Question:

I’m going to be in Portland for a couple of days but will probably only be able to fish one full day. Can anybody recommend a good Steelhead river and hopefully a guide within a 2-3 hour drive of Portland Oregon. Either Oregon or Washington destinations are fine althought I was, for whatever reason, leaning towards Washington rivers. TIA, Randy

Response:

I’m going to be in Portland for a couple of days but will probably only be able to fish one full day.

go to www.ifish.net and read the latest reports. There are a number of guides listed there and all have good reputations. I can personally speak to the fact that Dave Johnson is one of the finest people, as well as being a guide, that you will ever have the pleasure of fishing with. Cos

Response:

Give Kaufmann’s a try… www.kman.com Clark

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I’m going to be in Portland for a couple of days but will probably only be able to fish one full day. Can anybody recommend a good Steelhead river and hopefully a guide within a 2-3 hour drive of Portland Oregon. Either Oregon or Washington destinations are fine althought I was, for whatever reason, leaning towards Washington rivers. TIA, Randy

Response:

I’d go to the lower  Deschutes or The Klickitat.  I knew people who were catching fish in the Lewis river last week but access to it is not easy. The Wilson is a short drive but "fair" at the moment.  It could change any time with rain.   There’s supposed to be fish (samon and steelhead )in Eagle Creek just east of Portland, bring your own rock to stand on.  When you get to town call Kauffmans, Rivercity flyshop or Fishermans Marine Supply.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I’m going to be in Portland for a couple of days but will probably only be able to fish one full day. Can anybody recommend a good Steelhead river and hopefully a guide within a 2-3 hour drive of Portland Oregon. Either Oregon or Washington destinations are fine althought I was, for whatever reason, leaning towards Washington rivers. TIA, Randy

Response:

If you plan to fish the Deschuttes, Sandy, Salmon or Clackamas you could contact either Kaufmann’s Streamborn in Tigard or The FlyFishing Shop in Welches. guy

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I’m going to be in Portland for a couple of days but will probably only be able to fish one full day. Can anybody recommend a good Steelhead river and hopefully a guide within a 2-3 hour drive of Portland Oregon. Either Oregon or Washington destinations are fine althought I was, for whatever reason, leaning towards Washington rivers. TIA, Randy

Response:

I took a river class from Mark Bachman and it was a great experience.  He has to be one of the most patient guides to teach spey casting.  Good thing I was not chewing gum at the same time.  I recommend any guide affiliated with the Welches shop.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – If you plan to fish the Deschuttes, Sandy, Salmon or Clackamas you could contact either Kaufmann’s Streamborn in Tigard or The FlyFishing Shop in Welches. guy I’m going to be in Portland for a couple of days but will probably only be able to fish one full day. Can anybody recommend a good Steelhead river and hopefully a guide within a 2-3 hour drive of Portland Oregon. Either Oregon or Washington destinations are fine althought I was, for whatever reason, leaning towards Washington rivers. TIA, Randy

Response:

I also had a great trip from the shop with Brian Silvey in July.  Caught one steelhead and many trout.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I took a river class from Mark Bachman and it was a great experience.  He has to be one of the most patient guides to teach spey casting.  Good thing I was not chewing gum at the same time.  I recommend any guide affiliated with the Welches shop. If you plan to fish the Deschuttes, Sandy, Salmon or Clackamas you could contact either Kaufmann’s Streamborn in Tigard or The FlyFishing Shop in Welches. guy I’m going to be in Portland for a couple of days but will probably only be able to fish one full day. Can anybody recommend a good Steelhead river and hopefully a guide within a 2-3 hour drive of Portland Oregon. Either Oregon or Washington destinations are fine althought I was, for whatever reason, leaning towards Washington rivers. TIA, Randy

Response:

Question:

Monday we finally got enough of a break in the wind to allow us to get way out in the sound.  Found some pretty white sand shorelines and poled along them.  Lo and behold there were nice sized schools of redfish cruising along in 8 inches of crystal clear water with a light colored bottom.  Perfect.  We threw tan/white clousers and merkins at them (size 2).  Caught them up to 26 inches.  Each strike a picture perfect sight fishing shot.  Just like bonefishing in the Bahamas.  Here are links to a couple pictures: http://www.mindspring.com/~taftsville/redwade.jpg http://www.mindspring.com/~taftsville/redwade2.jpg

Response:

gordon – the area looks familiar <g… i was doing the same thing in the pamlico over on the swan quarter/englehard side on sunday…except i was using a light spinning rod. at this very moment i’m cooking a 23 incher i brought home – yum.  lost several bigguns, and caught 5 smaller ones.  puppy drum are becoming one of my favorite fish! fun to catch…delicious to eat. have you tried a crab pattern for them yet? jeff – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Monday we finally got enough of a break in the wind to allow us to get way out in the sound.  Found some pretty white sand shorelines and poled along them.  Lo and behold there were nice sized schools of redfish cruising along in 8 inches of crystal clear water with a light colored bottom.  Perfect.  We threw tan/white clousers and merkins at them (size 2).  Caught them up to 26 inches.  Each strike a picture perfect sight fishing shot.  Just like bonefishing in the Bahamas.  Here are links to a couple pictures: http://www.mindspring.com/~taftsville/redwade.jpg http://www.mindspring.com/~taftsville/redwade2.jpg

Response:

We’re thinking of a trip in the next 2 or 3 weeks.  Much going on down there?  We would like to fish the Sound for whatever is hitting a fly. — Wayne To Fish is Human…To Release Divine! – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Monday we finally got enough of a break in the wind to allow us to get way out in the sound.  Found some pretty white sand shorelines and poled along them.  Lo and behold there were nice sized schools of redfish cruising along in 8 inches of crystal clear water with a light colored bottom.  Perfect.  We threw tan/white clousers and merkins at them (size 2).  Caught them up to 26 inches.  Each strike a picture perfect sight fishing shot.  Just like bonefishing in the Bahamas.  Here are links to a couple pictures: http://www.mindspring.com/~taftsville/redwade.jpg http://www.mindspring.com/~taftsville/redwade2.jpg

Response:

Question:

Okay, so I am sure you are all pretty well starting to panic that I have up and left without so much as a good bye.  Well, you are wrong (I would have at least given an F you and the single finger salute).  Life has been busy and I have not had time to spend countless hours reading spam, garbage, and hate posts. As a matter of fact I tried coming back once before , but the time wasn’t right because I didn’t want to come back in the middle of a war. Anyways,  I will have the info everybody is seeking monday.  Sunday I am going fishing on the Madison and have planned a stop in Ennis to haggle with the innkeepers and inspect the premises.  Trying to do this shit over the phone really wasn’t working and I could only give rough estimates and was basically being blown off.  If you are camping there are several sites that are on a first come first serve basis for something like $5 a day.  Most fishing access also allow camping I have found.  There is one right on the edge of Ennis on the other side of the river where I have seen motorhomes, tents, ect.  This is where I am planning on setting up the base camp.  I will be arriving early to claim spots since they are first come first serve.   As far as hotels.  Monday will be the big announcement as to where.  If some kind of up front monetary fee is required then it will be each individual attendees responsible to make the arrangements.  I have fished this area a lot and it does get busy during the summer and people do make reservations a year in advance, but I have never found Ennis to be packed full with every motel, hotel, ect full.  I recommend that reservations be made though as I would like to keep everyone staying in rooms in one place for convenience sake. I have spent most of my time researching different fishing locations and what not. Don’t ask for names in advance because I am not giving them out until you show up at the clave.  Some are obvious like the Madison, but others do not get as much plublicity and are great fishing and I would like to keep them that way.  Pisses me off when I see more and more of my haunts starting to be advertised in ads here, in magazines and the fly shops and the crowds start growing.  I will not contribute to this disease! Don’t worry about bears.  If your number is up there is nothing you can do about it.  Bear spray (as with firearms) are more a comfort for the carrier than for effectiveness.  The reason I say bear spray as well is because the bear isn’t going to stop when you say "Time out!  The wind is coming from the wrong direction and will be ineffective unless you allow me to move over here."  Heard of some people doing more harm to themselves than what they did to the bear and all over a false charge to boot. Most of the places we will be fishing aren’t notorious bear hang outs.   I really do apologize for being out of touch for so long.  Hunting season kept me pretty busy and then life decided to get more complicated and I haven’t even had time to fish.  I sort of drifted off a little too far it seems.  But all is well and you will be seeing me around here more often (for better or worse). Now if I can only find a good worth while argument to get involved in. . . . . Time to start searching. Warren Warren Remember, men will come and men will go, but the streams and mountains go on forever. -Bob Carmichael

Response:

Due to the peculiarities of Usenet, I haven’t seen Warren’s original

Got it. Thanks. — visit my web site: http://home.earthlink.net/~royalwulff/ something bogus to avoid spam)

Response:

Vern, I have added your name.   Warren Remember, men will come and men will go, but the streams and mountains go on forever. -Bob Carmichael

Response:

So George, now that you will be over here during that time will you or will you not be with the group?  I don’t know whether to you put your name down or not. Your other thread said you would be in the area but would not be mixing with the "bottom dwellers." Warren Remember, men will come and men will go, but the streams and mountains go on forever. -Bob Carmichael

Response:

Thanks for all of your hard work warren.  I’m still hoping to make it, it’s a long ways off for me yet though. I would be in the "camping" category. I’d be driving up from NM and probably bringing someone with me, maybe my significant other, or maybe someone who is a fly fisher. Thanks again Warren. bruiser aka bruce

Response:

Due to the peculiarities of Usenet, I haven’t seen Warren’s original This sort of thing could be a problem in the future. Usenet in unreliable. It would be best to email people on the list directly (but also send a copy to ROFF). — visit my web site: http://home.earthlink.net/~royalwulff/ something bogus to avoid spam)

Response:

I want one of those hats and shirts.  That is if you can get a shirt in my size, boys size 14.  Just tell me how much and I’ll send you a check.  Unless you demand a money order. Vern?  (The Big Little Man)

with stilts?  If not, I will bring you my motorized drift tube with trolling motor to get  you around the Henry’s Fork. No joke.  I will even provide the big marine battery and I bet you think I’m kidding!? If not, you will be welcome to command the front deck of my drift boat with a grand view of every prime trout you care to molest.  (If you find me) You will enjoy this trip Vern.   Mr.G. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text –

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I would like to be put on the list.  I’ve already told work that I’m taking time off.  I’m tying flies.  I’ve talked a co-worker in coming up as well.  Well, I think he’s coming.  Please put my name on the list.  I will be there. Vernon D. Ursenbach If your name is not on the list or you want it taken off the list please let me know. Tim Walker Jeffrey Miller Stephen Barnard (RW) Ken Fortenberry Mike S. Medintz Mark Anderson Wayne Harrison William Loehman Mark Faulkner Bruce aka Bruiser                                     mr.g. will be over here Charlie Choc John Iding David Snedeker Dave LaCourse Peter Charles Daytripper Big Dale Indian Joe Tom Brown Jon Cook Darin Minor Ed Miller Before you buy.

– http://www.gink.com/chat

Response:

Warren I will handle the hats and shirts thing if you want. Dave

It’s a deal!  I suggest money in advance BTW, glad to see you are still around.  This is kind of like coming back home after a long time and getting back together with old friends and stuff. Warren Remember, men will come and men will go, but the streams and mountains go on forever. -Bob Carmichael

Response:

I want one of those hats and shirts.  That is if you can get a shirt in my size, boys size 14.  Just tell me how much and I’ll send you a check.  Unless you demand a money order. Vern Warren I will handle the hats and shirts thing if you want. Dave

Before you buy.

Response:

I would like to be put on the list.  I’ve already told work that I’m taking time off.  I’m tying flies.  I’ve talked a co-worker in coming up as well.  Well, I think he’s coming.  Please put my name on the list.  I will be there. Vernon D. Ursenbach – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – If your name is not on the list or you want it taken off the list please let me know. Tim Walker Jeffrey Miller Stephen Barnard (RW) Ken Fortenberry Mike S. Medintz Mark Anderson Wayne Harrison William Loehman Mark Faulkner Bruce aka Bruiser Charlie Choc John Iding David Snedeker Dave LaCourse Peter Charles Daytripper Big Dale Indian Joe Tom Brown Jon Cook Darin Minor Ed Miller

Before you buy.

Response:

Warren I will handle the hats and shirts thing if you want. Dave

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -One more thing.  Just so I get my numbers straight, how many people who are still interested in attending will be wanting rooms?  How many are willing/want to share?  I have the numbers from a few months ago, but need updated numbers. I was thinking that hats and tshirts for claves have all been done.  How about sweat shirts for the western clave?  Any volunteers to head this up? Here is the list of people I have who are interested in attending.  If your name is not on the list or you want it taken off the list please let me know. Tim Walker Jeffrey Miller Stephen Barnard (RW) Ken Fortenberry Mike S. Medintz Mark Anderson Wayne Harrison William Loehman Mark Faulkner Bruce aka Bruiser Charlie Choc John Iding David Snedeker Dave LaCourse Peter Charles Daytripper Big Dale Indian Joe Tom Brown Jon Cook Darin Minor Ed Miller Some people have indicated they are bringing guests/family members.  I am not responsible for any ethics that might be crossed or morals that  will be violated, for the record.  In no way am I responsible for anything other than fun and fishing and the other details for which I have voluntarily sacrificed myself. As far as meals go I was thinking that those will be taken care of by the individual.  We can make a nightly gathering at a local restaurant or cafe for those who want to show.  Other than that you are on your own.  After dinner perhaps drinking and debauchery by the fire at the campsites. I was also thinking that on one day, maybe the last day or the day before the last day we could have a BBQ after a morning fishing adventure followed by a fishing finale.  Maybe have some fresh caught BBQ’d fish, ribs, hamburgers ect. Maybe someone would be willing to organize a pot or something.  Gambling pot, not smoking substance or horticulture related pot.  Something like first fish of the day, biggest fish, smallest fish, stinky award for whoever gets skunked. Anyone want to volunteer for putting together a raffle or items for the raffle? Can’t have a clave without a raffle!  Don’t make me send my henchmen out to collect! Can anyone think of anything else?  Individuals or a group are welcome to volunteer for any of these ventures. That’s all for now. Warren Remember, men will come and men will go, but the streams and mountains go on forever. -Bob Carmichael

Response:

Almost forgot.  For those of you who want to rent cars here is a list of places. Rentals: Avis 1-800-831-2847 or (406) 388-6414 (at Bozeman airport)         Free unlimited mileage rates available, weekend and weekly rentals, wide variety of fine GM cars, 4×4’s and mini vans, special local rates offered. Budget Rent A Car 1-800-527-0700 or (406) 388-4091 or www.drivebudget.com (at Bozeman airport)         Prearranged customer pick-up and drop-off available, 4×4 Explorers, 4×4 Suburbans, pick ups, mini vans, 15 passenger vans and cars of all sizes, unlimited mileage rates available. Enterprise Rent-A-Car 1-800-325-8007 or (406) 586-8010         Low everyday rates, plus weekend & holiday discounts, corporate and government rates, economoy to luxury cars, wagons, 4×4’s, ski-equipped vehicles, minivans, trucks and more, free pick-up from your home, office or repair shop. Hertz 1-800-654-3131 or (406) 388-6939 or hertz.com  (at airport)         4×4’s and minivans available National Car Rental 1-800-car-rent or (406) 388-6694 or national.car.com Warren Remember, men will come and men will go, but the streams and mountains go on forever. -Bob Carmichael

Response:

One more thing.  Just so I get my numbers straight, how many people who are still interested in attending will be wanting rooms?  How many are willing/want to share?  I have the numbers from a few months ago, but need updated numbers. I was thinking that hats and tshirts for claves have all been done.  How about sweat shirts for the western clave?  Any volunteers to head this up? Here is the list of people I have who are interested in attending.  If your name is not on the list or you want it taken off the list please let me know. Tim Walker Jeffrey Miller   Stephen Barnard (RW) Ken Fortenberry   Mike S. Medintz   Mark Anderson   Wayne Harrison William Loehman Mark Faulkner   Bruce aka Bruiser Charlie Choc John Iding   David Snedeker   Dave LaCourse   Peter Charles   Daytripper Big Dale   Indian Joe   Tom Brown Jon Cook   Darin Minor Ed Miller Some people have indicated they are bringing guests/family members.  I am not responsible for any ethics that might be crossed or morals that  will be violated, for the record.  In no way am I responsible for anything other than fun and fishing and the other details for which I have voluntarily sacrificed myself. As far as meals go I was thinking that those will be taken care of by the individual.  We can make a nightly gathering at a local restaurant or cafe for those who want to show.  Other than that you are on your own.  After dinner perhaps drinking and debauchery by the fire at the campsites. I was also thinking that on one day, maybe the last day or the day before the last day we could have a BBQ after a morning fishing adventure followed by a fishing finale.  Maybe have some fresh caught BBQ’d fish, ribs, hamburgers ect. Maybe someone would be willing to organize a pot or something.  Gambling pot, not smoking substance or horticulture related pot.  Something like first fish of the day, biggest fish, smallest fish, stinky award for whoever gets skunked. Anyone want to volunteer for putting together a raffle or items for the raffle? Can’t have a clave without a raffle!  Don’t make me send my henchmen out to collect! Can anyone think of anything else?  Individuals or a group are welcome to volunteer for any of these ventures. That’s all for now. Warren Remember, men will come and men will go, but the streams and mountains go on forever. -Bob Carmichael

Response:

Question:

I recommend a 16 ft Mad River Explorer.

Me too. I don’t know how far around the block this conversation has gone, but for my way over 2-cents worth of experience goes, there is NO better all around boat (considering performance, versatility, cost, looks, maintenance, etc) than the 16 foot MR Explorer.  Period.  Anyone buying a canoe should plan an spending a little more for this boat as a starter, then expect to never need to buy another all-around canoe again. See my sig file. — riverman I think, therefore I thwim. Carpe ropum. "There is NO better all around boat (considering performance, versatility, cost, looks, maintenance, etc) than the 16 foot MR Explorer. Period."

Response:

I love Mad River boats BUT one might get a little argument about the Explorer being the best all rounder from Swift Kipawa fans. who would suggest that the Kipawa is more stable more speedy (and faster too) more capacious more maneuverable more white water capable more seaworthy and more perttier. — Lyle

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I recommend a 16 ft Mad River Explorer. Me too. I don’t know how far around the block this conversation has gone, but for my way over 2-cents worth of experience goes, there is NO better all around boat (considering performance, versatility, cost, looks, maintenance, etc) than the 16 foot MR Explorer.  Period.  Anyone buying a canoe should plan an spending a little more for this boat as a starter, then expect to never need to buy another all-around canoe again. See my sig file. — riverman I think, therefore I thwim. Carpe ropum. "There is NO better all around boat (considering performance, versatility, cost, looks, maintenance, etc) than the 16 foot MR Explorer. Period."

Response:

I recommend a 16 ft Mad River Explorer. Me too. I don’t know how far around the block this conversation has gone, but for my way over 2-cents worth of experience goes, there is NO better all around boat (considering performance, versatility, cost, looks, maintenance, etc) than the 16 foot MR Explorer.  Period.  Anyone buying a canoe should plan an spending a little more for this boat as a starter, then expect to never need to buy another all-around canoe again. See my sig file.

If you want one boat that will do everything, I agree (though I haven’t tried the Swift).  If you want a boat for primarily or exclusively flatwater, then there are better choices out there in composite/fiberglass/kevlar — Andrew

Response:

I recommend a 16 ft Mad River Explorer.

It’s been a while since I purchased my first boat, and I don’t know much about what’s out there, but my general comment would be buy the best boat you can afford.  Don’t spare the horses.  Talk to people in a local canoe and kayak club, and get their recommendations on brands. Tell them what you want to do with the boat–that’s the important part.

Response:

I recommend a 16 ft Mad River Explorer. It’s been a while since I purchased my first boat, and I don’t know much about what’s out there, but my general comment would be buy the best boat you can afford.  Don’t spare the horses.  Talk to people in a local canoe and kayak club, and get their recommendations on brands. Tell them what you want to do with the boat–that’s the important part.

I’ve been a kayaker for a while now, but just recently my new girlfriend wanted a canoe for us.  Have been looking for a used Royalite, or Royalex canoe for a couple months — just today we found it! I consulted with other canoe-types in the club, and this Mohawk Nova 16 (or other similar brands/models) seemed to do it all.  It is Royalex.  This is the exact one we got today, used for $500 with four float bags.  Boats like this are sort of "Do It All" dealies. Each time some new person asks "Which Canoe should i get?" i always say ‘Buy a used, decent brand’ and this is the first time i’ve had to try it out. We like this boat!

Response:

I recommend a 16 ft Mad River Explorer. I own both an Old Town Discovery and the Explorer, and find the Old Town is too heavy to carry any distance (not to mention lift). The Explorer is lighter, handles better, and yes, it’s easier on the eyes. The Discovery might plow through rocks better, but takes on water in the slightest chops. I used to own a Coleman, I’m glad it died an ugly rocky death long ago. http://www.geocities.com/Yosemite/Rapids/5189/index.htm Reach out and touch a rock – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Hello! I realize that this has probably been beaten to death until some are sick of it, but being new to this group, thought I’d seek some advice anyway. Am going to buy a canoe this spring, & am in a quandry about the wisest choice, while still keeping to a reasonable price. Having seen very few used canoes for sale in my area, so looks like it might be a new canoe. I plan to use the canoe for hitting some lakes in my region with my sons….do some fly fishing, canoe camp occasionally, that type of thing. If the canoe I end up getting is worthy, the canoe might see some river use (probably nothing worse than Class II, possibly a little Class III, but maybe not), & might also make it to such places as Bowron Lakes & Myrtle Lake in B.C. for more extended canoe camping & paddling (with more portages, a person should start looking at weight….now the cost of the lighter canoes jumps up & introduces itself). I’ve looked at Old Town, Wenonah, Mad River, etc. A person could spend $1000 – $1400 for one of their lighter canoes, or could pay ~$700 for an Old Town Discovery that would suit the bill, but is somewhat heavier. Might also look at a Marathon, Grumman, Osagian, or Alumaweld aluminum canoe as well in that price range. Money being an object here, the price of a Coleman canoe (go ahead, let me have it!) locally is $269 – $319 looks pretty attractive. I know the Coleman would be a rugged, durable canoe. Trying to decide if it’s wiser to get a lighter, more quality designed canoe that would be more versatile in the long term, even if I have to charge !/2 of it or more, or pay cash for something like a Coleman since I’m fairly new to the sport, & would welcome advice from those who have already made such decisions. Would also welcome info about used canoes for sale where freight to eastern Washington wouldn’t be a deterrant. Thanks!

Response:

The coleman is a good boat for short paddles around a quiet lake once in a while

With a dang, clanging Coleman, the lake’s not going to stay quiet for long. It’s practically a percussion instrument Eddy "Colemans are for keeping beer cool" Rapid.

Response:

It sounds like you’ve been doing your research.  I agree with all your points. About three years ago, I faced the same question.  Like you, I wanted the best for the least.  I purchased a OT Disco158.  I like it fine but if I had the opportunity to make that decision again, I would save a little more money and by the lighter boat with a more efficient hull.  I use it mostly for day paddling with my wife or fishing with my children.  I’ve run a class III in it but don’t suggest it.  I’ve paddled it 32 miles through the Okeefenokee swamp and camped out of it.  I am not interested in getting rid of it but, would not buy another. I understand the Disco169 has a more efficient hull but, it weighs in at a hefty 85lbs. You will find that weight makes more of a difference than you think.  I can car-top my 80lb canoe by myself but "it ain’t pretty."  The yolk makes it easier to carry but it still weighs 80lbs.  A lighter canoe will respond better to corrections/steering and may even be a little faster. If you can stand to wait, I’d recommend it.  You’ll just end up wanting to buy different one in a few years.  I would have by now but I am discovering both sea and whitewater kayaks! Oh yeah, one other thing.  If you really think you’re going to enjoy the sport, don’t give the Coleman too much thought.  You really DO get what you pay for in a canoe. Eric da Grate – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Hello! I realize that this has probably been beaten to death until some are sick of it, but being new to this group, thought I’d seek some advice anyway. Am going to buy a canoe this spring, & am in a quandry about the wisest choice, while still keeping to a reasonable price. Having seen very few used canoes for sale in my area, so looks like it might be a new canoe. I plan to use the canoe for hitting some lakes in my region with my sons….do some fly fishing, canoe camp occasionally, that type of thing. If the canoe I end up getting is worthy, the canoe might see some river use (probably nothing worse than Class II, possibly a little Class III, but maybe not), & might also make it to such places as Bowron Lakes & Myrtle Lake in B.C. for more extended canoe camping & paddling (with more portages, a person should start looking at weight….now the cost of the lighter canoes jumps up & introduces itself). I’ve looked at Old Town, Wenonah, Mad River, etc. A person could spend $1000 – $1400 for one of their lighter canoes, or could pay ~$700 for an Old Town Discovery that would suit the bill, but is somewhat heavier. Might also look at a Marathon, Grumman, Osagian, or Alumaweld aluminum canoe as well in that price range. Money being an object here, the price of a Coleman canoe (go ahead, let me have it!) locally is $269 – $319 looks pretty attractive. I know the Coleman would be a rugged, durable canoe. Trying to decide if it’s wiser to get a lighter, more quality designed canoe that would be more versatile in the long term, even if I have to charge !/2 of it or more, or pay cash for something like a Coleman since I’m fairly new to the sport, & would welcome advice from those who have already made such decisions. Would also welcome info about used canoes for sale where freight to eastern Washington wouldn’t be a deterrant. Thanks!

Response:

Hello! I realize that this has probably been beaten to death…    

                        ~* s n i p *~ If you don’t mind the $65 or so shipping charge, try calling one of the companies someone mentioned else mentioned earlier: Rutabaga in Madison, Wisconsin sells LOTS of boats.  They always have new Old Town blems on hand at a greatly reduced rate.  Not a bad deal for a first boat.   They will be getting lots of used boats in another month after their annual "Canoecopia" show; many people will be trading in their boats for something new. Give them a call at 800-472-3353 (800-I-PADDLE) or check out their website:  www.paddlers.com Tell Darren I sent ya. Good luck. — To reply by email, remove mapson. from the edress Check out the links page at this site: www.paddlers.com

Response:

Thank you all for the replies & advice. I realize that researching a purchase like this, then even trying out different boats would be the best of all worlds, but hearing from folks that have been there is also a definite help. Thanks again!

Response:

If the Coleman is the only way you are going to get on the water, do it!  If you want a boat, get one of the others.  Go demo some boats. The newsgroups cannot tell you how you will feel in a boat.  you need to try them.  Borrow a Coleman and then you can feel the pain in your lower back as you haul it to the water.  Then you will be informed. Try a lake boat with a keel in a moving river and learn why a keel is not too swell in moving water.   – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Hello! I realize that this has probably been beaten to death until some are sick of it, but being new to this group, thought I’d seek some advice anyway. Am going to buy a canoe this spring, & am in a quandry about the wisest choice, while still keeping to a reasonable price. Having seen very few used canoes for sale in my area, so looks like it might be a new canoe. I plan to use the canoe for hitting some lakes in my region with my sons….do some fly fishing, canoe camp occasionally, that type of thing. If the canoe I end up getting is worthy, the canoe might see some river use (probably nothing worse than Class II, possibly a little Class III, but maybe not), & might also make it to such places as Bowron Lakes & Myrtle Lake in B.C. for more extended canoe camping & paddling (with more portages, a person should start looking at weight….now the cost of the lighter canoes jumps up & introduces itself). I’ve looked at Old Town, Wenonah, Mad River, etc. A person could spend $1000 – $1400 for one of their lighter canoes, or could pay ~$700 for an Old Town Discovery that would suit the bill, but is somewhat heavier. Might also look at a Marathon, Grumman, Osagian, or Alumaweld aluminum canoe as well in that price range. Money being an object here, the price of a Coleman canoe (go ahead, let me have it!) locally is $269 – $319 looks pretty attractive. I know the Coleman would be a rugged, durable canoe. Trying to decide if it’s wiser to get a lighter, more quality designed canoe that would be more versatile in the long term, even if I have to charge !/2 of it or more, or pay cash for something like a Coleman since I’m fairly new to the sport, & would welcome advice from those who have already made such decisions. Would also welcome info about used canoes for sale where freight to eastern Washington wouldn’t be a deterrant. Thanks!

patrickatcyberhighwaydotnet

Response:

Hello!

Well hello to you! I know the Coleman would be a rugged, durable canoe.

Actually, they aren’t.  Not compared to Old Town, Mad RIver, Mohawk, etc.  I wouldn’t want to hit too many rocks with a coleman.  Aluminum canoes are extremely durable, but, and this is a BIG BUTT, it’s hard to keep the suckers quiet.  Each and every time you place your paddle in the boat, you and every fish within 300 feet will hear the ‘thud’. I hear the Boy Scouts using them all the time at Upper Priest lake in Idaho…very noisy. already made such decisions. Would also welcome info about used canoes for sale where freight to eastern Washington wouldn’t be a deterrant. Thanks!

You live around here in Spokane?  You join the Spokane Canoe and Kayak Club yet?  I’m the newsletter editor.  We’re having our largest meeting/auction/potluck of the year come February 26th — next friday. If you wanna see a LOT of activity, come see it.  Email me if you want more info.

Response:

For the money you’re looking to spend, I would suggest you test paddle an OT Penobscot 17.  I’ve used mine quite a bit on lakes in minneapolis and in the BWCA.  It’s got moderate initial stability, fantastic secondary stability.  It has no rocker so it tracks like a arrow, but turns like a pig.  Leaning into a turn can give you a good bit of effective rocker.  Its a great tripping boat.

Response:

Tom, I was in your position a few years ago, let me tell you what I bought. I found that the best tradeoff for weight, durability, and cost, for lake and occasional class I/II rivers is fiberglass.  Not the cheap chopper gun variety, but a canoe made up of decent sheet materials.  I chose a Wenonah, largely because I have a great local dealer who sells them (as well as Mad River). Fiberglass advantages are hull stiffness without bulk which = paddling efficiency, no flex while paddling, easily repairable if it does become damaged, etc.  Fiberglass slips across rocks in a low water condition much better than aluminum – avoid that material at all costs if you plan on running low water.  About the only disadvantage is that the gel coat looks beautiful when new, and quickly gets scraped up pretty bad – but that means you’re actually USING the boat, doesn’t it? Your ideal boat in a plastic would be royalex – much lighter than the Old Town crosslink.  It’s well worth the upgrade cost.  I see tons of the Discovery boats for sale – and no royalex boats for sale!! You don’t find many (good) canoes for sale, because most people have no reason to sell them! They’re not that expensive, and last a lifetime with reasonable care. Good luck! Lou – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Hello! I realize that this has probably been beaten to death until some are sick of it, but being new to this group, thought I’d seek some advice anyway. Am going to buy a canoe this spring, & am in a quandry about the wisest choice, while still keeping to a reasonable price. Having seen very few used canoes for sale in my area, so looks like it might be a new canoe. I plan to use the canoe for hitting some lakes in my region with my sons….do some fly fishing, canoe camp occasionally, that type of thing. If the canoe I end up getting is worthy, the canoe might see some river use (probably nothing worse than Class II, possibly a little Class III, but maybe not), & might also make it to such places as Bowron Lakes & Myrtle Lake in B.C. for more extended canoe camping & paddling (with more portages, a person should start looking at weight….now the cost of the lighter canoes jumps up & introduces itself). I’ve looked at Old Town, Wenonah, Mad River, etc. A person could spend $1000 – $1400 for one of their lighter canoes, or could pay ~$700 for an Old Town Discovery that would suit the bill, but is somewhat heavier. Might also look at a Marathon, Grumman, Osagian, or Alumaweld aluminum canoe as well in that price range. Money being an object here, the price of a Coleman canoe (go ahead, let me have it!) locally is $269 – $319 looks pretty attractive. I know the Coleman would be a rugged, durable canoe. Trying to decide if it’s wiser to get a lighter, more quality designed canoe that would be more versatile in the long term, even if I have to charge !/2 of it or more, or pay cash for something like a Coleman since I’m fairly new to the sport, & would welcome advice from those who have already made such decisions. Would also welcome info about used canoes for sale where freight to eastern Washington wouldn’t be a deterrant. Thanks!

Response:

Hello! I realize that this has probably been beaten to death until some are sick of it, but being new to this group, thought I’d seek some advice anyway. Am going to buy a canoe this spring, & am in a quandry about the wisest choice, while still keeping to a reasonable price. Having seen very few used canoes for sale in my area, so looks like it might be a new canoe. I plan to use the canoe for hitting some lakes in my region with my sons….do some fly fishing, canoe camp occasionally, that type of thing. If the canoe I end up getting is worthy, the canoe might see some river use (probably nothing worse than Class II, possibly a little Class III, but maybe not), & might also make it to such places as Bowron Lakes & Myrtle Lake in B.C. for more extended canoe camping & paddling (with more portages, a person should start looking at weight….now the cost of the lighter canoes jumps up & introduces itself). I’ve looked at Old Town, Wenonah, Mad River, etc. A person could spend $1000 – $1400 for one of their lighter canoes, or could pay ~$700 for an Old Town Discovery that would suit the bill, but is somewhat heavier. Might also look at a Marathon, Grumman, Osagian, or Alumaweld aluminum canoe as well in that price range. Money being an object here, the price of a Coleman canoe (go ahead, let me have it!) locally is $269 – $319 looks pretty attractive. I know the Coleman would be a rugged, durable canoe. Trying to decide if it’s wiser to get a lighter, more quality designed canoe that would be more versatile in the long term, even if I have to charge !/2 of it or more, or pay cash for something like a Coleman since I’m fairly new to the sport, & would welcome advice from those who have already made such decisions. Would also welcome info about used canoes for sale where freight to eastern Washington wouldn’t be a deterrant. Thanks!

Response:

Hello! I realize that this has probably been beaten to death until some are sick of it, but being new to this group, thought I’d seek some advice anyway. Am going to buy a canoe this spring, & am in a quandry about the wisest choice, while still keeping to a reasonable price. Having seen very few used canoes for sale in my area, so looks like it might be a new canoe.

Yes, it has been done a lot, infact I bet a search on dejanews (www.dejanews.com) would answer most if not all your questions. The coleman is a good boat for short paddles around a quiet lake once in a while, or for giving to a scout troop to learn in (cheap and nigh on industructible).  I have an old town discovery 164 which is about the same as the penobscott, just weighs more… a lot more on a long portage. Personally I’d look around for a used good boat, and stay away from the colemans. Hope this helps Rich Johnson Enfield Nova Scotia Canada

Response:

For flatwater, class I and Class II a good quality fiberglass (cloth, not spray in chopper gun) canoe would be the best bet.  I’d look for a used one, some places (like Rutabaga in Madison, WI and Piragis in ELY, MN) sell a number of used boats like that.  A new We-No-Nah in Tufweave (fiberglass like) can be had for $8-900.  Western Canoeing has similar boats.  Used Kevlar could be in the same range, used fiberglass less. These would work for Class I, not good for Class III, Class II depends on skill level.  For mostly whitewater, Royalex is a better choice, but maybe you can borrow a canoe for those infrequent forays?  It will be heavier and harder to paddle.  Coleman’s are a poor design, Discovery’s are (in the 16′ 9" and 17′ 4" versions) an okay design, but overy heavy and don’t have the long term durability of Royalex. Aluminum is a fine material for flatwater, as good or better than plastic, but can be dangerous in whitewater and a pain in shallow rivers as it tends to stick to rocks, so it’s easy to get stuck and broach. I’d rather (actually I do) have a 17′ Grumman than a Coleman or Discovery. I’d look for a quality fiberglass or used Kevlar boat from We-No-Nah, Mad River, Western, Sawyer. — Andrew Gooding

Response:

Question:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Just melt the last inch or so of the coating of your line with nail polish remover; open the core of the line with a needle; poke the butt end of your leader into the core; and apply some Crazy Glue.  It will never let go.  The only leader knot you need to know is a blood knot. JB: thanks for the new (to me ) idea… I had just posted my favorite way (fast  nail knot of a piece of mono, then blood knots) when I read this.  It looks  more like an ‘at home’ method, vs. on stream, I think, but has clear  advantages for ease of going through the guides.  I’m gonna do it on my next  connection. thanks, Alan Alan E. Hoover Anglers’ Rest Powhatan, Va        *the trout teach many, lessons*

Has anyone tried this method: A guy I know claims to do the same (melt w/acetone) and then pushes the outer part back. He then loops the inner part; ties it off with a nail knot, etc. Here is the part I’ve had no luck with: he then claims to push the outer part back over the knot and therefore this should make a pretty neat sleeve. He then coats it with Aquaseal. I can’t seem to push it over the knot!!!

Response:

I’m new to fly fishing. I’ve read the instructions on connecting the leader to the fly line using a nail knot or a Duncan loop(same as uni-knot right?). I had a knotless tapered leader with a 3X tippet. Connecting the stiff butt to the line was harder than I thought. I was able to do it but ended up with a kink in the connection. Is this okay? I’m still learning to cast so I’m not sure if it affects proper casting. I finally just connected 30lb mono, which was easier to work with, to the fly line and spliced the mono to the leader butt with 2 surgeon’s loops. Is this better than a kinked connection. TIA for any info.

Just melt the last inch or so of the coating of your line with nail polish remover; open the core of the line with a needle; poke the butt end of your leader into the core; and apply some Crazy Glue.  It will never let go.  The only leader knot you need to know is a blood knot. JB

Response:

Just melt the last inch or so of the coating of your line with nail polish remover; open the core of the line with a needle; poke the butt end of your leader into the core; and apply some Crazy Glue.  It will never let go.  The only leader knot you need to know is a blood knot.

JB: thanks for the new (to me ) idea… I had just posted my favorite way (fast  nail knot of a piece of mono, then blood knots) when I read this.  It looks  more like an ‘at home’ method, vs. on stream, I think, but has clear  advantages for ease of going through the guides.  I’m gonna do it on my next  connection. thanks, Alan Alan E. Hoover Anglers’ Rest Powhatan, Va        *the trout teach many, lessons*

Response:

I’ve been reading this thread since it started, trying to work up the courage to make an embarassing confession. After tying nail knots and loops for many years I’ve reverted to my origional method of tying a simple overhand knot in the end of my line,cinching it down tight, passing the end of the flyline through the loop in my leader and tying another overhand knot.

Jim; The nail-knot was one of the more enigmatic facets of flyfishing for several years: trout are midging?: no problem, hiting emergers and not duns?, not problem, nail-knot?: problem! Lefty showed me a simpler way to tie it without any kind of fancy tubes,and all the nail did was to help add support and to allow the line something *stiff* to wrap around. Borger, though, has, by far, the easiest method to tie nail-knots.  Try this with a rope kit first, though.  All he does is make an over-hand knot with loose wraps, and then twists the line as he tightens it.  The line spirals around itself and makes those great, perfect coils of a nail knot.  Also, he keeps the loops somewhat separated to allow fly line to pinch or squeeze-up through the loops and make a more integral connection. I know probably none of this has helped solve your problems, but maybe it gets you on the right track. Jason Beary.

Response:

Jason, I was hoping someone would come upon Lefty’s method of tying a nail knot….  aka "a fast nail knot’  see also his two books on knots..  I use a large paper  clip, kept in my leader wallet for this purpose.   and have more than once  helped a friend or other on stream in the middle of the water tie a nail knot  onto a fly line.   I prefer to use a piece of heavy mono, the blood knot the  leader to this…. but either will work.   And with heavy fish the nail knot  slides in and out of the tip top and guides without hang ups… at home to  enhance this feature add a bit of nail polish or head cement to round the  edges…. The use of "orvis" loops on the end is ok,  just not as completely satisfactory  as the nail knot system IMHO. There clearly are more than one solution to this… but if folks ever learned  the fast nail knot system, they might not want to do anything else. cheers, Alan Alan E. Hoover Anglers’ Rest Powhatan, Va        *the trout teach many, lessons*

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I’m new to fly fishing. I’ve read the instructions on connecting the leader to the fly line using a nail knot or a Duncan loop(same as uni-knot right?). I had a knotless tapered leader with a 3X tippet. Connecting the stiff butt to the line was harder than I thought. I was able to do it but ended up with a kink in the connection. Is this okay? I’m still learning to cast so I’m not sure if it affects proper casting. I finally just connected 30lb mono, which was easier to work with, to the fly line and spliced the mono to the leader butt with 2 surgeon’s loops. Is this better than a kinked connection. TIA for any info. Just melt the last inch or so of the coating of your line with nail polish remover; open the core of the line with a needle; poke the butt end of your leader into the core; and apply some Crazy Glue.  It will never let go.  The only leader knot you need to know is a blood knot. JB

You got that right JB, my Krazy Glue connection has held up now for 3 years on my 6 wt, tussled with some feisty smallmouth and looks as good as ever. I will add to the blood knot, the double surgeon’s loop knot  ’cause I can’t tie a blood knot in the smaller diameter tippets. Frank Church Hi Frank.  I didn’t know how that message would go over with the LL Bean crowd that seems to populate the group.  But, I’ve fished with the Krazy Glue method since my buddy in Florida told me about it three years ago.  He fishes sea trout and tarpon.  I’ve caught several 15 – 25 lb Atlantic salmon with it.   I always "put the wood" to fish, and the glue has never let go. JB

Response:

Quoting what I said …  As you do it over the years, other ideas will make more sense and you will switch, but in general it makes fair sense to trust your own judgment as to whether something is reasonable or not…. Jim Robinson wrote as follows: I’ve been reading this thread since it started, trying to work up the courage to make an embarassing confession. After tying nail knots and loops for many years I’ve reverted to my origional method of tying a simple overhand knot in the end of my line,cinching it down tight, passing the end of the flyline through the loop in my leader and tying another overhand knot. I guess I don’t have to tell you it’s not elegant but it’s held a couple of huge carp, a few nice bass and skads of decent pan fish without a failure….

Jim:         Nice to see that one’s words seem to have a certain validity. I am a devotee of the "using a slip-on loop out of braided stuff" on the end of my flyline, but what you do rings a bell because I got to securing the loop with a bit of flexible goopish cement. Well, one time it was really thick on there and I noticed my casts seemed to go out lots nicer. Figured it was the extra weight right there at the end

Question:

A good friend of mine is an outfitter in Montana and has just finished   his new web site. He was to bashful to post the address on this BB, but I’m not! Check it out at: http://www.iigi.comos/montana/diamondn/diamondn.htm Catch ya later Dale Owens

Response:

Correction on the web site address: note that all slashes are forward. I typed one in as a back slash by mistake. Dale

Response:

Question:

Howdy, I’m going to be in Salt Lake City the week of March 18th for Brainshare. I’m staying over for the weekend   following, and I’d like to fish a little. I’ll be able to take along a travel rod, but I won’t be able to   take waders. I’d appreciate any recommendations for spots in the area where I can fish from the bank. What   kind of flies should I use? How much is a one day (or two, or whatever they have) non-resident permit? Any   good shops there where I could pick up some flies? Thanks a bunch, Jay Jay Freeman WT9S                            Life Member, NRA

Response:

        Jay,         First off you’re going to love Brainshare.  Novell does a really nice job with the show.  Many of my friends are in charge of it so I am a little bias. As far as fishing is concerned I would suggest many of the unheard of streams around the valley.  Many people go to the Provo or the Weber, both of those two rivers have very nice Browns, but unfortunately the whole rest of SLC knows this too.  Soooo if you like fishing shoulder to shoulder then go to the Provo. I would be glad to share a little of my secrets with you.  That is if you like to have 20 to 25 fish days. "Fish On!" Stacy Hale

Response:

Try the Provo or the Green.  Try Steve Schmidt at Western Rivers for Provo information and guides – 801-521-6424.  For the Green, I call Denny Breer at Trout Creek – 801-889-3735.  

Response:

Jay, There is not that much good fly fishing within a short drive of Salt Lake City, particulary in March.  The best bet is the Provo River, which is about a 45 min drive south on I 15, exit 275 just before you get to Provo.  Fishing can be tremendous on this river.  It is loaded with brown trout.  Many times the fishing varies with the flow level of the river, but in March the river should be fishable.  However, I’m not sure how much success you would have fishing from the shore.  To get to some of the productive holes and runs you have to wade and there are not that many clear bank areas along the river that allow you to easily toss your fly into good water.  Even if you don’t wade it’s worth the time to go down anyway.  Provo canyon is pretty.  As for flies I would recommend small nymphs, size 16 and up.  Keep the flies simple, just some pink or lite grey yarn wrapped around a hook will produce on this river.  Hare’s ears are good, brassies, pheasant tail, scuds, and serendipidities are very productive.  Be sure to weigth the nympth enough to get it to the bottom.  You’ll only occassionally see fish rise in this river.  As for a license.   I don’t remember what a non-resident day pass costs.  But I do know that Utah is not aggressive in ensuring people have fishing licenses.  For more info on where to fish contact Anglers Inn in Salt Lake or Western Rivers Fly Shop in Salt Lake.  I hope you have fun.

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Howdy, I’m going to be in Salt Lake City the week of March 18th for Brainshare. I’m staying over for the weekend following, and I’d like to fish a little. I’ll be able to take along a travel rod, but I won’t be able to take waders. I’d appreciate any recommendations for spots in the area where I can fish from the bank. What kind of flies should I use? How much is a one day (or two, or whatever they have) non-resident permit? Any good shops there where I could pick up some flies? Thanks a bunch, Jay Jay Freeman WT9S                            Life Member, NRA

– Jay,   I work in a fly shop here in Provo and fish the Provo two to three times a week and its not too shabby.  Your time frame should put you in excellent shape for the spring baetis hatch.  A one day none resident liscence is $5 or $15 for three days.  The Provo is also good for non-waders in a lot of spots.  Its probalbly one of my favorite rivers to fish.  This weekend I picked up a lot of nice fish with midges on top.  Nothing beats dry fly action in the winter.  Check out my fly page for the latest info when you come.  Our shop is called Great Basin Fly and is located at 120 W Center ST in Provo.  We can fix you up with some good flies and info. Curtis Fry Fry’s Utah Fly Fishing Page http://www.et.byu.edu/~fryc

Response:

Don’t forget the Bone’s on the flats of Great Salt lake…I hear it’s excellent that time of year with large schools of hungry bonefish finin’ just off shore!

Response:

Question:

I plan on going fishing this weekend in Farmingham, Ct.  Any suggestions about where to eat, sleep. fish and drink.  Thanking you in advance for your help

I’ve lived in Connecticut for some 40 years, and haven’t encountered Farmingham, but then I’m always learning a new name for the 169 towns and hundreds more villages in this State.. However, I suspect you mean Farmington, and refer to the Farmington River, not the town located somewhat to the west of Hartford. The river has a trout management (catch and release) area extending about 5 miles north of the town of New Hartford which has some of the best fishing in Connecticut at this time of year because it is a cool-running tailwater. In my experience and because of that, it gets pounded at this time of year. However, it holds good fish and they are often catchable.   Check with the Classic and Custom FLy Shop in New Hartford for conditions, etc. (203) 738-3597. Good luck.

Response:

I usually stay at the Hillside Motel, eat breakfast (blueberry pancakes) at Six-Ds and dinner at Athena pizzeria near Satan’s Kingdom. Custom and Classic is a good shop for fishing supplies but don’t call — the fishing is always great. They don’t sell licenses but can direct you to the hunting/fishing shop about a mile away. Definitely buy the Farmington River Anglers Association book and call their hotline (203) 738-7327 before your next trip. The catch and release TMA is crowded weekends but I go because I never get skunked. Caught a bunch of 11-12 inch browns last trip by rollcasting #18 ants on 7x Orvis fluorocarbon out to steady risers at the boneyards but they are EXTREMELY leader and micro-drag shy. The minature salmon are everywhere and can actually be a nuisance. Doug Johnson Stratus Computer, Marlborough, MA

Response:

Question:

I’m looking for a high quality 9-weight rod I can use for saltwater (blues and stripers) and freshwater (bass)? Any recommendations other than Orvis and Sage?

I use a custom built rod using a GLoomis IMX 9.5′/9wt 2pc blank (model FR1149, if I remember correctly). This is a cannon of a rod and is able to punch soggy 2/0 flies into the typical New England ocean winds with aplomb, and fight the big guys to the beach. I’ve landed some good-size bluefish (14~15 lbs) against an outgoing tide at the mouth of the Merrimack with this rod. It casts more like a 10wt than a 9 so I’ve overloaded it by one line size, and I’ve used a Teeny T500 (the ultimate depth charge) on it with no surprises. If you have the forearm for it, I highly recommend a similar rod for grownup blues and stripers… /dave <<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<< < Digital Equipment Corp.    Alpha Server Engineering  < <           "Read this and nobody gets hurt"           < <<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<

Response:

Try Scott, they make a beautiful rod to cast

Response:

Ken Lindsay Fly Fishing Online http://www.flyfishing-online.com

Ken: Your Web page is dysfunctional; it apparently needs a little virtual therapy, or perhaps some head cement. I have a little GL3– a 78" for 3, but prefer my Loomis IMX rods for the bigger rivers, longer casts and heavier winds.

Response:

I’m looking for a high quality 9-weight rod I can use for saltwater (blues and stripers) and freshwater (bass)? Any recommendations other than Orvis and Sage? Thanks. David

Response:

Winston… it’s the only rod.  See other’s comments in "What do you think of Winston Rods" subject messages Karl the Bass

Response:

Try the Loomis GLX series. They are really powerful. Another rod   to try would be the Redingtons. THe price is considerably lower   than the big boys and they have super actions. Good Luck, Ken Lindsay Fly Fishing Online http://www.flyfishing-online.com

Response:

I’m looking for a high quality 9-weight rod I can use for saltwater (blues and stripers) and freshwater (bass)? Any recommendations other than Orvis and Sage? Thanks. David

You should take a good look at Powell Rods. They are very high quality and a goof bargan for the quality.

Response:

I’m looking for a high quality 9-weight rod I can use for saltwater (blues and stripers) and freshwater (bass)? Any recommendations other than Orvis and Sage?

Loomis makes some great rods.  Both the GLX (high end) and GL3 ( mid range) are good values fo rthe money.  The GL3 is the fastest rod I know of in the 200-250 price range.                  /                 /                   John Woodling                /                    Sacramento, CA                   <     <

Response:

I’m looking for a high quality 9-weight rod I can use for saltwater (blues and stripers) and freshwater (bass)? Any recommendations other than Orvis and Sage? Thanks. David

I like the J.K. Fisher GT40 9/10, very powerful. My friend’s Scott Heli Ply seems real nice too. Fin Nor is selling rods under their name built on GT40 blanks too. Neither of these rods are cheap, but they’re both fine sticks.                                                         john cloyd

Response:

I’m looking for a high quality 9-weight rod I can use for saltwater (blues and stripers) and freshwater (bass)? Any recommendations other than Orvis and Sage? Thanks. David

One of the best  rods for the money is a ST Croix Legend. They are made in Wis. and have a lifetime warrantee.  The list price for a  9′ 8/9 wt is $210.  IM-6 type  42,000,000 modulus.

Response:

Question:

Can anyone give me any advise re using float tubes for fishing ? Anyone with any experiences pro or con would be appreciated. Thanks, Ron Ronald W Becker California " looking here and there for an interesting sight or two"

Response:

Can anyone give me any advise re using float tubes for fishing ? Anyone with any experiences pro or con would be appreciated. Thanks, Ron

    My advise, as both a warm and cold water tuber, is to borrow one and fish the waters where you will want to spend most of your time. Find out as cheaply as possable if it is for you. Ask your fishing buddies or the tubers that you see at your lake. Folks love to share their experiences!     You will hear that one type of geer is best or that you will need such and such a thing, unless you have money to burn go slow. Some of the young guys like to use big hard fins that would kill me. So what is perfect for others is not always right for you. I started out with the cheapest, bare bones tube that I could find. Fished it for large mouth bass in warm water for a spring/summer and was quite happy with what I could do with it. So, the next spring I took it up into the mountains, 10,000 feet, high and cold. Found out that I needed more stuff, neophrene waiders, thermals, and an air pump. My point is, to not buy everything that you think that you could possiably ever need when you start. Grow into it.     Also, after a couple tubes, I found that the delux, high priced models, didn’t really improve the experience for me and infact made it somewhat more difficult because I tended to fill up all the pockets with stuff and then had to carry/kick the added weight. Though for equipment junkies the added features is just great.      Tubes are great in my opinion, and if you think that you are interested in the quiet, solitude, control, and exercise, go for it! brian

Response:

Can anyone give me any advise re using float tubes for fishing ? Anyone with any experiences pro or con would be appreciated. Thanks, Ron

I was thinking of picking up a tube for river and pond fishing around Central Ohio late this summer, but decided on what is known as a kickboat.  If you don’t know, a kickboat is generally a small dual-pontoon type craft, with a fixed seat between the two pontoons.  Advantanges over tubes are that they are more stable, more comfortable, offer more storage, and you can add oar kits and even trolling motors to some.  Disadvantages are that they are slightly bigger, take more time to assemble, and are generally more expensive. I bought a J&R Outfitters Kingfisher III.  It’s a nice boat: the length is about 9′, very well constructed, and assembles very quickly.  I was also able to fit it in the back of my Eagle Talon!  I purchased mine with the optional oar kit (this is a fixed-oar kit with a kick bar to rest your feet), and a rear storage/cooler rack (will support up to 50 pounds).  The boat supports a total of 450 pounds, and again, is very stable.  I plan to buy the trolling motor when it’s ready in January. Again, they are expensive (I paid a total of 600.00 for the boat, oar kit, and storage rack, and the trolling motor kit will run 400.00), but I think they are better than tubes for a couple of reasons: one, you get a fixed seat with backrest and armrests. Secondly, you can get an oar kit, which is much better than kick-fins in most occassions.  Third, they hold more gear.  Lastly, you can keep your butt dry and not necessarily need waders!  They take a little while to assemble if you don’t put them together before leaving home (mine takes about 20 minutes including the 10 it takes to inflate the pontoons with a hand pump), and are heavy to lug around (although mine is a deluxe: you can get smaller, less expensive units that also weigh less), but I do like mine.   It was great catching the largest smallmouth I’ve ever caught (a little over 4 pounds) on it’s maden voyage! In all honesty, I’ll probably buy a tube this spring for the times I don’t need to cover a lot of water!

Response:

: Can anyone give me any advise re using float tubes for fishing ? : Anyone with any experiences pro or con would be appreciated. : Thanks, Ron : Ronald W Becker : California : " looking here and there for an interesting sight or two"         Hey Ron,         Don’t use them in shark infested waters or in lakes with six foot snappin turtles!! Seriously, I’ve been fly fishing out of one for 2 years and love it. If fly fishing, I recomend at least an 8 ft rod. Also pisses the landlocked guys off when you haul in a trophy right out of their casting range!! Kinda fun!                                         dale — End of network mail

Response:

Can anyone give me any advise re using float tubes for fishing ?

I would like to try this. But I don’t feel comfortable flowing down the river in a tube with myself somewhat tangled in it.  Can someone provide some statistics on the safety issue.  Thanks, Simon  

Response: