Question:

I am a commercial  bush pilot living in Canada, I fly floats in the summer and wheel/skis in the winter.  I  do all of my fueling, cleaning, loading, basically im a one man show.   I love the float season, i love flying into little lakes, beaching on a island, dumping my passengers off and then swimming or fishing for a while if I have time before my next flight.   My problem is this;  I know that if I want to make any money I will probibaly have to move into the multi ifr stuff in the next couple of years before i get too old (im 26).  And the problem with that is I have done the ifr ground school twice (3-day cram fest in Vancouver for $200) and have not completed it either time.  I am bored shitless and cant concentrate!  I just cant get into it and I’m not sure why?  For you comm pilots out there flying ifr all the time; does it suck?  are you bored most of the time?  I go up to the cockpit on air canada A320 sometimes and visit the pilots and they dont seem to have much to do….or see. Any float drivers turned ifr drivers out there who can give me some encouragement?   Are there any fun ifr jobs where i dont have to dawn a shirt with those prissy gold bars?  Am I doomed to choose between a job I hate for the money or a job I love and poverty? Help, jon

Response:

 …And the problem with that is I have done the ifr ground school twice (3-day cram fest in Vancouver for $200) and have not completed it either time.  I am bored shitless and cant concentrate!  I just cant get into it and I’m not sure why?

Skip the book stuff for now and try IFR flight training for a while-that’s where the challenge is. If it still bores you, go back to what you love. If you make good money doing something you hate, how well off are you, really? Dan N9387D at BFM

Response:

John.  I have a private homebuilt floatplane and suffer with a similar malady. In my case it’s eliminating one rat from the urban rat race and going north to make a meagre living by flying.  I encountered the following, which while not right for me, might help you out.  About a year ago, the ontario government was looking for conservation officers to fly small aircraft in northern ontario enforcing hunting and fishing regs, and doing all those other things that conservation officers are supposed to do.  Might be worth checking out.  IIRC, they were flying Maules. Mike – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I am a commercial  bush pilot living in Canada, I fly floats in the summer and wheel/skis in the winter.  I  do all of my fueling, cleaning, loading, basically im a one man show.   I love the float season, i love flying into little lakes, beaching on a island, dumping my passengers off and then swimming or fishing for a while if I have time before my next flight.   My problem is this;  I know that if I want to make any money I will probibaly have to move into the multi ifr stuff in the next couple of years before i get too old (im 26).  And the problem with that is I have done the ifr ground school twice (3-day cram fest in Vancouver for $200) and have not completed it either time.  I am bored shitless and cant concentrate!  I just cant get into it and I’m not sure why?  For you comm pilots out there flying ifr all the time; does it suck?  are you bored most of the time?  I go up to the cockpit on air canada A320 sometimes and visit the pilots and they dont seem to have much to do….or see. Any float drivers turned ifr drivers out there who can give me some encouragement?   Are there any fun ifr jobs where i dont have to dawn a shirt with those prissy gold bars?  Am I doomed to choose between a job I hate for the money or a job I love and poverty? Help, jon

Response:

OK I’ll bite, even though floats are still on my "someday" list… I love it all.  I fly all-weather all-night air ambulance operations (IFR, of course), freight, and passengers.  That’s fun.  So is taking my Taylorcraft and hand-propping it, stopping at grass strips, and paying cash for gas (usually whatever cash made it through the laundry in my jeans pocket covers my fuel bill). I also really enjoy giving passengers a super-smooth ride in challenging weather (or at least trying).  I did a life flight the other day with a very ill little girl and her mother and really felt like I was helping them by making the flight as comfortable as possible, even though the destination was barely above minimums.   And, I think I fly each operation better from the experience in the other.  They taylorcraft makes me acutely aware of aircraft limitations (no lights, no radios) and the twins make me aware of the aircraft’s possibilities.  I like both! You’ll need to pursue your IR in order to get full satisfaction.  I know the Canadian system is different from ours but put your head down and get your exams done, then enjoy the flying! Jim Wolper ATP/PhD/CFII

Response:

For you comm pilots out there flying ifr all the time; does it suck? are you bored most of the time?  I go up to the cockpit on air canada A320 sometimes and visit the pilots and they dont seem to have much to do….or see.

No, I’m not bored.  Terror tends to concentrate the mind.  :-)   Not much to see, except the instruments, but you have to watch them VERY closely.  Just because there isn’t much movement doesn’t mean nothing is happening.  Try some flying under the hood & see if you don’t enjoy it.   Admittedly, the ground school isn’t that exciting, but I do enjoy the flying.  If you don’t enjoy precision flying, it won’t be as much fun, but I enjoy the challenge.  A night ILS to minimums makes it seem better.

Response:

Question:

Anyone using a fly line with sinking tip for nymphs or streamer fishing? If so, do you use weighted nymph? How long for the leader/tippet? In what circumstances should such lines be used? I have tested scientific angler class 3 and class 5 in a park near my home. Class 3 was hard to cast. Class 5 was very hard to cast. Comments and recommendation anyone?

I agree with the gentleman previous toi this thread. When you cast heavy line of any kind (above 7) the idea is to false cast NEVER, well maybe once if you have to. On the Roannoke in NC casting for those monster sex crazed stripers, I cast a seven wt with a fast sinker to get it down in the seams that would whip a weighted fly all over. The technique is to find  a pocket cast to the side, draw the line to the suface with a slow backcast, then just before the fly reaches the suface, load the rod by the surface tension of the water. even with this powerful back cast-not by the speed of it, but by loading the rod, you get the line in the air. Make your foreward cast count-and place your fly. If you back cast here, your line will drop,it s just too heavy. If you muff the cast, Start from the begining or suffer frustration. Good luck and tight lines! Thanks to Lefty for this tip, he deserves the credit. Steve

Response:

Leader length of 3 or 4 feet work well for me. Weight the nymph as you see appropriate. Most cases an unweighted nymph is best. Some flies seem to benefit from weight of some sort. Casting sink tips requires a more carefull, slower stroke, don’t hold too much line in the air and keep false casting to a minimum. Ralph H – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Anyone using a fly line with sinking tip for nymphs or streamer fishing? If so, do you use weighted nymph? How long for the leader/tippet? In what circumstances should such lines be used? I have tested scientific angler class 3 and class 5 in a park near my home. Class 3 was hard to cast. Class 5 was very hard to cast. Comments and recommendation anyone?

Response:

Jean, Try the AirFlo Fast Sink or Intermediate Sink leaders.  They cast extremely well and the Fast Sink really takes the fly down.  I have been using one this week to cast small Clousers to shad in the Rappahannock and it is working beautifully.  I use a heavier, stiffer (regular monofilament) tippet and keep it to under 3 feet.  The AirFlo leader comes in a 10 foot length for Fast Sink.  If they have the 5 foot model out now it might be a good bet depending on where and what you are fishing.  Another handy thing is they handshake to a line loop and a surgeon’s knot on one end of the tippet. Makes swapping between floating and sinking a matter of seconds and changing tippets the same. Wayne To fish is human…to release divine. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Anyone using a fly line with sinking tip for nymphs or streamer fishing? If so, do you use weighted nymph? How long for the leader/tippet? In what circumstances should such lines be used? I have tested scientific angler class 3 and class 5 in a park near my home. Class 3 was hard to cast. Class 5 was very hard to cast. Comments and recommendation anyone?

Response:

Anyone using a fly line with sinking tip for nymphs or streamer fishing? If so, do you use weighted nymph? How long for the leader/tippet? In what circumstances should such lines be used? I have tested scientific angler class 3 and class 5 in a park near my home. Class 3 was hard to cast. Class 5 was very hard to cast. Comments and recommendation anyone?

Response:

Question:

I am looking for anyone who may have some tips to share for fly fishing in cairns australia.  I am planning to go for two weeks at the end of october to through the middle of november.  Any information on charters, areas, tackle and lodging would be very helpful.

Peter Haynes is part of the Australia’s Premier Fly fishing Guides group, and would be the best guy for that area. His phone Number is 61 7 4033 2398, or if E-Mail is better, make contact through Peter Hayes Guided Fishing, via Neil Grose Tasmania Australia

Response:

I am looking for anyone who may have some tips to share for fly fishing in cairns australia.  I am planning to go for two weeks at the end of october to through the middle of november.  Any information on charters, areas, tackle and lodging would be very helpful.                 Fly-guy

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Response:

Question:

Is there any spey rod manufacturer? Most manufacturer call them two handed rods, but they don’t respond to true speycasting, they are too stiff. Are there any soft action two handed rods out there? Does ST.CRIOX make a spey or two handed rod? Remove the * in the e-mail address, this is for SPAM.

Response:

  Is there any spey rod manufacturer? Most manufacturer call them two   handed rods, but they don’t respond to true speycasting, they are too   stiff.

How do you know this?  Have you tried any of these rods to which you refer.  I fish with a friend of mine who uses a sage 1015-3 (a very stiff rod) and he can spey cast like mad – and he can throw sink tips on the end of a double taper with ease.  I think it is a myth to say that you can’t spey cast with a stiffer rod – it’s just not how they used to do it on the river spey because they didn’t have materials to make stiff rods.  Are there any soft action two handed rods out   there? Does ST.CRIOX make a spey or two handed rod?

Yes.  Try the Sage 9140-4.  It is a soft rod, and the rod that I happen to use (and love).  St. Croix makes a pretty nice rod though it seems quite heavy to me – it is reasonably priced though. From your questions, it sounds like you need to get down to a decent shop and put your hands on some rods.  All the talk in the world on this group isn’t going to help. Once again: GO to a decent shop and try some out.  If you live in the Seattle, WA area, I can recommend some places. -tgades — Tony Gades. Seattle, WA.  USA http://weber.u.washington.edu/~tgades http://weber.u.washington.edu/~tgades/Fishing/fish_page.html NOTICE: DO NOT ADD MY NAME TO _ANY_ MAILING LISTS.  

Response:

Is there any spey rod manufacturer? Most manufacturer call them two handed rods, but they don’t respond to true speycasting, they are too stiff. Are there any soft action two handed rods out there? Does ST.CRIOX make a spey or two handed rod? Remove the * in the e-mail address, this is for SPAM.

try Winston Rods at www.winstonrods.com also Hardy and Bruce and Walker, two English makers have a reputation for making so called true spey rods but you might have a problem sourcing those rods to try. Hardy rods were once popular here in Canada but are now hard to come by as are B&W’s. Some Sage rods are of that type but I don’t know the specifics Ralph H note spurious hyperbole, insults and ‘personal attacks’ made by the author are meant to honour "the Soul of Cicero" and are not intended as personal slights. Please don’t take offense as none is intended. remove "(take_this_out)" for email reply.

Response:

  Is there any spey rod manufacturer? Most manufacturer call them two   handed rods, but they don’t respond to true speycasting, they are too   stiff. How do you know this?  Have you tried any of these rods to which you refer.  I fish with a friend of mine who uses a sage 1015-3 (a very stiff rod) and he can spey cast like mad – and he can throw sink tips on the end of a double taper with ease.  I think it is a myth to say that you can’t spey cast with a stiffer rod – it’s just not how they used to do it on the river spey because they didn’t have materials to make stiff rods.

since I’ve been interested in Speycasting I’ve heard that there are 2 kinds of double handed rods –  stiff rods for overhead casting and speyrods. I think Mike Maxwell of Vancouver BC and author of "The Art and Science of Speyfishing" coined the term ‘true speyrod’ – to describe his own line of rods I believe.  Other ‘experts’ such as Ehor Boyanowski and the late Roger Turner have said and written much the same thing According to Maxwell ‘true speyrods’ display a compound flex when speycasting (which is something like but not the same as roll casting) like a stylized S but with a big curve at the butt and a small curve at the tip. According to Maxwell stiff rods can’t do this and speycasts can only be ‘approximated’. Turner and Boyanowski have said much the same thing – but as they like Mr Shoalseeker and myself are Vancouver area boys like Maxwell could be we’ve just all been exposed to the same dogma – anyone else have any experience with this particularly in Great Britain and Scandanavia? From your questions, it sounds like you need to get down to a decent shop and put your hands on some rods.  All the talk in the world on this group isn’t going to help.

good advice. Ralph H note spurious hyperbole, insults and ‘personal attacks’ made by the author are meant to honour "the Soul of Cicero" and are not intended as personal slights. Please don’t take offense as none is intended. remove "(take_this_out)" for email reply.

Response:

This is from an article in "Fisherman’s Handbook" from 1977 which seems relevant to this discussion. Carbon fibre rods were just available when this was written. "Most salmon fly rods today have an action which may be felt through from the heavy tip to the butt. A tip with this fairly rigid action is required because of the need to "mend" the line or straighten it out. This need arises when the strength of the current varies at different points across the stream and the line is pulled into a bow shape as it is carried downstream. this in turn carries the fly back across the flow at an unnatural angle, making it unacceptable to the salmon. The fisherman must then roll the line to mend it as the bow not only presents the fly unfavourably but also lessens the effectiveness of a strike should there be, by any odd chance, a take. A heavy tipped rod enables a weighty length of double tapered line to be lifted off the water and mended with reasonable ease." The article also points out that before carbon fibre, built cane with spliced joints was the favoured choice as it resisted the twisting force better exerted by Spey casting. — Regards Peter (Remove "nospam"to email)

<snip  : :According to Maxwell stiff rods can’t do this and speycasts can only be :’approximated’. Turner and Boyanowski have said much the same thing – :but as they like Mr Shoalseeker and myself are Vancouver area boys like :Maxwell could be we’ve just all been exposed to the same dogma – : :anyone else have any experience with this particularly in Great Britain :and Scandanavia?

Response:

A good spey caster can easily adjust the speed of the casting stroke and use any rod to their advantage.  This distinction between "over head rods" and "true spey rods" is also not particularly useful. In addition to casting characteristics, one should consider what kind of fishing he/she is going to do with a rod. I fish for steelhead in medium to big rivers, and I like to fish lazily. I hate to repeat shooting and striping line. I just roll/Spey cast long line (to me, at least, 70 feet or so) and swing the fly. Step down and repeat the process. It is so easy and efficient. (Effective? I am not sure because I hook steelhead every 30 hours or so.) For this kind of fishing, a slow rod gives me a peaceful feeling. I can enjoy more the surrounding as well as fishing.

- this pretty much agrees with what Maxwell says about stiff overhead rods vs slow rods; they are easier to spey cast and less tiresome to use through the day…. Ralph H note spurious hyperbole, insults and ‘personal attacks’ made by the author are meant to honour "the Soul of Cicero" and are not intended as personal slights. Please don’t take offense as none is intended. remove "(take_this_out)" for email reply.

Response:

Buy a spey rod from the home of spey casting (Scotland). Esthectically gorgeous, designed and built by reknowned cane rod builder David Norwich. David Norwich Icon Composites Hillside Works, Fountainhall, Nr. Galashiels,  TD1 2SU, Scotland from the USA dial 011 441  578 760 310 – Ken

Is there any spey rod manufacturer? Most manufacturer call them two handed

rods, but they don’t – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -respond to true speycasting, they are too stiff. Are there any soft action two handed rods out there? Does ST.CRIOX make a spey or two handed rod? Remove the * in the e-mail address, this is for SPAM.

Response:

A good spey caster can easily adjust the speed of the casting stroke and use any rod to their advantage.  This distinction between "over head rods" and "true spey rods" is also not particularly useful.  What IS useful is going to a decent shop where you can try (with the guidance of a knowledgable speycaster) several rods which span the range of actions.

I totally agree. If Spey casting is redirected roll casting, as I understand, it can be performed equally well with either fast "overhead/European-style" rods or slow "traditional Spey" rods. You just have to adjust your tempo of casting to the characteristics of a particular rods. I have used a G. Loomis’ very stiff and jerky IMX 8/9 weight 15 footer and a Winston’s soft and smooth 10 weight 15 footer. I prefer the Winston because it is just a joy to roll/Spey cast with it. I would say it is more forgiving. However, I could do with the Loomis everything I can do with the Winston. Actually, I could do at least two thing better with the Loomis than with the Winston. The Loomis could lift more line more easily than the Winston. And it is fun to overhead cast with the Loomis. I could cast further with the Loomis, too. In addition to casting characteristics, one should consider what kind of fishing he/she is going to do with a rod. I fish for steelhead in medium to big rivers, and I like to fish lazily. I hate to repeat shooting and striping line. I just roll/Spey cast long line (to me, at least, 70 feet or so) and swing the fly. Step down and repeat the process. It is so easy and efficient. (Effective? I am not sure because I hook steelhead every 30 hours or so.) For this kind of fishing, a slow rod gives me a peaceful feeling. I can enjoy more the surrounding as well as fishing. — Shinji Unno                     Karaoke Party in Seattle, WA, USA? Also a steelhead fly fisher               http://www.sbkaraoke.com

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text –     Is there any spey rod manufacturer? Most manufacturer call them two     handed rods, but they don’t respond to true speycasting, they are too     stiff.   How do you know this?  Have you tried any of these rods to which you   refer.  I fish with a friend of mine who uses a sage 1015-3 (a very stiff   rod) and he can spey cast like mad – and he can throw sink tips   on the end of a double taper with ease.  I think it is a myth to say   that you can’t spey cast with a stiffer rod – it’s just not how they   used to do it on the river spey because they didn’t have materials to   make stiff rods.   since I’ve been interested in Speycasting I’ve heard that there are   2 kinds of double handed rods –  stiff rods for overhead casting and   speyrods. I think Mike Maxwell of Vancouver BC and author of "The Art and   Science of Speyfishing" coined the term ‘true speyrod’ – to describe   his own line of rods I believe.  

I’m quite familiar with the dogma, but I’ll stick by my statements. Note however, that I own a sage 9140-4 – the softest spey rod they make.  Partly out of luck, and partly I prefer the slower action.  As I say, my fishing buddy uses a 9150-3 – a very stiff stick – and casts a beautiful and tremendous line.  I don’t know what the hell it means to "only approximate a true spey cast" – nor can I possibly understand how such a notion is useful (especially to a beginner trying to find a new rod). A good spey caster can easily adjust the speed of the casting stroke and use any rod to their advantage.  This distinction between "over head rods" and "true spey rods" is also not particularly useful.  What IS useful is going to a decent shop where you can try (with the guidance of a knowledgable speycaster) several rods which span the range of actions.   Seriously, there is no better advice available than that contained in the previous sentence. As I say, I’d be happy to suggest a shop in the Seattle area. -tgades — Tony Gades. Seattle, WA.  USA http://weber.u.washington.edu/~tgades http://weber.u.washington.edu/~tgades/Fishing/fish_page.html NOTICE: DO NOT ADD MY NAME TO _ANY_ MAILING LISTS.  

Response:

Question:

I told my wife that I was going fishing today and to have that god damned dinner done when I get home. TimW <g <seriously ….big <g <no kidding….it’s a joke, see… <I said laundry, not dinner… <g

So are you bringing a couple home for dinner? -burton — L. Burton Hawley           2330 NW Hummingbird Corvallis, OR

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I told my wife that I was going fishing today and to have that god damned dinner done when I get home. TimW <g <seriously ….big <g <no kidding….it’s a joke, see… <I said laundry, not dinner… <g

Response:

I told my wife that I was going fishing today and to have that god damned dinner done when I get home. TimW

Hi Tim Your name is changing a lot and if you treat your wife as mentioned above you could end up ‘minus’ something special. My friend, do what I did, give her the hug she deserves. By the way, my valentine, Gretchen, say hello. Take care and … — Tight Lines Al Beatty BT’s Fly Fishing Products Bozeman, MT http://www.flyshop.com/Expo/Specialty/BTsPdcts/index.html

Response:

Question:

Salt Lake City area?  Any outfitters who might have advice or recommendations?

Try the Spinner Fall flyshop at 801-583-2602.  Matt usually works Saturday but whoever answers the phone should be able to help you.  The Provo is always open but its been a little slow.  Anyway it isn’t winter here yet, so bring your equipment. John Close Not an employee or Spinner Fall but most of my friends are.

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- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I know this is last minute, but I’m going to Salt Lake City for a series of meetings this weekend.  I won’t have much time to fish, The fishing on the Provo river is pretty good right now.  The Provo is 40 miles from Salt Lake and it is freeway most of the way.  The guys at Spinner Fall Fly Shop can help you out if you need a guide. 801-583-2602. Last Friday I fished the afternoon and had a twenty fish go of it. Several were over 20 inches. Bruce

Bruce, Were there Beatis on the water last week??  I’ll be there tomorrow. Paul

Response:

I know this is last minute, but I’m going to Salt Lake City for a series of meetings this weekend.  I won’t have much time to fish, and given the time of year it might not be possible, but does anyone have any suggestions for the Salt Lake City area?  Any outfitters who might have advice or recommendations? Charley Keeton

Response:

I know this is last minute, but I’m going to Salt Lake City for a series of meetings this weekend.  I won’t have much time to fish, and given the time of year it might not be possible, but does anyone have any suggestions for the Salt Lake City area?  Any outfitters who might have advice or recommendations? Charley Keeton

The fishing on the Provo river is pretty good right now.  The Provo is 40 miles from Salt Lake and it is freeway most of the way.  The guys at Spinner Fall Fly Shop can help you out if you need a guide. 801-583-2602. Last Friday I fished the afternoon and had a twenty fish go of it. Several were over 20 inches. Bruce

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Question:

Where, *exactly*, should I add split-shot on a WF-5-F line, or leader.

Response:

I like to put it right next to the fly so that it looks like a head. I, of course, have no idea if that is correct or not.

Response:

Where, *exactly*, should I add split-shot on a WF-5-F line, or leader.

The closer to the fly usually causes less tangling problems. Another method I use is to add a short section of lead core line between my leader butt section and the tipppet section. Some people find that easier to cast. Tight Lines Al Beatty BT’s Fly Fishing Products Bozeman, MT (96 catalog)

Response:

: I like to put it right next to the fly so that it looks like a head. I, of : course, have no idea if that is correct or not. If it catches fish, it _is_ correct! ;-   Anywhere from about 18 inches up on the tippet to down close to the fly will do the trick. Another suggestion would be to use a section of lead core line. What you do is form a loop in each end and overwrap it with thread. Use a loop to loop connection to attach it to the flyline or the tippet end of the leader. There are premade ones out there also. The advantage to this is that it removes that "clunkiness" from the casting that is associated with the use split shot. Jon Porter

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Where, *exactly*, should I add split-shot on a WF-5-F line, or leader. The closer to the fly usually causes less tangling problems. Another method I use is to add a short section of lead core line between my leader butt section and the tipppet section. Some people find that easier to cast. Tight Lines Al Beatty BT’s Fly Fishing Products Bozeman, MT (96 catalog)

Too close to the fly can ruin the swimming action.  Leave at least a couple of feet for most flies. — Richard Nelson Spokane, Wa. "Its not that life is so short, its that death is sooo long."  

Question:

My Michigan Editor, Tom Huggler’s a bit late out of the gate with his material.  He’s written at least six books on fishing Michigan and you’ll find he’s got excellent coverage on trout and steelhead.  Add salmon and you’ve some dandy chances.   We’ve some postings on Michigan now, and will have a lot more by the first of the year. I’m interested in going flyfishing for trout this coming columbus day, (federal holiday).  Being new to this hobby, I’m not very familiar with the streams in michigan yet.  My question is, what streams, if any, exist within 1-2 hours of metro detroit that contain trout.  I know the trout season ends by then for streams not designated extended-season, but any responses I get will be usefull if not now, then next season. — Bill Kempisty                |                    |^^^| U.S. Army Corps of Engineers |   Ohhhh Noooo      |o.o|

** Louis Bignami, Publisher         http://www.finefishing.com Fine Fishing Internet Magazine                "largest fishing mag on the Net" **

Response:

Most of the better waters are about 3hrs north of DEE-troit and beyond. There is Paint Creek, near Rochester. It’s a small stream, and rather difficult to fish because of this, and because it generally runs very clear. There are 18 inch browns in it, but anything over 10" is really quite unusual. This is quite a gem of a stream, especially when you realize just how close (the DEE-troit ‘burbs) it is to the metro–naturally reproducing trout on the outer donut of one of the worlds biggest industrial complexes. The Clinton Valley Chapter of TU has done alot of work on it (I’m a member, but started after most of this work was done, so I take no credit), and the best places to fish are around these sites. Email me your fax # and I’ll send you a map. Better yet, stop by Paint Creek Outfitters in Rochester and buy one for 2 or 3 bucks (the club gets the lions share of the $). Have at it, My Friend…

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I’m interested in going flyfishing for trout this coming columbus day, (federal holiday).  Being new to this hobby, I’m not very familiar with the streams in michigan yet.  My question is, what streams, if any, exist within 1-2 hours of metro detroit that contain trout.  I know the trout season ends by then for streams not designated extended-season, but any responses I get will be usefull if not now, then next season. — Bill Kempisty                |                    |^^^| U.S. Army Corps of Engineers |   Ohhhh Noooo      |o.o|

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Question:

:      I have been looking for some time for a book describing fly tieing :   materials. More specifically, a book that addresses questions like: :   Which fur on an elk is best suited for tieing dry flies like the caddis? :   Is fur from other parts of the animal better for other patterns. :      Alex I’ve never seen THE book you’re looking for.  But, Herters put out a book in the 1930’s that had a diagram of a duck and what feathers were used for what fly parts.  That’s as close as I can get you.  Anyone else want to take a shot? Charley

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     I have been looking for some time for a book describing fly tieing   materials. More specifically, a book that addresses questions like:   Which fur on an elk is best suited for tieing dry flies like the caddis?   Is fur from other parts of the animal better for other patterns.   Other useful information might be answers to questions concerning where   or how these materials are usually obtained; for example:   When I buy a calf tail, did that tail, most likely, come from a veal   ranch? If not where? Is there some type of cattle ranching that involves   the systematic "docking" of calf tails?   Or, try this one, I raise ornamental pheasants. I have had many   fly tiers request golden pheasants that were 3 to 6 years old. When I   ask why, the usual answer is, "cause they’re brighter". This couldn’t   be more wrong. Here’s why.   Say a golden pheasant is hatched in May of year N. That bird will initially   feather out in a pattern of browns and blacks, similar to the adult hen.   We are now in about September of year N. The bird does not molt in year N.   Over the remainder of year N, the bird gradually starts changing color to   match the adult male. By May of year N + 1, the bird has blotches of color   covering much of its body, but still has many of the juvenile feathers.   Towards the end of summer, early fall, of year N + 1, the bird molts and   emerges from the molt in October or November, in dazzling color. The bird   is now about 1 and 1/2 years old. Trust me, this is the brightest this   bird will EVER be and will never exit a molt this bright again. So, if   there is an advantage to an older bird it certainly isn’t brighter colors.   If there is an advantage, what is it.   As far as birds go, this has been my observation for most species. That   is, the first molt into total adult hood is the best for color. By the   way, the age at which this happens varies from one species to the next.   For example, a Himalayan Monol (Impeyan), reaches adulthood at 2 and 1/2   years. The only exception I know to this, is the peacock. I don’t seem to   see much loss in color due to age and the feathers seem to get bigger and   nicer for the first 4 to 5 years at least.   Anyway if such a book exists, I would be interested in hearing about it.   Thanks for your time,      Alex —             Alex Dorchak     Voice : (206) 356-6443     USMAIL: John Fluke Mfg. Co. / P.O. Box 9090 / Everett WA  98206-9090

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:      I have been looking for some time for a book describing fly tieing :   materials. More specifically, a book that addresses questions like:

Eric Leiser, Fly Tying Materials (Crown, 1973) and several more. —  |          Donald Phillipson, 4180 Boundary Rd., Carlsbad         |  |        Springs, Ont., Canada K0A 1K0; tel: (613) 822-0734       |  |  "What I’ve always liked about science is its independence from |  |  authority"–Ontario Science Centre (name on file) 10 July 1981 |

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– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – :      I have been looking for some time for a book describing fly tieing :   materials. More specifically, a book that addresses questions like: :   Which fur on an elk is best suited for tieing dry flies like the caddis? :   Is fur from other parts of the animal better for other patterns. :      Alex I’ve never seen THE book you’re looking for.  But, Herters put out a book in the 1930’s that had a diagram of a duck and what feathers were used for what fly parts.  That’s as close as I can get you.  Anyone else want to take a shot? Charley

Eric Leisure put out a book called "Fly Tying Materials" that covered a heck of a lot about lots of different materials used for tying flies. Seems to me to be the definitive work on the subject. You might see if you can locate/borrow a copy to see if he covers the particular nuances you’re interested in (I read it *many* years ago but can’t remember such details)… /dave <<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<< < Digital Equipment Corp.    Alpha Server Engineering  < <         "Read this and nobody gets hurt ;^)"         < <<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<

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    I have been looking for some time for a book describing fly tieing  materials. More specifically, a book that addresses questions like:  Which fur on an elk is best suited for tieing dry flies like the caddis?  Is fur from other parts of the animal better for other patterns.

I can’t remember the reference but I recall reading an article out of one of the flyfishing magazines that cover different kinds of hair (I don’t think an elk really has "fur").  Amoung other things it described a number of differents kinds of hair (deer, elk, moose, bear, etc) and the boyuancy qualities and even went into the best time of year to take hair from an animal (when it needs a haircut?) and a number of other interesting bits of information.  I’ll see if I can dig the article out somewhere. — John Fereira Isis Distributed Systems  Ithaca, NY

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    I have been looking for some time for a book describing fly tieing  materials. More specifically, a book that addresses questions like:  Which fur on an elk is best suited for tieing dry flies like the caddis?  Is fur from other parts of the animal better for other patterns.

There is a comprehensive book on the subject by Eric Leiser: Fly Tying Materials. There are others but this is the only one I can remember right off the top. Todd L. McCagg – Mfr Rep of Musical Esoteria Modulus-Spector-SWR-Hughes & Kettner-Premier Fernandes-EMG-CB Labs Pocket Rock-It (husband-father-bassist-flyfisher-flytyer-homebrewer)

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rare & unusual materials: a natural history written by paul schmookler & ingrid v. sils order from the complete sportsman p.o. box 104, millis MA 02054

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Does anyone know where I can get a hold of a hatch matcher chart?? Iam just starting out flyfishing and I need all the  help I can get. None of the fly shops in my area carry them. I would appreciate any advice on where to get a hold of one. RON

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: Does anyone know where I can get a hold of a hatch matcher chart?? : Iam just starting out flyfishing and I need all : the  help I can get. None of the fly shops in my area carry them. I would : appreciate any advice on where to get a hold of one. : RON A good book for beginners is Dick Pobst’s guide to insects. It is an Orvis streamside guide.

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PLEASE DO NOT PUMP THE STOMACHS OF THE FISH…  This causes them to adjust their eating habits for several days and can harm the fish permanately.

Yep, leads ‘em down the wayward path to anorexia/bolemia. If you think whirling disease is a problem, let me tell you, once the fish get into a binge and purge cycle, you’ve got a bigger problem.  How you gonna provide psychotherapy to all them fish?  The costs would be astronomical! — -Wayne Trzyna

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Does anyone know where I can get a hold of a hatch matcher chart?? Iam just starting out flyfishing and I need all the  help I can get. None of the fly shops in my area carry them. I would appreciate any advice on where to get a hold of one. RON

 There are a couple of good books out on the market to match the  Hatch with.  Almost any major bookstore can get a copy of the  "Hatch Bible" called MATCHING THE HATCH.  It is a good book but the best  way to match the hatch is by seining the water.  PLEASE DO NOT PUMP THE  STOMACHS OF THE FISH…  This causes them to adjust their eating habits  for several days and can harm the fish permanately.  Since there are so many new anglers out there we need to preserve what we got.

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