Fly Fishing Fisherman Wiki » Flyfishing » Quasi-TR: Bones and tarpon in the BVI – Part 1 of 2

Quasi-TR: Bones and tarpon in the BVI – Part 1 of 2

Question:

My wife arranged a ten day trip to the British Virgin Islands to combine some flyfishing with a 25th anniversary tropic island getaway.

i can’t believe you didn’t invite us….. <g –waldo…. your excitement is contagious….

Response:

Outstanding trip reports and great photo’s!! Gary

Response:

Good one, tripper.  A most appreciated report on a cold, wet Sunday in autumnal Melbourne.  I’m particularly please dto hear the SO seems to have had a good time as well … give’s me hope  :-) :-) Steve

Response:

fwiw, I posted a couple of shots on alt.binaries.pictures.fishing, one of a bone being brought to hand, followed by the obligatory hero shot.

Sounds like a great trip. Thanks for the report. TL MC

Response:

[snip] – fishing the flats for bones is just a riot. I might be horribly spoiled by the experience. Only time will tell. I might try fishing the Rapid with a 2 weight to simulate the experience ;-)

Try fishing for stripers with a 2wt :-)

Response:

fwiw, I posted a couple of shots on alt.binaries.pictures.fishing, one of a bone being brought to hand,

Fabulous report. I can sense your excitement. Jealous as Hell! Willi

Response:

fwiw, I posted a couple of shots on alt.binaries.pictures.fishing, one of a /daytripper (Could’ve fooled me – I thought we were dead meat! =8-O

Daytripper, Thanx for the report. Adding it to my deranged fantasy folder today!  Best Wishes. DaveMohnsen Denver

Response:

fwiw, I posted a couple of shots on alt.binaries.pictures.fishing, one of a bone being brought to hand, followed by the obligatory hero shot. My wife arranged a ten day trip to the British Virgin Islands to combine some flyfishing with a 25th anniversary tropic island getaway.  We started at Anegada Reef, as I did half-days fishing the mangroves for bones with Dave "Clinton" Vanterpool, an outstanding guide and local legend. We followed that with a full week on Tortola, mixing tarpon fishing with beaching, sailing, and snorkeling. In short, it was a freakin’ blast of a trip – e-ticket stuff all the way. We came back with tans and smiles – and a couple of wicked line burns and sore knuckles. Anegada Island has roughly 120 people living on it at any given time. Total – including roughly 30 tourists spread out between the one hotel and the camping areas. There’s virtually nothing there from an economic view, save for the Anegada Reef Hotel where we stayed, a couple of beach bars on the north side, a couple of campgrounds, and a tiny general store. And the airport, of course. It is best known for diving opportunities on the 300 shipwrecks surrounding the reef, while the outstanding bonefish fishery is still just being "discovered" by outsiders. Thus I was the only person bonefishing while we were there. Which is simply unbelievable, given the size and quality of the flats, until one remembers where these flats are: surrounding an island with all of 120 people on it, somewhere in the BVI. If this place was in the Keys, it would be overrun. Bonefish are *unbelievably* strong – it is said a 16" bonefish has three times the strength and endurance of a 24" trout. I don’t doubt it – though none of the bones I caught was anywhere near that small. Even the runt of the trip was over 24 inches long and a good 6 pounds – and that fish stripped out over an honest 180 yards of line and backing on its first run against a strong drag. The largest rainbows I’ve ever caught couldn’t put anywhere near that kind of show even on a mere five weight rod – but these fish were putting the full flex on an 8 weight (a Winston BL5 5pc – lord, what a sweet sweet rod this one is, too). All the fish were caught on white Gotchas, cast to tailing bones and then stripped back with short strokes. After tying a bunch of Charlies, Crab Puffs, Velcro Crabs, Gotchas, and small Clousers, in at least three colors (white, pink, and green) I started and ended with white Gotchas. That is, after I realized the flies weren’t heavy enough relying on the hooks (Mustad 34007 #6 SS) and bead eyes alone, and wrapping on a chunk of copper wire scavenged from a wrecked truck. Like flipping a switch, once I added that weight to the Gotchas, the only way I’d miss a fish was to line it. Once I hooked up with a bone, the fish was off for the proverbial sunset. I was using 12# Mirage for tippet, and set the drag for the better part of that, putting a fine bend in the Winston, and could only hold on for dear life and be ready to gain line when the opportunity arose, all the while trying to keep the fish out of the mangroves and away from coral chunks. Wild. Most of the casts were between 60 and 80 feet out. Sometimes the bones would eat the fly after only a couple of short strips, other times they’d follow the fly halfway back to the boat before taking the fly. Getting rid of 40 feet of loose line in a hurry isn’t all that easy – I got a couple of good scorch marks for my slower efforts (and they hurted so good ;-) Anyway…I can’t say enough about that whole experience. It was a total gas that won’t be forgotten soon. The Anegada Reef Hotel is a simple but comfortable place with great food, a wicked beach bar, and is operated by wonderful people. And Dave Vanterpool kept me in fish and in stitches each day – he’s a funny sonofabitch who knows the flats with his eyes closed, and will keep you on bones for as long as your arms can take the pressure. Wrapping it all up: – fishing the flats for bones is just a riot. I might be horribly spoiled by the experience. Only time will tell. I might try fishing the Rapid with a 2 weight to simulate the experience ;-) – the Winston BL5 is simply a wonderful rod. This 5 piece casts as nicely as any two piece 7-9 weight I’ve ever used, and it is post-911 airline friendly. It might be cold to state it, but Winston was sitting in the catbird seat on 910. – spotting random bonefish is an acquired skill, but it isn’t that hard to acquire that skill. Good Polaroids are a must, and side shades help, imo. Looking for tails is obvious, looking for plumes of silt a little less so, but beyond that you’re looking for glints and moving shadows. But by the middle of the second morning I often spotted a fish before my guide saw it. – Don’t dismiss the 6 inch deep puddles along the shore. I missed what was probably a ten pound bone by striking too soon on my first shot of the first day. That fish was feeding with the upper third of its body out of the water, damnedest thing I’ve seen in a while. If I had hooked it I’d probably be wishing I’d brought the camera that day… – the Reddington AL9/10 stood up to as much abuse as I could give it. My reeling arm is still sore. The reel is fine. The drag system is the bees knees. – you *can* land a twin engine low-wing aircraft laden with 10 people and gear on a 2500 foot runway, and take off from the same field later. Really! I swear to God! Often! /daytripper (Could’ve fooled me – I thought we were dead meat! =8-O

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Fly Fishing Fisherman Wiki » Fly Fishing » Mercury Extended Warranty

Mercury Extended Warranty

Question:

At $6000 for a pair, you are paying a lot up front, I think. I think I am going to self insure them. — Ron White Check out HAMMER the 30′ sportfisherman I am building http://www.concentric.net/~knotreel/

Response:

Bare in mind, "Extended Warranties" are the biggest scam going.  That’s just not my opinion, ask anyone who sell’s cars. It seems you always hear about the (1) guy who was really glad he bought the "Extended Warranty", what you don’t hear is the (100) others who paid a lot of money for nothing. Extended Warranties are like any other insurance and the odds are always greatly in favor of the insurer …not the insured.  Think about it ….if Extended Warranty programs weren’t such a juicy pie, why do you find everyone and their grandmother trying to sell them. Your best warranty is to know what the hell your buying in the first place and don’t buy junk! Dennis, WI

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – At $6000 for a pair, you are paying a lot up front, I think. I think I am going to self insure them. — Ron White Check out HAMMER the 30′ sportfisherman I am building http://www.concentric.net/~knotreel/

Response:

Ron, IMHO, buy the best and most comprehensive plan you can.  These motors today are very unreliable and you will be in the shop for repairs worth thousands of dollars every year. I was at my mechanics the other day.  A tourney fisherman was going to miss out on a tournament because parts for his 2000 225 Optimax wouldn’t be available until sometime in October.  Seems the demand for parts is outstripping supply. Just my observations.

Response:

I had decided to for go the Mercury extended warranty due to a $6000 cost to cover both of my 2000 225HP Optimaxs. My dealer offers an alternate plan thru Pinnacle for about half that of Mercury’s. Does anybody have any experience with Pinnacle extended warranty plans for big outboards? — Ron White Check out HAMMER the 30′ sportfisherman I am building http://www.concentric.net/~knotreel/

Response:

Ron, I don’t have knowlege about the coverage PINNACLE offers, but the extended warranty I got from Mercury covers ALL internally lubricated parts, both engine and outdrive (O.K. I have the 4.3L I/O, different coverage for the outboards I guess).  Seemed a good deal to me for the money..about $800 for 2 more years. Mike

Response:

  Ron, you might want to check with your dealer about that extended warranty.  When we bought our boat this past spring the dealer told us about a program(?) that Mercury was/is running.  It may have something to do with the volume of business our dealer does with Merc.  The dealer was given about $9k of Mercury’s money that he could use anyway he wanted.  Now, we bought the boat in Canada (we live in the U.S.), so it may not apply in your situation.  Anyway, our dealer offered to extend the warranty to five years for both motors and outdrives (hell, anything on the boat from Mercury) for $500 U.S.  Needless to say we wrote the check on the spot!  Normally I have no use for extended warranties, but this was too good a deal to pass up. Never hurts to inquire. Good luck. Keith McGregor 2000 Doral 300SE – Sweet E

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I had decided to for go the Mercury extended warranty due to a $6000 cost to cover both of my 2000 225HP Optimaxs. My dealer offers an alternate plan thru Pinnacle for about half that of Mercury’s. Does anybody have any experience with Pinnacle extended warranty plans for big outboards? — Ron White Check out HAMMER the 30′ sportfisherman I am building http://www.concentric.net/~knotreel/

Response:

=it is, that issue is not your concern.  Your concern is simply to ask what =will the outlay of $787.50 do for you.  It matters not to you that ten =different boaters will tell you they’ve never had a breakdown.  What matters =is the consequences to you if you do.  I’ve heard the argument that the And this is key.  For instance, on my first boat, corrosion damage wasn’t covered.  So, when the starter rusted from the inside out, I had to pay for it.  Now, I bought from a decent dealer, so they didn’t charge labor, and I paid for a new starter.  Good deal, considering how hard it was to remove.  It was difficult because the bolts holding the starter on rusted and broke.  I think they had to do lots of drilling (4.3L OMC Cobra). So, if 2.5 years from now, the riser rusts through and fills the engine with water and destroys it, do you have coverage?  I’m not saying you don’t, but that you should check.  Corrosion damage on a boat engine means much more than some rust on the outside of the engine.  What happens if you wrap a fishing line around the prop shaft, cut the outdrive seals, get water in the drive and damage the gears?  This is the kind of stuff that damages equipment.  And, of course, what if you hit something.  But, damage to your boat caused by hitting something is often covered under your insurance. Also, make sure you know who is providing the coverage.  Is it a fly by night company?  Or Merc itself?  Or a quality dealer? How new is the design of the equipment?  5.0L motors and Alpha I drives have been around a long time.  Ficht (sp?) and Optimax are much newer and probably have design flaws. Mike

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – It is hard to believe but my first year of boating is almost over. Wow that was fast. Mercury says I bought the boat on Oct. 28 and they are offering an extended warranty. The details are: 2 Year    $472.50 3 Year    $640.50 4 year    $787.50 I have a 5.0 Mercruiser. My question is, should I even consider this? It seems that extended warranties are just an incredible revenue generator for the companies but with being new to this maybe this is warranted. I use the boat maybe two or three times a week at most. I think I have put about 35-40 hours on the boat this summer. Thanks in advance for any advise you have. Ron Ron, here’s some food for thought about your warranty decision.  First, lets discuss the reasons you’ve heard why you shouldn’t buy it:  The most common reason is that the product is too profitable for the company who offers the warranty and/or the dealer who sells it to you.  Of course it is a profitable product.  Would you expect them to offer anything less?  Your boat was a profitable product when it was sold to you as well.  Maybe it is even an outrageously profitable product.  No matter how obscenely profitable it is, that issue is not your concern.  Your concern is simply to ask what will the outlay of $787.50 do for you.  It matters not to you that ten different boaters will tell you they’ve never had a breakdown.  What matters is the consequences to you if you do.  I’ve heard the argument that the warranty will limit its payout to the cost of replacing the engine/outdrive. I don’t really know the exact cost, I but feel very certain that the cost of replacing your drivetrain would be well in excess of $10,000.  If that’s the best the product did, with a base cost of $787.50, I’d say you should do so well with your other investments.  A major engine or drive failure can easily run $5-6k.  It takes almost nothing to go wrong that wouldn’t cost you more than $787.50.  We are talking boat repair prices here. My recommendation is to focus on your feelings on this one.  Ignore what the $787.50 does for Mercury’s bottom line.  Be concerned with your bottom line. What you are buying with the warranty is called a stop-loss.  Simply put, it means that for the next four years, it can’t get any worse than $787.50.  It really is just that simple.  It is the only issue you need to focus on.  Do you like having that net underneath you?  Or do you enjoy the thrill of life without one?  How well do you sleep?  Base your decision with that in mind. There is no way to quantify the chances of you recouping your cost back. Two other thoughts to consider:  If you buy the warranty, and you should decide to sell the boat during the warranty period, you have also bought a stop loss for the potential buyer of your boat.  If you’ve never bought or sold in the used market, you have no idea how powerful an asset that warranty can be as a sales incentive.  There is no reason to think that the remaining term on the warranty wouldn’t be worth the full $787.50 to a buyer who doesn’t know you from Adam and doesn’t know the history of the boat.  It puts you a leg up on the competition.  Even if you like living without a net, your buyer might not, especially with a used boat.  Also, consider that you are buying your coverage directly from Mercury, not an after market company.  That means that any Mercury authorized warranty facility will honor that warranty without hesitation.  For $787.50, I think its a steal. Russ Of course, all this assumes the company, whatever company (insurance or manufacturer), doesn’t fight actually HONORING this extended warranty.  We can always refuse to fix it and call it "water ingestion" or some other hole in the contract big enough to drive a Feadship through…… If you’re going to buy a contract, take the contract HOME and READ IT CAREFULLY.  Mark out all the huge holes with a magic marker, you know, where it says they don’t HAVE to fix it if they don’t want to.  Take the modified contract back to the dealer and get him, as representative of the company, to initial all the contractual changes. If he says he can’t, mail the contract back to the company and ask THEM to initial the contractual changes.  This way, you’ll at least get a contract that will actually force them to fix the boat, without you having to kiss their corporate asses and be a buddy-buddy with the dealer. READ THE CONTRACT, very carefully.  Look at all the "outs" their lawyers have written into it.  It can happen to you…it has me. Larry….Yamaha Y.E.S. contract.  Not worth the paper it’s printed on in ‘97.  They had no intention of ever honoring it.

You should follow your own advice, Larry. Next time you buy a home computer, read the specs. That way, you won’t have to moan about how you were–once again–screwed. — Harry Krause – - – - – - – - – - – - Hey!  You can’t commit suicide with Ex-Lax!

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – It is hard to believe but my first year of boating is almost over. Wow that was fast. Mercury says I bought the boat on Oct. 28 and they are offering an extended warranty. The details are: 2 Year    $472.50 3 Year    $640.50 4 year    $787.50 I have a 5.0 Mercruiser. My question is, should I even consider this? It seems that extended warranties are just an incredible revenue generator for the companies but with being new to this maybe this is warranted. I use the boat maybe two or three times a week at most. I think I have put about 35-40 hours on the boat this summer. Thanks in advance for any advise you have. Ron Ron, here’s some food for thought about your warranty decision.  First, lets discuss the reasons you’ve heard why you shouldn’t buy it:  The most common reason is that the product is too profitable for the company who offers the warranty and/or the dealer who sells it to you.  Of course it is a profitable product.  Would you expect them to offer anything less?  Your boat was a profitable product when it was sold to you as well.  Maybe it is even an outrageously profitable product.  No matter how obscenely profitable it is, that issue is not your concern.  Your concern is simply to ask what will the outlay of $787.50 do for you.  It matters not to you that ten different boaters will tell you they’ve never had a breakdown.  What matters is the consequences to you if you do.  I’ve heard the argument that the warranty will limit its payout to the cost of replacing the engine/outdrive. I don’t really know the exact cost, I but feel very certain that the cost of replacing your drivetrain would be well in excess of $10,000.  If that’s the best the product did, with a base cost of $787.50, I’d say you should do so well with your other investments.  A major engine or drive failure can easily run $5-6k.  It takes almost nothing to go wrong that wouldn’t cost you more than $787.50.  We are talking boat repair prices here. My recommendation is to focus on your feelings on this one.  Ignore what the $787.50 does for Mercury’s bottom line.  Be concerned with your bottom line. What you are buying with the warranty is called a stop-loss.  Simply put, it means that for the next four years, it can’t get any worse than $787.50.  It really is just that simple.  It is the only issue you need to focus on.  Do you like having that net underneath you?  Or do you enjoy the thrill of life without one?  How well do you sleep?  Base your decision with that in mind. There is no way to quantify the chances of you recouping your cost back. Two other thoughts to consider:  If you buy the warranty, and you should decide to sell the boat during the warranty period, you have also bought a stop loss for the potential buyer of your boat.  If you’ve never bought or sold in the used market, you have no idea how powerful an asset that warranty can be as a sales incentive.  There is no reason to think that the remaining term on the warranty wouldn’t be worth the full $787.50 to a buyer who doesn’t know you from Adam and doesn’t know the history of the boat.  It puts you a leg up on the competition.  Even if you like living without a net, your buyer might not, especially with a used boat.  Also, consider that you are buying your coverage directly from Mercury, not an after market company.  That means that any Mercury authorized warranty facility will honor that warranty without hesitation.  For $787.50, I think its a steal. Russ

Of course, all this assumes the company, whatever company (insurance or manufacturer), doesn’t fight actually HONORING this extended warranty.  We can always refuse to fix it and call it "water ingestion" or some other hole in the contract big enough to drive a Feadship through…… If you’re going to buy a contract, take the contract HOME and READ IT CAREFULLY.  Mark out all the huge holes with a magic marker, you know, where it says they don’t HAVE to fix it if they don’t want to.  Take the modified contract back to the dealer and get him, as representative of the company, to initial all the contractual changes. If he says he can’t, mail the contract back to the company and ask THEM to initial the contractual changes.  This way, you’ll at least get a contract that will actually force them to fix the boat, without you having to kiss their corporate asses and be a buddy-buddy with the dealer. READ THE CONTRACT, very carefully.  Look at all the "outs" their lawyers have written into it.  It can happen to you…it has me. Larry….Yamaha Y.E.S. contract.  Not worth the paper it’s printed on in ‘97.  They had no intention of ever honoring it.

Response:

It is hard to believe but my first year of boating is almost over. Wow that was fast. Mercury says I bought the boat on Oct. 28 and they are offering an extended warranty. The details are: 2 Year    $472.50 3 Year    $640.50 4 year    $787.50 I have a 5.0 Mercruiser. My question is, should I even consider this? It seems that extended warranties are just an incredible revenue generator for the companies but with being new to this maybe this is warranted. I use the boat maybe two or three times a week at most. I think I have put about 35-40 hours on the boat this summer. Thanks in advance for any advise you have. Ron Share what you know. Learn what you don’t.

Response:

My two cents worth. I believe it is worth it. I am getting it for my Merc 250hp outboard. $1900 for 3 years. Cheap when you think of shop hour charges and parts. Ask your dealer about his past worst case of how many hours to fix a nasty problem. Good Luck

Response:

I have been boating for 13 years and I am on my 3rd vessel and all of them have had Mercruiser engines and outdrives and I have never ever had a problem that needed repairs either under warranty or outside of the warranty period. I have twin Mercs now on my new Maxum and declined the extended warranty…it is a revenue grabber..but I have peace of mind knowing my vessel has Mercs…I’ll not use anything else. Nshore – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – It is hard to believe but my first year of boating is almost over. Wow that was fast. Mercury says I bought the boat on Oct. 28 and they are offering an extended warranty. The details are: 2 Year    $472.50 3 Year    $640.50 4 year    $787.50 I have a 5.0 Mercruiser. My question is, should I even consider this? It seems that extended warranties are just an incredible revenue generator for the companies but with being new to this maybe this is warranted. I use the boat maybe two or three times a week at most. I think I have put about 35-40 hours on the boat this summer. Thanks in advance for any advise you have. Ron Share what you know. Learn what you don’t.

Response:

I have a 1994 5.7 EFI by Volvo.  The extended warranty was approx. $1,500, $750 of that being a sales commission to the dealer.  I did not buy the warranty and have never had any warranty or non warranty work done on the engine.  All I did was scheduled maintenance which is not covered. Most of the "insurance" policies limited the total coverage or payout during the policy period to the total replacement cost of the engine, so if you have a real lemon of an engine, they will only repair it till your total claims reach the replacement costs of the engine.  It is a very very profitable insurance policy for the dealer and warranty company. — Jim 1994 Regal 256 for sale – see ad at http://www.classifieds2000.com/cgi-cls/ad.exe?P61+C189+A0+R1127049+Q2… 4 To see pictures of the boat’s layout visit: http://www.regalboats.com/htm/boats_commodore_258.shtml

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I have been boating for 13 years and I am on my 3rd vessel and all of them have had Mercruiser engines and outdrives and I have never ever had a problem that needed repairs either under warranty or outside of the warranty period. I have twin Mercs now on my new Maxum and declined the extended warranty…it is a revenue grabber..but I have peace of mind knowing my vessel has Mercs…I’ll not use anything else. Nshore It is hard to believe but my first year of boating is almost over. Wow that was fast. Mercury says I bought the boat on Oct. 28 and they are offering an extended warranty. The details are: 2 Year    $472.50 3 Year    $640.50 4 year    $787.50 I have a 5.0 Mercruiser. My question is, should I even consider this? It seems that extended warranties are just an incredible revenue generator for the companies but with being new to this maybe this is warranted. I use the boat maybe two or three times a week at most. I think I have put about 35-40 hours on the boat this summer. Thanks in advance for any advise you have. Ron Share what you know. Learn what you don’t.

Response:

Ron: My "new" boat is in its second season, and I just signed up for a 5 year comprehensive coverage, including the 5.7 L Mer-Cruiser and all components on the boat (Sea Ray). This is far from cheap, representing about 2% of the entire cost of the new boat, but for peace of mind, and a comfortable feeling about Sea Ray response to date, I decided to go for it. My decision is also partly based on my lack of strong mechanical skills. Marty in NJ

Response:

Ron: My "new" boat is in its second season, and I just signed up for a 5 year comprehensive coverage, including the 5.7 L Mer-Cruiser and all components on the boat (Sea Ray). This is far from cheap, representing about 2% of the entire cost of the new boat, but for peace of mind, and a comfortable feeling about Sea Ray response to date, I decided to go for it. My decision is also partly based on my lack of strong mechanical skills. Marty in NJ

It’s all a gamble, of course, but, if *one* serious thing goes wrong with your engine when the standard warranty expires, your extended warranty will pay for itself. It’s also a good thing to have at trade or selling time. In NE Florida, it is damned hard to sell a rig if the engine doesn’t have at least a year or two left on extended warranty. — Harry Krause – - – - – - – - – - – - Democracy can withstand anything but democrats.

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – It is hard to believe but my first year of boating is almost over. Wow that was fast. Mercury says I bought the boat on Oct. 28 and they are offering an extended warranty. The details are: 2 Year    $472.50 3 Year    $640.50 4 year    $787.50 I have a 5.0 Mercruiser. My question is, should I even consider this? It seems that extended warranties are just an incredible revenue generator for the companies but with being new to this maybe this is warranted. I use the boat maybe two or three times a week at most. I think I have put about 35-40 hours on the boat this summer. Thanks in advance for any advise you have. Ron

Ron, here’s some food for thought about your warranty decision.  First, lets discuss the reasons you’ve heard why you shouldn’t buy it:  The most common reason is that the product is too profitable for the company who offers the warranty and/or the dealer who sells it to you.  Of course it is a profitable product.  Would you expect them to offer anything less?  Your boat was a profitable product when it was sold to you as well.  Maybe it is even an outrageously profitable product.  No matter how obscenely profitable it is, that issue is not your concern.  Your concern is simply to ask what will the outlay of $787.50 do for you.  It matters not to you that ten different boaters will tell you they’ve never had a breakdown.  What matters is the consequences to you if you do.  I’ve heard the argument that the warranty will limit its payout to the cost of replacing the engine/outdrive. I don’t really know the exact cost, I but feel very certain that the cost of replacing your drivetrain would be well in excess of $10,000.  If that’s the best the product did, with a base cost of $787.50, I’d say you should do so well with your other investments.  A major engine or drive failure can easily run $5-6k.  It takes almost nothing to go wrong that wouldn’t cost you more than $787.50.  We are talking boat repair prices here. My recommendation is to focus on your feelings on this one.  Ignore what the $787.50 does for Mercury’s bottom line.  Be concerned with your bottom line. What you are buying with the warranty is called a stop-loss.  Simply put, it means that for the next four years, it can’t get any worse than $787.50.  It really is just that simple.  It is the only issue you need to focus on.  Do you like having that net underneath you?  Or do you enjoy the thrill of life without one?  How well do you sleep?  Base your decision with that in mind. There is no way to quantify the chances of you recouping your cost back. Two other thoughts to consider:  If you buy the warranty, and you should decide to sell the boat during the warranty period, you have also bought a stop loss for the potential buyer of your boat.  If you’ve never bought or sold in the used market, you have no idea how powerful an asset that warranty can be as a sales incentive.  There is no reason to think that the remaining term on the warranty wouldn’t be worth the full $787.50 to a buyer who doesn’t know you from Adam and doesn’t know the history of the boat.  It puts you a leg up on the competition.  Even if you like living without a net, your buyer might not, especially with a used boat.  Also, consider that you are buying your coverage directly from Mercury, not an after market company.  That means that any Mercury authorized warranty facility will honor that warranty without hesitation.  For $787.50, I think its a steal. Russ

Response:

Simple question, Ron…… Can you afford to fix it if it breaks? If Yes, to hell with warranties.  If they thought it was going to break expensively, they sure as hell wouldn’t let you off the hook for a few hundred bucks, would they.  Take you chances. If No, you’re strapped for cash and couldn’t afford a $2000 repair bill if it lunches….Insurance isn’t so bad, even IF they are making a killing selling it, which they ARE! You decide….. I buy very little insurance unless I think there is a disaster in the making….like house insurance, boat insurance, etc….that would wipe me out.  Breaking a V-8 and paying off the Mastercard I used to pay for it is MUCH cheaper than paying thousands for bogus insurance you’re going to have to fight with insurance bureaucrats to get them to pay.  NOONE ever refuses my MasterCard!! Larry….I’l fix it. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -It is hard to believe but my first year of boating is almost over. Wow that was fast. Mercury says I bought the boat on Oct. 28 and they are offering an extended warranty. The details are: 2 Year    $472.50 3 Year    $640.50 4 year    $787.50 I have a 5.0 Mercruiser. My question is, should I even consider this? It seems that extended warranties are just an incredible revenue generator for the companies but with being new to this maybe this is warranted. I use the boat maybe two or three times a week at most. I think I have put about 35-40 hours on the boat this summer. Thanks in advance for any advise you have. Ron Share what you know. Learn what you don’t.

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Fly Fishing Fisherman Wiki » Flyfishing » wading Islamorada

wading Islamorada

Question:

I’m planning a familiy trip down to Islamorada this summer. Since I’m on a budget I can unfortunately only afford to hire a guide for one day. How good are the opportunities for doing some solo wade-flyfishing in the Islamorada area. Too vast and crowded? Tips are appreciated, Tor Larsen

Response:

Spme State Parks w/ood access South of there

Response:

Rook2, I was there last year and had a fine time fishing from the road side. If you head on out towards Key West not very far from Islamorada there’s a number road side areas you can fish where the boat cuts come close to shore. I pulled two fine bone fish out this way. Good luck – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Spme State Parks w/ood access South of there

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Fly Fishing Fisherman Wiki » Fly Fishing » What is acceptable

What is acceptable

Question:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – some 2nd Amendment Gun Oil for your guns?  I’ll be glad to send you a bottle. Best stuff for any weapon you have, especially for anything auto or semi automatic.  Best in the world but the Pentagon doesn’t know it yet.  (as usual). Be glad to send you ‘a sample’.  On me.  It will save you four bucks.  (Expensive stuff to make).  You’re worth a regiment here on ROFF pard. got to keep your fire power up. Mr. G. —

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Fly Fishing Fisherman Wiki » Fly Fishing » How to catch whitefish with spinning rod?

How to catch whitefish with spinning rod?

Question:

Hi everyone,     Is it possible to catch river whitefish with spinning rod? All I’ve heard so far is to use  fly rod. Any hint on using spinning tackle would be greatly appreciated. George

Response:

Probably not the same type of river your talking about, but I use a spinning rod with a small teardrop ice jig tipped with a wax worm when fishing for ciscoes and whitefish on the Ste. Mary’s River system. But we’re in 30′ of water, anchored. Hi everyone,     Is it possible to catch river whitefish with spinning rod? All I’ve heard so far is to use  fly rod. Any hint on using spinning tackle would be greatly appreciated. George

– Joe "Mushrat" Woytta http://www.flash.net/~mushrat Northern Pike anglers, check out http://www.flash.net/~mushrat/pikemasters

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Fly Fishing Fisherman Wiki » River Fly Fishing » Getting started in Oregon… (How?)

Getting started in Oregon… (How?)

Question:

Hello! I tried fly fishing in the beautiful mountains of Lake Tahoe and found it a wonderful experience! I now live in Portland, Oregon and would like to take it up. I hear Oregon is a good spot for fly fishing. If anyone has any advise on how to get started, I would be very grateful… My children (2 girls) are 4 and 6 years old. I now have the opportunity to take a weekend and try this wonderful sport. I am looking for advise on: 1. Equipment to get started with (beginner stuff) 2. Places close to Portland to go and try this, without annoying the experts :^) 3. The times of year to go 4. Anyone who would like to have me tag along on a day trip… I am 29 and in good shape (for hiking into those "great spots"). The first time I tried it, I think I did fairly well (picking up on the motions). But I definitely need some pointers on what I might be doing incorrectly… Thanks! –Mike

Response:

check out http://www.csport.com site for countrysport fly fishing shop, downtown Portland. Very helpful and they hold classes for different levels on the Crooked River in central Oregon. Drop in and se them or give them a call. Don Beaverton

Response:

Have a look at the Oregon section of the Anadromous page http://www.scotangling.com/oregon/reports.htm Lots of useful info and people to contact.

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Fly Fishing Fisherman Wiki » Fly Fish » Idaho in July?Where?

Idaho in July?Where?

Question:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Want to fly fish Idaho in July. Dont know where to go.Any suggestions?Dry and nymph fishing. I would go to Silver Creek, about 45 min. southeast of Ketchum/Sun Valley. It is a spring creek and is very special. I would stop in Silver Creek Outfitters in Ketchum and get some good flies for that time period. Ask them what time of day to fish which flies. You will need a #3, #4 or soft #5 rod with a floating line. They usually have a Trico spinner fall in the morning starting somewhere around 8 am and ending well before noon depending on the weather. The mid-day is pretty tough, but 5/6pm ’til dark should be another good period. Many anglers stop by this area on the annual pilgrimage to Montana. Bill Kiene Kiene’s Fly Shop Sacramento,CA,USA 800/4000FLY

There is also a little-known spring creek on the Fort Hall Indian Reservation about 10 miles north of Pocatello, Idaho. you need a tribal permit, which last I knew was $10.00/day. This is a sizable piece of water which flows into American Falls Reservoir. Very prolific Pale Morning Dun hatches (Ephemerella Infrequens) mostly size 16 also E. Doddsi size 18. Educated fish along with masking hatches etc. good challenge. Not far out of the way if a person is at Silver Creek, about 3 hours drive. Jim Nelson

Response:

: I would go to Silver Creek, about 45 min. southeast of Ketchum/Sun Valley. It is : a spring creek and is very special. I would stop in Silver Creek Outfitters in : Ketchum and get some good flies for that time period. Ask them what time of day : to fish which flies. You will need a #3, #4 or soft #5 rod with a floating line. I believe there is now a Silver Creek Outfitters down by the creek, on the road to Ketchum.  It might be something else, but I seem to recall it is Silver Creek Outfitters. — Rick T. Rick Fletcher   –   http://www.chem.uidaho.edu/~fletcher/ Associate professor of chemistry  |  That’s Idaho, not Iowa.    | ad hominem University of Idaho               |  Upper Left Hand Corner.    | ad hominem Moscow, ID 83844-2343             |  No, I don’t grow potatoes. | ad hominem

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Want to fly fish Idaho in July. Dont know where to go.Any suggestions?Dry and nymph fishing. I would go to Silver Creek, about 45 min. southeast of Ketchum/Sun Valley. It is a spring creek and is very special. I would stop in Silver Creek Outfitters in Ketchum and get some good flies for that time period. Ask them what time of day to fish which flies. You will need a #3, #4 or soft #5 rod with a floating line. They usually have a Trico spinner fall in the morning starting somewhere around 8 am and ending well before noon depending on the weather. The mid-day is pretty tough, but 5/6pm ’til dark should be another good period. Many anglers stop by this area on the annual pilgrimage to Montana. Bill Kiene Kiene’s Fly Shop Sacramento,CA,USA 800/4000FLY There is also a little-known spring creek on the Fort Hall Indian Reservation about 10 miles north of Pocatello, Idaho. you need a tribal permit, which last I knew was $10.00/day. This is a sizable piece of water which flows into American Falls Reservoir. Very prolific Pale Morning Dun hatches (Ephemerella Infrequens) mostly size 16 also E. Doddsi size 18. Educated fish along with masking hatches etc. good challenge. Not far out of the way if a person is at Silver Creek, about 3 hours drive. Jim NelsonEvery river is going to be raging until August or September.  Put your

trip off until then or look to fish the lakes, ie. Henry’s lake Guy

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Want to fly fish Idaho in July. Dont know where to go.Any suggestions?Dry and nymph fishing. I would go to Silver Creek, about 45 min. southeast of Ketchum/Sun Valley. It is a spring creek and is very special. I would stop in Silver Creek Outfitters in Ketchum and get some good flies for that time period. Ask them what time of day to fish which flies. You will need a #3, #4 or soft #5 rod with a floating line. They usually have a Trico spinner fall in the morning starting somewhere around 8 am and ending well before noon depending on the weather. The mid-day is pretty tough, but 5/6pm ’til dark should be another good period. Many anglers stop by this area on the annual pilgrimage to Montana. Bill Kiene Kiene’s Fly Shop Sacramento,CA,USA 800/4000FLY There is also a little-known spring creek on the Fort Hall Indian Reservation about 10 miles north of Pocatello, Idaho. you need a tribal permit, which last I knew was $10.00/day. This is a sizable piece of water which flows into American Falls Reservoir. Very prolific Pale Morning Dun hatches (Ephemerella Infrequens) mostly size 16 also E. Doddsi size 18. Educated fish along with masking hatches etc. good challenge. Not far out of the way if a person is at Silver Creek, about 3 hours drive. Jim NelsonEvery river is going to be raging until August or September.  Put your trip off until then or look to fish the lakes, ie. Henry’s lake Guy

 In most cases the high water doesn’t have a large effect on the spring creeks. The spring creeks on the Fort Hall reservation do rise and become somewhat off-color, but they do remain fishable.  I was told, since my earlier post, that the tribe is now limiting the number of permits sold, and that all the available season permits have been sold. I don’t know this for sure, nor do I know if daily permits are still available. Before a person came here to fish it would be prudent to call the Fort Hall Tribal headquarters and find out. Jim N.

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Want to fly fish Idaho in July. Dont know where to go.Any suggestions?Dry and nymph fishing.

Response:

: Want to fly fish Idaho in July. Dont know where to go.Any suggestions?Dry : and nymph fishing. Which part… it’s a big state.  And like night and day. — Rick T. Rick Fletcher   –   http://www.chem.uidaho.edu/~fletcher/ Associate professor of chemistry  |  That’s Idaho, not Iowa.    | ad hominem University of Idaho               |  Upper Left Hand Corner.    | ad hominem Moscow, ID 83844-2343             |  No, I don’t grow potatoes. | ad hominem

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Robert, I’m going out in July…I plan to go to the Big Wood River & Silver Creek in the south central part of Idaho.  Never been exactly there, but I’ve read a couple of favorable things about the area and it looks like a good destination.  Most of my 13 day trip is in Montana, but this looks a good diversion.   Ray Palmer

Response:

Want to fly fish Idaho in July. Dont know where to go.Any suggestions?Dry and nymph fishing.

I would go to Silver Creek, about 45 min. southeast of Ketchum/Sun Valley. It is a spring creek and is very special. I would stop in Silver Creek Outfitters in Ketchum and get some good flies for that time period. Ask them what time of day to fish which flies. You will need a #3, #4 or soft #5 rod with a floating line. They usually have a Trico spinner fall in the morning starting somewhere around 8 am and ending well before noon depending on the weather. The mid-day is pretty tough, but 5/6pm ’til dark should be another good period. Many anglers stop by this area on the annual pilgrimage to Montana. Bill Kiene Kiene’s Fly Shop Sacramento,CA,USA 800/4000FLY

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Fly Fishing Fisherman Wiki » Fly Fishing Rods » LL Bean LL Saltwater Rods

LL Bean LL Saltwater Rods

Question:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I was wondering if someone could provide me with information on LL Bean’s LL Saltwater Rods.  For instance: 1.      Who makes the blanks. 2.      To which models made by their competitors is the action most comparable. 3.      How well do they hold up (i.e., do they tend to break when fighting fish). 4.      Would they be suitable for steelhead fishing? I am considering getting a 9 wt.  Any advice would be much appreciated.

I don’t know anything about the LLBean rod but I suspect they are not making it themselves. I can however give a glowing recommendation to G Loomis IM6 9wght 9′.   Its great!  Has good feel and balance.  I do alot of steelhead fishing in the northshore of Lake Superior and the lakes south shore along wisconsin.  I have never lost a fish because of that rod and have had a lot of fun with it.   Good luck! Lee Clore "I once caught a brook trout smaller than the mosquitoe that was chewing the shit out of my arm"                 Quote from unnamed flyfisherman in Whitewater St Park, MN

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I was wondering if someone could provide me with information on LL Bean’s LL Saltwater Rods.  For instance: 1.      Who makes the blanks. 2.      To which models made by their competitors is the action most comparable. 3.      How well do they hold up (i.e., do they tend to break when fighting fish). 4.      Would they be suitable for steelhead fishing? I am considering getting a 9 wt.  Any advice would be much appreciated.

A few issues back one of the saltwater flyfishing mags did an article called "9 Weight Shootout" or something to that effect. Virtually all the better known manufacturers submitted rods to be evaluated. The rods were tested with several different lines. It was similar to tests in ski magazines, and I thought it was well done. Anyway, the L.L.Bean rod was rated as one of the top 1 or 2 rods. I don’t remember if it was in "Fly Fishing In Salt Waters" or in "Saltwater Fly Fishing", but I’d recommend you check it out. I’ll see if I can locate it tonite.                                                         jc

Response:

I can however give a glowing recommendation to G Loomis IM6 9wght 9′.   Its great!  Has good feel and balance.  I do alot of steelhead fishing in the northshore of Lake Superior and the lakes south shore along wisconsin.  I have never lost a fish because of that rod and have had a lot of fun with it.   Good luck! Lee Clore

Lee, I saw your post about fishing Superior along the Wisconsin border.  I’ve been invited to fish the Bruel the 2nd week of Oct.  Any info you can give me regarding the conditions I could expect would be appreciated. Also, what kind of rig do you use.  I’ve had the "chuck & Duck" system described to me (i.e.. little or no fly line), but would be interested in your opinions on the matter. Thanks Rick Padgett

Response:

i have a 11 weight rod, action is a little stiff, casts well in windy conditions, ive caught stripped bass in the 30-35 inch range without any difficultly

Response:

(MaineTrip) writes: ive caught stripped bass in the 30-35 inch range without any difficultly

Bummer, if I’m catching fish that large I’d be disappointed if they didn’t give me some difficulty.        Jim

Response:

I was wondering if someone could provide me with information on LL Bean’s LL Saltwater Rods.  For instance: 1.      Who makes the blanks. 2.      To which models made by their competitors is the action most comparable. 3.      How well do they hold up (i.e., do they tend to break when fighting fish). 4.      Would they be suitable for steelhead fishing? I am considering getting a 9 wt.  Any advice would be much appreciated.

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Fly Fishing Fisherman Wiki » Fly Fishing Flies » ESPN & Hand-tied Flies

ESPN & Hand-tied Flies

Question:

Yes, REAL hand-tied. Saw an article a few years back about a company in Scotland with a room of ladies tying without vises. Maybe traditional in the Islands? mayfly

Hand-tied flies, what about it? As far as I know Hardys famous flies were all hand-tied. Tying without a vise is going through some sort of renaissance.

Response:

(LinerLock) writes: My wife gave the video "Lee Wulff on the Beaverkill" to me for Christmas. Mr. Wulff was in his 80’s when the video was shot.  In it, he ties four flies, all without a vise.  I believe that one was a Royal Wulff in size 18.  My impression is that he tied all of his flies without a vise.  Of course, I don’t think that they were as pretty as the ones you reference on ESPN.

You can see a smple of how this is done in Darrell Martin’s book Fly Tying Methods on page 253, chapter 30 "Sans-Vise Tying". You can also see how to tie atlantic salmon flies without a vise in the book How To Dress Salmon Flies by T.E. Pryce-Tannat (originally published in 1914) or Salmon Flies by George Kelson (originally published in 1895). both are currently available in reprint.                                            Dan Dan Gracia                                                               Orvis West Coast Fly Fishing Schools If you kill that big fish you can’t catch ‘em again.  So what if they eat other fish?  If you kill the big ones there will only be little ones left (funny how that works!).

Response:

Lee tied all of his flies in his hands.  In the early 70’s, he and Joan gave a clinic for the old Garcia Company.  After dinner their 12-year old tied a #12 Royal Wulff in  his fingers. It can be done.  Grasp the hook between the thumb and third finger of the left hand.  Use the index and middle finger to position material.  Half hitch after tying each part of the fly.  It seems to be easier without a bobbin. A vise is faster, and mistakes are easier to correct.  I suspect Lee’s in-hand tied flies were all part of the mystique he created for himself.

Response:

My wife gave the video "Lee Wulff on the Beaverkill" to me for Christmas. Mr. Wulff was in his 80’s when the video was shot.  In it, he ties four flies, all without a vise.  I believe that one was a Royal Wulff in size 18.  My impression is that he tied all of his flies without a vise.  Of course, I don’t think that they were as pretty as the ones you reference on ESPN. Johnny Johnson

Perhaps the best tyer to eschew a vice was an Idahoan named Bing Lemke.  Mr. Lemke passed on a few years ago.  Mr. Lemke had hands that looked like he worked in a slaughter house, they were big and rough with deep wrinkles.  But Bing’s fame came from the extended body may flies he tied on size 28 and 32 hooks.  Yes sizes 28 and 32.   Yes he used no vice.  The hooks were specially provided to him by Mustad — I think they were model 540K, but I could be wrong.  The flies were beautiful and the photos I have seen show six or eight flies lined up on a match stick.  Unfortunately (or fortunately, depending on your perspective) Bing never was featured on ESPN.

Response:

(Spin4trout) writes: The employees weren’t using a vise, just their hands while tying. Now

that’s a skill. My wife gave the video "Lee Wulff on the Beaverkill" to me for Christmas. Mr. Wulff was in his 80’s when the video was shot.  In it, he ties four flies, all without a vise.  I believe that one was a Royal Wulff in size 18.  My impression is that he tied all of his flies without a vise.  Of course, I don’t think that they were as pretty as the ones you reference on ESPN. Johnny Johnson

Response:

Did any of you catch the recent ESPN FF show about salmon fishing in Ireland. They showed a company making REAL hand-tied flies. The employees weren’t using a vise, just their hands while tying. Now that’s a skill. Don Burns

Yes, REAL hand-tied. Saw an article a few years back about a company in Scotland with a room of ladies tying without vises. Maybe traditional in the Islands? mayfly

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Fly Fishing Fisherman Wiki » Flyfishing » Flyfishing for Trout in WA

Flyfishing for Trout in WA

Question:

I’m new to the Washington State area and would like to try my luck on some of the rivers and streams in the western half of the state.  Would any body mind dirrecting me to some decent rivers in this area, mind you, I don’t want to know your secret spot but maybe the location of some productive streams/rivers. Thank you in advance for any information you all might render.

Response:

I am going to Cancun in mid april with my company, and I would like to know if there is any fly-fishing in the immediate area around Cancun.   If you know of anything or anyone please let me know.  Thank You.

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