Question:

The panga fishing is much more fun for flyfishing.  Cruisers are for offshore marlin and such.  We went with Beto Nunez on Pangas a couple months ago and had a grand time with Sierra Mackeral.  I used my 10wt becuase it could cast farther. This time of year the roosterfish should be available.  You’ll want the 10wt and lots of backing for these guys. They’re good folks who speak English and catch fish. Chas – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Hi Group! This message is also crossposted to rec.outdoors.fishing, and rec.outdoors.fishing.fly I’m headed to Los Cabos for a few days in early June with my brothers. Of the three attending, none are really fishermen. What would be a good experience for them- catching fish but not necessarily spending all day ion a boat offshore? Now for me: Can anyone define the experiences of  panga vs. cruiser? How’s the inshore fishing? Should I take along a 10 wt? Would it do me any good? I like to catch fish, they don’t necessarily have to monsters, in fact I prefer a light tackle for spirited light fish rather than cranking a coffee can with a behemoth  attached 10 miles out- although I enjoy that as well. That said, I know marlin and billfish are the real sportsmen’s game in Cabo – what else completes the Cabo fishing experience? We really only have two full days, so any suggestions are appreciated. Thanks Cow

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Response:

Hi Group! This message is also crossposted to rec.outdoors.fishing, and rec.outdoors.fishing.fly I’m headed to Los Cabos for a few days in early June with my brothers. Of the three attending, none are really fishermen. What would be a good experience for them- catching fish but not necessarily spending all day ion a boat offshore? Now for me: Can anyone define the experiences of  panga vs. cruiser? How’s the inshore fishing? Should I take along a 10 wt? Would it do me any good? I like to catch fish, they don’t necessarily have to monsters, in fact I prefer a light tackle for spirited light fish rather than cranking a coffee can with a behemoth  attached 10 miles out- although I enjoy that as well. That said, I know marlin and billfish are the real sportsmen’s game in Cabo – what else completes the Cabo fishing experience? We really only have two full days, so any suggestions are appreciated. Thanks Cow

Response:

I’ve been to East Cape, 3 times and have only used the super pangos because they have a canvas top and room for 2 fishermen. You’ll fry in the heat without a top. A lot depends on your guide, they all seem to want to fish for marlin, it’s the macho thing plus they like to sell the meat. I release mine. By the way, I haven’t fly fished there. I prefer to fish for dorado (dolphin) and I think it would be a blast to fish for them with a fly rod, but I haven’t been back since I took up fly fishing. I’ve caught rooster fish using bait and fishing deep. In the morning you can see them working bait fish in the surf, you might be able to do a little shore fishing for them. I tried with rubber lures and the needle fish tore them up on every cast. I don’t know how a fly would hold up. Your friends could stay on shore and get drunk, play in the pool, if your hotel has one, and snorkel. East Cape is more remote than Cabo with only fish camps and no shopping. Ron

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Hi Group! This message is also crossposted to rec.outdoors.fishing, and rec.outdoors.fishing.fly I’m headed to Los Cabos for a few days in early June with my brothers. Of the three attending, none are really fishermen. What would be a good experience for them- catching fish but not necessarily spending all day ion a boat offshore? Now for me: Can anyone define the experiences of  panga vs. cruiser? How’s the inshore fishing? Should I take along a 10 wt? Would it do me any good? I like to catch fish, they don’t necessarily have to monsters, in fact I prefer a light tackle for spirited light fish rather than cranking a coffee can with a behemoth  attached 10 miles out- although I enjoy that as well. That said, I know marlin and billfish are the real sportsmen’s game in Cabo – what else completes the Cabo fishing experience? We really only have two full days, so any suggestions are appreciated. Thanks Cow

Response:

Golf the Nicklaus coures. Go to the Giggling Marlin. Get a taco from one of the little places. Go to The Office and sit outside for happy hour. Huge fried shrimp and a bucket of cold ones to go with amazing scenery on many levels.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Hi Group! This message is also crossposted to rec.outdoors.fishing, and rec.outdoors.fishing.fly I’m headed to Los Cabos for a few days in early June with my brothers. Of the three attending, none are really fishermen. What would be a good experience for them- catching fish but not necessarily spending all day ion a boat offshore? Now for me: Can anyone define the experiences of  panga vs. cruiser? How’s the inshore fishing? Should I take along a 10 wt? Would it do me any good? I like to catch fish, they don’t necessarily have to monsters, in fact I prefer a light tackle for spirited light fish rather than cranking a coffee can with a behemoth  attached 10 miles out- although I enjoy that as well. That said, I know marlin and billfish are the real sportsmen’s game in Cabo – what else completes the Cabo fishing experience? We really only have two full days, so any suggestions are appreciated. Thanks Cow

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Question:

Hi my name is Jeff and I have these things for sale If you like what you read and would like a link to a picture please reply to sender 416.654.2612 To get your Canadian or US order in the mail or ready for pickup today..! SHAKESPEARE – $41.00 CAN plus shipping Factory  Balanced Alpha- KSP66 2M, Medium Action Rod,  6′6", 6-12lb line, twist lock and release reel design rod, & Alpha 2540 Graphite EZ Cast, bearing drive reel. FENWICK Eagle GLC EF867  Fly Rod, 7 weight 31/4oz. – $160.00 CAN 8′6"rod, includes protective rod sleeve and monogrammed nylon tubular case with zippered end  . TUNDRA Back Packs – $38.00 CAN two for $70.00 Water proof construction with water resistant zippers, large front pouch with latch and zipper. Bullet Shaped Lighters – $5.95 each or two for $10.95 plus shipping. (CAN) With key chain clip. Made from solid brass. These lighters are waterproof and have rubber ‘o’ rings at both ends. Refillable with liquid fuel. Very handy for emergency lights while hunting, fishing or hiking. Come in solid brass and chrome plate. Wildlife Fridge Magnets – Large lifelike animal fridge magnets. 3D design with airbrush finish. Items come in Bass, Pickerel(walleye), and White-tailed deer.  They Look so real on the fridge that you’ll be grabbing for your rod & reel (or your riffle) before your morning coffee..! $5.85 each CAN or  The Whole Wildlife Collection for $15.97 CAN plus shipping. Camouflage Suspenders – Button-0n type for pants or Clip-0n type for pants. 1 1/2" wide strap quality Canadian made. Real tree pattern. Blend in with the rest of your camouflage gear. $19.95 CAN plus shipping. If you like what you read and would like a link to a picture please reply to sender 416.654.2612 To get your Canadian or US order in the mail or ready for pickup today..!

Response:

Gee — camouflage suspenders — sounds like the perfect addition to my fishing wardrobe — I knew something was missing…

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Hi my name is Jeff and I have these things for sale If you like what you read and would like a link to a picture please reply to sender 416.654.2612 To get your Canadian or US order in the mail or ready for pickup today..! SHAKESPEARE – $41.00 CAN plus shipping Factory  Balanced Alpha- KSP66 2M, Medium Action Rod,  6′6", 6-12lb line, twist lock and release reel design rod, & Alpha 2540 Graphite EZ Cast, bearing drive reel. FENWICK Eagle GLC EF867  Fly Rod, 7 weight 31/4oz. – $160.00 CAN 8′6"rod, includes protective rod sleeve and monogrammed nylon tubular case with zippered end  . TUNDRA Back Packs – $38.00 CAN two for $70.00 Water proof construction with water resistant zippers, large front pouch with latch and zipper. Bullet Shaped Lighters – $5.95 each or two for $10.95 plus shipping. (CAN) With key chain clip. Made from solid brass. These lighters are waterproof and have rubber ‘o’ rings at both ends. Refillable with liquid fuel. Very handy for emergency lights while hunting, fishing or hiking. Come in solid brass and chrome plate. Wildlife Fridge Magnets – Large lifelike animal fridge magnets. 3D design with airbrush finish. Items come in Bass, Pickerel(walleye), and White-tailed deer.  They Look so real on the fridge that you’ll be grabbing for your rod & reel (or your riffle) before your morning coffee..! $5.85 each CAN or  The Whole Wildlife Collection for $15.97 CAN plus shipping. Camouflage Suspenders – Button-0n type for pants or Clip-0n type for pants. 1 1/2" wide strap quality Canadian made. Real tree pattern. Blend in with the rest of your camouflage gear. $19.95 CAN plus shipping. If you like what you read and would like a link to a picture please reply to sender 416.654.2612 To get your Canadian or US order in the mail or ready for pickup today..!

Response:

I know what should be missing…….this thread from the —  The RodMaker(aka)  The Shadow……hehehe

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Gee — camouflage suspenders — sounds like the perfect addition to my fishing wardrobe — I knew something was missing… Hi my name is Jeff and I have these things for sale If you like what you read and would like a link to a picture please reply to sender 416.654.2612 To get your Canadian or US order in the mail or ready for pickup today..! SHAKESPEARE – $41.00 CAN plus shipping Factory  Balanced Alpha- KSP66 2M, Medium Action Rod,  6′6", 6-12lb line, twist lock and release reel design rod, & Alpha 2540 Graphite EZ Cast, bearing drive reel. FENWICK Eagle GLC EF867  Fly Rod, 7 weight 31/4oz. – $160.00 CAN 8′6"rod, includes protective rod sleeve and monogrammed nylon tubular case with zippered end  . TUNDRA Back Packs – $38.00 CAN two for $70.00 Water proof construction with water resistant zippers, large front pouch with latch and zipper. Bullet Shaped Lighters – $5.95 each or two for $10.95 plus shipping. (CAN) With key chain clip. Made from solid brass. These lighters are waterproof and have rubber ‘o’ rings at both ends. Refillable with liquid fuel. Very handy for emergency lights while hunting, fishing or hiking. Come in solid brass and chrome plate. Wildlife Fridge Magnets – Large lifelike animal fridge magnets. 3D design with airbrush finish. Items come in Bass, Pickerel(walleye), and White-tailed deer.  They Look so real on the fridge that you’ll be grabbing for your rod & reel (or your riffle) before your morning coffee..! $5.85 each CAN or  The Whole Wildlife Collection for $15.97 CAN plus shipping. Camouflage Suspenders – Button-0n type for pants or Clip-0n type for pants. 1 1/2" wide strap quality Canadian made. Real tree pattern. Blend in with the rest of your camouflage gear. $19.95 CAN plus shipping. If you like what you read and would like a link to a picture please reply to sender 416.654.2612 To get your Canadian or US order in the mail or ready for pickup today..!

Response:

Question:

Planning a trip next Jan/Feb … would be interested in opinions on the top spots on South Island for good flyfishing … plan on doing a little guided and a little on-my-own fishing … love rivers over lakes always … thanks

Response:

Planning a trip next Jan/Feb … would be interested in opinions on the top spots on South Island for good flyfishing … plan on doing a little guided and a little on-my-own fishing … love rivers over lakes always … thanks

John, I’ve been to the South Island twice.  (You can read about it on my web site www.geocities.com/yosemite/falls/3363   with pictures.  The thumbnails will load a larger image if you click on them). There’s a lot to recommend about just about anywhere on the South Island. Most of my experience is in Otago (out of Wanaka) and Southlands (north of Gore). Absolute must stop is the Mataura river.  Can recommend guides to you if you email me. Michael

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I can recommend the Mataura River (the evening rise is spectacular), and also the Hurunui River if it has a good flow…unlikely at that time of year. Most of us Sth Islanders fish the lakes over summer, as the braided rivers are very low.  Try Lakes Hawea and Tekapo in Otago.  The West Coast gets most of the rain, so rivers like the Grey will fish well, but get a guide for these. Tight Lines Greg Christchurch, NZ — FREEDOM is neither a state of mind, nor a state of being. Rather, it is an essential part of every living persons’ existence

  troutnz.vcf

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Response:

Question:

I’ve got the reports coming in from the MassWildlife.  They are generally posted on Fridays, but let’s just say when I get them, you get them.  http://www.fishine.com — Mark Cahill Mark Cahill’s Fishing New England – Daily Fishing News http://www.fishingne.com The Internet Journal of Saltwater Fly Fishing – Editorial Director http://www.reel-time.com/

Response:

Uh, that url is actually http://www.fishingne.com Sorry! – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I’ve got the reports coming in from the MassWildlife.  They are generally posted on Fridays, but let’s just say when I get them, you get them.  http://www.fishine.com — Mark Cahill Mark Cahill’s Fishing New England – Daily Fishing News http://www.fishingne.com The Internet Journal of Saltwater Fly Fishing – Editorial Director http://www.reel-time.com/

Response:

Question:

Well, well, well, So what do we flyfishers think of the new (and old) warranties? Orvis                25-years Loomis             Lifetime $45 exchange for new rod Scott                $20 Lifetime Winston           $25 Lifetime Sage               $20 Lifetime Etc. etc. etc. Just wondering, Paul

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -Well, well, well, So what do we flyfishers think of the new (and old) warranties? Orvis                25-years Loomis             Lifetime $45 exchange for new rod Scott                $20 Lifetime Winston           $25 Lifetime Sage               $20 Lifetime Etc. etc. etc. Just wondering, Paul

Ha Paul, I want my money back. I bought a new outfit and went out and got skunked. I am going to take all these manufacturers to court. I think the government should step in and do something about this. You read the adds, buy a new fly fishing outfit, go done to the river and get skunked. Well, it’s not my fault, it’s my parents. They didn’t send me to an Orvis School when I was young. They made me fish with worms too. I think I will take them to court too. I think I will take the government to court too because they let me ’slip through the cracks’. I guess I am just a loser, but it’s not my fault. I think I will go have a tuna fish sand witch and watch David Letterman. Bill Kiene Kiene’s Fly Shop www.kiene.com

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got skunked. I – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -am going to take all these manufacturers to court. I think the government should step in and do something about this. You read the adds, buy a new fly fishing outfit, go done to the river and get skunked. Well, it’s not my fault, it’s my parents. They didn’t send me to an Orvis School when I was young. They made me fish with worms too. I think I will take them to court too. I think I will take the government to court too because they let me ’slip through the cracks’. I guess I am just a loser, but it’s not my fault. I think I will go have a tuna fish sand witch and watch David Letterman. Bill Kiene Kiene’s Fly Shop www.kiene.com

Love you Bill!!!!! You probably have more experience with both guides and lawyers, but I find it easies to find a competeant guide than it is a competeant lawyer. Care to comment? Big Dale

Response:

LL Bean still has their warranty policy in place… Lifetime satisfaction guarantee If you break the rod on a trip, they’ll overnight fedex a replacement anwhere in the country.  You return the broken rod at your convenience. All free. Michael – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Well, well, well, So what do we flyfishers think of the new (and old) warranties? Orvis                25-years Loomis             Lifetime $45 exchange for new rod Scott                $20 Lifetime Winston           $25 Lifetime Sage               $20 Lifetime Etc. etc. etc. Just wondering, Paul

Response:

You know, I remember the old days when if I screwed up, it was my fault.  I remember that I took care of my rod, because if I broke it, I was  out X number of dollars.  I remember a time when you were responsible for your actions.  I remember when I didn’t do well in school, it was my fault, not society.  I remember breaking my arm in junior high school and not suing the school.  I remember a time when if you broke something, you stood up like a man and admitted it…. It’s amazing how rods are now "accidently" broken as opposed to how many were broken BEFORE the new warranties. Just my 2 cents. Flyguy Bill Kiene wrote – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -Ha Paul, I want my money back. I bought a new outfit and went out and got skunked. I am going to take all these manufacturers to court. I think the government should step in and do something about this. You read the adds, buy a new fly fishing outfit, go done to the river and get skunked. Well, it’s not my fault, it’s my parents. They didn’t send me to an Orvis School when I was young. They made me fish with worms too. I think I will take them to court too. I think I will take the government to court too because they let me ’slip through the cracks’. I guess I am just a loser, but it’s not my fault. I think I will go have a tuna fish sand witch and watch David Letterman. Bill Kiene Kiene’s Fly Shop www.kiene.com

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You know, I remember the old days when if I screwed up, it was my fault

Geez, let’s not have too much pity for the poor manufacturers… The fly rod that you and I pay $650 for in the store, probably costs the manufacturer $50 in direct materials and labor.  And it makes the vendor probably 3x to 4x the profit per rod as a $200 rod. Some people probably won’t buy a super-premium rod because they’re afraid they’ll break it.  So by offering a no-fault warranty, the manufacturers get more folks to buy the highly profitable rods.  Really, it makes a lot of sense given the disparity between direct and retail costs. Especially now that the rod vendors are charging for warranty repairs (and offsetting most of the cost anyway), they’re laughing all the way to the bank. Michael

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You know, I remember the old days when if I screwed up, it was my fault Geez, let’s not have too much pity for the poor manufacturers… The fly rod that you and I pay $650 for in the store, probably costs the manufacturer $50 in direct materials and labor.  And it makes the vendor probably 3x to 4x the profit per rod as a $200 rod.

that very possibly true – check out George Gherke’s costing for his Bastard Rod – the fitting alone exceed $50. but, don’t forget it the manufacturer has to pay for a lot of other things beside direct material and labour. Anyone whose worked in a manufacturing environment can tell you overheads are very often more than direct manufacturing costs. Don’t forget as well that everyone along the way – the manufacturer, the distributor and the retailer all have to make some sort of profit. For most products of this nature the mark up on the rod( the difference between the retail price and the wholessale price the retailer pays) is about 1/3 of the price you pay. So for a $650 rod the manufacturer may gets $425 in revenue. Ralph H

Response:

but, don’t forget it the manufacturer has to pay for a lot of other things beside direct material and labour. Anyone whose worked in a manufacturing environment can tell you overheads are very often more than direct manufacturing costs. Don’t forget as well that everyone along the way – the manufacturer, the distributor and the retailer all have to make some sort of profit.

Absolutely true, but it’s also my point. You can make the argument that it’s reasonable for a fly mfg. to charge $650 for a rod.  (Hey, no one’s forcing me to buy the damn thing, and the market also supplies pretty good rods at every price point from $19 up).  Lord knows, a lot of vendors with fancy names and fancy rods are only marginally profitable.  But the time to make the profit is on the initial sale and, hopefully,  the next sale a few years later from a satisfied customer upgrading to the same vendor’s latest and greatest. Repairs are a time when the vendor can make or break customer loyalty.  It’s simply not worth getting into a debate with the customer about who’s fault it was.  <<Was the ferrule defective, or had it loosened up on me while fishing?  Is it the fault of the vendor’s poor tolerances that the rod loosened up and then broke at the ferrule, or my sloppy fishing habits, for not checking them every once in a while?  It just makes good sense for the manufacturer to fix a rod at it’s marginal cost, and not mark it up.  Even if it truly is the customer’s fault.  Hey, we all make mistakes. Then you can argue whether, if the marginal cost is so low (say $20 for a section of a $600 rod), does it make sense to bill for it, or do you get even more than $20 worth of loyalty and repeat business to do it for "free". I don’t see this as a biggee…it’s close enough to $0 that I wouldn’t care if I felt it were my fault.  Of course, if it were truly a mfg. flaw, I’d be pissed off about paying even $20, much less $50. Michael

Response:

Question:

You might try using a hypodermic needle to inject some epoxy between the grip and rod. — Ernie Harrison Remove NOSPAM to send E-Mail Selling my Fly Fishing Books Go to: http://users.ccnet.com/~emh – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I built a GL3  7 1/2 ft 4 wt last winter, but the cork grip was just a bit loose before epoxying it to the blank. The lower 1/2 of the grip toward the reel seat was a pretty good fit, but the upper half has developed a squeak.   The grip is not actually loose but it is starting to feel sloppy (for lack of a better word).  Any ideas about how to fix this problem?  The fellow at the rod shop just looked at me knowingly and nodded his head saying "yup, I kin fix’er fer ye".  Which means stripping off the guides and replacing the grip. I’d like to try something less invasive but can’t figure a way to get the epoxy between the grip and blank. Patrick  

Response:

I built a GL3  7 1/2 ft 4 wt last winter, but the cork grip was just a bit loose before epoxying it to the blank. The lower 1/2 of the grip toward the reel seat was a pretty good fit, but the upper half has developed a squeak.   The grip is not actually loose but it is starting to feel sloppy (for lack of a better word).  Any ideas about how to fix this problem?  The fellow at the rod shop just looked at me knowingly and nodded his head saying "yup, I kin fix’er fer ye".  Which means stripping off the guides and replacing the grip.  I’d like to try something less invasive but can’t figure a way to get the epoxy between the grip and blank.

The only sure cure is a new cork grip that fits correctly with no voids (empty space inside.) Glue is needed only in the thinnest film, to prevent the inside surface of the cork from separating from the rod blank at any point, under whatever stress, so that no void can begin.  Building with voids and filling them will be unsatisfactory in the long run.  The glues react to bending and stretching differently from both blank material and cork, and if more rigid than both will probably wear away the softest i.e. the cork, depending on blank butt stiffness and actual use. I.e. do it right or not at all, if you want to use this rod with pleasure and confidence for a long time.  A repair by injecting glue may be acceptable on a spare rod, used only intermittently, I suppose. — |  Donald Phillipson, 4180 Boundary Road, Carlsbad Springs,  | |        Ontario, Canada, K0A 1K0, tel. 613 822 0734         |

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[deleted] but the upper half has developed a squeak.

[deleted] Duct tape usage #309. — TimW – Halfordian Golfer Guilt replaced the creel…

Response:

I have successfully repaired a grip by doing the following: 1) Get some 2 ton epoxy glue. Do not use the 5 minute stuff or super glue. This glue will take at least 24-36 hours to completely setup. It usually comes in 2 hypodermic syringes that are fused together. 2)I put these syringes close to a heat source like a light bulb to heat the solutions which will make them less viscous. 3) Get a 10 cc hypodermic syringe from a physician friend, dentist or vet. Be sure it is clean. You will ruin this syringe.Get a 20 gauge hypo needle at least 1 inch long. 4) Mix glue while it is warm and insert into the syringe. 5) Insert needle into the cork handle and push the glue into the space. You may need to inject in several places. Put rod aside for at least 24 hours before you flex it. I have used this technique on several rods successfully. The holes made by the needle in the cork are small and have been no problem You can repair them as needed. The first time I tried this, I used a 2cc syringe. I was unsuccessful until I used the larger syringe with a bigger bore needle. The 10 cc with the 20 gauge has worked OK, especially after the warming of the solutions. Good luck and let me know how it works out. Regards, J.

Response:

Snip 2)I put these syringes close to a heat source like a light bulb to heat the solutions which will make them less viscous.

I think Jack means "more viscous" and he’s right, warm it up slightly first. You can also use a hair dryer.

Response:

With all due respect, the viscosity of a solution is, according to physic textbooks:  " the property of a fluid which resists change in the shape or molecular arrangement during flow"  As stated in my post, we heat these solutions in order that they become less viscous and more "runny" if you will. A solution that is more viscous has a greater tendency to resist a change in its shape. Water for instance, is less viscous than molasses. My two cents worth. Jack.

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More viscous, less viscous…. I got the point.  Thanks for the advice all the same.  I’m planning on giving this a try this weekend.  Will let you know how it turns out. Patrick

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All the advice is good. I’d just be careful that you don’t hurt the blank itself when you do this. I could imagine having the rod splinter at the grip from a flaw you put into the blank. Of course it would happen on the 24 inch brown. FlyFisherRay

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I built a GL3  7 1/2 ft 4 wt last winter, but the cork grip was just a bit loose before epoxying it to the blank. The lower 1/2 of the grip toward the reel seat was a pretty good fit, but the upper half has developed a squeak. The grip is not actually loose but it is starting to feel sloppy (for lack of a better word).  Any ideas about how to fix this problem?  The fellow at the rod shop just looked at me knowingly and nodded his head saying "yup, I kin fix’er fer ye".  Which means stripping off the guides and replacing the grip.  I’d like to try something less invasive but can’t figure a way to get the epoxy between the grip and blank. The only sure cure is a new cork grip that fits correctly with no voids (empty space inside.) Glue is needed only in the thinnest film, to prevent the inside surface of the cork from separating from the rod blank at any point, under whatever stress, so that no void can begin.  Building with voids and filling them will be unsatisfactory in the long run.  The glues react to bending and stretching differently from both blank material and cork, and if more rigid than both will probably wear away the softest i.e. the cork, depending on blank butt stiffness and actual use. I.e. do it right or not at all, if you want to use this rod with pleasure and confidence for a long time.  A repair by injecting glue may be acceptable on a spare rod, used only intermittently, I suppose. — |  Donald Phillipson, 4180 Boundary Road, Carlsbad Springs,  | |        Ontario, Canada, K0A 1K0, tel. 613 822 0734         |

  Yah, Don is correct. But if you want to a better half-assed job inject one of the new polyurethane bond  glues. These glues expand in cavities and fill gaps. About 10 years ago I used this type glue for mounting grips. However, the company that mad it took it off the market because of poor shelf life problems. Now there is a new generation of these glues, one Brand Is Elmer’s Pro Bond. These glues have a good open time and a tremendous bonding ability (ask Norm Abrams). Good Luck -Doug Easton

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<snip But if you want to a better half-assed job inject one of the new polyurethane bond  glues.

<rest deleted for brevity Yeah, thats me… half an ass.  My wife keeps telling me the seat of my pants look like a family of Bedouins have recently moved out. Patrick  (suffering from no-ass-itis)

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got to your local pharmacy and get a syringe (disposable plastic) and then stop by your local fire station or even a vetrinarian’s office and get a GREAT BIG needle.  just shoot that grip down in there full of glue…..    At least, it seems reasonable to me… – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I built a GL3  7 1/2 ft 4 wt last winter, but the cork grip was just a bit loose before epoxying it to the blank. The lower 1/2 of the grip toward the reel seat was a pretty good fit, but the upper half has developed a squeak. The grip is not actually loose but it is starting to feel sloppy (for lack of a better word).  Any ideas about how to fix this problem?  The fellow at the rod shop just looked at me knowingly and nodded his head saying "yup, I kin fix’er fer ye".  Which means stripping off the guides and replacing the grip.  I’d like to try something less invasive but can’t figure a way to get the epoxy between the grip and blank. Patrick

Response:

Go to a local woodworking store if there is one near you. They sell a hypodermic looking glue injector that is used to push glue into a joint to glue it. If there are no stores near you, go to http://www.todayswoodworker.com I believe you can order it from them. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I built a GL3  7 1/2 ft 4 wt last winter, but the cork grip was just a bit loose before epoxying it to the blank. The lower 1/2 of the grip toward the reel seat was a pretty good fit, but the upper half has developed a squeak. The grip is not actually loose but it is starting to feel sloppy (for lack of a better word).  Any ideas about how to fix this problem?  The fellow at the rod shop just looked at me knowingly and nodded his head saying "yup, I kin fix’er fer ye".  Which means stripping off the guides and replacing the grip.  I’d like to try something less invasive but can’t figure a way to get the epoxy between the grip and blank. Patrick

Response:

I built a GL3  7 1/2 ft 4 wt last winter, but the cork grip was just a bit loose before epoxying it to the blank. The lower 1/2 of the grip toward the reel seat was a pretty good fit, but the upper half has developed a squeak.   The grip is not actually loose but it is starting to feel sloppy (for lack of a better word).  Any ideas about how to fix this problem?  The fellow at the rod shop just looked at me knowingly and nodded his head saying "yup, I kin fix’er fer ye".  Which means stripping off the guides and replacing the grip.  I’d like to try something less invasive but can’t figure a way to get the epoxy between the grip and blank. Patrick  

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Question:

Hi, I missed the original post, but if it’s tailing loops, Dan is right on – the timings the thing. I would just add that you might also check that ou are indeed throwing the line "up and over". I find that many problems originate when a caster is just whipping the rod, rather than concentrating on putting the fly line up and over the shoulder, this ensures a straight take away, and does a lot to prevent side loops, which most people confuse with tailing loops. Just a thought…. Bill – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Dan, I have to say that your recent series of posts has been one of the most helpful things I have ever seen in this newsgroup. I’m sure a lot of us have learned from it, even those of us who have been fishing for a while (I can still tail the odd loop just fine after twenty years with a fly rod). We might even have to stop bitching about Orivs for a while… (-: Andrew Andrew N. Herd Associate Editor, Waterlog Magazine http://www.demon.co.uk/medlarpress/ writes: If the timing is bad, the line drops well below the plane on the forward cast before you bring it forward and it can hit the line.  Practicing your casting at times other than just when you’re fishing can go a long way to develop the sense of timing needed to correct this.  A practical exercise to allow you to see the cast without swiveling your shoulders (swiveling shoulders causes you to throw hooks in your cast) is to either use a side-arm cast, or angle your body at about 60 degrees to the target so you can move your head to watch the back cast extend without moving your shoulders. Snip                        Hope this helps,                                Dan Dan Gracia Orvis West Coast Fly Fishing Schools

– Bill Curry Tight Lines Guide Service Lockeport, Nova Scotia, Canada http://www.tightlines.ns.ca

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This is one of the best explanations/techniques I have heard for identifying this problem!!!  A couple years ago I was throwing tailing loop after tailing loop.  Since it was the end of the day and I had gotten up at 4:00am I just figured I was tired and decided to call it a day.  Just then (of course) a big brown noisily slurped a hopper and I decided on "just a couple more casts". I promptly threw a tailing loop AND tangled in an overhanging branch.  I snapped off the leader.  When preparing to tie on a new one I noticed a crack in the flyline about 2 or 3" up from the leader.  I trimmed the line, tied on a new leader and proceeded to make several casts that were better than most I had thrown all afternoon.  Now I have a technique for identifying the problem rather than lucking out.  Thanks! – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – writes: If anyone can help me I could really use some advice (and I really don’t want to hear anything about my socks not matching my shoes).  I consider myself an intermediate fly caster, but I occassionally will get a closing loop where the leader will actually wrap itself around the loop.  I read in a book that it can be caused by accelerating into the foreward cast too soon and not smoothly accelerating. Does anyone else have some advice? All opinions are appreciated. Hi Dana, Before you start worrying about your casting technique, take a quick look at the junction of the leader to the fly line.  If it is cracked so that it hinges instead of transferring energy smoothly, no amount of casting modification will make it work. Perfectly executed casts with this mechanical problem will throw tailing loops. If you’re not sure whether or not the junction causes a hinge, here’s a simple test: 1.  Hold the fly line in one hand and the leader in the other with the junction in the middle and about 6" of material on each side of it. 2.  Push your hands together until they are about 6" apart.  This should form an upside down "U"  in the line. 3.  Raise one hand while lowering the other.  This will roll the junction over the upside down "U" in the line. 4.  If it rolls over smoothly then your casting technique is the problem. If one side collapses instead of rolling over, then you have a mechanical "hinging" problem.  If you use too fine of a diameter monofilament for the butt section of your leader, that will cause hinging on the leader side – If you use too heavy of a diameter mono for the butt section it will cause the fly line to collapse.  Any crack that is serious enough to cause casting problems becomes immediately apparent with this test.  In any case the answer is to cut off the old junction and replace it with one of the right size.  You will often have to cut off a few inches of the fly line if it’s badly cracked. I’ll address some casting options in another post.                            Hope this helps,                                      Dan Dan Gracia Orvis West Coast Fly Fishing Schools

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Dan, I have to say that your recent series of posts has been one of the most helpful things I have ever seen in this newsgroup. I’m sure a lot of us have learned from it, even those of us who have been fishing for a while (I can still tail the odd loop just fine after twenty years with a fly rod). We might even have to stop bitching about Orivs for a while… (-: Andrew Andrew N. Herd Associate Editor, Waterlog Magazine http://www.demon.co.uk/medlarpress/ – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – writes: If the timing is bad, the line drops well below the plane on the forward cast before you bring it forward and it can hit the line.  Practicing your casting at times other than just when you’re fishing can go a long way to develop the sense of timing needed to correct this.  A practical exercise to allow you to see the cast without swiveling your shoulders (swiveling shoulders causes you to throw hooks in your cast) is to either use a side-arm cast, or angle your body at about 60 degrees to the target so you can move your head to watch the back cast extend without moving your shoulders.

Snip – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text –                        Hope this helps,                                Dan Dan Gracia Orvis West Coast Fly Fishing Schools

Response:

Hi Dana, It sounds like the old trailing loop syndrome.  We all start off with it as a throw back to the spinning rod. Your book is correct. I’ve taught many people how to cast and they all go through this problem.  Most seem to correct the problem once they’ve heard the problem explained in a way that makes sense to them. So I’ll explain it in a different way. Hold your rod out directly straight from you and push down. Notice the Tip of the rod goes up before it goes down with the rest of the rod. When you start a cast the same thing happens. If you apply too much power too soon the rod tip goes down before it goes forward. The line simply follows along going down before it comes up. Sometimes catching itself on the way back up. Any power applied before the tip of the rod reaches the 12:00 position will cause the rod tip to go down before forward. Therefore the majority of power must be applied after the tip of the rod has past the butt. Good Luck — William Endicott – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – If anyone can help me I could really use some advice (and I really don’t want to hear anything about my socks not matching my shoes).  I consider myself an intermediate fly caster, but I occassionally will get a closing loop where the leader will actually wrap itself around the loop.  I read in a book that it can be caused by accelerating into the foreward cast too soon and not smoothly accelerating. Does anyone else have some advice? All opinions are appreciated. Thanks, Dana

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Something that improved my casting was to convince myself there was no difference between the back and forward cast.  I started false casting 30′ of line and slowly rotated while keeping the line going in the same direction until I was facing what was my back cast.  When I could rotate 360 degrees under the cast and keep it going smoothly with tight loops and not shock the line or have tailing loops, my attitude toward the mechanics of casting changed and my casting improved. — Ernie Harrison Remove NOSPAM to send E-mail – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – If anyone can help me I could really use some advice (and I really don’t want to hear anything about my socks not matching my shoes).  I consider myself an intermediate fly caster, but I occassionally will get a closing loop where the leader will actually wrap itself around the loop.  I read in a book that it can be caused by accelerating into the foreward cast too soon and not smoothly accelerating. Does anyone else have some advice? All opinions are appreciated. Thanks, Dana

Response:

writes: If anyone can help me I could really use some advice (and I really don’t want to hear anything about my socks not matching my shoes).  I consider myself an intermediate fly caster, but I occassionally will get a closing loop where the leader will actually wrap itself around the loop.  I read in a book that it can be caused by accelerating into the foreward cast too soon and not smoothly accelerating. Does anyone else have some advice? All opinions are appreciated.

Hi Dana, Before you start worrying about your casting technique, take a quick look at the junction of the leader to the fly line.  If it is cracked so that it hinges instead of transferring energy smoothly, no amount of casting modification will make it work. Perfectly executed casts with this mechanical problem will throw tailing loops. If you’re not sure whether or not the junction causes a hinge, here’s a simple test: 1.  Hold the fly line in one hand and the leader in the other with the junction in the middle and about 6" of material on each side of it. 2.  Push your hands together until they are about 6" apart.  This should form an upside down "U"  in the line. 3.  Raise one hand while lowering the other.  This will roll the junction over the upside down "U" in the line. 4.  If it rolls over smoothly then your casting technique is the problem.  If one side collapses instead of rolling over, then you have a mechanical "hinging" problem.  If you use too fine of a diameter monofilament for the butt section of your leader, that will cause hinging on the leader side – If you use too heavy of a diameter mono for the butt section it will cause the fly line to collapse.  Any crack that is serious enough to cause casting problems becomes immediately apparent with this test.  In any case the answer is to cut off the old junction and replace it with one of the right size.  You will often have to cut off a few inches of the fly line if it’s badly cracked. I’ll address some casting options in another post.                             Hope this helps,                                       Dan Dan Gracia Orvis West Coast Fly Fishing Schools

Response:

writes: If anyone can help me I could really use some advice (and I really don’t want to hear anything about my socks not matching my shoes).  I consider myself an intermediate fly caster, but I occassionally will get a closing loop where the leader will actually wrap itself around the loop.  I read in a book that it can be caused by accelerating into the foreward cast too soon and not smoothly accelerating. Does anyone else have some advice? All opinions are appreciated.

Besides the mechanical problems addressed in another post, your casting technique can certainly cause this problem. The two most common causes are bad timing, and the afore-mentioned jerky accelleration.  If the timing is bad, the line drops well below the plane on the forward cast before you bring it forward and it can hit the line.  Practicing your casting at times other than just when you’re fishing can go a long way to develop the sense of timing needed to correct this.  A practical exercise to allow you to see the cast without swiveling your shoulders (swiveling shoulders causes you to throw hooks in your cast) is to either use a side-arm cast, or angle your body at about 60 degrees to the target so you can move your head to watch the back cast extend without moving your shoulders.   For the side-arm cast, lay the rod out directly in front of you with the reel pointed in the direction of the target (not pointed down at the ground *very important*).  Use a slicing motion, not a scooping motion to make the cast while keeping your shoulders perfectly still.  You can watch the loop travel in both directions and you can easily see the width of the casting arc you’re using.  By changing the width of this casting arc you can widen or tighten your loops.  *Dont wait for the line to straighten out entirely* before you start your forward cast.  It takes a split second reaction time to initiate the forward cast and if you wait until it straightens out entirely it will fall considerably and bleed off energy before you actually start your forward cast. Reaction time is different for everyone and you have to find out just when is right by trial and error.  For starters pick a spot a foot or two back from the end of the fly line, and when the unrolling loop reaches that point, start your forward cast.  Adjust this distance farther back from the end of the fly line or closer to it as needed.  When you hit it "spot on" the fly will just sort of stop for a split second in mid-air.  That’s perfect.  The good news is that it doesn’t have to be perfect, but the closer you can get to it the more efficient your casting will be. Bad accelleration is a more common problem with tailing loops and it becomes particularly noticeable when making longer casts or when casting in windy conditions.  The tendency is to put a lot more force into the rod and that usually results in jerking it forward.  This sudden jerk causes the rod to load (flex) suddenly and then unload (straighten) slightly because less energy is used to finish the stroke than start it.  This causes the rod tip to travel in a concave or U shape and will always throw a tailing loop.   Extra power can be added to a casting stroke, but it must be at the very end – "Accellerate to a Stop".  If this is the problem, try stopping the rod more suddenly at the end of the stroke instead of hitting it harder at the start. Another option that will result in the same thing is to start the beginning of your cast by pulling on the rod, not jerking it.  With proper accelleration and the right casting arc, your rod tip will travel in a straight line "—-" from start through the flexing and to the finish which will throw a tight efficient loop.                         Hope this helps,                                 Dan Dan Gracia Orvis West Coast Fly Fishing Schools

Response:

If anyone can help me I could really use some advice (and I really don’t want to hear anything about my socks not matching my shoes).  I consider myself an intermediate fly caster, but I occassionally will get a closing loop where the leader will actually wrap itself around the loop.  I read in a book that it can be caused by accelerating into the foreward cast too soon and not smoothly accelerating. Does anyone else have some advice? All opinions are appreciated. Thanks, Dana

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Question:

[rip...] Boulder: A prime reason to resume above-ground nuclear weapons testing.

What do you think Rocky Flats is there for ? — TimW Halfordian Golfer

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I have a good friend who is going to the Boulder, CO, area around Labor Day and would like to know what’s available for fly fishing.  Do you have any information on rivers/streams and guide services?  Any information would be appreciated.  Thanks.

Response:

I have a good friend who is going to the Boulder, CO, area around Labor Day and would like to know what’s available for fly fishing.  Do you have any information on rivers/streams and guide services?  Any information would be appreciated.  Thanks.

if you read john gierach, you would get a pretty good idea of what the area is like…it is his haunt and he does talk about it a lot… — TimW Halfordian Golfer

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I have a good friend who is going to the Boulder, CO, area around Labor Day and would like to know what’s available for fly fishing.  Do you have any information on rivers/streams and guide services?  Any information would be appreciated.  Thanks. Saw Hill Ponds, off 75th st. in Boulder.  Big bluegill and lots of bass, some very large.  I know it ain’t trout, but the panfish action will be great this time of year.  Tell him to walk to the back ponds. JE

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: I have a good friend who is going to the Boulder, CO, area around Labor : Day and would like to know what’s available for fly fishing.  Do you have : any information on rivers/streams and guide services?  Any information : would be appreciated.  Thanks. Right under the library downtown.  I believe I’ve seen that big fish from Vail there… I guess it makes road trips.  (Will I ever stop flogging this horse?) — Rick T. Rick Fletcher   –   http://www.chem.uidaho.edu/~fletcher/ Associate professor of chemistry  |  That’s Idaho, not Iowa.    | ad hominem University of Idaho               |  Upper Left Hand Corner.    | ad hominem Moscow, ID 83844-2343             |  No, I don’t grow potatoes. | ad hominem

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: I have a good friend who is going to the Boulder, CO, area around Labor : Day and would like to know what’s available for fly fishing.  Do you have : any information on rivers/streams and guide services?  Any information : would be appreciated.  Thanks. Right under the library downtown.  I believe I’ve seen that big fish from Vail there… I guess it makes road trips.  (Will I ever stop flogging this horse?)

If you go under the library, or downstream at the observatory, make sure it is well after midnight…those literary types get all bent out of shape when you creel a couple for dinner in front of them… — TimW Halfordian Golfer

Response:

: I have a good friend who is going to the Boulder, CO, area around Labor : Day and would like to know what’s available for fly fishing.  Do you have : any information on rivers/streams and guide services?  Any information : would be appreciated.  Thanks. Right under the library downtown.  I believe I’ve seen that big fish from Vail there… I guess it makes road trips.  (Will I ever stop flogging this horse?) If you go under the library, or downstream at the observatory, make sure it is well after midnight…those literary types get all bent out of shape when you creel a couple for dinner in front of them…

I would not try to smoke any tobacco products either.  They get pretty testy about that shit.  Noone will bug you if you decide to spark up a Fat One:-) though, in fact they may want to join you. I would also avoid taking dumpsters, lighting them on fire, and then rolling them down The Hill at policemen. You can, however, get away with murder in that town.  If you do kill someone, the police will posture for months and then bust some poor homeless guy on drugs instead. Boulder: A prime reason to resume above-ground nuclear weapons testing. </chaz

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Question:

Planning to go to Cabo in mid May.  Need as much info on guides that specialize in fly fishing.  Any info on best patterns etc would be very helpful.  Have been told that a guide for fly fishing would be about $250 for 1/2 day…seems a bit high?

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Fly fishing opportunities abound in Cabo and surrounding areas. You certainly could spend $250 a day for a guide, or you could hire a local *panga* (open skiff) for about $100 a day. Large schools of Jacks, Pacific Yellowtail, and my favorite – Roosterfish abound. The owners of these boats will probably not be *fly*fishing guides, but rather local smalltime fisherman looking looking to pocket $100 greenbacks for the day. They know where the fish are, and their small boats can get you to the breaks where the fish congregate. You may consider San Jose del Cabo and/or La Paz. Nearby, lots of raentable boats. Also, you can almost always catch fish from any rocky outcropping that far down in Baja. On sandy beaches, keep your eyes out for Corbina in 4"-12" feeding on sand crabs. The water may be too warm, but if they are there, they’re going to be big ones. Good Luck, Jojoe, New York City

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Question:

Sorry if this is a re-post, but I never saw my original post, so here I go again: The other day I found an old South Bend bamboo fly rod at an antique shop.  The rod it self was in pretty good shape, but the guides and grip were shot.  It has a plastic reel seat with slip rings, and the cork grip has grooves in it, spaced about 1 inch apart.  It’s a 3- piece and each piece is of equal length. My question is this:  I would like to rebuild the rod and fish with it, since I doubt the rod has any collectable potential.  Does anyone know about these South Bend rods, and would it be worth my effort and expense to rebuild it and fish with it?  The shop wants $65.

Steve, Depends on whether you’re more interested in refinishing it or fishing it.    Some South Bends were ok, others were not.  If you want to start this as another hobby, $65 is a cheap investment and not much loss if you screw it up.   Some things to look for – are the pieces straight? If not you’re going to have to strip the varnish too because you have to use an alcohol lamp to heat it up to straighten it.  Are the ferrules still tight?  How’s the varnish – chipped, bumpy (alligatored)?  Check each piece carefully for delamination of the strips and "hook digs".   If you’re interested, I can give you the name of a rod dealer who carries "handyman’s specials". Ross

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Of course it’s worth it. I keep and fish several old "mediocre" uncollectible rods with no market or collector value just for the fun of variety. I can think of few things more worthless than a rod which is never used. Cheers, Ken. — Ken Clark Ft. Lupton, CO

Response:

Steve, Ken is right.  Go for it.  If you are interested in it at all, claim the rod.  There’s a distinct difference between "restoration" and "repair".   You’ve taken the obvious precautions to make sure you aren’t taking a chance on a collectible, so give it a try.  Take your time, think ahead, be careful, and you will find that your efforts will be well worth it. Think of this:  You’re on a trout stream.  You’re fishing with a rod made by an anonymous someone who may have built your rod long before your time.   You rescued that rod from obscurity and added somethinng of yourself to it.  You catch and release a fish.  What better way to recognize that original maker and your sport? Another book for reference is "The Fine Bamboo Fly Rod" by Stuart Kirkfield (Stackpole Books).  It sets a reasonable thought pattern on what has to be done.  Good luck! –

Response:

Sorry if this is a re-post, but I never saw my original post, so here I go again: The other day I found an old South Bend bamboo fly rod at an antique shop.  The rod it self was in pretty good shape, but the guides and grip were shot.  It has a plastic reel seat with slip rings, and the cork grip has grooves in it, spaced about 1 inch apart.  It’s a 3- piece and each piece is of equal length. My question is this:  I would like to rebuild the rod and fish with it, since I doubt the rod has any collectable potential.  Does anyone know about these South Bend rods, and would it be worth my effort and expense to rebuild it and fish with it?  The shop wants $65. Thanks in advance for any responses.  Feel free to e-mail me. Steve –  A sunny day,       a box of midges,          and a wandering stream…    Man, this MUST be heaven!    <    Steve Kulpa    <<

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Pick up the book titled" Bamboo Rod Restoration Handbook" by Mike Sinclair. It is by far the best book out about this subject. All your questions will be answered.  If you can’t find it e-mail me and I’ll give you info. By the way 65 dollars to rebuild a cane rod is awfully cheap. Id look at a rod they had restored before turning them loose on my cane rod.             Mark Heskett

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