronic test lead clips as hackle pliers.  They come in a variety of sizes and can be bought at places like Radio Shack. I’ve also heard of using the (hemostat or tubing?) clamps from a medical supply store for hackle pliers.  File the teeth off of the clamping surfaces.  (I’m not in the medical profession, so I probably have the exact type of clamp wrong.)  

I think the proper medical term for those kinds of clamps is "roach clip" I think there is a point where using home grown flytying tools vs. store bought tools is more trouble than it’s worth.  Hackle pliers are just not that expensive.  Working with good tools designed for flytying is going to make the whole experience more enjoyable.  Sure you can save a few bucks over the long run is it really worth it. On the other hand, several people advocated the use of bobbins with ceramic inserts.  Has anyone really come up with a good estimate about how long it takes to wear a groove in the tube of a bobbin with a metal sleave?  For the cost of a bobbin with a ceramic sleeve I can buy a couple of cheaper steel sleeve bobbins.  So it wears out after five years or so.  I would have save a lot of time over those years because I didn’t have to thread a bobbin (I use the thread sucking technique too and it works well for me) everry time I changed threads. — John Fereira "Guru of Miscellany" Pleasanton, CA "Ask me about my vow of silence."

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And here I thought I was one of the only ones to show up at the local welding shop with a set of new (slightly modified) Vise-Grips and a length of steel rod, asking for them to be welded together. It’s just about the only way to handle big saltwater hooks! JL 8-Wt Editor

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And here I thought I was one of the only ones to show up at the local welding shop with a set of new (slightly modified) Vise-Grips and a length of steel rod, asking for them to be welded together. It’s just about the only way to handle big saltwater hooks!

An HMH vise with a super magnum jaw will handle the largest hooks. Mark Miller

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On the other hand, several people advocated the use of bobbins with ceramic inserts.  Has anyone really come up with a good estimate about how long it takes to wear a groove in the tube of a bobbin with a metal sleave?

For those of us who tie large bass bugs and use Kevlar thread, you can tear up a steel tube in short order (less than a season). The ceramic tubes hold up much better when Kevlar is you spinning thread of choice. JL 8-Wt Editor

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This is an old one, but many people use electronic test lead clips as hackle pliers.  They come in a variety of sizes and can be bought at places like Radio Shack. I’ve also heard of using the (hemostat or tubing?) clamps from a medical supply store for hackle pliers.  File the teeth off of the clamping surfaces.  (I’m not in the medical profession, so I probably have the exact type of clamp wrong.)  I don’t know, however, if this alternative is cheaper than the ones from fly tying supply stores. Dave

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Couldn’t agree more about exercising good home-grown common sense inventivenes to accomplish just about everything promised by the gadget-floggers.

Very true.  And, although this observation drifts slightly away from the subject of home-made tying tools, the very best tools a fly tier has are his or her hands.  I try to rely on mechanical tools as little as possible, tying as much as possible with the fingers.  This saves time otherwise lost in locating, picking up and putting down the tool each time a fly is tied. Laying out your tools and materials in advance, and then tying with less fiddling with unnecessary tools, allows you to swiftly and smoothly tie a dozen flies of the same pattern, and they’ll be tighter, better flies. Woods Hole, MA   USA

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My father-in-law has made me several hair stackers out of copper and brass pipe scraps and end fittings, using sizes which just fit inside the next.  I then glued rubber on the bottom so they don’t rattle when tapped to stack the hair.  He also made me a vise, but nothing can substitute for my HMH. A bic pen with the guts removed is possibly the most useful tool for pushing back piles of spun deer hair, and also half hitching. You can often thread your bobbin by starting the thread and then sucking it through, that is if the wax is not built up too bad. The ultimate in homemade tools, the mouth!

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A spent shotgun shell can be used as a hair stacker. I made a "bobbin hanger" (not sure if there is an official name) out of a wire coat hanger.  I have seen fancier ones made from a piece of rod soldered to a small metal tube that slips over the upright rod of a vice.  Before wrapping hackle, you half-hitch the thread, then extend the thread out off of the eye end of the hook and over the bobbin hanger.  The thread is now out of the way for winding the hackle. Dave

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The front end of a ballpoint pen casing makes a find half-hitch tool. Different pens yield different sizes of hole in the tool.  (Is there anyone who doesn’t Who wants to add more?

I have not seen it lately, perhaps to a lack of looking around, but back in the fifties I use to see people using vise grips for fly tying vises.  It worked great, depending on the fly, at times you lay the VG on it side, adjust the jaw closure to be proper for you size hook and have at it.  I think it would probably work for any fly if you build a modest little stand out of wood and hold the vise up off of the table or what ever.  When we used to tye the flys out on the boat, we just stuck the jaw part over the edge of a table.   I just remembered a local tyer in Annapolis, Md also used a vise grip.  He did not cotton to a lot of foolishness,  but his flys sure worked. George,

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Couldn’t agree more about exercising good home-grown common sense inventivenes to accomplish just about everything promised by the gadget-floggers. But Dave, I think you’re a little late. Look in this year’s catalogs and you’ll see there’s everything from fly steam-cleaners to special brushes to re-align plume barbs. (sigh!) The gadgeteers have alread won. Still, we don’t have to buy, do we? If you can get your hands on some back issues of American Fly Tyer and Angler, there’s a regular series on the sort of thing you’re talking about.  Have fun. — David A. Calderisi

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I would like to start a new thread on fly tying tools and paraphernalia, specifically, home-brew tools or modifications to store-bought ones.  I am afraid of this hobby going the way of many others, where the manufacturers (and peer pressure) convince everyone that they need to buy things that are easily made at home.  I offer a few here to get things going: A potter’s needle tool is a cheap alternative to a dubbing needle. You can make a dubbing needle from a sewing needle and a piece of wooden dowel rod.  Glue the needle into a hole drilled in the end of the dowel.  If you break the needle across the eye first, the two jagged ends can be jammed into the bottom of the hole for better holding power.  (Be careful and protect your eyes when cutting/breaking the needle.) Dental floss threaders (available at drug stores) can be used as bobbin threaders. You can make a bobbin threader out of piano wire.  Bend a piece of wire in half, drill a hole in the end of a wooden dowel rod, and epoxy the two ends of the wire into the hole. I suspect you can also make a dubbing fur winding tool in a similar fashion. Nail polish works as head cement.  I’ve had Sally Hansen’s "Hard As Nails with Nylon" in nude (i.e., clear) highly recommended.  Pull out the bristles from the brush and replace with a (broken off) sewing needle, instead.  The needle applicator will allow you to apply a drop at a time without needing to grab your dubbing needle or a toothpick to do it.  (I’ve seen other people use this trick, but haven’t done it yet myself.  I am not sure if you need to epoxy the needle in place or if it will stick there on its own.) The front end of a ballpoint pen casing makes a find half-hitch tool. Different pens yield different sizes of hole in the tool.  (Is there anyone who doesn’t know this one already?) Who wants to add more? Dave

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