Question:

Well, a couple of weeks ago when I got my first fly rod, I wasn’t sure whether the reel was left or right handed, and it took me quite a while to figure out how to put all of the tackle together.  With the help of some newsgroup posters and lurkers I managed to put it all together. (I was a hunter 30 years ago, but have never been a fisherman until this summer).  On Sunday I went to Childrens lake in Boiling Springs, PA (just a few miles from my home) and practiced casting for a while.  Took my 9-year-old son along, and spent most of my time untangling his tackle for him, but I did get some good casting practice in.  Monday morning I hit the Yellow Breeches alone, tried various flies, and after an hour or so – Success !!  Caught my first brook trout, a nice 10-incher.  Fished the rest of the day without further success, but I was really happy about that first hit.  I’m definitely hooked !

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Well, a couple of weeks ago when I got my first fly rod, I wasn’t sure whether the reel was left or right handed, and it took me quite a while to figure out how to put all of the tackle together.  With the help of some newsgroup posters and lurkers I managed to put it all together. (I was a hunter 30 years ago, but have never been a fisherman until this summer).  On Sunday I went to Childrens lake in Boiling Springs, PA (just a few miles from my home) and practiced casting for a while.  Took my 9-year-old son along, and spent most of my time untangling his tackle for him, but I did get some good casting practice in.  Monday morning I hit the Yellow Breeches alone, tried various flies, and after an hour or so – Success !!  Caught my first brook trout, a nice 10-incher.  Fished the rest of the day without further success, but I was really happy about that first hit.  I’m definitely hooked ! </PRE</HTML

That’s a great story Brian.   Glad to have you in the fly fishing fraternity. What fly did you end up catching the brookie on? Was it wet or dry. Dream of the possibilities. Joel Axelrad

Response:

Brian, congratulations on the catch.. now, get that second mortgage all worked up so you can get a bunch of gear and go nutty over minor itty bitty gizmos for the ol’ vest.  Congrats, edwin

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Well, a couple of weeks ago when I got my first fly rod, I wasn’t sure whether the reel was left or right handed, and it took me quite a while to figure out how to put all of the tackle together.  With the help of some newsgroup posters and lurkers I managed to put it all together. (I was a hunter 30 years ago, but have never been a fisherman until this summer). On Sunday I went to Childrens lake in Boiling Springs, PA (just a few miles from my home) and practiced casting for a while.  Took my 9-year-old son along, and spent most of my time untangling his tackle for him, but I did get some good casting practice in.  Monday morning I hit the Yellow Breeches alone, tried various flies, and after an hour or so – Success !!  Caught my first brook trout, a nice 10-incher.  Fished the rest of the day without further success, but I was really happy about that first hit.  I’m definitely hooked !

Response:

   Monday morning I hit the Yellow Breeches alone, tried various flies, and after an hour or so – Success !!  Caught my first brook trout, a nice 10-incher.  Fished the rest of the day without further success, but I was really happy about that first hit.  I’m definitely hooked !

   That’s not bad at all. When I took up flyfishing, it was 600 round trip miles to good trout water, and I drove it five times before achieving your level of success.

Response:

Congratulations Brian!  Your post brought back fond memories for me. When I was attending grad school at U. of Maryland in the early eighties, I’d sometimes bag a day of classes and drive up to PA and fish the Breeches.  Be sure to spend some time on Falling Spring Branch too. A lovely stream (at least it used to be). JR

Response:

I know Falling Spring well.  I went to high school in Chambersburg and spent a lot of time in the area as my best friend lived on Falling Spring Road. Haven’t been back there in many years, though.  I’ll have to check it out one day in the fall.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Congratulations Brian!  Your post brought back fond memories for me. When I was attending grad school at U. of Maryland in the early eighties, I’d sometimes bag a day of classes and drive up to PA and fish the Breeches.  Be sure to spend some time on Falling Spring Branch too. A lovely stream (at least it used to be). JR

Response:

Wish I could remember for sure which fly it was, but I think it was a tan caddis, probably a  14. I’ve already accumulated two big boxes full of flies !

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Well, a couple of weeks ago when I got my first fly rod, I wasn’t sure whether the reel was left or right handed, and it took me quite a while to figure out how to put all of the tackle together.  With the help of some newsgroup posters and lurkers I managed to put it all together. (I was a hunter 30 years ago, but have never been a fisherman until this summer). On Sunday I went to Childrens lake in Boiling Springs, PA (just a few miles from my home) and practiced casting for a while.  Took my 9-year-old son along, and spent most of my time untangling his tackle for him, but I did get some good casting practice in.  Monday morning I hit the Yellow Breeches alone, tried various flies, and after an hour or so – Success !!  Caught my first brook trout, a nice 10-incher.  Fished the rest of the day without further success, but I was really happy about that first hit.  I’m definitely hooked ! </PRE</HTML That’s a great story Brian. Glad to have you in the fly fishing fraternity. What fly did you end up catching the brookie on? Was it wet or dry. Dream of the possibilities. Joel Axelrad

Response:

Monday morning I hit the Yellow Breeches alone, tried various flies, and after an hour or so – Success !!  Caught my first brook trout, a nice 10-incher.  Fished the rest of the day without further success, but I was really happy about that first hit.  I’m definitely hooked !

That’s great.  Don’t get discouraged – contrary to appearances and what you may have heard, I found that can be a tough stream.  You will find easier (and toughher!) water.  Good luck! Regards, Jeff

Response:

Question:

Help save our migratory fishery.  I’ve heard that we should all throw a bale of straw into the Columbia River.  It seems the straw bales get soggy and take out gill nets, thus helping the fish to survive them. Does this really work or make sense as ‘a protest vote?’ — Mr. G. http://www.gink.com (World’s Best Dry Fly Dressing) http://www.rodbuilding.com (For the Serious Rod Builder) http://www.xink.com (World’s Best Wet Fly Sink)

Question:

    I have an old bamboo pole that was given to me.  It is about 9 to 10′ two piece pole with a single eyelet on the end.  It doesn’t have a handle on it or any mounts for a reel.     I’m curioius of what kind of pole it is and If it is worth anything.

Response:

   I have an old bamboo pole that was given to me.  It is about 9 to 10′ two piece pole with a single eyelet on the end.  It doesn’t have a handle on it or any mounts for a reel.    I’m curioius of what kind of pole it is and If it is worth anything.

Hi Andrew, That pole is for ‘tule dippen’. You put about 8 to 10′ of heavy line on the eyelet with a bobber and hook. Install some protein (i.e.worm) and swing it out on to the water. When the bobber goes under, light up the barbecue. I think it is a big part of our fishing heritage. In many third world countries they fish with a can and line. Bill Kiene Kiene’s Fly Shop Sacramento,CA,USA 800/4000FLY www.kiene.com

Response:

   I have an old bamboo pole that was given to me.  It is about 9 to 10′ two piece pole with a single eyelet on the end.  It doesn’t have a handle on it or any mounts for a reel.    I’m curioius of what kind of pole it is and If it is worth anything.

AKA a ‘whacko’ pole ,,used here (AUS) for the taking of Barra and Jack around snags. Method is to secure some 80+ mono to the tip with a 3.0 longshank hook with the barb filed off. Attach one live prawn (at least #8) and lower gingerly  into the snag. The name I am not sure where it originates. Tis one of these: A. the sound created when the frustrated fisho hits the water with the pole repeatedly. B. the imagined feeling when a BarraTuesday hits. C. the clip over the ear you get when doin’ this out of season. D. all of the above Gilly No SEA too rough No Muff too tough Be UP and alive

Response:

Question:

Does anyone know of any programs etc etc or web pages that talk about fly hatches… when they start etc..for pacific northwest or b.c. canada….any info would be appreciated…thanks.

Response:

I have a page listing general hatch info for western Montana. go to http://www.montana.com/dno/info.htm to view it. Hope this helps. Does anyone know of any programs etc etc or web pages that talk about fly hatches… when they start etc..for pacific northwest or b.c. canada….any info would be appreciated…thanks.

– Brian D. Nelson Diamond N Outfitters, Missoula, Montana http://www.montana.com/dno/dno.htm

Response:

Last weekend, I went to Wales near river Usk  and try to play fry fishing for  salmon. At that time  I heard that spring salmon don’t try to eat  flys, just try to bite being gotten angry. Is it true ?

Response:

Last weekend, I went to Wales near river Usk  and try to play fry fishing for  salmon. At that time  I heard that spring salmon don’t try to eat  flys, just try to bite being gotten angry. Is it true ?

Spawning salmon don’t have much of an appetite, but will strike at annoyances, like a crazy bug darting in front of its snout every 10 seconds or so… B

Response:

Last weekend, I went to Wales near river Usk  and try to play fry fishing for  salmon. At that time  I heard that spring salmon don’t try to eat  flys, just try to bite being gotten angry. Is it true ?

Not many Spring (ie early-running) Salmon in the Usk these days – runs are getting later.  Any that do enter the river this early are likely to be 10-12 lbs and they won’t spawn until December.  There just isn’t enough food for them to "feed" for 8 months. There are lots of reasons why Atlantic Salmon might take.  Hugh Falkus, the best UK salmon fisherman / writer for me, suggested: feeding habit, aggression, curiosity, irritation, inducement and playfulness. He gives a brilliant description of playfulness, observed from a high bank, when a fish intercepted a worm, did a quick figure-of-eight around it and then drifted downstream with the worm in its open mouth, never touching it, whilst doing swivels and tail-stands like a seal with a ball…! — Phil Jones Swansea, South Wales

Response:

Question:

After much debate, I finally went out and  purchased a new rod.  A Scott 5wt STS.  Why am I telling you all this?  Mostly because I need advice on which reel will be the best match for this rod.  Under $200.00.  The dealer I purchased the rod from has recomended a make I’ve never seem before T Tom (T Top?).  What do the sages (no pun inteneded) of

rec.outdoors.fishing.fly have to suggest? Thank you in advance! Ross

Ross, The dealer probably said "Teton". John Johnson Lilburn,GA

Response:

You probably mean Teton!  I have seen that one reccomended here before.   A small Lamson or STH would also be good. -Burton On Mon, 13 Jan 1997, Ross Laurie – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – After much debate, I finally went out and  purchased a new rod.  A Scott  5wt STS.  Why am I telling you all this?  Mostly because I need advice on which reel will be the best match for this rod.  Under $200.00.  The dealer I purchased the rod from has recomended a make I’ve never seem before T Tom (T Top?).  What do the sages (no pun inteneded) of rec.outdoors.fishing.fly have to suggest? Thank you in advance! Ross

Response:

After much debate, I finally went out and  purchased a new rod.  A Scott 5wt STS.  Why am I telling you all this?  Mostly because I need advice on which reel will be the best match for this rod.  Under $200.00.  The dealer I purchased the rod from has recomended a make I’ve never seem before T Tom (T Top?).  What do the sages (no pun inteneded) of rec.outdoors.fishing.fly have to suggest? Thank you in advance! Ross

Hey Ross, This is just my 2 cents, but unless you are fishing for Salmon, Steelhead or any of the big saltwater species known for long runs, a reel is just a device to hold your line. Don’t waste your $$$ on an expensive reel to fish for trout. YMMV, Tom

Response:

After much debate, I finally went out and  purchased a new rod.  A Scott 5wt STS.  Why am I telling you all this?  Mostly because I need advice on which reel will be the best match for this rod.  Under $200.00.  The dealer I purchased the rod from has recomended a make I’ve never seem before T Tom (T Top?).  What do the sages (no pun inteneded) of rec.outdoors.fishing.fly have to suggest? Thank you in advance! Ross

 Hello Ross, I believe the reel he is speaking of is a Teton.  They make a nice reel.  Although, if you are looking for a real clean setup I would look no further than the new Ross Colorado.  The size you want is about $100 and the spools are about $50.  This reel only has a pawl to keep it from free spooling.  No Drag!  But really, is a drag that important on anything under a 6-7 weight rod.  I like the exposed rim. If you feel that you need a drag, maybe the cimmaron by ross would be a good bet.  It is lighter than the Teton. Enjoy Life, Paul Johnson,

Response:

I would go with the Ross reels. Either the Cimarron ($170) or the Gunnison ($210). The gunnison has a great disc drag. Very good reels, beautiful finish and they are light. I would go with the extra $10. Otherwise, the Cimarron is great. No disc drag, otherwise, just as good and pretty. kmustad – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text –

Response:

After much debate, I finally went out and  purchased a new rod.  A Scott  5wt STS.  Why am I telling you all this?  Mostly because I need advice on which reel will be the best match for this rod.  Under $200.00.  The dealer I purchased the rod from has recomended a make I’ve never seem before T Tom (T Top?).  What do the sages (no pun inteneded) of rec.outdoors.fishing.fly have to suggest? Thank you in advance! Ross

Response:

After much debate, I finally went out and  purchased a new rod.  A Scott  5wt STS.  Why am I telling you all this?  Mostly because I need advice on which reel will be the best match for this rod.  Under $200.00.  The dealer I purchased the rod from has recomended a make I’ve never seem before T Tom (T Top?).  What do the sages (no pun inteneded) of rec.outdoors.fishing.fly have to suggest? Thank you in advance! Ross

It getting to be a real bitc… when $200 is a mid priced reel.  The good news is IMHO, that it tough to beat the Cortland LTD’s, which you can have for around $100, and xtra spools for under $40.  Fine disc drags, easy to clean, graphite construction. made in UK (sorry George) USA made look to Tetons, and Lamsons.  There are undoubtedly others but these I own and use. jg

Response:

It getting to be a real bitc… when $200 is a mid priced reel.  

Can you believe it? The good news is IMHO, that it tough to beat the Cortland LTD’s,

They are a good reel. I use the size 80 for my DT5F and WF6F lines and it works just fine. Not as smooth as others, but it’s always been reliable for me. Room for 100 yards of 20lb backing (give or take). Mine is 5(?) years old and has seen lots of streamside rocks and boat bottoms and is still kicking. I’ve never been particularly careful with that reel and it’s never given me a problem. I sort of like the fact that I can bang it around a bit and not fret and fuss. If I had one of the Abel reels with the "Coral" finish, I think I’d be afraid to bring it outside. look to Tetons, and Lamsons.

I would also look at the Orvis Battenkill. I know some on the group tend to quiver at the O-word, but I do very much like their reels. If I had the cash, you can bet I’d have a CFO on my trout sticks. My Battenkill 8/9 Disc has served me well over the past few years since I bought it. The SA System 2L reels are nice and more trout sized than their bigger cousins. I like their smooth drag system (at least the few I’ve fondled in the shops). Bob Petti Endwell, NY

Response:

After much debate, I finally went out and  purchased a new rod.  A Scott  5wt STS.  Why am I telling you all this?  Mostly because I need advice on which reel will be the best match for this rod.  Under $200.00.  The dealer I purchased the rod from has recomended a make I’ve never seem before T Tom (T Top?).  What do the sages (no pun inteneded) of rec.outdoors.fishing.fly have to suggest? Thank you in advance! Ross

I definitely don’t qualify as a sage (no pun inferred) but, I am ecstatic about an LL Bean Streamligh that I paid around $60.00 for.  It has a pawl drag without much oomph to it, but other than that, its extremely ligh weight and has a great feel to it.  On top of that, LL Bean has as good a return policy as you will ever find.  I am using a 4/5 on a 9 ft sage LL 4 wt.  Good Luck! Randy

Response:

Question:

Does anyone have information on fly fishing for silver salmon in  Alaska? I plan to raft (class 3 water) in the fall of 97. Self  guided trip. I am looking for good river in Bristol Bay region.  I prefer a river with no lodges present.

Response:

I have fished silvers on three trips to Yakutat (SW AK, on the coast) but somewhat differently than your planned trip. Drive to the river, never more than 30 min. from a hot shower and a cold drink. 8 wt. outfit, hooks size 4-6, streamers with the "egg sucking leech" in black being favored, 10-15# tippet. Fish in your possesion still belong to the bears. This is not a F&G regulation but common sense. Have a great trip! Len Hunter No. CA

Response:

I have fished silvers on three trips to Yakutat (SW AK, on the coast) but somewhat differently than your planned trip. Drive to the river, never more than 30 min. from a hot shower and a cold drink. 8 wt. outfit, hooks size 4-6, streamers with the "egg sucking leech" in black being favored, 10-15# tippet. Fish in your possesion still belong to the bears. This is not a F&G regulation but common sense. Have a great trip! Len Hunter No. CA

  I’m a little disturbed at the suggestion that it may be OK to give fish to a bear. This creates a problem very quickly with bears and the bear  will end up dead. I have run into bears in the bush that have learned that they can get a free fish by approaching fishermen and invariably the bear will be dead within a year, as they will be killed by someone that knows better than to feed a bear.  Do not ever give a fish or any food to a bear!    If you do come to AK and do a raft trip do not keep salmon until your pick-up day, unless you have some bear proof containers. I’m convinced that more bears get killed each year by folks that don’t know what they’re doing than are killed legitimately by hunters and people in defense of life and property.    If you’re not familiar with brown bear behavior I do not believe that you should be camping on a salmon stream in the Bristol Bay area without a guide. It ain’t California.                                                           Jim

Response:

snipped to fit:    If you do come to AK and do a raft trip do not keep salmon until your pick-up day, unless you have some bear proof containers. I’m convinced that more bears get killed each year by folks that don’t know what they’re doing than are killed legitimately by hunters and people in defense of life and property.    If you’re not familiar with brown bear behavior I do not believe that you should be camping on a salmon stream in the Bristol Bay area without a guide. It ain’t California.                                                           Jim

If you need to shoot a charging bear and shoot it, it will cost you a fine of $15,000.00 dollars.  We are sure this will decrease dramatically the problem of charging bears and anyone’s life is certainly worth $15,000, the think-tank boys have concurred. Makes sense to me. Mr. G.

Response:

Question:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – writes: I’m looking for some good quality rod blanks.  I have never built a flyrod so I don’t want to start with an expensive blank but if the job is successful I want a pretty good one.   thanks—knack Whitehouse, TX Hi NOTE: Combined posting for clear thread You might try Clemens, 444 Schantz Raod, Allentown, PA.  They have fly rod blanks from inexpensive to very expensive. I second that, they have discounted close-outs that they sell by the $/foot. Ask for their latest rod blank flyer. Don Burns

can senr info on all blank mfg. in U.S

Response:

I’m looking for some good quality rod blanks.  I have never built a flyrod so I don’t want to start with an expensive blank but if the job is successful I want a pretty good one.   thanks—knack Whitehouse, TX

Response:

I’m looking for some good quality rod blanks.  I have never built a flyrod so I don’t want to start with an expensive blank but if the job is successful I want a pretty good one.   thanks—knack Whitehouse, TX

Hi You might try a Sage second. I think the River’s Edge still has a few and they are reasonably priced. 406-586-5373 Tight Lines Al Beatty BT’s Fly Fishing Products Bozeman, MT (96 catalog)

Response:

I’m looking for some good quality rod blanks.  I have never built a flyrod so I don’t want to start with an expensive blank but if the job is successful I want a pretty good one.   thanks—knack Whitehouse, TX

I would suggest you consider the St. Croix, Pac Bay, or (slightly more expensive) the Powell blanks.  You may also be able to find a shop that has some blems that may be ok if you have  chance to look at them carefully. Lyman Lyman G. Hughes Dallas, TX Ennis, MT

Response:

writes: – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I’m looking for some good quality rod blanks.  I have never built a flyrod so I don’t want to start with an expensive blank but if the job is successful I want a pretty good one.   thanks—knack Whitehouse, TX Hi

NOTE: Combined posting for clear thread You might try Clemens, 444 Schantz Raod, Allentown, PA.  They have fly rod blanks from inexpensive to very expensive. I second that, they have discounted close-outs that they sell by the $/foot. Ask for their latest rod blank flyer. Don Burns

Response:

Question:

So now you know you must either dress the hook with thread, or you must not.  Hmmmmm.  Well, I guess that eventually becomes a matter of personal preference.  I prefer to have a thread base whether I’m spinning the hair (as with a Muddler head) or not (as with a Try-It or Caddis).  It has been my experience that I get a bit more control. If the problem you are having is with the spinning of the hair to distribute around the hook shank, then practice is the best answer.  Use a small clump of hair, warp the thread arond the hair and hook, all the way.  Then continue over the top and down the far side.  On your way down, tighten down on the thread, and release the hair from your (usually left) hand.  This USUALLY will draw the hair around the hook. An important part of making a Muddler head is to pack the hair backwards – away from the eye of the hook, and build it up a little bunch at a time.  It is generally sufficient to push it with your thunmbnail and index finger.  Then you can trim it as you see fit after the head is all roughed in and the thread is tied off. G’Luck Bob Lundy IWFFC Mississauga

Response:

I’m a beginning tyer who has been having trouble with making muddlers.   I’m hung up on the deer hair – have been having a hard time getting the hair to make that funky head.  ANy suggestions? THanks, JOnathan Vlaming Duluth, Minnesota (woke up to -43 today, WITHOUT the windchill!!)

I think we’ve all been there. It really helps to watch someone who’s good at it. If you don’t know anyone, try getting a video. I have heard people suggest the Jimmy Nix bass bug video  but I have not watched it. The Jack Dennis video, "Tying Western Trout Flys" has some good Information on different types of hair and what they are good for. Make sure you clean out all of the fuzz and any short hairs with a comb or your scissor points. I use larger bunches of hair than most people suggest. I also leave the hook shank bare under the head area. Good luck, Jay Whitworth

Response:

With all the good advice given, someone forgot to mention combing out the fuzz from the hair before you spin it.  You don’t have to get it all, just use a comb or scissor points or even your fingers to get most of it out.   This helps the spinning process considerably. Rob Gregoire Dallas, Tx

Response:

I’m a beginning tyer who has been having trouble with making muddlers.   I’m hung up on the deer hair – have been having a hard time getting the hair to make that funky head.  ANy suggestions? THanks, JOnathan Vlaming Duluth, Minnesota (woke up to -43 today, WITHOUT the windchill!!)

Hi Jonathan-    A cool trick is to wet the deer hair the let it get *almost* dry. It will spin and flair with ease. OK, well almost. Trick #2 is to trim with a razor blade rather than scissors. Trick #3 is to hit the head with a butane lighter or propane torch (lightly). It will burn all the stray hair even with the base head. Trick #4, have your wife tie it.    Tight heads, Ralph —

Response:

With all the good advice given, someone forgot to mention combing out the fuzz from the hair before you spin it.  You don’t have to get it all, just use a comb or scissor points or even your fingers to get most of it out.   This helps the spinning process considerably. Rob Gregoire Dallas, Tx

Take a run down to your local drug store, go to the cosmetics section and pick up an eyebrow comb… I got the one with metal teeth… real tight and does a great job on removing the fuzz from deer hair.

Response:

The hair you select is important.  Choose hair that is not brittle, such as coastal hair.  Spin it with a soft loop, then a tighter loop and finally a tight loop.  The last loop should spin the hair.  Pack it tight and start again until you get the head you are looking for.  Spinning hair is not easy to learn. I suggest you rent a good video or take a leson. Good luck!

Response:

Take a run down to your local drug store, go to the cosmetics section and pick up an eyebrow comb… I got the one with metal teeth… real tight and does a great job on removing the fuzz from deer hair.

Might also show up under the moniker of "mustache comb".  I use one (for fly tying) and am able to report it works quite well! Charley

Response:

With all the good advice given, someone forgot to mention combing out the fuzz from the hair before you spin it.  You don’t have to get it all, just use a comb or scissor points or even your fingers to get most of it out.   This helps the spinning process considerably. Rob Gregoire Dallas, Tx Take a run down to your local drug store, go to the cosmetics section and pick up an eyebrow comb… I got the one with metal teeth… real tight and does a great job on removing the fuzz from deer hair.

Static electricity is also a problem when working with any animal hair.   I use Static Guard to remove that problem.  You can find it in most super markets in the detergent/soap area. Good Luck Al Beatty BT’s Fly Fishing Products Bozeman, MT (catalog avail)

Response:

Recently viewed two videos by Chris Helm (Hooked on Fly Tying series). Chris answers most questions one could have about stacking and spinning deer hair.  Also, Dave Whitlock’s video on bass flies is quite a work. Between them, a tyer should have no trouble tying deer hair patterns for trout or bass.   VA Angler

Response:

I’ve enjoyed reading about various  techniques to improve spinning deer hair.  Has anyone tried STACKING deer hair?    I prefer this method over spinning. It allows me to segment the color of the bass bug I’m tying (white underneath, green on top).   You can create a very realistic fly.  Comments?

Response:

writes: Has anyone tried STACKING deer hair?    I prefer this method over spinning. It allows me to segment the color of the bass bug I’m tying (white underneath, green on top).   You can create a very realistic fly.  Comments?

As the saying goes,"You Betcha!"  You can see some good examples of the technique on Jimmy Nix’s Tying Bass Flies or Dave Whitlock’s 2 tape set. If you get a chance to see Mark Hoesner (sp?) at any of the shows, stop and watch as he is amazing.                                          Dan Dan Gracia                                                               Orvis West Coast Fly Fishing Schools If you kill that big fish you can’t catch ‘em again.  So what if they eat other fish?  If you kill the big ones there will only be little ones left (funny how that works!).

Response:

Just as a side note… Deer hair isn’t really hollow, its more a function of the number of air pockets that are in the hair. The hair on the back of the animal is less "hollow" than on the belly due to this feature of air pockets. I find that the belly hair is better for bass bug bodies and the back hair is better for collars. I really stay away from deer hair for caddis and use elk hair because even the worst deer hair still flares too much for my taste. Charles (Chuck) Abbott      The MITRE Corporation "There is not a single blackfly in the Adirondacks. All are married and have large families." Henry Wells

Response:

Both of the other posters have given excellent advise. If however, you still have trouble, get this video- "Tying Bass flies with Jimmy Nix". The man REALLY knows how to teach it. Good luck. — Phil Koenig Manhattan Custom Tackle Ltd. http://fishdoc.com./ "I’m the boss,so WHATEVER I say is OK"

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- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I’m a beginning tyer who has been having trouble with making muddlers.   I’m hung up on the deer hair – have been having a hard time getting the hair to make that funky head.  ANy suggestions? THanks, JOnathan Vlaming Duluth, Minnesota (woke up to -43 today, WITHOUT the windchill!!) OK, first pay close attention to the deer hair you’re using. The deer hair must be hollow, that crucial. You can try your deer hair when you push with your finger nail onto some deer hairs. If they spread very well -use it, if not- use it for deer hair caddis. BTW, the best hair for spinning is Caribou, try it (especially if you start tying Irresistibles). Another problem might be the thread – If you change from 8/0 to 6/0 you will less likely break the tread. I usually wind a base of thread before I spin the deer hair (before you start spinning the deer hair make one half hitch just in case you brake the tread). Take a small (!) bunch of deer hair, hold it onto the hook and make one tread turn and then pull it tight and make another turn exactly on top of the first- the deer hair will spread around the hook. Push the hair bach to the shank and make one half hitch (just in case you break the tread) and tie in the next bunch of Caribou. After you spinned enough deer hair whip finish (or make two half hitches- you can do the latter faster and it is equaly stable). Trim the hair with a razor blade. I don’t use a hair stacker for the deer hair (for the first bunch of deer hair you can if you like). I usually take a bunch and take out very long hairs, then I hold the bunch at the tip and pull out very short hairs and underfur. That is simply faster and it looks more natural to me. If you tie in the deer hair close to the base it spinns easier! Hope that helps               Thomas

Forgot to mention two things: The best introduction how to work with deer hair is probably in the WESTERN FLY TYING MANUAL VOL. II b= y Jack Dennis (revised edition!). One tip of Jack is: tie at least on dozen of each fly, with tying only two or three you won’t get = it- don’t be frustrated (I can confirm by myself, it works only this way: tie at least one or two dozen- the only way to get real go= od flies and to improve speed).                   Thomas – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – ——                                         /                       Harvard University                                                / Institute for Molecular and Cellular Biology                     / 16 Divinity Ave.                                                / Cambridge, MA 02138                                            / Tel: (USA) 617 495 3716                                       / Fax:  (USA)  617 495 9300                                 O  /                                                          |_/o                                                        / | _______

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I had the same hangup when I started.  I found that the thread and packer were key to success with deer hair.  First, a good strong thread (kevlar if you can afford the bulk) was critical for me as a beginner.  A descent packer helped, too – especially when using the heavier threads.  Lastly, try trimming with a razor if you’re not doing so already.  I’ve found the razor yeilds a much better shape when all is said and done. — Ray Anderson Fall River MA  USA "Imagination is more important than knowledge." –  Albert Einstein

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I’m a beginning tyer who has been having trouble with making muddlers.   I’m hung up on the deer hair – have been having a hard time getting the hair to make that funky head.  ANy suggestions? THanks, JOnathan Vlaming Duluth, Minnesota (woke up to -43 today, WITHOUT the windchill!!)

OK, first pay close attention to the deer hair you’re using. The deer hair must be hollow, that crucial. You can try your deer hair when you push with your finger nail onto some deer hairs. If they spread very well -use it, if not- use it for deer hair caddis. BTW, the best hair for spinning is Caribou, try it (especially if you start tying Irresistibles). Another problem might be the thread – If you change from 8/0 to 6/0 you will less likely break the tread. I usually wind a base of thread before I spin the deer hair (before you start spinning the deer hair make one half hitch just in case you brake the tread). Take a small (!) bunch of deer hair, hold it onto the hook and make one tread turn and then pull it tight and make another turn exactly on top of the first- the deer hair will spread around the hook. Push the hair bach to the shank and make one half hitch (just in case you break the tread) and tie in the next bunch of Caribou. After you spinned enough deer hair whip finish (or make two half hitches- you can do the latter faster and it is equaly stable). Trim the hair with a razor blade. I don’t use a hair stacker for the deer hair (for the first bunch of deer hair you can if you like). I usually take a bunch and take out very long hairs, then I hold the bunch at the tip and pull out very short hairs and underfur. That is simply faster and it looks more natural to me. If you tie in the deer hair close to the base it spinns easier! Hope that helps                Thomas ——                                          /                       Harvard University                                                / Institute for Molecular and Cellular Biology                     / 16 Divinity Ave.                                                / Cambridge, MA 02138                                            / Tel: (USA) 617 495 3716                                       / Fax:  (USA)  617 495 9300                                 O  /                                                           |_/o                                                         / | _______

Response:

I’m a beginning tyer who has been having trouble with making muddlers.   I’m hung up on the deer hair – have been having a hard time getting the hair to make that funky head.  ANy suggestions? THanks, JOnathan Vlaming Duluth, Minnesota (woke up to -43 today, WITHOUT the windchill!!)

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Try Fly & Field at http://www.flyfield.com. e-mail them and ask about Chris Helm’s deer hair products. He sorts the various hair from various species to get you just the stuff you need for the particular job. Todd

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I’m a beginning tyer who has been having trouble with making muddlers.   I’m hung up on the deer hair – have been having a hard time getting the hair to make that funky head.  ANy suggestions?

Practice if necessary with thread strong enough never to break; and be sure to comb out all fluff from hair butts first. Place a pinch (no more than will fit in a .22 shell case) of aligned hair across the naked hook shank (i.e. no thread base at all) and secure with two loose turns of thread.  Then pull gradually but quite hard, to spin thread around the hook while you tighten. If OK, keep tension on thread while you shove everything rearward with thumbnail(s) — not too much — and then spin on some more.  Only experience will indicate how much hair to use.  Sparse heads sink better, massive heads float better. — |  Donald Phillipson, 4180 Boundary Road, Carlsbad Springs,  | |        Ontario, Canada, K0A 1K0, tel. 613 822 0734         |

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Hi, I see another person steered you toward Chris Helm — he did you a real favour.  Chris has some great hair and you can reach him at 419-474-2348. His business is called White Tail Supplies or something like that. Just tell Chris what you need the hair for and he will make sure you get the right stuff. A tip: If you decide to go to a fly shop instead of calling Chris be sure to look for hair (in the packages, of course) that is basically light grey rather than dark grey.  The light grey hair will spin into a very nice muddler head BUT the dark grey hair will NOT. Good Luck! Al Beatty

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donald thanks for the advise as I am haveing the same problem. I am new to fly tying, and fishing, I just started flyfishing here in northern alberta, some very good streams, just have to learn how to catch some fish keith wyman

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Question:

Jay, One of the problems you might be having is that the mailing list stuff is all taken care of at TU National.  I’d try a call to national TU to see if they have you on the mailing list of the local chapter.  I don’t think many local chapters maintain there own lists.  They use labels they get from national.  I know that this problem has occurred with my local chapter.  Dave

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Such is the way of small groups. "That which belongs to all is cared for by none" I have been involved in a number of small groups (industry, alumni, etc.). Everyone wants more out of the group and have plenty of suggestions but nobody wants to do the work. In the rare insrtance that you do get a volunteer you’ve got a pretty high fallout rate.  I would assume different TU chapters have varying levels of activity depending on the amount of effort put in by the people. You’re looking at the most consistent method I’ve found for communicating with individuals about fly fishing.

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  I’m from Arizona and have had trouble on where to fish,when to fish,and what to use.  Sorry about the stupid questions, but I’m new to this sport.

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  I’m from Arizona and have had trouble on where to fish,when to fish,and what to use.  Sorry about the stupid questions, but I’m new to this sport.

Dear Filthyfly:         This is not a stupid.  The best advise I can give you is find a local flyfishing shop in your area.  Give them a call, get to know them.  If there isn’t a local speciality shop find the nearest sporting goods store.  They should have someone who can help you find areas to fish in and be able to give you information on what to use.  If neither of these is an option, there are listings in the back of the flyfishing magaqines for outfitters and shops. Many of these offer a toll free 800 service.  Give them a call and see if they can steer you in the right direction.           Good luck.  If you ever get up to Utah and are looking for places to go drop me a line and we’ll get you to some great places.   Tight Lines-Steve

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  I’m from Arizona and have had trouble on where to fish,when to fish,and what to use.  Sorry about the stupid questions, but I’m =

new to this sport. Dear Flyfisherman, I’d also look up a local chapter of Trout Unlimited in your area.  I am vice Pres of the Rapidan Chapter in Virginia and there is de= cades of experience in any chapter that will be absolutely free.  If you decide to join it will only cost $20/yr.   Besides teaching you how to fish they will also help you to understand how to protect and preserve what we have. Bill Althoff Flyfishing is Life; the rest is just details.

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  I’m from Arizona and have had trouble on where to fish,when to fish,and what to use.  Sorry about the stupid questions, but I’m = new to this sport. Dear Flyfisherman, I’d also look up a local chapter of Trout Unlimited in your area.  I am vice Pres of the Rapidan Chapter in Virginia and there is de= cades of experience in any chapter that will be absolutely free.  If you decide to join it will only cost $20/yr.   Besides teaching you how to fish they will also help you to understand how to protect and preserve what we have. Bill Althoff Flyfishing is Life; the rest is just details.

    Maybe I’m out of line here, but I am a little curious as to what I should expect from TU. I joined my local chapter about six months ago with high expectations of getting in touch with many fellow ffishers in my area.Looking forward to meetings and was even interested in attending weekend river restoration retreats.   Short of receiving a couple of old issues of the local newsletter which I had to call and request, and getting the usual package which contained the LOGO sticker (which BTW has since deteriated from my Suburban’s window), I have heard nothing. Now, I don’t expect any hand holding or certainly would not appreiciate a barage a calls, however, I would think that some sort of communication from my chapter regarding monthly meetings or such. Am I whinning to much???                                                             Jay

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– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text –    Maybe I’m out of line here, but I am a little curious as to what I should expect from TU. I joined my local chapter about six months ago with high expectations of getting in touch with many fellow ffishers in my area.Looking forward to meetings and was even interested in attending weekend river restoration retreats.  Short of receiving a couple of old issues of the local newsletter which I had to call and request, and getting the usual package which contained the LOGO sticker (which BTW has since deteriated from my Suburban’s window), I have heard nothing. Now, I don’t expect any hand holding or certainly would not appreiciate a barage a calls, however, I would think that some sort of communication from my chapter regarding monthly meetings or such. Am I whinning to much???

Jay, Various chapters of TU have differing amounts of activity, but TU’s forte has always been on a national basis.  That’s the biggest reason that Caltrout became such a force in California.  Most of the $ for TU from CA were leaving the state for projects elsewhere (national).  Caltrout spends all in CA and nowhere else (regional or local).  We need both types of organisations.  If your chapter is not active enough for your tastes, either get involved by finding projects (such as stream restoration) that need doing and start pushing from the bottom to get it started (I should warn you that you will probably be put in charge of such a project when you do) or contact the Federation of Fly Fishers and see if there is an affiliated club in the area.  Most of the fly fishing clubs in my area are affiliated with the FFF and often sponsor local projects.  Fly fishing clubs are great repositories of skill, knowledge, and bullshit.  They religiously have monthly meetings and feature skills, projects, fishouts, etc.  Give it a shot.                                                            Dan                                                        Dan Gracia                                                        Schools Coordinator                                                        Orvis West Coast Fly Fishing Schools

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Question:

I bought my first float tube in the 60s and my first pontoon boat (a Leigh) three  months ago.  I’ll never get in a float tube again.  I have the oars setup and it sure gets me back to my truck in winds a lot easier than finning a tube.  Also, the chap that mentioned that getting in and out of a tube once a session so it doesn’t bother him either fishes short days or is considerably younger than I with a much strong bladder — and I don’t mean a tube bladder.

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I’ve used both a tube and two other pontoon kickboats and would recomend the pontoon kickboats for the following reasons. Easier to get in and out of. You sit up higher and can see into the water better They’re faster than the traditional floatube With oar attachments they’re really faster! I use a JW Outfitters Backpacker that is easier to backpack into lakes than an inflated float tube. This one is made for backpacking. A group of us have been float tubing the boundary waters and Sylvania wilderness area for the last 7 years and live in our tubes 10 hours a day for a week, so I’m pretty peticular and have thought a lot about this. However, I’m now looking at the Hobie Float by Hobie Cat. It has roto molded pontoons and can be backpacked (24lbs). No more pumps and patches for the inflatable tubes!! Neat looking stuff. Local shop is getting a demo in and will probably fish it next week. As Dennis Miller says, " That’s just my opinion; I could be wrong." Good luck with your purchase. – Denny Redmond

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tell me more about Leigh ppontoon boats-e.g. size, wt, price etc.does it spin a lot in the wind like a boat?

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Rook, I do not know about Leigh pontoon boats but do know about the water otter.  It is 6ft 6inches X 44inches x 12inches weights 23 lb dry and about 32 with everthing.  The capacity is 300lbs.  Made out of 32oz. PVC 11oo Denier and the frame is 1 inch square aluminum tube.  I have used this oar pontoon boat on the Big Horn, Green River and the lower Sac.  I would not suggest that you get a kick pontoon boat ( with out the ability to use oars) a Caddis pontoon kick boat was used in the unfortunte (SP) accident last weekend on the green river.  Man died. Email me direct if you want more infor. on Water Otter.  Good luck. Regards, Joe – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -tell me more about Leigh ppontoon boats-e.g. size, wt, price etc.does it spin a lot in the wind like a boat?

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]I’d welcome any and all comments and recommendations. Well, here’s more than you ever wanted to hear about float tubes… I own the U Boat from The Creek Company.  Having used both round and U tubes, and recommend the U boat heavily, mainly for the ease of getting in and out of it.  There are probably a myriad of ways to get in and out of these things, but when you have flippers on, stepping through the middle of a round tube, while avoiding the seat, and still keeping your balance, well, let’s just say it takes practice.  I’ve also heard from people who’ve used a round boat for awhile, that it actually starts to wear the knees of neoprene waders, from the rubbing when you’re kicking in the water. I’ve used the Buck’s U tube, and unless they’ve changed it, what I didn’t like about it was the heavy metal bar that goes across the opening of the "U".  This is what keeps the open ends of the U from collapsing on your legs while you’re in the water.  The U Boat uses straps along the backside of the U to keep the open end of the U open and it works well.  (You pull them tight after inflating it.)  I didn’t like the bar on the Buck’s tube, because it added weight, and didn’t allow you to roll up the tube tightly when deflated. I had a chance to briefly demo both the U Boat and Gliderider (at a flyfishing show), and it was strictly a personal choice that I picked the U Boat.  I like the Gliderider, it seemed make me slouch, almost like a recliner chair.  With the U Boat, I was more upright.   I ended up buying my U Boat at the show, and their salesman made a strong pitch (as you would expect from a salesman) about their lifetime guarantee with NORMAL use, and how their seems are so much better sealed than competitors.  Take that for what it’s worth. Any shop worth its salt should let you demo a tube.  There are so many of these out there (and even more now with variants of pontoons & other "personal floatation devices"), that I think it would be impossible to make a decision based on catalogue pictures and testimony from others. Whatever you choose, enjoy!  These things are the greatest invention since the fly rod/ ree, and they’ll open up access to more water than you could get to without.  – Bill Uyeki

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I’d recommend a pontoon style.  It’s easier to handle colder water because you have less body in the water.  It’s easier to get around in larger laker because you can use oars — and in smaller lakes it is just as easy to manuver as a regular float tube. Brian

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– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -I’m about to buy my first float tube. I’ve ruled out the old round style and am leaning toward a u-shaped model although I have not ruled out a pontoon-type craft. I don’t want to spend more than $300. That puts me near the high end of u-boats. I’ve looked at the Buck’s Bullet and I’ve also received a recommendation for the Wood River Gliderunner. This is the low end for pontoon-style boats. I think Buck’s has one for $295. Don’t get me wrong, I would spend less than $300 but I want a good quality, well-designed product. Since this will be my only craft it must be versatile. My waters are large, potentially windy resevoirs and also small, walk-in lakes. I could conceivably also tube in the kelp beds off the coast here (So. Cal.) I’m 6′-4" and 190lbs. I’d welcome any and all comments and recommendations.

Hmmm…If/when you settle on a float tube, make sure that it’s sized appropriately. At 6′4" and 190 you may be riding low in the water with some of the tubes out there – especially the u-boats (speakin’ from experience – I’m 6′5", headin’ for 230 (ugh!) and I use a Buck’s Giant "old style" tube to keep me high on the water). Also, realize that while the u-boats are indeed easier to get in and out of, on a windy day the waves will be breaking on your chest instead of against the tube… Anyway…I’m partial to the tubes over the pontoons as the tubes are easier to pack into remote ponds up in the Maine/NH woods (of course, I do have a 12′ canoe for situations where I guess a pontoon would otherwise be used). Of course, this is all entirely subjective stuff… /dave <<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<< < Digital Equipment Corp.    Alpha Server Engineering  < <           "Read this and nobody gets hurt"           < <<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<

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   Well, not to be a party pooper, but I’ve been perfectly happy with my totally-basic-no-frills Caddis round tube…it’s as tough and sturdy as any other model they make…it just doesn’t have the Lay-Z-Boy recliner back and all the pockets.  Best of all, it only costs about $80.    Do you really need a "U-boat?"  Why?  I have no trouble getting in and out of mine (and I usually only need to do it once once I’m on the water).    Just my 2 cents’ worth. —         Scott Wilkinson         Montgomery County, Maryland

Response:

I have both a round tube and a Gliderider.  The Gliderider is definitely easier to use and easier to handle in wind.  While not a necessity, the V style is great.  I find that in the round tube, I bang up against the front of the tube when trying to move through the water quickly and it becomes annoying.  I am 6′ and I would imagine that at 6′ 4" you will have this problem too.  I was also attracted to the Gliderider because of its weight and portability.  At 6 lbs 11oz you can deflate it and stuff it into a duffel when traveling.  It’s easy to blow up without a pump (something you can’t do easily with a truck tire).  These lightweight bladders are available for a round tube but they cost ~ 50 – 80 bucks. You can buy a bigger and lighter round tube, but the cost will approach the Gliderider.  My girlfriend likes my round tube much better than the V tube because it lets her get a tan much easier without getting too wet. At least she can have a good time while I get to go fishing. Steve

Response:

I’ve had the Caddis Premier U-tube for the last 2 years and have been extremely happy.  Lots of pockets.  I especially like the spreader bar that goes across the front.  It keeps it spread open while setting in it, and removes easy for entry and exit.  Cabella’s have them advertized right now for I think $159 including a pair of flippers. I dont think you can beat the deal if you want a U tube.  I looked extensively 2 years ago and decided this was the one I liked best. Good luck, & tight lines. Don Albrecht Donald Albrecht

Response:

I’m about to buy my first float tube. I’ve ruled out the old round style and am leaning toward a u-shaped model although I have not ruled out a pontoon-type craft. I don’t want to spend more than $300. That puts me near the high end of u-boats. I’ve looked at the Buck’s Bullet and I’ve also received a recommendation for the Wood River Gliderunner. This is the low end for pontoon-style boats. I think Buck’s has one for $295. Don’t get me wrong, I would spend less than $300 but I want a good quality, well-designed product. Since this will be my only craft it must be versatile. My waters are large, potentially windy resevoirs and also small, walk-in lakes. I could conceivably also tube in the kelp beds off the coast here (So. Cal.) I’m 6′-4" and 190lbs. I’d welcome any and all comments and recommendations. Thanks, Tim

Response: