Question:

well said I think.  put another way: A $10000 body will produce the same results as a $100 one if you shoot the basics. Sunil www.lockon.f2s.com

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I will probably be slammed by people thinking my reply is rude but here goes: If you have to ask this question you do not need an F5.  An F5 is a professional camera.  It is designed to withstand the rigors of pro use, and have the features we need when on location, regardless of the situation that comes up.  Buy the F100 or possibly the 90s.  Either of these cameras will save you close to $1000, and you can then buy better lenses.  One of the funniest things I see when working is I will be standing there with my F5 and my 80-200 AF-S, and someone will come up to me with an F5 and a tamron 28-200 lens on it and want to talk shop, and he has no clue what an f-stop is. Seriously, save your money, don’t spend it just because you have it.  You will be buying features you will NEVER use! Mike

Response:

Your right.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I am not upset. I just wanted to point out some thing you didn’t mention. No offense intended. Relax, he didn’t say what he needed the camera to do.  He just asked if the F5 was worth the money.  You act like I insulted your mother — not your camera.  Jeez. The F5 has every feature available to a 35mm camera (as far as I know). You can do everything photographic with it.  The F100 has limitations. To me the F5 is cheaper than the F100 because of a few features it has over the F100.  The easily swappable focusing screens, mirror lock-up, interchangeable viewfinders, and 100% viewfinder are all virtually priceless features.  I believe the F100 lacks DOF preview though I cannot be sure at the moment.  Personally I would think Nikon could include at least a few of these features considering how expensive the F100 is.  If you can cough up enough for the F100 then keep coughing until you get the F5 in your hands. There are two advantages to the F100, weight and price. If you need MLU, 100% viewfinder, etc go for the F5. If weight is an issue, the F100 is a great camera body. BTW the F100 has DOF preview. — Tom Thackrey tom at creative-light.com www.creative-light.com —–= Posted via Newsfeeds.Com, Uncensored Usenet News =—– http://www.newsfeeds.com – The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! —–==  Over 80,000 Newsgroups – 16 Different Servers! =—–

Response:

What do you mean by "can’t use"?, is it not possible to mount an AI or AIS lens to the camera?, or does the matrix metering not function with MF lenses? If you are referring to Pre-AI lenses then I could see that they couldn’t be mounted to the camera (due to the AI tooth).

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Hey greg, If you are going to recommend the N90s then why not the N80? I thought I read somewhere that the N80 is the only Nikon that can’t use the older lenses. If this is true IMO then that’s reason enough not to bother with one.

Response:

Hey greg, If you are going to recommend the N90s then why not the N80? I thought I read somewhere that the N80 is the only Nikon that can’t use the older lenses. If this is true IMO then that’s reason enough not to bother with one.

The AI and AIS Nikkors will mount to the N80, but the meter is inoperative. — Tony Polson

Response:

Not even the spot-meter!?!?

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Hey greg, If you are going to recommend the N90s then why not the N80? I thought I read somewhere that the N80 is the only Nikon that can’t use the older lenses. If this is true IMO then that’s reason enough not to bother with one. The AI and AIS Nikkors will mount to the N80, but the meter is inoperative. — Tony Polson

Response:

Not even the spot-meter!?!?

Not even the spot meter.  The N80/F80 will meter only with lenses that have a built-in CPU.  All AF lenses will meter, plus all AI-P lenses.   Nothing else will meter. I found this very disappointing, as I think the N80/F80 is otherwise an excellent camera.  Had it metered with AI/AIS lenses, I would have bought one as a second body to go with my F3.   As it is, I bought an F4, sold the F3 and then bought an F4 as a second body to go with the first F4.  And I’ve steadily replaced my lenses over the last 5 months to the point where all but two are AF Nikkors.  So I’m now considering selling one F4 and replacing it with a smaller, lighter body, which includes just about every 35mm SLR camera ever made.  <g It will be either a used F100 or a new F80. — Tony Polson

Response:

The N80 is for the "new generation" of camera users. Those who start new in the AF line. It is not marketed as a retro camera. The camera’s metering system only works with AF lenses. Regards, Roger – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – What do you mean by "can’t use"?, is it not possible to mount an AI or AIS lens to the camera?, or does the matrix metering not function with MF lenses? If you are referring to Pre-AI lenses then I could see that they couldn’t be mounted to the camera (due to the AI tooth). Hey greg, If you are going to recommend the N90s then why not the N80? I thought I read somewhere that the N80 is the only Nikon that can’t use the older lenses. If this is true IMO then that’s reason enough not to bother with one.

Response:

It will be either a used F100 or a new F80.

Why an F80 over an F90x?

Response:

I guess he wants the more advanced AF.  That’s the only thing these two camera have in common that the F90x lacks.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – It will be either a used F100 or a new F80. Why an F80 over an F90x?

Response:

The F5 will probably make a much better door stop …. then again, you might be able to throw the F100 farther ….. just depends upon your priorities – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I will probably be slammed by people thinking my reply is rude but here goes: If you have to ask this question you do not need an F5.  An F5 is a professional camera.  It is designed to withstand the rigors of pro use, and have the features we need when on location, regardless of the situation that comes up.  Buy the F100 or possibly the 90s.  Either of these cameras will save you close to $1000, and you can then buy better lenses.  One of the funniest things I see when working is I will be standing there with my F5 and my 80-200 AF-S, and someone will come up to me with an F5 and a tamron 28-200 lens on it and want to talk shop, and he has no clue what an f-stop is. Seriously, save your money, don’t spend it just because you have it.  You will be buying features you will NEVER use! Mike

Response:

Hey greg, If you are going to recommend the N90s then why not the N80?  Wouldn’t it be more for the money for someone shopping around for the N90s?

Following this line of logic, I suggest an N65 or a used EM. — Tony Polson

Response:

…or a $15 used Nikon L35AF.  The AF is certainly fast enough. ;^)

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Hey greg, If you are going to recommend the N90s then why not the N80? Wouldn’t it be more for the money for someone shopping around for the N90s? Following this line of logic, I suggest an N65 or a used EM. — Tony Polson

Response:

Hey greg, If you are going to recommend the N90s then why not the N80?

I thought I read somewhere that the N80 is the only Nikon that can’t use the older lenses. If this is true IMO then that’s reason enough not to bother with one.

Response:

I am not upset. I just wanted to point out some thing you didn’t mention. No offense intended. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Relax, he didn’t say what he needed the camera to do.  He just asked if the F5 was worth the money.  You act like I insulted your mother — not your camera.  Jeez. The F5 has every feature available to a 35mm camera (as far as I know). You can do everything photographic with it.  The F100 has limitations. To me the F5 is cheaper than the F100 because of a few features it has over the F100.  The easily swappable focusing screens, mirror lock-up, interchangeable viewfinders, and 100% viewfinder are all virtually priceless features.  I believe the F100 lacks DOF preview though I cannot be sure at the moment.  Personally I would think Nikon could include at least a few of these features considering how expensive the F100 is.  If you can cough up enough for the F100 then keep coughing until you get the F5 in your hands. There are two advantages to the F100, weight and price. If you need MLU, 100% viewfinder, etc go for the F5. If weight is an issue, the F100 is a great camera body. BTW the F100 has DOF preview.

– Tom Thackrey tom at creative-light.com www.creative-light.com —–= Posted via Newsfeeds.Com, Uncensored Usenet News =—– http://www.newsfeeds.com – The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! —–==  Over 80,000 Newsgroups – 16 Different Servers! =—–

Response:

I will probably be slammed by people thinking my reply is rude but here goes: If you have to ask this question you do not need an F5.  An F5 is a professional camera.  It is designed to withstand the rigors of pro use, and have the features we need when on location, regardless of the situation that comes up.  Buy the F100 or possibly the 90s.  Either of these cameras will save you close to $1000, and you can then buy better lenses.  One of the funniest things I see when working is I will be standing there with my F5 and my 80-200 AF-S, and someone will come up to me with an F5 and a tamron 28-200 lens on it and want to talk shop, and he has no clue what an f-stop is. Seriously, save your money, don’t spend it just because you have it.  You will be buying features you will NEVER use! Mike

Response:

I am planning to buy a new Nikon camra, question is if the F5 ist worth its money? The F100 is a cheaper and is it not as goog as the F5?

In some ways the F100 is better than the F5.  They are slightly different cameras, aimed at a slightly different market. The F5 is the latest development of the professional F range, starting with the 1959 Nikon F.  Like all its predecessors it has a 100% viewfinder, mirror lock up and easily interchangeable finders and focusing screens. The F100 is the latest development of the line that began with the F801 (N8008 in USA) and advanced through the F801s (N8008s), F90 (N90) and F90X (N90s) to the F100.  Whilst the F801 was aimed at amateurs, it was attractive to pros as a more compact body than its contemporary in the F range, the bulky and heavy F4, so it was perfectly logical to develop the camera into the pro tool the F100 is. The F100 has a 96% viewfinder, no mirror lock up and a limited range of focusing screens which are not very easy to change. The other differences are mainly in the metering; the F5 has RGB Matrix metering whereas the F100 has the most advanced version of Nikon’s 3D Matrix metering.  Both are state of the art metering systems, they are just different.  The F5 has the reputation of getting the exposure right all the time, and the F100 nearly all of the time, but I would hesitate to conclude that one is significantly better than the other. If you want a pro system SLR with easily interchangeable viewfinders and screens, or mirror lock up is essential to you, or RGB matrix metering attracts you, go for the F5.  If a lighter, more compact body (even with the MB-15 battery pack attached) attracts you, and mirror lock up is not absolutely vital, go for the F100. There is no wrong choice here; neither is "better".  Both are amongst the finest 35mm SLR cameras made; both are high quality rugged pro tools; both can help a good photographer produce outstanding results.   It’s a choice that many of us would like to have.  Good luck! — Tony Polson

Response:

Let’s take an F5 and make it run at 4.5 fps instead of 8.  Then let’s get rid of the interchangeable prism and make it a fixed prism.  Take away MLU and the color matrix meter, and you should be left with a camera that’s about $700+ cheaper.  Sounds like an F100?  Keep DOF in all modes however and add red color to hilite the area being focused on and the F100 seems quite reasonable. — Wes Jansen Feather Foto LaConner, WA

Personally I would think Nikon could – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – include at least a few of these features considering how expensive the F100 is.

Response:

Relax, he didn’t say what he needed the camera to do.  He just asked if the F5 was worth the money.  You act like I insulted your mother — not your camera.  Jeez.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – The F5 has every feature available to a 35mm camera (as far as I know). You can do everything photographic with it.  The F100 has limitations. To me the F5 is cheaper than the F100 because of a few features it has over the F100.  The easily swappable focusing screens, mirror lock-up, interchangeable viewfinders, and 100% viewfinder are all virtually priceless features.  I believe the F100 lacks DOF preview though I cannot be sure at the moment.  Personally I would think Nikon could include at least a few of these features considering how expensive the F100 is.  If you can cough up enough for the F100 then keep coughing until you get the F5 in your hands. There are two advantages to the F100, weight and price. If you need MLU, 100% viewfinder, etc go for the F5. If weight is an issue, the F100 is a great camera body. BTW the F100 has DOF preview. — Tom Thackrey tom at creative-light.com www.creative-light.com —–= Posted via Newsfeeds.Com, Uncensored Usenet News =—– http://www.newsfeeds.com – The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! —–==  Over 80,000 Newsgroups – 16 Different Servers! =—–

Response:

Tom There are two advantages to the F100, weight and price. Three, actually: The F100 can be set to focus on the closest of the five autofocus sensors, and the F5 cannot — you have to select a sensor by hand. —

Response:

If you don’t need the AF speed then the Nikon F4 is a really great buy. The Nikon F3 or F2 with a handheld spot-meter would be a good buy too.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – The F5 has every feature available to a 35mm camera (as far as I know). You can do everything photographic with it.  The F100 has limitations. To me the F5 is cheaper than the F100 because of a few features it has over the F100.  The easily swappable focusing screens, mirror lock-up, interchangeable viewfinders, and 100% viewfinder are all virtually priceless features.  I believe the F100 lacks DOF preview though I cannot be sure at the moment.  Personally I would think Nikon could include at least a few of these features considering how expensive the F100 is.  If you can cough up enough for the F100 then keep coughing until you get the F5 in your hands. Regards, dat I am planning to buy a new Nikon camra, question is if the F5 ist worth its money? The F100 is a cheaper and is it not as goog as the F5? Ren

Question:

OH NO  don’t ask the boner to whup it out. —  Don Thompson Another of the Thompson Boys

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – You might ask one our regulars to show you his "maps". TL MC — "Where fishing is concerned, most anglers are basically manic excessives" http://www.mikeconnor.de

Response:

I here the Brown Trout are good there. Especially in the river when the treatment plants overflow. It must suck living in Ohio!

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Hi –    I worked in Utah for about 8 months last year, and got interested/started in fly fishing – then I got transferred to Cincinnati…  So now that I’m in Ohio – any suggestions as to where I should go to fly fish?  Not a lot of mountain strams around here…    Thanks!      Brian

Response:

Look I’m really sorry, but the law is the law….no trailer trash allowed. You can however visit for no more than a two weeks period…. john

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<Seemingly excellent advice snipped look for a book, ’smallmouth strategies for the fly rod’ by will ryan……a good place to start. get a gazetteer with county maps….get a kayak…

You might ask one our regulars to show you his "maps". TL MC — "Where fishing is concerned, most anglers are basically manic excessives" http://www.mikeconnor.de

Response:

Mouse imitations. —  Don Thompson

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I love bass too, John.  But I’m new to fly fishing.  What type of flies do you use for smallmouth?     Brian

Response:

yes, and popper and muddlers but, my all time favorite is wooly buggers. tied in various colors, white , yellow purple etc.  Now you would use a cone head wooly.  Soon, a bead head….during the spring feed and spawn  a wooly with no weight.  then a bead head, going to a cone head in the hot summer. Tie them with an upturned barb so you can fish over the bottom and over brush. I like them with a little flashabou in them and my favorite is a brown and dark red and dirty rusty red and  dark green color to imitate crayfish. Or any mixture of those colors… Any place you can get in the water on the Miami is good, any of the ohio tributaries…Brush Creek…little Miami…Scioto, Hocking , Ceasars creek…. basically, if it flows all year and doesn’t freeze solid in the winter it has smallmouth… look for a book, ’smallmouth strategies for the fly rod’ by will ryan……a good place to start. get a gazetteer with county maps….get a kayak… john

Response:

Lake Ere steelhead. Smallmouth bass in all state waters..walleye, saugeye….white bass runs….we even have a couple of trout streams,,,,but I don’t bother with them very much unless I am jonesin’ real bad.  smallmouth rules in Ohio. john……Dayton

Response:

I love bass too, John.  But I’m new to fly fishing.  What type of flies do you use for smallmouth?     Brian – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Lake Ere steelhead. Smallmouth bass in all state waters..walleye, saugeye….white bass runs….we even have a couple of trout streams,,,,but I don’t bother with them very much unless I am jonesin’ real bad.  smallmouth rules in Ohio. john……Dayton

Response:

Thank’s, Harry – a much more useful suggestion

than Idaho or Michigan (are those suburbs of Cincinnati or something?)…  

I *think* Idaho is a small town in KY (either that or a woman’s name and profession) but Michiscum (also known as "Meatchicken") is up north somewhere.  <g

Response:

Hi –    I worked in Utah for about 8 months last year, and got interested/started in fly fishing – then I got transferred to Cincinnati…  So now that I’m in Ohio – any suggestions as to where I should go to fly fish?  Not a lot of mountain strams around here…    Thanks!      Brian

Response:

Hi –    I worked in Utah for about 8 months last year, and got interested/started in fly fishing – then I got transferred to Cincinnati…  So now that I’m in Ohio – any suggestions as to where I should go to fly fish?  Not a lot of mountain strams around here…    Thanks!      Brian

If you want mountain streams go to Montana, but stop short of Idaho, please. Seriously, I’ve read that there are pretty decent runs of "landlocked rainbow trout", aka "faux steelhead", in Ohio, in the streams that feed Lake Erie. — visit my web site: http://home.earthlink.net/~royalwulff/

Response:

Hi –    I worked in Utah for about 8 months last year, and got interested/started in fly fishing – then I got transferred to Cincinnati…  So now that I’m in Ohio – any suggestions as to where I should go to fly fish?  Not a lot of mountain strams around here…    Thanks!      Brian

Try Michigan…

Response:

Brian writes: So now that I’m in Ohio – any suggestions as to where I should go to fly fish?

Take a look at – http://www.flyshop.com/Centers/Midwest/7-98Mad/index.html

Response:

Thank’s, Harry – a much more useful suggestion than Idaho or Michigan (are those suburbs of Cincinnati or something?)…    Brian – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Brian writes: So now that I’m in Ohio – any suggestions as to where I should go to fly fish? Take a look at – http://www.flyshop.com/Centers/Midwest/7-98Mad/index.html

Response:

Question:

I am wondering what type of experiences people have had fishing smallmouth in the Quetico in early September.  We have a group who has gone on several spring trips thinking about a fall trip.  Several of us are fly fishermen, so in particular, I’m wondering if the fish use shallow areas this time of year or if they begin to go deep. Thanks Peter Jonas Iron Mountain, MI

Response:

I am wondering what type of experiences people have had fishing smallmouth in the Quetico in early September.  We have a group who has gone on several spring trips thinking about a fall trip.  Several of us are fly fishermen, so in particular, I’m wondering if the fish use shallow areas this time of year or if they begin to go deep.

        They are still deep in early Sept. Don’t forget they don’t care about the air temp., they care about the water temp. And by the end of Aug. the water is as warm there as it gets. Mornings and evenings might still be okay though. But otherwise think late Sept., early Oct. tgb

Response:

Question:

I’m going to be in Nashville from this Friday the 12th untill the following Wendsday the 17th.  I am wondering if anyone knows some good fly fishing spots around the area where I can get a good days fishing in. Thanks in Advance, Ryan Nobrega

Response:

Hi Ryan, When you get there check with Cumberland Transit Fly Shop at 321-4069.

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Question:

I’ve had good success with both a wicker creel (with moss or damp grass) and an ‘ArtiCreel’ (soaked canvas bag). The canvas bag is easier to carry around and probably doesn’t look as pretentious as the wicker so it is probably safer to use<g. Charlie…

Response:

I’ve had good success with both a wicker creel (with moss or damp grass) and an ‘ArtiCreel’ (soaked canvas bag). The canvas bag is easier to carry around and probably doesn’t look as pretentious as the wicker so it is probably safer to use<g. Charlie…

It’s really a bummer that the ff industry (ok, Orvis) has made something like a wicker creel pretentious. I always fished with an old wicker creel my grandpa gave me when I was a lad, and would like to use one on any occasional trips I might want to take a couple, but I would feel like a fool carrying one these days. I should be able to say "screw it, I like ‘em, I grew up with ‘em, and I’m using one," but I guess I would hate to give people the wrong idea. Fish on, Allen

Response:

Ralph Heidecke writes: When I kill a fish or two to take home I do the following to keep it fresh: (snip) Share other tips you have please!

To me, a canvas creel is indispensible.  Any fish you decide to eat are kept fresh and cool.  Great beer keeper also, as George mentioned earlier.  When you’re not using it for either, it’s a convenient place to stow litter left by others.   Best of all, the sight of a well-used creel over your shoulder keeps away those pesky Orvis Grand Cherokee types, who refer to all the insects by their Latin names.  ;^) CQ

Response:

I should be able to say "screw it, I like ‘em, I grew up with ‘em, and I’m using one," but I guess I would hate to give people the wrong idea.

Yeah, I know what you mean. I still use mine on occasion, depends where I am fishing and how much I care about people think that day<g. Course I usually carry a cloth diaper to use as a rag (they’re great for cleaning fly lines and cameras, etc) so I suppose some folks may think I’m wierd anyway. Charlie…

Response:

[rip !] I do no use stringers as in my experience trout kokanee etc will die with in a quarter hour or so thus there is little gained from their

Yeah, those kokes are sure prissy fish….pretty damned good smoked though. A metal clasp stringer, I feel, is not all that cruel, the fish seem pretty calm generally and an old brown trout will stay alive and fresh all day, catfish and other sturdy species could be released after all day on a stringer and survive.  Stringers are indeed best suited for lake use.  I have also caught and stringered brookies while backpacking that stay alive a long, long time. Whatcha do, see, is you go down, take one of the stringer, clean it and cut off its head.  Then you can insert a ‘weenie’ stick and roast them with salt and pepper…nothing is better in this world… — TimW Halfordian Golfer

Response:

It’s really a bummer that the ff industry (ok, Orvis) has made something like a wicker creel pretentious. I always fished with an old wicker creel my grandpa gave me when I was a lad, and would like to use one on any occasional trips I might want to take a couple, but I would feel like a fool carrying one these days.

Jeez, I sometimes lash a sawed-off, perforated gallon milk jug to my fannypack, and I’ve never felt dumb about it once…er…well, the point is, go ahead and use the things if you like ‘em.  I won’t laugh, and I have to wonder how many people *would* really care.  What if they did, anyway?   Dave DeLacey – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Fish on, Allen

Response:

Moe Skeeter writes: A metal clasp stringer, I feel, is not all that cruel, the fish seem pretty calm generally and an old brown trout will stay alive and fresh all day, catfish and other sturdy species could be released after all day on a stringer and survive.  Stringers are indeed best suited for lake use.  I have also caught and stringered brookies while backpacking that stay alive a long, long time.

That’s true, as long as you’re using it right. If you’re using a stringer to keep your catch fresh, forget the common method of stringing ‘em through the gills.  The fish will stay alive a lot longer if you string it through the thin part of the lower jaw (near the center). I don’t use a stringer anymore, but when I did, stringing the fish through the jaw worked much, much better.  A gill-strung trout usually dies so fast that you might as well knock it on the head in the first place.  (catfish, OTOH, are damn near unkillable, strung through the gills or not.) CQ

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – It’s really a bummer that the ff industry (ok, Orvis) has made something like a wicker creel pretentious. I always fished with an old wicker creel my grandpa gave me when I was a lad, and would like to use one on any occasional trips I might want to take a couple, but I would feel like a fool carrying one these days. Jeez, I sometimes lash a sawed-off, perforated gallon milk jug to my fannypack, and I’ve never felt dumb about it once…er…well, the point is, go ahead and use the things if you like ‘em.  I won’t laugh, and I have to wonder how many people *would* really care.  What if they did, anyway? Dave DeLacey

Yeah, like I said in the clipped part of my original post, I know it’s a bit stupid to give much thought to that. I wouldn’t be embarassed to be seen anywhere with the milk jug – at least the people I meet on the stream wouldn’t be trying to sell me mutual funds. I keep hoping that this whole fishing craze will die out by the time I’m an old man and I can strap on my wicker creel and fish alone… – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Fish on, Allen

Response:

When I kill a fish or two to take home I do the following to keep it fresh: 1) stream fishing; place the fish in a plastic bag and either    cache the fish either in the sand or gravel of the bank or

I store the fish in a wet burlap sack out of the sun and clean ASAP. 2) float tube or boat:

Never kept one from a float tube trip!  See below for boat. I do no use stringers as in my experience trout kokanee etc will die with in a quarter hour or so thus there is little gained from their use: Share other tips you have please!

We used a stringer only once or twice for Kokanee. Very poor!  Instead we opted for a cage with chain attached with a little door.  This tied off to one of the cleats at the rear of the boat and could be lifted out of the water to insert another fish.  A few die, but several survive unless badly injured.  This is the best we could come up with to keep them fresh. -Burton — L. Burton Hawley         2330 NW Hummingbird Corvallis, OR

Response:

When I kill a fish or two to take home I do the following to keep it fresh: 1) stream fishing; place the fish in a plastic bag and either    cache the fish either in the sand or gravel of the bank or    gather some grass etc and place the fish amongst this in my    pack. 2) float tube or boat:    in my tube I put the fish in a side pocket of the tube and keep    the fabric wet; evaporation will keep it cool and fresh    in a boat I do much the same; keep the fish out of the sun and keep     it wet; ie cover with a wet cloth; again evaporation will keep it    very cool I do no use stringers as in my experience trout kokanee etc will die with in a quarter hour or so thus there is little gained from their use: the deterioration of the flesh will actually be quicker even if the air is warmer than the water because the transfer of heat from water to fish is much easier than from water to air. In all cases evaporation uses heat hence keeping a fish out of water but moist to encourage evaporation will help keep the fish cool and  fresh. It is advisable to clean a fish as soon as possible; keep the fish out of direct sun and put the fish on ice or refridgerate as soon as possible. Share other tips you have please! Ralph H  

Response:

Question:

Need advice on where to look for  an inexpensive (<$100) 4 peice pack rod (preferably 9′ 6 wt)–used or new.  If anyone knows of a good

Look for glass rods with the Abu or Fenwick name — probably no longer sold new, but the old ones must be somewhere…. — |  Donald Phillipson, 4180 Boundary Road, Carlsbad Springs,  | |        Ontario, Canada, K0A 1K0, tel. 613 822 0734         |

Response:

Need advice on where to look for  an inexpensive (<$100) 4 peice pack rod (preferably 9′ 6 wt)–used or new.  If anyone knows of a good starting point would appreciate a tip!

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Need advice on where to look for  an inexpensive (<$100) 4 peice pack rod (preferably 9′ 6 wt)–used or new.  If anyone knows of a good starting point would appreciate a tip!

For the same money, you might be able to get a better quality rod by going to a two piece rod.  Put it in a schedule 40 PVC tube and use it for a walking stick.  It helps me a lot crossing streams and going up/ down steep inclines.  The thin wall PVC won’t hold up as well if you really put your weight on it (like when you need it most).   Rob

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: For the same money, you might be able to get a better quality rod by : going to a two piece rod.  Put it in a schedule 40 PVC tube and use it : for a walking stick.  It helps me a lot crossing streams and going up/ : down steep inclines.  The thin wall PVC won’t hold up as well if you : really put your weight on it (like when you need it most).   Rob, I also use two-piece rods hiking and backpacking.  I carry them in a sturdy PVC tube and use the tube as a walking stick.  If I ever fell right on top of it. . . well I think I would rather have the rod break than me (but I am not too sure). Schedule 40 PVC?  Hmmm.  I guess I will know what to ask for next time I acquire a PVC rod tube.  Thanks for the terminology. Cheers, Burnaby, BC

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Check and see if you can find a st. Croix dealer in canada. I bought two 4 pc.    pack

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Hi, If you are into building your own rod the River’s Edge in Bozeman, MT has Sage second blank (4 peice pack rods) for about $130.00.  If you think you might be interested you can call them at 406-586-5373. Good Luck Al Beatty BT’s Fly Fishing Products Bozeman, MT (catalog avail)

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Al, Thanks for the post.  I saw your message of Jan 4 regarding the River’s Edge and the sage seconds.  We live in Chicago and have a tough time finding a source for seconds, especially travel rods at this price! Bryan and company at rivers edge were quite helpful.  I just purchased two of the blanks and there in the mail now.

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St. Croix is available in Canada at a decent price.  Diawa makes a 4 – 5 wt. that fishs very well.  Pack rods at low prices can be hard to find.  Good luck. Peter – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Check and see if you can find a st. Croix dealer in canada. I bought two 4 pc.    pack

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Check the Cabela’s 1996 Spring catalog.  They’re listing a 4pc. pack rod blank (9′/6wt I think) for less than $50.  They list it as an import, but who knows.

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I looking for an moderately priced pack rod, and have found a Cabela’s Fish Eagle 8′ 4wt. for #116.  Anybody out there have any opinions about the rod?

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I really like the St. Croix Imperial, 8′ for 4/5 in a 4 piece … rod holder included for around $125. Also it has a lifetime guarantee … I like the intermediate action so much that I am fishing it almost as my #1 rod. bob vorel

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Quit bothering other posters! LIVE & LET LIVE CONEHEAD!

Now, you really fit the wierdo category. Will has been a good source of information, with his extensive RVing experience. What are your experiences ???? Anthony & Loretta                    "Don’t regret getting older Retired in Largo, Florida             many are denied the privilege"

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Quit bothering other posters! LIVE & LET LIVE CONEHEAD!

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: Quit bothering other posters! : LIVE & LET LIVE CONEHEAD!  I have to agree with this also. He also gave me some crap via  E-mail.  Ike Grill  Cadott,WI

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I don’t know.  Will is certainly opinionated, but at least he will take a stand.  I don’t always agree with him, he sort of flamed me once for answering someone’s question on a subject not related to rving, but everything must be taken in context.  On the flyfishing newsgroup, we had an individual by the name of Tim Walker who said such rediculous things that would Will seem tame.  One day he got tired of being flamed and just disappeared.  Again, I usually didn’t agree with him, but he sure knew how to start and maintain a discussion. Will, don’t let em get you down. Jim Browder

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– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Quit bothering other posters! LIVE & LET LIVE CONEHEAD! Now, you really fit the wierdo category. Will has been a good source of information, with his extensive RVing experience. What are your experiences ???? Anthony & Loretta                    "Don’t regret getting older Retired in Largo, Florida             many are denied the privilege"

I second that and Amen. If you have something to contribute, do so! Otherwise, BUTT OUT and get a life Toni!! Dan

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Article yesterday in Wash. Post said: Use chum, Use a fly that looks like chum (brown, about the size of a ping-pong ball) Go for it. Interesting article. — John Novotny        Witty and insightful comments deleted in deference to                         world peace.

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I live in Monmouth county N.J. and fish exclusively for striped bass on the fly rod.  If there is anyone out there with similar interest, respond!  I am always current on the latest info ( at least I think I am).  Anyone with tips, hot fishing, or just to BS about one of the best fishing quests one can undertake, respond.                   Tim Surgent —-

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Hello Dcoop,    I’ve been flyfishing for only a few years now here in NY state. I live in Rensselaer near Albany, NY and don’t get to as much fishing as I would like to, but I do fish the adirondacks once in a while. I do have some friends though that fish it quite a bit up on the Ausable and Scroon rivers. What would you like to know? Maybe I can help. Email me at – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text –  I writing this article to see if there is anyone on the web who flyfishes the Adirondacks. I’m looking to chat about fly hatches and fishing conditions in the great northeast. Thanks’ Dcoop

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  I writing this article to see if there is anyone on the web who flyfishes the Adirondacks. I’m looking to chat about fly hatches and fishing conditions in the great northeast. Thanks’ Dcoop

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Hey, how ’bout some content in this post? You sparked my interest!

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Hey, how ’bout some content in this post? You sparked my interest!

This item sparked my interest too, so I’ll start.   I recently tried a new product for saltwater tying.  It’s colored hot glue (pink, orange, amber, green and many others available) for tying Mother of Epoxy (Glue) type bonefish and permit flies.  It is really easy to use this stuff.  Just add bead chain eyes to a saltwater hook.  Drop on a wad of hot glue, dip in water for 3-5 seconds, and it’s cool enough to mold with your hands.  If you don’t like the way the head turned out, you can dip it in very hot water and remold.   This colored hot glue is available at the craft store for aboout a tenth of the price of the fly shop (as are doll eyes and lots of other good stuff for saltwater flies). I recently went to Belize and a hot glue fly (regular tan glue) with a tuft of tan bucktail was red hot for bonefish. John Woodling Sacramento, CA

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Hey John , great post last month’s saltwater fly mag had a guy making these molds and cranking out some gorgeous deceivers…. 1. did you use a mold yourself? 2. Can you share the Namebrand and bottle size of the    stuff you are using? 3. what size hooks are you using 1/0-3/0?? 4. what do you use for Sacramento stripers? – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -thanks?

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last month’s saltwater fly mag had a guy making these molds and cranking out some gorgeous deceivers…. 1. did you use a mold yourself?

That’s the beauty of hot glue, you don’t need a mold, you just mold it with your fingers.   For deceiver heads, I use epoxy.  It dries a lot clearer and harder.  You don’t need a mold, but you do need a slow rpm motor to turn these after you apply the epoxy (5 minutes) until it hardens. 2. Can you share the Namebrand and bottle size of the

   stuff you are using? I don’t recall the brand name, but they are standard size glue sticks. The fly shop also has a glue gun, and like everything else in a fly shop, it costs twice what the same thing costs in the hardware store. 3. what size hooks are you using 1/0-3/0??

For mother of glue flies for bonefish I use 4’s and 6’s 4. what do you use for Sacramento stripers?

I haven’t fished for them, but a lot of the Dan Blanton patterns are probably good. <<   John K. Woodling   < Sacramento, CA

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writes: 4. what do you use for Sacramento stripers? I haven’t fished for them, but a lot of the Dan Blanton patterns are probably good. <<   John K. Woodling   <

I’v had good luck with chartreuse patterns for clear water (like surf or fast moving tidal rivers) and yellow patterns for muddy water (like back bays). I noticed that blue and white also works in either environment, but I was using clousers, not deceivers. HighHooks-n-TightLines,       Jose

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Quoting jwoodling1 from a message in rec.outdoors.fishing.fly     2. Can you share the Namebrand and bottle size of the     stuff you are using?     I don’t recall the brand name, but they are standard size glue sticks.     The fly shop also has a glue gun, and like everything else in a fly    shop, it costs twice what the same thing costs in the hardware store. This sounded like a great idea so I stopped by the arts & crafts store on the way home.  I picked up a low temp glue gun for $3.29 and a pack of 49 glue sticks in a variety of colors for $4.49.  Will give it a try this weekend. Jim in Southern California

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This sounded like a great idea so I stopped by the arts & crafts store on the way home.  I picked up a low temp glue gun for $3.29 and a pack of 49 glue sticks in a variety of colors for $4.49.  Will give it a try this weekend. Jim in Southern California

I wrote a short piece for American Angler back in 1986 or so, about using hot glue guns for fly tying. I still use them occasionally, for big flies (like some salt water flies). But there are drawbacks. The faster the hot glue hardens (higher melting temps) the stronger the glue is, and the harder it is to use, becuase the stuff sets up so fast. Low temperature glues are easier to work with, but the damn flies melt right in you fly box on a hot day. The only practicle solution is to use high temp glues, and learn how to work very fast.   Good hardware stores (the ones that cater to tradesmen) carry a variety of hot glue sticks, with faster and slower, hotter and cooler melting temperatures. Steer clear of "clear-colored" sticks. Clear hot glue sticks were developed for florists, for obvious reasons, but clear hot glue sticks have the lowest bonding strength. —

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: Quoting jwoodling1 from a message in rec.outdoors.fishing.fly :     2. Can you share the Namebrand and bottle size of the :     stuff you are using? :     I don’t recall the brand name, but they are standard size glue sticks. :     The fly shop also has a glue gun, and like everything else in a fly :    shop, it costs twice what the same thing costs in the hardware store. : This sounded like a great idea so I stopped by the arts & crafts store on the : way home.  I picked up a low temp glue gun for $3.29 and a pack of 49 glue : sticks in a variety of colors for $4.49.  Will give it a try this weekend. So did I.   Bryan : Jim in Southern California

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