Question:

Evolution of the Penn’s Creek Fisherman: 6. sleep, eat, drink, laugh, fish, in no special order….. Remember, it’s evolution, short cuts can be dangerous…….

We like living on the edge.  Danger is our business.  Besides, we ain’t all that sure about all that evolution stuff……and there’s just too damn much to remember!     Wolfgang who sure hopes there ain’t gonna be a quiz.

Response:

We like living on the edge.  Danger is our business.  Besides, we ain’t all that sure about all that evolution stuff……and there’s just too damn much to remember!     Wolfgang who sure hopes there ain’t gonna be a quiz.

Quiz?  I made all of that stuff up…I’m still at Step 1….

Response:

We like living on the edge.  Danger is our business.  Besides, we ain’t all that sure about all that evolution stuff……and there’s just too damn much to remember!     Wolfgang who sure hopes there ain’t gonna be a quiz. Quiz?  I made all of that stuff up…I’m still at Step 1….

Um…..Step 1 sounds a mite strenuous for us geezers.  I believe I’ll stick with step 6. Hey, I know!  While you guys are running up and down the stream for 16 hours I’ll stay behind and guard the beer!  Yeah, that’ll work!       Wolfgang it feels so good to be useful in the golden years.

Response:

Mike,    nice piece……btw, your Marabou Minnows are waiting on my kitchen table.                             Tom p.s. About that "invite a bunch of out-of- towners" step…….

Response:

<g …but, if’n it ain’t a twelve step program, none of my crowd will comply or progress…  i’ll be lookin for you at dawn and dusk or somewhere in mid-upstream hike… but only 16 hours doesn’t leave much time for many niceties, except perhaps your offering me a beer… jeff (in the land of one-step fishing) – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Evolution of the Penn’s Creek Fisherman: 1. Catch as many fish as you possibly can, running up and down the creek 16 hours a day, 7 days a week, sucking down some food after dark, dressing the wounds, drying out the soaked clothes, and drinking as fast as you fish, so you can pass out, and wake up early in the morning, to get out for another 16 hours. 2. Catch as many fish as you can pausing for a few minutes to focus on the big fish at dawn, and dusk. Catching lunch in between the nymph water, and the hatch pools, and stay up later talking about how the f$#% the 20+ incher could snub your squirrelly fly presentation, wake a bit later in the morning. 3. Sleep in, wake up to a drool soaked pillow, eat a good breakfast, do some nymphing in the best holes, catch just as many fish as you did in step one in a few hours, eat lunch, drink beer, drink beer, nymph fish in the water you won’t fish the hatch in, stake out the perfect pool, wait for the amazing sequence events to take place (midges, midge spinners, emerging sulphurs, emerging grey fox, sulphur spinners, emerging sulphurs, march brown spinners, emerging sulphurs, while the caddis are there throughout), pick a fly to concentrate on, and wonder how the f$%# that monster brown could refuse your perfect fly presentation. Drink more than your old body can handle, go to beginning of step three. 4. Wake up early, eat breakfast, take a shower, wait for everyone to go upstream to all of the "best" water, fish the real water, drink beer, eat an early lunch, pass everyone going back for lunch, nymph fish, go back for early dinner, drink beer, wait for everyone to go back to the stream, go fishing on one of the other local streams, fly up over the mountain, take a couple shots, wait for someone from step one to leave the best hole, fish the hatch, throw the spinner over that one huge fish with some half assed cast, hook-it, fight it, breaks you off three feet from ya, drink tequila, take a day off the schedule, go to the beginning of step four. 5. Invite a bunch of out-of towners, teach’em step one, go to step four, somewhere around nymph fishing or dinner (taking care not to skip the beer, and shots). Enjoy everyone flying up and down the stream, throw an attractor fly out there on 2x tippet at dark, sleigh the dragon, 6. sleep, eat, drink, laugh, fish, in no special order….. Remember, it’s evolution, short cuts can be dangerous……. The Finn By the way, step one is the most fun…..

Response:

Mike,    nice piece……btw, your Marabou Minnows are waiting on my kitchen table.                             Tom p.s. About that "invite a bunch of out-of- towners" step…….

Hey, since I was one of those out of towners last year, can I move up? — Frank Reid Reverse email to reply. .

Response:

Hey, I know!  While you guys are running up and down the stream for 16 hours I’ll stay behind and guard the beer!  Yeah, that’ll work!       Wolfgang it feels so good to be useful in the golden years.

A step 7!!!

Response:

p.s. About that "invite a bunch of out-of- towners" step……. Hey, since I was one of those out of towners last year, can I move up? — Frank Reid Reverse email to reply.

You already did, although I had to practically drag you upstream myself…..in the midst of trying to locate some C4 to combat your arsenal (watch out for those underwater trip wires), but "can’t we all just get along?" The Finn

Response:

Hey, I know!  While you guys are running up and down the stream for 16 hours I’ll stay behind and guard the beer!  Yeah, that’ll work!       Wolfgang it feels so good to be useful in the golden years. A step 7!!!

See, that’s what I’m talking about….there’s ALWAYS another step….it’s like trying to keep up with Miller.  :( Wolfgang is it nap time yet?

Response:

"can’t we all just get along?"

Works for me. Wolfgang

Response:

Well, I hope to be more mobile this year.  The doc is thinking about using Botox on my back.  Oh, by the way, got a real wading staff now, and hopefully won’t loose it. — Frank Reid Reverse email to reply.

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Hey, I know!  While you guys are running up and down the stream for 16 hours I’ll stay behind and guard the beer!  Yeah, that’ll work!       Wolfgang it feels so good to be useful in the golden years. A step 7!!! See, that’s what I’m talking about….there’s ALWAYS another step….it’s like trying to keep up with Miller.  :( Wolfgang is it nap time yet?

It’s the last step you want to avoid…. The BIG nap. Willi

Response:

is it nap time yet? It’s the last step you want to avoid…. The BIG nap.

While postponement is allowed, avoidance simply isn’t tolerated in these parts. Wolfgang one MUST observe the social niceties!      :)

Response:

It’s the last step you want to avoid…. The BIG nap. While postponement is allowed, avoidance simply isn’t tolerated in these parts.

You obviously haven’t read the latest in magnetic immortality theory. http://www.alexchiu.com/ — Ken Fortenberry

Response:

It’s the last step you want to avoid…. The BIG nap. While postponement is allowed, avoidance simply isn’t tolerated in these parts. You obviously haven’t read the latest in magnetic immortality theory. http://www.alexchiu.com/

O.K., sure, but what’s it really worth when breast enhancement schemes don’t wor….um…..never mind.     Wolfgang

Response:

Evolution of the Penn’s Creek Fisherman: 1. Catch as many fish as you possibly can, running up and down the creek 16 hours a day, 7 days a week, sucking down some food after dark, dressing the wounds, drying out the soaked clothes, and drinking as fast as you fish, so you can pass out, and wake up early in the morning, to get out for another 16 hours. 2. Catch as many fish as you can pausing for a few minutes to focus on the big fish at dawn, and dusk. Catching lunch in between the nymph water, and the hatch pools, and stay up later talking about how the f$#% the 20+ incher could snub your squirrelly fly presentation, wake a bit later in the morning. 3. Sleep in, wake up to a drool soaked pillow, eat a good breakfast, do some nymphing in the best holes, catch just as many fish as you did in step one in a few hours, eat lunch, drink beer, drink beer, nymph fish in the water you won’t fish the hatch in, stake out the perfect pool, wait for the amazing sequence events to take place (midges, midge spinners, emerging sulphurs, emerging grey fox, sulphur spinners, emerging sulphurs, march brown spinners, emerging sulphurs, while the caddis are there throughout), pick a fly to concentrate on, and wonder how the f$%# that monster brown could refuse your perfect fly presentation. Drink more than your old body can handle, go to beginning of step three. 4. Wake up early, eat breakfast, take a shower, wait for everyone to go upstream to all of the "best" water, fish the real water, drink beer, eat an early lunch, pass everyone going back for lunch, nymph fish, go back for early dinner, drink beer, wait for everyone to go back to the stream, go fishing on one of the other local streams, fly up over the mountain, take a couple shots, wait for someone from step one to leave the best hole, fish the hatch, throw the spinner over that one huge fish with some half assed cast, hook-it, fight it, breaks you off three feet from ya, drink tequila, take a day off the schedule, go to the beginning of step four. 5. Invite a bunch of out-of towners, teach’em step one, go to step four, somewhere around nymph fishing or dinner (taking care not to skip the beer, and shots). Enjoy everyone flying up and down the stream, throw an attractor fly out there on 2x tippet at dark, sleigh the dragon, 6. sleep, eat, drink, laugh, fish, in no special order….. Remember, it’s evolution, short cuts can be dangerous……. The Finn By the way, step one is the most fun…..

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – is it nap time yet? It’s the last step you want to avoid…. The BIG nap. While postponement is allowed, avoidance simply isn’t tolerated in these parts. Avoidance is a commonly used tactic by me. It works well in lots of situations. Ya think I may need to rethink that strategy on this one?

Nah, go for it.  Keep us posted on how it works out. Wolfgang eagerly awaiting the first installment at penn’s.      :)

Response:

<SNIP You obviously haven’t read the latest in magnetic immortality theory. http://www.alexchiu.com/

TL MC

Response:

is it nap time yet? It’s the last step you want to avoid…. The BIG nap. While postponement is allowed, avoidance simply isn’t tolerated in these parts.

Avoidance is a commonly used tactic by me. It works well in lots of situations. Ya think I may need to rethink that strategy on this one? Willi

Response:

Question:

Thanks for the report.  I’ll have a few days in September to make it to Central Oregon and I’m looking forward to that.  Speaking of theft, I’m still looking for my goretex wading jacket in the green waterbag from May. I think I’ll put a tag on my stuff with my email.  Honest flyfisherman will know what to do, and the rest can go to ….

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – The Mid-Willamette Fly Fishers held their annual outing at East Lake (SE of Burns) this weekend. Fly fishing was good for rainbows and browns to the mid teens size wise. Morning and evening seemed to be the best, and there were many types of insects hatching. Despite being there 3 days, I invested all of 1 hour wading the NE corner, casting dries, and landing 2 nice rainbows. Otherwise I went x-country hiking and lounged around taking pictures. The partial bummer this year was the crowds. Evidently Davis Lake, Wickiup and many other traditional summer time lakes in the Cascades are showing severe signs of drought, so speculation is that everyone is rushing to the spring fed East Lake and Paulina Lake, where my guess is the water level is down all of  6" (six inches). The East Lake campgrounds were the fullest I have seen them in 5 years, and the NE beaches in the evening had dozens of motor boats and float tubes beached on them. Which brings me to a warning. I was surfing another forum, and saw a very recent posting from someone who had a raft stolen at one of the Century Lakes Drive (e.g. Lava Lake, Craine Prairie, Davis Lake, a zillion other lakes) campgrounds. When the police officer arrived to take a report, this individual learned that there has been a rash of thefts from many campgrounds. The speculation is that there is a "gang" making early morning (4 am) rounds. Everyone in our club has felt so safe at many of the mostly fly-fishing only lakes that we have been leaving our tubes on the beach rather than haul them back to camp. Thomas Gilg

Response:

has been a rash of thefts from many campgrounds. The speculation is that there is a "gang" making early morning (4 am) rounds. Everyone in our club has felt so safe at

My beloved 78 yr old father had his 9.9 Evinrude stolen off the back of his drift boat while at Cresant Lake last weekend. They cut the lock and hauled it off. They left the gas tank which was on the front porch of the cabin less than 20′ away… I’ll leave the assessment of the relative intelligence of said scumbags to your own imagination. Cos

Response:

The Mid-Willamette Fly Fishers held their annual outing at East Lake (SE of Burns) this weekend. Fly fishing was good for rainbows and browns to the mid teens size wise. Morning and evening seemed to be the best, and there were many types of insects hatching. Despite being there 3 days, I invested all of 1 hour wading the NE corner, casting dries, and landing 2 nice rainbows. Otherwise I went x-country hiking and lounged around taking pictures. The partial bummer this year was the crowds. Evidently Davis Lake, Wickiup and many other traditional summer time lakes in the Cascades are showing severe signs of drought, so speculation is that everyone is rushing to the spring fed East Lake and Paulina Lake, where my guess is the water level is down all of  6" (six inches). The East Lake campgrounds were the fullest I have seen them in 5 years, and the NE beaches in the evening had dozens of motor boats and float tubes beached on them. Which brings me to a warning. I was surfing another forum, and saw a very recent posting from someone who had a raft stolen at one of the Century Lakes Drive (e.g. Lava Lake, Craine Prairie, Davis Lake, a zillion other lakes) campgrounds. When the police officer arrived to take a report, this individual learned that there has been a rash of thefts from many campgrounds. The speculation is that there is a "gang" making early morning (4 am) rounds. Everyone in our club has felt so safe at many of the mostly fly-fishing only lakes that we have been leaving our tubes on the beach rather than haul them back to camp. Thomas Gilg

Response:

Question:

    No, I’m not referring to the excellent book of the same name. I just got this cut and paste in an e-mail from my uncle. There is no indication that the guy was fishing with flies, but I thought the article would be of interest to the group. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -Journal) about the truth on the shark attack here on Pensacola Beach, the truth is coming out!  There is a reason that the "hero" of the attack that wrestled that 7 foot shark to shore is not giving any interviews, and is hard to find.  There is a reason that this 7 foot shark was in 2 feet of water, and there is a reason that the family is "acting funny" about taking money from those that want to help….here it is…..hard truth…Sit down…. THE UNCLE THAT WRESTLED THE SHARK ASHORE WAS FISHING FOR SHARKS, HAD IT ON A LINE AND HAD BEEN FIGHTING IT FOR TWO HOURS PLUS. The unidentified stranger that helped him also helped him fight the fish to shore.  When the shark got into two feet of water, the kids all ran into the water in jubilation and the shark lunged from off the ground and hit Jessie Arbogast twice, took his arm off and bit into his leg.  !!!!!!! The man had CHUM in the water, and heavy tackle built to fish for sharks. His nephew got bit because the entire family went into the water trying to wrestle the fish to land.  There is big money on a shark that size. THIS IS THE TRUTH, THE WHOLE TRUTH, AND NOTHING BUT THE TRUTH The press has suppressed the real truth, because they are afraid that it will effect the contributions for Jessie and the uncle is so filled with guilt, he has tried to commit suicide once already….Now it all makes sense.  NO MAN is going to wrestle a shark that large to shore in two feet of water, that is one powerful animal, and they had cut the cable, and hid the rods by the time the Medic’s got there.  The ranger that shot the shark testified that the shark still had the hook in his mouth and "put up a big fight because his mouth was all bloody and torn up"….(that is why the shark had blood all over it’s mouth in the TV photo’s, it was it’s own blood !!) I am not lessening the horror of the event.  Jessie did get an arm bit off and is going to recover, but I am tired of Pensacola Beach taking it in the shorts because of the "whole truth not being told"….The money, in my opinion would still come in, and the uncle will have to accept that it was a tragic accident and a mistake.

Response:

No, I’m not referring to the excellent book of the same name. I just got this cut and paste in an e-mail from my uncle. There is no indication that the guy was fishing with flies, but I thought the article would be of interest to the group.

Saw this in the Urban Legends web page-they said not true.  Hope not, anyway….

Response:

THE UNCLE THAT WRESTLED THE SHARK ASHORE WAS FISHING FOR SHARKS, HAD IT ON A LINE AND HAD BEEN FIGHTING IT FOR TWO HOURS PLUS.

Not sure about the veracity of that report but at least one network news program did present a brief story about tourists in that area chumming sharks, not necessarily to fish for them but to gawk at them. Mu

Response:

Question:

There’s only one answer here: www.troutflies.com ROFF’s own Harry Mason sets a standard which few (if any) flytying sites can ever meet. Herman Anyone have any good sites that describe tying specific flies? I’ve found several sites with good recipes but need a more "walk through" approach. The location of various materials is pretty hard to determine with some flies (Muddlers are my own specific mystery). Thanks Keith

–         Cheers, Herman         Herman Nijland         Daytime webmaster         Lifetime flyfisher

Response:

Mike Connor "used" to have a very decent flytying site,  but it seems to have moved,  or otherwise become defunct,  as my browsers reliably give me the German version of "not here mate!".  I personally would like to see MC’s site again, and would wholeheartedly recommend  it whenever it should appear again (as being a good flyfishing info. site) :  what’s the score Mike? Hoping to browse again  (most particularly your tying of the S&P!) Mike. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Anyone have any good sites that describe tying specific flies? I’ve found several sites with good recipes but need a more "walk through" approach. The location of various materials is pretty hard to determine with some flies (Muddlers are my own specific mystery). Thanks Keith

Response:

Anyone have any good sites that describe tying specific flies? I’ve found several sites with good recipes but need a more "walk through" approach. The location of various materials is pretty hard to determine with some flies (Muddlers are my own specific mystery). Thanks Keith

Response:

http://www.virtualflybox.com/ http://www.killroys.com/ http://www.jacksonholenet.com/guyturck/ http://tie-1-on.net/ http://www.troutflies.com/new_index/_store_index.htm http://www.flyanglersonline.com/ http://www.btsflyfishing.com/ http://globalflyfisher.com/index.html http://nottingham-flydressers.4t.com/ http://www.umpqua.com/ http://www.magiclink.com/web/wesn/index.html Hope that helps some. Warren

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Anyone have any good sites that describe tying specific flies? I’ve found several sites with good recipes but need a more "walk through" approach. The location of various materials is pretty hard to determine with some flies (Muddlers are my own specific mystery). Thanks Keith

Response:

Keith, My vote goes to           flyanglersonline.com Great step by step tutorials for both a beginners and  intermediate tying "class", plus a "fly of the week". – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – http://www.virtualflybox.com/ http://www.killroys.com/ http://www.jacksonholenet.com/guyturck/ http://tie-1-on.net/ http://www.troutflies.com/new_index/_store_index.htm http://www.flyanglersonline.com/ http://www.btsflyfishing.com/ http://globalflyfisher.com/index.html http://nottingham-flydressers.4t.com/ http://www.umpqua.com/ http://www.magiclink.com/web/wesn/index.html Hope that helps some. Warren Anyone have any good sites that describe tying specific flies? I’ve found several sites with good recipes but need a more "walk through" approach. The location of various materials is pretty hard to determine with some flies (Muddlers are my own specific mystery). Thanks Keith

Response:

Question:

Heading for RMNP area for 1 1/2-2 weeks this summer, probably mid to late July. Will be camping for part of the time maybe in or north of the park and then spending 4 days in Estes Park. Looking for advice on places to fish and places to avoid. Mostly interested in smaller streams or shallow lakes. Will be wading-no float tube-with a 7′9" 3/4 wt. Once the family is safely in the confines of a cabin or lodge I may take a solo overnight hike to a more remote lake/stream. Any advice on places and patterns will be greatly appreciated. Thanks Mark

Response:

Fished there last summer around July.  I had a great time on the Thompson and on the headwaters of the Colorado.   Usually we could fish till around 4pm before the thunder and lightning rainstorms drove us for cover.  The further you wandered away from the road, the better the fishing got. Although most fish ran 7-10", there were a few larger and some we saw, but could not get to rise in the gin-clear water, that probably went 21/2 to 3lbs.  A 3/4 short rod is a good choice.  On the west side of the park, the Colorado runs into an area that is filthy with beaver dams.  A stealthy approach to the dams brought non-stop action on brookies and cutthroats. The Estes Park Angler in Estes Park is a good source for fly fishing information.  The fish were not that picky.  However, a lime trude sizes 14-16, worked best.  We also picked up fish on elkhair caddis, yellow humpies, hoppers, and stimulators. Randall S. Davis

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Heading for RMNP area for 1 1/2-2 weeks this summer, probably mid to late July. Will be camping for part of the time maybe in or north of the park and then spending 4 days in Estes Park. Looking for advice on places to fish and places to avoid. Mostly interested in smaller streams or shallow lakes. Will be wading-no float tube-with a 7′9" 3/4 wt. Once the family is safely in the confines of a cabin or lodge I may take a solo overnight hike to a more remote lake/stream. Any advice on places and patterns will be greatly appreciated. Thanks Mark

Response:

Question:

Does this mean I need new rings or pistons? – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -Unless the motor was rebuilt it has high ring pistons. Johnson/evin used these ring from 1977 thru part of 1980 The problem they often self distruct.

Response:

Well many say don’t fix if not broke. I would run the motor myself, if it did snap a ring down the road i would then decide what to do. I would get the motor out for a run before putting much into it. Make sure carbs are clean fuel pump is good water pump is good.  Check oil in lower unit and change. MAKE SURE YOU DON"T BURN 3 YEAR OLD GAS. Out of all the motors I have torn down old gas/oil seems to be the #1 cause of death. You can tell what pistons you have by pulling the bypass covers.

Response:

!!  200 HP Evenrude Rehab, am I an Idiot? I just picked up a 1978 200 hp evenrude outboard.  Am I an idiot? looks very ugly. I think a family of mice has been living in it for about five years. On the positive side the guy packed it up each year with oil ingested through the carbs. The fly wheel turns freely. Any opinions? I’m looking for some cheep power for my 22 ft fishing boat. What are the chances this motor will work out?  Any suggestions for rehabbing procedure? Rick Pickford

Response:

Hi Rick,   You might take a compression test, check the fuel filter, lower unit and so forth but when all is said and done try it out! Hopefully you might be  happily surprised.  Good Luck      Jake

Response:

Unless the motor was rebuilt it has high ring pistons. Johnson/evin used these ring from 1977 thru part of 1980 The problem they often self distruct.

Response:

!!  200 HP Evenrude Rehab, am I an Idiot? I just picked up a 1978 200 hp evenrude outboard.  Am I an idiot? looks very ugly. I think a family of mice has been living in it for about five years. On the positive side the guy packed it up each year with oil ingested through the carbs. The fly wheel turns freely. Any opinions? I’m looking for some cheep power for my 22 ft fishing boat. What are the chances this motor will work out?  Any suggestions for rehabbing procedure? Rick Pickford

I would run the motor until it blows up.  It could last you ten minutes or ten years; you won’t know until you try it.  There are still plenty of motors of that vintage still purring away. Before sinking a bunch of cash in it, check the compression on each cylinder.  I don’t know what the specs are, but I would imagine somewhare between 85 and 115 pounds per hole.  Remember to have the throttle wide open when you do this.  If the compression varies by more than 10 pounds per hole you probably have some internal problems (stuck rings, burned piston, …). Then it is up to you if you should proceed further or just junk it for parts. Assuming that you want to proceed:b Before you crank it up, do this: 1) Take all the carbs off and clean them/rebuild them.  This might be a job for professional if you don’t know what you are doing. If one of the carbs gets junked up, which it probably did after setting for a gazillion years it may run semi-decent, but run lean in a cylinder and hence fry a hole. Change the lower unit lube. Pull the lower unit, clean and grease the drive shaft spline and replace the water pump. Grease all the other fitings; swivel bracket, tilt-tube, throttle and shifter linkage, …. Pull the starter, remove the bendix, clean, regrease. Pull the prop, clean and grease the spline. Check all the electrical connections on the powerhead for corrosion, being loose and just plain where they are supposed to be. In short, go through the typcial pre-season drill.  Any sort of OMC service shop should be able to do this for you for a reaonable amount of cash. Put extra fresh gas in it.  I would run more than 50:1 for the first tank; go with somewhare between double the oil and the recommended amount just to make sure that everything is lubed up properly. Fire it up and see what she does. Good luck.

Response:

Question:

Try tying the Spider Hitch with four turns.   A friend and I tested this on Izorline’s machines at the last Fred Hall Show and found the knot is strongest when tied with four turns.  More turns actually weaken the knot.   – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I tried to tie SpiderWire to mono.  To avoid the complicated Bimini Twist, I used Spider Hitch (6 loops) on my 50 pounds SpiderWire.  Surprisingly, SpiderWire broke at the knot.  I tested several times and results were the same.  What’s wrong with the SpiderWire/Spider Hitch combination?  Seems to me that the SpiderWire is not as strong as what I thought. John

Response:

Can any of you guys direct me to a place to find this "albright" and "spiderhitch" knots?? I have been trying to collect as many knots for these new braids and polymers as possible. Thanks KLH — Please remove KH from e-mail to respond

Response:

I tried the SpiderWire braid recently and boy can I agree with you. My first cast saw the lure fly away by itself.    The same thing happened about 4 casts later with another new lure.   I also found the line winding up on the drag knob on top of the spool a few times.   I cut about 50 feet of tangled up line and tried again.   Eventually I found I could cast farther but decided against throwing lures with it

It has to be that your knots are pulling thru when the lure flies off the line like that.  Spiderwire is very ‘knot-sensitive’.  I use only UNI-knots and have 100% line strength every time.  Never had a break at the knot, and jig fishing the St. Clair River(12-18mph current with very sharp rocks) the rocks had to practically cut the line in two to weaken it significantly. I definitely don’t recommend casting any braided line with anything but a level wind reel.  I don’t care what advertising hype the marketers use, there’s just too much line twist using a spinning reel with braided. Now the fusion works OK on my Stradic 2000.  Get nice King Salmon with it.  But its casting live bait on a 3-way swivel rig type of casting. Cast and retrieve still gets too much line twist for me.

Response:

Can any of you guys direct me to a place to find this "albright" and "spiderhitch" knots?? I have been trying to collect as many knots for these new braids and polymers as possible. Thanks KLH — Please remove KH from e-mail to respond

Here are several nice sites I’ve found on the Web that are dedicated to knots:         http://www.ozemail.com.au/~fnq/fishing/         http://www.earlham.edu/suber/knotlink.htm  (*excellent list of links*)         http://www.geocities.com/Yosemite/2158/knotix.htm Btw, the last link has the Albright right there on the first page.  And, also, I’ve been fishing with Spiderwire for the last 3 years or so and have found the Albright to be far and away the best knot for attaching the stuff to mono. Good luck, Peter.

Response:

I’ve been fishing with Spiderwire for the last 3 years or so and have found the Albright to be far and away the best knot for attaching the stuff to mono. Good luck, Peter.

Can you tell us what’s the best knot(s) in your mind, Peter? John.

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – For years I have used TriMax, and Trilene 4lb. Test lines for Snapper Blue fishing in CT on Long Island Sound without any problems. This year when I re-spooled at the start of the Season I decided to switch to SpiderWire. I have found out through MANY breaks, tangles, snarls, nots, and birdsnests causing lost fish that this VERY Expensive line is definitely not all that it is advertised to be. The slightest nick, knot, or any tangle will reduce the strength ot this line to "0". I am very disappointed with this product and I will not waste my money on it ever again. I live within walking distance of one of the hottest Stripper fishing areas in CT, and have talked with many other fishermen this season who have tried this line. Without exception their experiences all mirror mine. This line seems VERY prone to tangles, nots, and nicks. It Is a very strong line when in Perfict condition, but after your first couple of casts it is not perfect any more.  Bill I tried the SpiderWire braid recently and boy can I agree with you. My first cast saw the lure fly away by itself.    The same thing happened about 4 casts later with another new lure.   I also found the line winding up on the drag knob on top of the spool a few times.   I cut about 50 feet of tangled up line and tried again.   Eventually I found I could cast farther but decided against throwing lures with it and tried bottom fishing.    This is where the line excells.   I could feel the bottom so clearly that it was as if I was touching it with my finger.    I could feel the slightest taps of the fish.    This caused me to pull the bait out of their mouth so it required patience to allow the bait to be swallowed.    I’m still uncertain about the line. It’s so light that you have to keep an eye on it because it can so easily wrap around a guide or anything sticking out. — Norman Hirsch                      Fax:  212-304-9759 NH&A                               BBS:  212-304-9759,,,,,,,3 577 Isham St. # 2-B                CompuServe:  72115,661 Phone: 212-304-9660                URL: http://www.nha.com

When you respool, try the fused superlines.  I like both fusion and fireline.  Just started using the fireline and I think I will switch to it from fusion.  It seems to have more wear resistance.  I have no problems with knots, in fact when I do get a birds nest on my baitcasters it is much easier to remove than mono. Tim — Tim’s Coastal Georgia Fishing Page http://www.geocities.com/Yosemite/Trails/1000/

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I tried to tie SpiderWire to mono.  To avoid the complicated Bimini Twist, I used Spider Hitch (6 loops) on my 50 pounds SpiderWire.  Surprisingly, SpiderWire broke at the knot.  I tested several times and results were the same.  What’s wrong with the SpiderWire/Spider Hitch combination?  Seems to me that the SpiderWire is not as strong as what I thought. John

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I tried to tie SpiderWire to mono.  To avoid the complicated Bimini Twist, I used Spider Hitch (6 loops) on my 50 pounds SpiderWire.  Surprisingly, SpiderWire broke at the knot.  I tested several times and results were the same.  What’s wrong with the SpiderWire/Spider Hitch combination?  Seems to me that the SpiderWire is not as strong as what I thought. John

What did you test it with, a tow truck?  Either it was a very bad batch or something; I don’t see how you could break the good stuff just by pulling on it.  I can’t hardly hold 30lb. test stuff while I cut it with a knife.  Slips right thru my fingers or would cut the daylights out of my hand.  Try a double UNI knot.  Works for my ‘wire to mono’ connections.  No slip and no weakening.

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For years I have used TriMax, and Trilene 4lb. Test lines for Snapper Blue fishing in CT on Long Island Sound without any problems. This year when I re-spooled at the start of the Season I decided to switch to SpiderWire. I have found out through MANY breaks, tangles, snarls, nots, and birdsnests causing lost fish that this VERY Expensive line is definitely not all that it is advertised to be. The slightest nick, knot, or any tangle will reduce the strength ot this line to "0". I am very disappointed with this product and I will not waste my money on it ever again. I live within walking distance of one of the hottest Stripper fishing areas in CT, and have talked with many other fishermen this season who have tried this line. Without exception their experiences all mirror mine. This line seems VERY prone to tangles, nots, and nicks. It Is a very strong line when in Perfict condition, but after your first couple of casts it is not perfect any more.  Bill

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- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – For years I have used TriMax, and Trilene 4lb. Test lines for Snapper Blue fishing in CT on Long Island Sound without any problems. This year when I re-spooled at the start of the Season I decided to switch to SpiderWire. I have found out through MANY breaks, tangles, snarls, nots, and birdsnests causing lost fish that this VERY Expensive line is definitely not all that it is advertised to be. The slightest nick, knot, or any tangle will reduce the strength ot this line to "0". I am very disappointed with this product and I will not waste my money on it ever again. I live within walking distance of one of the hottest Stripper fishing areas in CT, and have talked with many other fishermen this season who have tried this line. Without exception their experiences all mirror mine. This line seems VERY prone to tangles, nots, and nicks. It Is a very strong line when in Perfict condition, but after your first couple of casts it is not perfect any more.  Bill

Since the line has zero memory (stretch) it will always snap at the given weight tolerance whether the line is new or nicked. With slow-even retrieve it’ll work fine and perform beyond the test tolerance, but it can snap on hookset.  It can also cause you to loose fish that are not ‘hooked’ well.  Slack line with no memory will simply ‘fall’ out of the fish’s mouth.  The knotting, bunching and tangling can be from an uneven retrieve speed (which is natural). The super lines are very unforgiving.                                      Kate — Corners Sports and Tackle                       5303 South 108th Street                         Hales Corners, Wisconsin 53130                   (414)425-2640

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I tried to tie SpiderWire to mono.  To avoid the complicated Bimini Twist, I used Spider Hitch (6 loops) on my 50 pounds SpiderWire.  Surprisingly, SpiderWire broke at the knot.  I tested several times and results were the same.  What’s wrong with the SpiderWire/Spider Hitch combination?  Seems to me that the SpiderWire is not as strong as what I thought. John What did you test it with, a tow truck?

Believe it or not, I simply used my hand to pull and it broke. I tested several time to prove it.  Not that SpiderWire is no good, but the tests showed that the Spider Wire/ Spider Hitch combination is probabily no good.

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– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -For years I have used TriMax, and Trilene 4lb. Test lines for Snapper Blue fishing in CT on Long Island Sound without any problems. This year when I re-spooled at the start of the Season I decided to switch to SpiderWire. I have found out through MANY breaks, tangles, snarls, nots, and birdsnests causing lost fish that this VERY Expensive line is definitely not all that it is advertised to be. The slightest nick, knot, or any tangle will reduce the strength ot this line to "0". I am very disappointed with this product and I will not waste my money on it ever again. I live within walking distance of one of the hottest Stripper fishing areas in CT, and have talked with many other fishermen this season who have tried this line. Without exception their experiences all mirror mine. This line seems VERY prone to tangles, nots, and nicks. It Is a very strong line when in Perfict condition, but after your first couple of casts it is not perfect any more.  Bill

I tried the SpiderWire braid recently and boy can I agree with you. My first cast saw the lure fly away by itself.    The same thing happened about 4 casts later with another new lure.   I also found the line winding up on the drag knob on top of the spool a few times.   I cut about 50 feet of tangled up line and tried again.   Eventually I found I could cast farther but decided against throwing lures with it and tried bottom fishing.    This is where the line excells.   I could feel the bottom so clearly that it was as if I was touching it with my finger.    I could feel the slightest taps of the fish.    This caused me to pull the bait out of their mouth so it required patience to allow the bait to be swallowed.    I’m still uncertain about the line. It’s so light that you have to keep an eye on it because it can so easily wrap around a guide or anything sticking out.   — Norman Hirsch                      Fax:  212-304-9759 NH&A                               BBS:  212-304-9759,,,,,,,3 577 Isham St. # 2-B                CompuServe:  72115,661 Phone: 212-304-9660                URL: http://www.nha.com

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I have been using the Spider-Wire Fusion line for the past two years. I won’t use anything else on my lighter rod and spinning reel combos. I have found that the lighter and longer the pole the better the cast and feel are. I have used the fusion wire for live bait fishing, ripping, and trolling. If you cast alot, tie a heavy sinker on the end of the line and cast it in your backyard a couple dozen times before you go fishing. This will not get rid of the loops but it will loosen them, making it much easier to cast lighter set ups.Make sure you read the pamphlet that comes with the Spider Wire, it will show you how to properly load it on your reel and how to tie knots with it. It does not act or feel like mono and it takes some getting used to. I hated the first spool I bought too. I like the Fusion Wire because it floats and doesn’t wrap itself around submerged objects between the bait and my pole. The sensitivity of the line is far superior to any mono I have ever used, I can  tell what kind of fish is checking out its last supper 80% of the time. I don’t wait until the fish hooks itself to set the hook. I depend on the flexability of my pole rather than the flexability of the line. I have caught more bites this year than anyother year fishing. I have been using the Fusion Wire with Jitter Bugs and Hulla Poppers the past couple of weeks with great results. I use a stiff rod and keep all slack out of the line. Perhaps it is the line or the line made me change my style of fishing but I sure do like the Fusion wire.                                     Mike   WOLVERINE

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- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I tried to tie SpiderWire to mono.  To avoid the complicated Bimini Twist, I used Spider Hitch (6 loops) on my 50 pounds SpiderWire.  Surprisingly, SpiderWire broke at the knot.  I tested several times and results were the same.  What’s wrong with the SpiderWire/Spider Hitch combination?  Seems to me that the SpiderWire is not as strong as what I thought. John What did you test it with, a tow truck? Believe it or not, I simply used my hand to pull and it broke. I tested several time to prove it.  Not that SpiderWire is no good, but the tests showed that the Spider Wire/ Spider Hitch combination is probabily no good.

I am assuming you are using the braided spider wire.  That will cut right through itself or mono.  I have switched to using spider wire fusion or fireline.  I use palomar knots for terminal tackle and uni-knots for line to and some terminal knots and albrights for line to wire.  Of course I am not using 50 pound test, but the results should be the same.  Never had any of them break due to knots and only had some wear problems on slip weights that rub on the line over time, have to retie once or twice a day.  Love the lines! — Tim’s Coastal Georgia Fishing Page http://www.geocities.com/Yosemite/Trails/1000/

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I love the stuff for bottom fishing.  This is where it’s ultra sensetivity shines.  I use palomar knots for terminal tackle and albrights for lint to line or wire.  I haven’t had a problem with the line cutting through itself.  Although, it will dig through the line on the spool and bury itself.  That isn’t much of a problem.  I use 80 lb. test for grouper.  Ocasionally a hook will hang on the bottom.  All I do is tie the line to a cleat and power ahead.  The albright holds, and if you have a strong enough swivel, you can go right back fishing w/o tying a new knot. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I tried to tie SpiderWire to mono.  To avoid the complicated Bimini Twist, I used Spider Hitch (6 loops) on my 50 pounds SpiderWire.  Surprisingly, SpiderWire broke at the knot.  I tested several times and results were the same.  What’s wrong with the SpiderWire/Spider Hitch combination?  Seems to me that the SpiderWire is not as strong as what I thought. John What did you test it with, a tow truck? Believe it or not, I simply used my hand to pull and it broke. I tested several time to prove it.  Not that SpiderWire is no good, but the tests showed that the Spider Wire/ Spider Hitch combination is probabily no good. I am assuming you are using the braided spider wire.  That will cut right through itself or mono.  I have switched to using spider wire fusion or fireline.  I use palomar knots for terminal tackle and uni-knots for line to and some terminal knots and albrights for line to wire.  Of course I am not using 50 pound test, but the results should be the same.  Never had any of them break due to knots and only had some wear problems on slip weights that rub on the line over time, have to retie once or twice a day.  Love the lines! — Tim’s Coastal Georgia Fishing Page http://www.geocities.com/Yosemite/Trails/1000/

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Question:

.. the problem is with the fonts in netscape … it seems to pick up a wierd font when setting it up.. especially the earlier netscapes. go into the fonts list and find the offending font and get rid of it, netscape then picks another … – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – keyboarded:

Question:

Just returned from two days fishing.  A friend and I had planned to hit Mossy Creek and the Jackson River tailwater.  We stopped in at Murray’s fly shop in Edinburg…Harry said Mossy Creek only produced a single trout on a recent outing there.  We asked him about the Jackson, and he said "If I live a thousand years I’d be happy if I never fished the Jackson River again." Harry suggested we go after smallmouth on the North Fork of the Shenandoah, an alternative we eagerly accepted.  We left Murray’s shop (each $75 poorer!) and headed for the North Fork, north of Edinburg, where we found the water crystal-clear and at moderate levels. But we fished it hard for two hours and came up empty handed…not even a trace of fish anywhere. So we decided to head northwest to the North Branch of the Potomac and the Savage Rivers.  When we arrived, we found the water in both rivers high and off-color. We tried camping at the USAC Jennings-Randolph Lake campground, but found the front gate locked at only 9:30pm!  Disgruntled, we drove down to the North Branch whitewater put-in and camped there, in spite of the "No Camping" signs everywhere.  (We had no problems…but this was also Thursday night.)  (Lesson: get to the USAC camground early.) The next morning we were up at 6 and on the water by 7.  We fished the North Branch for about an hour right at the put-in area (above the C&R section) and only caught a single 10" rainbow on a Montana nymph. The water wasn’t muddy…but it wasn’t clear, either. Somewhere in between.  Flow must have been in the 400-600cfs range. Then we drove/hiked down to the C&R section and fished hard for a couple of hours around the concrete railroad abutment on the right bank.  No fish…not a trace of them anywhere.  The water was too high to wade to the left side (though I tried several times and almost got washed away!) We left the North Branch, and drove to the first brisdge on the Savage and fished it for an hour or so.  Also nothing.   Finally, we decided to head for the small streams of Frederick County around Thurmont, where we ended up having an okay few hours of fishing on Owens Creek. (Four 10-11" browns caught.)  Owens was low and clear, and the browns jumped on my size 12 stimulator like gangbusters. All in all, it was fun rambling around for two days…but the fishing was lousy.  I’m wondering now if we would have had better luck at Mossy Creek and the Jackson River tailwater.  Any thoughts? Scott Wilkinson Bethesda, MD

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I don’t quite understand your friend’s reluctance to fish the Jackson River in Virginia.  You did mention the tail- waters and perhaps that is his problem.  Most of the tail waters below Carthright Dam is private property.  That which is public waters is heavily fished.  However, there are many stretches of the Jackson that are beautiful and productive *but* are difficult to reach — requiring a reasonable and not too difficult hike to get there.  Many times the problem is the reluctance of someone to hike in to the better areas. The Jackson is a good fishery.   Mossy Creek is on private land requiring fishing from the shore (no wading).  It is a small spring creek requiring patience familiarity, and some luck.  Given that it can be quite rewarding — browns at 20 inches. Fishing is not all about catching fish, at least for me.  It is about a learning experience, wonderful scenery, and a great *overall* experience.  With patience, fishing the Jackson (in the right place) and Mossy Creek can be very rewarding.

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Question:

Just to ephasizewhat was allreay stated. 1. Mix the FlexCoat EXACTLY 50/50. 2. Make sure resin and hardener are mixed thouroughly.

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I just bought the book The Art of Building a Graphite Fly Rod by L.A. Garcia, and he too stresses an accurate mix and LIGHT stirring (so not to introduce bubbles) for the count of 120.  Every 10 strokes, reverse the direction of your stirring.   A sunny day,      a box of midges,         and a wandering stream…   Man, this MUST be heaven!   <    Steve Kulpa    <<

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<sni In the past I have used Flex Coat to finish off the wraping on guides of the rods that I build.  My question is,  Is there any other coating or adhesive that anyone has used instead of the Flex Coat?  My problems with Flex Coat is that it takes three days for it to dry, and when it is dry the coating doesn’t appear to be very tough.

 <snip This problem was addressed in a series of posts some time back. The solution to your problem is as follows: i) be accurate in mixing 50/50 portions of the resin and hardener and even more important ii) mix thourougly, meaning for at least 2 minutes (or more).

<snip In my boat building, I have run aross instructions for epoxy (2 part) mixtures that recommend that you let the mixture set for 5 minutes, after mixing, before applying, to let the reactions kick off.  They also echo the previous information; be careful about your measurements and mix thoroughly.   I have used flex cote for years and have no problem. I particularly like the flexcote thin mixture.

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In my boat building, I have run aross instructions for epoxy (2 part) mixtures that recommend that you let the mixture set for 5 minutes, after mixing, before applying, to let the reactions kick off.  They also echo the previous information; be careful about your measurements and mix thoroughly.  

I am not sure I’d recommend this.  The pot life of the Flex Coat seems to be fairly short.  The manufacturer recommends spreading out the mixed solution on aluminum foil to increase the life, but I find that even doing this only results in a pot life only slightly longer than the 5 minutes you suggest waiting.   I have never had the slightest problem measuring 50/50 (with syringes) and mixing for about 1-2minutes, then applying immediately (regular or "high build" versions).  Results in a tough, smooth finish that cures in about 24 hours. -tgades

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– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -M. Gades) writes: In my boat building, I have run aross instructions for epoxy (2 part) mixtures that recommend that you let the mixture set for 5 minutes, after mixing, before applying, to let the reactions kick off.  They also echo the previous information; be careful about your measurements and mix thoroughly.   I am not sure I’d recommend this.  The pot life of the Flex Coat seems to be fairly short.  The manufacturer recommends spreading out the mixed solution on aluminum foil to increase the life, but I find that even doing this only results in a pot life only slightly longer than the 5 minutes you suggest waiting.   I have never had the slightest problem measuring 50/50 (with syringes) and mixing for about 1-2minutes, then applying immediately (regular or "high build" versions).  Results in a tough, smooth finish that cures in about 24 hours. -tgades

I have not had any problem with the pot life on flex coat.  I use the flex coat lite, and generally take about 15 to 20 minutes to get the finish on.  Don’t know what the difference is, but there you be…  You can tell when it is going off when the container gets warm.

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I always make sure my working room temp is above 65 degrees.  A desk lamp left on over your rod turner will suffice.  A fish tank thermometer helps too. Ross Wilson

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In the past I have used Flex Coat to finish off the wraping on guides of the rods that I build.  My question is,  Is there any other coating or adhesive that anyone has used instead of the Flex Coat?  My problems with Flex Coat is that it takes three days for it to dry, and when it is dry the coating doesn’t appear to be very tough. By tough I mean it seems to abraid very easy.  If anyone has any suggestions or has used another method to finish off the threads plaese let me know.                             Paul Grabek

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In the past I have used Flex Coat to finish off the wraping on guides of the rods that I build.  My question is,  Is there any other coating or adhesive that anyone has used instead of the Flex Coat?  My problems with Flex Coat is that it takes three days for it to dry, and when it is dry the coating doesn’t appear to be very tough. By tough I mean it seems to abraid very easy.  If anyone has any suggestions or has used another method to finish off the threads plaese let me know.

I am assuming that you are getting the two-part mixture precisely 50/50? If not, use 2 syringes and mix exactly 50/50.   My experience is that after 12-24 hrs, a thick coat of Flex Coat has totally cured for me. good luck,         -tgades — Tony Gades                         You Flex           / University of Washington             your rod,       / GEOPHYSICS                                     /    / fish takes

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I agree with the other response that I saw to your message.  My rods dry hard in 12-24 hours and are not subject to abrasion.  Check your mixture ratios and be sure to mix *very well* (at least 100 stirs). Of course, varnish can be used, as can a couple of other finishes, but they all take multiple coats and are ultimately subject to cracking.   I suggest you stay with the flex coat. Good Luck                                               Dallas, TX                                               Ennis, MT

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In the past I have used Flex Coat to finish off the wraping on guides of the rods that I build.  My question is,  Is there any other coating or adhesive that anyone has used instead of the Flex Coat?  My problems with Flex Coat is that it takes three days for it to dry, and when it is dry the coating doesn’t appear to be very tough. By tough I mean it seems to abraid very easy.  If anyone has any suggestions or has used another method to finish off the threads plaese let me know.                             Paul Grabek

George E. Hoskin The flex-coat is what I have used mostly ("lite" for fly  rods and fresh water rods, "high build" for salt water or larger fresh water rods.  Either should set up in 24 hours.  Make sure you are mixing well (minimum of two minutes) before applying to rod.  If you need any Blanks, hardware or finishes give me a call (1-800-244-7744). I operate a small retail shop here in Maine.   Will be happy to ship you stuff that you need with a visa/mc  number over the phone. I’m always happy to shoot the breeze about flyfishing, tying flies or rod building, etc. Feel free to call 1-800-244-7744 ANYTIME it rings into house and shop both and I usually stau up late.

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Grabek) writes: In the past I have used Flex Coat to finish off the wraping on guides of the rods that I build.  My question is,  Is there any other coating or adhesive that anyone has used instead of the Flex Coat?  My problems with Flex Coat is that it takes three days for it to dry, and when it is dry the coating doesn’t appear to be very tough. By tough I mean it seems to abraid very easy.  If anyone has any suggestions or has used another method to finish off the threads plaese let me know.                            Paul Grabek

This problem was addressed in a series of posts some time back. The solution to your problem is as follows: i) be accurate in mixing 50/50 portions of the resin and hardener and even more important ii) mix thourougly, meaning for at least 2 minutes (or more). I’ve had the same problem in the past, but after following the suggestions of this pub, I’ve had no more problems. Changing to a different brand of epoxy probably won’t help….the principles remain the same. Good luck! Inge Solberg Houston, TX

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Can anyone tell me if there is a rodbuilding newsgroup? Thanks and tight line! Have I yeilded to temptation, but writing this and saying that NO…..I’m

I wish there was a rod building group as well. The satisfaction of making your own rod is great. I recently put a decorative wrap on a couple of my store bought rods and was looking for ideas. It doesn’t catch more fish, just that little extra. If your building a fly rod the saving are significance. The fly rod I built is a 25% saving compared to of the rack. You loose you warranty though, but I think it’s worth having a better rod with no warranty. Than a rod with a warranty and the desire for a better rod for next year.

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<snip I wish there was a rod building group as well. The satisfaction of making your own rod is great. I recently put a decorative wrap on a couple of my store bought rods and was looking for ideas. It doesn’t catch more fish, just that little extra. If your building a fly rod the saving are significance. The fly rod I built is a 25% saving compared to of the rack. You loose you warranty though, but I think it’s worth having a better rod with no warranty. Than a rod with a warranty and the desire for a better rod for next year.

Don’t the manufacturers still back the blank?  Even for a reduced amount of time? Brian

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I wish there was a rod building group as well. The satisfaction of making your own rod is great. I recently put a decorative wrap on a couple of my store bought rods and was looking for ideas. It doesn’t catch more fish, just that little extra. If your building a fly rod the saving are significance. The fly rod I built is a 25% saving compared to of the rack. You loose you warranty though, but I think it’s worth having a better rod with no warranty. Than a rod with a warranty and the desire for a better rod for next year.

Go to http://www.virtualflyshop.com   there is a rod building group there. TL MC

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Try this http://www.rodguild.com/cgi-bin/bbs/bbs.cgi?forum=chat

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I wish there was a rod building group as well. The satisfaction of making your own rod is great. I recently put a decorative wrap on a couple of my store bought rods and was looking for ideas. It doesn’t catch more fish, just that little extra. If your building a fly rod the saving are significance. The fly rod I built is a 25% saving compared to of the rack. You loose you warranty though, but I think it’s worth having a better rod with no warranty. Than a rod with a warranty and the desire for a better rod for next year. Go to http://www.virtualflyshop.com   there is a rod building group there. TL MC

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Can anyone tell me if there is a rodbuilding newsgroup? Thanks and tight line!

Response:

Can anyone tell me if there is a rodbuilding newsgroup? Thanks and tight line!

There are several areas of interest for rod builders. Have a look at http://www.flyanglersonline.com  there is a complete course on ( graphite ) rod-building also try http://www.virtualflyshop.com  lots of info there as well. TL MC

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Can anyone tell me if there is a rodbuilding newsgroup? Thanks and tight line!

Have I yeilded to temptation, but writing this and saying that NO…..I’m

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fishndad, Can anyone tell me if there is a rodbuilding newsgroup? Thanks and tight line!

Not that I know of.  But I’ve seen several posts in this NG on that topic and have a hunch that, if you ask questions on the topic, you’ll get answers here. I’ve built a few rods — with gratifying results right from the first. Here are some misc. opinions, tips, whatever… 1) It ain’t difficult.  The lion’s share of what’s involved is being willing to work deliberately and pay attention to details. 2) You can build  EXCELLENT rods for a fraction of the "store bought" price. 3) If you do nothing else, get the Clemens catalog: Clemens 444 Schantz Road Allentown, PA  18104 The first few pages of the catalog are devoted to the essentials of rod building and the discussion is complete enough to see you through your first project.  As a bonus, it’s a pretty good source of blanks and components. 4) If you’re at all hesitant about building your first rod on a $200 blank, practice on a section of busted rod and/or start with a cheap blank. Wes Peterson LexCraft Data Services

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        Does anyone know the address and phone number of a catalog that sells rod building materials?  Are the guides supposed to go on top of the spine or on the opposite side?  My book says opposite side but most of my rods seem to be on top of the spine. Eric Howe

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In article    Does anyone know the address and phone number of a catalog that sells rod building materials?  Are the guides supposed to go on top of the spine or on the opposite side?  My book says opposite side but most of my rods seem to be on top of the spine. Eric Howe

Fly rods and large ocean rods have the guides opposite the spline. Others on the spline. Two great rod builder catalogs: Dale Clemens – (610) 395-5119   FAX 398-2580   —  Allentown, PA Angler’s Workshop – (360) 225-9445  FAX 225-8641  –  Woodland, WA Don Burns

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       Does anyone know the address and phone number of a catalog that sells rod building materials?  Are the guides supposed to go on top of the spine or on the opposite side?  My book says opposite side but most of my rods seem to be on top of the spine. Eric Howe

For a more thoughtful perspective on this subject, check out the web site for Manhattan Custom Tackle at www.fishdoc.com.  Phil Koenig, the proprietor, suggests a formula based on which way the blank curves, which makes sense.

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For rod building equipement try Cabella’s.  they have lots of stuff and good books too. Brian

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Try: Blue Ridge Rod Company 410-224-4072 FAX 410-224-4072 They deal solely with components for rod building. They do not sell finished rods etc.  They handle most of the name brand blanks (Sage etc.), Pacific Bay guides etc, Strubble, and so forth. You cannot go wrong.  Call or Fax them and they’ll send you a catalogue.

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- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text –   Does anyone know the address and phone number of a catalog that sells rod building materials?  Are the guides supposed to go on top of the spine or on the opposite side?  My book says opposite side but most of my rods seem to be on top of the spine. Eric Howe For a more thoughtful perspective on this subject, check out the web site for Manhattan Custom Tackle at www.fishdoc.com.  Phil Koenig, the proprietor, suggests a formula based on which way the blank curves, which makes sense.

You might also want to check out the new web site of the Angler’s Workshop located in the graphite rod builder’s paradise of Woodland, Washington (home of G.Loomis, Talon and Lamiglass). Their URL is http://www.anglersworkshop.com Dave Weitl Seattle, WA http://www.halcyon.com/dweitl

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Try Custom Tackle Supply     2559 Hwy 41A S.     Shelbyville, TN 37160     (615) 684-6164 They have all the components, ship quickly, and are great guys who are very helpful.   A good book for rodbuilding:    The Custom Graphite Rod    by Skip Morris In it he gives advice on location of guides relative to spine — for fly rods on the side opposite the spine. The advice on Manhattan Tackle is also very good.  They respond quickly also and offer on-line and phone help. I just recently completed my first rod – a 3wt 7′6" and managed to catch some fish with it.  It didn’t fall apart and it looks great. Keep your fly dry, David

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