Question:

        With the 4 wt. line repaired, a new leader tied up, and an assortment of new flies to try, it was back to the pond this afternoon.  Had to leave work early to get some estimates on windshield repair after a gravel truck "rocked" me Monday evening, leaving a couple nasty chips in the windscreen. Bloody hell.  Got that taken care of (at least the estimating and insurance claim part), and had a few hours left to worry the panfish with my latest offerings.         At the tying bench, I rigged up some mosquito larvae, and three each of partridge and red, partridge and orange, and partridge and yellow soft hackles in #12.  It was supposed to be light wind today, and I suppose by ND standards it was (10-15 mph and a bit gusty).  Enough though to make casting the 4 wt. a bit interesting.         Taking a look at the water as I rigged up, I didn’t see any surface action, even in the sheltered areas.  Did note several "stalkers", hanging about a foot below the surface.  They would slowly rise at intervals, gently taking some tiny stuff on its way to the surface.  Hmmm, could be interesting…         Decided that since it’d been rather cool and cloudy for several days past, perhaps a brighter colour would be in order. Split the difference and tied on a partridge and orange.  A couple casts near a stalker had it charge the soft hackle and I brought the first fish to hand.  Promising start.         The fish were holding along a shade line about 25-30 ft. out. Delicate and accurate casting required, lest one put them down. The 4 wt. really shone here, even with having to deal with the wind.  Of course, I *did* manage to put them down on more than one occasion, but left to their own devices for 5 minutes or so, they’d take up station again.         This was quite a fascinating exercise — casting to these stalking fish.  If I dropped the fly within about 3-4" of their nose, they’d usually make a grab for it.  If it was closer than that, it’d spook the fish, and it’d go down.  Much further than 5" from their nose, and they’d be disinclined to chase it, often as not. Dragging the fly through the strike zone would induce some fish to strike and others to follow.  Some would follow for a considerable distance, say 10-15′+ before they either decided it looked good enough to eat (the less frequent case), or that it was something "fishy", and break off persuit.  Never could tell what would happen.         At least one fish came off his stalking station some three feet to whack the P&O with authority.  Others needed several casts more or less in front of their nose before they would either go down or give the fly a taste test.  Very visual fishing, and great fun!         Had one crappie take the P&O as well, and got him in close before he executed an LDR.  I worked the stalkers for quite a while before they finally went down to stay, and I moved to another part of the pond.         Here, I found cruisers working quite close to shore along with the suspending stalkers.  Flipped into a shade edge near where some of the stalkers were working, and got thumped, followed by a more vigorous than usual pull.  Most of the bluegill I’d been getting had been in the 7-8" range, with a few around 9", but this fish pulled like a freight train, relatively speaking.  Fought this fish for a couple minutes before bringing him up.  A real bull bluegill, measuring an honest 11", and biggest I’ve seen out of the pond!  Indeed, one of the larger ones I’ve *ever* taken on *any* tackle, let alone on a fly rod.         That was really neat, but what followed was even better. I noticed a rainbow cruising in the shade near the shoreline, and made a cast to it.  Haven’t had any great luck on the stocked rainbows, but this was about to change…  My cast went a bit beyond him, and off to one side.  Starting a slow retrieve, I could see him change direction and make a bee-line toward the fly. This is usually where they come up on it, and go "pbbbbtttt" at me.  Not this time!  He came right up to the fly, and in a whink the fly was gone.  Set the hook, and had the little beggar on the line!  He put on a good show with two nice jumps before I finally brought him to hand.  The tape said 11 3/4", and I was doing a happy dance for *finally* outwitting one of those finicky rainbows.  Deep intense green over the back, and nice colour on the sides to boot.  Very pretty fish.  On the other hand, it wasn’t exactly what one would call fat.  Looked more like an oversized, colourful smelt, save for the typical salmonid head. Suspect the forage base in the pond, which is near 100% insect life from what I’ve been able to observe, isn’t sufficient to fatten them up.         Had another rainbow follow the P&O and take a nip at it, but didn’t hook him up.  Went back to working bluegill, and wound up with a good number more brought to hand before I finally called it a day.  Quit counting bluegill after 50 fish caught and released, but would guess the total for the three hour session at 65-75 fish.  All on the same P&O soft hackle, which now is pretty well shredded, needless to say.         The trout was a nice bonus, after more than a few frustrating attempts and a couple near misses trying to bring one to hand. Been quite a while since I’ve caught trout while actually fishing for them.  The last  time I did was quite memorable.  One of my younger brothers and a friend of his wanted me to show them how to flyfish.  We went up to a trout lake, launched the boat, and messed around with spoons and such for some of the other species in the lake with no luck.  Brother starts to get on my case about fly fishing.  I rigged up the 7 wt., tied on a bead head GRHE, looked for a likely spot to make a cast, and launched my line.  Strip…  strip… strip.. *wham*, fish on!  After a brief fight, brought a nice, fat 15" rainbow to hand.  Unhooked the fish, put it in the livewell for a well-deserved trout dinner, unstrung and cased my rod, turned to brother and said "that, dear brother, is how you fly fish.".  I *did* work with him and his friend on casting, etc., but they didn’t catch cold, let alone any fish, and he lost interest in flyfishing shortly thereafter.  Indeed, he pretty well lost interest in fishing period, and took up golf instead.  Oh well, I tried! Todd

Response:

assortment of new flies to try, it was back to the pond this afternoon.

Thanks for another great pond trip report. i sure am enjoying your shareing your series of adventures at the pond. Big Dale

Response:

Question:

How many people?  Do you have a separate fly? Set out the ground cloth, set out the fly, work between them (it helps, but is not required, to have helpers stabilizing the fly). Depends a lot on specifics,such as tent style, etc. Practice at home. Dan — + – + – + – + – + – + – + – + – + – + – + – + – + – + – + – + – + – + – + – + – + – + – "Science finds, Industry applies, Man conforms." motto of the 1933 Chicago World’s Fair + – + – + – + – + – + – + – + – + – + – + – + – + – + – + – + – + – + – + – + – + – + –

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Speaking of packing a wet tent:  If you’re on a trip where the heavens just pour on you for a couple days’ straight, does anyone have any tips for setting a tent up IN the rain, so as to avoid getting the INSIDE of the tent (very) wet? [I've never had to do it...yet] set up a tarp first. Penny S I’m trying to LOSE weight from my pack, not add to it!! Ruger9 Then leave the tent home.  It weighs a lot more than the tarp. I spent 5 nights in Yellowstone last fall with only a tarp and it rained 4 of those 5 nights.  One night, we had 3 hours of thunderstorms with heavy rain.  Pitch the tent right (pay attention to the weather before you pitch it) and you stay dry. The morning after the thunderstorms, the two of us who slept under the tarp were up and out of camp in less than an hour.  The two who slept in tents that night waited two hours for their tents to dry and then complained that they didn’t have any time for fishing…

Response:

I’m trying to LOSE weight from my pack, not add to it!! Ruger9

Then skip the tent and just take a tarp.  That’s what I do anyway. There are a few tents — like the Wanderlust Nomad — made of Sil-nylon which does not absorb any water.  Shaking it removes all water. My tarp is made of sil-nylon.  After a couple shakes it’s completely dry.

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Speaking of packing a wet tent:  If you’re on a trip where the heavens just pour on you for a couple days’ straight, does anyone have any tips for setting a tent up IN the rain, so as to avoid getting the INSIDE of the tent (very) wet? [I've never had to do it...yet] set up a tarp first. Penny S I’m trying to LOSE weight from my pack, not add to it!! Ruger9

Then leave the tent home.  It weighs a lot more than the tarp. I spent 5 nights in Yellowstone last fall with only a tarp and it rained 4 of those 5 nights.  One night, we had 3 hours of thunderstorms with heavy rain.  Pitch the tent right (pay attention to the weather before you pitch it) and you stay dry. The morning after the thunderstorms, the two of us who slept under the tarp were up and out of camp in less than an hour.  The two who slept in tents that night waited two hours for their tents to dry and then complained that they didn’t have any time for fishing…

Response:

Speaking of packing a wet tent:  If you’re on a trip where the heavens just pour on you for a couple days’ straight, does anyone have any tips for setting a tent up IN the rain, so as to avoid getting the INSIDE of the tent (very) wet? [I've never had to do it...yet]

You’re lucky: where & when I normally go is the rainy season, and 3-4 days of solid rain isn’t all that uncommon. The worst part isn’t the tent getting wet so much as that by the 3rd day or so *everything* is either wet or 100% saturated. It’s easier if you can stay at a base camp and leave everything set up, but often that’s not do-able. Bummer packing around 20 lbs of water and very few people can remain optimistic on day no.4 of being cold & wet. I know you leave the doors & windows zipped closed, but if you set up the tent body, which is permeable nylon, and it’s getting poured on while you get the poles connected to it, all that water is going to eventually end up inside the tent, I would think…

It depends on the tent. I can do that with the 1-man (actually I put the poles in position under the rainfly and then raise the tent with the rainfly laying on top of it). The 2-man or family tents need to have the windows or doors open -particularly if the fabric is wet- else they don’t want to go up at all. With them I just do it as quickly as possible and then mop up the floor when it’s up. Maybe unroll the tent, quickly put the whole mess under the fly, and do everything under the rain fly, as best as possible?

And that works if it’s not too windy. — JLG

Response:

Single wall, tent (e.g., Stephensons) Popup Rainfly first (if so built) Tarp. Sulk inside your poncho until you get desperate enough. Pack a large sponge. Practice like NASCAR pitcrews do.  If they can change 4 tires, add 40 gal of fuel, clean the windshield, tweak the suspension, read the joke section of Playboy, and conduct an interview with a sports announcer in 17 secs, then it seems a simple matter to toss a tent up and get in it before getting too damp. But then it all goes to hell in a kitbag if there are big winds as well.

Response:

just pour on you for a couple days’ straight, does anyone have any tips for setting a tent up IN the rain, so as to avoid getting the INSIDE of the tent (very) wet?

Waiting can help.  There are steady rains and there are downpours, but even a hurricane has an eye.  Eventually, rain lets up a little, even if it doesn’t stop.   Steve Silberberg Steve’s Tiny Book of Romance http://www.callipygianproductions.com/stbor/stbor.html "For man so feared his ignorance, that he created god in his image"-Eric 3:16

Response:

Speaking of packing a wet tent:  If you’re on a trip where the heavens just pour on you for a couple days’ straight, does anyone have any tips for setting a tent up IN the rain, so as to avoid getting the INSIDE of the tent (very) wet? [I've never had to do it...yet] set up a tarp first. Penny S

I’m trying to LOSE weight from my pack, not add to it!! Ruger9

Response:

| Speaking of packing a wet tent:  If you’re on a trip where the heavens | just pour on you for a couple days’ straight, does anyone have any | tips for setting a tent up IN the rain, so as to avoid getting the | INSIDE of the tent (very) wet? | [I've never had to do it...yet] | | I know you leave the doors & windows zipped closed, but if you set up | the tent body, which is permeable nylon, and it’s getting poured on | while you get the poles connected to it, all that water is going to | eventually end up inside the tent, I would think… | | Maybe unroll the tent, quickly put the whole mess under the fly, and | do everything under the rain fly, as best as possible? | | Ruger9 I pitch a tarp first, then the tent underneath it. — FlyingCoyote http://www.boarsgut.com —

Response:

[ Ruger9 ] Speaking of packing a wet tent:  If you’re on a trip where the heavens just pour on you for a couple days’ straight, does anyone have any tips for setting a tent up IN the rain, so as to avoid getting the INSIDE of the tent (very) wet?

Use a tent where you pitch the outer first, like Hilleberg or Helsport (the primary brand here in Norway). I’ve camped in too much bad weather to risk using one where the inner is pitched first. I see how using only the inner is nice in places with very stable weather and bugs, but I don’t trust the weather around here that much. Martin — "An ideal world is left as an exercise to the reader."                                                  -Paul Graham, On Lisp

Response:

Speaking of packing a wet tent:  If you’re on a trip where the heavens just pour on you for a couple days’ straight, does anyone have any tips for setting a tent up IN the rain, so as to avoid getting the INSIDE of the tent (very) wet? [I've never had to do it...yet] I know you leave the doors & windows zipped closed, but if you set up the tent body, which is permeable nylon, and it’s getting poured on while you get the poles connected to it, all that water is going to eventually end up inside the tent, I would think… Maybe unroll the tent, quickly put the whole mess under the fly, and do everything under the rain fly, as best as possible? Ruger9

That generally is the way to go, but some designs are better for this than others. Ideal would be the ones where you can set up poles and fly, then open the groundsheet and body underneath. There are also designs from TNF and Walrus which have the poles pre-attached, which speeds up set up. Of course, with practice and teamwork, you can set up in a few minutes. Happy trails, Gary (net.yogi.bear) at the 51st percentile of ursine intelligence Gary D. Schwartz, Needham, MA, USA Please reply to: garyDOTschwartzATpoboxDOTcom

Response:

Speaking of packing a wet tent:  If you’re on a trip where the heavens just pour on you for a couple days’ straight, does anyone have any tips for setting a tent up IN the rain, so as to avoid getting the INSIDE of the tent (very) wet? [I've never had to do it...yet] I know you leave the doors & windows zipped closed, but if you set up the tent body, which is permeable nylon, and it’s getting poured on while you get the poles connected to it, all that water is going to eventually end up inside the tent, I would think… Maybe unroll the tent, quickly put the whole mess under the fly, and do everything under the rain fly, as best as possible? Ruger9

Response:

Speaking of packing a wet tent:  If you’re on a trip where the heavens just pour on you for a couple days’ straight, does anyone have any tips for setting a tent up IN the rain, so as to avoid getting the INSIDE of the tent (very) wet? [I've never had to do it...yet]

set up a tarp first. Penny S

Response:

Question:

Take it for what you think its worth, and if the shoe fits wear it.shade tree means exactly that. In the south we have another term for it.but I won’t go there! – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – x<-Thanks for your input, but I don’t think most of us are real concerned with x<-what OSHA thinks.  We are more concerned with using reasonably safe methods x<-to actually get things done.  The tire shop that mounted my new 10 ply tires x<-shortly before the example I cited is forced to use  compressed air in their x<-shop, instantaneously released from a portable container to do the same x<-thing!  It would have been impossible to do in the tight quarters the wheel x<-was in, and the wheel could not be removed.  If a REPUTABLE tire shop made x<-the house call, they would have done the same thing, at least in the real x<-world!  If you haven’t tried it…don’t knock it.  I don’t like the term x<-"Shade tree types" …it suggests inferior! x<-George Willer x<- x<- Really? Most reputable tire shops weather its a  general tires or huge x<- equipment tires usually have the required equipment to do the job. I x<- don’t really think OSHA or their insurance companies would like them x<- using ether or anything else like that for inflating or seating tires x<- on a rim. Backyard or shade tree types may use the flamable gas method x<- not reputable ones. x<- x<- x<- x<- x<- x<- x<-ether is the method used at truck garages. x<- x<- x<- x<— x<- x<-Steve Spence x<- x<-Subscribe to the Renewable Energy Newsletter: x<- x<-http://www.webconx.com/subscribe.htm x<- x<- x<- x<-Renewable Energy Pages – http://www.webconx.com x<- x<-Palm Pilot Pages – http://www.webconx.com/palm x<- x<-X10 Home Automation – http://www.webconx.com/x10 x<- x<-(212) 894-3704 x3154 – voicemail/fax x<- x<-We do not inherit the earth from our ancestors, x<- x<-we borrow it from our children. x<- x<- Opinions are strictly those of my wife….I have had no input whatsoever. x<- Remove capital A from chipmkr for correct email address x<- Regards x<- Foxeye x<-

Opinions are strictly those of my wife….I have had no input whatsoever. Remove capital A from chipmkr for correct email address Regards Foxeye

Response:

Thanks for your input, but I don’t think most of us are real concerned with what OSHA thinks.  We are more concerned with using reasonably safe methods to actually get things done.  The tire shop that mounted my new 10 ply tires shortly before the example I cited is forced to use  compressed air in their shop, instantaneously released from a portable container to do the same thing!  It would have been impossible to do in the tight quarters the wheel was in, and the wheel could not be removed.  If a REPUTABLE tire shop made the house call, they would have done the same thing, at least in the real world!  If you haven’t tried it…don’t knock it.  I don’t like the term "Shade tree types" …it suggests inferior! George Willer

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Really? Most reputable tire shops weather its a  general tires or huge equipment tires usually have the required equipment to do the job. I don’t really think OSHA or their insurance companies would like them using ether or anything else like that for inflating or seating tires on a rim. Backyard or shade tree types may use the flamable gas method not reputable ones. x<-ether is the method used at truck garages. x<- x<— x<-Steve Spence x<-Subscribe to the Renewable Energy Newsletter: x<-http://www.webconx.com/subscribe.htm x<- x<-Renewable Energy Pages – http://www.webconx.com x<-Palm Pilot Pages – http://www.webconx.com/palm x<-X10 Home Automation – http://www.webconx.com/x10 x<-(212) 894-3704 x3154 – voicemail/fax x<-We do not inherit the earth from our ancestors, x<-we borrow it from our children. Opinions are strictly those of my wife….I have had no input whatsoever. Remove capital A from chipmkr for correct email address Regards Foxeye

Response:

guess I wasn’t working for reputable types…… — Steve Spence Subscribe to the Renewable Energy Newsletter: http://www.webconx.com/subscribe.htm Renewable Energy Pages – http://www.webconx.com Palm Pilot Pages – http://www.webconx.com/palm X10 Home Automation – http://www.webconx.com/x10 (212) 894-3704 x3154 – voicemail/fax We do not inherit the earth from our ancestors, we borrow it from our children. —

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Really? Most reputable tire shops weather its a  general tires or huge equipment tires usually have the required equipment to do the job. I don’t really think OSHA or their insurance companies would like them using ether or anything else like that for inflating or seating tires on a rim. Backyard or shade tree types may use the flamable gas method not reputable ones. x<-ether is the method used at truck garages. x<- x<— x<-Steve Spence x<-Subscribe to the Renewable Energy Newsletter: x<-http://www.webconx.com/subscribe.htm x<- x<-Renewable Energy Pages – http://www.webconx.com x<-Palm Pilot Pages – http://www.webconx.com/palm x<-X10 Home Automation – http://www.webconx.com/x10 x<-(212) 894-3704 x3154 – voicemail/fax x<-We do not inherit the earth from our ancestors, x<-we borrow it from our children. Opinions are strictly those of my wife….I have had no input whatsoever. Remove capital A from chipmkr for correct email address Regards Foxeye

Response:

Really? Most reputable tire shops weather its a  general tires or huge equipment tires usually have the required equipment to do the job. I don’t really think OSHA or their insurance companies would like them using ether or anything else like that for inflating or seating tires on a rim. Backyard or shade tree types may use the flamable gas method not reputable ones. x<-ether is the method used at truck garages. x<- x<— x<-Steve Spence x<-Subscribe to the Renewable Energy Newsletter: x<-http://www.webconx.com/subscribe.htm x<- x<-Renewable Energy Pages – http://www.webconx.com x<-Palm Pilot Pages – http://www.webconx.com/palm x<-X10 Home Automation – http://www.webconx.com/x10 x<-(212) 894-3704 x3154 – voicemail/fax x<-We do not inherit the earth from our ancestors, x<-we borrow it from our children.

Opinions are strictly those of my wife….I have had no input whatsoever. Remove capital A from chipmkr for correct email address Regards Foxeye

Response:

ether is the method used at truck garages. — Steve Spence Subscribe to the Renewable Energy Newsletter: http://www.webconx.com/subscribe.htm Renewable Energy Pages – http://www.webconx.com Palm Pilot Pages – http://www.webconx.com/palm X10 Home Automation – http://www.webconx.com/x10 (212) 894-3704 x3154 – voicemail/fax We do not inherit the earth from our ancestors, we borrow it from our children. —

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – The lighter fluid method can be harmful to a tire, as any petroleum product can be hard on the rubber.  A better thing to use, if necessary, IMHO, is ether starting fluid.  It is very effective, and need not be dangerous. It will be most scary to those who haven’t done it, little kids, and old ladies.  The band clamp method works fine on bias tires, but is of little use on radial tires, especially if they are distorted from storage.  I have used the ether method on 10 ply trailer tires that have sat long enough to have taken a permanent set…and with the weight of a dozer on the trailer. Nearly impossible by any other method.  I used it the first time in desperation (the trailer was blocked in and couldn’t be moved), but now I know how well it works, I don’t hesitate.  The one possible drawback…some unburned ether may remain in the tire to be a hazard to the next person to work on the tire, if they don’t know it’s there. On those little cart tires…just re-inflate them.  They’ll re-seat just fine.  No big deal.  Live and learn. George Willer OK, I’m an idiot. In my haste to move the last of my stone dust out of the way of the impending rain, I overloaded my tractor cart.  Nothing serious, but both tires came off the rims and are now flat. There doesn’t seem to be any damage to either tire, but I’m not too sure of how to seat them back on the rims and reinflate them. If I just inflate, will they just "pop" back on? Do I need a technique? Any BTDT’s appreciated. I have seen a very dangerous method to do this in an emergency. Squirt lighter fluid inside, around the rim and light. Very dangerous, but I have seen it work. I’d never do it. The belt method is the one I use, with a high volume compressor. — RANDOM THOUGHT FEED

Question:

It looks like I’ll be in Switzerland next August. I was thinking that this might be a chance to try some European flyfishing. Anyone have suggestions about what would be good that time of year? It doesn’t have to be near Switzerland. This is a free trip, so I can afford to splurge on extra travel.

August is not exactly the best time for fishing here, but whatever, drop me a mail a little before the time and I will arrange something. Do it at least a month or so beforehand, and I will try and organise a license and everything for you if you would like to have a go here in Germany. I will try and send you some info on Switzerland as well. Your best bet for reasonable fishing is probably Austria. Tight lines ! MC

Response:

It looks like I’ll be in Switzerland next August. I was thinking that this might be a chance to try some European flyfishing. Anyone have suggestions about what would be good that time of year? It doesn’t have to be near Switzerland. This is a free trip, so I can afford to splurge on extra travel. — visit my web site: http://home.earthlink.net/~royalwulff/ something bogus to avoid spam)

Response:

Question:

What is the relationship between flyline weight and weight carrying capacity (eg, lbs)?

Response:

Jtfunai: <<What is the relationship between flyline weight and weight carrying capacity (eg, lbs)? None, although a 1 wt line might be easier to "break" than an 8 wt. I have never heard of anyone breaking their line on *anything*. The tippet is the first thing to break. Dave L.

Response:

What is the relationship between flyline weight and weight carrying capacity (eg, lbs)?

There basically is no real relationship. The breaking strain of the fly-line core is the main criterion here, and this is far higher than is likely ever to be broken by a fish, assuming it is not damaged.  The weight of a fly-line is primarily determined by its coating, irrespective of the core diameter, which is basically a plastic full of glass bubbles in the case of a floater, and with lead or other powder in the case of a sinker.  The core of the line is invariably a synthetic such as Terylene or similar, and may vary from manufacturer to manufacturer, as does the coating.  The "breaking strain" of a fly-line is basically irrelevant, and is seldom given by the manufacturer.  I remember seeing a level floating  line some years ago where the B.S. was given, as 60 lbs, but have not seen any such data recently. TL MC

Response:

Thanks Dave. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Jtfunai: <<What is the relationship between flyline weight and weight carrying capacity (eg, lbs)? None, although a 1 wt line might be easier to "break" than an 8 wt. I have never heard of anyone breaking their line on *anything*. The tippet is the first thing to break. Dave L.

Response:

Thanks Mike. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – What is the relationship between flyline weight and weight carrying capacity (eg, lbs)? There basically is no real relationship. The breaking strain of the fly-line core is the main criterion here, and this is far higher than is likely ever to be broken by a fish, assuming it is not damaged.  The weight of a fly-line is primarily determined by its coating, irrespective of the core diameter, which is basically a plastic full of glass bubbles in the case of a floater, and with lead or other powder in the case of a sinker.  The core of the line is invariably a synthetic such as Terylene or similar, and may vary from manufacturer to manufacturer, as does the coating.  The "breaking strain" of a fly-line is basically irrelevant, and is seldom given by the manufacturer.  I remember seeing a level floating  line some years ago where the B.S. was given, as 60 lbs, but have not seen any such data recently. TL MC

Response:

I agree with the other two posts with regards to weight of quarry and breaking strength of the line.  There are to many factors that would determine the breaking strength of the line while being fished.  Such as the rod and tippet being used.  The tippet will usually break before the rod and the rod before the line.  With the shock absorbing capabilities of the rod and the leader or tippet it is hard to imagine the line ever breaking on a fish unless it had been cut on something. I however just broke a Rio 9/10/11 Spey line on a snag in the Thompson River.  I was never able to see what it was snagged on but it must have been sharp.  Line weight really has no correlation with the weight of fish.  Although you would not want to use a small diameter line such as a one weight for Tarpon! Before you buy.

Response:

I agree with the other two posts with regards to weight of quarry and breaking strength of the line.  There are to many factors that would determine the breaking strength of the line while being fished.  Such as the rod and tippet being used.  The tippet will usually break before the rod and the rod before the line.  With the shock absorbing capabilities of the rod and the leader or tippet it is hard to imagine the line ever breaking on a fish unless it had been cut on something. I however just broke a Rio 9/10/11 Spey line on a snag in the Thompson River.  I was never able to see what it was snagged on but it must have been sharp.  Line weight really has no correlation with the weight of fish.  Although you would not want to use a small diameter line such as a one weight for Tarpon! Before you buy.

Response:

There is no relationship as far as I know. Traditional fly lines have a dacron core of only 20-35lb breaking strain (light lines with the thinner dacron) – of course this is plenty for normal fishing conditions. If the lines are old and cracked the dacron can deteriorate reducing the breaking strain. I know a couple of people who have broken the line when using 10kg tippet on tuna – one was a heavily used old Cortland, the other an Airflo (when they were at their worst). I broke a 3M wet cell IV once in Fiji after snagging it on the reef – it seemed like 80lb!! Some of the newest lines with braided monofilament may be stronger. Cheers John Knight Sydney FlyRodders’

Response:

What is the relationship between flyline weight and weight carrying capacity (eg, lbs)?

Hi JF, I think that lines #4, 5, 6 and 7 are built up on a 20# braided dacron core. #8 and larger are built on a 30# braided dacron core. I guess the new #0, 1 and 2 lines are on something smaller in diameter than 20#? This is real evident when you are trying to pull 30# backing or cheap 20# backing up inside the core of a #6 line to make a needle nail knot.

Response:

Question:

    Another question from me.. what is the best temp.(water temp) do the fish work at have been trying to read anything on the situation but so far have had no luck and am reluctant to ask the folks at the shop in case they think I am crazy.. have heard different numbers being bandied about but am wondering in specific areas like here in the foothills (calgary to be exact) what a "right" temperature might be?? Any ideas would be appreciated thanks for lending an ear and a hand in advice! Pierre

Response:

trout can be very active at water temp 45F to 65F,    53-57 best.  Depends greatly on the local adaptations, and the "hatches". Schuhfly

Response:

Also 35F to 40F water as on the San Juan. Devon – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – trout can be very active at water temp 45F to 65F,    53-57 best.  Depends greatly on the local adaptations, and the "hatches". Schuhfly

Response:

    Another question from me.. what is the best temp.(water temp) do the fish work at have been trying to read anything on the situation but so far have had no luck and am reluctant to ask the folks at the shop in case they think I am crazy.. have heard different numbers being bandied

Fish prefer different water temperatures, when they are likely to feed most actively, e.g. approx. 60 Fahr. for stream trout, 70 for smallmouth bass, etc.  Recommended temperatures are in several books, e.g. McClane’s Fishing Encyclopedia.  Water temp. is a guide how to fish, e.g. wet or dry, not whether to fish or not.  If you can present a fly really close to a fish without scaring him, he is likely to take it whatever the temperature. — |  Donald Phillipson, 4180 Boundary Road, Carlsbad Springs,  | |        Ontario, Canada, K0A 1K0, tel. 613 822 0734         |

Response:

The "rule" I follow is to ensure that the air and water temp. do not vary by more than 10 c. This is for Atlantic Salmon fishing in the Maritimes. I cannot tell you if there is any documentation on this, however, the "good old boys" on the River will say this.                                           Robert – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text –    Another question from me.. what is the best temp.(water temp) do the fish work at have been trying to read anything on the situation but so far have had no luck and am reluctant to ask the folks at the shop in case they think I am crazy.. have heard different numbers being bandied about but am wondering in specific areas like here in the foothills (calgary to be exact) what a "right" temperature might be?? Any ideas would be appreciated thanks for lending an ear and a hand in advice! Pierre

Response:

   Another question from me.. what is the best temp.(water temp) do the fish work at have been trying to read anything on the situation but so far have had no luck and am reluctant to ask the folks at the shop in case they think I am crazy.. have heard different numbers being bandied about but am wondering in specific areas like here in the foothills (calgary to be exact) what a "right" temperature might be?? Any ideas would be appreciated thanks for lending an ear and a hand in advice! Pierre

Hi All, Different species have different comfort ranges. I think that the activity can vary from stream to stream depending the norm. I have noticed that trout feed better between 55 and 65 degrees. If the water is a little too cold, I always fish more in the mid-day when the water is warming. If the water is too warm, I fish very early and late in the day when the water is cooler. Most fisheries have a two to six week window in the spring/early summer when the water is coming down and warming with all the larger bugs hatching. They can have a fall season too, when the water is cooling and the fish are feeding up for winter. Here in Northern California on a normal snow pack/runoff year, June and October are our top months for trout at a medium elevation (2,000 to 6,000′). Bill Kiene Kiene’s Fly Shop Sacramento,CA,USA 800/4000FLY www.kiene.com

Response:

trout can be very active at water temp 45F to 65F,    53-57 best.  Depends greatly on the local adaptations, and the "hatches".

…and the species.  Lake trout like it colder than Brown trout, for example. Also I find trout seem to tolerate excesses of cold more than heat. — -Wayne Trzyna                           Fight spam! Join CAUCE (Coalition  http://www.cs.colostate.edu/~trzyna    See http://www.cauce.org/

Response:

Question:

: I think you sighted Eugene Miya. He has not been seen here recently. Nope. Twern’t a wolverine. (Go Buckeyes)

What a jab. I could care less about organized sports. Dave – cruel, but fair – Mann

Gad, where’s you get that monker? Better to be fair and not cruel.

Response:

Was he carrying a chainsaw?

        Oh, I’m a lumber jack, and I’m okay….

Response:

Was he carrying a chainsaw?        Oh, I’m a lumber jack, and I’m okay….

But do you dress up in women’s just like dear old Papa?

Response:

Was he carrying a chainsaw?        Oh, I’m a lumber jack, and I’m okay…. But do you dress up in women’s just like dear old Papa?

Naw, the old man was pretty butch. Most of the women I know associate with wear pants, too.

Response:

I don’t see any reason why a woodchuck wouldn’t go up to 3000 feet–it’s not really that high. But, could your critter have been a mink? I don’t really know anything about the subtle differences between these weasly critters, but you didn’t mention mink as a possibility so I thought I’d throw it out there. Rob

Response:

Dave – I have run into Pine Martins on 3 separate occasions in the Daks. (I used to own some Ferrets as well) 2 in trees and one on the ground. I even had a tug a war over a bag of oyster crackers one afternoon.  I was sitting on the edge of a lean to and she poked her head out from under the L/T and grabbed a bag of crackers that was in my hand (I was sitting, leaning down with my wrists on my knees). Your description sounds almost Identical to all 3 (One of the ones in the tree was at about 3800′. I stopped at a trail junction in February 96 for a break and heard a slight noise and turned my head and it was about 15 feet away standing on a spruce bough.  Scared the bejeepers outta me for a second.we both looked at each other and it climbed back across the branch   to the trunk and disappeared in the spruce thicket. Good luck Rick Story 46R#4217

Response:

Dave, Did this critter have dark ears?  Cute bugger, dark ears, shortish face, black nose, blondish yellow body long black tail.  I can see it in my mind but can’t remember what it is. Jeff Wilson "And now these three remain; faith, hope and love.  But the greatest of these is love." …… Seek harmony and balance in the mountains. Find harmony and balance within…..

Response:

: I think you sighted Eugene Miya. He has not been seen here recently. Nope. Twern’t a wolverine. (Go Buckeyes) And it wasn’t Norman the Hedgehog and I wasn’t feeling paranoid. Dave – cruel, but fair – Mann

Response:

: Woodchuck, Marten or Fisher? : The track was definitely in the weasle family. One clear : center pad with 5 distinct toes. The track was about 1 : inch across which puts it squarely in between the sizes : for the marten and fisher in my track book.

: I am going to venture to say….none of the above.  Based on your description I : would say it  was a mink. : Let me know what you think and we could go around on it for fun if need be. OK, I really goofed. I went back and checked my (tiny) track book and I was way off on the track sizes. The book puts the fisher track way up around 6.5 cm. The tracks I saw were no where near that big. So that rules out the fisher. Also, the book notes that woodchucks have only 4 toes on the front and the tracks we saw had 5 toes on all 4 feet. So that rules out the woodchuck for sure (shaking his head to clear the cobwebs), as if I don’t know what a woodchuck looks like. James, One thing that surprised me was how blonde this little guy was and how big of a contrast there was between the color of the body and the almost black tail. Are minks colored like this? Also, I noted that the rear quarters had lots of fluffy fur trailing off of the back edge of the legs. I have a mental picture of minks that is much sleeker. The pic in my book is inadequate on both acounts. Judging from tracks alone, I would guess either mink or marten and yes, being by the brook would favor the mink. But what about the coloration?

: leaves off.  The ones I’ve seen have been medium- to : dark-brown (no, they weren’t in the wild, they live : at the trailside museum at the Blue Hills, which is : part of their historic range).  As far as size, I I’m pretty partial to the Bobcat over there, myself. Dave Mann           | "It is impossible, or not easy, to do                     |  noble acts without the proper equipment."

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Woodchuck, Marten or Fisher? This weekend we scared a poor critter half to death. I want it to be a Fisher but I’m not sure. It was about the size of a house cat only lower. Perhaps 10" tall. It was a dark honey blonde in color and it had a dark brown tail — almost black. The tail looked to be about 8" long and bushy. I didn’t get a good look at the head and neck but it appeared that the neck was shorter and thicker than the drawings of Martens and Fishers that I’ve seen. But then again, the coloration was nothing like any woodchuck I’ve ever seen. For that matter, the body and tail didn’t look like a woodchuck. And it moved faaaast, a lot faster than any woodchuck I’ve chased out of my wife’s garden. We came across this little guy by still mostly frozen over stream in the northern Presis in NH at an altitude of 3000 feet — a bit high for woodchucks I would think but who knows.

Also a bit high for a river otter, I would think, but I’m not sure.  Did you consider that?  They are native to New England, not real common any more, but… They look very weasel-like, long and slinky and without lots of real definite widenings or narrowings where the head or neck or shoulders begin or the tail leaves off.  The ones I’ve seen have been medium- to dark-brown (no, they weren’t in the wild, they live at the trailside museum at the Blue Hills, which is part of their historic range).  As far as size, I think of them as x inches long rather than tall… from about 18" snout to tail to maybe 30" for the big ones.  They can move very fast, swim like seals, and are pretty smart IIRC. Anyway, it’s a very cool sighting.  Thanks for posting about it. — ::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::         "They write books that contradict the rocks…"

Response:

I think you sighted Eugene Miya. He has not been seen here recently.

Response:

Was he carrying a chainsaw? — Jeff Wilson "And now these three remain; faith, hope and love.  But the greatest of these is love." …… Seek harmony and balance in the mountains. Find harmony and balance within…..

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -Woodchuck, Marten or Fisher? This weekend we scared a poor critter half to death. I want it to be a Fisher but I’m not sure. It was about the size of a house cat only lower. Perhaps 10" tall. It was a dark honey blonde in color and it had a dark brown tail — almost black. The tail looked to be about 8" long and bushy. I didn’t get a good look at the head and neck but it appeared that the neck was shorter and thicker than the drawings of Martens and Fishers that I’ve seen. But then again, the coloration was nothing like any woodchuck I’ve ever seen. For that matter, the body and tail didn’t look like a woodchuck. And it moved faaaast, a lot faster than any woodchuck I’ve chased out of my wife’s garden. We came across this little guy by still mostly frozen over stream in the northern Presis in NH at an altitude of 3000 feet — a bit high for woodchucks I would think but who knows. The track was definitely in the weasle family. One clear center pad with 5 distinct toes. The track was about 1 inch across which puts it squarely in between the sizes for the marten and fisher in my track book. This would suggest to me that it was a small fisher and not a monster marten. But again, who knows. The track was clear with no sign of any winter pad. My track book shows a padded winter track for the marten but despite the fact taht there was lots of snow on the ground, this is the end of April and I don’t know when the marten looses his winter pad, so I can’t really rule it out. The guide book I have notes that the marten usually stays up in a tree and his track is rarely seen. On the other hand, the fisher is commonly found around streams. This suggests to me that it was a fisher, just like the size does. So, I’ve convinced myself that it was NOT a marten and thus it was either a smallish fisher or a very ambitious (altitude-wise) woodchuck. What I don’t know anything about is the coloration of either the fisher or the marten. Anyone? Also, do woodchucks go up that high? Anyone? Really, it didn’t look anything like a woodchuck.

Dave, I am going to venture to say….none of the above.  Based on your description I would say it  was a mink. Let me know what you think and we could go around on it for fun if need be. James Ehlers Uncle Jammer’s Guide Service 1997 Guide of the Year Vermont Fly Fishing, Hunting, River and Woodland Outings http://pobox.com/~uncle

Response:

Woodchuck, Marten or Fisher? This weekend we scared a poor critter half to death. I want it to be a Fisher but I’m not sure. It was about the size of a house cat only lower. Perhaps 10" tall. It was a dark honey blonde in color and it had a dark brown tail — almost black. The tail looked to be about 8" long and bushy. I didn’t get a good look at the head and neck but it appeared that the neck was shorter and thicker than the drawings of Martens and Fishers that I’ve seen. But then again, the coloration was nothing like any woodchuck I’ve ever seen. For that matter, the body and tail didn’t look like a woodchuck. And it moved faaaast, a lot faster than any woodchuck I’ve chased out of my wife’s garden. We came across this little guy by still mostly frozen over stream in the northern Presis in NH at an altitude of 3000 feet — a bit high for woodchucks I would think but who knows. The track was definitely in the weasle family. One clear center pad with 5 distinct toes. The track was about 1 inch across which puts it squarely in between the sizes for the marten and fisher in my track book. This would suggest to me that it was a small fisher and not a monster marten. But again, who knows. The track was clear with no sign of any winter pad. My track book shows a padded winter track for the marten but despite the fact taht there was lots of snow on the ground, this is the end of April and I don’t know when the marten looses his winter pad, so I can’t really rule it out. The guide book I have notes that the marten usually stays up in a tree and his track is rarely seen. On the other hand, the fisher is commonly found around streams. This suggests to me that it was a fisher, just like the size does. So, I’ve convinced myself that it was NOT a marten and thus it was either a smallish fisher or a very ambitious (altitude-wise) woodchuck. What I don’t know anything about is the coloration of either the fisher or the marten. Anyone? Also, do woodchucks go up that high? Anyone? Really, it didn’t look anything like a woodchuck. Dave Mann           | "It is impossible, or not easy, to do                     |  noble acts without the proper equipment."

Response:

Question:

Why is anyone bothering to answer questions about catfish BAIT? This is FLYFISHING. We don’t use BAIT.

Response:

I have found that a ball of chicken liver on a medium size treble hook works well in most situations.

BBBbbbbbbut chicken liver flies right off the hook when you’re fly fishing.  Fresh pork skin is the best way for the fly fisherman —  * Center for Computational Biology  * Montana State Bozeman  (406) 994-7061  * http://www.nervana.montana.edu/~sandy */

Response:

Hey…. Martha Stuart of Flyfishing <g <g <g Yuk Yuk Yuk !!! Are you still using the Hot Glue gun to tie your flies (I just came across your article from the Disco era) ?. I (obviously) found it amusing as hell….sorry…<g I also saw your foam nymphs in the Umpqua book…congratulations… — TimW Halfordian Golfer

Response:

We don’t use BAIT.

Gary C. "Lie ? Me ? Never!  No, no, no, the truth is far too much fun !" – Captain Hook

Response:

Why is anyone bothering to answer questions about catfish BAIT? This is FLYFISHING. We don’t use BAIT.

    Some of us not only flyfish, but on occasion I personally enjoy sitting down on the old river bank and do some bait chucking while relaxing on a lawn chair…..     For catties, a ball of Valetta cheese works pretty good.  Nothing however beats the good old nightcrawler though for catching the greatest variety of all fish in local streams, lakes, and rivers…..     I guess I should thank who started this thread, the water is a little unwadeable at my favorite flyfishing stream, maybe I’ll have to get my spinning outfits out today and grab a can of worms and go drown some worms this weekend ) –Randy

Response:

Beginning angler, need advice: What would be best live/artificial Baits to catch Catfish & Bass? What should be the best locations in the streams (no current, fast current, ponds, depths, etc…) where Catfish or Bass are concentrated? Thank you very much indeed.

Response:

Brian, I haven’t done alot of catfishing but I ran across a guy the other day and he said he uses a product called junnies (do a search on the web). he said he bought the stuff off the internet and that a catfish guide told him about it he stated that the guide had the maker come fishing with him and they caught 10 to 1 (maker vs. guide). I do alot of creek fishing and catch alot of bass. I use a lure by rebel called a creek hopper. On a good day I catch and relese about 30 (1/2lb to 1 1/2lds) bass and no telling how many sunfish. you can also check: <A HREF="http:www.tn-outdoors.comtn-outdoors.com</A for other fishing and hunting articles. happy fishing Larry

Response:

I have found that a ball of chicken liver on a medium size treble hook works well in most situations. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Beginning angler, need advice: What would be best live/artificial Baits to catch Catfish & Bass? What should be the best locations in the streams (no current, fast current, ponds, depths, etc…) where Catfish or Bass are concentrated? Thank you very much indeed.

Response:

I have a question:  how do you get the chicken livers to stay on the hook.  I got some fresh chicken livers to use for bait and they were the consistancy of mush.  I would have had a better chance of trying to put grape jelly on the hook.  I have heard you can freeze them but this seems like a messy job.   Any suggestions you can give would be greatly appreciated.  Thanks.   – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I have found that a ball of chicken liver on a medium size treble hook works well in most situations. Beginning angler, need advice: What would be best live/artificial Baits to catch Catfish & Bass? What should be the best locations in the streams (no current, fast current, ponds, depths, etc…) where Catfish or Bass are concentrated? Thank you very much indeed.

Response:

Question:

Petti) writes: ve heard that "The Tippet" is one of Orvis’ "Western Series" rods, and is considerably stiffer than the Ultra Fine.

The "Tippet" is a 7 1/2 foot 3 wt.fullflex rod.  The "Western Tippet" was a medium-fast action 3 wt. that is no longer made.                                                        Dan

Response:

I’m thinking about buying a 2wt or 3wt fly rod for fishing small streams and catching stoked troat when I’m stuck in Phoenix during the winter. I have not cast any rods yet, but I was thinking about trying Orvis’ Ultra Fin and Tippet models.  I would also like to try some of the Sage rods. Does anyone have any opinions on these rods or recommendations about other rods?  Any information would be helpful.  Thanks!                                            John S. Hetrick

My brother has a Sage LL series 2 WT that is a lot of fun on brush choked streams.  It is very easy to be very accurate with it.  Even when you do screw up and slap the line down on the water, it does not scare the brookies.   You can trust my testimonial because I am an Orvis fan.  Saying nice things about Sage does not come easily. — Keep your stick on the ice.

Response:

I like light weight rods.  I find them easier to fish and while you might give up something in distance or have to pick your places and moments in a headwind, using them forces me to pay attention to the closer water. You do have to I’ve got a orvis 8′3" western tippit that I love but dont believe is in production anymore.   In a fit of fuzzy thinking I built a sage LL #2 wt last winter.   The length escapes me but its probably 6′6" or so. Its ok but far too fast to make short casts easily. (I do like the length) I suspect it would fish better with a heaver line.

Response:

short rod bellow 8Ft regadless of action, slow,fast etc… is not so efficent. if you like to cast million time to avoid the drag that’s fine. I like slow action rod because it will handle light tippet very well with big fish, casting don’t require critical timing for forward cast, I have tried scott, winston but I did found them too stiff. I was almost go for Glass fiber rod and I found this Rod makes here in NY called East Branch Rods. 1-800-337-EROD they are great rod and price is great (all under 200) they have finished rod or just blank or kit. They make fullline of trout and others but I think 8ft for 2wt is best. even in windy condition, they will cut righttrough. should give them try,

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I’m thinking about buying a 2wt or 3wt fly rod for fishing small streams and catching stoked troat when I’m stuck in Phoenix during the winter. I have not cast any rods yet, but I was thinking about trying Orvis’ Ultra Fin and Tippet models.  I would also like to try some of the Sage rods. Does anyone have any opinions on these rods or recommendations about other rods?  Any information would be helpful.  Thanks!                                                John S. Hetrick I made a sage III 9′ 3wt (390RPL) at the start of this season and I wouldn’t trade it for anything on calm days.  I’ve landed 16" RainBows without any problems but I did have some fun doing it….  The RPL models are very fast action. Frank I. Mason

On the other hand, if you want a slower action, an 8ft 3wt Winston is a wonderful rod.  I build custom rods and this is one of the most popular rods I build. Lyman  Hughes Ennis, MT Dallas, TX

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I’m thinking about buying a 2wt or 3wt fly rod for fishing small streams and catching stoked troat when I’m stuck in Phoenix during the winter.  I have not cast any rods yet, but I was thinking about trying Orvis’ Ultra Fin and Tippet models.  I would also like to try some of the Sage rods.   Does anyone have any opinions on these rods or recommendations about other rods?  Any information would be helpful.  Thanks!                                                John S. Hetrick Well John; I gotta opinion, doesn’t everyone?? In this case however, it may be actually of some use. Before you go out and plunk that money down on that new rod. Dig through yer closet and find that short 4-5 weight that you bought for small creeks. Take that thing and line it with one of them #2 lines and see how you like it. Esp. if its a DT2 or a TT2. I think you may find, as other have that a #2 line will load a 4/5wt rod at a moderate distance with practice and work pretty darned well. Then when the wind picks up at the end of the day, you can pull out that other reel and line it up with a 4/5 and still cast when the folks with the 2s and 1s have headed back to the truck. The fast action 4/5 won’t work?? Hmmm, if it was a medium it would, anyway, this may be the excuse you’ve been looking for to get a 4/5 weight cane rod. A gentile action 4 or 5 weight 7 and a half ft bamboo rod oughta throw a 2 weight line just fine. Think about it, you can shop around and find an older 7 1/2 ft. 4/5 weight cane rod for something like the price of a new 2 weight graphite or boron, and it will cover more water under more conditions. This may be the one case for having 2 spools. thank me later.

I must whole heartedly agree with Chip. I made my dad a 7ft 3wt split cane rod. In the course of testing it out, I saw practically no difference in casting a 2wt line compared to a 3wt. Both were DT. I also tried it with a 4wt WF and the rod handled that line very well also. So he has a rod that can cast from a 2wt DT to a 4wt WF. I’ll bet that everything except the fastest (stiffest) light line rods would do the same. I might tend to go for the 3/4 wt range though, trying to cast a 2wt line with a 4/5wt rod might be too much of a stretch, but it, of course, would depend on the action of the rod. Small streams and light line is where split cane rods really come into their own. It’s really hard for me to convey to people the action and feel of a split cane rod. There is something about bamboo that really makes the rod feel like a natural extension of your arm. However, when the wind comes up, or you are fishing big water requiring long casts all day long, break out your fast action graphite 6wt. Don’t try to make a rod do something it’s not designed to do. You did ask for opinions didn’t you? Darryl Hayashida

Response:

I’m thinking about buying a 2wt or 3wt fly rod for fishing small streams and catching stoked troat when I’m stuck in Phoenix during the winter. I have not cast any rods yet, but I was thinking about trying Orvis’ Ultra Fin and Tippet models.  I would also like to try some of the Sage rods.   Does anyone have any opinions on these rods or recommendations about other rods?  Any information would be helpful.  Thanks!                                            John S. Hetrick

I made a sage III 9′ 3wt (390RPL) at the start of this season and I wouldn’t trade it for anything on calm days.  I’ve landed 16" RainBows without any problems but I did have some fun doing it….  The RPL models are very fast action. Frank I. Mason

Response:

I’m thinking about buying a 2wt or 3wt fly rod for fishing small streams and catching stoked troat when I’m stuck in Phoenix during the winter.  I have not cast any rods yet, but I was thinking about trying Orvis’ Ultra Fin and Tippet models.  I would also like to try some of the Sage rods.   Does anyone have any opinions on these rods or recommendations about other rods?  Any information would be helpful.  Thanks!                                                 John S. Hetrick

Do check out the Sage LL line.  They have some nice 3 and 4 wt rods in the 5 1/2 – 6 1/2 foot range. Steve –  A sunny day,       a box of midges,          and a wandering stream…    Man, this MUST be heaven!    <    Steve Kulpa    <<

Response:

Try the Orvis Flea, great little 6 1/2′ with a DT3. Glenn

Response:

I’m thinking about buying a 2wt or 3wt fly rod for fishing small streams and catching stoked troat when I’m stuck in Phoenix during the winter.  I have not cast any rods yet, but I was thinking about trying Orvis’ Ultra Fin and Tippet models.  I would also like to try some of the Sage rods.   Does anyone have any opinions on these rods or recommendations about other rods?  Any information would be helpful.  Thanks!                                            John S. Hetrick

Well John; I gotta opinion, doesn’t everyone?? In this case however, it may be actually of some use. Before you go out and plunk that money down on that new rod. Dig through yer closet and find that short 4-5 weight that you bought for small creeks. Take that thing and line it with one of them #2 lines and see how you like it. Esp. if its a DT2 or a TT2. I think you may find, as other have that a #2 line will load a 4/5wt rod at a moderate distance with practice and work pretty darned well. Then when the wind picks up at the end of the day, you can pull out that other reel and line it up with a 4/5 and still cast when the folks with the 2s and 1s have headed back to the truck. The fast action 4/5 won’t work?? Hmmm, if it was a medium it would, anyway, this may be the excuse you’ve been looking for to get a 4/5 weight cane rod. A gentile action 4 or 5 weight 7 and a half ft bamboo rod oughta throw a 2 weight line just fine. Think about it, you can shop around and find an older 7 1/2 ft. 4/5 weight cane rod for something like the price of a new 2 weight graphite or boron, and it will cover more water under more conditions. This may be the one case for having 2 spools. thank me later.

Response:

I’m thinking about buying a 2wt or 3wt fly rod for fishing small streams and catching stoked troat when I’m stuck in Phoenix during the winter.  I have not cast any rods yet, but I was thinking about trying Orvis’ Ultra Fin and Tippet models.  I would also like to try some of the Sage rods.   Does anyone have any opinions on these rods or recommendations about other rods?  Any information would be helpful.  Thanks!                                            John S. Hetrick

I built a rod from an Orvis Ultrafine blank last winter. It has become my ABSOLUTE FAVORITE rod for chasing trout in small streams. The only caveat I have is wind. If the areas you fish in are typically windy, don’t get the 2wt. You will kill yourself trying to cast in the wind. On days when the wind is calm, it throws everything from the tiniest dry flies (of course), to bead head nymphs with incredible accuracy. I use a Wulff Triangle Taper 2/3 line. A 12" trout on that rod is an absolute blast! It comes HIGHLY recommended. I’ve heard that "The Tippet" is one of Orvis’ "Western Series" rods, and is considerably stiffer than the Ultra Fine. If that’s the case, it doesn’t sound like a small stream rod. Can anyone confirm? I’ve also cast a SAGE 389 LL, and it is a very fine rod. The one I cast was made with a "strange" reel seat and grip, and it seemed a bit tip heavy, but I’ve never encountered that on any other SAGE LL. I’m sure it was a factor in the way the rod was put together. The LL is a little more "beefy" than the Orvis, and can throw a WF4F as good as a DT3F. It is a VERY nice rod as well. I think you would be happy with either one of these rods. Bob Petti Endwell, NY

Response:

I’m thinking about buying a 2wt or 3wt fly rod for fishing small streams                                            John S. Hetrick

I use a Sage 379 LL and love it.  It handles dries beautifully, and can also throw a #12 nymph or scud.  

Response:

I’m thinking about buying a 2wt or 3wt fly rod for fishing small streams and catching stoked troat when I’m stuck in Phoenix during the winter.  I have not cast any rods yet, but I was thinking about trying Orvis’ Ultra Fin and Tippet models.  I would also like to try some of the Sage rods.   Does anyone have any opinions on these rods or recommendations about other rods?  Any information would be helpful.  Thanks!                                                 John S. Hetrick

Response:

Question:

[snip] Before I go any further, let me state that I’m cheap, and really don’t want to spend more than $150 for a rod.  That being the case I have narrowed down my choices to two rods by Cortland; a 7′ 3/4 weight, or a 7.5′ 4/5 weight.  Now I already have a reel loaded up with 4 weight line. My question is for my type of fishing which rod would work best? Will the 7′ 3/4weight  rod get overloaded with a 4 weight line on long casts (not that these streams have very many places to make long casts)?  Will the 7.5′ 4/5weight rod be too stiff to load up properly with 4weight line on short casts (most of the casting type I do) and hence lose control and finesse? Any thoughts and/or suggestions?

The two line weight ratings usually refer to a double-taper line (the lower weight) and a weight-forward line (the higher weight). Eg: a 7′ 3/4 should load correctly with either a DT3 or a WF4… If the line you already own is a WF4, you’re probably all set for now –   although when you eventually replace that line, I’d go with a DT3: working a small stream with a 7′ rod (I have a Winston 7′6"/2wt for this) I favor a DT line for at least two reasons: roll casting a DT is a heck of a lot more effective than trying to do the same with a WF line; and a DT line lends itself to finesse than a WF (the latter tends to land with a splash). Regards, /dave <<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<< < Digital Equipment Corp.    Alpha Server Engineering  < <           "Read this and nobody gets hurt"           < <<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I have a question regarding rods that have ratings for 2 fly line weights.  First let me explain my situation.  I mostly fish small streams, where the trout rarely exceed 12" and the brush and trees make for very tight quarters.  I’m considering the purchase of another rod.  My current 8.5′ 7weight is too big for this type of fishing.   Before I go any further, let me state that I’m cheap, and really don’t want to spend more than $150 for a rod.  That being the case I have narrowed down my choices to two rods by Cortland; a 7′ 3/4 weight, or a 7.5′ 4/5 weight.  Now I already have a reel loaded up with 4 weight line. My question is for my type of fishing which rod would work best? Will the 7′ 3/4weight  rod get overloaded with a 4 weight line on long casts (not that these streams have very many places to make long casts)?  Will the 7.5′ 4/5weight rod be too stiff to load up properly with 4weight line on short casts (most of the casting type I do) and hence lose control and finesse?

Okay, This culd be answered in a long missive going into theory of graphite modules, but… A dual rated rod is like any other rod, it’s just being a bit more accurate about what you can do. That is, any rod will handle more than one weight, the weight orinted on it is what the designers had in mind. A 4/5 rod will act a bit stiffer and thus a shade less responsive with a 4 weight line than with the 5 line. On the other hand, a 4/5 with the 4 will shoot line farther and will be a quicker rod to set the hook with. Finesse is sort of in between the two, you will have lots of power and be able to straighten the 4 out, but with a 5 you’ld get better "feel". Hope this helps, ask away if you need more. Bill Curry Tight Lines Tackle shop and Guide Service Lockeport, Nova Scotia, Canada Ph/Fax : 902-656-3329

Response:

I have a question regarding rods that have ratings for 2 fly line weights.  First let me explain my situation.  I mostly fish small streams, where the trout rarely exceed 12" and the brush and trees make for very tight quarters.  I’m considering the purchase of another rod.  My current 8.5′ 7weight is too big for this type of fishing.   Before I go any further, let me state that I’m cheap, and really don’t want to spend more than $150 for a rod.  That being the case I have narrowed down my choices to two rods by Cortland; a 7′ 3/4 weight, or a 7.5′ 4/5 weight.  Now I already have a reel loaded up with 4 weight line. My question is for my type of fishing which rod would work best? Will the 7′ 3/4weight  rod get overloaded with a 4 weight line on long casts (not that these streams have very many places to make long casts)?  Will the 7.5′ 4/5weight rod be too stiff to load up properly with 4weight line on short casts (most of the casting type I do) and hence lose control and finesse? Any thoughts and/or suggestions? Thanks, D.P. Ignorance is bliss.

Response:

I have a question regarding rods that have ratings for 2 fly line weights…… <mostly fish small streams…. I have narrowed down my choices to two rods by Cortland; a 7′ 3/4 weight, or a 7.5′ 4/5 weight….. Now I already have a reel loaded up with 4 weight line….. My question is for my type of fishing which rod would work best? Any thoughts and/or suggestions? Thanks, D.P.

Hey, D.P. The long and the short of it is test cast them.  I have not cast either rod you mention and without knowing the action of the rod it is not possible to answer your question (not that I will let that stop me), so your best bet is to stick a leader on your 4WT line with a piece of yarn attached and try them out. I suspect you will find that the 3/4 is the better choice. In general for short cast situations going one line size up gives you better loading of the rod, and thus higher lines speed. Course the argument can be made that at short distances you do not get much of loading of the rod anyways and you are actually casting the line alone and therefore could use a broomstick for all the difference it would make,  I tend to figure people with that kind of attitude are Insensitive wretches who have no appreciation of the finer things in life. P.S.  If you have not tried out the ST CROIX rods give them a check too. I don’t know about their shorter rods but the 9 FT. 5 WT is the best casting rod for it’s price on the market (IMHO).   Steven B.

Response: