Question:

Does anybody have experience using sink-tip lines and weighted leaders?  Is there a difference?  I’m contemplating trying one or both to get down to the deeper holes yet still have natural nymph action. I don’t like rocks with fur and feathers attached.

I wouldn’t use a sink tip or a fast sink leader for deep nymphing, except on stillwater. Try using a really long tippet (NOT a tapered leader) below the indicator, assuming you use one. — visit my web site: http://home.earthlink.net/~royalwulff/

Response:

I wouldn’t use a sink tip or a fast sink leader for deep nymphing, except on stillwater. Try using a really long tippet (NOT a tapered leader) below the indicator, assuming you use one.

Charlie Brooks caught lots of big trout by deep nymphing with a full-sinking line. OTOH, he mentioned in one of his books that the technique isn’t very popular, even among those who have learned it well, because most fishermen don’t find it all that enjoyable. — Rusty Hook Laramie, Wyoming

Response:

I wouldn’t use a sink tip or a fast sink leader for deep nymphing, except on stillwater. Try using a really long tippet (NOT a tapered leader) below the indicator, assuming you use one. Charlie Brooks caught lots of big trout by deep nymphing with a full-sinking line. OTOH, he mentioned in one of his books that the technique isn’t very popular, even among those who have learned it well, because most fishermen don’t find it all that enjoyable.

My problem with it isn’t that it’s not enjoyable, Rusty. I’ll take an occasional big fish over "enjoyment" any time. My problem is that it’s much harder, if not impossible, to get a drag-free drift in moving water with a sink tip. In stillwater you usually want to put action on the nymph, so it’s not a problem. It seems to me like the best approach, if you want a drag free drift, is to use tippet all the way from the top to the bottom. BTW, I don’t claim to be any good at getting drag free drifts. I’m still learning, and probably always will be. P.S. I loved your retort to Phillipo. — visit my web site: http://home.earthlink.net/~royalwulff/

Response:

Does anybody have experience using sink-tip lines and weighted leaders?  Is there a difference?  I’m contemplating trying one or both to get down to the deeper holes yet still have natural nymph action. I don’t like rocks with fur and feathers attached.

Response:

Jim Benenson writes: Does anybody have experience using sink-tip lines and weighted leaders?  Is there a difference?  I’m contemplating trying one or both to get down to the deeper holes yet still have natural nymph action. I don’t like rocks with fur and feathers attached.

Either will get you down to the deeper holes, but the sink tip line will be more difficult to mend.  I generally use a 9 foot leader/tippet and split shot to get the nymph down.  However, if you are talking deeper runs, a 12 foot leader might be a better choice.  I try to keep as much line off (or in) the water as possible when nymphing – it gives a better drift and makes strikes easier to see.   Dave

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Does anybody have experience using sink-tip lines and weighted leaders?  Is there a difference?  I’m contemplating trying one or both to get down to the deeper holes yet still have natural nymph action. I don’t like rocks with fur and feathers attached.

I think that it’s difficult to get a dead drift, if that’s what you’re after, in a stream or river using a sinking line.  A sinking line is going to put lots of drag on the fly which can be useful for fishing streamers or in a FEW nymphing situations, but overall weight on the leader works better. Willi

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Question:

Hello! Anyone have any experience fishing in Yellowstone National Park?  Where are the good, relatively secluded spots?  What type of fly pattern would one use in the area in August?  My two sons (12 and 9) and I will be heading that way next summer, and any advice would be sincerely appreciated. -Don Sioux Falls

Response:

I had a good trip to Yellowstone the first of  August.  You have got to try the 7 mile hole – if you don’tmine a 5.5 mile hike, one way!   Check out a diary of my trip, with pictures, at http://fishing.about.com/sports/fishhunt/fishing/mpboards.htm – look in the "vacations folder" Let me know how you do! Anyone have any experience fishing in Yellowstone National Park?  Where are the good, relatively secluded spots?  What type of fly pattern would one use in the area in August?

Ronnie http://fishing.about.com

Response:

I only fished the Madison near the madison campground.  Caught one fish but was small.  A pointer on Yellowstone.  The only hot pools in he park open to the public are at the Madison Campground.  We motorhomed there (can not call it camping) and only found this out the last night. Bill

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Hello! Anyone have any experience fishing in Yellowstone National Park?  Where are the good, relatively secluded spots?  What type of fly pattern would one use in the area in August?  My two sons (12 and 9) and I will be heading that way next summer, and any advice would be sincerely appreciated. -Don Sioux Falls

Response:

Hello! Anyone have any experience fishing in Yellowstone National Park? Where are the good, relatively secluded spots?  What type of fly pattern would one use in the area in August?  My two sons (12 and 9) and I will be heading that way next summer, and any advice would be sincerely appreciated. -Don Sioux Falls

DON, MY INFORMATION IS AT LEAST 30 YEARS OLD.  the hiway between west yellowstone and bozeman crosses a stream called Fann Creek….If you hike upstream untill there is  no sign of humans being there and were very careful about exposing yourself to the clear deep water pools,,,,,there were cutthroat? trout to be caught with out end… Id ask at a local tackle shop about Fann Creek,,,it could be better now,  could be worse…   after all these years i still remember KW Before you buy.

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Question:

Observations are exactly what I’m looking for and I appreciate yours. How did you find the rod builder and what made you decide to go with them vs. others?

Ian:  I’ve purchased two custom rods.  One from a local guy I knew, who did really nice work.  The other was to support a TU fundraiser – but it was also a beautiful rod that I would have purchased anyway, even though I didn’t know the craftsman.  For the price, I don’t think you can ever surpass a custom rod by a quality builder, which is why I would buy one again. mark faulkner

Response:

Observations are exactly what I’m looking for and I appreciate yours. How did you find the rod builder and what made you decide to go with them vs. others

In my case the rod builder is a member of our local flyfishing club.I had seen his work and I liked it so I went with him as a rodbuilder. Big Dale

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Well…to be honest ALL my rods are custom rods.  I build them myself. It costs considerably less.  If people only knew how EASY it was to build good rods, and how much less expensive, there would be a lot fewer commercial rods being sold. The only reasons I would by a custom rod are: 1) they are a technology I cannot build (like bamboo) 2) I know the builder and want a keepsake 3) the builder does something particularly artful (like fancy threadwork) and I have more money than I know what do to with — James A. Foster                                Assoc. Prof Center for Secure & Dependable Computing/SCI   U. of Idaho http://www.cs.uidaho.edu/~foster              208.885.7062 pgp key at: ftp://ftp.cs.uidaho.edu/pub/foster/pgp-key.asc

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SNIP . I won’t turn this into a commercial post by hawking my wares

SNIP So….get any inquiries . . .? john

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A couple of things. Are you referring to ‘hand built rods’ or rods built to ‘custom specifications’ ?. I don’t mean to be obtuse, but some anglers have asked for more (or less) guides than the ’store bought’ ones. I have 1/2 dozen ‘hand built’ rods that out-perform anything made in a factory.  Spines are aligned perfectly, and guides are positioned for optimum performance.   But this builder designed the blanks, and tests each one individually, before wrapping.  They go as far as to hand turn the corks, and ensure the ‘foot’ of each guide does not cut the finish of the rod.  (lifetime guarantee, and they cost lots) Another company’s ‘hand built’ rod was so awful, I returned it within a month. Turns out, they can build rods, but not very well.  Others found 8 weight tips on 6 weight butts.   (If something broke, they took whatever piece was available, and put it together.)   Just because he could wrap guides on a blank, did not make him a ‘rod builder’.  And he claimed that he manufactured his own blanks.  Fat Chance. Just an unskilled entrepeneur trying to enter a niche market. Regards – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I’m a custom rod builder. I won’t turn this into a commercial post by hawking my wares but I’d like to hear some opinions on why you would or would not consider buying a custom fly rod instead vs. factory rod, or why you have/haven’t bought one in the past, assuming the price was the same for each. I’m just curious about the perceptions out there. Cheers, Ian McAllister Rodworks

Response:

I’m a custom rod builder. I won’t turn this into a commercial post by hawking my wares but I’d like to hear some opinions on why you would or would not consider buying a custom fly rod instead vs. factory rod, or why you have/haven’t bought one in the past, assuming the price was the same for each. I’m just curious about the perceptions out there.

I’ve considered this issue often and have bought from both sides of the proverbial fence ("store bought" and "custom"). What generally makes my decision is when I want a specific rod with specific components that I can’t get from the manufacturer at any reasonable price. So to my collection of lovely store-bought Winstons and fully functional if not as "pretty" Sages, I have a number of custom rolled rods built on IM6 blanks, and a salt water casting cannon custom built on a Loomis GLX blank – with ultra-premium hardware – and with threadwork and finish that’ll make you pee your pants… All of these rods came with warranty cards for the blanks and were built by either my dad or Dan Trela (a small plug for DT Kustom Rods)… /daytripper

Response:

I’d like to hear some opinions on why you would or would not consider buying a custom fly rod instead vs. factory rod, or why you have/haven’t bought one in the past, assuming the price was the same for each. I’m just curious about the perceptions out there. Some purchasers may be concerned about the warranty.  Unless the manufacturer of the blank is passing through its warranty (I’m not sure if manufacturers do that or not), the only warranty available is what you would provide.  To put it bluntly, if you skip off to Siberia or die next year, who’s around to honor the warranty even if you offered one?  The odds are much better that Orvis. Loomis, etc. will be around if and when you need the warranty.

I build Sage blanks and I pass on the Sage warranty card to the purchaser. I’m not sure about other blank manufacturers though. I warranty the rest of the rod and I can see your point on that. Cheers, Ian McAllister Rodworks

Response:

I also think that rods can be an impulse buy for some people.  Getting a custom rod made takes time. No instant gratification. It’s the same thing with cars, most people buy off the lot instead of waiting for a car to be made to their specifications. Willi

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I build Sage blanks and I pass on the Sage warranty card to the purchaser. I’m not sure about other blank manufacturers though. I warranty the rest of the rod and I can see your point on that.

Ian – I should add that I have purchased custom made rods – for the same reasons noted by Big Dale in his response.  My comments were not meant as a criticism, just an observation in response to your inquiry. Mark Faulkner

Response:

[SNIP] Ian – I should add that I have purchased custom made rods – for the same reasons noted by Big Dale in his response.  My comments were not meant as a criticism, just an observation in response to your inquiry. Mark Faulkner

Observations are exactly what I’m looking for and I appreciate yours. How did you find the rod builder and what made you decide to go with them vs. others? Cheers, Ian McAllister Rodworks

Response:

I’m a custom rod builder. I won’t turn this into a commercial post by hawking my wares but I’d like to hear some opinions on why you would or would not consider buying a custom fly rod instead vs. factory rod, or why you have/haven’t bought one in the past, assuming the price was the same for each. I’m just curious about the perceptions out there. Cheers, Ian McAllister Rodworks

I think as said before most really cannot tell what they are getting in a custom unless they have one in thier hand. You can go to any shop and take a look at any factory rod and decide what you like. As for custom well, unless you know of someone who has a rod from a particular rodmaker, or the rodmaker has an outstanding reputation, you really have to take a chance. Most of us who have really just started out as rodmakers know what that is like, most customers will inquire and are not sure. Most anglers really are looking for cosmetic quality in a custom rod, they feel if its custom it needs to be perfect. I agree, but most will not want to pay the price for the special attention to detail nedded to acheive this quality. So they end up with factory rod with poor cosmetics, then if they are not satisfied they can simply return the rod to the factory and get another. Now the anglers who are looking for performance more than likely will go to the custom rodmaker because they want a quality performing rod. This way they can relay information to the rodmaker and get a rod that performs to their specific needs. May be a nymphing rod or dry fly rod, in anycase they get what they want. Warranty is another issue, for most rodmakers its simply not reasonable to give a lifetime warranty on custom jobs. Some do, but I feel with the attitude of most warranty lovers, rodmakers will be repairing rods for nothing for quite sometime.

Response:

or would not consider buying a custom fly rod instead vs. factory rod,

I had a rod built for me a few years ago. I ordered the Scott rod blank from their local dealer and gathered the parts I wanted for the rod and had a guy build it for me. It ist one of their old style 8′8"`3`weight rods. I wanted a cap and sliding ring reel seat with a rosewood insert. Scott did  not make one like that and I hate the sliding ring set-up over cork. The guy did a beautiful job: I got what I wanted; itcost no more than a factory rod would have cost;and I could not be happier. It is still my favorite rod for fishing for my beloved bluegills out of a boat. I think that just about says it all….isn’t this what custom built rods are all about?   Big Dale

Response:

I agree that warranty and name are  strong selling points. I never buy a rod unless I have fondled it and cast it, custom rod builders are unfortunately not usually down the street where I can do this. Jim

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I’d like to hear some opinions on why you would or would not consider buying a custom fly rod instead vs. factory rod, or why you have/haven’t bought one in the past, assuming the price was the same for each. I’m just curious about the perceptions out there. Some purchasers may be concerned about the warranty.  Unless the manufacturer of the blank is passing through its warranty (I’m not sure if manufacturers do that or not), the only warranty available is what you would provide.  To put it bluntly, if you skip off to Siberia or die next year, who’s around to honor the warranty even if you offered one?  The odds are much better that Orvis. Loomis, etc. will be around if and when you need the warranty. Mark Faulkner

Response:

I’d like to hear some opinions on why you would or would not consider buying a custom fly rod instead vs. factory rod, or why you have/haven’t bought one in the past, assuming the price was the same for each. I’m just curious about the perceptions out there.

Some purchasers may be concerned about the warranty.  Unless the manufacturer of the blank is passing through its warranty (I’m not sure if manufacturers do that or not), the only warranty available is what you would provide.  To put it bluntly, if you skip off to Siberia or die next year, who’s around to honor the warranty even if you offered one?  The odds are much better that Orvis. Loomis, etc. will be around if and when you need the warranty. Mark Faulkner

Response:

I’d like to hear some opinions on why you would or would not consider buying a custom fly rod instead vs. factory rod, or why you have/haven’t bought one in the past, assuming the price was the same for each. I’m just curious about the perceptions out there. Some purchasers may be concerned about the warranty.  Unless the manufacturer of the blank is passing through its warranty (I’m not sure if manufacturers do that or not),

Generally they do … you should check with the manufacturer or a authorized retail dealer. You should note though that they will only warranty the blank and the warranty may be void if in their opinion the blank failure was related to the work done by the custom rod builder. RalphH

Response:

I’m a custom rod builder. I won’t turn this into a commercial post by hawking my wares but I’d like to hear some opinions on why you would or would not consider buying a custom fly rod instead vs. factory rod, or why you have/haven’t bought one in the past, assuming the price was the same for each. I’m just curious about the perceptions out there. Cheers, Ian McAllister Rodworks

Response:

Question:

I’m going to be camping and fishing at Lake Almanor this coming weekend (June 13 -14). Is there anyone out there who might be able to pass on some tips? Is it true that mid-June is the time of the Hex hatch there? Is fishing from a tube a must? All tips and hints are sincerely appreciated. Scott

Response:

Scott,     The lake is high and cold.  All the tributaries are pumping in snow melt and the laake is about three feet from being full.  At this point the fishing is slow.  What fish are being taken are full of midges  and a few Hex. nymphs they are grubbing along the bottom.     We normally look toward the 4th of July for our Hex hatch.  This is still a little early and the hatch will be delayed until the water conditions are better.  Try Yellow creek or look for some small streams, of which there are plenty in the area, to get some fishing in. Ralph Wood C & R Guide Service – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I’m going to be camping and fishing at Lake Almanor this coming weekend (June 13 -14). Is there anyone out there who might be able to pass on some tips? Is it true that mid-June is the time of the Hex hatch there? Is fishing from a tube a must? All tips and hints are sincerely appreciated. Scott

Response:

Question:

Hi, I’m also trying to get started into flyfishing….

I would remind you (for all beginners out there) that more important than the ‘right’ knot is a knot that you have tested before the fish takes your fly. Sounds kind of simple, but I have seen many people claim the fish ‘broke’ their line when they really didn’t check their knot before they started fishing. Also check your leader/tippet every 1/2 hour or so for abrasion. Mike mikedahl-at-nmia-com

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Hi, I’m also trying to get started into flyfishing and had a couple of questions about knots and such. 1)  What is the best knot to use when tying the fly-line to your reel?   2) What about the know to use when tying the fly-line to your leader.  Do you tend to make loops on both lines or connect them straight. 3) Do people use (i believe) tippet?  Then if so, can you tie tippet the same way as the fly-line to the leader? just curious…thanks Eric

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -Hi, I’m also trying to get started into flyfishing and had a couple of questions about knots and such. 1)  What is the best knot to use when tying the fly-line to your reel?   2) What about the know to use when tying the fly-line to your leader.  Do you tend to make loops on both lines or connect them straight. 3) Do people use (i believe) tippet?  Then if so, can you tie tippet the same way as the fly-line to the leader? just curious…thanks Eric

Eric, Too long of answers for these questions, pick yourself up a knot handbook at your local outfitter, many are pamphlet style and free. I have learned 10 to 20 different knots, use about 5, never paid for a book. Look for step by step illustrations, practice at your favorite sittin’ spot, not in the river. There are different knots for all of the transitions you asked about. Try to get 3M/Scientific Angler’s "A Fly Fisher’s Pocket Guide". This has good pics and tells you what to use where. Patience, Good Luck. TC

Response:

[snipped] 1)  What is the best knot to use when tying the fly-line to your reel?  

Don’t do that Eric!  Tie on some backing line first.  Use a grinner knot and slide it down tight before you start to wind.  To gauge how much line you need from scratch try this.  Get two reels!  (Borrow one the same as yours).  Fasten the fly line to the arbour of the spare or borrowed reel with a piece of adhesive tape on the end which goes nearest the fly (most lines have a tag of paper fastened on the end which goes to the reel, you want the other end at this stage.  Wind on the line until it is all on the reel.  Then fasten the backing to the flyline.  You choose how based on the type of backing.  Nail knot for monofil backing and solid braid, sleeve and tube for hollow braid. Wind on this until the reel is full but not so full the line will drag against the reel cage.  Cut off the backing from the bulk spool.  Tie this now to the spool of your reel that you will be using.  Wind on the line as neatly as you can pulling the line free of the tape.  Now you are set. 2) What about the know to use when tying the fly-line to your leader.   Do you tend to make loops on both lines or connect them straight.

Don’t do that either! If the leader is monofil tie a sacrificial butt of heavy monofil to the line using either a nail or needle knot.  Both are neat.  If the leader is partially braid then use the braid connection method of feeding the line into the braid and pulling tight then passing a tube over the loose ends of braid. To either of these sacrificial butts (about 2 feet long is Ok but you may prefer longer) tie your leader using a four turn water knot. 3) Do people use (i believe) tippet?  Then if so, can you tie tippet the same way as the fly-line to the leader?

Tippet is just the name for the last bit of leader to which you attach your fly.  It is made of monofil usually. just curious…thanks

Good idea to be curious it helps you get things right. richard

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – ….[snip]   2)What about the knot to use when tying the fly-line to your leader. I may be a little strange, but I prefer to use the "Leader Link".  For those of you who haven’t seen one, it is a little nylon sleeve and you slide your line in one end and tie an overhand knot and slide your leader into the other end and tie an overhand knot, then trim off the excess. What I like about it is the speed I can change leaders.  I carry pre tied leaders in my vest and when a tippet gets too short or I want a different leader I just clip it off and tie another one on.  I repair the old leaders in the evening, not while I am fishing.   Ernie Harrison I have found the system used by Orvis to be very handy. The fly line has a small loop at the end, as does the leader. You simply thread the two lines together. It makes it easy to change leaders without cutting, so your line and leader do not get a bit shorter each time. In theory a nail knot is smoother than this type of connection, but since the line-leader connection never goes through your guides and should never get near a fish I do not see what difference it makes. I am a beginner, so there may be things I am missing.

My line/leader connection goes through my guides quite often while I am fishing.  Granted, it doesn’t while I’m actually casting but if I’m fishing smaller streams I’m often on the move in between spots as much  I am actually casting.  Often the  terrain can be rock or I might have to climb over fallen trees or work my way through dense brush.  Winding in my line and attaching my fly to the hook holder makes it a lot easier to get between fishing spots without snagging my line.  When I arrive at the next pool it can get pretty annoying if the line/leader connection get stuck in the guides.  Often it can result in spooking a fish. After using braided loops under these conditions I’m going to switch back to nail knots or, the "superglue" leader/line connection that I had shown to me at the Delaware River Club by Bob Nastassi. Can anyone tell me if this loop system is unique to Orvis, or do other manufacturers use it too?

I’ve used the Orvis loops and another vendor as well.   Are you using just the loop or the braided loop as well? John Fereira Stop Unsolicited Commercial Email – Join CAUCE (http://www.cauce.org) Support HR 1748, the anti-spam bill.

Response:

Hi, I’m also trying to get started into flyfishing and had a couple of questions about knots and such. 1)  What is the best knot to use when tying the fly-line to your reel?   2) What about the know to use when tying the fly-line to your leader.  Do you tend to make loops on both lines or connect them straight. 3) Do people use (i believe) tippet?  Then if so, can you tie tippet the same way as the fly-line to the leader? just curious…thanks Eric

Hey Eric, I am just "emgerging" from the beginner stage. I have found these knots helpful: Backing to reel: Arbor Knot Line to Backing: Albright knot Line to leader: Nail knot or I prefer to tie loops and inter connect like the Orvis system.  You could also purchase the glue on end or the Orvis line with the loop end from the factory. When your leader gets shorter you can tie on 2-4 foot sections of tippet with a surgeons knot. The Berkley web site has some knots diagramed.     Remove "tt" to respond by e-mail (anti spam)

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– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – ….[snip]   2)What about the knot to use when tying the fly-line to your leader. I may be a little strange, but I prefer to use the "Leader Link".  For those of you who haven’t seen one, it is a little nylon sleeve and you slide your line in one end and tie an overhand knot and slide your leader into the other end and tie an overhand knot, then trim off the excess. What I like about it is the speed I can change leaders.  I carry pre tied leaders in my vest and when a tippet gets too short or I want a different leader I just clip it off and tie another one on.  I repair the old leaders in the evening, not while I am fishing.   Ernie Harrison

I have found the system used by Orvis to be very handy. The fly line has a small loop at the end, as does the leader. You simply thread the two lines together. It makes it easy to change leaders without cutting, so your line and leader do not get a bit shorter each time. In theory a nail knot is smoother than this type of connection, but since the line-leader connection never goes through your guides and should never get near a fish I do not see what difference it makes. I am a beginner, so there may be things I am missing. Can anyone tell me if this loop system is unique to Orvis, or do other manufacturers use it too? Peter G. Aitken

Response:

Here is a URL for commonly used knots: http://www.flyshop.com/tactics/12-96Knots/index.html There is a book Co-authored my Mark Sosin (I can’t remember the title, but it is a yellow paperback) that has every knot you could imagine with a strength rating. You may not (no pun intended!) need all the info it, but I needed the special salt water leader knots.  But then again, I am an Assistant Scoutmaster and we’re nuts about knots anyway.

"Practical Fishing Knots II" by Mark Sosin and Lefty Kreh is the latest version I have. ISBN 1-55821-102-0. — Charlie…

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You might try the "nail-less" nail knot.  I find it to be just as effective as the real thing and you don’t have to carry around one of those little tools (or pay for it either). —                                                            -dnc- – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – ….[snip]   2)What about the knot to use when tying the fly-line to your leader. Use the Nail knot, you can buy a tool now to tie it alot easier I use it all the time.It about $6 dollars

Response:

….[snip]   2)What about the knot to use when tying the fly-line to your leader.

I may be a little strange, but I prefer to use the "Leader Link".  For those of you who haven’t seen one, it is a little nylon sleeve and you slide your line in one end and tie an overhand knot and slide your leader into the other end and tie an overhand knot, then trim off the excess. What I like about it is the speed I can change leaders.  I carry pre tied leaders in my vest and when a tippet gets too short or I want a different leader I just clip it off and tie another one on.  I repair the old leaders in the evening, not while I am fishing.   Ernie Harrison

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Here is a URL for commonly used knots: http://www.flyshop.com/tactics/12-96Knots/index.html There is a book Co-authored my Mark Sosin (I can’t remember the title, but it is a yellow paperback) that has every knot you could imagine with a strength rating. You may not (no pun intended!) need all the info it, but I needed the special salt water leader knots.  But then again, I am an Assistant Scoutmaster and we’re nuts about knots anyway. — William J. Hobson, CNE,CNA Network and Computing Support Services Texas Engineering Experiment Station Phone: (409) 845-5808

Response:

1)What is the best knot to use when tying the fly-line to your reel? The best knot that I know of is the Duncan loop, much stronger than the Arbor knot which alot fisherman use. 2)What about the knot to use when tying the fly-line to your leader. Use the Nail knot, you can buy a tool now to tie it alot easier I use it all the time.It about $6 dollars Do you tend to make loops on both lines or connect them straight?. If you prefer, an easier way is just to buy a or make a braided leader loop on your fly line, then purchase a braided leader, and than all you have to do is add tippet.One thing with braided leaders, is if you get snaged on the bottom, the tippet breaks first, and you won’t wreck or lose your leader. They are good, there’s doubt, but expensive never the less. 3)Do people use (i believe) tippet?  Then if so, can you tie tippet the same way as the fly-line to the leader? From experience, use the Double Surgeons knot, it’s simple and easy to tie. I find that the best knot ever developed is the blood knot for tying tippet to my leader. I have practiced this knot enough so that I can tie it even when it’s windy on the stream. Alot stronger than the knot abouve, but try and find a knot that you can tie, even if isn’t the one’s I mentioned.Success starts here for flyfishing,it’s really that simple. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Eric

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1)  What is the best knot to use when tying the fly-line to your reel?   2) What about the know to use when tying the fly-line to your leader.  Do you tend to make loops on both lines or connect them straight. 3) Do people use (i believe) tippet?  Then if so, can you tie tippet the same way as the fly-line to the leader?

Every angler needs to know knots for these purposes: A.  Nylon to nylon:  the blood knot requires practice but gives you a nice straight line. B.  Nylon to hook:  the turle knot is not particularly strong but also gives you a nice straight line. C.  Fly line to something finer, e.g. backing or leader butt:  the needle knot does this well. Thus to answer Sherman: 1.  If there is backing under the fly line, almost anything will do. I use a large loop myself (which facilitates swapping lines and spools if you ever need to.) 2.  Double loops require learning one or two extra knots.  A permanent leader butt fastened to the end of the fly line by a needle knot will last almost as long as the fly line. 3.  "Tippet" is the finest part of the leader.  Since you lose an inch of tippet every time you change flies it gets shorter: and should be wholly replaced when it gets too short for efficiency.  If you can tie a good blood knot, you replace only the tippet, not the whole leader. — |  Donald Phillipson, 4180 Boundary Road, Carlsbad Springs,  | |        Ontario, Canada, K0A 1K0, tel. 613 822 0734         |

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I’ll be in Georgia for 6 days (visiting in-laws…) and would love an excuse to get out for a spell. They live near Columbus, but I generally fish only in Eastern Sierra (Northern California). Any suggestions? A good fly shop to call? Thanks! — Fish more, Fret less…

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I’ll be in Georgia for 6 days (visiting in-laws…)

In that part of Georgia you’ll only find warmwater fishing. Callway Gardens at Pine Mountain offers some great float tube fishing for large bream and bass. If you can get up to Atlanta, we have the Hooch; and if you have time to get into the mountains, there are too many opportunities to list here. Let me know more about your plans — maybe I can be of more assistance. — Visit Dave Teffeteller’s Fly Fishing Guides Home Page http://www.olfart.com

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Question:

Subj:  Upriver or Downriver casting? I’m a very beginner fly fisherman and I would appreciate it if someone could enlighten me as to the best way to approach casting in a river. Should I start up stream and cast down stream or start down stream and cast up stream. I assume that if I start up stream and cast down stream that I would continue to work the river moving slowly down stream. Could someone please make this clear to me? Thank you very much in advance!!! TCC

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Subj:  Upriver or Downriver casting? I’m a very beginner fly fisherman and I would appreciate it if someone could enlighten me as to the best way to approach casting in a river. Should I start up stream and cast down stream or start down stream and cast up stream. I assume that if I start up stream and cast down stream that I would continue to work the river moving slowly down stream. Could someone please make this clear to me?

Both ways are very acceptible and mastering good drifts on all compass points is a rewarding challenge. My only advise is: 1) learn a stealthful approach, you can get closer usually from downstream, but you would be amazed at fish pointing downstream because the current has eddied. 2) cast a short, light, controlled line with as long a tippet as you can stand. Good fishing. TimW

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With this thread, I am reminded of 2 things. 1) The Colonel 2) Sgt. York 1.  In "Streamers" by the late great Col. Joseph Bates.  He describes a     ‘fan’ approach to covering waters.  You cast a short line in a fanned     arc, increasing the line length with each pass to avoid spooking fish.     Same with an upstream cast.  Start short and only count on a good drift     the length of the leader + any curve or reach put into it.  Increase the     length of the cast each time. 2.  In Sgt. York, the deadeye would pick off the krauts in the back of the formation.     Like shooting turkeys, so that the ones in front would not become alarmed. Good fishing my friends. TimW

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Todd- When casting to a sighted trout, cast towards a spot a couple feet to the left or right of the fish and a several feet above the fish.  Just before the fly hits the water, give your rod a slight jerk to the left if the fish is to the right, to the right if the fish is left.  This will keep your line off the fish and the fly in his feeding lane.

What do should you do when casting to a blind trout? Mike in PDX "When the trout are lost, smash the state."                           Tom McGuane

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Thank you everyone for your tremendous help! I coudn’t have done it without you all. This is a letter I cc’d to a bunch of you who e-mailed me so I’ll just post it in its entirety here on the board. I’ll be sure to try out your casting suggestions in the future. Thanks again! Thanks once again for your fishing advice! I got one! The trout was about a foot long so I was quite pleased. After trying to tackle a fast-moving section of the river (with no success), I decided to check on a quiet pool that I knew about upriver. The pool occurs at an elbow in the river where the river suddenly drops to about 15 feet deep. While the surface appears smooth, the water is actually moving at a nice pace through the curve. At the corner of the elbow, a small jut occurs where the water is totally calm. I noticed some swirling in the quiet spot just off the moving water and then a little blip at the surface which looked like it might have been a fish surfacing. As luck would have it, I made a very nice cast which landing softly in the middle of the pool. Just as the dry fly landed and sat on the surface the trout took it! It was very exciting since this is my first fish taken fly fishing. I decided to let him go. Maybe I’ll meet him again next year! Thanks for your help, it really did make a difference. TCC Todd Cranston-Cuebas

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: When fishing upstream, always work upstream.  I always walk the bank of a : river to scope out an area I would like to fish, then drop into the river : below the area and fish upstream.  IMHO, if I spook fish from their holding : pattern, they move towards the center of the river or deeper, thus not : spooking fish above. A good way to see how fish react to the fisherman is to watch a friend stalk the fish while you sit on the bank.  I have seen fish run upstream this way smack into other fish. This gets them excited and makes them spooky. I have also learned that if the fish is left alone for a while, it may return to it’s origional location.  And then I have also fish do just what you described. Jon Porter

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…The best bet is to be sneaky, and stalk the fish just as if you were hunting them.

I’ve always thought fly fishing was more like hunting than fishing. -AR

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I’m a very beginner fly fisherman and I would appreciate it if someone could enlighten me as to the best way to approach casting in a river. Should I start up stream and cast down stream or start down stream and cast up stream.

For total beginners: 1.  Don’t wade unless you must.  If so, 2.  First wade downstream, fishing across the current with a wet fly or nymph.  The water’s tension on the line will help you control it. 3.  Then wade upstream, with a dry (floating) fly, casting 45 degrees upstream.  When you see a fish rise, cast one yard above it, beginning a bit short to be on the safe side.   Don’t cast straight upstream, unless it is unavoidable;  you don’t want the fish to see your line, and it’s harder to keep control of the line the faster it drifts toward you. — |  Donald Phillipson, 4180 Boundary Road, Carlsbad Springs,  | |        Ontario, Canada, K0A 1K0, tel. 613 822 0734         |

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- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Subj:  Upriver or Downriver casting? I’m a very beginner fly fisherman and I would appreciate it if someone could enlighten me as to the best way to approach casting in a river. Should I start up stream and cast down stream or start down stream and cast up stream. I assume that if I start up stream and cast down stream that I would continue to work the river moving slowly down stream. Could someone please make this clear to me? Thank you very much in advance!!! TCC

I would think a new FF’er would have better luck with casting dry’s upstream (easier to get a proper drift) and wets cross or down stream. Once you get your confidence up then experimentation is the best part of the sport (IMHO). Steve

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snip The only thing that still baffles me a bit about casting upstream is the thought of casting _above_ and _over_ the fish in lay. Would this scare a trout? I assume that I must cast above the fish and let the fly drift over it _without_ casting my line over its head. Are all of these assumptions correct?

Todd- When casting to a sighted trout, cast towards a spot a couple feet to the left or right of the fish and a several feet above the fish.  Just before the fly hits the water, give your rod a slight jerk to the left if the fish is to the right, to the right if the fish is left.  This will keep your line off the fish and the fly in his feeding lane. Also, if I decide to cast dry flies upstream, after I’ve fished out the area within reach, I should move to a new location downstream? Is this correct? My assumption is that any trout I might have scared would head away from me heading upstream thereby scaring fish away or making them hesitant in that direction. Do have this this right or am I thinking about this in the wrong way?

When fishing upstream, always work upstream.  I always walk the bank of a river to scope out an area I would like to fish, then drop into the river below the area and fish upstream.  IMHO, if I spook fish from their holding pattern, they move towards the center of the river or deeper, thus not spooking fish above. Bob Crossley — Bob Crossley

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TimW Thank you for your reply. The only thing that still baffles me a bit about casting upstream is the thought of casting _above_ and _over_ the fish in lay. Would this scare a trout? I assume that I must cast above the fish and let the fly drift over it _without_ casting my line over its head. Are all of these assumptions correct? Also, if I decide to cast dry flies upstream, after I’ve fished out the area within reach, I should move to a new location downstream? Is this correct? My assumption is that any trout I might have scared would head away from me heading upstream thereby scaring fish away or making them hesitant in that direction. Do have this this right or am I thinking about this in the wrong way? Thanks! TCC Todd Cranston-Cuebas

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WOO HOO!  This can cause quite a few arguments!  :) : The only thing that still baffles me a bit about casting upstream is the : thought of casting _above_ and _over_ the fish in lay. Would this scare a : trout? I assume that I must cast above the fish and let the fly drift over : it _without_ casting my line over its head. Are all of these assumptions : correct? Yes. IF you line a trout (lay the line on top of it) it will gennerally spook and run away from you. The idea is to cast upstream at an angle so the the fly comes in from the side of the fish. The only part to drift over the fish would be the leader. This is the old "traditional" dry fly approach. By using this method, you are coming up on the fish from behind. They face upstream all the time because that is where the food comes from. : Also, if I decide to cast dry flies upstream, after I’ve fished out the : area within reach, I should move to a new location downstream? Is this : correct? My assumption is that any trout I might have scared would head : away from me heading upstream thereby scaring fish away or making them : hesitant in that direction. Do have this this right or am I thinking about : this in the wrong way? If the fish is spooked, it will usually run away from you. If you are fishing upstream, then the fish will run upstream, and vice-versa. And it’s movement could make the other fish that it runs past spooky. The real trouble with fishing downstream is that we tend to cause the water to cloud up when we walk in it. That may put the fish. So the old upstream approach remains popular.  But rules are made to be broken, and I have had some of my best fishing by casting downstream. The best bet is to be sneaky, and stalk the fish just as if you were hunting them. Jon Porter

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Question:

Vacationing on Trinity lake this year in early july, first time in the area and hoping for suggestions                   thanx, Josh Sauter

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Vacationing on Trinity lake this year in early july, first time in the area and hoping for suggestions                  thanx, Josh Sauter

……they have the best fly shop and guide servise in that area. William Kiene Kiene’s Fly Shop Sacramento,CA,USA

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22:27:09 -0700 writes:

: :Vacationing on Trinity lake this year in early july, :first time in the area and hoping for suggestions :                  thanx, Josh Sauter Trinity Lake is difficult to flyfish, because of its size and depth. However Lewiston Lake nearby and the Trinity River (fly fishing only section available) are excellent choices. Also Coffee Creek near Trinity Lake sometimes has good fishing. Check with the Fly Shop in Redding CA. They have an 800 no. There is also a Trinity something flyshop which is quite good. I jsut can’t think of the full name. George Berns Trout Live in Beautiful Places

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I have to take an enforced trip to Madeira in January.  It’s been described to me as a holiday. Is it worth taking a rod? — Steve

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:I have to take an enforced trip to Madeira in January.  It’s been : described to  me as a holiday. : Is it worth taking a rod? : — : Steve No, Steve, this is terrible news. Drag your tired body down there. Never mind the gorgeous weather – you’ll survive. And the fishing – oh dear – but it’s not worth your time. It’s ALWAYS worth taking a rod. D.F.

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We are making small booklet that outlines the major fly fishing rivers and lakes in Colorado. This an easy to read guide that can take you from the airport to a beautiful Rocky Mountain fly fishing destination. Filled with maps, written directions, tips on flies, and even hints on other activities with this booklet you don’t even need a fishing buddy to help navigate.

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: We are making small booklet that outlines the major fly fishing rivers and lakes : in Colorado. This an easy to read guide that can take you from the airport to a : beautiful Rocky Mountain fly fishing destination. Filled with maps, written : directions, tips on flies, and even hints on other activities with this booklet : you don’t even need a fishing buddy to help navigate. Oh, great – just what I need.  More outsiders coming in to take over my favorite fishing spots Rick

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: We are making small booklet that outlines the major fly fishing rivers and lakes : in Colorado. This an easy to read guide that can take you from the airport to a : beautiful Rocky Mountain fly fishing destination. Filled with maps, written : directions, tips on flies, and even hints on other activities with this booklet : you don’t even need a fishing buddy to help navigate. So keep us posted. When it’s done, how do we get a copy? — |     Bob Lundy                   | |     IWFFC                       | |     Mississauga, ON, Canada     |

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We are making small booklet that outlines the major fly fishing rivers and lakes in Colorado. This an easy to read guide that can take you from the airport to a beautiful Rocky Mountain fly fishing destination. Filled with maps, written directions, tips on flies, and even hints on other activities with this booklet you don’t even need a fishing buddy to help navigate.

Thanks, Jeffrey M. Goodwin Ashley Laurent, Inc. email:       Compuserve           : 73473,3417       IBM VMID             : v1jmg at bcrvmpc2

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