Question:

I will be on a business trip next week in the Northern Florida area between Jacksonville & Tallahassee and into some parts of Southern Georgia.  If all goes right I will have a day or two of free time on the company and would like to find some areas to go fishing. Can any of you out there direct me to someplace where I might have reasonable chances of catching fish?  What about some Fly or Tackle Shops that I should go to for supplies or advice? Thanks in advance Rob L

Response:

I will be on a business trip next week in the Northern Florida area between Jacksonville & Tallahassee and into some parts of Southern Georgia.  If all goes right I will have a day or two of free time on the company and would like to find some areas to go fishing. Can any of you out there direct me to someplace where I might have reasonable chances of catching fish?  What about some Fly or Tackle Shops that I should go to for supplies or advice? Thanks in advance Rob L

If you’re interested in large Florida bass, try Lake Jackson, just north of Tallahassee and south of Thomasville.  If you are interested in going down to the coast, try Apalachicola or Cedar Key. HTH, R

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Question:

,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,  ;-)  ,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, Yup. He clean missed that one. A classic "whiff" job…

Harry Mason www.Troutflies.com

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,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,  ;-)  ,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,

Yup. He clean missed that one. A classic "whiff" job…

Response:

Dave LaCourse wrote Fiddle Away writes: Well than.  Maybe their’s less diffrince then you think! LOL.  Very good (well?).  You could make two sentences out of it too. "Maybe there’s less diffrince (sic).  *Then* you think.  Naw…..I like your’s betterer.

They’res (sic) a good boy now.  If ur a gwine ta quote me, git the spellin raht! —                                                       -dnc-

Response:

[stuff about SPAM snipped]

Speaking of SPAM, have you all tried: http://pemtropics.mit.edu/~jcho/spam/ (try it.  you’ll like it!) —                                                       -dnc-

Response:

Fiddle Away writes: Well than.  Maybe their’s less diffrince then you think!

LOL.  Very good (well?).  You could make two sentences out of it too.  "Maybe there’s less diffrince (sic).  *Then* you think.  Naw…..I like your’s betterer. Dave L.

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Fiddle Away writes: Well than.  Maybe their’s less diffrince then you think! LOL.  Very good (well?).  You could make two sentences out of it too.  "Maybe there’s less diffrince (sic).  *Then* you think.  Naw…..I like your’s betterer. Dave L.

dry. . . Mr. G  Always confused about them . . . ? — http://www.gink.com/ Latest Updates

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– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Party time. How nice. You’ve invited SPAM Luncheon Meat to your party. What’s that? It’s a SPAM Party. Well then, you’ll want a SPAM Party Pack. It’s got everything you need to give your party a distinctive SPAM flavor. Everything, that is, except SPAM, which of course can easily be found at your local fishing newsgroup. The SPAM Party Pack serves 12. Cost: $39, plus a shipping and handling charge of $7. Pack includes:                                             SPAM invitations.                                             SPAM paper tablecloth.                                             SPAM paper napkins.                                             SPAM plastic ware.                                             SPAM paper plates.                                             SPAM balloons.                                             SPAM plastic serving tray.                                             SPAM plastic stadium cups.                                             SPAM pennant.                                             SPAM recipe book.                                             And, just for you, a SPAM apron. SPAM Party Packs.                                        No. of SPAM Party                                        Amount enclosed: ($39 ea + $7.00 shipping/handling)                                        Email                                        Payment type: (check one)                                        _____ Check                                        _____ Credit Card (Visa, Mastercard, Discover)                                        Credit Card Type:_____(Visa) _____(MC)                                        _____(Disc.)                                        Credit Card                                        Credit Card                                        Expiration                                        Mail this form with payment to:                                        SPAM Party Pack                                        Gift Center                                        1 Hormel Place                                        Austin, MN 55912 — Levi Life is anything that dies when you stomp on it.                                                         — Dave Barry

You forgot the SPAM TUBE and SPAM SOCK for an additional $100. Oh, that’s right you don’t HAVE to order them They come automaticaly whether you aked for them or not. Bob ( working on a catchy tag line ) Before you buy.

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actually dedicate their entire lives to fly fishing.  They have Web Sites which can contain vast reservoirs of information.  The simpler the address the more valuable the site can be to either the owner or to those seeking free information.   User friendly is a must in cyber fishing for there is the lure of water in all of mankind.  The lure of owning a proper .com web site can and should reflect that sense of wanting to go a certain direction, to join in on the fun, or to simply gravitate to that which makes one feel at home. Conclave Web Sites can be quickly constructed for a News Group for instance just like FAQ sheets can be readily made available. Yellowstoneflyfishing.com could very well create a magnetic draw worth much in more ways then just money.  The hardest part of being on the internet is supporting and maintaining the computer.  But these sites take time and "TIME" is what we all have little of.  For instance, in our case we are spending hundreds of hours on an ongoing basis, just trying to keep our .com sites up to date and new.  People consume reading matter faster then they use toilet paper.  The appetite for information is nearly like owning a black hole.  No matter how original, no matter how fresh your material is, it is old news within a week.   The skills of most fly fishermen will become more deadly then ever before because of this FLY FISHING Information Waterway!  Where can I go here, or there, because I’m going to be in the area on 28 Jul 00, is answered immediately.  The secret places are becoming less sacred as more and more new rods attack.  Not unlike W.W.II, "Loose Lips Sink Ships," today equates to "Loose Lips, Kills Fish". A news groups such as ROFF and ROFFT are really not as Darwinian as they are self serving.  The old saying, "Familiarity Breeds Contempt," turns friendships into like an old oil slick that slowly spreads and discolors the waters of that same Information Waterway.  The world of .coms takes great disciplines and with a group that is willing to keep an eye on verbal manners with each other, the question slowly becomes to Web Site Owners, why am I beating my brains out to help the Me Now Generation when that same generation doesn’t return basic, common courtesies of speech? Web Sites should be user friendly and most are, but News Groups should not enter those sites and then demean years of hard work that brings joy to tens of thousands of people with a simple demeaning hit of the return key.  We all are judged by our words.  The days of yore were much more user friendly until the college nerds started entering fly fishing without knowing years of our previous history, but that is another story. Marketing is like a balancing act.  If you trip on that high wire, the fall could kill you.  The same goes for News Groups. Mr. G. — http://www.gink.com/ Latest Updates

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- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – [Blah blah] Mr. G. — http://www.gink.com/ Latest Updates I couln’t agree more george. Let’s take your site as an example. You have several addresses all short sweet and related to fly fishing. Yet when you look at the site there really is very little content. However, you freely post you wealth of information on public news groups. Forget about bamboo rods. you’re sitting on a gold mine and you don’t even know it. Spend some time and build your web site. If you build it they will come. All those pairs of eyes and for every pair of eyes that go to your site you can collect advertizing revenues (from complementary products not competing ones).

_______  Thank you for the thoughtful suggestion and advisement. However; David Ion and I are currently doing a massive site update and installing our new SHOPPING CREEL program, which by the way will be available to any other Dealers interested in a clean, e-commerce solution for their web site.  They will also be able to order all site programs we use via the new SHOPPING CREEL.  Per  your exact thoughts, I choose to follow your advice.  FEED ME! Expound more please.  We are kicking butt on a daily basis and we are working until past 0300 AM every day.  We are getting about 5 hours a sleep a day.  Our coding is as good as it can get. Again, thank you Salmon_fly. Mr. G. & I The next thing you know your site’s hit rate will make Amazon’s look like a stale link. Take it public and Gherke will be known in every household in the world. Then the ROFFians can look back and say we knew him when. TImes a wasting get to work. Before you buy.

– http://www.gink.com/ Latest Updates

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,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,  ;-)  ,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – [Blah blah] Mr. G. — http://www.gink.com/ Latest Updates I couln’t agree more george. Let’s take your site as an example. You have several addresses all short sweet and related to fly fishing. Yet when you look at the site there really is very little content. However, you freely post you wealth of information on public news groups. Forget about bamboo rods. you’re sitting on a gold mine and you don’t even know it. Spend some time and build your web site. If you build it they will come. All those pairs of eyes and for every pair of eyes that go to your site you can collect advertizing revenues (from complementary products not competing ones). _______  Thank you for the thoughtful suggestion and advisement. However; David Ion and I are currently doing a massive site update and installing our new SHOPPING CREEL program, which by the way will be available to any other Dealers interested in a clean, e-commerce solution for their web site.  They will also be able to order all site programs we use via the new SHOPPING CREEL.  Per  your exact thoughts, I choose to follow your advice.  FEED ME! Expound more please.  We are kicking butt on a daily basis and we are working until past 0300 AM every day.  We are getting about 5 hours a sleep a day.  Our coding is as good as it can get. Again, thank you Salmon_fly. Mr. G. & I The next thing you know your site’s hit rate will make Amazon’s look like a stale link. Take it public and Gherke will be known in every household in the world. Then the ROFFians can look back and say we knew him when. TImes a wasting get to work. Before you buy.

Harry Mason www.troutflies.com

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Dave LaCourse wrote Planeties writes: by the way every place you used the word " then " it should have been " than ". LOL.  He has been told that numerous time, Bob.  He doesn’t understand the difference.

Well than.  Maybe their’s less diffrince then you think! —                                                       -dnc-

Response:

Party time. How nice. You’ve invited SPAM Luncheon Meat to your party. What’s that? It’s a SPAM Party. Well then, you’ll want a SPAM Party Pack. It’s got everything you need to give your party a distinctive SPAM flavor. Everything, that is, except SPAM, which of course can easily be found at your local fishing newsgroup. The SPAM Party Pack serves 12. Cost: $39, plus a shipping and handling charge of $7. Pack includes:                                             SPAM invitations.                                             SPAM paper tablecloth.                                             SPAM paper napkins.                                             SPAM plastic ware.                                             SPAM paper plates.                                             SPAM balloons.                                             SPAM plastic serving tray.                                             SPAM plastic stadium cups.                                             SPAM pennant.                                             SPAM recipe book.                                             And, just for you, a SPAM apron. SPAM Party Packs.                                        No. of SPAM Party                                        Amount enclosed: ($39 ea + $7.00 shipping/handling)                                        Email                                        Payment type: (check one)                                        _____ Check                                        _____ Credit Card (Visa, Mastercard, Discover)                                        Credit Card Type:_____(Visa) _____(MC)                                        _____(Disc.)                                        Credit Card                                        Credit Card                                        Expiration                                        Mail this form with payment to:                                        SPAM Party Pack                                        Gift Center                                        1 Hormel Place                                        Austin, MN 55912 — Levi Life is anything that dies when you stomp on it.                                                         — Dave Barry

Response:

Mr. G. — http://www.gink.com/ Latest Updates

muchpreachy drivel snipped. with you george it’s "do as i say and not as i do".by the way every place you used the word " then " it should have been " than ". tick tick tick, Bob Before you buy.

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[Blah blah] Mr. G. — http://www.gink.com/ Latest Updates

I couln’t agree more george. Let’s take your site as an example. You have several addresses all short sweet and related to fly fishing. Yet when you look at the site there really is very little content. However, you freely post you wealth of information on public news groups. Forget about bamboo rods. you’re sitting on a gold mine and you don’t even know it. Spend some time and build your web site. If you build it they will come. All those pairs of eyes and for every pair of eyes that go to your site you can collect advertizing revenues (from complementary products not competing ones). The next thing you know your site’s hit rate will make Amazon’s look like a stale link. Take it public and Gherke will be known in every household in the world. Then the ROFFians can look back and say we knew him when. TImes a wasting get to work. Before you buy.

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dot shit ? — TimW, Halfordian Golfer "A Cash Flow Runs Through It…" "Guilt replaced the creel…"

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Planeties writes: by the way every place you used the word " then " it should have been " than ".

LOL.  He has been told that numerous time, Bob.  He doesn’t understand the difference. Dave L.

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dot shit ? — TimW, Halfordian Golfer "A Cash Flow Runs Through It…" "Guilt replaced the creel…"

got gink?

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Question:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Well that’s the case for me Terry. It takes around 3 days for a dose change of only 2 units to be "noticed" and another 3 days for things to settle again. It took me close on two weeks to change successfully from 28 units per day to 24 units and back up slightly to 26 units, when I was finding my best basal dose. As you probably know, I use beef Lente, but when I was using Novo’s Ultratard, the same thing applied. I had to accept that any changes needed a week to be fully "absorbed" Beav Thanks. So what I’ve been doing is eating like crazy. The last last weekend away I had to eat so much my gut was full and could hardly process all the food.

Can’t you reduce the Humalog during a strenuous weekend and eat "slightly" more than usual? That’s what I have to do VERY regularly as no two weeks are alike with me. It was a real problem. So I’ve been thinking of 2 other approaches. I could drink a sugar filled soft drink like Coke as needed -easier to digest.OR go on the pump.

Pumping isn’t high on the list of "wantables" for me, but the odd Coke does the trick if I’ve cut back on my Humalog. If all you use in a pump is say Humalog, you could adjust very easily.

I would imagine so. Of course starting on the pump is a big undertaking and I would need to consider other factors. But I need to know my options because I need to keep up my habit of Salt Water Fly Fishing!

Sorry Terry, I have no experience of either. I don’t even know what a salt water fly LOOKS like Thoughts?

Only the "less Humalog" and a good supply of instant sugar. I prefer Mars Bars myself for those heavy days coz they give a pretty quick lift and I don’t "crash and burn" too soon after. Beav

Response:

Well that’s the case for me Terry. It takes around 3 days for a dose change of only 2 units to be "noticed" and another 3 days for things to settle again. It took me close on two weeks to change successfully from 28 units per day to 24 units and back up slightly to 26 units, when I was finding my best basal dose. As you probably know, I use beef Lente, but when I was using Novo’s Ultratard, the same thing applied. I had to accept that any changes needed a week to be fully "absorbed" Beav

Thanks. So what I’ve been doing is eating like crazy. The last last weekend away I had to eat so much my gut was full and could hardly process all the food. It was a real problem. So I’ve been thinking of 2 other approaches. I could drink a sugar filled soft drink like Coke as needed -easier to digest.OR go on the pump. If all you use in a pump is say Humalog, you could adjust very easily. Of course starting on the pump is a big undertaking and I would need to consider other factors. But I need to know my options because I need to keep up my habit of Salt Water Fly Fishing! Thoughts?

Response:

I am a type 1 and take Humalog and Ultralente 3 years. As I look back on this summer I see I made some good improvements on dealing with camping trips, fishing trips, hiking and other strenuous activity. I’m really trying to get a better hold on how to deal with strenuous weekends as it relates to my long acting Ultalente.  Currently what happens is I will go away for a weekend that involves lots of excercise and fresh air in the outdoors. I tend to go in the low BG direction the 1st day and start eating like crazy. Yes I cut back on my Humalog for sure as I do when ever I excercise. But it’s not enough. I think the long acting insulins start to dominate. I tried once this last fall on a weekend sporting trip to cut back my U but was not sure. Isn’t it true that the long acting insulins develop some sort of momentum in your system? And if so,  just reducing your U  level 10-20 hours before hand will NOT have an effect? — Terence Weir

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writes – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -I am a type 1 and take Humalog and Ultralente 3 years. As I look back on this summer I see I made some good improvements on dealing with camping trips, fishing trips, hiking and other strenuous activity. I’m really trying to get a better hold on how to deal with strenuous weekends as it relates to my long acting Ultalente.  Currently what happens is I will go away for a weekend that involves lots of excercise and fresh air in the outdoors. I tend to go in the low BG direction the 1st day and start eating like crazy. Yes I cut back on my Humalog for sure as I do when ever I excercise. But it’s not enough. I think the long acting insulins start to dominate. I tried once this last fall on a weekend sporting trip to cut back my U but was not sure. Isn’t it true that the long acting insulins develop some sort of momentum in your system? And if so,  just reducing your U  level 10-20 hours before hand will NOT have an effect?

Well that’s the case for me Terry. It takes around 3 days for a dose change of only 2 units to be "noticed" and another 3 days for things to settle again. It took me close on two weeks to change successfully from 28 units per day to 24 units and back up slightly to 26 units, when I was finding my best basal dose. As you probably know, I use beef Lente, but when I was using Novo’s Ultratard, the same thing applied. I had to accept that any changes needed a week to be fully "absorbed" Beav

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Question:

I’m getting away from DC for a weekend soon.  Any recommendations for a good fly fishing spot near the Blue Ridge in VA or WV?  Thanks.

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J. A nice weekend would be one of three places.  Closest to you would be a B&B in Edinburgh Va. over in the Valley.  Harry Murray’s fly shop is there and he can direct you to Big Stony Creek and others.  Next closest would be Warm Springs VA. about 3.5 hours away.  For cheap lodging I recommend the Roselow Motel.  About $40 or$50 a night and nice accommodations.  Try the Steak house across the street next to the high school.  To fish head to the Poor Farm Road (Rt. 621) area of the Jackson River.  Follow the road to the end (becomes dirt) and park at the LAST possible parking area.  Hike about 1/2 mile south along the river to the Special Regs. section.  Lastly try Damascus Va.  About 6 hours away.  So many streams I can’t list them all. Try the South Fork of the Holston or Laurel Creek.  Two trout streams converge in town.  Several nice B&B’s in town.  Now, Stay the hell off the Rappahannock this weekend!  Above Fredericksburg the smallmouth WILL NOT be hitting everything you throw at them.  The water temperature WILL NOT be perfect!  The rains HAVE NOT flushed and oxygenated the water!  The guy flailing the water fruitlessly with terrible casts knows NOTHING about fishing and is a danger to everyone around him.  DO NOT GO THERE!!!!  GO FAR AWAY!! Wayne (from Spotsylvania) To fish is human…to release Divine. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I’m getting away from DC for a weekend soon.  Any recommendations for a good fly fishing spot near the Blue Ridge in VA or WV?  Thanks.

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Question:

Hi John, I have been using poppers made by the Accardo Tackle Co., 3708 Conrad Drive, Baton Rouge, LA 70805 for some time. They seem to hold up very well as long as no tooth critter hits it. I have no connection with this company. Jack in Tn.

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I’m amazed nobody responded with the following name (remember it well!): Bob’s Lucky Day Lures in Dumfries, Virginia. This guy typically advertises in one (or more) of the major FF periodicals, and his poppers are BOMBPROOF. In fact, he guarantees them for at least 100 landed fish. He sells a wide range of sizes and styles. The bodies are made of high-quality, closed-cell yellow foam on Daichi hooks. You can literally drive over one of these with your car and they won’t come apart! Email me if you can’t find his ad or number and I’ll dig it up. Scott Wilkinson

Response:

There was a place a few years ago at least out in Colorado I think called "The Bass Shop" or "The Bass Bug" or something like that and it sold a good array of bugs, poppers and etc. Hopefully someone else will update as to the right name and if they are still in business. Nice place.

That would be The Bass Pond – in Denver. I don’t have their phone number or address but I’m sure they’re still in business. They carry quality warm water fly fishing gear.

Response:

We sell Mustad 33903 kink shank popper hooks in sizes 1 to size 14–$5.95 per box of 100 and size 1/0 is $6.35 per box of 100.  We also sell assortment packages we put together ourselves.  This way our customers can get several different sizes without breaking the bank or buying too many of one hook size–they can also tell, pretty quickly, which sizes they will need to eventually purchase in larger quantities. Each 33903 assortment  package is $7.25.  The large sized hook assortment includes 20 each of sizes 1/0, 1, 2, 4, & 6.  The medium sized hook assortment includes 20 each of sizes 2, 4, 6, 8, & 10.  The small sized hook assortment includes 20 each of sizes 6, 8, 10, 12, & 14. We have practically stopped using the foam poppers altogether and have switched to poppers we make using Softex and Flexo tubing.  They are practically indestructible, can be tied in huge variety of sizes and shapes (we also make sliders), and can be colored very effectively with permanent markers.  Because of the versatility of the materials and ability to custom tailor the design, we’ve found them to be hugely productive–even more so than the foam poppers. We sell AirHead (Flexo) Poppers in our mail order catalog, as well as the Flexo tubing and Softex.  We have an introductory package which includes a jar of Softex and 5 yards of assorted sizes of Flexo tubing available for $16.95.  We have a three page brochure and instruction sheet on working with Softex and Flexo we’d be happy to send anyone who is interested. For a free copy of our mail order catalog or information on Softex/Flexo, send us email or call us toll-free at 1-888-200-0364. Lauren Hart Brazos FlyFishers   http://www.brazosflyfishers.com – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Me too!  I’d really like to find a source of small poppers (size 16 hook preferred, size 14 acceptable), made ON A POPPER HOOK (one or two humps in hook shank to keep body from rotating), cork or plastic body, and with none of those silly, annoying rubber band legs that keep fish from touching "anything sharp" (like the hook).  I haven’t even seen the proper hooks to make my own!  I used to be able to purchase commercially exactly what I’ve described. I am so sick and tired of cheap poppers that don’t float and/or fall apart after catching a few fish. Does A N Y B O D Y know of a catalog or web site with a good selection of quality poppers? I’ve read in articles about these new foam poppers that float well and are durable. They are on the high end, 3 or 4 bucks a piece, but I’d love to try some…can’t find them anywhere. —  Custom Internet Applications  John Scherrer/Marketing Specialist  Voice 814-756-4682 Fax 814-756-3416  http://www.cianow.com  "Creating websites that work!"

Response:

Try www.fishypete.com the prices there are a lot lower than most places.

Response:

I am so sick and tired of cheap poppers that don’t float and/or fall apart after catching a few fish. Does A N Y B O D Y know of a catalog or web site with a good selection of quality poppers? I’ve read in articles about these new foam poppers that float well and are durable. They are on the high end, 3 or 4 bucks a piece, but I’d love to try some…can’t find them anywhere. —  Custom Internet Applications  John Scherrer/Marketing Specialist  Voice 814-756-4682 Fax 814-756-3416  http://www.cianow.com  "Creating websites that work!"

Response:

I am so sick and tired of cheap poppers that don’t float and/or fall apart after catching a few fish. Does A N Y B O D Y know of a catalog or web site with a good selection of quality poppers? I’ve read in articles about these new foam poppers that float well and are durable. They are on the high end, 3 or 4 bucks a piece, but I’d love to try some…can’t find them anywhere.

        There was a place a few years ago at least out in Colorado I think called "The Bass Shop" or "The Bass Bug" or something like that and it sold a good array of bugs, poppers and etc. Hopefully someone else will update as to the right name and if they are still in business. Nice place. Also, you might want to look at getting in touch with the Arbogast Co. out of Ohio I think. They now own the "Hank Roberts" line of stuff, and I’ve always been fairly happy with their bugs, but I don’t think they make foam stuff like you are talking about. I’ve used the foam, but have not really found any bugs that have the right combo of weight, lack of wind resistance, high flotation and etc. for some reason. Maybe have not tried enough? So I use lots of the "Sneaky Pete’s" which are made by ??? (Hank Roberts Co.?) But, one thing I tried a few years ago after reading an article in an old FF mag was to make my own foam poppers. You buy the bass bug hook and then a pair of those stupid semi-hard foam "flip-flops" for your feet at your local K-Mart in whatever color that strikes your fancy. You then cut out the popper body from the sole foam in whatever size/shape you want, cut a slit in the bottom which fits over the hook and Crazy Glue it on. Wind on some hackle in back and maybe a tail or two and that’s it. No need for fancy tying skills. Amazingly, they worked great for me. Just the right combo of weight, high flotation, castability and etc. The only problem I had was with cutting a decent body, or at least one that looked decent to me, but then again as my mother put it years ago when trying to teach me cursive writing, my fine-motor skills need work.         Good luck. tgb

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Me too!  I’d really like to find a source of small poppers (size 16 hook preferred, size 14 acceptable), made ON A POPPER HOOK (one or two humps in hook shank to keep body from rotating), cork or plastic body, and with none of those silly, annoying rubber band legs that keep fish from touching "anything sharp" (like the hook).  I haven’t even seen the proper hooks to make my own!  I used to be able to purchase commercially exactly what I’ve described. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I am so sick and tired of cheap poppers that don’t float and/or fall apart after catching a few fish. Does A N Y B O D Y know of a catalog or web site with a good selection of quality poppers? I’ve read in articles about these new foam poppers that float well and are durable. They are on the high end, 3 or 4 bucks a piece, but I’d love to try some…can’t find them anywhere. —  Custom Internet Applications  John Scherrer/Marketing Specialist  Voice 814-756-4682 Fax 814-756-3416  http://www.cianow.com  "Creating websites that work!"

Response:

I am so sick and tired of cheap poppers that don’t float and/or fall apart after catching a few fish. Does A N Y B O D Y know of a catalog or web site with a good selection of quality poppers? I’ve read in articles about these new foam poppers that float well and are durable. They are on the high end, 3 or 4 bucks a piece, but I’d love to try some…can’t find them anywhere. — Custom Internet Applications John Scherrer/Marketing Specialist Voice 814-756-4682 Fax 814-756-3416 http://www.cianow.com "Creating websites that work!"

Hi John, We carry the Umpqua hard bodied poppers that come in Red/white or Frog that have a good Tiemco hook in them for $3.50 and the Spirit River foam poppers that come in Yellow, Black or Green with a quality hook at $2.95. We also carry the Ganes poppers in lots of sizes and colors that are made in the USA with Mustad hooks at about $2.49. I recommend using 0x to 2x tippet on these poppers so you don’t loose them or that giant bass. Bill Kiene Kiene’s Fly Shop Sacramento,CA,USA 800/4000FLY www.kiene.com

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Generally, unless you are doing  a lot of work for the toothier critters like pike and muskie (or unless you are in the salt…) I think the Gaines products are very adequate for the price.  I fish them in fairly small sizes (6-10) for smallmouth and usually lose the paint job far before I get a disconnect between the body and the hook, and they become useless.  Each one seeoms to be good for about 30-40 bass or 50 direct  hits on boulders, whichever comes first.  I also suspect (but do not know for certain..) that the Gaines poppers are also sold under Cortland’s name, as well as several others.  They are US made in northern Potter county, PA by squadrons of little old ladies with tattoos on their arms and Marsh-Wheelings (the world’s only cigar that the more you smoke it, the longer it gets…) clamped in their teeth..:).  They are good poppers.  

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Me too!  I’d really like to find a source of small poppers (size 16 hook preferred, size 14 acceptable), made ON A POPPER HOOK (one or two humps in hook shank to keep body from rotating), cork or plastic body, and with none of those silly, annoying rubber band legs that keep fish from touching "anything sharp" (like the hook).  I haven’t even seen the proper hooks to

make my own!  I used to

be able to purchase commercially exactly what I’ve described.

I just started tying my own bass poppers and flies using both hard bodies and deer hair.  I’ve been tying my own trout flies for a long time, but bass bug making is a whole new world – maybe in another 10 years I’ll get good at it!  :-)     You can get the hooks you mentioned from the Hook & Hackle Company. ‘Sorry, I’m at work and don’t have their catalog in front of me, but they are a big outfit and shouldn’t be hard to find….  They also carry pre-formed cork bodies, paint, and everything else you need to get started.  The hard (cork) bodied poppers are not difficult to tie, and would be a good place to start.  Try getting Dick Stewart’s book, which is entitled something like _Tying Bass Flies_.  The title may be off, but it’s the best book on the subject I have found.  Spinning and working with deer hair is a bit difficult to master, but if you already tie deer hair bodies trout flies, (like Muddler Minnows, Adams Irresistibles, etc.), you’ll have a head start.  Actually, these patterns also make good bass flies when tied in really large sizes. I am so sick and tired of cheap poppers that don’t float and/or fall apart after catching a few fish. Does A N Y B O D Y know of a catalog or web site with a good selection of quality poppers? I’ve read in articles about these new foam poppers that float well and are durable. They are on the high end, 3 or 4 bucks a piece, but I’d love to try some…can’t find them anywhere. —  Custom Internet Applications  John Scherrer/Marketing Specialist  Voice 814-756-4682 Fax 814-756-3416  http://www.cianow.com  "Creating websites that work!"

  ‘Hope this helps.   Cheers, and tight lines,   -Mark

Response:

Question:

: :Is it really possible-as our friend with his first boat seems to think it :is-for  any  GPS to "steer" a boat running WOT around all these hazards?   no, the accuracy is only good to 50ft or so under ideal conditions. — george jefferson

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| Now, the question: | | Is it really possible-as our friend with his first boat seems to think it | is-for  any  GPS to "steer" a boat running WOT around all these hazards?   | Seems to me it would take a complete map of the bottom and more waypoints | than any  device could handle. | | Peggie Hall/Peal Products | Specializing in marine toilet systems since 1987 | (And should prob’ly stick to giving plumbing advice only!) | | Peggie, If your boating friends make such wide-sweeping assumptions that you do, then I can understand why they would run aground in the middle of a channel! Actually, many ocean-going boats have much more advanced guidance and navigation systems than most of the lake-trailers that you see on Lake Lanier. Auto-pilots and GPS combined are used by many fishing and scuba outfits to drop almost dead-on a target with minimal search. I’ve seen it done many times. Please read what I have written again. If I was looking for a target, why would I run WOT? However, if I was heading for a fishing spot on, say, Lake Hiwassee, and I knew the GPS co-ordinates, then why do you fail to see the value in inland lake GPS? Actually, there are GPS maps of many lakes available, with features pre-programmed. Plug and play, as it were. I doubt that any electronics, whether it be GPS or marine radios, can replace the instrument between your ears. Now, you want to talk useless. With a toilet at every ramp, who needs a marine toilet?

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I doubt that any electronics, whether it be GPS or marine radios, can replace the instrument between your ears.

Absolutely true. You mentioned going fast, night running, unfamiliarity with powerboats, unfamiliarity with the lake (which has a nasty habit of changing week to week)…and spoke of using a GPS to do your navigating. But from your above comments, it’s obvious I misread your intent to use it to navigate going fast at night…Sorry!  However,  when you’ve heard as many stories as I have about some of the ideas new boat owners have, it’s understandable.  The best one recently was a dealer who told me about a first time buyer who wanted GPS and an autopilot on his new houseboat so it could take him back to his slip at night if he was too drunk to do it himself! I see bass boats hauling all over the lake at night at WOT (more often than not with no lights showing BTW)… occasionally hear of  tragic consequences….I just don’t want you to be  one of  ’em. Now, you want to talk useless. With a toilet at every ramp, who needs a marine toilet?

Anyone who has a boat with enough privacy for one who doesn’t  want to go find a toilet on land every time his wife has to pee! <gg Bring that shiny new toy up my way one of these days and I’ll buy you a beer…it’s the least I can do after insulting your intelligence! Peggie Hall/Peal Products Specializing in marine toilet systems since 1987

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WARNING – This post will have little content. I picked up my first bass boat on Saturday and I am gleaming from ear to ear.

Welcome to boating!  I plan to add a Bimini top, fishfinder(s), bilge pump (not included!), and a tachometer, once the checkbook balances out. I even have to add tie-down cleats! I put in another 6 gallon tank.

Welcome to the reality of owning (and dumping money into) a boat . . .

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For one thing, you’ll learn that GPS isn’t a speedometer…it stands for Global Positioning System…it’s a computerized satellite navigation system that tells you where you are and what course to steer in latitude/longitude terms. Since you can always see the shore on all sides, you don’t need one to find your way home on Lanier!

Gee, my GPS displays current course and speed. (In knots, statute miles per hour, or km per hour) If you go over the the sci… groups, you can debate whether the speed is calculated based on delta-t / delta-d or doppler shift. Lee Lindquist     lindquist ‘at’ ibm.net "Only 2 more years until people stop telling me when the millenium REALLY ends."

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- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – For one thing, you’ll learn that GPS isn’t a speedometer…it stands for Global Positioning System…it’s a computerized satellite navigation system that tells you where you are and what course to steer in latitude/longitude terms. Since you can always see the shore on all sides, you don’t need one to find your way home on Lanier! Gee, my GPS displays current course and speed. (In knots, statute miles per hour, or km per hour) If you go over the the sci… groups, you can debate whether the speed is calculated based on delta-t / delta-d or doppler shift.

So I’ve heard from a dozen people via e-mail!  Since there’s no real practical use for ‘em on an inland lake, the only ones I’ve seen were on friends’ sailboats on the Chesapeake Bay….and those only showed course and position. The owners  all have separate knotmeters. How ’bout expanding  my learning curve a bit more…first, the lake conditions: Lanier is a river in the foothills of the Smokies that was dammed and spread out over hills & valleys…around 260′ deep at the dam, but as little as 15′ deep up "creeks" out of the main channel. The water level fluctuates as much as 13′…what’s  6′ below the surface-and no problem–at full pool can "rise" to 2′ below it in a  matter of a week or two,  much of  it in the middle of  channels.  And the shoreline "moves" as a result.  In fact, the shoreline is "expanding" and islands  are shrinking–some have disappeared –due primarily to wake…Lanier is the most-used Corps of Engineers lake in the country. While the areas that are always shallow, many of which are passable when the lake is at full pool, but not when it’s down as little as 2′,  are marked,  it’s impossible to mark the ones that appear and disappear with fluctuating water levels as fast as often happens …and markers get knocked down. "Local knowledge" of the reefs and shoal waters is  essential…prop and outdrive repair accounts for a major percentage of the marine repair  business around the lake…even seasoned boaters who’ve been on the lake for more than a decade fall victim, proceeding VERY cautiously even in the daytime, and especially at night. Just last fall a friend who’s had a houseboat on the lake for more than 20 years lost an outdrive on an unmarked shoal in the main  channel of the lake, more than 100 yds from the shore…running at about  1200 rpms, but not paying enough attention to his course. Now, the question: Is it really possible-as our friend with his first boat seems to think it is-for  any  GPS to "steer" a boat running WOT around all these hazards?   Seems to me it would take a complete map of the bottom and more waypoints than any  device could handle. Peggie Hall/Peal Products Specializing in marine toilet systems since 1987 (And should prob’ly stick to giving plumbing advice only!)

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| Congratulations!  You’re about to find out why B.O.A.T. stands for Break | Out Another Thousand! <gg | | However…. | | I am new to powered boats, but have driven friend’s boats. This boat | will fly! I am not sure how fast, though – no GPS, yet. I plan to add… | | But first do the rest of us on Lanier–and yourself–a HUGE favor: take | a Coast Guard Auxiliary or US Power Squadron boating safety course! | | For one thing, you’ll learn that GPS isn’t a speedometer…it stands for | Global Positioning System…it’s a computerized satellite navigation | system that tells you where you are and what course to steer in | latitude/longitude terms. Since you can always see the shore on all | sides, you don’t need one to find your way home on Lanier! | | You DO need a VHF radio, however…so you can call for help when you run | out of gas. <GG | | A boating safety course costs nothing but the time to do it. You’ll | learn the rules of the road, correct VHF procedure, how to read a chart, | how to recognize when weather is building and get to shelter before the | storm hits (I’ve been on Lanier in sudden squalls packing 45 knot | winds–NOT where someone in a 17′ open boat wants to be!)…safety gear | and how to use it–what’s required…a whole BUNCH of information that | could save your life–or mine. <g | | Have fun and be safe!  When you get the radio (and learn how to use it), | call SOLITAIRE…I’d love to see your boat. | | Peggie Hall/Peal Products | Specializing in marine toilet systems since 1987 | | Peggie | Thanks Peggy, I am reading a boating safety manual right now, which is probably more than most boaters do as a minimum. It is not my first time on the water, just my first power boat. I’ve have four other boats under the deck. Thanks, too, for the info on the GPS. I was trying to head off the corrective comments about speedometers not being accurate. GPS is a lot more useful than just finding your way back to the dock, in my estimation. It can be a safety device in tough boating conditions such as inclement weather or just being in the dark. Shorelines can be tricky to read in the dark, and one might not want to run next to waterway markers if there is a boat anchored nearby. Last, but not least, GPS can be used to re-locate positions, whether it be underwater cover, building foundations (my wife and I are divers, as well), and submerged islands, particularly on the distant lakes where I plan to trailer my boat. Not too sure I need a VHF radio, though. I’ve got twelve gallons of gas and I am an awful cautious. I switch over a tank leaving enough to get back on in the empty. I prefer to have a HONKIN’ bilge pump with a redundant back-up to buy me enough time to get to safety or shore. I have been in a thirteen foot Ghenoe on a river when it was raining so hard and the boat was filling with water so fast that I couldn’t stop bailing long enough to set the gear out of the boat on the bank! I’ve also paddled the Ocoee river in my kayak a few of times and gotten chewed up by Double Trouble and Diamond Splitter, as well as Hell Hole and Double Suck, but I’ll say this…it wasn’t as thrilling as cruising the lake in MY BASS BOAT!!! See you on the water.

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Congratulations!  You’re about to find out why B.O.A.T. stands for Break Out Another Thousand! <gg However…. I am new to powered boats, but have driven friend’s boats. This boat will fly! I am not sure how fast, though – no GPS, yet. I plan to add…

But first do the rest of us on Lanier–and yourself–a HUGE favor: take a Coast Guard Auxiliary or US Power Squadron boating safety course! For one thing, you’ll learn that GPS isn’t a speedometer…it stands for Global Positioning System…it’s a computerized satellite navigation system that tells you where you are and what course to steer in latitude/longitude terms. Since you can always see the shore on all sides, you don’t need one to find your way home on Lanier! You DO need a VHF radio, however…so you can call for help when you run out of gas. <GG A boating safety course costs nothing but the time to do it. You’ll learn the rules of the road, correct VHF procedure, how to read a chart, how to recognize when weather is building and get to shelter before the storm hits (I’ve been on Lanier in sudden squalls packing 45 knot winds–NOT where someone in a 17′ open boat wants to be!)…safety gear and how to use it–what’s required…a whole BUNCH of information that could save your life–or mine. <g Have fun and be safe!  When you get the radio (and learn how to use it), call SOLITAIRE…I’d love to see your boat. Peggie Hall/Peal Products Specializing in marine toilet systems since 1987 Peggie

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I think its great that you got you’re first boat. I bought my first boat as well last week. Its an old boat a ‘72 Starcraft with a small motor (35 HP). We took it out Sunday and ran around a local lake. Sonce i was a kid I’ve wanted a boat. Someday, I’ll upgrade, but I’m just in heaven from this boat. I did not catch any fish my first time out, but I did not really try. Have fun and be safe. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – WARNING – This post will have little content. I picked up my first bass boat on Saturday and I am gleaming from ear to ear. I bought a 17ft Grumman with console steering with a 50HP Johnson with pwr trim/ tilt. Two casting decks, aerated livewell, and a Johnson foot-operated trolling motor. My wife and I went out both Saturday and Sunday on Lake Lanier (north of Atlanta) and just had a blast. I caught a small spotted bass (about 1-1/4#) and she made me bring him home and clean him, since it was the inaugural bass, in the first 15 minutes of fishing! I am new to powered boats, but have driven friend’s boats. This boat will fly! I am not sure how fast, though – no GPS, yet. I plan to add a Bimini top, fishfinder(s), bilge pump (not included!), and a tachometer, once the checkbook balances out. I even have to add tie-down cleats! I put in another 6 gallon tank. This boat sips fuel, though. My wife loves it and the dogs were great for their first trip out. Got to get that bimini top on, though, for everyone’s sake. There was hardly anybody on the lake, especially yesterday. Although, it was partly sunny, we saw only a dozen boats. Great time for us to try out our new baby. The name of our new boat? Well, I guess we’re getting silly as we age, but we call our new Ford truck the "Golden Boy" (after the "Seinfeld" episode), so our aluminum boat is called the "Silver Queen", after the corn we love to pick out of our teeth. See you on the water…

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This is what it is all ABOUT!!! Tear it up Tom & family…. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – WARNING – This post will have little content. I picked up my first bass boat on Saturday and I am gleaming from ear to ear. I bought a 17ft Grumman with console steering with a 50HP Johnson with pwr trim/ tilt. Two casting decks, aerated livewell, and a Johnson foot-operated trolling motor. My wife and I went out both Saturday and Sunday on Lake Lanier (north of Atlanta) and just had a blast. I caught a small spotted bass (about 1-1/4#) and she made me bring him home and clean him, since it was the inaugural bass, in the first 15 minutes of fishing! I am new to powered boats, but have driven friend’s boats. This boat will fly! I am not sure how fast, though – no GPS, yet. I plan to add a Bimini top, fishfinder(s), bilge pump (not included!), and a tachometer, once the checkbook balances out. I even have to add tie-down cleats! I put in another 6 gallon tank. This boat sips fuel, though. My wife loves it and the dogs were great for their first trip out. Got to get that bimini top on, though, for everyone’s sake. There was hardly anybody on the lake, especially yesterday. Although, it was partly sunny, we saw only a dozen boats. Great time for us to try out our new baby. The name of our new boat? Well, I guess we’re getting silly as we age, but we call our new Ford truck the "Golden Boy" (after the "Seinfeld" episode), so our aluminum boat is called the "Silver Queen", after the corn we love to pick out of our teeth. See you on the water…

Response:

WARNING – This post will have little content. I picked up my first bass boat on Saturday and I am gleaming from ear to ear. I bought a 17ft Grumman with console steering with a 50HP Johnson with pwr trim/ tilt. Two casting decks, aerated livewell, and a Johnson foot-operated trolling motor. My wife and I went out both Saturday and Sunday on Lake Lanier (north of Atlanta) and just had a blast. I caught a small spotted bass (about 1-1/4#) and she made me bring him home and clean him, since it was the inaugural bass, in the first 15 minutes of fishing! I am new to powered boats, but have driven friend’s boats. This boat will fly! I am not sure how fast, though – no GPS, yet. I plan to add a Bimini top, fishfinder(s), bilge pump (not included!), and a tachometer, once the checkbook balances out. I even have to add tie-down cleats! I put in another 6 gallon tank. This boat sips fuel, though. My wife loves it and the dogs were great for their first trip out. Got to get that bimini top on, though, for everyone’s sake. There was hardly anybody on the lake, especially yesterday. Although, it was partly sunny, we saw only a dozen boats. Great time for us to try out our new baby. The name of our new boat? Well, I guess we’re getting silly as we age, but we call our new Ford truck the "Golden Boy" (after the "Seinfeld" episode), so our aluminum boat is called the "Silver Queen", after the corn we love to pick out of our teeth. See you on the water…

Response:

Question:

I want to get into fly fishing in the surf off of Southern California. Plan to use an 8 wt…..what is a good line to use? I was thinking something like the Teeny T-300….any advice? Thanks in advance.

Response:

I want to get into fly fishing in the surf off of Southern California. Plan to use an 8 wt…..what is a good line to use? I was thinking something like the Teeny T-300….any advice? Thanks in advance.

The T-300 is a great line.  I have a HiD "big game" Triangle Taper that I like alot.  The biggest issue is that as a beginner you will probably fish better with a sinktip, as controlling a full sinking line in the surf is not exactly easy.  It gets under your boots and around your legs much more frequently, and until you learn to handle it you are out of touch with your flies alot of the time.  If you already own the T-300 just learn to use it.  But if you also own a 13 to 20 foot high speed sinktip, you might want to use that until you get better at line handling. Phil

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I want to get into fly fishing in the surf off of Southern California. Plan to use an 8 wt…..what is a good line to use? I was thinking something like the Teeny T-300….any advice? Thanks in advance.

YOU WILL DO WELL with shooting heads.  In fact, better. Mr. G.

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that is what I call an excellent response. Thank you for being specific about lines and how to. bill

Response:

that is what I call an excellent response. Thank you for being specific about lines and how to. bill

thorough indeed, but it is just one side of a very complex story.  If we are talking short (30 to 45 foot) casts PARALLEL to shore, which is what most beginners and many old timers will be doing in California (North and South), I would still contend that a beginner would be better served with a sinktip than a full sinking line or shooting taper.  As I stated earlier, I rely on full sinking lines, preferring them to Shooting Tapers, since changing line density isn’t important (fastest sink you have is all you need), and that and distance are the only advantages of the shooting taper over a full sinking line.  Line handling problems, the inability to make aerial mends, and finger cuts are all good arguments for avoiding shooting heads whenever possible.  By the way I do use shooting heads extensively for lakes, steelhead, shad, Jetties, rare occasions when I’m casting straight out, and rocky coastal shoreline so I don’t have a problem with them, I just restrict them to where they really shine.  I especially stand by my recommendation to stick with what you already own, rather than run out and buy the new rage thing. Phil

Response:

Perhaps I should explain myself a little better: thorough indeed, but it is just one side of a very complex story.  If we are talking short (30 to 45 foot) casts PARALLEL to shore, which is what most beginners and many old timers will be doing in California (North and South), I would still contend that a beginner would be better served with a sinktip than a full sinking line or shooting taper.

The biggest reason for using a lead head is precisely because so much of the casting is PARALLEL to shore.  When casting parallel to shore you are putting the greatest amount of line against the wave action of the surf.  This is like casting directly across a current.  The current (wave action in the surf) exihibits the greatest influence on the line pushing it sideways and causing a belly in the line.  And of course the waves not only go in, they also ebb back out.  Little time is spent without motion in the surf. Floating line is the fattest and most susceptible to this action.  The good news is you can mend it, the bad news is you can’t mend it fast enough or well enough to compensate satisfactorily for the action unless there is a lot of time between waves.  The sink-tip is only slightly better because at least part of it sinks into the strike zone (sometimes as shallow as 1 1/2 ft, sometimes as deep as 6 to 8 feet or more).  The full sinking line sinks along the entire line which prohibits mending but gets the fly down better than the other two.  The fastest sinking line you have will work the best.   It will be the thinnest and least susceptible to the movement of the surf and you have to remember that salt water is more bouyant than freshwater.  Sinking lines don’t sink as fast in the salt.   The lead head allows you to use 300+ grains of weight in 24 ft of line (as opposed to ~210 grains for 30 feet an 8 wt.) and is much thinner than any sinking line.  More weight and less surface area allows the line to get down quicker and stay in the zone longer especially when casting PARALLEL to shore.  Again, a casting basket makes a world of difference in the frustration factor. Now the news about the expense of one of these lines is that you can make your own for less than $10 or buy one for $12 to $14.  Amnesia for a shooting line will set you back around $3.50.  If you opt for the flat beam running line, it will cost you $7. No more than $21 at the most.   If you don’t want to invest in an extra spool and backing, just remove your floating line from your current 8 or 9 wt. rig and tie on the running line and shooting head.   Probably won’t break the bank and will save you the frustration I went through using all of the lines I have mentioned. As I stated earlier, I rely on full sinking lines, preferring them to Shooting Tapers, since changing line density isn’t important (fastest sink you have is all you need), and that and distance are the only advantages of the shooting taper over a full sinking line.

Even forgetting about the distance, the comparison is not even close.  Even the fastest sinking full line won’t sink or track as well as the lead head.  Their diameter is too large and their weight too little. Bear in mind that the first 30 feet of an 8 wt. floating line weighs exactly the same as the first 30 feet of an 8 wt. type V sinking line.  Higher density lines just have the same weight in less space.  That’s what *density* is all about. Line handling problems,

Casting basket eases the tangle problem and will still keep your fly in the zone longer than full sinking lines even with the occaisional tangle. the inability to make aerial mends, and finger cuts are all good arguments for avoiding shooting heads whenever possible.

Type of line has *nothing* to do with aerial mends.  How and where you move the tip of the rod *after* you make the stop on the forward cast determines where the aerial mend goes, not whether or not it is a full sinking line or a shooting head.  "Aerial mend" means repositioning the the line *while* it is in the air. Finger cuts can be avoided by using saltwater tape or stripping guards on your stripping fingers.  White adhesive tape works OK if you can’t find the specific saltwater stuff.  I also use tape or stripping guards when using a floating line for bonefish.  Part of the problem with line cuts comes from the abrasive nature of the salt in the water.  The thinner running line does aggravate it, but the greater fishing success helps compensate for this. *SNIP* I especially stand by my recommendation to stick with what you already own, rather than run out and buy the new rage thing.

Using whatever you can absolutely beats not fishing, but using the right tool for the job makes a big difference.   Lead core lines have been around longer than modern fly lines, so I wouldn’t call them the "new rage thing".  Casting is the biggest problem most people have with lead heads and if you like I will give some suggestions in another post because this one is already way too long. I don’t mean to sound rude, but I see no reason why someone should go through all the hoops I did to arrive at this solution.  Nonetheless, do whatever you like to do, because you are the only one you have to please to enjoy this sport and you may like to use a different method.  I just think you should give this a try.                                        Hope this clarifies my statements a bit,                                                     Dan Dan Gracia Orvis West Coast Fly Fishing Schools

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I want to get into fly fishing in the surf off of Southern California. Plan to use an 8 wt…..what is a good line to use? I was thinking something like the Teeny T-300….any advice? Thanks in advance.

Up in N. Cal one of the most popular lines for surf fishing is a lead head. This sounds scary, but actually works really well.  You can make your own or buy one from Orvis for $14.  I snagged one of the Orvis heads and then cut it back from 30 ft. to 24 ft. and put a loop on the end I cut off.  Works well on my 8 wt.  I use amnesia for the running line, but am going to try the flat beam running line ($7) that we just got in at the Orvis SF store.  Casting basket is a big help to control the running line.   The reason this works so well is that the lead core tracks far better than anything else in the surf.  Floating lines are real tough because the floating section gets whipped back and forth by the wave action so badly.  Same thing with sink tips.  Sometimes the full sinking lines work ok, but usually their cross-section is too big and gets pushed around by the waves too.  The thin lead core (I believe this is the 13gr. per foot version) sinks quickly in the more bouyant saltwater and stays in the trough or channel longer than other lines.  More time in the target area means more fish.  Not the most fun to cast, but not bad with some practice and very effective.                       Hope this helps,                               Dan Dan Gracia Orvis West Coast Fly Fishing Schools

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Question:

Last week while driving home after a great day of fishing the CaneyFork River in Tn. I laid my reddington fly rod in the back of my pick up truck , and while taking a corner my coleman cooler wiped out my custombuilt rod. Reddington is going to replace the blank , but I would like to get the struble reelseat off the broke rod , any helpful hints ? I would be so

the only way I know is to heat with a heat gun until the epoxy goes soft and pull it off…this works with most of the 5 minute epoxies… TimW

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Last week while driving home after a great day of fishing the CaneyFork River in Tn. I laid my reddington fly rod in the back of my pick up truck , and while taking a corner my coleman cooler wiped out my custombuilt rod. Reddington is going to replace the blank , but I would like to get the struble reelseat off the broke rod , any helpful hints ? I would be so                                                thank you                                                              Kent K. Anderson                                                              Nashville,Tn

Kent, Your Struble Reel Seat may be fine piece, but heating it to a temperature sufficient to loosen the epoxy can ruin the wood finish (speaking from experience here). I know of no way to protect the finish from the heat. You might also consider trying a drill press equipped with a bit the size of the seat’s original bore. Mitch Mulhall

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I’d like to take the time to thank all of you , that took the time to suggest the best way to remove a reel seat .The reel seat is off ! After cussing and breaking the blank again . I first laid it out in the 97 degree sun , while I mowed the yard. I then took the Mrs. . hairdryer and heated that mother up . Then , I pulled the cork grip and the reel seat apart . The corkgrip was the one that came off . To make a long story short  , I drilled it out using a 3/8th drill bit and held the vise in my hand , it just ate away the graphite . Once again thank you.                                                         Kent K .Anderson

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A friend of mine who builds rods tells me that he has done this procedure countless times.  You simply wrap the reel seat in ducy tape (lots of duct tape) and heat it all up with a torch.  The tape protects the wood while still getting the core hot enough to melt the epoxy.  I have not tried it myself. Hope this helps, gp

: Last week while driving home after a great day of fishing the CaneyFork : River in Tn. I laid my reddington fly rod in the back of my pick up truck : , and while taking a corner my coleman cooler wiped out my custombuilt : rod. Reddington is going to replace the blank , but I would like to get : the struble reelseat off the broke rod , any helpful hints ? I would be so :                                                thank you :                                                              Kent K. : Anderson :                                                              Nashville,Tn — gp

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- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text –   Last week while driving home after a great day of fishing the CaneyFork   River in Tn. I laid my reddington fly rod in the back of my pick up truck   , and while taking a corner my coleman cooler wiped out my custombuilt   rod. Reddington is going to replace the blank , but I would like to get   the struble reelseat off the broke rod , any helpful hints ? I would be so                                                  thank you                                                                Kent K.   Anderson                                                                Nashville,Tn  Kent,  Your Struble Reel Seat may be fine piece, but heating it to a temperature  sufficient to loosen the epoxy can ruin the wood finish (speaking from  experience here). I know of no way to protect the finish from the heat. You  might also consider trying a drill press equipped with a bit the size of the  seat’s original bore.  Mitch Mulhall

I agree with Mitch, having used this technique a few times, only without the drill press.  I use a hand held drill while holding the reel seat in a workmate (wrap the reel seat in a piece of old carpet).  What you’ll find is that the cutting point will displace the graphite, while the sides of the bit will generally not carve into the wood unless you create a severe angle.  Don’t try to cut to the bottom of the reel seat in one cut.  Instead, drill one quarter of the depth at a time, and pour the graphite out of the reel seat between quarters.  Good Luck Jeff Shafer

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Last week while driving home after a great day of fishing the CaneyFork River in Tn. I laid my reddington fly rod in the back of my pick up truck , and while taking a corner my coleman cooler wiped out my custombuilt rod. Reddington is going to replace the blank , but I would like to get the struble reelseat off the broke rod , any helpful hints ? I would be so                                                thank you                                                              Kent K. Anderson                                                              Nashville,Tn

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Question:

I’m going up to Seagull Lake in the BOundary Waters Canoe Area of Northern MN in late May.  I’m new to sm bass fly-fishing and was wondering what flys, sizes & patterns are successful.  If anyone knows Seagull, I sure would appreciate any pointers you would be willing to share.

Jon: Don’t know Seagull but was in BWCA last year at end of May precisely for FF for smallmouth, though I had a friend along with spinning gear. We started looking for them deepish at first, with little luck. Then went to shallower bays where water was warmer and fished right up against shore with poppers, Dahlberg Diver’s, etc. and from there on out it was a blast, esp. in the a.m. and p.m. I think almost anything on the surface would have worked, I liked foam poppers for indestructibility, but had fun with my own Muddlers too. (My friend just used small Rapalas that we did surgery on to get rid of the trebles and barbs.) Anything you can make a little disturbance with, and sometimes the more the better. But we found you had to really put that thing right up against shore. It would seem crazy, but the bass, even if obviously laying 3-4 feet away from shore, really appeared completely taken in by something spluttering away from the shore. I bet those Mouserat jobs would work fine, but my exp. with smallmouths is that you can’t go wrong with smallish lures. You are in for a great time. Just look for the warmest water possible. Northern shorelines of bays would seem smartest.

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I’m going up to Seagull Lake in the BOundary Waters Canoe Area of Northern MN in late May.  I’m new to sm bass fly-fishing and was wondering what flys, sizes & patterns are successful.  If anyone knows Seagull, I sure would appreciate any pointers you would be willing to share.  But we found you had to really put that thing right up against shore. It would seem crazy, but the bass, even if obviously laying 3-4 feet away from shore, really appeared completely taken in by something spluttering away from the shore.

I agree with putting it right on the bank and pulling it off.  I was up in Crooked Lake last May and bouncing it off rocks on the shore and letting it drop in was the most succesful. –Patrick

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I’m going up to Seagull Lake in the BOundary Waters Canoe Area of Northern MN in late May.  I’m new to sm bass fly-fishing and was wondering what flys, sizes & patterns are successful.  If anyone knows Seagull, I sure would appreciate any pointers you would be willing to share. Thanks ! Jonathan

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I’m going up to Seagull Lake in the BOundary Waters Canoe Area of Northern MN in late May.  I’m new to sm bass fly-fishing and was wondering what flys, sizes & patterns are successful.  If anyone knows

FF is suitable for bass in lakes only if the bass are shallow and you know where they are:  but you might be able to find river inflows and outflows which will be easier.  Try: — in streamy water at least a yard deep (potholes OK) fish a big streamer (Muddler or something brighter e.g. Yellow Sally) as deep as you can e.g. on a sink-tip line. — bring a few very small poppers on big hooks.  They’re not good hookers, but you can often tease bass up to the top and get hits. — be ready to match (very roughly) an evening rise to hatching insects, e.g. wet alder fly (for caddis), biggish nymphs, high-floating dries. The half hour after sunset can be thrilling, and if the moon is right (to see your fly) you can fish into full dark. — |  Donald Phillipson, 4180 Boundary Road, Carlsbad Springs,  | |        Ontario, Canada, K0A 1K0, tel. 613 822 0734         |

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Question:

Try http://www.flyfield.com/clipart.htm There is a link on that site to a second page. Hmm.  I tried both links with no luck: "Not found".  Maybe these pages require plug-ins, or? — Ken Brown Satis elequontiae, sapientiae parum.

– "If the facts do not conform to the theory, they must be disposed of."      Maier’s Law

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 I have jumpe to both of these sites, and it tells me that the URL is  no longer available.  Are the addresses correct?  Thanks!

Try this – it worked for me.  first go to http://www.flyfield.com Then, when your into the main page, change the request to http://www.flyfield.com/xclipart2.htm The clipart 1 page doesn’t seem to work but the clipart 2 page does.  He doesn’t give you a link to it on his page though so you have to ask for it by address.

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Hmm.  I tried both links with no luck: "Not found".  Maybe these pages require plug-ins, or? — Ken Brown Satis elequontiae, sapientiae parum.

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Try this – it worked for me.  first go to http://www.flyfield.com Then, when your into the main page, change the request to http://www.flyfield.com/xclipart2.htm The clipart 1 page doesn’t seem to work but the clipart 2 page does.  He doesn’t give you a link to it on his page though so you have to ask for it by address.

Well, I’m sure sorry if I caused any problems here. I admit that I didn’t test those URLs before posting my reply to Joe. They work from my bookmark list but, being digitally challenged, I am at a loss to explain why they don’t from here.  Anyway, I think that you have the right explanation (above). However, I went to the Fly Field homepage and found the #1 clip art gallary working this morning. Again, I apologize for causing any problems with my efforts help a fellow newsletter editor. Perhaps one of the many technically versed members of this group could help explain this situation for us. Steve

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Same here.  I am very interested in these sites. Dave D

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I have jumpe to both of these sites, and it tells me that the URL is no longer available.  Are the addresses correct?  Thanks! – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I’m the editor (still wet behind the ears!) of my TU Chapter’s newsletter.  Can anyone tell me where to access, for a fee or free, some sources of flyfishing clip art to stick in the corners of my newsletter?  I would appreciate any info you have. Skip James Check out the Fly & Field web site for Dave Whitlocks Clip Art gallery. It is at "http://www.flyfield.com/clipart.html". I also found a really interesting site at the Univeristy of Illinois at Urbana-Champaign. It is from their Entomology department and has terrific insect drawings. Check it out at "http://www.life.uiuc.edu/Entomology/insectsgifs.html". Hope this helps! Steve

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I’m the editor (still wet behind the ears!) of my TU Chapter’s newsletter.  Can anyone tell me where to access, for a fee or free, some sources of flyfishing clip art to stick in the corners of my newsletter?  I would appreciate any info you have. Skip James

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I’m the editor (still wet behind the ears!) of my TU Chapter’s newsletter.  Can anyone tell me where to access, for a fee or free, some sources of flyfishing clip art to stick in the corners of my newsletter?  I would appreciate any info you have. Skip James

Check out the Fly & Field web site for Dave Whitlocks Clip Art gallery. It is at "http://www.flyfield.com/clipart.html". I also found a really interesting site at the Univeristy of Illinois at Urbana-Champaign. It is from their Entomology department and has terrific insect drawings. Check it out at "http://www.life.uiuc.edu/Entomology/insectsgifs.html". Hope this helps! Steve

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