Question:

– half-assed spey – if the current is moving to left to right (for a right hander) drag the rig up in front of you with the rod parallel to the water then raise the rod, make the typical spey "D" loop behind you and out it goes.

Peter, could you explain this a bit more?  I’ve heard of spey casting but I don’t really know what it involves, but I’d like to try what you’re saying. — Regards, Jeff Before you buy.

Response:

When I’m casting really heavy rigs, like for steelhead, I let the backcast drop into the water behind me and let the current straighten the line out. Then I just lob the rig upstream.

I had to do that with the "bead ‘n’ bunny" rig I talked about earlier. It never gets pretty looking, but if you don’t shoot a little line as well like you mentioned earlier, it *feels* absolutely horrible. — Regards, Jeff Before you buy.

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Bruiserman writes: I get that "bounce" effect, especially on the forward cast, whenever i cast a little lead.  All of my rods are moderate action and i don’t throw anything like a tight loop.  Sometimes my flies even bounce back at me

…in which case, you are approaching George Harvey’s preferred nymph presentation, which he calls a tuck cast. The principle is: overcast the forward pitch upstream, dropping the rod tip at the end, resulting in this bounce effect. You thereby get the weight(nymphs,etc) to strike water first and start to sink, with the floating part of the rig piled up on the water. Then, when the nymph drifts downstream, it does so with far less drag and covers the absolute bottom more effectively. Control of this technique takes lots of practice(I pull it off gracefully perhaps one time in three tries), but does allow an upstream nymph to fish through a lot of water.                              Tom Littleton

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On another topic entirely, I was fishing down at the lake the other day for carp and was dropping in a #12 cracked corn fly made with yellow chenele and copper wire.  Couldn’t keep the LARGE bluegill off the darn thing!  We’re talking bluegill measured by weight not relationship to hand size. — Wayne To Fish is Human…To Release Divine!

Sounds so simple even I can tie it. I will tie up a dozen tonight. Ought to work great on my G-series 2 weight rod. Big Dale – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text –

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Wish i had a video of these techniques because my St. Croix 14 foot rod arrived yesterday and I am trying to figure out how to cast with it.

Watcha’ gonna’ do with that bad boy, BD? — Charlie…

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—

Check out www.Billysandifer.com to get a few ideas. This guy guides on South Padre Island and does the surf thing by guiding clients out of an old Surburban. He finds that the door hinges wear out first on his trucks.This guy is no where near the lunatic fringe…he is way past the fringe. He likes the two-handed rods for casting 100 feet into 40 mph winds that are common. His personal record in a 740 pound shark, but one of his clients beat that by 80 or 90 pounds. I just think it would be a good excuse to learn how to play with a two handed rod. Big Dale

Response:

— Check out www.Billysandifer.com to get a few ideas. This guy guides on South Padre Island and does the surf thing by guiding clients out of an old Surburban. He finds that the door hinges wear out first on his trucks.This guy is no where near the lunatic fringe…he is way past the fringe. He likes the two-handed rods for casting 100 feet into 40 mph winds that are common. His personal record in a 740 pound shark, but one of his clients beat that by 80 or 90 pounds. I just think it would be a good excuse to learn how to play with a two handed rod.

Barbed or barbless hooks? <g — Charlie…

Response:

Big Dale, On another topic entirely, I was fishing down at the lake the other day for carp and was dropping in a #12 cracked corn fly made with yellow chenele and copper wire.  Couldn’t keep the LARGE bluegill off the darn thing!  We’re talking bluegill measured by weight not relationship to hand size. — Wayne To Fish is Human…To Release Divine!

Response:

A lot of people would call that desirable as it allows the nymph to get into the water ahead of your line and start sinking more quickly! Smooth it out a bit and proclaim "I meant to do that" and that’s what a tuck cast is.  Lot’s of good fishermen do it.  Otherwise, you could either underpower your cast slightly, or leave a little slack in your line – let go of the line with your line hand and instead of snapping back it will shoot out a bit more.  Once in awhile, I can even practice what I preach, so it can’t be too hard That’s actually a casting question that I wanted to ask here.  I get that "bounce" effect, especially on the forward cast, whenever i cast a little lead.  All of my rods are moderate action and i don’t throw anything like a tight loop.  Sometimes my flies even bounce back at me a little.  What’s the easiest way to moderate or fix this casting problem?  (I usually use a DT line if that matters)  I’d let up a little but i’m usually trying to throw the whole mess (the indicator, lead, and two fly setup jeffc mentioned) into the wind or something. Any suggestions?

– Regards, Jeff Before you buy.

Response:

the opposite way, drag the rig a little past you with the rod level then continue moving the rod tip behind, pickup and drag the rig in the air in half circle then out with the rod vertical.  It’s easier to do than explain.

Wish i had a video of these techniques because my St. Croix 14 foot rod arrived yesterday and I am trying to figure out how to cast with it. Big Dale – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text –

Response:

the opposite way, drag the rig a little past you with the rod level then continue moving the rod tip behind, pickup and drag the rig in the air in half circle then out with the rod vertical.  It’s easier to do than explain. Wish i had a video of these techniques because my St. Croix 14 foot rod arrived yesterday and I am trying to figure out how to cast with it. Big Dale

man, you finally gotta rod that matches your moniker.  congrats. The best explanation I’ve seen so far is Mike Maxwell’s "The Art & Science of Spey Casting." Really, the main difference between roll casting and spey casting shows up in the forward loop.  The roll cast rolls off the water where the spey cast looks like a regular forward loop from an overhead cast. Without gettting fancy, go out to a pond and roll cast.  After you’ve got a rhythm going, then add an upward push at the end rollcast power stroke.  Instead of a rollcast, you’ll end up with a forward overhead cast looping, assuming the timing works. drop me an email if there’s some things you want to go over. Peter

Response:

I think it’s because you’re usually throwing weight, and a fast action rod isn’t good for that. It generates shocks in the line when the weight reaches the end of forward or backward cast.

That’s actually a casting question that I wanted to ask here.  I get that "bounce" effect, especially on the forward cast, whenever i cast a little lead.  All of my rods are moderate action and i don’t throw anything like a tight loop.  Sometimes my flies even bounce back at me a little.  What’s the easiest way to moderate or fix this casting problem?  (I usually use a DT line if that matters)  I’d let up a little but i’m usually trying to throw the whole mess (the indicator, lead, and two fly setup jeffc mentioned) into the wind or something. Any suggestions? bruiser Before you buy.

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I think it’s because you’re usually throwing weight, and a fast action rod isn’t good for that. It generates shocks in the line when the weight reaches the end of forward or backward cast. That’s actually a casting question that I wanted to ask here.  I get that "bounce" effect, especially on the forward cast, whenever i cast a little lead.  All of my rods are moderate action and i don’t throw anything like a tight loop.  Sometimes my flies even bounce back at me a little.  What’s the easiest way to moderate or fix this casting problem?  (I usually use a DT line if that matters)  I’d let up a little but i’m usually trying to throw the whole mess (the indicator, lead, and two fly setup jeffc mentioned) into the wind or something. Any suggestions?

Try shooting some line. — visit my web site: http://home.earthlink.net/~royalwulff/ something bogus to avoid spam)

Response:

That’s actually a casting question that I wanted to ask here.  I get that "bounce" effect, especially on the forward cast, whenever i cast a little lead.

I’ve been practicing the Lefty technique of swinging the backcast around behind you (in a clockwise motion for right handed casters) rather than pulling the line straight back. The forward cast is just like normal except you aim high. I’ve seen people who use this technique with streamers and it’s pretty impressive. I’m still working on the form, but I do get less bounce that’s for sure. I can now cast heavy streamers 15′ instead of 10′ –Steve

Response:

I’ve been practicing the Lefty technique of swinging the backcast around behind you (in a clockwise motion for right handed casters) rather than pulling the line straight back. The forward cast is just like normal except you aim high. I’ve seen people who use this technique with streamers and it’s pretty impressive. I’m still working on the form, but I do get less bounce that’s for sure. I can now cast heavy streamers 15′ instead of 10′ –Steve

Typical overhead casting is usually not a good idea with lead and weighted flies anyway.  I use a number of different casts, rarely overhead, when nymphing.  No matter what method, I always keep the loops wide open and yes, I prefer a slower rod for this. – upstream lob – just let the rig run straight downstream at the end of the drift then in one motion, pick it up and lay it out upstream. – half-assed spey – if the current is moving to left to right (for a right hander) drag the rig up in front of you with the rod parallel to the water then raise the rod, make the typical spey "D" loop behind you and out it goes. – circle or half a half-assed spey – with the current going the opposite way, drag the rig a little past you with the rod level then continue moving the rod tip behind, pickup and drag the rig in the air in half circle then out with the rod vertical.  It’s easier to do than explain.

Response:

I’ve been practicing the Lefty technique of swinging the backcast around behind you (in a clockwise motion for right handed casters) rather than pulling the line straight back. The forward cast is just like normal except you aim high. I’ve seen people who use this technique with streamers and it’s pretty impressive. I’m still working on the form, but I do get less bounce that’s for sure. I can now cast heavy streamers 15′ instead of 10′

When I’m casting really heavy rigs, like for steelhead, I let the backcast drop into the water behind me and let the current straighten the line out. Then I just lob the rig upstream. — visit my web site: http://home.earthlink.net/~royalwulff/ something bogus to avoid spam)

Response:

– half-assed spey – if the current is moving to left to right (for a right hander) drag the rig up in front of you with the rod parallel to the water then raise the rod, make the typical spey "D" loop behind you and out it goes.

I had a guide teach me this one day when I couldn’t roll cast worth a shit (okay, that’s most days).   Not only is it a great way to cast a nymph & shot, but it looks damned cool too. Joe F.

Response:

Why is a softer rod better for nymphing?

Response:

Why is a softer rod better for nymphing?

No no Wayno, just turn and walk away… <g — Charlie…

Response:

Why is a softer rod better for nymphing? No no Wayno, just turn and walk away… <g — Charlie…

        your wisdom prevails, as usual, mon duc. wayno, who never enjoyed a sitting duck

Response:

Yeah, yeah, I know. Maybe nymphs would be scared off by a stiff rod? But really: seems that medium to slow action is recommended for nymphing, faster for casting (esp. into a wind, streamers, etc). Why? -A humble and ignorant supplicant

Response:

I can’t really put my finger on it, but…. Oh that didn’t sound good. The thing is, I have a pretty stiff rod now, and… umm… let’s try again. For one thing, you don’t really want an super-tight loop if you’re using 2 nymphs, lead, and a strike indicator.  Nymphing does not necessarily mean those things, but sometimes it does.  A less-stiff rod helps you open the loop a bit. A faster rod usually generates higher line speed, which some people find helpful for drying out a dry fly.  With a nymph or streamer, not only is this not necessary, but it’s undesirable.  I once saw a video where an expert suggested a tactic of letting your streamer drop and touch the water behind you to keep wet, thereby allowing it to sink a little more quickly when landing on the forward cast.  I’ve never tried it for fear of looking like an even worse fisherman than I am. Finally, and this is the part I "can’t put my finger on", but a stiff rod just doesn’t seem to give the best feel when detecting strikes or setting the hook.  If you are literally feeling the take with your rod tip, I’m sure your line would be too tight to the fish, but still it just doesn’t feel right to me.  Bottom line for me personally – I have a Loomis GLX I’ve been using for nymphing and I’m switching to a little more moderate action.  Even though I tend to like faster rods, it doesn’t feel right to me for nymphs.  I’m not an expert but intermediate – don’t know if that means I’m more or less helpful to you at your level. Yeah, yeah, I know. Maybe nymphs would be scared off by a stiff rod? But really: seems that medium to slow action is recommended for nymphing, faster for casting (esp. into a wind, streamers, etc). Why? -A humble and ignorant supplicant

– Regards, Jeff Before you buy.

Response:

Scottb: Yeah, yeah, I know. Maybe nymphs would be scared off by a stiff rod? But really: seems that medium to slow action is recommended for nymphing, faster for casting (esp. into a wind, streamers, etc). Why?

Who says they are?  I’m a successful nympher and use a Sage RPl+, SP, and a Winston LT (soft compared to Sages).  I find the stiffer rod makes casting (albeit short casts) easier with split shot and strike indicator.  It’s more of a lob.  Some would say that *all* my casts are like a lob, but that’s another story.  <g Dave LaCourse

Response:

Why is a softer rod better for nymphing?

I think it’s because you’re usually throwing weight, and a fast action rod isn’t good for that. It generates shocks in the line when the weight reaches the end of forward or backward cast. — visit my web site: http://home.earthlink.net/~royalwulff/ something bogus to avoid spam)

Response:

But really: seems that medium to slow action is recommended for nymphing, faster for casting (esp. into a wind, streamers, etc). Why? Who says they are?

Well there ya go Scott.  Some things have pretty much universal answers, others have as many answers as fishermen.  Best way is to experiment.  Cheapest way to experiment is to buy used, use it, then sell it and buy another.  Sometimes you can break even or even make a few bucks in the process. Regards, Jeff

Response:

The Winter 2001 issue of Flyfishing and Tying Journal has an outstanding 13 page article on nymphing stategies.  If you don’t get this Journal (1st copy for me), e-mail me with your home state.  They list flyshops that sell the Journal.   It is some of the best info I have seen on the subject. Dave L.

Response:

The Winter 2001 issue of Flyfishing and Tying Journal has an outstanding 13 page article on nymphing stategies.  If you don’t get this Journal (1st copy for me), e-mail me with your home state.  They list flyshops that sell the Journal.   It is some of the best info I have seen on the subject. Dave L.

It is well done, but I hear that the author only wrote it after spending a week with our Uncle Louie on the Rapid. Peter

Response:

Dave, As a newbie, nymphing is my next great challenge, since everyone seems to talk about how productive it is.  I’ve caught one (1) trout on a wet fly and one (1) trout on a dry fly, with several misses on each as well.  I’ve caught numerous pan fish on panfish/bass bugs. So, yes, I’d be interested in getting a copy of this journal. Thanks, Rob The Winter 2001 issue of Flyfishing and Tying Journal has an outstanding 13 page article on nymphing stategies.  If you don’t get this Journal (1st copy for me), e-mail me with your home state.  They list flyshops that sell the Journal.   It is some of the best info I have seen on the subject. Dave L.

– Robert Switzer        wk (732) 949-4942 Lucent Technologies   rm. 4J-263, 101 Crawfords Corner Rd. Holmdel, NJ, 07733

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -Peter Charles writes: The Winter 2001 issue of Flyfishing and Tying Journal has an outstanding 13 page article on nymphing stategies.  If you don’t get this Journal (1st copy for me), e-mail me with your home state.  They list flyshops that sell the Journal.   It is some of the best info I have seen on the subject. Dave L. It is well done, but I hear that the author only wrote it after spending a week with our Uncle Louie on the Rapid. Peter

Well, thank you, young fella.  You show me how to streamer fish and I’ll reveal the secrets of nymphing — this June, at Lakewood. Louie Dave LaCourse

Response:

Rob Switzer writes: So, yes, I’d be interested in getting a copy of this journal.

Hi, Rob.  I’ve answered you by e-mail, not knowing you listed your address here.   In New Jersey they list: The Fly Hatch in Shrewsburg (www.flyhatch.com) Orvis Store in Paramus (www.orvis.com) The Sportsmen’s Center in Bordentown (www.sportsmenscenter.com) Hope this helps, Rob.  If not, please feel free to e-mail me with any questions. Dave LaCourse

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Question:

Here is a sight that claims to list the "Deadly Dozen" http://www.islandroots.com/finecast/products.htm I posted the same q a while back and told all I was going to take a poll. Let me have a day to dig up those results. Jamie http://clik.to/flyfish – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – What are your favorite flies for fly fishing brookies?  I’ve had quite a bit of luck at times with muddler minows and a few other flies, but I’m really not an expert fly fisherman. What works best for you?  Which flies, and what type of presentation? — Richard Jackson Before you buy.

Response:

I always try to match the hatch. Watch what is in the air over the water or kneel down and grab some rocks to see what is there. Presentation: if you are trying to duplicate what is in the air use dry flies, in the water use wet flies – latter category almost always nymphs. WLM – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – What are your favorite flies for fly fishing brookies?  I’ve had quite a bit of luck at times with muddler minows and a few other flies, but I’m really not an expert fly fisherman. What works best for you?  Which flies, and what type of presentation? — Richard Jackson Before you buy.

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What are your favorite flies for fly fishing brookies?  I’ve had quite a bit of luck at times with muddler minows and a few other flies, but I’m really not an expert fly fisherman. What works best for you?  Which flies, and what type of presentation? — Richard Jackson Before you buy.

Response:

What are your favorite flies for fly fishing brookies?  I’ve had quite a bit of luck at times with muddler minows and a few other flies, but I’m really not an expert fly fisherman. What works best for you?  Which flies, and what type of presentation?

I try to "match the hatch" whenever possible.  If I am fishing for dinner, I will open up the first one that I catch and see what it has been feeding on.  I usually start out with a stonefly or a Royal Coachman.  As you probably know, Brookies can be extremely frustrating to catch at times.  If you get one to follow or even take a swipe at your bait/fly/lure and he doesn’t take it, leave him alone and come back later and try again.  If a brookie has found a nice spot in the stream, he may stay within a few yards of that spot for months. — "Our eyes and hands and feet will give us the same assistance in doing mischief as in doing good; but it would not therefore be better for the world, that all mankind were blind and lame.  Arms are not to be laid aside by honest men, because carried by assassins and ruffians; they are to be used the rather for this very reason." -George Campbell (1719-1796)

Response:

Question:

Just read an article in my local paper about the NY DEC stocker trucks dumping their annual loads of browns and bows into the local rivers. 8" one year olds and up to 16" two year olds. i welcome a discussion on this program. i’ve heard a lot of pros and cons on this issue. one point is that is provides a lot of fun (if you like to catch dumb stockers), and that fishing pressure neccesitates the stocking program. the counterpoint (which i agree with), is that the inferior stocker fish dilute the gene pool and compete with wild fish for food. the solution seems to be more no kill zones on rivers so the population is not deleted in a single season. i’ve seen this work on rivers in the west where i used to live, and the result was a healthy population of wild fish that were a little harder to catch, but worth the result. in the state of washington where i used to live, the state’s policy is put and take, and they spend millions of dollars and employ thousands of state workers to dump gujillions of fish into the state’s waters. in more enlightened states (MT for example), its been shown that reasonable management of wild fish can result in a plentiful and healthy population. personally i’m not crazy about catching trout with raw noses from living in such tight quarters in the breeding tanks. the wild fish are much healthier and prettier. comments and complaints please. stephen in ny

Response:

As a fellow New Yorker, I pretty much concur with Stephen.  With the vast financial resources of NY State, I think the fishery can do a much better job. While I’m strongly in favor of better stream/river management–a la "no kill/artificial only" to help build healthier and more ‘wild’ trout bases, I also believe that keeping some ‘Put and Take’ spots is critical.  NY should continue to heavily stock parts of streams/rivers near significant population bases where young kids can still have an opportunity to catch fish with worms and bring ‘em home for dinner.   This is what gets kids interested in the outdoors.  Sooner or later they appreciate the ’sport’ of fly fishing, just like the rest of us did, and don’t have a need to keep everything.   For example, I live in the Albany area.  There’s a ton of chatter about state of the Battenkill.  I think the DEC should stock the stream with healthy browns, and then restrict the ENTIRE river in NY to catch and release/artificial only.  Over the next few years, assuming people don’t keep anything, this river ought to bounce back.  Most of the Battenkill winds through very rural areas, so there isn’t a huge population base thats really affected by the change in policy. At the same time, the DED should continue stocking the Kaydeross and Geyser Creeks, understanding that ninety percent of those fish are going to be fried for dinner. The Battenkill becomes the classic trout tream it once was, and the Kaydeross is the stream we all grew up with… My two cents, but NY, has large opportunities for improvement. Pete

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Question:

Try Sunset crater the area if really nice, and if I’m not mistaken… It is where some of the Lunar Apollo astronauts trained for a while back in the 60’s. Not too far from Flagstaff either. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I had so much success in my last post asking for this info for the Santa Fe area, that since my travel plans have now changed I thought I’d try again.  I’ll now be in the Sedona/Flagstaff area for 2 weeks in mid-October, instead of the Santa Fe area.  While there I’d like to do some backpacking – I don’t mind wandering some reasonable distance from the area to do it – S. Utah would be OK, too, for example. Does anyone have any tips?  I’m interested in something physically rigorous and wild.  I would think that I’ll have time for a couple of trips in the 3-5 day range, and may have time for a couple of day-hikes or overnighters also.  Have been to Superstition Wilderness before, so some other recommendation would be appreciated.  Ideally, I could fly-fish there, too. Any advice would be gratefully received – thanks, all.

Response:

I had so much success in my last post asking for this info for the Santa Fe area, that since my travel plans have now changed I thought I’d try again.  I’ll now be in the Sedona/Flagstaff area for 2 weeks in mid-October, instead of the Santa Fe area.  While there I’d like to do some backpacking – I don’t mind wandering some reasonable distance from the area to do it – S. Utah would be OK, too, for example.

At Peak to Peak Trail and Wilderness Links (http://home.earthlink.net/~swfry/pk2pk/p2p.html) you will find 15 web sites listed for Arizona and 11 for Utah – each with trip reports and trail descriptions! Does anyone have any tips?  I’m interested in something physically rigorous and wild.  I would think that I’ll have time for a couple of trips in the 3-5 day range, and may have time for a couple of day-hikes or overnighters also.  Have been to Superstition Wilderness before, so some other recommendation would be appreciated.  Ideally, I could fly-fish there, too. Any advice would be gratefully received – thanks, all.

–      Peak to Peak Trail and Wilderness Links   http://home.earthlink.net/~swfry/pk2pk/p2p.html

Response:

I had so much success in my last post asking for this info for the Santa Fe area, that since my travel plans have now changed I thought I’d try again.  I’ll now be in the Sedona/Flagstaff area for 2 weeks in mid-October, instead of the Santa Fe area.  While there I’d like to do some backpacking – I don’t mind wandering some reasonable distance from the area to do it – S. Utah would be OK, too, for example. Does anyone have any tips?  I’m interested in something physically rigorous and wild.  I would think that I’ll have time for a couple of trips in the 3-5 day range, and may have time for a couple of day-hikes or overnighters also.  Have been to Superstition Wilderness before, so some other recommendation would be appreciated.  Ideally, I could fly-fish there, too. Any advice would be gratefully received – thanks, all.

Response:

12 Sept 97 To hike and include fly fishing, try the Lake Poweel area with a day the North Rim of the Grand Canyon is always spectacular. Normally, I’d say spend a few days in Supai, 8 miles into the Canyon with the only Native Americans still living in the Canyon.But flash flooding makes that a bad idea just now. You might give some thought to hiking in Bryce Canyon, Zion (though they might be having flash floods too), and through the Rim country in Sedona. Lots of variety and weather conditions. Usually this would be a great time of year to come here, but the very late monsoons have made every afternoon a potential thunderstorm nightmare. In fact, yesterday, NE of Flagstaff by 60 miles there were 4 funnel clouds spotted while 2 hikers were caught in a flash flood in the Canyon. Perhaps another month will bring some sanity to our weather. Have a great time. If you need books, maps, or equipment let us know. // – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I had so much success in my last post asking for this info for the Santa Fe area, that since my travel plans have now changed I thought I’d try again.  I’ll now be in the Sedona/Flagstaff area for 2 weeks in mid-October, instead of the Santa Fe area.  While there I’d like to do some backpacking – I don’t mind wandering some reasonable distance from the area to do it – S. Utah would be OK, too, for example. Does anyone have any tips?  I’m interested in something physically rigorous and wild.  I would think that I’ll have time for a couple of trips in the 3-5 day range, and may have time for a couple of day-hikes or overnighters also.  Have been to Superstition Wilderness before, so some other recommendation would be appreciated.  Ideally, I could fly-fish there, too. Any advice would be gratefully received – thanks, all.

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Response:

Question:

Hi, Does anyone know if the area near the Slide Inn on the Madison River is becoming multi-channel again, or is it just a large rushing river. Thanks, Bob

Hi Bob I’m basing this answer on two observations: When I drove by that section of river a couple of days ago of course it was running one large river due to run off. Last fall when I fished the area there were channels. What the river will look like after run-off this year is yet to be seen. If you want to monitor the stream flows on the Madison you can click on "weather & water" on my web site. Take care & … — Tight Lines ….. Al Beatty BT’s Fly Fishing Products On line catalog – tips & tricks at: http://www.btsflyfishing.com

Response:

Hi, Does anyone know if the area near the Slide Inn on the Madison River is becoming multi-channel again, or is it just a large rushing river. Thanks, Bob

Response:

Question:

As for me, a month ago I was fishing, with a Lazer line, that turned out to be a piece of junk.  The store that sold it to me (Kingsway Sports in Guelph) special ordered it in for me so I can’t ask them to take it back. It would be a good line, (it’s a WF5F) if it FLOATED!.  Unfortunately, it gives a great imitation of a sink tip.  I would really appreciate the name of the contact person at Courtland so that I can tell him how much I REALLY like their crappy products.   James P. Ward Twin Willow Farm Paisley, Ont.

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I just bought a new 5 wt. DT floating Lazerline (lime), so I’m kind of interested in this thread. I’m heading over to Europe and don’t want my line to let me down. What kind of line dressing have you guys been using or not using on your lines? The little pad that Cortland ships with the line? Something else? What type of soap are you using if you clean it with soap. I wonder if some it’s some brands of line dressing or bug repellants that you’re using thats doing the line in? Does everyone, that has had problems, have some other products in common? Ones that could eat a line! Maybe we should list the stuff that comes in contact with our lines? And how offen you clean it. Might get to the bottom of this yet. So to get started, I’m using the Cortland pads and have Cortland "XL" line dressing. Use Repel 100 bug spray. A couple of different brands fly floatant also. Don Burns

I use the Cortland pads with "Flot-Cote" and I never use bug spray on my hands. I also use a lot of Cortland products and I do not wish to bash this company at all. Sometimes things just don’t work out in the manufacturing process. After all, I am trying like hell to give those fish a real fighting chance (actually, they are doing better than expected) and Cortland has been there with me every cast along the way. Thank you all for responding. If they are willing, I certainly will have Cortland replace my line. Johnny

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Welcome to the Lazerline cracked line club.  I sent back 3 lines to cortland for replacement last season.  Just return the line to cortland adn they will replace it with another. Cheers gp : Last year I bought a 4wt WF floating Cortland Lazerline. After a fishing : outing this last weekend I noticed that pieces of the coating were coming : off. I have used it maybe on a half dozen trips. The "flaking" seems to be : about the 30′ mark on the line. My guides are fine. I didn’t mistreat the : line by wrestling in some hungry tree or anything like that. Has anyone : else had this experience with this or any other line? — gp

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– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Last year I bought a 4wt WF floating Cortland Lazerline. After a fishing outing this last weekend I noticed that pieces of the coating were coming off. I have used it maybe on a half dozen trips. The "flaking" seems to be about the 30′ mark on the line. My guides are fine. I didn’t mistreat the line by wrestling in some hungry tree or anything like that. Has anyone else had this experience with this or any other line? I can’t offer any help I’m afraid Johnny, but wanted to relate my experience to the audience : I bought a 5-wt Cortland 444 about 5 years ago and it is still going strong despite being used most weekends.  Showing a little memory now, especially at the start of the day, but an amazing line. I was chatting to the store owner who sold it to me all that time ago and he openly admitted that the new Lazer lines are noticeably less resilient than 444s. Anyone else ? Russ

Russ, last year I too bought and used a lazer line from Cortland and experienced the same problem. The coating on the line was delaminating from the core in a crazing sort of fashion. The line was a DT6F. I sent the line back to the company along with an explaination and they promptly sent me back a new line along with an explaination that went something like: "There was a bad batch of lines that caused problems like yours to other customers as well." Anyway, the new line has performed exceptionally well and the delamination problem has not resurfaced. — Lou Dutra Don’t kill your limit,…limit your kill.

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Don, This is a known problem with (some) Lazer lines.  I have spoken to a number of other flyshop owners and all have experienced the problem.  Some of these lines had problems right out of the box, others took a few weeks to show problems.  I would suggest taking your line out and practice with it for a while and then check it very carefully.  If I were you I would carry an extra (444) line on your trip. Sandy Lockleer Creekside Fly Shop, Salem, Oregon http://www.halcyon.com/flyshop/

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I have both a grey and lime green – 5 wt – and my experience is consistent with others on this thread:  the grey is cracked badly and I stopped using it after 10-15 times over a period of about a year.  The lime green is still OK, although without frequent treatments it does a great imitation of a sink tip.  Meanwhile, my 444SL’s ( two) have been great in all respects.  I should note that I bought both Lazers in 1994, so there may have been changes since then.  Nevertheless, I’ll stick with the 444.                                             Mark Faulkner

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Cortland seems to be having a variety of QC problems. I spoke to a flyfishing professional/instructor a few weeks ago that was an avid Cortland 444SL user until last year. He also observed the Lazer line problem with chunks falling off the line with relatively little usage. He mentioned something about the plastisizer being the issue in the formulation of the coating. While WD40 and some other compunds can damage coatings it appears this problem exists right out of the box. He also had problems with 444SLs which he once swore by. The most specific example: he had eight brand new SLs down in the Bahamas for a bonefish school that he ran. When he had problems casting one they switched lines and still had problems. To make a long story short, they ran all eight lines between two palm trees and took a micrometer to them. The results: no two lines had exactly the same taper! Not small differences either, some diamater changes took place up to six feet away from where they should have. His advice: stay away from all Cortland lines for now (or maybe forever) and keep using your pre-1994 SLs. He says Cortland has not been the same since Chandler left. Today he is using Mastery and Ultras if anyone cares. Tom Don, This is a known problem with (some) Lazer lines.  I have spoken to a number of other flyshop owners and all have experienced the problem.  Some of these lines had problems right out of the box, others took a few weeks to show problems.  I would suggest taking your line out and practice with it for a while and then check it very carefully.  If I were you I would carry an extra (444) line on your trip. Sandy Lockleer Creekside Fly Shop, Salem, Oregon http://www.halcyon.com/flyshop/

–

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The persons to contact at Cortland are Mr. Brian Ward or Tom McCullough at 1-800-368-7910. Hope this helps. Jack.

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As for me, a month ago I was fishing, with a Lazer line, that turned out to be a piece of junk.  The store that sold it to me (Kingsway Sports in Guelph) special ordered it in for me so I can’t ask them to take it back. It would be a good line, (it’s a WF5F) if it FLOATED!.  Unfortunately, it gives a great imitation of a sink tip.  I would really appreciate the name of the contact person at Courtland so that I can tell him how much I REALLY like their crappy products. James P. Ward Twin Willow Farm Paisley, Ont.

I liked Lazer line, but it turns into a sinking tip after a few months and shows signs of becoming a county road map. These phenomena finally overcame my stubborn attachment to their performance, and I gave up on them for Cortland’s 444. Frankly, now I don’t miss the Lazer line at all. Mitch Mulhall

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I would really appreciate the name of the contact person at Courtland so that I can tell him how much I REALLY like their crappy products.

Yeah, at least you’ll end up with a new line! =^) — CU, Jay Lee (Capelle a/d IJssel, The Netherlands)

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- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – writes: Last year I bought a 4wt WF floating Cortland Lazerline. After a fishing outing this last weekend I noticed that pieces of the coating were coming off. I have used it maybe on a half dozen trips. The "flaking" seems to be about the 30′ mark on the line. My guides are fine. I didn’t mistreat the line by wrestling in some hungry tree or anything like that. Has anyone else had this experience with this or any other line? Hi I sure have. Return the line to Cortland and they will replace it. Tight Lines Al Beatty BT’s Fly Fishing Products Bozeman, MT (96 catalog) I just bought a new 5 wt. DT floating Lazerline (lime), so I’m kind of interested in this thread. I’m heading over to Europe and don’t want my line to let me down. What kind of line dressing have you guys been using or not using on your lines? The little pad that Cortland ships with the line? Something else? What type of soap are you using if you clean it with soap. I wonder if some it’s some brands of line dressing or bug repellants that you’re using thats doing the line in? Does everyone, that has had problems, have some other products in common? Ones that could eat a line! Maybe we should list the stuff that comes in contact with our lines? And how offen you clean it. Might get to the bottom of this yet. So to get started, I’m using the Cortland pads and have Cortland "XL" line dressing. Use Repel 100 bug spray. A couple of different brands fly floatant also. Don Burns

I won’t be to worried about your europe trip. I have fished a laserline WF3F and WF5F for more than 6 month and haven’t had a proble= m but I know that the first generation laserline had this problem. If your dealer sold you a new one there is most likely no problem=

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My advice, guys. Save your money and buy a Cortland 333HT. You’ll hardly notice the difference and you’ll have an extra $30 in your wallet.

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Last year I bought a 4wt WF floating Cortland Lazerline. After a fishing outing this last weekend I noticed that pieces of the coating were coming off. I have used it maybe on a half dozen trips. The "flaking" seems to be about the 30′ mark on the line. My guides are fine. I didn’t mistreat the line by wrestling in some hungry tree or anything like that. Has anyone else had this experience with this or any other line?

Hi I sure have. Return the line to Cortland and they will replace it. Tight Lines Al Beatty BT’s Fly Fishing Products Bozeman, MT (96 catalog)

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writes: – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Last year I bought a 4wt WF floating Cortland Lazerline. After a fishing outing this last weekend I noticed that pieces of the coating were coming off. I have used it maybe on a half dozen trips. The "flaking" seems to be about the 30′ mark on the line. My guides are fine. I didn’t mistreat the line by wrestling in some hungry tree or anything like that. Has anyone else had this experience with this or any other line? Hi I sure have. Return the line to Cortland and they will replace it. Tight Lines Al Beatty BT’s Fly Fishing Products Bozeman, MT (96 catalog)

I just bought a new 5 wt. DT floating Lazerline (lime), so I’m kind of interested in this thread. I’m heading over to Europe and don’t want my line to let me down. What kind of line dressing have you guys been using or not using on your lines? The little pad that Cortland ships with the line? Something else? What type of soap are you using if you clean it with soap. I wonder if some it’s some brands of line dressing or bug repellants that you’re using thats doing the line in? Does everyone, that has had problems, have some other products in common? Ones that could eat a line! Maybe we should list the stuff that comes in contact with our lines? And how offen you clean it. Might get to the bottom of this yet. So to get started, I’m using the Cortland pads and have Cortland "XL" line dressing. Use Repel 100 bug spray. A couple of different brands fly floatant also. Don Burns

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(Robert Hergan) writes: My advice, guys. Save your money and buy a Cortland 333HT. You’ll hardly notice the difference and you’ll have an extra $30 in your wallet.

I heartily agree. I have used five or six over the years and have found them to be very durable and a great value. — Roger

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Last year I bought a 4wt WF floating Cortland Lazerline. After a fishing outing this last weekend I noticed that pieces of the coating were coming off. I have used it maybe on a half dozen trips. The "flaking" seems to be about the 30′ mark on the line. My guides are fine. I didn’t mistreat the line by wrestling in some hungry tree or anything like that. Has anyone else had this experience with this or any other line?

This seems to be a chronic problem with LazerLine. I have a friend who has encountered this problem with the ’slate’ colored LazerLines. In each case, he was able to return it for replacement. I have been using the ‘lime’ colored line for several years and have not had a problem. — Norm… San Jose, CA.

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Last year I bought a 4wt WF floating Cortland Lazerline. After a fishing outing this last weekend I noticed that pieces of the coating were coming off. I have used it maybe on a half dozen trips. The "flaking" seems to be about the 30′ mark on the line. My guides are fine. I didn’t mistreat the line by wrestling in some hungry tree or anything like that. Has anyone else had this experience with this or any other line?

Where were you about a month ago?  I posted my problems with Cortland’s Lazer Line and had a lot of dissatisfied responses.  I’ve had 5 lines in 4 years.  I keep sending them back and they keep sending me new ones.  My problems with lines are always the same.  Thet crack to the point of seperating, they are impossible to keep clean and they get tiny fissures throughout.   The consensus feeling is that the line can’t handle heavy fish.  One guy posted that he bought a line right before a trip to Alaska(?) and did not get in 4 hours of fishing (he caught several heavy fish) before the line was useless.   Take the line back to where you bought it and tell the salesperson that you want this returned and to give you a new one.  If they won’t do this, e-mail me back and I will give you a contact man at Cortland to write to. Good luck. — sjf muddler Reedsville PA "just call me mud…."

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Last year I bought a 4wt WF floating Cortland Lazerline. After a fishing outing this last weekend I noticed that pieces of the coating were coming off. I have used it maybe on a half dozen trips. The "flaking" seems to be about the 30′ mark on the line. My guides are fine. I didn’t mistreat the line by wrestling in some hungry tree or anything like that. Has anyone else had this experience with this or any other line?

Response:

Some of the early Lazers had this problem. I also had a problem with this – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -Last year I bought a 4wt WF floating Cortland Lazerline. After a fishing outing this last weekend I noticed that pieces of the coating were coming off. I have used it maybe on a half dozen trips. The "flaking" seems to be about the 30′ mark on the line. My guides are fine. I didn’t mistreat the line by wrestling in some hungry tree or anything like that. Has anyone else had this experience with this or any other line?

Response:

Last year I bought a 4wt WF floating Cortland Lazerline. After a fishing outing this last weekend I noticed that pieces of the coating were coming off. I have used it maybe on a half dozen trips. The "flaking" seems to be about the 30′ mark on the line. My guides are fine. I didn’t mistreat the line by wrestling in some hungry tree or anything like that. Has anyone else had this experience with this or any other line?

I can’t offer any help I’m afraid Johnny, but wanted to relate my experience to the audience : I bought a 5-wt Cortland 444 about 5 years ago and it is still going strong despite being used most weekends.  Showing a little memory now, especially at the start of the day, but an amazing line. I was chatting to the store owner who sold it to me all that time ago and he openly admitted that the new Lazer lines are noticeably less resilient than 444s. Anyone else ?  Russ

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 Last year I bought a 4wt WF floating Cortland Lazerline. After a fishing  outing this last weekend I noticed that pieces of the coating were coming  off. I have used it maybe on a half dozen trips. The "flaking" seems to be  about the 30′ mark on the line. My guides are fine. I didn’t mistreat the  line by wrestling in some hungry tree or anything like that. Has anyone  else had this experience with this or any other line?

Yes, Cortland did have a problem with a batch of lazerlines – Take your line back to the dealer or send it directly to cortland.  Cortland has been very responsive to resolving this problem. Sandy Lockleer http://www.halcyon.com/flyshop/ Creekside Fly shop Salem, Oregon

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Question:

Why not deal with a local fly shop. That way you get personal service and help the local economy. You never know what the loss of a local shop means until you lose one that has been undercut on prices by one of the large mail order chains. I dont own a shop but our area recently lost one and now every one realises what we had but have now lost. Jack

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This is gonna sound like a minor problem, given everything else we have to deal with. But ya know how a little something, if left to it’s own accord, tends to grow and gnaw at you, just bugging the crap out of you until you have to bitch to somebody. Last year around this time, I called L.L. Bean’s 800 number and asked for their fly fishing catalog. They said they would send it when it was done. Couple months later, nothing, so I called again. "Oh sure, send it right out." Few more months…nothing. So I filled out a form from a magazine. Nothing. Month later, sent my own postcard requesting the catalog. Month or so, nothing. Called again. "Gee, don’t know what the problem is. We’ll get one right out to you." Needless to say it’s one year on, and I’ve received every stinking catalog those people put out except for the one I want. At this point I’m disinclined to buy from them, I just want the catalog to chalk up a moral victory, and add it to my growing collection. Have I done something wrong? Am I not the L.L. Bean type and they know it? Have they checked my credit rating before sending the catalog? Has anyone else had this problem? Does anyone know anybody at L.L. Bean with some weight? Thanks for letting me waste bandwidth. I do feel much better Roger Backlar

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Question:

A couple of years ago a group of us fished Boca Grande and we used a variety of guides.  By far the best one was Chris Klingel – I still have his card and the number is (813) 964-2165.  Last year I saw him on one of the flyfishing shows as the guide so he’s probably well sought after. Enjoy, it’s great fishing. David  

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Question:

I have an upcoming business trip to Ann Arbor, MI (May 22-26) and am wondering whether to bring the rod…..   Can anybody on the net suggest some nice trout waters within a 2 hours radius of Ann Arbor?  (Thanks, but the Au Sable is too far away, some other time perhaps) Perhaps also a Ann Arbor fly shop? If I get some suggestions, I’d stay an extra day…. Please email, thanks, -PWM Nat’l Center for Atmos Research    voice:  (303) 497-1293 Scientific Computing Division     Consulting Office

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Fly-sishing for trout is out if you are looking to fish in a two hour radius of Ann Arbor.   If you want to fly-fish for Bass in the huron River, call MacGregor’s out doors on Mainstreet (an Orvis shop) and ask for Mac Richardson. He and his son know where to fish for small mouth on the Huron.   GaryLarry

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Question:

I just stumbled into this forum and to my delight discovered it might serve my major interests.   FI, I just returned from a fine a morning on Puget Sound, where a friend and I flyfished for two hours to a school of coho salmon.   He h&red six, I h&red five.   I am interested in fly fishing in general, and about new prospects.   I keep a place on the Skagit River, a major steelhead stream, and I hope to make a contact with someone who might like to swap a steelhead trip with me for an atlantic salmon trip on the east coast.  I can be reached at this forum.

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I just stumbled into this forum and to my delight discovered it might serve my major interests.   FI, I just returned from a fine a morning on Puget Sound, where a friend and I flyfished for two hours to a school of coho salmon.   He h&red six, I h&red five.   I am interested in fly fishing in general, and about new prospects.  

You might try rec.outdoors.fishing.fly as well then.   — John Fereira Pleasanton, CA

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: I just stumbled into this forum and to my delight discovered it might : serve my major interests.   FI, I just returned from a fine a morning on : Puget Sound, where a friend and I flyfished for two hours to a school of : coho salmon.   He h&red six, I h&red five.   I am interested in fly : fishing in general, and about new prospects.   I keep a place on the : Skagit River, a major steelhead stream, and I hope to make a contact : with someone who might like to swap a steelhead trip with me for an : atlantic salmon trip on the east coast.  I can be reached at this forum. If you like this, try rec.outoors.fishing.fly, just next door (kinda). — |     Bob Lundy                   | |     Mississauga, ON, Canada     |

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                Yes the name is rec.outdoors.fishing.fly I read it everyday — "TEAM LIP RIP"   SARASOTA,FL                     BRING BACK THE GOOD OLE DAYS  

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Is there a newsgroup specifically dedicated to flyfishing?  If so, could someone post the name of the newgroup so I could access it.  I had thought that the group was rec.outdoors.fishing-fly, but had no luck with that name, or rearrangements of it.  Many thanks in advance. Steve C.

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Is there a newsgroup specifically dedicated to flyfishing?  If so, could someone post the name of the newgroup so I could access it.  I had thought that the group was rec.outdoors.fishing-fly, but had no luck with that name, or rearrangements of it.  Many thanks in advance. Steve C.

In theory "rec.outdoors.fishing.fly" is dedicated to flyfishing.  It is still young enough not to be caught in the endless debates that ultimately plague each and every group.  Join while it lasts… -tgades

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Is there a newsgroup specifically dedicated to flyfishing?

Checking the recent internet guides to newsgroups there is no specific group dedicated to flyfishing. But we flyfishers can use this or the newsgroup alt.fishing as a forum. FlyphishR, Havertown, PA

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: Is there a newsgroup specifically dedicated to flyfishing? : Checking the recent internet guides to newsgroups : there is no specific group dedicated to flyfishing. : But we flyfishers can use this or the newsgroup : alt.fishing as a forum. : FlyphishR, Havertown, PA I betcha the book came out after the newsgroup was created- that was about mid May.  It’s rec.outdoors.fishing.fly.  If you don’t get it, ask your site administrator.  You’ll get a much better response there than here or alt.fishing as to your ff questions or comments.  There’s a list-server too….

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