Question:

Woman sentenced in racist e-mail hoax

But have they been fishin’? Can they send us a TR? Chris

Response:

Dear Julia.. You are one sick puppy! Woman sentenced in racist e-mail hoax

trash snipped — On my retirement adventure from the rolling hills of the Southern Tier in New York State…..    Traveling in my 1999 Dodge 2500 6-spd diesel, 1999 Sunnybrook 27RKFS 5th-wheel

Response:

Blacks are the foremost perpetrators of "hate crimes". 30,000 White women are raped by black males every year. Over 5,000 Whites are assaulted. 1,800 Whites are murdered by blacks every year in America. Read "The Color of Crime" http://www.amren.com/colrcrim.html                           ||__||           |    Please do   |                          /   O O      |        NOT       |                         /                |     feed the    |                        /                |   the niggers  |                      /    |____        ||                     /     | | | |____/      ||                    /       |_|_|/   |    __ ||                   /  /              |____| ||                  /   |   | /|        |      –  |                  |   |   |//         |____           * _    |  |_|_|_|          |     -/        *– _– _     //           |          /  _     \ _ //   |        /        *  /   _ /- | –     |       |

Response:

Ha! Made you look, cracker!

Response:

Ha! Made you look, cracker!

What does this have to do with skating?

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Blacks are the foremost perpetrators of "hate crimes". 30,000 White women are raped by black males every year. Over 5,000 Whites are assaulted. 1,800 Whites are murdered by blacks every year in America. Read "The Color of Crime" http://www.amren.com/colrcrim.html                           ||__||           |    Please do   |                          /   O O      |        NOT       |                         /                |     feed the    |                        /                |   the niggers  |                      /    |____        ||                     /     | | | |____/      ||                    /       |_|_|/   |    __ ||                   /  /              |____| ||                  /   |   | /|        |      –  |                  |   |   |//         |____           * _    |  |_|_|_|          |     -/        *– _– _     //           |          /  _     \ _ //   |        /        *  /   _ /- | –     |       |

What does this sick stuff have to do with skating?

Response:

Dear Julia.. You are one sick puppy! Woman sentenced in racist e-mail hoax trash snipped

What does this have to do with skating?

Response:

What does this sick stuff have to do with skating?

It is related to Ice Skating in the exact same manner it is related to CD Recorders, GI-Joe toys, Fly Fishing, and Outdoor Travel (cross posted newsgroups).  There is no correlation, it is just some AWM (anger white male) venting their frustrations and showing their ignorance.  It is 2001, even red necks can get on the internet now

Response:

Woman sentenced in racist e-mail hoax BY JENNIFER FEEHAN BLADE STAFF WRITER BOWLING GREEN – A black woman who admitted sending racist e-mail messages to herself was placed on probation yesterday for two years and ordered to write a letter of apology to Bowling Green State University students. Omobonike Odegbami, 27, of Toledo, Ohio pleaded guilty Oct. 27 to tampering with evidence, a third-degree felony. Investigators said she reported to BGSU police in April that she had received threatening, racially charged e-mail from an unknown source. A graduate student at the time, she relayed her story to the campus newspaper, which published a front-page story about the case. Campus police enlisted the aid of the FBI, soon zeroing in on classmates and instructors in Odegbami’s small graduate program. She eventually confessed. Odegbami, appearing yesterday in Wood County Common Pleas Court, apologized before Judge Reeve Kelsey but offered no explanation for her actions. She declined to comment after the sentencing. James Wiegand, director of public safety at BGSU, told Judge Kelsey that university officials are "both disappointed and certainly relieved" at the outcome of the case. He said it is disappointing that a student would go to such lengths to get attention, but a relief that the messages were bogus. Wood County Prosecutor Alan Mayberry said he agreed not to seek a prison sentence as part of a plea deal with Odegbami. However, he said he wants her to obtain counseling and apologize in a letter published in the campus newspaper. Odegbami’s attorney, Stanley Garrett, told the judge his client has no prior criminal record, that she accepts responsibility for what she did, and that she is attending the University of Toledo. Judge Kelsey said Odegbami must perform 200 hours of community service during her two years of community control, continue to undergo mental health counseling at her own expense, and pay all court costs. He warned that if she violates those conditions, she could receive more restrictive sanctions, go to jail for up to six months, or to prison for three years. — Blacks are the foremost perpetrators of "hate crimes". 30,000 White women are raped by black males every year. Over 5,000 Whites are assaulted. 1,800 Whites are murdered by blacks every year in America. Read "The Color of Crime" http://www.amren.com/colrcrim.html

Response:

Soltys Says Victims Tried to ‘Poison’ Him  By KPIX – Ann Notarangelo  Investigators say mass murder suspect Nikolay Soltys claims the family members he’s accused of killing were trying to "poison"  him.  However, language difficulties are making it hard for police to determine if that means Soltys believed his family was trying to  murder him, or simply ruin his reputation.  Police do say that the 27-year-old Ukrainian immigrant is cooperating with the investigation. But they won’t comment on reports  that Soltys has already confessed to the crimes, saying that revealing too many details could damage their case in court.  Soltys is now in protective custody in the county jail, to protect him from other inmates and himself. He was arrested Thursday,  outside his mother’s home in a Sacramento suburb.  Soltys is suspected of killing his wife, son, and four other family members, but police say there’s no evidence he went to his  mother’s house to hurt anyone. Instead, investigators thought the Soltys may have been trying to reach out to his mother. It was  that possibility that inspired police to quietly watch the home since the family chose to leave protective custody earlier this week.  Police also gave Soltys’ mother a panic button to use if her son appeared.  "It’s designed to be a one-button-push call to the 911 operator," said Sgt. Jamie Lewis with the Sacramento County Sheriff’s  Department. "Ultimately, they decided not to use this device, because they wanted to put some distance between them and the  suspect."  But police say that decision backfired. When the family tried to call 911 on the cell phone authorities had also given them, they  mistakenly dialed 119. A store clerk eventually helped them make the call.

Response:

Question:

We are trying to hold a racquetball tournament in Alaska’s bush so we can fly fish.  You want to play too? See below….. On July 22, 16 brave players will walk into the Alaskan Bush. On July 27, only one will leave as Champion. This is more than a tournament, this is an experience of a lifetime. Wildball – as wild as it gets, Alaska. The First Annual Wilderness Limited Racquetball Clinic & Tournament July 22 to 27, 2001 Bentalit Lodge, Alaska http://www.racqcat.com/wiltour.html Clinics Conducted by: Andy Roberts – Former World Champion All Participants Receive: Ektelon’s newest highest rated racquet Exclusive Team Ektelon Clothing and Gear Nordica Hiking Shoes Participant’s Plaque and much more! The New Champion will receive: All of the above Winner’s Leather Jacket with Insignia Handcrafted Native Alaskan Spirit Mask Other Prizes and Recognition For Pricing & More Information: 422-6400. http://www.racqcat.com/wiltour.html Sponsors: Ektelon, The Trent Group, RacquetballCatalog.com and Reiter Pro Sales, Inc. General Manager www.theracquetballcatalog.com Sales: 1-866-4Gear77

Response:

We are trying to hold a racquetball tournament in Alaska’s bush so we can fly fish.  You want to play too?

If you pay expenses I’ll be there. Considering the location, I’ll waive my customary appearance fee. By the way, is this round robin or single elimination? I hope it’s single elimination because I’ll lose my first match so I can do you-know-what. — visit my web site: http://home.earthlink.net/~royalwulff/

Response:

at 4500 a week you may want to play double elimination to get your monies worth. fishworship

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – We are trying to hold a racquetball tournament in Alaska’s bush so we can fly fish.  You want to play too?

Response:

Question:

Skittering is a fantastic technique for catching trout, especially when the caddis are active but it is still deadly during mayfly activity. I learned about it in an old book that had a chapter on the 1920’s Bryson City (Hazel Creek) fishing legend, Mark Cathey. He could subtly vibrate his hand and the energy would transfer to rod/line/fly. The end result being the fly "dancing" on the water. I believe it is so effective because the fly becomes alive, it’s not just another piece of inanimate detritus floating by. It is also very effective with a pupae dropper…. because it also becomes alive. If truth be told, I’ve caught way more trout "skitterin" than dead drifting.

One of the hardest situations, for me, is when the fish want just a bit of vibration or a twitch. It is easy to give a fly significant movement but I find it hard to give just that little shift in position that can indicate life to the fish and bring them to the fly. There are many situations, I feel, where this tiniest amount of movement will trigger a strike, while significant movement or drag will put down the fish. The movement, on slow water, is merely a twitch that makes the fly quiver. This quiver is tough to do but it is one of things I try on tough fish. If you get it right, you frequently get the fish.  Do it wrong and the fish is down. Willi

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – The very first trout that I caught, was taken on a dragging elk hair caddis…. I’ve mentioned this before, but it’s a good time to repeat.  I have often fished with a partner.  We move up the stream together, taking turns fishing.  It’s a good method for critiquing one anther’s technique, in addition to providing company astream.  Very often, while my partner was fishing, I would simply let my fly hang in the current downstream.  This has, over the years, resulted in hundreds of hookups in what would otherwise have been dead time.  This method worked particularly well with elk hair caddis and pass lakes, but many other patterns have also been successful.  Streamers and wet flies, of course, are obvious choices.

If you analyze this and do it in a more purposeful manner, you’d hook even more. Willi

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – The technique is a very active one that thoroughly covers alot of area in a short time. I generally hit each spot with a series of short, dead drift casts. As each cast begins to swing, I raise my rod tip and swing the flies through all likely lies below me with the dry skittering along the top and the wet dragging just under or at the surface. My next coverage will be a cast directly across stream. I immediately raise my rod tip and drag the flies back across the current. My last coverage of an area is a series a upstream casts where I drag the flies back toward me moving downstream at a pretty rapid rate. If no fish were stirred, I move up stream and cover the next section of the stream. Could you clarify this, Willi? Do you first fish the spot thoroughly with dead drifts, and only then try the skittering and dragging?

That’s interesting as there’s a section of the West Branch of the upper Credit that is composed of cascades and pocket water that has never produced much for me on wets.  I’ve never fished it in the manner you described as I’ve always attempted to dead drift all my presentations, dry or wet.  Most of the time, I’ve use heavily dressed dries such as Henryville Specials and only broke out the wets when I’m on the verge of a skunking.  I’ll have to try your more aggressive approach this coming season. Peter Visit The Streamer Page at http://members.home.net/pcharles/streamers/index.html

Response:

Could you clarify this, Willi? Do you first fish the spot thoroughly with dead drifts, and only then try the skittering and dragging?

I usually start out that way because dead drifting has been so ingrained for me. However, once I bring up a fish using a skittering fly, I tend to use the dead drift only for those fish that rose and didn’t take or missed the fly that was given action. I came across this technique through a fortunate accident. Some years ago, I was fishing some pocket water and wasn’t have much luck. As I remember, I was fishing a sizable nymph and decided to change flies. As I began dragging in the fly, it skimmed along the surface and was taken by a nice fish. I figured the fish wanted a dry and fished one in a traditional no drag manner with no results. Then it dawned on me to add some action. Although I’ll frequently twitch caddis dries, the action I give the flies when fishing this technique is much greater. On many of the casts, there is no drag free part of the drift. The fly is dragged across the current and skipped through small pockets and hopped upstream. Not all insects float in a sedate manner like a Mayfly. Many Caddis hop across the surface laying eggs. Stoneflies will "swim" across the surface leaving a wake. Craneflies are very active on the surface. I sometimes try to imitate these but mainly I try to give the fish a vision of something alive and eatable. I have a sense of when this technique will be effective but I’m not aware of all the variables. It is a very aggressive technique that works in summer on hot sunny days. I believe that the pocket water and rapids where I use this technique, although they are often excellent feeding areas for trout, become even more desirable when water temps start rising. The heavily aerated water makes the fish comfortable enough to feed even during the heat of the day. Good fish will move into these shallow aerated areas at these times. I use it most during the hottest part of the summer and usually in the middle of the day but will use it at other times. I use it when I have a sense that the fish are "sulking" or resting, or reluctant to feed. Willi

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Peter,    Would you please describe in more detail the rods you use for this type of fishing? Best regards, Reed http://www.overmywaders.com/ Reed Virtually any trout rod can be used to swing wets but the best rods are slow action ones that are 9′ or greater in length.  The slow action and the length provide greater line control and better roll casting.  With wet fly fishing, you try to avoid false casting and throwing fast, tight loops as you do not want to dry out the fly. Long, slow rods tend to cast gently with big, open loops.  They’ll also usually spey cast well.  Late last season, I bought a 10′ 6" East Branch 4 wt. for swing wets and the line control it afforded me was excellent.  BTW, it’s also best to use a double taper line for the same line control reasons.  I also use an old, very slow 10′ 6" Lamiglass 8/9 wt. for swinging wets to salmon and steelhead. HTH

Peter, If at all possible, can you bring a two-handed or spey rod to the PA clave with you? Yesterday, I was involved in a situation where I couldn’t get my line across the river to a mighty large fish stationed against a cliff wall. I finally realized that short of a boat, the only way I could present a fly due to the trees behind me was with a big ole roll cast of some type. Unfortunately, I can’t roll cast a 4wt 70-80 feet. Than it dawned on me that a spey might be the answer. Anyway, I’ll trade ya some devlish bow&arrow techniques for a basic spey/2-hand lesson at the PA clave<g Yesterday, I enjoyed swingin wets to some cooperative ‘bows. Jeff and I probably caught about 20-30 each…. finally, a day astream in the frozen mountains. We’re headed back out this am once he shows up… Walt

Response:

The very first trout that I caught, was taken on a dragging elk hair caddis….

I’ve mentioned this before, but it’s a good time to repeat.  I have often fished with a partner.  We move up the stream together, taking turns fishing.  It’s a good method for critiquing one anther’s technique, in addition to providing company astream.  Very often, while my partner was fishing, I would simply let my fly hang in the current downstream.  This has, over the years, resulted in hundreds of hookups in what would otherwise have been dead time.  This method worked particularly well with elk hair caddis and pass lakes, but many other patterns have also been successful.  Streamers and wet flies, of course, are obvious choices. Wolfgang

Response:

I’ve mentioned this before, but it’s a good time to repeat.  …… Very often, while my partner was fishing, I would simply let my fly hang in the current downstream.  This has, over the years, resulted in hundreds of hookups in what would otherwise have been dead time.  This method worked particularly well with elk hair caddis and pass lakes, but many other patterns have also been successful.  Streamers and wet flies, of course, are obvious

choices. I’ve mentioned this before as well, but I caught a decent little brown trailing a royal wulff downstream while untangling my line at the reel. Felt lucky, but didn’t feel smart. Joe F.

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Skittering is a fantastic technique for catching trout, especially when the caddis are active but it is still deadly during mayfly activity. I learned about it in an old book that had a chapter on the 1920’s Bryson City (Hazel Creek) fishing legend, Mark Cathey. He could subtly vibrate his hand and the energy would transfer to rod/line/fly. The end result being the fly "dancing" on the water. I believe it is so effective because the fly becomes alive, it’s not just another piece of inanimate detritus floating by. It is also very effective with a pupae dropper…. because it also becomes alive. If truth be told, I’ve caught way more trout "skitterin" than dead drifting. and Steve… that was a fine trout you caught on boone’s that monday afternoon… a nice wild brown. Steve Z., now known as USCG "icebreaker" Zimmerman, caught some fish nymphing today on the Watauga. I caught a bunch of ice and one trout using a yella wooly buggah. –Walt

The very first trout that I caught, was taken on a dragging elk hair caddis.  If there’s a good breeze blowing downstream, I’ll let a mayfly pattern blow in the breeze above a rising fish. Drives ‘em nuts and I’ve had small bows leap out to take it. About the USCG Zimmerman.  Can he be loaned out for some northern ice breaking? Peter Visit The Streamer Page at http://members.home.net/pcharles/streamers/index.html

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Could you clarify this, Willi? Do you first fish the spot thoroughly with dead drifts, and only then try the skittering and dragging? I usually start out that way because dead drifting has been so ingrained for me. However, once I bring up a fish using a skittering fly, I tend to use the dead drift only for those fish that rose and didn’t take or missed the fly that was given action. I’m gonna have to try this more often. Skittering a dry fly worked pretty well in North Carolina last spring, and was recommended to me by Walt Winter. It makes me think of all those time I’ve picked up my dry fly for a cast and pulled it away from a fish. —

Skittering is a fantastic technique for catching trout, especially when the caddis are active but it is still deadly during mayfly activity. I learned about it in an old book that had a chapter on the 1920’s Bryson City (Hazel Creek) fishing legend, Mark Cathey. He could subtly vibrate his hand and the energy would transfer to rod/line/fly. The end result being the fly "dancing" on the water. I believe it is so effective because the fly becomes alive, it’s not just another piece of inanimate detritus floating by. It is also very effective with a pupae dropper…. because it also becomes alive. If truth be told, I’ve caught way more trout "skitterin" than dead drifting. and Steve… that was a fine trout you caught on boone’s that monday afternoon… a nice wild brown. Steve Z., now known as USCG "icebreaker" Zimmerman, caught some fish nymphing today on the Watauga. I caught a bunch of ice and one trout using a yella wooly buggah. –Walt

Response:

If at all possible, can you bring a two-handed or spey rod to the PA clave with you? Yesterday, I was involved in a situation where I couldn’t get my line across the river to a mighty large fish stationed against a cliff wall. I finally realized that short of a boat, the only way I could present a fly due to the trees behind me was with a big ole roll cast of some type. Unfortunately, I can’t roll cast a 4wt 70-80 feet. Than it dawned on me that a spey might be the answer. Anyway, I’ll trade ya some devlish bow&arrow techniques for a basic spey/2-hand lesson at the PA clave<g Yesterday, I enjoyed swingin wets to some cooperative ‘bows. Jeff and I probably caught about 20-30 each…. finally, a day astream in the frozen mountains. We’re headed back out this am once he shows up… Walt

Sounds like you had an awesome day – that many fish during the winter takes some doing.  Magic fly" Sure, I can bring my 8/9 Lamiglass with me.  Though only a 10′ 6" rod, it has a classic spey action and will spey cast the distance you need. Peter Visit The Streamer Page at http://members.home.net/pcharles/streamers/index.html

Response:

Peter,     Thank you. That agrees with my experience. I use a 10′  Chubb 6wt. for much of my wetfly fishing, for all the reasons that you describe. Best regards, Reed http://www.overmywaders.com/ – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Virtually any trout rod can be used to swing wets but the best rods are slow action ones that are 9′ or greater in length.  The slow action and the length provide greater line control and better roll casting.  With wet fly fishing, you try to avoid false casting and throwing fast, tight loops as you do not want to dry out the fly. Long, slow rods tend to cast gently with big, open loops.  They’ll also usually spey cast well.  Late last season, I bought a 10′ 6" East Branch 4 wt. for swing wets and the line control it afforded me was excellent.  BTW, it’s also best to use a double taper line for the same line control reasons.  I also use an old, very slow 10′ 6" Lamiglass 8/9 wt. for swinging wets to salmon and steelhead. HTH Peter Visit The Streamer Page at http://members.home.net/pcharles/streamers/index.html

–

Response:

Could you clarify this, Willi? Do you first fish the spot thoroughly with dead drifts, and only then try the skittering and dragging? I usually start out that way because dead drifting has been so ingrained for me. However, once I bring up a fish using a skittering fly, I tend to use the dead drift only for those fish that rose and didn’t take or missed the fly that was given action.

I’m gonna have to try this more often. Skittering a dry fly worked pretty well in North Carolina last spring, and was recommended to me by Walt Winter. It makes me think of all those time I’ve picked up my dry fly for a cast and pulled it away from a fish. — visit my web site: http://home.earthlink.net/~royalwulff/

Response:

You’d be downgrading that "calibre" part if you ever see me nymph. When dredging, I need all the help I can get.

Oh, if i live long enough I’m sure I will see it, because I’d like to fish with you at least once. And I’m sure you are exaggerating your difficulties. — Wayne Knight Expert in creating tailing loops and windknots Otherwise Fishless in Kansas

Response:

Peter,     Would you please describe in more detail the rods you use for this type of fishing? Best regards, Reed http://www.overmywaders.com/ It’s quite true that the tippet size isn’t a big deal on the swing as the fish tend to charge the fly.  However, on the dead drift part of the cast, the fish do get a good look at it.  In clear water fishing to "educated" trout, I downsize my tippet.  With the long, slow rods I use, the odds of a break-off are reduced. Peter

–

Response:

Peter,    Would you please describe in more detail the rods you use for this type of fishing? Best regards, Reed http://www.overmywaders.com/

Reed Virtually any trout rod can be used to swing wets but the best rods are slow action ones that are 9′ or greater in length.  The slow action and the length provide greater line control and better roll casting.  With wet fly fishing, you try to avoid false casting and throwing fast, tight loops as you do not want to dry out the fly. Long, slow rods tend to cast gently with big, open loops.  They’ll also usually spey cast well.  Late last season, I bought a 10′ 6" East Branch 4 wt. for swing wets and the line control it afforded me was excellent.  BTW, it’s also best to use a double taper line for the same line control reasons.  I also use an old, very slow 10′ 6" Lamiglass 8/9 wt. for swinging wets to salmon and steelhead. HTH Peter Visit The Streamer Page at http://members.home.net/pcharles/streamers/index.html

Response:

Willi suggested we get a thread going on wet fly techniques as it’s an under appreciated approach and one that can produce when other methods fail. Wet fly fishing essentially mimics the emerger stage and normally the flies are fished quite shallow.  Many of us resort to emerger nymphs when we see typical emerger riseforms however, wets were traditionally used years ago under the same conditions and there is no reason why they won’t be effective today. Wet flys come in two basic categories, winged wets such as the Lead Wing Coachman and soft hackle wets typified by the Partridge & Orange. Wet flies can be fished in a variety of ways: dead drifted or swung, as a dry with floatant, in the surface film, just under the surface, or deep like a nymph.  The presentation seeks to mimic a number of insect behaviours; emerging insect migration to the surface or shoreline, female egg laying dives, swimming nymphs, drowned spinners, emerger struggling through the surface tension, and the actual emergence of adult from the pupal/nymphal shuck. Considering this range of behaviours, any motion imparted to the fly should be at slow speed in keeping with the behaviour of the insect. The normal down and across swing first presents the fly with a dead drift, followed by an acceleration during the swing to a stop at the end of the swing.  The angle of the the cast with respect to the current should be dependent on current speed.  In a slow moving flat, the cast should be made at about 90 degrees to the current.  In fast water, the angle should be as little as 30 degrees.  By modifying the angle of the presentation, we can keep the speed of the fly within realistic proportions despite fast or slow current conditions.  In very slow current conditions, a downstream mend can be made to pull the fly along and prevent it from sinking to the bottom.  In still water, use a very slow , hesitating retrieve. In typical moderate currents, I favour an upstream cast at about 45 degrees followed by a highstick dead drift, followed in turn by the normal swing and ended with a Leisering lift.  Strikes can occur at any point and can be particularly difficult to detect in the upstream dead drift section.  If you think you are missing strikes, place a very small indicator a few feet above the fly. Good mending contributes to getting the fly down, keeping a straight line to enhance strike detection and prolonging the dead drift portion.  After the initial upstream cast, I make a series of small mends to prevent a belly from forming.  I’m also raising the rod tip to take up the slack line that accumulates as the fly approaches.  As the fly drifts by me, I prolong the dead drift by dropping the rod tip and continuing to mend.  Once the the line is fully extended and the rod tip is low, I allow the fly to swing in the current, continuing to mend ot keep the line straight.  Once I’ve completed the lift at the end of the drift, I make an upstream lob cast to start the next drift. I try to avoid false-casting as I want the fly to remain wet so it will sink immediately.  False casting will dry it out.  I will false cast though if I’m using a wet to simulate a drowned spinner. Normally I use a long, slow four to six weight rod, a double taper floating line for good mending, long 10′ to 14′ leaders, fine tippet 5X and smaller, and no splitshot.  If I want the wet to sink deep, I use fluorocarbon tippet and a series of upstream mends to get it down. Wets can be employed as a searching pattern or fished to specific fish holding target zones.  During the swing phase, if the fly is deep and passing a good "fishy" spot, gently lift the rod tip so that the fly will swing up like and emerging insect.  If there’s a fish holding there, this behaviour will likely provoke a strike. Wets are a gentle, peaceful, traditional way of fishing and I often resort to it whenever I’m just out fishing to relax.  It lacks the activity of streamer retrieves, the concentration of dries and the indicator watching of nymphing.  Most strikes on the swing are felt rather than seen so intense watching isn’t needed as much.  Tradironal wets, IMHO are the most attractive of trout flys and I enjoy tying them more than any other kind.  If you haven’t tried wet flies before, tie up a bunch and get swinging. Peter

Response:

Willi suggested we get a thread going on wet fly techniques as it’s an under appreciated approach and one that can produce when other methods fail. (good info. snipped Peter

Peter, I will be heading up to the trout streams in the next few days and nymphing or wets will be the rule. Typically, on small streams I resist soft hackle flys because they just don’t get down without weight in the short drifts.  I use an AirFlo leader system. In using soft hackle and streamers should I go to a slow sink or hover leader? — Wayne To Fish is Human….To Release Divine!

Response:

<interesting stuff on wet flies snipped Agree entirely with your thoughts on wet fly fishing.  It’s still used extensively for brownies around where I live in Scotland, on both rivers and on lochs. I find wets tied in the spider style satisfying in their simplicity and aesthetic appeal (i.e. I can tie them) and very effective. One of the things I like is that you can fish the same rig  - I usually only use a single fly  or at most two – upstream or down as the situation demands and you can also cast to rising fish as though you were fishing dries. traprain

Response:

Peter, I will be heading up to the trout streams in the next few days and nymphing or wets will be the rule. Typically, on small streams I resist soft hackle flys because they just don’t get down without weight in the short drifts.  I use an AirFlo leader system. In using soft hackle and streamers should I go to a slow sink or hover leader? — Wayne To Fish is Human….To Release Divine!

As I fish soft hackles as a drowned spinner or emerger, I don’t worry about getting it down too deep.  Most of my stikes have come within the top six inches of the water column.  Soft hackles tied on a traditionalheavy wire wet fly hook like a Mustad 3906 or 3906B will have a pretty good sink rate.  I’ve seen factory wets tied on light wire hooks and these won’t get down much.  I actually prefer to have both with me so I can fish shallow or deep. As far as the Airflo leaders go, a clear intermediate would be my choice.   Peter

Response:

Wet fly fishing essentially mimics the emerger stage and normally the flies are fished quite shallow.

Good wet fly fishing synopsis deleted. As I’ve become more and more disgruntled with using weight, I’ve found myself fishing wet flies, usually soft hackles, more often. My favorite technique, mainly because it is so fun, is one I use in pocket water or rapids. I generally use a cast of two flies.  Sometimes I use two wets, but more often I use a fairly large, bushy dry caddis with a smaller, soft hackle on a dropper of about two feet. I tend to use this technique in the heat of the day or during other times when there’s little surface activity. The technique is a very active one that thoroughly covers alot of area in a short time. I generally hit each spot with a series of short, dead drift casts. As each cast begins to swing, I raise my rod tip and swing the flies through all likely lies below me with the dry skittering along the top and the wet dragging just under or at the surface. My next coverage will be a cast directly across stream. I immediately raise my rod tip and drag the flies back across the current. My last coverage of an area is a series a upstream casts where I drag the flies back toward me moving downstream at a pretty rapid rate. If no fish were stirred, I move up stream and cover the next section of the stream. This technique results in many missed strikes because of the moving fly. It will also results in many bulges, refusals, flashes etc. For every fish hooked, there will be about half a dozen fish that will move toward the flies and show you their lies. On these fish, I general cover the area surrounding the place where the fish showed with a series of dead drifts.  About half the time, I’ll hook the fish. Most of them will take the wet. The ability of this technique to bring fish up to the surface during periods of no surface activity and the viciousness of the strikes, makes this technique alot of fun. On my home water, there is a sizable Brown that sits in some shallow pocket water. I’ve moved it a number of times with this technique and hooked once but never landed it. I’ve been unable to interest this fish in any "normally" presented fly. Maybe next year. Willi

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Wets are a gentle, peaceful, traditional way of fishing and I often resort to it whenever I’m just out fishing to relax.  [snip] Most

strikes on the swing are felt rather than seen so intense watching isn’t needed as much.  Tradironal wets, IMHO are the most attractive of trout flys and I enjoy tying them more than any other kind.  If you haven’t tried wet flies before, tie up a bunch and get swinging.

I had never even considered fishing a wet fly until I met up with Joel Axelrad in Wisconsin a couple of years ago, I caught a couple of fish but Joel was killing them in almost every pool fishing a traditional wet fly. I used his technique a later on the Manistee during a bright June day where nothing was hatching and caught brookie after brookie. Since then whenever nothing is happening I go to a wet before I go to a nymph. I fish straight accross regardless of the current, mend at least once after the cast and high stick on down and around, almost all of the strikes I have detected have been on the upstream drift. It lacks [snip] the indicator watching of nymphing

Why would a fisherman of your caliber even think of using a bobber on a nymph, the Juan with a size 28 fly maybe, but Ontario? <g — Wayne Knight Expert in creating tailing loops and windknots Otherwise Fishless in Kansas

Response:

The technique is a very active one that thoroughly covers alot of area in a short time. I generally hit each spot with a series of short, dead drift casts. As each cast begins to swing, I raise my rod tip and swing the flies through all likely lies below me with the dry skittering along the top and the wet dragging just under or at the surface. My next coverage will be a cast directly across stream. I immediately raise my rod tip and drag the flies back across the current. My last coverage of an area is a series a upstream casts where I drag the flies back toward me moving downstream at a pretty rapid rate. If no fish were stirred, I move up stream and cover the next section of the stream.

Could you clarify this, Willi? Do you first fish the spot thoroughly with dead drifts, and only then try the skittering and dragging? — visit my web site: http://home.earthlink.net/~royalwulff/

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0] : Willi suggested we get a thread going on wet fly techniques as it’s an : under appreciated approach and one that can produce when other methods : fail. …. : Normally I use a long, slow four to six weight rod, a double taper : floating line for good mending, long 10′ to 14′ leaders, fine tippet : 5X and smaller, and no splitshot.  If I want the wet to sink deep, I : use fluorocarbon tippet and a series of upstream mends to get it down. …. : Peter Peter, nice esssay, covers the water well. A couple of comments — I find that even with fairly fussy spring creek trout I can go fairly heavy on tippet–4x, even 3x–and still catch lots of fish with soft hackles on the swing. With this I usually tie the fly into a loop so that the stiffer tippet doesn’t affect its action as much. This lack of tippet shyness is not my original observation. Sylvester Nemes remarks on it in his series of books on soft hackles. Also if I want to get down with a wet fly, I prefer to go to a sink tip rather than put weight on the tippet, and of course use the upstream mends. Nice to be talking about fishing here rather than politics and other distractions. Mike — Michael McGuire                     Hewlett Packard Laboratories  (remove x’s from email if not      Palo Alto, CA 94303-0971   a spammer) Phone: (650)-857-5491              

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[snip] Why would a fisherman of your caliber even think of using a bobber on a nymph, the Juan with a size 28 fly maybe, but Ontario? <g — Wayne Knight

You’d be downgrading that "calibre" part if you ever see me nymph. When dredging, I need all the help I can get. Peter

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – : Peter Peter, nice esssay, covers the water well. A couple of comments — I find that even with fairly fussy spring creek trout I can go fairly heavy on tippet–4x, even 3x–and still catch lots of fish with soft hackles on the swing. With this I usually tie the fly into a loop so that the stiffer tippet doesn’t affect its action as much. This lack of tippet shyness is not my original observation. Sylvester Nemes remarks on it in his series of books on soft hackles. Also if I want to get down with a wet fly, I prefer to go to a sink tip rather than put weight on the tippet, and of course use the upstream mends. Nice to be talking about fishing here rather than politics and other distractions. Mike

It’s quite true that the tippet size isn’t a big deal on the swing as the fish tend to charge the fly.  However, on the dead drift part of the cast, the fish do get a good look at it.  In clear water fishing to "educated" trout, I downsize my tippet.  With the long, slow rods I use, the odds of a break-off are reduced. Peter

Response:

Question:

Depends on where you are (local species) . Price you are willing to spend. Local terrain of your most visited fishing water (overhanging trees vs open) Wading or bank fishing. However you can’t go wrong with the Cabelas 3forks 3wt 3piece 7.5′ combo as a starter. Ask anyone. John Popp – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I read the post on the brookie and checked out the world cup website. it seems to be a very novel idea. has this been around for a while or is it brand new….also i am interested more in flly fishing than spinning. could someone recomend a good starter setup for a novice?  thanks RJ —–= Posted via Newsfeeds.Com, Uncensored Usenet News =—– http://www.newsfeeds.com – The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! —–==  Over 80,000 Newsgroups – 16 Different Servers! =—–

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Lots of very favorable posts have surfaced recently about the rods John mentioned…they seem to be very good rods for the $$$.  The only change I would make is for starters I would suggest something in a heavier weight line, say a 5 or 6 weight.  It’s a little more versatile and easier casting heavy nymphs, streamers and bass type flys. Good luck and Tight Lines! Natty

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I read the post on the brookie and checked out the world cup website. it seems to be a very novel idea. has this been around for a while or is it brand new….also i am interested more in flly fishing than spinning. could someone recomend a good starter setup for a novice?  thanks RJ —–= Posted via Newsfeeds.Com, Uncensored Usenet News =—– http://www.newsfeeds.com – The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! —–==  Over 80,000 Newsgroups – 16 Different Servers! =—–

Response:

Depends on where you are (local species) . Price you are willing to spend. Local terrain of your most visited fishing water (overhanging trees vs open) Wading or bank fishing. However you can’t go wrong with the Cabelas 3forks 3wt 3piece 7.5′ combo as a starter. Ask anyone.

You will quite certinly go wrong with a 3wt outfit for a complete beginner. Get a 5-6 wt first. The heavier line gives a much better feeling for the timing than a 3wt. Casting is easier with a heavier line. Wolfgang — shconnect Internet Service Grosse Strasse 17, 24392 S

Question:

Hi, I’m a short time lurker. Was wondering if anybody could recommend a resort/guide service in Colorado offering private water and/or accommodations. Thanks in advance. John Sorell

Response:

Go to www.elktrout.com

Response:

Elktrout is a very fine, fly fishing only-catch and release only,  resort with great strecthes of private property on two rivers and quite a few fantastic ponds.  The guides work hard and you fish right up to dark. Bows and cut throats are prevalent in the ponds with some very large browns lurking in the rivers.  Fish seem to bight all the time.  Quarters and food are first rate. Scenery is beautiful but lots and lots of cow shit to avoid.  All together a wonderful private retreat. Tom Bogdan

Response:

Thanks to all for the replies….John – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Elktrout is a very fine, fly fishing only-catch and release only,  resort with great strecthes of private property on two rivers and quite a few fantastic ponds.  The guides work hard and you fish right up to dark. Bows and cut throats are prevalent in the ponds with some very large browns lurking in the rivers.  Fish seem to bight all the time.  Quarters and food are first rate. Scenery is beautiful but lots and lots of cow shit to avoid.  All together a wonderful private retreat. Tom Bogdan

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Question:

[surgeon's knot instructions snipped] I was curious about the way most people tie knots.  I use my tongue in almost every knot I tie. Hey now! That’s gotta make you popular with the ladies!

Really! Can you tie an overhand not in the stem of a cherry with using your hands? — Those who say do not know; those who know do not say. — Lao Tsu, who must have been a fisherman. something bogus to avoid spam)

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I use my tongue in

almost every knot I tie.  < Is that a sexual reference?  I think that’s a sexual reference.  <g

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I *think* this one’s for you, Mu (and rw probably meant to say "not" using your hands). – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I was curious about the way most people tie knots.  I use my tongue in almost every knot I tie. Really! Can you tie an overhand not in the stem of a cherry with using your hands?

Response:

I see we are complete agreement. <g  Nothing like confusing the rookies, eh?

I’m not exactly a rookie, since I’ve been flyfishing on and off (mostly off) for over 40 years, going back to the days when fiberglass rods were the latest thing and line weights were letter-coded . I’ve just never used the surgeon’s knot much. I have to admit, though, that I’ve caught more trout in the past four months than in the previous 40 years. Thanks for the tips. I’m starting to think my tippet material is too old. — Those who say do not know; those who know do not say. — Lao Tsu, who must have been a fisherman. something bogus to avoid spam)

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RW: (snip) <<Thanks for the tips. I’m starting to think my tippet material is too old. Awwwww, you stole my thunder, RW.  Seriously, if a surgeon’s knot (double,triple) is tied correctly (and it should be since you are an experienced FFer), it shouldn’t fail.  Unless, of course, the tippet material has gone bad. Dave LaCourse

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– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I see we are complete agreement. <g  Nothing like confusing the rookies, eh? I’m not exactly a rookie, since I’ve been flyfishing on and off (mostly off) for over 40 years, going back to the days when fiberglass rods were the latest thing and line weights were letter-coded . I’ve just never used the surgeon’s knot much. I have to admit, though, that I’ve caught more trout in the past four months than in the previous 40 years. Thanks for the tips. I’m starting to think my tippet material is too old. — Those who say do not know; those who know do not say. — Lao Tsu, who must have been a fisherman. something bogus to avoid spam)

I wasn’t specifically thinking about you since we’ve seen you around the group for quite a while.  I read Dave’s post a minute after hitting the send button and it just made me laugh how we (meaning all of us) give contradictory responses to basic questions.  It must be as confusing as hell for real rookies when they read this stuff.   Peter

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RW: (snip) <<Thanks for the tips. I’m starting to think my tippet material is too old. Awwwww, you stole my thunder, RW.  Seriously, if a surgeon’s knot (double,triple) is tied correctly (and it should be since you are an experienced FFer), it shouldn’t fail.  Unless, of course, the tippet material has gone bad. Dave LaCourse

I refrained from rude "old tippet" jokes.  Too easy. There’s an easy test for bad knot vs.bad tippet.  Hold the knotted sections in an inverted ‘U’ with the knot at the top of the ‘U’ and work the mono back and worth.  If the knot is OK, the shape of the ‘U’ will be maintained.  If the tippet has been damaged, it’ll hinge at the knot.  You may not even be able to form the ‘U’ as it may simply fold over at the weak point on the tippet side of the knot. Peter

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Peter Charles: <<There’s an easy test for bad knot vs.bad tippet.  Hold the knotted sections in an inverted ‘U’ with the knot at the top of the ‘U’ and work the mono back and worth.  If the knot is OK, the shape of the ‘U’ will be maintained.  If the tippet has been damaged, it’ll hinge at the knot.  You may not even be able to form the ‘U’ as it may simply fold over at the weak point on the tippet side of the knot. You are a never-ending font of information, Charles! Did you get my directions? Dave LaCourse

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Did you get my directions? Dave LaCourse

Yes thanks.  Sounds straightforward – until I get lost. Peter

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Just for clarification. Are you tying the two overhand knots separately or together? If you tie the overhand then tighten then tie the secound overhand knot over the first its much weaker and will pull through easier. You can go to three overhand knots. A little bulkier but will lock down the tippet. Also some tippet material is very slick. Changing brands might save some grief. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – In the past I’ve always used a blood knot to tie tippet to leader. Lately I’ve been using a surgeon’s knot because it’s definitely easier, if not prettier. My problem is that the damn things keep breaking on me. I’ve heard this is a very strong knot. I’m sure I’m tying it right — just two overhand knots with the tag ends. What’s going on? Is there a trick to tightening it? I’m tightening the non-tag ends first and then the tag ends, and then trimming the knot. — something bogus to avoid spam)

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Just for clarification. Are you tying the two overhand knots separately or together?

I’m tying them both together. — Those who say do not know; those who know do not say. — Lao Tsu, who must have been a fisherman. something bogus to avoid spam)

Response:

I’m tying them both together.

I suppose everyone loves to do things their own way.  But the beauty of the surgeon’s knot is #1 it’s really strong, and #2 you can tie it even in the wind with a hangover (no tools required). After years of tying the knot, I’ve worked out a method I find foolproof and very fast (I’m right handed, you might reverse directions if you’re not). 1) overlap the leader and tippet a couple of inches, and fold back the two strands to create a vertical, double overhand loop, with the tag ends crossing behind and to the right.  Hold the loop closed between the left thumb and index finger. 2)  You now have two tag ends trailing out the right side:  A short one from the leader, and a long one from the tippet. 3) Thread the short tag end through the loop, making sure you thread it through from the front. Pull it just tight enough to get rid of any slack, but do not tighten the loop. 4) Now grab the tippet tag end about an inch from the end, and slip it through the loop TWICE, each time pulling in the slack and feeding it from the front. 5) Thread the short tag through the loop, from the front, a second time, and eliminate the slack. 6)Now grab all four ends (two on each side in one hand), wet the loop with saliva, and pull tight, slowly.  Trim. This gives you a double surgeon’s knot.  Alternate feeding the short and long tag ends through the loop a third time to tie a triple. Michael — www.geocities.com/yosemite/falls/3363 Share what you know. Learn what you don’t.

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Michael Goldstein: < <I suppose everyone loves to do things their own way.  But the beauty of the surgeon’s knot is #1 it’s really strong, and #2 you can tie it even in the wind with a hangover (no tools required). (directions snipped for brevity) I used to tie it in a similar fashion, Michael, until I saw a tool demonstrated at a fly show.  I bought the tool and use it exclusively for surgeon’s and clinch knots.  The beauty of the tool is that you do not have to fumble with tag ends or any ends which can be difficult in cold weather, especially if your hands aren’t very nimble to begin with.  I amazed a couple of professional guides recently with the speed at which I can tie both knots.  Different strokes I guess….. Dave LaCourse

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I used to tie it in a similar fashion, Michael, until I saw a tool demonstrated at a fly show.  <snip

Dave, I hate being dependent on a tool, since sooner or later they have a way of disappearing.  I use a nail knot tool, for example, and found myself stymied when it disappeared out of my pack. With the surgeon’s knot, when it gets cold, I just make the loop larger.  You waste more tippet and leader, but I’ve never not been able to tie it, and I fish year round (though NJ winters have been pretty mild). But if the tool works for you, mazel tov. Michael — www.geocities.com/yosemite/falls/3363 Share what you know. Learn what you don’t.

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[surgeon's knot instructions snipped] I was curious about the way most people tie knots.  I use my tongue in almost every knot I tie.   Mu Young Lee           Ann Arbor, MI  USA

Response:

[surgeon's knot instructions snipped] I was curious about the way most people tie knots.  I use my tongue in almost every knot I tie.  

Hey now! That’s gotta make you popular with the ladies! /daytripper (Hardcore "alphabet" practitioner ;^)

Response:

In the past I’ve always used a blood knot to tie tippet to leader. Lately I’ve been using a surgeon’s knot because it’s definitely easier, if not prettier. My problem is that the damn things keep breaking on me. I’ve heard this is a very strong knot. I’m sure I’m tying it right — just two overhand knots with the tag ends. What’s going on? Is there a trick to tightening it? I’m tightening the non-tag ends first and then the tag ends, and then trimming the knot. — something bogus to avoid spam)

Response:

I’m sure I’m tying it right — just two overhand knots with the tag ends. What’s going on? Is there a trick to tightening it? I’m tightening the non-tag ends first and then the tag ends, and then trimming the knot.

Spit on it, and tighten everybody at the same time slooooooowly. Works for me. — Ken Fortenberry

Response:

Ken Fortenberry: I’m sure I’m tying it right — just two overhand knots with the tag ends. What’s going on? Is there a trick to tightening it? I’m tightening the non-tag ends first and then the tag ends, and then trimming the knot.

Spit on it, and tighten everybody at the same time slooooooowly. Works for me. Have you tried tying it with a tool?  You can use your forceps. Align the two pieces (leader and tippet) and make a "U" of them, with the right side of the U being the end of the tippet. Hold the U in your left hand between thumb and index finger acroos the top of the U.  Insert the forceps and twist twice (or three times for a triple surgeons knot). Then grab the tag end of the leader and the long end of the tippet (the right side of the U) and draw them through.  Grab the leader and long tippet end and pull to tighten.  Then do the same with the tag ends.  I usually spit on the knot (or stick it in the water) for lubrication.  I have never had this knot fail. Once you practice it, you can tie it, tighten it, clip it and be ready to tie on a fly in 30 seconds. Dave LaCourse

Response:

I’m sure I’m tying it right — just two overhand knots with the tag ends. What’s going on? Is there a trick to tightening it? I’m tightening the non-tag ends first and then the tag ends, and then trimming the knot.

Pulling the non-tag ends is the worst thing to do.  As the knot tightens, the tippet is pulled through the knot and is heated and crushed by the heavier leader.  The failure point ends up a millimetre or so below the knot where the tippet has been thinned the most.  As Ken has said, pull all simultaneously and keep the knot wet. Sometimes it’s hard to get a tight knot.  In that case take the tippet tag end and pull it down against the knot to snug things up. Cheers Visit The Streamer Page at http://www.cgocable.net/~pcharles/index.html

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -Ken Fortenberry: I’m sure I’m tying it right — just two overhand knots with the tag ends. What’s going on? Is there a trick to tightening it? I’m tightening the non-tag ends first and then the tag ends, and then trimming the knot. Spit on it, and tighten everybody at the same time slooooooowly. Works for me. Have you tried tying it with a tool?  You can use your forceps. Align the two pieces (leader and tippet) and make a "U" of them, with the right side of the U being the end of the tippet. Hold the U in your left hand between thumb and index finger acroos the top of the U.  Insert the forceps and twist twice (or three times for a triple surgeons knot). Then grab the tag end of the leader and the long end of the tippet (the right side of the U) and draw them through.  Grab the leader and long tippet end and pull to tighten.  Then do the same with the tag ends.  I usually spit on the knot (or stick it in the water) for lubrication.  I have never had this knot fail. Once you practice it, you can tie it, tighten it, clip it and be ready to tie on a fly in 30 seconds. Dave LaCourse

Dave I see we are complete agreement. <g  Nothing like confusing the rookies, eh? Peter

Response:

Spit on it, and tighten everybody at

the same time slooooooowly.< Works for me.

Response:

Question:

I made the trip two years ago.  The one suggestion I would make strongly is to go north via the Cassiar rather than the Alaska Highway.  The Cassiar Highway is "relatively" new,  still some stretches not paved,  VERY shy on service stations,  But well worth a try.  We had planned to go north that way and return via the Alaska Hwy, but decided to travel the Cassiar both ways.  It’s only about 500 miles of your trip,  but much more rewarding than the much busier Alaska Hwy.  The Cassiar roughly parallels the Alaska highway on the west.  You head west from Prince George on HWY 16, turn north at Kitwanga and follow the Cassiar Highway til it intercepts the Alaska Highway near Watson Lake at the British Columbia/Yukon Territory border. There’s lots of excellent fly fishing along the way.  A couple of spots that I remember particularly well:  Edentenajon Lake – great place if you have a float tube or small boat. We even caught plenty for dinner wading along the shore where we camped.  Very nice but small private camp Red Goat Lodge, right on the lake.  Cottonwood River – spent about 2 hours catching and releasing MANY large grayling just off the road.  Grayling 16 – 18 inches, which is good size for them. If you’d like to see some photos of these places let me know at Works format.  Not professional quality, but they still get me excited to head north again. You’ll have a great time.  Enjoy your trip. BARRY – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – : hello one and all- : i am planning my trip of a lifetime for next may- i am going to : drive from washington state to the yukon and alaska. if anyone : can recommend rivers to fish along the way i would be grateful : to hear about them. this posting marks the very beginning of my : research. my itinerary is wide open and the individual

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: hello one and all- : i am planning my trip of a lifetime for next may- i am going to : drive from washington state to the yukon and alaska. if anyone : can recommend rivers to fish along the way i would be grateful : to hear about them. this posting marks the very beginning of my : research. my itinerary is wide open and the individual : destinations will be determined by the fish and the scenery : along the way. as well as flyfishing i love photography and i’ll : be doing a lot of that too. wish i could go to sleep and wake up : in about 11 months… Starting in Washington State, point your car north.  Then turn right and go into N. Idaho.  Pick a river and begin your journey. — Rick T. Rick Fletcher   –   http://www.chem.uidaho.edu/~fletcher/ Associate professor of chemistry  |  That’s Idaho, not Iowa.    | ad hominem University of Idaho               |  Upper Left Hand Corner.    | ad hominem Moscow, ID 83844-2343             |  No, I don’t grow potatoes. | ad hominem

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: hello one and all- : i am planning my trip of a lifetime for next may- i am going to : drive from washington state to the yukon and alaska. if anyone : can recommend rivers to fish along the way i would be grateful : to hear about them. this posting marks the very beginning of my : research. my itinerary is wide open and the individual : destinations will be determined by the fish and the scenery : along the way. as well as flyfishing i love photography and i’ll : be doing a lot of that too. wish i could go to sleep and wake up : in about 11 months… Starting in Washington State, point your car north.  Then turn right and go into N. Idaho.  Pick a river and begin your journey.

As a starter buy a copy of the "Milepost" highway travel guide. It gives a detailed description of the Alaska Highway and gives details of the rivers and creeks that you cross and what fish are in them. There’s a lot of Grayling. I’ve driven the highway 3 times. Now days it’s just a well paved road through the wilderness with beautiful scenery Ed. Ed Fenton Burlington, Ontario, Canada

Response:

hello one and all- i am planning my trip of a lifetime for next may- i am going to drive from washington state to the yukon and alaska. if anyone can recommend rivers to fish along the way i would be grateful to hear about them. this posting marks the very beginning of my research. my itinerary is wide open and the individual destinations will be determined by the fish and the scenery along the way. as well as flyfishing i love photography and i’ll be doing a lot of that too. wish i could go to sleep and wake up in about 11 months… thanks for any and all suggestions- greg

Response:

Question:

A friend has a decent two piece bamboo rod but the ferrules are damaged and he wants to replace the ferrules.  Any one have a suggestion on where these can be found?

Hi Steve, I think that Cortland bought out Rodon, rod building components, a while back and I think I got some good nickel silver ferrules from them for about $35 a set. Call me at 800/4000FLY and I’ll check in the catologs for you. Bill Kiene Kiene’s Fly Shop Sacramento,CA,USA 800/4000FLY www.kiene.com

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A friend has a decent two piece bamboo rod but the ferrules are damaged and he wants to replace the ferrules.  Any one have a suggestion on where these can be found?

Collected a couple of years ago…. 1.  in Toronto, famous rod builder Ted Knott 2.  Bruce Conner (Cane Rod FAQ) rx. Bailey Woods- Classic Sporting Enterprises, Box 1909, Fitch Hill Rd., Hyde Park, VT  05655    (802) 888-7859. I have found two sources for ferrules for cane [ bamboo] fods. On is from the Powell Rod company in Chico, Ca. You may reach them at 1-800- 782-7600 inside Ca. Outside Ca. call 1-800-228-0615. They can supply both Hard Chrome ferrules as well as the more expensive nickel silver ferrules. If you are looking to more closely restore the rod to original condition you might try Classic Sporting Enterprises Inc. Roaring Brook Rd. RD#3 Box 3 Barton, Vermont 05822. Their phone # is (802) 525 3623. 4.  I eventually bought odd ferrules directly from Orvis (Peter Brown, fishing manager) — 802 362-3750 or fax 802 362-3525 Newsgroups: rec.outdoors.fishing.fly If you’re looking for chrome-plated brass try Netcraft – (419) 472-8058 – FAX  -9826 They have 10/11 (64’s) pair on up to 24/25 (64’s). If you want nickel-silver ferules, try Dale Clemens – (610) 395-5119 – FAX 398-2580 or  Angler’s Workshop – (360) 225-9445  - FAX 225-8641. Also, take out a second on the house ($30-40 US). You also might try surfing over to URL — http://www.gorp.com/bamboo.htm  and ask for their latest "The Classic Chronicle" newsletter. They have new and used ferrules listed. Pick-up a couple of cane rods while you’re there. — |  Donald Phillipson, 4180 Boundary Road, Carlsbad Springs,  | |        Ontario, Canada, K0A 1K0, tel. 613 822 0734         |

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A friend has a decent two piece bamboo rod but the ferrules are damaged and he wants to replace the ferrules.  Any one have a suggestion on where these can be found? Steve           __                /          Steven Patterson, Ph.D.         / ..|       Department of Chemistry and Biochemistry        (_  |_)      University of Notre Dame       /            _   /  `   |        \/    | _        A Protestant dawg at a Catholic University     /_ || \_        ____)|_) _)  

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Question:

I’m looking at Jet Boats for Klamath River. How is important is a center console and how big a boat and how much HP needed for two adult fisherman, opinions appreciated?

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I’m looking at jet boats for the Klamath river, CA. How important is a center console and what do you think is an adequate msize boat & motor for tow adults? All, opinions appreciated.

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Whew!…I allways get shakey when I see a post for jet boats!….they are a major nusiance on some rivers here in Montana…for that matter any motorized boat is a nusiance on a river(of wading size)….we had a clown in a boat down on the lower clark fork one summer…he would cruise at nearly full trottle up and down the river all day long…if you were wading and didn’t get out of the water quickly his wake would come up over your wader tops…it would put rising fish down for 15-20 minutes…and just when they got back on the fin, he’d come zooming back down the river…a lot of flyfisherman were talking about this guy that summer and threatening to strangle him!

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I don’t know about MT laws, but in WA this will get the guy a big fine. A person in waders is considered a SWIMER, and requires boats to maintain a 100 yard distance or be below 5 MPH.  Not sure on the exact distance in all cases, but the lakes around here enforce 100 yds. Also, any boat is ALWAYS responsible for its wake.  Check laws, and if you can’t get a local law officer out, get a few buddies togeather, get the guys boat number and personal ID.  If he blows you off at this point he will be in bigger trouble.  File a complaint at the local agency.  May require a day in court, but I bet he will learn the lesson very quickly. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -Whew!…I allways get shakey when I see a post for jet boats!….they are a major nusiance on some rivers here in Montana…for that matter any motorized boat is a nusiance on a river(of wading size)….we had a clown in a boat down on the lower clark fork one summer…he would cruise at nearly full trottle up and down the river all day long…if you were wading and didn’t get out of the water quickly his wake would come up over your wader tops…it would put rising fish down for 15-20 minutes…and just when they got back on the fin, he’d come zooming back down the river…a lot of flyfisherman were talking about this guy that summer and threatening to strangle him!

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Hey, Mellow out!!    Jet boats are like mt bikes, 200 watt stereos and fly fishing "experts". A little abuse and social ineptitude can go a long ways. Several days ago I was on the Yuba when a couple of kids came fishing through with spinning gear. A flyfishing expert (in his own mind) yelled to me, "some day these guys will earn how to REALLY fish". I’m sure it just made their day.    I’ve got a 16′ aluminum jon style river boat with a 40hp outboard jet on it. I’ve had (and still have) whalers, drift boats, canoes, float tubes, kayaks, ad nauseum. . . and nothing has come close in terms of flyfishing versatility to this little jet job.  It’s quite, leaves a flat wake, floats on dew, and can fish me anywhere in the Sacramento Delta, the San Francisco Bay or on any boatable lake or river on the West coast. Just because it can go 35mph doesn’t mean it has too. It has a trolling motor and oar locks and I put just about as many miles on the thing with the motor out of the water as I do with it in.    As far as the answer to the original question, I don’t know . . . never been on that river in a jet. As far as all of the responses to the guy’s query. . . get a life.    Tight lines, Ralph —

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The absolute best jet boat on a wadeable stream is aluminum, has a large hole in the hull slightly aft of the bow, a dead engine and is on a trailer heading for somewhere else.                         Mike in PDX                "When the trout are lost, smash the state."                                            Tom McGuane

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Get a life..exactly…and keep motor boats off Montana ’s rivers!

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:    I’ve got a 16′ aluminum jon style river boat with a 40hp outboard jet : on it. I’ve had (and still have) whalers, drift boats, canoes, float : tubes, kayaks, ad nauseum. . . and nothing has come close in terms of : flyfishing versatility to this little jet job.   I too, like the idea of jetting to a great spot to fish, but what do you think the boat does to the fish you pass over?  I’ll bet they hide for hours afterward.  This can happen on the Salmon in Idaho.  Knee deep in beautiful water and then a jet boat goes through.  Might as well hang it up, because the fish go down… It probably soesn’t matter as much on the bigger rivers.  But I don’t know… the Salmon collects from one of the largest drainages in America. I think I prefer to go upstream and pontoon boat down.  I’ll buy my first boat this year.  It seems this approach would disturb the fish much less.  Opinions? — Rick T. Rick Fletcher   –   http://www.chem.uidaho.edu/~fletcher/ Assistant professor of chemistry  |  That’s Idaho, not Iowa.    | ad hominem University of Idaho               |  Upper Left Hand Corner.    | ad hominem Moscow, ID 83844-2343             |  No, I don’t grow potatoes. | ad hominem

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About 6 mos ago I hit a reference on the net to a study that the state of Alaska had initiated.  Basically, they were going to look at the effects of jet boat traffic on spawning chinook.  The study was going to focus on small (undefined) waters.  The concern was that the heavy traffic in some areas was adversley impacting the fish.  Unfortunately, I no longer have the reference to the site or the study.  Might check on Alaska DFG site. Power boating is apparently an issue in New Zealand (Simon Lusk, chip in here please).  As part of the scenic river plan for the Deschutes River, a literature search was done about 3 years ago and at that time, the only studies on impacts of jet boats on fish, riparian habitat, bank degradation etc. that were found had been done in NZ.  It does appear that in some instances there can be an impact on sediment displacement/load in shoreside areas and bank erosion from wave wash. In addition to habitat issues, there is a growing concern about conflict between user groups as use becomes more intensive, particularly on smaller or more confined waters such as most of the water we fish for trout.  Urban planners dealt with a similiar problem a long time ago…There are not many cities in this country that DON’T have one-way streets…. On big water such as the Snake, other considerations are raised…is "wild and scenic" compatible with 300hp 40mph, ??decible power boat traffic?  The Forest Service and the non-powerboating public thinks not.  See new boat traffic regs on Snake.  The Deschutes River (lower river) has power boat free weeks during the season and there is a lot of pressure to remove them entirely.                         Mike in PDX                "When the trout are lost, smash the state."                                            Tom McGuane

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What follows is an e-mail response to a post on Jet Boats.  "Bogus"=counterfeit, fake.  Sorry, it was a real post, I realy did post it, you realy did read it.  I am still looking to see exactly where my occupation is listed however.  Not too long ago I heard a fairly well respected guide and author tell a jet boat owner that was a bit unhappy about regulations on powerboats that he should consider selling his mega foot mega horspower jet boat for mega dollars and investing the proceeds in an education…..then maybe he wouldn’t feel compelled to turn every body of running water into a drag strip. I would appreciate any references to studies, bogus or otherwise, that indicate that the use of jet boats in confined waters is beneficial to fish or habitat. The only bogus study involving jet boats that I am aware of also involved bass boats.  A study of boat owning penile transplant candidates indicated that over 65% of them owned either jet sleds or bass boats.                         Mike in PDX                "When the trout are lost, smash the state."                                            Tom McGuane hi.com Your post concerning JET Boat studies & spawning is BOGUS.Do your research before making such BS Claims. Perhaps if you spent some time at a job that afforded your more economic return(and less time clogging the net with this bulll shit) you might some get to the best fishing in a jet Boat. "When the Trout are lost" i’ts your fault for allowing it to happen !

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Question:

I’d like to apologize to Mark for flaming him.  That was not my intent!  My intent was to poke a little fun at elitist dry fly fishermen who look down on nymphing.  BTW my perferred method of fishing is with a dry fly or emerger, but only when it is effective, most of the time it’s just not as effective as nymphing.  IMO nymphing in many ways is more challenging than dry fly fishing.   For example dead drift is every bit as important to nymphing as with a dry fly presentation but tougher due to the differential current speeds from surface to stream bottom.

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Keywords: I got  e-mail in response to a previous post  and I thought I’d share it with the group. Mark Writes in response to my post below: For nymphs fished dead drift I always use long leaders, indicators and lead. when you say "indicators", are you referring to "bobbers"? i.e. Little things that float around and bounce up and down when a fish bites.                           Mark

Yes Mark that’s exactly what I mean and with no apologies.  Except for sight nymphing where you can see both the fish and the nymph at the same time, its almost impossible to see the take by watching your line (another little thing that floats around and bounces up and down when a fish bites).   Even with an indicator experienced fisheman miss at least 50% of the takes.  This experience comes from years of fishing to sighted fish with partners, where one partner spots for the other.   Frequently, when I’m up on a bank with a good angle, I’ve watched the trout we’re hunting inhale the nymph with no movement in the line leader or indicator.  A nymphing trout’s take is very subtle.  They suck the nymph and almost as quickly blow it back out again if you don’t set the hook. So Mark if you can’t stomache using a bobber or indicator, then just sit back and continue to be   self satisfied catching only the trout dumb enough to hook themselves (Usually the smaller ones who have to dart in from the side.), then by all means continue.   I’ll just have to take my satisfaction from success on the water, knowing deep down inside that somehow I’m just not the fisherman I could be if I could only loose my dependence on those bobbers! Just in case anyone out there thinks I’m serious.  I don’t know a single nymph fisherman, whose opinion I respect, who doesn’t use indicators ( that includes Andre Puyans, Mike Lawson, Lamb, etc.).  I vary the type of indicator to the conditions I’m fishing.   In fast water I use Marks bobbers to set the depth of float as much as anything.  In fast water the line drag usually sets the hook sets the hook before you’ll see the indicator move or pause.  In glass smooth gin clear water I use either a little silicon on the leader or a small tuft of yarn.  But what the heck it’s all bobber fishing right Mark.

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