Question:

Hello Ken, This is something I’ve been doing quite a bit in the last couple of years. I’m certainly no expert, but here are a few thoughts.. For tackle I recommend a fairly stiff 8 weight rod with a Lamson reel.  You can get away with Pfleuger or a Scientific Angler but they’ll require more care and aren’t as smooth.  Use 20 lb. dacron backing.  Nothing your going to hook is going to run that far.  Even a big red usually stays within 100 yds of where he was hooked so you don’t need Bonefish gear. This rig will handle bass, redfish, speckled trout and the occasional flounder.  You’ll have to deal with wind.  Just the way it goes.  Try the Scientific Anglers Mastery series Wind Cheater line.  Helps a bit.  I also use a slow sinking line a lot and it’s a bit easier to cast into the wind.  I’d go with the Wind Cheater to start with.  Takes some of the edge off of being a beginner. The single most effective lure for me is a chartreuse/white Clouser minnow. Works on Reds and Specks under most circumstances.  Later you can go with some crab patterns for Reds and some Seaducers and Leftys Deceivers for Specks. Don’t discount Crazy Charlies either.. great under the lights for Specks. There are other patterns.. Roadkills, different shrimp imitations, but if you head out with half-a-dozen Clousers and a couple or lighter streamers, you’ll handle most of what you encounter. Is this what you wanted to know? Andy Schreckenghost Houston TX – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I am new to fly fishing and in need of information for fishing in the coastal bend.  For instance reel and rod recommendations.  I hear that the wind is a consideration when fishing in the bay. I would appreciate any information. Thank you, Ken Clay

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I am new to fly fishing and in need of information for fishing in the coastal bend.  For instance reel and rod recommendations.  I hear that the wind is a consideration when fishing in the bay. I would appreciate any information. Thank you, Ken Clay

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Question:

Anyone have any recent info on water and hatch conditions on the Bighorn river below Yellowtail dam? Thanks, Don

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Anyone have any recent info on water and hatch conditions on the Bighorn river below Yellowtail dam? Thanks, Don

Hi Don The water is high but fishing is good on subsurface patterns.  I’m not sure about the hatches.   Tight Lines Al Beatty BT’s Fly Fishing Products Bozeman, MT (96 catalog)

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There is a fair amount of info on the Bighorn, including current conditions, on Fly Fishing Adventures (http://www.ffa.com/). Check it out! Also, Bob Krumm lives in Ft. Smith and has guided the Bighorn for 12 years; contact him at (406) 666-2229; or call Bighorn Angler at (406) 666-2233. Larry Krum Editor, The Daily Hatch

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Question:

I’m getting back into flyfishing after several years and i need a new rod/reel/line outfit.  I’ve seen several nice ones around but can’t really decide which weight i should go for.  I’m considering a #6 or #7 weight rod – but i haven’t ruled out a #5 or #8 weight either.  I fish mostly for trout and panfish, w/ a few occasional largemouth and smallmouth bass and small pickerel.  I would like an outfit w/ as much versitility as possible for small to medium-sized fish.  Any help would be greatly appreciated.  Thanx.                                                -Zimmy

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I’m primarily a warmwater ff and have always used an 8 wt.  Recently I picked up a 6 wt. fast action rod and have really enjoyed it for bass and panfish.  I think that the faster action allows it to cast larger flies well, yet, it is still fun with small 12" bass. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I’m getting back into flyfishing after several years and i need a new rod/reel/line outfit.  I’ve seen several nice ones around but can’t really decide which weight i should go for.  I’m considering a #6 or #7 weight rod – but i haven’t ruled out a #5 or #8 weight either.  I fish mostly for trout and panfish, w/ a few occasional largemouth and smallmouth bass and small pickerel. I would like an outfit w/ as much versitility as possible for small to medium-sized fish.  Any help would be greatly appreciated.  Thanx.                                               -Zimmy

Response:

I’m getting back into flyfishing after several years and i need a new rod/reel/line outfit.  I’ve seen several nice ones around but can’t really decide which weight i should go for.  I’m considering a #6 or #7 weight rod – but i haven’t ruled out a #5 or #8 weight either.  I fish mostly for trout and panfish, w/ a few occasional largemouth and smallmouth bass and small pickerel.  I would like an outfit w/ as much versitility as possible for small to medium-sized fish.  Any help would be greatly appreciated.  Thanx.

Be guided by fly size.  If your typical day was spent using only flies #16 and smaller you would want a 5 weight outfit (or 6 or 4).  If the typical day was spent casting one-inch poppers or streamers for bass you’d want a 7 weight or 8.  You can cast bigger flies on a lighter outfit, and you can cast smaller than #16s on a 7 weight or heavier outfit, but you would probably not enjoy it after an hour or so. — |  Donald Phillipson, 4180 Boundary Road, Carlsbad Springs,  | |        Ontario, Canada, K0A 1K0, tel. 613 822 0734         |

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I use a Sage 5wt overlined with 6wt line.  It is a tip-flex rod and it has a very fast action which does a good job casting flies as small as size 12 dries to 1/0 deer hair poppers.  It has enough backbone to fight big largemouths and is sensitive enough to make moderate sized panfish a blast to catch.  No, it’s not the perfect rod for every situation, but as an all-around warm-water rod, I couldn’t want for much more.  I still would like a 2 or 3wt for small panfish and a 9wt for saltwater. HTH, Clark – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I’m getting back into flyfishing after several years and i need a new rod/reel/line outfit.  I’ve seen several nice ones around but can’t really decide which weight i should go for.  I’m considering a #6 or #7 weight rod – but i haven’t ruled out a #5 or #8 weight either.  I fish mostly for trout and panfish, w/ a few occasional largemouth and smallmouth bass and small pickerel. I would like an outfit w/ as much versitility as possible for small to medium-sized fish.  Any help would be greatly appreciated.  Thanx.                                               -Zimmy

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(Donald Phillipson) writes:

*SNIP* I fish mostly for trout and panfish, w/ a few occasional largemouth and smallmouth bass and small pickerel.  I would like an outfit w/ as much versitility as possible for small to medium-sized fish.  Any help would be greatly appreciated.  Thanx. Be guided by fly size.  If your typical day was spent using only flies #16 and smaller you would want a 5 weight outfit (or 6 or 4).  If the typical day was spent casting one-inch poppers or streamers for bass you’d want a 7 weight or 8.  You can cast bigger flies on a lighter outfit, and you can cast smaller than #16s on a 7 weight or heavier outfit, but you would probably not enjoy it after an hour or so.

Don’s advice is right on the money.  Presuming you use a forearm-based casting stroke, sounds like a fast action 6wt. (such as the Orvis TL 906 – Silver Label or Trident version) would do the trick.  If you expect to through lots of #2 deer hair bugs, go ahead and stick a 7wt. line on that fast action 6.  The rod will handle it just fine and the 7wt. line pulls big bugs through the air better than the 6.  If you didn’t need to throw the big bugs for largemouth bass, a 5 wt would do fine.  So, like Don says, let your fly size be your guide. I have a line-weight/fly size/quarry table (my personal opinions) set up on my web-site that you might want to glance at.  Go to "http://www.thegrid.net/flyfish/LineSpec.html" and click on the hyperlink to "Line Weight ‘Recommended Uses’ Chart".  You might find it useful in making your decision.                                        Good Fishing,                                             Dan Dan Gracia Orvis West Coast Fly Fishing Schools Mt. Shasta Fly Fishing Schools http://www.thegrid.net/flyfish

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I have a pfluger summit 6W and I use it for every kind of fish, from 15 inch trout to 20 pound red salmon on the keni river. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I’m getting back into flyfishing after several years and i need a new rod/reel/line outfit.  I’ve seen several nice ones around but can’t really decide which weight i should go for.  I’m considering a #6 or #7 weight rod – but i haven’t ruled out a #5 or #8 weight either.  I fish mostly for trout and panfish, w/ a few occasional largemouth and smallmouth bass and small pickerel.  I would like an outfit w/ as much versitility as possible for small to medium-sized fish.  Any help would be greatly appreciated.  Thanx.                                                -Zimmy

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If you are just getting back into flyfishing and you fished with lower modulus graphite or even fiberglass in the past, be very careful with the new tip flex type rods that some have recommended.  A 5 weight is a good all around rod, and as one wrote, 6 wt line will help the rod load better with larger flies.  I would consider a good mid flex or even a powerful full flex rod to get back in the swing of things.  Either way, make sure you cast it first.  Any good dealer will insist you cast it prior to buying it.  Good luck. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I’m getting back into flyfishing after several years and i need a new rod/reel/line outfit.  I’ve seen several nice ones around but can’t really decide which weight i should go for.  I’m considering a #6 or #7 weight rod – but i haven’t ruled out a #5 or #8 weight either.  I fish mostly for trout and panfish, w/ a few occasional largemouth and smallmouth bass and small pickerel. I would like an outfit w/ as much versitility as possible for small to medium-sized fish.  Any help would be greatly appreciated.  Thanx.                                               -Zimmy

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Question:

Well, I spent about 4 years there and I found a plain small bright neon green plastic worm drove the small mouths wild. — Eric From the Grand Canyon State. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I am going to Star Lake in the Adirondacks later this June.  Also will visit nearby Cranberry Lake.  Both are in the northeast corner of the Adirondacks.  I am told the most common catches are smallmouth bass and trout, with occasional rock bass as consolation. Any advice for these lakes?  How about nearly streams?  We will be both fly fishing and spinning.  What kinds of flies, lures, or live baits? Techniques? Many thanks! Michael

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I am going to Star Lake in the Adirondacks later this June.  Also will visit nearby Cranberry Lake.  Both are in the northeast corner of the Adirondacks.  I am told the most common catches are smallmouth bass and trout, with occasional rock bass as consolation. Any advice for these lakes?  How about nearly streams?  We will be both fly fishing and spinning.  What kinds of flies, lures, or live baits? Techniques? Many thanks! Michael

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Most of my fishing is done in the Adirondacks. I have a web site with lots of advice regarding lure selection. Check it out. Email me if you have any questions (remove the nospam in the address) Matthew Carter "Fishing with Matt" http://www.albany.net/~buzzbait/fishing/index.htm

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Question:

My advise is, don’t fish it at all.  I’m still trying to get over a

leanard that I broke on an 8 inch stocked trout.  I did not hear a snap, nor felt a twang in the rod handle.  All of a sudden a foot of the tip section was slididng down the flyline.<BR Chances are your rod had a weak tip, a hook ding, or some other problem that finaly caused the tip to break.  One thing that will break any rod is putting too much of an arc on the tip when landing a fish – any fish.  And wiggling them around in your living room is a sure fire way to run into a wall or door with one and break the tip too. Graphite is hollow – most cane rods are solid (there are some hollow built cane rods out there) and cane is much stronger than you would think.  Lee Wulff landed many a salmon on a 6 foot cane rod.  They were once used for saltwater fsishing – and there are a good many cane spey rods in use today.  Tournament casters used Cane rods.  I’m sorry, but I have to disagree with you.  Cane rods are made for fishing. Al Manchester, NH

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Daylight Time – I have just bought one. Can anyone out there give me any tips on fishing the

thing?<< First – slow down your casting stroke.  It may take some getting used to, but if you learn to let the rod do the work for you, you will have a much better time of it. Never twist the ferrules when putting the rod together as you do with graphite.  Remember this little mantra for assembling and disasembling your rod:  Rod Together Hands Together – Rod Apart Hands Apart.  Push and pull – never twist. When fighting a heavy fish, try to turn the rod upside down for a bit of the fight.  A large fish can put a set in a cane rod – it’s rare but it can happen. Depending on the line weight of the rod, be careful throwing very heavy flies – weighted nymphs, wolly buggers – you get the idea.  My 6 weights will handle then quite well, but they put a strain on the 5 weights and below – especially those that are designated as Dry Fly actions with selicate tips.  It is a good way to break a tip. Always wipe the rod down after you finish using it and do let it dry for a day or so after fishing.  Never lean it against a wall or tree as this could cause a set too. Lastly – just fish the thing.  I have cane rods that were made in the 1930’s that still fish very well.  If a mishap should happen there are enough very good rod builders and restorers out there that getting it fixed will not be a big deal, and the price will be reasonable too. I fish cane rods almost exclusively now – and not the Paynes and Lenords – but Grangers and Heddons and South Bends – and dare i say it here – Orvis’s  - reasonably priced rods that still preform as well today as they did when they were made.  I enjoy the casting and the feel of a fish on cane.  Something that can not be duplicated in graphite – even in a Winston or T&T which are about as close to cane as you will get in graphite.  (when it comes to stripers you would have a hard time getting my PM10, Loomis or Sage away from me though – 8 9 10 wts) You are not going to throw 90 feet of line into a stiff breeze with most cane rods – but there is a magic in fishing them that can only be experianced.  Try it – you might just like it. Al Manchester NH

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You can tie right off to the top with a couple of overhand knots and a hank of line just a couple feet longer than the rod.  I like the little cork floats with the toothpicks.  Slide one of them up about 3 feet and set it. Don’t bother with snelled hooks, too expensive.  Just get a box of regular old bait hooks.   Add one (or none) small split shot about 8 inches above the hook.   Impale a shiner through the lips and holding your cane rod in one hand and the fish in the other sorta ’shwiang’ it on out there by a stump or pier foorting or the fender of that old Buick sunk out there and just pay real close attention to the cork.   When it goes under, give a sharp pull up and sorta ’shwiang’ the bluegill or perch or catfish right up on the bank.  When are ya goin’,  I’ll bring the hooch…. — TimW Halfordian Golfer

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Can anyone out there give me any tips on fishing the thing?

Sorry I forgot to sign my post Love&peace Mick Hendry

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Cane rods are for wiggling in your living room, PERIOD.

Thanks Pete I needed that , what line would you recommend for a 7 1/2 foot, no 6 1/2 foot rod  :( mick

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My advise is, don’t fish it at all.  I’m still trying to get over a leanard that I broke on an 8 inch stocked trout.  I did not hear a snap, nor felt a twang in the rod handle.  All of a sudden a foot of the tip section was slididng down the flyline. Cane rods are for wiggling in your living room, PERIOD.

Get real, people have been fishing these things since the turn of the century, they didn’t suddenly become fragile and useless when graphite was invented. I just spent 2.5 days fishing heavy nymphs and split shot on my 8.5′ Granger without any problems and lord knows there’s enough people out there who are fishing their cane rods fulltime for years and years without a problem. As for advice for the original poster, just remember to let your rod dry out — you can put it back in the case for the trip home but it’s usually a good idea to let the bag and rod dry for a day or two.  If you do encounter problems they’re usually related to the ferrules — just remember not to twist the rod when you’re seating the ferrules. And avoid those car doors… Good luck! TC

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having read the recent arguments about John Gierach over the recent months I read "Trout Bum" and enjoyed the idea of fishing cane rods so I have just bought one. Can anyone out there give me any tips on fishing the thing? Tips on playing,landing etc and how to care for the rod. I know I must keep it away  from the porcupines but there are not many up here in Yorkshire

Response:

My advise is, don’t fish it at all.  I’m still trying to get over a leanard that I broke on an 8 inch stocked trout.  I did not hear a snap, nor felt a twang in the rod handle.  All of a sudden a foot of the tip section was slididng down the flyline. Cane rods are for wiggling in your living room, PERIOD. Pete C

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Question:

These references to the periodic cicada have me excited for the next time I stumble on the emergence of a cicada "brood".  There are two types of periodic cicadas (as opposed to the few annual cicadas that emerge each year), the 17 year and the 13 year cicadas.  I encountered one of them in 1991 in central PA.  An extraordinary number of cicadas filled the stream valley in late may.  The zip zip sound of the few annual cicadas in the back yard was replaced by a constant whirrring sound as literally millions emerged.  Those that fell onto the water dissapeared in a swirl as the largest of the trout (those only brought to the surface by the Green Drakes) sucked them under with no problem.  Our hearts pounded as we tried our largest floating flies to attract them.  In the end our imitations were not good enough, but my new spun deer hair bodied flies with red squirrel tail wings will always be somewhere in my fly box – just in case….   As for emergence throughout the Eastern U.S., I believe that each individual brood (covering some limited geography) has its own cycle.  My fishing buddy and I are in the process of writing to Penn State University to learn whether a brood chart is available for PA. Jeff Shafer – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text –   An article in today’s paper discusses the imminent hatch in the Eastern   U.S. of billions of cicadas in their 17 year cycle. They are huge, winged   insects and I was wondering if anyone could shed some light on what it   was like during the last hatch in ‘79 ? Any suggested strategies or fly   patterns we can use ? Do the trout readily take them ?  They do have a tendency to fall in the water.  I’ve seen trout take them on  the Gunpowder but you could probably count on catfish, bass, and just about  anything big enough to eat them taking one.  A large unweighted muddler should  have a passable contour and when properly presented should make the necessary  ’plopping’ sound to initiate a strike.  It make take a few days for the fish  to realize that the cicadas are food since they are big enough to scare off the  less aggressive fish.    –      David J. Ebinger                     330-453-5180      Ebinger Equipment Co.                Fax 453-7113      http://www.bright.net/~ebco/

Response:

writes: Spent the summer on Cape Cod in 79 and the Circadia hatch was wild. Dark brown beetle looking creatures if I remember. But hey it’s been a while. The hatch is incredible as it matures in about three days. They don’t stay around too long. About a week was the total duration. I’m sure the trout take them but for the short period ot time the hatch is around it’s not worth tying for.

No way! I was in Mashpee in 79 and the browns on Mashpee-Wakeby killed the Cicadas during the entire hatch and could be fooled long afterward. I ran the 4-H camp there and fished nearly every day. Smallmouth were especially suseptable to any large bodied fly during that hatch. Bill — Bill Fling                     Tel. (315) 298-3044 SALMON RIVER ANGLERS LODGE     FAX  (315) 298-2619 P.O. Box 353                   Rt. 13, Rome Road Pulaski, NY 13142-0353   ‘SALMON RIVER/LAKE ONTARIO SPORTFISHING REPORTS’             ‘http://www.salmon-river.com’

Response:

An article in today’s paper discusses the imminent hatch in the Eastern U.S. of billions of cicadas in their 17 year cycle. They are huge, winged insects and I was wondering if anyone could shed some light on what it was like during the last hatch in ‘79 ? Any suggested strategies or fly patterns we can use ? Do the trout readily take them ?

They do have a tendency to fall in the water.  I’ve seen trout take them on the Gunpowder but you could probably count on catfish, bass, and just about anything big enough to eat them taking one.  A large unweighted muddler should have a passable contour and when properly presented should make the necessary ‘plopping’ sound to initiate a strike.  It make take a few days for the fish to realize that the cicadas are food since they are big enough to scare off the less aggressive fish.   —     David J. Ebinger                     330-453-5180     Ebinger Equipment Co.                Fax 453-7113     http://www.bright.net/~ebco/

Response:

Spent the summer on Cape Cod in 79 and the Circadia hatch was wild. Dark brown beetle looking creatures if I remember. But hey it’s been a while. The hatch is incredible as it matures in about three days. They don’t stay around too long. About a week was the total duration. I’m sure the trout take them but for the short period ot time the hatch is around it’s not worth tying for.

Response:

An article in today’s paper discusses the imminent hatch in the Eastern   U.S. of billions of cicadas in their 17 year cycle. They are huge, winged insects and I was wondering if anyone could shed some light on what it was like during the last hatch in ‘79 ? Any suggested strategies or fly patterns we can use ? Do the trout readily take them ?

Response:

Question:

I pulled open a drawer where I keep all kinds of eyes for tying fishing flies.  As I was getting set to tie some bonefish flies, I realized that a lot of my bead chain had come out of any pouch that it had been in.  Some of the bead chain is old standard stuff, some is Stainless, which I’d like to use on my bonefish flies.   Anyone know of an easy way to tell which is the stainless eyes? (besides letting it sit in salt water for a few days/weeks) Weird question, but I would hope some metallurgist fly-fisherman might know the easy answer! TIA… Steve

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- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I pulled open a drawer where I keep all kinds of eyes for tying fishing flies.  As I was getting set to tie some bonefish flies, I realized that a lot of my bead chain had come out of any pouch that it had been in.  Some of the bead chain is old standard stuff, some is Stainless, which I’d like to use on my bonefish flies. Anyone know of an easy way to tell which is the stainless eyes? (besides letting it sit in salt water for a few days/weeks) Weird question, but I would hope some metallurgist fly-fisherman might know the easy answer! TIA… Steve

Hi Steve Using a magnet is a good starting point in that (in my experience) even the highest-quality stainless steel exhibits some magnetic properties. I have three kinds of bead chain; chrome plated mild steel, shiny stainless steel and chrome plated brass.  A magnet should enable you to tell these three apart, in that brass won’t be even faintly magnetic. Hope that helps  Russ

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Anyone know of an easy way to tell which is the stainless eyes? (besides letting it sit in salt water for a few days/weeks)

I believe that a magnet will not attract stainless steel. Dave

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In general the stainless will not be "ferromagnetic" and will, therefore, not be attracted to a magnet, unlike the steel bead, which will.  Although this is not always the case I would take about any odds that it will work, as ferritic stainless is rare….make that very rare. dave

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: I pulled open a drawer where I keep all kinds of eyes for tying : fishing flies.  As I was getting set to tie some bonefish flies, I : realized that a lot of my bead chain had come out of any pouch that it : had been in.  Some of the bead chain is old standard stuff, some is : Stainless, which I’d like to use on my bonefish flies.   : : Anyone know of an easy way to tell which is the stainless eyes? : (besides letting it sit in salt water for a few days/weeks) : : Weird question, but I would hope some metallurgist fly-fisherman might : know the easy answer! : : TIA… : : Steve Austenitic stainless steel will not attract a magnet.   Martensitic stainless steel *will* attract a magnet. So, one has to be careful.  Now, what you do have going for you is that austenitic stainless steel is the most corrosion resistant and thus might be the best choice for saltwater use.  However, martensitic is the type that can be the strongest.  As far as the other type of stainless, ferritic, I am not sure, but I think that also might attract a magnet.  As I said, one has to be careful. Good luck. Kind regards, Steve Kernosky Michigan Tech Univ.

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Stainless steel is generally not attracted to a magnet nearly as strongly as regular steel because of the increased content of other metals, i.e. nickel and others.  If you have a small magnet, you might try this until a *real* metal expert replies.  longspeer

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Anyone know of an easy way to tell which is the stainless eyes? (besides letting it sit in salt water for a few days/weeks) I believe that a magnet will not attract stainless steel.

Russel and Dave- You are both right on.  Thanks for the tip… Steve

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The technical stuff all sounds great – if you are trying to tell between Stainless and Mild Steel, the simple way is to make sure the item is clean (and not sharp) and taste it – stainless does not taste of anything, mild steel has a , well, metallic sort of taste. Dont hook yourself. hope it helps.

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snip Anyone know of an easy way to tell which is the stainless eyes? (besides letting it sit in salt water for a few days/weeks) Weird question, but I would hope some metallurgist fly-fisherman might know the easy answer! TIA… Steve

I believe that stainless steel is not a ferromagnetic material, and therefore will not be attracted to a magnet. — Brian Charles

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: : The technical stuff all sounds great – if you are trying to tell : between Stainless and Mild Steel, the simple way is to make sure the : item is clean (and not sharp) and taste it – stainless does not taste : of anything, mild steel has a , well, metallic sort of taste. : : Might look a little silly. : :   : Dont hook yourself. : : That would look even worse. Just try explaining *that* to the wife. : : -DLB I guess I’ve come into this thread late, but has anyone mentioned that stainless steels (cept 17-4 HT or 18-8 HT) has very low to none magnetic capability. To determint it quickly I use a strong magnet. Mild steel is easy determined this way. Bob — Bob San Jose, Ca

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Hi, try using a good magnet. The stainless steel will roll to the magnet quicker. Good uh ? fishing.

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– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – snip Anyone know of an easy way to tell which is the stainless eyes? (besides letting it sit in salt water for a few days/weeks) Weird question, but I would hope some metallurgist fly-fisherman might know the easy answer! TIA… Steve I believe that stainless steel is not a ferromagnetic material, and therefore will not be attracted to a magnet. — Brian Charles

No, some types of stainless steel (typically the 400 series, I believe) are at least slightly ferromagnetic, so a magnet is not an accurate way to determine whether or not the metal is stainless steel. Unfortunately, I don’t know of any easy, reliable way to distinguish stainless steel.  Usually one can tell by appearance:  stainless steel has a relatively dull, gray sheen compared to plated materials (eg. chrome or cadmium over steel), but brighter than aluminum or pot metal alloys.  It helps to have a practiced eye – as well as some examples of true stainless steel.  Surface texture is also a good clue:  with stainless, the machine tool marks may still be evident, whereas plating will typically smooth or fill these in.   -Wes Wes Neuenschwander Seattle, WA

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Question:

The biggest difference, IMHO, is that sea kayakers don’t need to worry as much about the current smashing their faces into rocks!!! Not always true.  My front teeth bear witness to that sad fact.  It’s been my experience that most often you’ll need a roll in a sea kayak nearer to shore where the waves are a lot different (less regular), and where rocks can lurk just under the surface to rearrange the faces of the less wary.

Well, that is why I said "as much".   But you’re probably right that nearshore is where you’re most likely to capsize, right where rocks are most hazardous.  Not only are the waves less regular, they’re also bigger and more likely to break in the shallow spots where the rocks lurk. — Bob Myers                              InteleNet Communications, Inc. Phone: 714/851-8250                    Irvine, CA 92714 Fax:   714/851-1088                    http://www.intelenet.net/

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I saw a good video several years ago put out by Perception when I was taking the ACA instructor class.  It shows a young lady sitting in her boat on the pool deck.  She puts the top of her head on the pool deck while keeping the boat upright…  It helps to have that kind of flexibility but it’s not required.  I’m sure you could get it from them. I have to agree  with the post by Chip Mefford.  In the sessions I’ve taught the technique he describes works best for most people.  There are basically 3 types of learners (get the ACA instructors man. for details on that) & you need to teach different people different ways.  I was able to teach my 110 lb. daughter to roll an open canoe (72 lb. outfitted) in about two hours so it’s technique not muscle. Dave Stockdill

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Grace Under Pressure – Learning the Kayak Roll is good c-c only The Kayaker’s Edge also has a section on both the c-c & the sweep roll.

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- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – In the fly fishing world about 15 years ago there was a deluge of articles on the mechanics of fly casting.  Most were written by excellent casters who really did know how to cast but who really didn’t have a clear visualization of what they were actually doing.  Videotaping eventually provided the correct answers.   Question:  are good videotapes of the Eskimo roll available?  Where? Bob — —– Bob Perkins, Director of Institutional Research and Planning Methodist College Fayetteville, NC  28311                          Office: 910-630-7037

Yes, watch what they do and don’t pay to much attention to what they say they do. THE KAYAKERS EDGE BY KENT FORD is one of the best how to kayaking videos.It has a lot more than rolling. Buy it,rent it or borrow it,after you have seen it you’ll probably buy it,if you aren’t to short of cash. My 11 year old grand son taught himself to roll I guess from watching the video. I sure didn’t teach him.                     gene

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Question:  are good videotapes of the Eskimo roll available?  Where?

In "The Kayaker’s Edge", amidst all of the other intro and skill stuff, is about a ten minute bit on rolling. It’s got some good camera work that follows the roll above and below the water’s surface. It should be helpful for a lot of people. Paul

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Question:  are good videotapes of the Eskimo roll available?  Where? Bob

"Grace Under Pressure" is an excellent video discussing the C-to-C roll.  It discusses the on-side, off-side and the hand roll.  I highly recommend it.  This was the video I was shown before I even got into a kayak for the first time.  I eventually bought a copy for myself and find it very useful. Viewing that in combination with reading the Bomb Proof Roll has helped me a lot.  I would check with your local REI, I know they have the book, and I wouldn’t be surprised if they have the video.  Or, any shop that carries kayaking equipment should have the video or know where to find it.   Also, most of the paddling companies who do mail order has it. I know for sure that the latest NRS catalog has it.  You can even order a catalog from NRS’s home page at http://www.gorp.com/nrs.htm Happy rolling! Harriet

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| Help– I have been trying to master the Eskimo Roll for over a year now | with my sea kayak and am having problems.  Can anyone give me some tips | that migfht help me accomplish the challenge at hand.  Thanks I sincerely apologize for the confusion and appreciate the kind advice sent my way.  The original post appeared to be a sea kayaking fellow who was concentrating on the motion of his paddle — with no mention of hip snap.   Is there anyone out there in a sea kayak who can help him? Again, sorry for the confusion!!!

What confusion?  I’m a sea kayaker, and I’ve a good roll.  I really do not believe the roll is any different (in principle) in a sea kayak or a whitewater kayak.  The hip snap is just as much the key to the roll in a sea kayak.  Your advice was right on.  The boats do feel differently, and some sea kayaks can be very difficult to roll (certainly not all!), but the basic principles of rolling are exactly the same. The biggest difference, IMHO, is that sea kayakers don’t need to worry as much about the current smashing their faces into rocks!!! — Bob Myers                              InteleNet Communications, Inc. Phone: 714/851-8250                    Irvine, CA 92714 Fax:   714/851-1088                    http://www.intelenet.net/

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I’ve read two full descriptions, with pictures, of Eskimo rolls.  No wonder beginners get confused.  It took me several readings of both and careful scrutiny of the photographs to realize that the descriptions were essentially the same.  To wit:      Leverage roll  =  C-to-C roll      Screw roll  =  Sweep roll Beyond that, the descriptions spend more words on what to do with the paddle than on the mechanics of the hip roll which actually rights the boat.   Underwater, a person’s head and upper body have much more "sail area" than the paddle.  Positioning the paddle properly sets up the boater’s upper body in a brace for the hip roll.  Once the boat flips upright, the paddle brace helps the boater roll upright. In the fly fishing world about 15 years ago there was a deluge of articles on the mechanics of fly casting.  Most were written by excellent casters who really did know how to cast but who really didn’t have a clear visualization of what they were actually doing.  Videotaping eventually provided the correct answers.   Question:  are good videotapes of the Eskimo roll available?  Where? Bob — —– Bob Perkins, Director of Institutional Research and Planning Methodist College Fayetteville, NC  28311                          Office: 910-630-7037

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What confusion?  I’m a sea kayaker, and I’ve a good roll.  I really do not believe the roll is any different (in principle) in a sea kayak or a whitewater kayak.  The hip snap is just as much the key to the roll … The biggest difference, IMHO, is that sea kayakers don’t need to worry as much about the current smashing their faces into rocks!!!

Not always true.  My front teeth bear witness to that sad fact.  It’s been my experience that most often you’ll need a roll in a sea kayak nearer to shore where the waves are a lot different (less regular), and where rocks can lurk just under the surface to rearrange the faces of the less wary.

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re: Help– I have been trying to master the Eskimo Roll for over a year now with my sea kayak and am having problems.  Can anyone give me some tips that migfht help me accomplish the challenge at hand.  Thanks

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Help– I have been trying to master the Eskimo Roll for over a year now with my sea kayak and am having problems.  Can anyone give me some tips that migfht help me accomplish the challenge at hand.  Thanks

Hips, hips, hips, and keep the head underwater for as long as humanly possible.  :-) — Macalester College St. Paul, Minnesota http://sonic.bigelow.macalstr.edu

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Wow!  I bet this turns into a monster thread….it might even exceed "Peeing in your boat"… I taught myself to roll with no outside instruction and, since I’m too dense to make sense out of pictoral instructions, virtually no book instruction. To start off the hundred-or-so tips you’ll undoubtdedly receive here, I would say go out and purchase a diving mask and wear it when you practice rolling.   I got nowhere except a bad sinus infiction before I started using a noseclip.   Using the noseclip I began to make progress; but once I started wearing the diving mask things really picked up – with tha mask on it is much easier to just sort of hang there upside-down and think things out before trhing to roll up. There are three or four other things I’m tempted to say, but I’ll leave them to those that know better than I do.

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A full face mask really helps while you are learning. Also the vido Kayakers Edge is white water but very good. Watch how others do it and don,t listen to closely to how they say they do it.

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re: Help– I have been trying to master the Eskimo Roll for over a year now with my sea kayak and am having problems.  Can anyone give me some tips that migfht help me accomplish the challenge at hand.  Thanks

I taught myself a simple cross roll first.  Noseclip, mask, a watcher to give you feed back.  I wraped the end of the paddle in an old sleeping pad and stuck it in the rungs of my ladder leading into the lake.  Once I could do that OK, I moved to float on the end of the paddle.  Finally I could do a simple roll with just the paddle.  Then I learned a real extended paddle roll.  Never could get a screw roll down with the heavier sea kayak – might have to do with narrow paddle and lots of surface area and deck rigging. Have fun Steve

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| re: | | Help– I have been trying to master the Eskimo Roll for over a year now | with my sea kayak and am having problems.  Can anyone give me some tips | that migfht help me accomplish the challenge at hand.  Thanks George: I think the best thing would be to take lessons. But, let me say a coupla things about rolls in general, at least for *me*.  If you get up part way and seem to sink back at the last moment, you are trying to raise your head too fast. I have found that keeping my eyes on the paddle as it sweeps back forces me to keep my head down. I also use the extended paddle roll, which IMHO is the best for a sea kayak roll beginner. Don’t forget the hip snap, try to have another person watch as you try your rolls, they might see you doing things that you aren’t aware of. Also, wearing a PFD during your attempts, even in a pool, helps to get started. Finaly, I have to practice each spring or I find that I get "rusty". Good luck. —         )                                J sales rep-sgi     http://www.dayton.sgi.com dayton, oh        513-258-7441  fax 7449

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Take a pool rolling class.  Four or five sessions should do it.  I also recommend the dive mask starting out.  The AMC and Casco Bay here in the Boston area offer these with a boat for under $100.  Good chance to try out other boats and meet some people to paddle with. — Regards, Sean

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Some things to help with learning to roll, roll, roll yer boat: 1)  Relax and have fun with this.  It’s NOT a muscle thing so just relax. 2)  Start by rolling the boat over with your hips on the edge of a pool      or dock or something to hold onto. 3)  Graduate to using a couple of kickboards after you can do the hip      roll easily on both sides from the solid hold. 4)  Reach out to the side as far as possible using the boards before      rolling up. 5)  Keep your head down as you "slinky" up rolling your hips first and      FOLLOWING with your head.  If your head comes out first before the      boat is over you’ll never make it. 6)  Once you can do this easily on one or both sides, take one of the      kickboards away.  One kickboard is about the lift that your paddle      will give, so try this until you can do it easily. 7)  NOW you can use your paddle, but it helps to have someone hold the end     at first.  With the paddle parallel to the boat as you go over with     your good hand forward (usually your writing hand, but eventually either)     sweep the paddle across the TOP of the water until the paddle is     perpendicular to the boat.  This forces your non-writing hand elbow     to slide UNDER the boat bottom and out of the water (when the boat is     upside down.  Then do the hip-slinky thing to roll the boat over and     follow with your head.  It helps to have someone watch and hold the     paddle a couple of times to get the feel and to have them watch that the     blade angle is flat on the surface of the water before you hip snap.  Don’t give up, it’s damn hard to do at first, but once you "get it" you     will wonder why it seemed so hard. 9)  Relax!  It doesn’t take a lot of muscle, it’s a technique thing. 10) Once you get it, play around with different ways of using your paddle     to get up and intentionally make yourself roll over in all sorts of     funny positions to learn to get into position from almost any angle etc… This is called the C to C roll, the eskimo is real similar but sweeps the blade rather than placing it perpendicular before you roll (kinda like doing the set-up for a C to C at the same time you roll your hips.  Most people need to learn the hip snap before putting it all together.  The eskimo roll from the stern of the boat rather than the bow is called a styr roll and is accomplished be sitting up from leaning back rather than from sweeping back from leaning forward. One of the greatest joys is your first roll in whitewater!  : ) Happy rolling! Robb

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| Help– I have been trying to master the Eskimo Roll for over a year now | with my sea kayak and am having problems.  Can anyone give me some tips | that migfht help me accomplish the challenge at hand.  Thanks I noticed in another part of your post that you seem to be concentrating on your paddle.  I’m not a sea kayaker, but I have been in a sea kayak and rolled w/no trouble (without even a spray skirt).  Those of us rolling on whitewater rely most heavily on the "hip snap" element of the roll rather than the paddle (there’s even a "hands roll" which involves no paddle at all). Check out the book "The Bombproof Roll and Beyond" if you are still of a mind to teach yourself.  It’s an excellent book – one I’ve used as a reference for trouble shooting while teaching roll clinics. Good luck!

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- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – | Help– I have been trying to master the Eskimo Roll for over a year now | with my sea kayak and am having problems.  Can anyone give me some tips | that migfht help me accomplish the challenge at hand.  Thanks I noticed in another part of your post that you seem to be concentrating on your paddle.  I’m not a sea kayaker, but I have been in a sea kayak and rolled w/no trouble (without even a spray skirt).  Those of us rolling on whitewater rely most heavily on the "hip snap" element of the roll rather than the paddle (there’s even a "hands roll" which involves no paddle at all). Check out the book "The Bombproof Roll and Beyond" if you are still of a mind to teach yourself.  It’s an excellent book – one I’ve used as a reference for trouble shooting while teaching roll clinics. Good luck!

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| Help– I have been trying to master the Eskimo Roll for over a year now | with my sea kayak and am having problems.  Can anyone give me some tips | that migfht help me accomplish the challenge at hand.  Thanks

i learned my good side roll with the standard c to c hip  snap, with a wide blade paddle. i never learned my bad side roll untill i started doing extended braces to the point where i could get my head in the water and skull in place .when you can do this with your head under the water you have mastered the hard part which is getting your head out without going back down. think it through in your head, it helps, and practice,practice,practice. just my 2 cents worth. my bad side roll was learned with my much prefered narrow blade paddle

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I noticed in another part of your post that you seem to be concentrating on your paddle.  I’m not a sea kayaker, but I have been in a sea kayak and rolled w/no trouble (without even a spray skirt).  Those of us rolling on whitewater rely most heavily on the "hip snap" element of the roll rather than the paddle (there’s even a "hands roll" which involves no paddle at all). Check out the book "The Bombproof Roll and Beyond" if you are still of a mind to teach yourself.  It’s an excellent book – one I’ve used as a reference for trouble shooting while teaching roll clinics. Good luck!

The above was in response to: | Help– I have been trying to master the Eskimo Roll for over a year now | with my sea kayak and am having problems.  Can anyone give me some tips | that migfht help me accomplish the challenge at hand.  Thanks

I sincerely apologize for the confusion and appreciate the kind advice sent my way.  The original post appeared to be a sea kayaking fellow who was concentrating on the motion of his paddle — with no mention of hip snap.   Is there anyone out there in a sea kayak who can help him? Again, sorry for the confusion!!! Happy paddling! Cheers Elizabeth

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I agree with all that has been said and especially encourage you to try the mask or goggles. I am still working on a consistent roll. My biggest problem is that I tend to lift my head too soon. I didn’t even believe i was doing it at first so I put on the goggles and opened my eyes and sure enough I was looking at the ceiling intstead of at my paddle or the pool bottom. As long as I look at the bottom I tend to come up without fail. Good luck Lisa

well, sheesh, I really kinda hate to say this;   I readily concurr with all these folks that all these aids may very well be the cats meow for some folk, but my experience has been rather different.   It took me a solid two years before I had a "bomber" roll. These days I can usually teach a 2 person class to roll in one pool session, 2 sessions at the outside.  I bought into the whole reading, goggles, nose plugs, video whatever. , , , , the thing is, where visualation may be of some assistance for some things, rolling is SO counterintuitive that for most people, making an attempt at visualizing what is going on only handicaps their progression.  I was honored once opon a time to teach alongside Eric Jackson of Adventure Schools. EJ can (I’ve seen him do it) teach a group of half a dozen people who have never held a paddle to roll in about an hour without getting out of his boat most of the time.  I can say with some certainty, that rolling is a BODY move, where sitting around underwater, upside down, looking around with your goggles on, is ridiculously disorienting. Visualizing is an INTELLECTUAL exercise. If your try to teach your intellect to teach your body to do something that is very counter to instinct, you are fighting an uphill battle with a slim chance at success. Facts are, your body wants air, in order to get air, it wants to get its air ports, (yer head) out of the water, as long as you are trying to get your head out first, you will fail.   I cannot teach as Eric does, I teach in the water, I only demonstrate that the roll is in fact quite easy, does not require a paddle, and can be done on or off sides. I after demonstrating these things so as to make them appear as easy as they in fact are, I beach my boat, get in the water with my students, sans paddles, take them by the hands, get good eye contact and show them how to use their bodies to make the move. Then I give them their paddle back, posistion it for them as they go through the motions a few times, each time gently correcting any attempts to use strength over grace, each time easing my grip on the paddle untill I only have a few fingers on the blade. I then usually let the blade go after positioning it a few times, soon I am not doing anything other than being close by as they execute their first few rolls. More often than not, my students are not aware that they have rolled on their own untill I tell them.  I guess my point is, rather than spend a lot of time concerning oneself with the "Okay, I’m upside down now, so if I put this hand here, cant the shaft this way, put that hand there, turn my head this way, and then, , ,  uh, I need to , , , uh, , , wait, lemme see, I need to twich this way and push that way and move the paddle this other way, , , wait, uh, , I need to, , , , crap, I need to breath!!! , , arrgghhh!!!"  Hook up with an instructor and have them teach you. Post Script;   It is a little strange in some sense, less so in others, that by and large both, in my experience, women very often learn the roll much faster than their S.O.’s in class. There are a lot of things at play here, however, i.m.e. the women seldom attempt to strong arm the roll, and the men nealy always do. In fact the more athletic the man, the more difficult it is to get them to let themselves roll. As another digression, I’ve had folk with a background in oriental martial arts specificly Akido, roll on their first try after having the roll slowly demonstrated.     Once I had a gal tell me that she though the paddle was messing her up, then executed a hands roll after about 2 tries. That perplexes me to this day. It was a real pill gettting her to roll with a paddle.

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, , , , the thing is, where visualation may be of some assistance for some things, rolling is SO counterintuitive that for most people, making an attempt at visualizing what is going on only handicaps their progression. … I can say with some certainty, that rolling is a BODY move, where sitting around underwater, upside down, looking around with your goggles on, is ridiculously disorienting. Visualizing is an INTELLECTUAL exercise. If your try to teach your intellect to teach your body to do something that is very counter to instinct, you are fighting an uphill battle with a slim chance at success. Facts are,

Well, I, for one, would like to state that this depends very much on who you are and how you learn, and different people learn in different manners.   In particular, I *absolutely* need to visualize a manuever before I can do it – and once I’ve visualized it completely, I really *can* do it.  It’s very frustrating for me when people of the opposite type (going for the "feel" of it *without* the visualization) try to teach me any physical skill.  I just can’t do it. On the other hand, contrary to most people’s experience, I very easily picked up my "off" side roll, once I had a good "on" side roll.  It was, for me, literally no more than reversing what I did on the "on" side.  No "learning" of body movements was required; all I had to do was visualize the reversed movements. What I’m trying to say is that we’re all different, and it’s hard to generalize that this way or that way is the best way to learn for everyone.  Some of us require visualization, and some of us require the body training. I guess my point is, rather than spend a lot of time concerning oneself with the "Okay, I’m upside down now, so if I put this hand here, cant the shaft this way, put that hand there, turn my head this way, and then, , ,  uh, I need to , , , uh, , , wait, lemme see, I need to twich this way and push that way and move the paddle this other way, , , wait, uh, , I need to, , , , crap, I need to breath!!! , , arrgghhh!!!"  Hook up with an instructor and have them teach you.

I agree that an instructor helps, on the other hand.  I need to watch an instructor to *see* exactly what he was doing.  But then I needed to think it through and visualize the whole process. — Bob Myers                              InteleNet Communications, Inc. Phone: 714/851-8250                    Irvine, CA 92714 Fax:   714/851-1088                    http://www.intelenet.net/

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 Once I had a gal tell me that she though the paddle was messing her up, then executed a hands roll after about 2 tries. That perplexes me to this day. It was a real pill gettting her to roll with a paddle.

I believe thqt there is really something to this idea that: "this clumsy paddle messes me up when I try to roll" My son could do hand rolls, both sides, the second day trying to roll, however he is still having trouble using a paddle to roll. I think that when you have a paddle in your hands, you use it and forget about the body. If you don’t have a paddle, you KNOW you have to use your body. Makes sense to me. Jon Hauris

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Question:

Planning a visit to some friends in the Bolinas/Stinson Beach area early in April.  Thought I’d take my flyrod.  Anybody have any suggestions?  I’d be interested in fishing surf or small streams or anything in between, as long as it was close to Bolinas. Thanks, David

There’s a lake in the Point Reyes National Seashore that allegedly has some trout in it (Bass Lake), although I don’t know anyone who has actually fished it. Lagunitas Lake in the Marin Municipal Water District is stocked and artificial lures, no barbs, only. Some of the other lakes in the same area attract lots of bait fisherman. No stream fishing available in the area that I know of. Surf fishing with a fly rod?  Can’t say I’ve ever seen it done, but can’t say I’ve been looking either. Closest stream fishing (steelhead) would be the Russian River. — There is no such thing as a dumb question, but there IS such a thing as a dumb answer – I’ve given some.

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Try the small gas station / fishing shop on the road between Petaluma and Bodega.  George will tell you about fishing the area -especially Tomales bay.  Look on the map for Walker Ck.- which is a misnomer, but hal local currency.  If he is in the phone book, idt will be on BOdega Hiway, I athink. He is guiding on athe Russian R as well. Regards, Cliff

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suggestions?  I’d be interested in fishing surf or small streams or anything in between, as long as it was close to Bolinas.

Depends on how close is close. . . Most of the coastal rivers/streams are not open to fishing in that area, until you get up to the Russian River to the north.  There is good quality perch fishing at that time.  There are 2 or 3 guys who work at Western Sport Shop in San Rafael who i’ve seen out there each spring.  Their number is 415-456-5454. I’d ask for Gene or Noel.  They’ve got some patterns worked up which produce pretty well.  They’re real good on the whole area, too. re: other post The Bass Lake ponds in Pt. Reyes Natl Sea Shore are fun to walk to, but pretty fishless for about the last 10 years. *                                                     *

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Quoting brande from a message in rec.outdoors.fishing.fly    <Planning a visit to some friends in the Bolinas/Stinson Beach area    <early in April.  Thought I’d take my flyrod.  Anybody have any    <suggestions?  I’d be interested in fishing surf or small streams or    <anything in between, as long as it was close to Bolinas. David – You should may be able to catch surf perch off the beaches up there. Also, Russian River is just to the north.  Not too sure of all the specifics as I haven’t lived in NorCal in quite a few years. Jim Carlisle

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Planning a visit to some friends in the Bolinas/Stinson Beach area early in April.  Thought I’d take my flyrod.  Anybody have any suggestions?  I’d be interested in fishing surf or small streams or anything in between, as long as it was close to Bolinas. Thanks, David

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Question:

My brother wants to buy a Renzetti Traveller.  Should I try to talk him out of it?  If so, should he get a Regal or a more expensive Renzetti?

IMO, no, its a very good vice for the money unless of course he has the money to buy the more expensive vice. (Regals ARE nice) Then just on principal he should get the more exensive vice. After all this is fly fishing <vbseg. Right now he is suffering with one of those $13 Indian vises, so he does need a new vise.

Yes he does I am bothered a little bit by the fact that the Traveller’s rotation does not lock.

If you don’t want to use the rotary feature (I don’t), just tighten the rotary mechanism against the post and it will lock. Is this a real handicap, or am I rationalizing my fidelity to my

Thompson Pro? You’re just rationalizing Wayne Knight Marietta GA                                              

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writes: My brother wants to buy a Renzetti Traveller.  Should I try to talk him
out of it?  If so, should he get a Regal or a more expensive Renzetti? Right now he is suffering with one of those $13 Indian vises, so he does
need a new vise.
I am bothered a little bit by the fact that the Traveller’s rotation does
not lock.  Is this a real handicap, or am I rationalizing my fidelity to
my Thompson Pro?

I’ve used a Renzetti Traveller for more than three years now and love it! It should be noted that I got no real experience with any other vices, except a few Indian ones that didn’t last me long. I guess the locking could be an handicap, but I’ve never missed it for my tying (mostly saltwater and salmon). And it travels real well! Inge

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: It should be noted that I got no real experience with any other vices, : except a few Indian ones that didn’t last me long. A good vice should last a lifetime, I always say. (Sorry, couldn’t resist…) — BW Brad Williams —

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… I am bothered a little bit by the fact that the Traveller’s rotation does not lock.  Is this a real handicap, or am I rationalizing my fidelity to my Thompson Pro?

You can in fact, adjust the drag (to the point of locking) on the renzetti’s rotation using the 2 friction wheels. It’s not the most convenient system though. Personally, I use the traveller as my only vise. I do travel alot and often bring my tying case with me. The size and weight of the traveller are great for this. Otherwise, the traveller is a great vise for the money. Good jaws, large range and very functional, at 1/3rd the price of the rest of the renzetti line. rick

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I’ve used everything from the Thompson A vise through the Renzetti, HMH, and Regal, and I’ve ended up with the Regal…it’s an absolutely foolproof vise,provides resting place for the left hand, is perfectly rotatable, esp. if Ingeset it up horizontally, can be used right-= or left- handed, has interchangeable heads, and can be had for a reasonable price.  The other vises are wonderful, too, but nothing beats the Regal in my view (for what it’s worth), and I’ve been tying flies for more than fifty years. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – writes: My brother wants to buy a Renzetti Traveller.  Should I try to talk him out of it?  If so, should he get a Regal or a more expensive Renzetti? Right now he is suffering with one of those $13 Indian vises, so he does need a new vise. I am bothered a little bit by the fact that the Traveller’s rotation does not lock.  Is this a real handicap, or am I rationalizing my fidelity to my Thompson Pro? I’ve used a Renzetti Traveller for more than three years now and love it! It should be noted that I got no real experience with any other vices, except a few Indian ones that didn’t last me long. I guess the locking could be an handicap, but I’ve never missed it for my tying (mostly saltwater and salmon). And it travels real well! Inge

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I have responded several times to questions about the Renzetti Traveller. It is wonderful.  The issue of the rotation not locking is a non issue. What makes the Renzetti system so nice is that the rotation of the hook shaft is central, due to the offset jaws.  Therefore, there is no tendency for the vice to rotate under load.  The other thing that is very nice about the Traveller that is not true of the higher priced Renzettis; it will rotate in both directions.  This is very useful if you tie ribbing reverse-wrapped over palmered hackle, such as in a Spey salmon or steelhead fly.   Crashjibe

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writes: My brother wants to buy a Renzetti Traveller.  Should I try to talk him out of it?  If so, should he get a Regal or a more expensive Renzetti? Right now he is suffering with one of those $13 Indian vises, so he does need a new vise.

I have both a Regal and a Renzetti Traveller. I love the Renzetti. It works very well, is very well designed, and weighs only 8 ounces! Steve Rosenblum

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I’m relatively new to tying.  After breaking my beginner $13 Indian vise, I bought a Renzetti Traveller.  I really like the Traveller–but admitedly I don’t have much experience for comparisons.   By the way, you CAN lock the rotation by increasing the drag sufficiently, although it’s not overwhelmingly convenient.

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The Traveller is the BEST vise for someone upgrading from a beginners-type vise. The price is right, and it will be years before he outgrows the vise and feels he needs a more sophisticated one. And then he will have one for traveling and one for the home base!!!

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My brother wants to buy a Renzetti Traveller.  Should I try to talk him out of it?  If so, should he get a Regal or a more expensive Renzetti? Right now he is suffering with one of those $13 Indian vises, so he does need a new vise. I am bothered a little bit by the fact that the Traveller’s rotation does not lock.  Is this a real handicap, or am I rationalizing my fidelity to my Thompson Pro? — Keep your stick on the ice.

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I really enjoy tying with mine, it’s all I need in a vise.  

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I really enjoy tying with mine, it’s all I need in a vise.  

Have you tried a Regal vise yet?  I have an Inex (their cheapest model) and I love it.  Sometimes I wish it were a rotary, but that’s only once and a while.  The spring loaded clamping method they use is really neat.  Just work the handle and insert a hook. One problem though.  If you don’t put the hook in enough, it may pop out and chip the tip of the jaws.  I did that twice then sent it back.  They fixed it for free, but made it clear that the next time I do that it will cost $25 for a new set of jaws.  Plus I have kids, so I have to find every hook I drop.  One flew over 10 feet out into the hall.  Thank goodness hooks are made out of ferrous (sp?) metal. I was wondering if other cam-type vises do this too?   A sunny day,      a box of midges,         and a wandering stream…   Man, this MUST be heaven!   <    Steve Kulpa    <<

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