Question:

For starters, I have to brag that my youngest ties a darned good GRW. Everytime I sit down to tie, she wants to tie with me, and when I have the time & patience, I teach her a few things at the vise.   Sitting on the porch at Moosehead, she got to the point that she could tie a #16 bead head GRW all by herself & have it look as good as mine (faint praise, indeed <g).   I was taking the entire family fishing at the East Outlet that afternoon, and I kept hers segregated because she wanted to catch a fish on one of her own flies.   She’s going to be a helluva fisherman one day. I knew full well that taking three novices fly fishing on a big river was going to be a lot of work, and I began rigging the rods back at the cabin. Between the rods I’ve built for them and my own stuff, I had enough to put together a 4wt. & two 5wt. outfits; and I knew I wouldn’t need a fourth for myself.   By the third outfit, I was getting too mechanical, & tied the fly on the tippet before I tied the tippet on the leader.   Shit.  So I gently held the fly in my lips while I felt for the end of the leader.   Murphy’s Law struck, of course.  I don’t remember exactly the sequence of events; but the tippet tightened, and before I felt the pain, I had a #16 GRW firmly embedded in my bottom lip.   Well, that was stupid.   Fortunately, it was small enough that blood & pain were minimal on its extraction. Reaching the river, I set my three sports out on decent looking runs north of the highway, explained the concept of the strike indicator, then spent the next half hour running among them, helping them cast, untying tangles, unhooking snags, tying on new flies, etc.   SWMBO and the youngest were using her self-tied flies, hoping for success.   It was SWMBO who struck first, hooking a nice little landlock, which she reeled in & lifted with her rod, before it released itself.   A cool moment for both SWMBO & my little fly tyer. #1 son never got the timing down, & after his second god-awful tangle, lost interest after an hour.   The day was fading, & there were starting to be a few caddis along the shoreline.   A couple days before, I’d tried my hand at tying a Goddard Caddis, so I took one out of my box & tied it on.   What the hell.   A short drift along a nearby seam, & I had a fish on.  Cool for me. I’ve tied a few flies & caught more than a few fish on my own flies, but this was amazingly the first fish I’d caught on a dry fly I’d tied.   SWMBO wanted a Kodak moment; but out of habit, I grabbed the fly before I grabbed the fish, & it was gone that quickly. Climbed out of the river, & got back to the cabin, where youngest wanted to tie some more flies. Joe F. p.s. Dave, both kids thought you were pretty cool. <g

Response:

Joe F.: <great report snipped p.s. Dave, both kids thought you were pretty cool. <g

<G  Thanks.  We talked aboug Peach all the way home that night.  You are a lucky man, Joe.  Wonderful family. Dave

Response:

For starters, . . .

<snip Nice report, Joe. Cheers to SWMBO! It’s too bad about #1 son — I know the feeling. My youngest (nineteen yrs) got frustrated and bored early in the season and now I’m having one hell of a time bringing him back. I think maybe a canoe or boat trip might be in order. . . — TL, Tim

Response:

Climbed out of the river, & got back to the cabin, where youngest wanted to tie some more flies. Joe F. p.s. Dave, both kids thought you were pretty cool. <g

ya but what do kids know, eh?  <G very nice TR, BTW.  catching a fish on your own fly is always a special thrill – watching mom catch one with it would be just as good. Peter Visit The Streamer Page at http://home.cogeco.ca/~pcharles/streamers/index.html

Response:

Question:

I’m looking to improve my midge presentations this year. There is a local lake that I fish often where midges appear to be a major food source and I keep getting skunked. I know, use, and tie only a couple of midge patterns: 1. Griffith’s Gnat for dry 2. Brassie for the pupa. Anyone have any killer patterns for midges? I’m especially interested in larva, pupa, and emerger type patterns. There don’t seem to be as many out there as for mayfly nymphs etc. As for presentation, I recently checked out Mike Croft’s stillwater book and found that midge larva and pupa imitations need to be presented in a near vertical presentation with very slow retrieve. I think this is part of my problem also. Any tips/techniques anyone has here would be appreciated as well!

Response:

This URL should help you out http://www.fishbc.com/adventure/angling/protalk/chan/confession.phtml TL MC — "In order to achieve what is possible, one must constantly attempt the impossible" http://www.mikeconnor.de

Response:

Wow. The article talks about using a 6 or 7 meter leader.  That seems like it would be impossible to cast? Keith – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – This URL should help you out http://www.fishbc.com/adventure/angling/protalk/chan/confession.phtml

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I’m looking to improve my midge presentations this year. There is a local lake that I fish often where midges appear to be a major food source and I keep getting skunked. I know, use, and tie only a couple of midge patterns: 1. Griffith’s Gnat for dry 2. Brassie for the pupa. Anyone have any killer patterns for midges? I’m especially interested in larva, pupa, and emerger type patterns. There don’t seem to be as many out there as for mayfly nymphs etc. As for presentation, I recently checked out Mike Croft’s stillwater book and found that midge larva and pupa imitations need to be presented in a near vertical presentation with very slow retrieve. I think this is part of my problem also. Any tips/techniques anyone has here would be appreciated as well!

Hi Xochi, Someone else pointed you to Brian Chan’s page.  Its a very good start. There are a lot of midge patterns around, most all fly tying books show a few.  The Griffith’s Gnat is a good dry pattern, its just that lake fish aren’t on drys very often.  They are on the emergers, pupa, and larva much more often.  I like the suspended midge pupa patterns for the emergers, and the swannundase midge for the pupa.  Both are in Kaufmans book "Tying Nymphs".  You will need a variety of colors and sizes,  assume you will need black, olive, gray, and red pupa patterns.  Sizes cover a huge spectrum.  My box includes size 12 at the large end and goes to 18 at the small end. Smaller may be needed on occasion, but not so often I stock for it.   What you really need to do is spend some time watching the midges hatch in your lake.  Stock your box with the colors and sizes present at your lake.  I didn’t mention larva patterns because I don’t use any special patterns for the larva.  The pupa pattern is generally close enough. Most of my midging is done within 4 feet of the surface.  This might be peculiar to the lakes I fish.  I don’t go out of my way to use a long leader, and tippet size doesn’t need to go to the rediculous either.  A standard 9 foot leader ending in 4x is OK most of the time.  Lake fish run pretty big and while smaller tippets can be used to land them,  doing so usually exhausts the fish in the process.  Stay with the heavier tippets whenever you can. Slow is key, in fact if you can keep the line tight, no retrieve is best.  I use a strike indicator a lot so a tight line is not as critical.  Wave action provides more than enough action to the fly.  To catch a few on midges now and again is a simple matter.  To get really good at it is a whole nother story! Good luck John S.

Response:

I’m looking to improve my midge presentations this year. There is a local lake that I fish often where midges appear to be a major food source and I keep getting skunked. I know, use, and tie only a couple of midge patterns: 1. Griffith’s Gnat for dry 2. Brassie for the pupa.

snipped to save room. going to get spammed for spamming.  I have the answer, but I don’t know how to help you and others in a public forum such as ROFF. The price one pays for being an icon!  Sucks! — Mr.G Wildlife: An American Ideal & Her Values Thesis http://www.gink.com/environment/index.html

Response:

Xochi, What about my favourite midge-emerger: Hook: TMC 2487 #’s 18-22. Tail: two strrands of twinkle flash, cut off short. Body: grey tyingthread – make a very, very thin body, tied well into the bend. Tie in a CDC-feather at the point. Wrap a small thorax with some peacock-herl Fold the CDC-feather losely over the thorax, thus forming a small buld on top. It’s OK to let some fibers point out. The idea is to get a small body with a rather messy thorax. Cut of. Just let this fly float in the surface, using a long leader-point, without too much casting. Hans van der Stroom – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I’m looking to improve my midge presentations this year. There is a local lake that I fish often where midges appear to be a major food source and I keep getting skunked. I know, use, and tie only a couple of midge patterns: 1. Griffith’s Gnat for dry 2. Brassie for the pupa. Anyone have any killer patterns for midges? I’m especially interested in larva, pupa, and emerger type patterns. There don’t seem to be as many out there as for mayfly nymphs etc. As for presentation, I recently checked out Mike Croft’s stillwater book and found that midge larva and pupa imitations need to be presented in a near vertical presentation with very slow retrieve. I think this is part of my problem also. Any tips/techniques anyone has here would be appreciated as well!

Response:

Greetings, Small Fly by Darrel Martin, try a search on http://www.addall.com/ for a source and the best price available. Graham

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I’m looking to improve my midge presentations this year. There is a local lake that I fish often where midges appear to be a major food source and I keep getting skunked. I know, use, and tie only a couple of midge patterns: 1. Griffith’s Gnat for dry 2. Brassie for the pupa. Anyone have any killer patterns for midges? I’m especially interested in larva, pupa, and emerger type patterns. There don’t seem to be as many out there as for mayfly nymphs etc. As for presentation, I recently checked out Mike Croft’s stillwater book and found that midge larva and pupa imitations need to be presented in a near vertical presentation with very slow retrieve. I think this is part of my problem also. Any tips/techniques anyone has here would be appreciated as well!

Response:

The price one pays for being an icon!  Sucks!

http://images.amazon.com/images/P/0679887482.01.LZZZZZZZ.gif — Charlie…

Response:

Not so, we use 20-22 ft leaders, in lakes, all the time.  A lot of people who use a bobber over their chironomids, cast these leaders very well….even with the cork. Fred – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Wow. The article talks about using a 6 or 7 meter leader.  That seems like it would be impossible to cast? Keith This URL should help you out http://www.fishbc.com/adventure/angling/protalk/chan/confession.phtml

Response:

TRY A FLY CALLED HALO MIDGE EMERGER.YOU WILL FIND THE PATTERN IN A BOOK WRITTEN BY GARY LAFONTAINE:TROUT FLIES PROVEN PATTERNS.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I’m looking to improve my midge presentations this year. There is a local lake that I fish often where midges appear to be a major food source and I keep getting skunked. I know, use, and tie only a couple of midge patterns: 1. Griffith’s Gnat for dry 2. Brassie for the pupa. Anyone have any killer patterns for midges? I’m especially interested in larva, pupa, and emerger type patterns. There don’t seem to be as many out there as for mayfly nymphs etc. As for presentation, I recently checked out Mike Croft’s stillwater book and found that midge larva and pupa imitations need to be presented in a near vertical presentation with very slow retrieve. I think this is part of my problem also. Any tips/techniques anyone has here would be appreciated as well!

Response:

Hi Xochi (how does one pronounce that anyway I read your post several times … these are the things that came to mind. The Grifiths Gnat and Brassie don’t really cover the few inches of water column beneath the surface unless you clip hackles or use greased leaders.   Last year Mike Connor suggested I try a snipe and purple on midging fish in lakes … I didn’t have snipe at the time and used magpie instead … both have worked for me.  But … I pick a fish and put the fly well infront and will strip the fly into the fishes path if necessary then leave it inert – I generally don’t have to fish the water.  Of course that was last year – this year may be completely different What species of fish?  Rainbows give me the most trouble with their speed, even seemingly slow rise forms are from fish moving at quite a clip. Do something radical … trick I use is to use a small attractor (size 16 or 14 at most) and fish this by casting to a rise and stripping slowly … Alexandras are good for this on the lakes I fish.  This isn’t a bad option when searching the water either.  I will also use bait fish imitations … it really depends a lot on the water. What fly do I start with? … 99% of the time the wrong one. Of course if your fish are totally switched on to a 3.75 mm pupae with a bluey-silver sheen  you may need a whole lot of luck as well… Its taken nine off-seasons to come up with couple of tactics and flies that work consistently on midge feeders during the middle of the day. steve — "Experience must be the teacher in this game – not only your own  but the other man’s" – Dick Wigram http://www.csse.monash.edu.au/~steve/fush/

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I’m looking to improve my midge presentations this year. There is a local lake that I fish often where midges appear to be a major food source and I keep getting skunked. I know, use, and tie only a couple of midge patterns: 1. Griffith’s Gnat for dry 2. Brassie for the pupa. Anyone have any killer patterns for midges? I’m especially interested in larva, pupa, and emerger type patterns. There don’t seem to be as many out there as for mayfly nymphs etc. As for presentation, I recently checked out Mike Croft’s stillwater book and found that midge larva and pupa imitations need to be presented in a near vertical presentation with very slow retrieve. I think this is part of my problem also. Any tips/techniques anyone has here would be appreciated as well!

I don’t know if you’ve ever heard of "Whitlock’s Four-Phase Polymidge", but It is a simple and supposedly highly effective pattern.  I have never used it, but the design seems very good, and all the stories I’ve heard? Convincing!    Meroli

Response:

Steve Wrote <snip Of course if your fish are totally switched on to a 3.75 mm pupae with a bluey-silver sheen  you may need a whole lot of luck as well… Its taken nine off-seasons to come up with couple of tactics and flies that work consistently on midge feeders during the middle of the day.

Have any of you heard of the Silver Savior (as featured in Field and Stream)? It can barely be called a fly, It is supposed to work when trout seem to be "feeding on microscopic bubbles!" (pronounced with a tone of frustration). Unfortunately, I forgot how it is tied!  I can say that it is tied on a #22-#32 size hook, with almost no materials.  The author of the article said that he invented it to imitate a tiny air bubble.       Meroli

Response:

AJ Bests patterns in FR&R about a year ago are interesting,  using  the edge from a zip lock baggie!  Will try them out in one week at Lees Ferry.  Report to follow.   Al Schuh-fly

Response:

The best website for the San Juan,     www.ifly4trout.com    , has lots of midge patterns

Response:

Question:

I should have printed the message, but didn’t.  Someone submitted an exercise where you use the tip of your fly rod and practice casting indoors.  Could that person re-send that message?  I’m new to fly fishing and would like to practice indoors.

This practice method seems to have been proposed first by Lee Wulff about 40 years ago, mainly to teach timing.  Instead of a fly line you use a thickish rope of lightweight wool, such as is used to tie curtains or ornamental parcels, about 10 to 12 feet long.  It works. — |  Donald Phillipson, 4180 Boundary Road, Carlsbad Springs,  | |        Ontario, Canada, K0A 1K0, tel. 613 822 0734         |

Response:

I should have printed the message, but didn’t.  Someone submitted an exercise where you use the tip of your fly rod and practice casting indoors.  Could that person re-send that message?  I’m new to fly fishing and would like to practice indoors. Thanks and Good Fishing Gary

Response:

Gary, what you do is run thick yarn through the guides of the end of your rod as if it was the actual fly line. Its a good way to begin to understand the principles of casting, for example casting a wide loop as opposed to a narrow loop, that sort of thing. Hope this helps. Kevin – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I should have printed the message, but didn’t.  Someone submitted an exercise where you use the tip of your fly rod and practice casting indoors.  Could that person re-send that message?  I’m new to fly fishing and would like to practice indoors. Thanks and Good Fishing Gary

Response:

Question:

I doubt if you’d be safe from commercial sex site solicitations even at rec.fly-fishing.

   - uh…you said `Fly’ –

Response:

I doubt if you’d be safe from commercial sex site solicitations even at rec.fly-fishing.

Hey, I’d not object to a jpg of christine in some hip waders… TimW

Response:

Question:

Hello, I have read various suggestions about using Albolene, a cosmetic product, and Scotchguard to waterproof dry flies.  My question is has anyone tried to use Albolene to condition and waterproof a floating fly line?  Furthermore I am curious if anyone has used Scotchguard to further waterproof a floating fly line.  After several hours on a stream or river, and alternating between nymphs and dries, I find that my floating line becomes a sinking tip, hence I have to work to fish the evening hatches. I use an Ultra 3 #6 floating line.  Does anyone have any experience with these two ideas?  Thanks, G.

Response:

My question is has anyone tried to use Albolene to condition and waterproof a floating fly line?  Furthermore I am curious if anyone has used Scotchguard to further waterproof a floating fly line.  

Neither is likely to work.  To get any chemical supposed beneficial (because of low density or waterproof-ness) into the coating of a fly line, you would need to use a solvent.  If you found a solvent you could use (e.g. that operated on fly line plastic at room temperatures) it might indeed transport beneficial chemicals into the plastic — but you could not then remove the solvent, so there would be a high risk it would either turn the line sticky (non-shooting) or continue to dissolve, i.e. releasing other plastic chemicals into water. In manufacturing, liquid components of plastic fly line coating are not merely dripped onto the core.  They are also "cooked" at controlled temperatures and pressures, so as to make the plastic, or at least its outer skin, as inert as possible.  The home tinkerer can easily alter this outer skin with solvents — but is not likely also to be able to render the outer skin inert and suitable for fishing for weeks or months. — |  Donald Phillipson, 4180 Boundary Road, Carlsbad Springs,  | |        Ontario, Canada, K0A 1K0, tel. 613 822 0734         |

Response:

writes: – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -Hello, I have read various suggestions about using Albolene, a cosmetic product, and Scotchguard to waterproof dry flies.  My question is has anyone tried to use Albolene to condition and waterproof a floating fly line?  Furthermore I am curious if anyone has used Scotchguard to further waterproof a floating fly line.  After several hours on a stream or river, and alternating between nymphs and dries, I find that my floating line becomes a sinking tip, hence I have to work to fish the evening hatches. I use an Ultra 3 #6 floating line.  Does anyone have any experience with these two ideas?  Thanks, G.

First off, a dry fly and a fly line are two diferent things! Do not wse the mentioned dressing materials on a fly line you want to use anymore, unless you have checked them out on a piece you have cut off the line. second, if you properly sealed the end of your fly line it will remain a floating line. If you did’nt seal it, cut off the end and seal the cut end with flexament(or a simalar product) then put on a loop attachment and you will find that your line will not soak up water by way of the cut end. Bryant

Response:

Question:

Has anyone had any experience with the Loomis GL-3 series of rods?  I’m interested in their 9 foot, 9 or 10 wt.  I really can’t afford a GL-X or a Sage RPL-X, so I am considering the GL-3.  I plan to use the rod for salt-water surf fishing for stripers on Cape Cod and Plum Island.  I would like to use the Teeny TS-350 line for getting down deep and the Wulf SWT 10wt intermediate lines. I just want to make sure that the GL-3 can handle these lines without getting overloaded or even worse breaking the tip. Any thoughts? Thanks, don

Response:

I bought a GL-3 9 foot 4 weight and am very happy with it. I cast it and a Sage discovery and the GL-3 put out far more line thatn the SAGE noodle. Be sure to practice some casts with the GL-3 in that heavier weight, but the 4 weight is a pleasure to fish with. Trey Monroe

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Has anyone had any experience with the Loomis GL-3 series of rods?  I’m interested in their 9 foot, 9 or 10 wt.  I really can’t afford a GL-X or a Sage RPL-X, so I am considering the GL-3.  I plan to use the rod for salt-water surf fishing for stripers on Cape Cod and Plum Island.  I would like to use the Teeny TS-350 line for getting down deep and the Wulf SWT 10wt intermediate lines. I just want to make sure that the GL-3 can handle these lines without getting overloaded or even worse breaking the tip. Any thoughts? Thanks, don Hi Don:

My son’s 3rd rod was a 8 1/2 foot GL3 for a 5 wt line.  That was a very good rod for the price.  In fact I borrowed it when I could.  More of a softer action rod and it loads far easier than the sage rods. I’m not in love with the ultra stiff rods so I do favor rods like the GL3.  Best advice–go into a fly shop and test cast it.  Or maybe some club or guide might have one you can borrow for a few hours.  I have given up buying gear straight out of catalogs or magazine ads. Best luck fishing!!!!

Response:

Has anyone had any experience with the Loomis GL-3 series of rods?  I’m interested in their 9 foot, 9 or 10 wt.  I really can’t afford a GL-X or a Sage RPL-X, so I am considering the GL-3.  I plan to use the rod for salt-water surf fishing for stripers on Cape Cod and Plum Island.  I would like to use the Teeny TS-350 line for getting down deep and the Wulf SWT 10wt intermediate lines. I just want to make sure that the GL-3 can handle these lines without getting overloaded or even worse breaking the tip. Any thoughts? Thanks, don

I haven’t used a Loomis fly rod, but have extensively used Loomis casting rods in grades IM-6, IMX and GL-3.  I can say that the GL-3 rods are very strong and light.  They are, in my opinion, not very far behind the IMXs, if that.  I wouldn’t hesitate to try out the GL-3. — Hugh Scott                    Albuquerque, NM

Response:

Has anyone had any experience with the Loomis GL-3 series of rods?  I’m interested in their 9 foot, 9 or 10 wt.  I really can’t afford a GL-X or a Sage RPL-X, so I am considering the GL-3.  I plan to use the rod for salt-water surf fishing for stripers on Cape Cod and Plum Island.  I would like to use the Teeny TS-350 line for getting down deep and the Wulf SWT 10wt intermediate lines. I just want to make sure that the GL-3 can handle these lines without getting overloaded or even worse breaking the tip. Any thoughts? Thanks, don

The G.Loomis GL3 series competes with the Sage DS series. These rods are in the $200+ range and are great values. They come in 9′ #9 line and 9′ #10 line in both companies. I would try to cast them both. We sell more Sage because they are a little lower in price and have an unconditional lifetime warranty. G.Loomis is not offering the unconditional warranty yet. If you liked the action of the Loomis better it should not make much difference. William Kiene Kiene’s Fly Shop Sacramento,CA,USA

Response:

The G.Loomis GL3 series competes with the Sage DS series. These rods are in the $200+ range and are great values. They come in 9′ #9 line and 9′ #10 line in both companies. I would try to cast them both. We sell more Sage because they are a little lower in price and have an unconditional lifetime warranty. G.Loomis is not offering the unconditional warranty yet. If you liked the action of the Loomis better it should not make much difference.

The Loomis competes with the Sage DS in price only. IMHO, the GL#, at least in trout sizes, is a far better rod than anything else in the price range.  I have cast the 9 weight, and it is a little slow for my liking, but still better than Reddington and others in the price range.  Just my $0.02.

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Has anyone had any experience with the Loomis GL-3 series of rods?  I’m interested in their 9 foot, 9 or 10 wt.  I really can’t afford a GL-X or a Sage RPL-X, so I am considering the GL-3.  I plan to use the rod for salt-water surf fishing for stripers on Cape Cod and Plum Island.  I would like to use the Teeny TS-350 line for getting down deep and the Wulf SWT 10wt intermediate lines. I just want to make sure that the GL-3 can handle these lines without getting overloaded or even worse breaking the tip. Any thoughts? Thanks, don

I’ve been using the 9′9wt GL-3 for two seasons now and reach for it first more often than the Sage and Orvis rods I own. The GL-3 is lighter than anything you will try out and will load more quickly than most other comparable rods. I use mine for striped bass and bluefish angling in saltponds, backbays and estuaries. I prefer the Stiffer rods for open surf fishing, though, due to their greater ability to cope with headwinds often encountered in that environment. I’ve had two GL-3 rods break on me so far and G.Loomis replaced the rods no questions asked (they even accomodated a rush replacement to help me keep my place on a charter I’d scheduled not long after the rod had broken). I believe they DO honor an unconditional warranty on the GL-3, but you should ask your flyshop or call G.Loomis to confirm for yourself. The first one that broke suffered a fractured male ferrule as I attempted a power cast into a 15mph headwind (my fault) and the second was a snap of the upper section 18" from the tiptop guide as I landed a 20" striper (their fault). In all fareness, the blank could have had cracks from being hit with a 2/0 clouser during a poorly executed cast, but they didn’t give me the third degree; they just replaced the rod. I still think you should try out the rods and also take a look at the St.Croix rods. They also give you alot for the money and have a warrantee, but they tend to be heavier than the Loomis or Sage rods. Again, try for yourself. Dont forget to try the Kennedy Fisher!!! Good Luck,    Jose

Response:

Question:

writes: – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -Fly rodding in Hawaii is still relegated to a few weirdos and tourists. There  is a small planted population of trout on Kauai and a short fly fishing season for them in very remote stretches of the Waimea river. I have fly fished from the beaches and in some "flats areas" with out great success, but that was probably due to me , not the potential as there are some really good predators out there that people regularly get on spinning artificals, Ulua and Papio are jacks (papio is the younger 1-3 pound, they grow up to 20 pound Uluas), there are pacific barracudas and other reef fish that are probably fun to catch.  The big game activity off the Kona Coast is starting to attract fly fishers for the bill fish there, and the guides don’t all look at you like you have 3 heads if you mention fly fishing.  Good luck–Crashjibe

Thanks for the response, Crashjibe.  Do you have any info on where to try?  I’ll be on Maui and the Big Island of Hawaii.  Are there any beaches, flats, or accessible reefs that you know of? Thanks again.                 Bill

Response:

Fly rodding in Hawaii is still relegated to a few weirdos and tourists. There  is a small planted population of trout on Kauai and a short fly fishing season for them in very remote stretches of the Waimea river.  I have fly fished from the beaches and in some "flats areas" with out great success, but that was probably due to me , not the potential as there are some really good predators out there that people regularly get on spinning artificals, Ulua and Papio are jacks (papio is the younger 1-3 pound, they grow up to 20 pound Uluas), there are pacific barracudas and other reef fish that are probably fun to catch.  The big game activity off the Kona Coast is starting to attract fly fishers for the bill fish there, and the guides don’t all look at you like you have 3 heads if you mention fly fishing.  Good luck–Crashjibe

Response:

Hi everyone: I’m going to a meeting in Hawaii in mid-October, and am wondering whether I should bring a flyrod, and if so, what weight.  The meeting is on Maui at the Ritz-Carlton Kapalua (in case that helps with location), and I’ll also be on the Big Island of Hawaii for a few days. Are there any reasonable flyfishing opportunities along the beaches? Any significant freshwater fishing that could be done without a boat? Any fly guides out there? (I really had no intention of bringing a rod but my wife insists that I post this message–she wouldn’t want to miss a special opportunity! How about that for a wife?  Last weekend she just kept insisting that I take her out on the boat for bass even though we had limited time and the weather was threatening.) Thanks for your help.                 Bill P.S.  I’ve not been following the newsgroups very religiously lately, so I’d appreciate an email response if possible.  Thanks again.

Response:

Question:

I would appreciate any information on fishing for steelhead or salmon around Vancouver in late October, particularly on wadeable river spots. Thanks in advance, RK —   /      RedKnight               | Chris McCarley   /      "I have seen the future |            and it is neural."      |

Try calling Ruddicks Fly Shop in Burnaby (Suburb of Van)

Response:

I would appreciate any information on fishing for steelhead or salmon around Vancouver in late October, particularly on wadeable river spots. Thanks in advance, RK —   /      RedKnight               | Chris McCarley   /      "I have seen the future |            and it is neural."      |

Response:

Question:

I,ll be in Missoula May 5-12.  Whenever I get to Montana I like to make the best of it! I have never fished there in early May.  What can I expect?

Response:

Early may can be an excellent ime for our rivers. As long as the runoff hasn’t started, which is usually late may, there will be dry fly activity as well as streamer and nymph fishing. One of my favorite hatches at that time is the Skwala hatch, an olive stonefly.Also there will be Ameletus, a large black mayfly. If you like streamer fishing, there will be plenty of opportunities to fish large nymphs and streamers to imitate the salmonfly which would be hatching within two to four weeks of when you plan to be there. I’m a local guide and would be glad to offer any advice. Tight Lines! Brian D. Nelson

Response:

Question:

Ten Tips for Beginning Fly Fishers* x xBy Clay Riness x x1.  Don’t take yourself too seriously…it’s supposed to be fun. You don’t have to have the mind of Einstein and the hand-eye coordination of Stefan Edberg to enjoy fly fishing–as much of the contemporary literature seems to suggest. True, catching wary trout can be difficult. But learning to have fun with a flyrod is not difficult at all. x x2.  Seek a mentor. All kinds of fly fishing instruction is available: books, videos, schools, clinics, ad infinitum. Each has its place, but nothing compares to what you learn standing at the side of a veteran angler. The friendship you develop is very special, too. x x3.  Quit thinking of fly fishing solely in terms of trout. All fish are fun on a flyrod! Bass,bluegills, crappies, northern pike, even carp- go forth and figure out how to hook them. x x4. Choose your tackle wisely. Forget about buying an "entry level" rod, reel and line. You’ll blame yourself for its lack of performance, and it won’t have any resale value. Check around; try different rods; ask your mentor’s advice. x x5. Join fishing-related organizations and clubs.  You’ll meet people who share your interests, and who are willing to share their expertise as well. Plus, you’ll be contributing to the protection of the resource. x x6. Learn to cast on grass, not water. use your yard, or a local park (or even a gymnasium, if one’s available). This way, you can concentrate strictly on developing and improving your casting, without having to worry about anything else. The flyrod can be a tool of great precision; you’ll catch a zillion more fish in the long run by knowing how to use that tool before you face your quarry. Besides, if you can’t get your fly to the fish, you can’t fish. x x7. Take up a little basic  fly tying. Losing flies is much easier when it’s a ratty old thing you tied for eight cents, instead of a two dollar bit of fluff with an intimidating name. Catching fish on your home-tied creation is a lot more fun, too. And if you keep at it, you’ll eventually be able to tie fancy bits of fluff with intimidating names. x x8. Get free catalogues. You can learn all incredible amount about fly fishing by studying the wishbooks that cater to it. You’ll also get an idea of what’s out there in the way of tackle. x x9. Keep a notebook of your experiences. Keeping a journal affords you the luxury of reliving your adventures in your own words. You will also be able to process this information over the seasons, and learn from it. x x10.  Go Fishing! x xClay Riness is the proprietor of Rocking Trout Spring Creek Fishing Service in Coon Valley, Wisconsin. x x x*Story from the FFF Story File x x

Response:

Ten Tips for Beginning Fly Fishers* x x6. Learn to cast on grass, not water. use your yard, or a local park (or even a gymnasium, if one’s available). This way, you can concentrate strictly on developing and improving your casting, without having to worry about anything else.

I agree to a point.  Picking up your line before the back cast is an important aspect and the feel of the line coming off the water is different than coming off of grass.   x x7. Take up a little basic  fly tying. Losing flies is much easier when it’s a ratty old thing you tied for eight cents, instead of a two dollar bit of fluff with an intimidating name. Catching fish on your home-tied creation is a lot more fun, too. And if you keep at it, you’ll eventually be able to tie fancy bits of fluff with intimidating names.

More importantly, I think fly tying makes you much more aware of the insects that you are trying to immitate and the various stages.  You’re not just fishing with a fancy bit of fluff with an intimidating name but a representation of a real insect. — John Fereira Pleasanton, CA

Response: