Question:

        Pickerel Jim has expressed a desire to invite a bunch of you fine fellas to a fly-fishing for carp rodeo… there’ll be prizes (beware of PJ offerings), and he will reserve the west wing of the Hyde-Away resort in Fairfield NC near Lake Mattamuskeet in Hyde County if enough hardy carp men (and women) sign up…  he seemed serious at the time, but the Bacardi Black was almost gone when the idea sprang forth from his grinnin jowls.  still, on a trip a few weeks ago we watched huge carp leaping about like mullet (mating, spawning behavior?) in a pretty back woods spot of more than a 100 acres of water that can be waded easily… had no idea how to fish for them at the time with equipment we had, but looks like it would be fun to hook ol Mr. Limpet… jeff jeff

Response:

   Pickerel Jim has expressed a desire to invite a bunch of you fine fellas to a fly-fishing for carp rodeo… there’ll be prizes (beware of PJ offerings), and he will reserve the west wing of the Hyde-Away resort in Fairfield NC near Lake Mattamuskeet in Hyde County if enough hardy carp men (and women) sign up…  he seemed serious at the time, but the Bacardi Black was almost gone when the idea sprang forth from his grinnin jowls.  still, on a trip a few weeks ago we watched huge carp leaping about like mullet (mating, spawning behavior?) in a pretty back woods spot of more than a 100 acres of water that can be waded easily… had no idea how to fish for them at the time with equipment we had, but looks like it would be fun to hook ol Mr. Limpet… jeff

That is soooo tempting . . . Peter Visit The Streamer Page at http://home.cogeco.ca/~pcharles/streamers/index.html

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Question:

Thanks Possibly I can get a answer from IGFA before we go. I can almost see it going either way – Actually I guess its not very different from the way most tube flies are constructed since the head and front fly is mounted on the shock tippet. On my tubes I am using 90# wire with the 2nd tube between the 2 tandem hooks and then attaching the leading hook to the shock with a cinch knot and placing  a foam head and the leading tube mounted on the shock tippet. I am using owner AKI’s so the snelling doesn’t work – they don’t have turned up eyes like the octopus hooks he’s using. He’s not really planning on conforming to IGFA anyways and is planning to use 3-4′ shocks. I was just intrigued by the simplicity of his rigs. On the landing: On all my gear trips the standard has been to "leader" a billfish to boat to be released or brought in for pictures, but on standard gear the leader is like 10′ long.  I am planning to use about 4′-5′ total leader including class and shock. I seem to recall reading somewhere, or being told by a captain, that a billfish was "caught" or the "landing phase starts" when either the leader or class tippet went inside the first guide or something. After that the mate could leader the fish  to control it while gaffing, netting, billing  or releasing. Reeling down to the class shouldn’t be a major problem, but trying to "leader" a billfish at 3′-4′ sounds very dangerous. On most of my other offshore flyfishing experiences we were either gaffing or netting the fish so, it wasn’t much of an issue using very short leaders. I hope to get to read an actual IGFA book this weekend – maybe it will clarify the specifics. Thanks again for the info.

  Hello   I also submitted this question to the Igfa site under construction but I   don’t know if they are set up to give responses yet.     I was wondering what the IGFA states concerning Shock tippets and tandem   flies.     It’s my understanding that the shock tippet length can be up to 12" to the   eye of the leading hook on a tandem fly and the max distance between tandem   hooks on a fly is 6" eye to eye.     1. Does the shock tippet require a separate connection at the fly or can the   shock leader be snelled to the first hook then the tag end of the same line   be attached to the back hook?  That would total 18" of the same shock   tippet – class to trailing hook.   If I understand what you mean, no.  The best rule of thumb is to use tackle that   won’t raise eyebrows, i.e., "usual and customary" (and taint a record with the   "technical record" charge).     A friend of mine is rigging some flies like this for Billfish.  Although the   fly would only have "one shot" (until the shock tippet was damaged) the   connection is very clean, straight running, and seems to give an extra 6" of   shock.   See above.       Also I have another nagging basic question.   2. When is a fish considered "caught" on fly gear – so someone else can   touch the line or leader  and assist in the landing or releasing the fish.   Is the when the leader goes in the rod tip? the class line, the shock?   something else?   Absolutely no touching the leader before the fish is "landed" and only in   gaffing or netting.  If someone else helps before the fish is brought to gaff,   DQ.   The above is solely my opinion, based on my knowledge only (I’ve read the rules,   and have only a passing knowledge, I don’t fish for record/trophy anymore).  If   you are going for record, you captain should have a working and ready knowledge,   as well as a copy of the rulebook to refer to.  If you are going on a bareboat   for record, get a copy of the rules from the IGFA (they are in Ft. Lauderdale –   561 area code).   HTH?   R

Response:

Thanks   Anyone have a URL for the IGFA fly fishing rules online?   I tried www.igfa.org  - under construction   Does anyone have the rules posted on their pages?   Thanks     Google turned up this one:   http://www.wolfffishing.com/ingamfisasru.html   —   Charlie…

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- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Hello I also summited this question to the Igfa site under construction but I don’t know if they are set up to give responces yet. I was wondering what the IGFA states concerning Shock tippets and tandem flies. It’s my understanding that the shock tippet length can be up to 12" to the eye of the leading hook on a tandem fly and the max distance between tandem hooks on a fly is 6" eye to eye. 1. Does the shock tippet require a separate connection at the fly or can the shock leader be snelled to the first hook then the tag end of the same line be attached to the back hook?  That would total 18" of the same shock tippet – class to trailing hook.

If I understand what you mean, no.  THe best rule of thumb is to use tackle that won’t raise eyebrows, i.e., "usual and customary" (and taint a record with the "technical record" charge). A friend of mine is rigging some flies like this for Billfish.  Although the fly would only have "one shot" (until the shock tippet was damaged) the connection is very clean, straight running, and seems to give an extra 6" of shock.

See above. Also I have another nagging basic question. 2. When is a fish considered "caught" on fly gear – so someone else can touch the line or leader  and assist in the landing or releasing the fish. Is the when the leader goes in the rod tip? the class line, the shock? something else?

Absolutely no touching the leader before the fish is "landed" and only in gaffing or netting.  If someone else helps before the fish is brought to gaff, DQ. The above is solely my opinion, based on my knowledge only (I’ve read the rules, and have only a passing knowledge, I don’t fish for record/trophy anymore).  If you are going for record, you captain should have a working and ready knowledge, as well as a copy of the rulebook to refer to.  If you are going on a bareboat for record, get a copy of the rules from the IGFA (they are in Ft. Lauderdale – 561 area code). HTH? R

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Anyone have a URL for the IGFA fly fishing rules online? I tried www.igfa.org  - under construction Does anyone have the rules posted on their pages? Thanks

Response:

Anyone have a URL for the IGFA fly fishing rules online? I tried www.igfa.org  - under construction Does anyone have the rules posted on their pages? Thanks

No, but rule did you need info on? R

Response:

Anyone have a URL for the IGFA fly fishing rules online? I tried www.igfa.org  - under construction Does anyone have the rules posted on their pages? Thanks

Google turned up this one: http://www.wolfffishing.com/ingamfisasru.html — Charlie…

Response:

Hello I also summited this question to the Igfa site under construction but I don’t know if they are set up to give responces yet. I was wondering what the IGFA states concerning Shock tippets and tandem flies. It’s my understanding that the shock tippet length can be up to 12" to the eye of the leading hook on a tandem fly and the max distance between tandem hooks on a fly is 6" eye to eye. 1. Does the shock tippet require a separate connection at the fly or can the shock leader be snelled to the first hook then the tag end of the same line be attached to the back hook?  That would total 18" of the same shock tippet – class to trailing hook. A friend of mine is rigging some flies like this for Billfish.  Although the fly would only have "one shot" (until the shock tippet was damaged) the connection is very clean, straight running, and seems to give an extra 6" of shock. Also I have another nagging basic question. 2. When is a fish considered "caught" on fly gear – so someone else can touch the line or leader  and assist in the landing or releasing the fish. Is the when the leader goes in the rod tip? the class line, the shock? something else? Thanks for any insights you might have on these questions Anyone have a URL for the IGFA fly fishing rules online? I tried www.igfa.org  - under construction Does anyone have the rules posted on their pages? Thanks

No, but rule did you need info on? R

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Question:

Not at all, the computer is built into the handle of my large arbor,  the modem is in the reel seat of my nine weight, and my telecopying staff doubles as a printer, and I only write this stuff on the fly. TL MC — "In order to achieve what is possible, one must constantly attempt the impossible" http://www.mikeconnor.de

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(don’t keep the knife in your chest-fly-box, you may fall and cut your tits)

LOL Many newsgroups go through cycles of on-topic, then a spark, then much nastiness, then a cool-down, then humor, then on-topic…… We appear to be in the humor stage. Regards, Jeff

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If you wish to learn fillet trout, a very useful skill in life, there are several ways to do it, and two require a knife, grab a knife, then grab the trout, and cut it into bits, (don’t keep the knife in your chest-fly-box, you may fall and cut your tits) This applies to other things as well, and if certain gear you

Question:

I recommend a 16 ft Mad River Explorer.

Me too. I don’t know how far around the block this conversation has gone, but for my way over 2-cents worth of experience goes, there is NO better all around boat (considering performance, versatility, cost, looks, maintenance, etc) than the 16 foot MR Explorer.  Period.  Anyone buying a canoe should plan an spending a little more for this boat as a starter, then expect to never need to buy another all-around canoe again. See my sig file. — riverman I think, therefore I thwim. Carpe ropum. "There is NO better all around boat (considering performance, versatility, cost, looks, maintenance, etc) than the 16 foot MR Explorer. Period."

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I love Mad River boats BUT one might get a little argument about the Explorer being the best all rounder from Swift Kipawa fans. who would suggest that the Kipawa is more stable more speedy (and faster too) more capacious more maneuverable more white water capable more seaworthy and more perttier. — Lyle

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I recommend a 16 ft Mad River Explorer. Me too. I don’t know how far around the block this conversation has gone, but for my way over 2-cents worth of experience goes, there is NO better all around boat (considering performance, versatility, cost, looks, maintenance, etc) than the 16 foot MR Explorer.  Period.  Anyone buying a canoe should plan an spending a little more for this boat as a starter, then expect to never need to buy another all-around canoe again. See my sig file. — riverman I think, therefore I thwim. Carpe ropum. "There is NO better all around boat (considering performance, versatility, cost, looks, maintenance, etc) than the 16 foot MR Explorer. Period."

Response:

I recommend a 16 ft Mad River Explorer. Me too. I don’t know how far around the block this conversation has gone, but for my way over 2-cents worth of experience goes, there is NO better all around boat (considering performance, versatility, cost, looks, maintenance, etc) than the 16 foot MR Explorer.  Period.  Anyone buying a canoe should plan an spending a little more for this boat as a starter, then expect to never need to buy another all-around canoe again. See my sig file.

If you want one boat that will do everything, I agree (though I haven’t tried the Swift).  If you want a boat for primarily or exclusively flatwater, then there are better choices out there in composite/fiberglass/kevlar — Andrew

Response:

I recommend a 16 ft Mad River Explorer.

It’s been a while since I purchased my first boat, and I don’t know much about what’s out there, but my general comment would be buy the best boat you can afford.  Don’t spare the horses.  Talk to people in a local canoe and kayak club, and get their recommendations on brands. Tell them what you want to do with the boat–that’s the important part.

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I recommend a 16 ft Mad River Explorer. It’s been a while since I purchased my first boat, and I don’t know much about what’s out there, but my general comment would be buy the best boat you can afford.  Don’t spare the horses.  Talk to people in a local canoe and kayak club, and get their recommendations on brands. Tell them what you want to do with the boat–that’s the important part.

I’ve been a kayaker for a while now, but just recently my new girlfriend wanted a canoe for us.  Have been looking for a used Royalite, or Royalex canoe for a couple months — just today we found it! I consulted with other canoe-types in the club, and this Mohawk Nova 16 (or other similar brands/models) seemed to do it all.  It is Royalex.  This is the exact one we got today, used for $500 with four float bags.  Boats like this are sort of "Do It All" dealies. Each time some new person asks "Which Canoe should i get?" i always say ‘Buy a used, decent brand’ and this is the first time i’ve had to try it out. We like this boat!

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I recommend a 16 ft Mad River Explorer. I own both an Old Town Discovery and the Explorer, and find the Old Town is too heavy to carry any distance (not to mention lift). The Explorer is lighter, handles better, and yes, it’s easier on the eyes. The Discovery might plow through rocks better, but takes on water in the slightest chops. I used to own a Coleman, I’m glad it died an ugly rocky death long ago. http://www.geocities.com/Yosemite/Rapids/5189/index.htm Reach out and touch a rock – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Hello! I realize that this has probably been beaten to death until some are sick of it, but being new to this group, thought I’d seek some advice anyway. Am going to buy a canoe this spring, & am in a quandry about the wisest choice, while still keeping to a reasonable price. Having seen very few used canoes for sale in my area, so looks like it might be a new canoe. I plan to use the canoe for hitting some lakes in my region with my sons….do some fly fishing, canoe camp occasionally, that type of thing. If the canoe I end up getting is worthy, the canoe might see some river use (probably nothing worse than Class II, possibly a little Class III, but maybe not), & might also make it to such places as Bowron Lakes & Myrtle Lake in B.C. for more extended canoe camping & paddling (with more portages, a person should start looking at weight….now the cost of the lighter canoes jumps up & introduces itself). I’ve looked at Old Town, Wenonah, Mad River, etc. A person could spend $1000 – $1400 for one of their lighter canoes, or could pay ~$700 for an Old Town Discovery that would suit the bill, but is somewhat heavier. Might also look at a Marathon, Grumman, Osagian, or Alumaweld aluminum canoe as well in that price range. Money being an object here, the price of a Coleman canoe (go ahead, let me have it!) locally is $269 – $319 looks pretty attractive. I know the Coleman would be a rugged, durable canoe. Trying to decide if it’s wiser to get a lighter, more quality designed canoe that would be more versatile in the long term, even if I have to charge !/2 of it or more, or pay cash for something like a Coleman since I’m fairly new to the sport, & would welcome advice from those who have already made such decisions. Would also welcome info about used canoes for sale where freight to eastern Washington wouldn’t be a deterrant. Thanks!

Response:

The coleman is a good boat for short paddles around a quiet lake once in a while

With a dang, clanging Coleman, the lake’s not going to stay quiet for long. It’s practically a percussion instrument Eddy "Colemans are for keeping beer cool" Rapid.

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It sounds like you’ve been doing your research.  I agree with all your points. About three years ago, I faced the same question.  Like you, I wanted the best for the least.  I purchased a OT Disco158.  I like it fine but if I had the opportunity to make that decision again, I would save a little more money and by the lighter boat with a more efficient hull.  I use it mostly for day paddling with my wife or fishing with my children.  I’ve run a class III in it but don’t suggest it.  I’ve paddled it 32 miles through the Okeefenokee swamp and camped out of it.  I am not interested in getting rid of it but, would not buy another. I understand the Disco169 has a more efficient hull but, it weighs in at a hefty 85lbs. You will find that weight makes more of a difference than you think.  I can car-top my 80lb canoe by myself but "it ain’t pretty."  The yolk makes it easier to carry but it still weighs 80lbs.  A lighter canoe will respond better to corrections/steering and may even be a little faster. If you can stand to wait, I’d recommend it.  You’ll just end up wanting to buy different one in a few years.  I would have by now but I am discovering both sea and whitewater kayaks! Oh yeah, one other thing.  If you really think you’re going to enjoy the sport, don’t give the Coleman too much thought.  You really DO get what you pay for in a canoe. Eric da Grate – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Hello! I realize that this has probably been beaten to death until some are sick of it, but being new to this group, thought I’d seek some advice anyway. Am going to buy a canoe this spring, & am in a quandry about the wisest choice, while still keeping to a reasonable price. Having seen very few used canoes for sale in my area, so looks like it might be a new canoe. I plan to use the canoe for hitting some lakes in my region with my sons….do some fly fishing, canoe camp occasionally, that type of thing. If the canoe I end up getting is worthy, the canoe might see some river use (probably nothing worse than Class II, possibly a little Class III, but maybe not), & might also make it to such places as Bowron Lakes & Myrtle Lake in B.C. for more extended canoe camping & paddling (with more portages, a person should start looking at weight….now the cost of the lighter canoes jumps up & introduces itself). I’ve looked at Old Town, Wenonah, Mad River, etc. A person could spend $1000 – $1400 for one of their lighter canoes, or could pay ~$700 for an Old Town Discovery that would suit the bill, but is somewhat heavier. Might also look at a Marathon, Grumman, Osagian, or Alumaweld aluminum canoe as well in that price range. Money being an object here, the price of a Coleman canoe (go ahead, let me have it!) locally is $269 – $319 looks pretty attractive. I know the Coleman would be a rugged, durable canoe. Trying to decide if it’s wiser to get a lighter, more quality designed canoe that would be more versatile in the long term, even if I have to charge !/2 of it or more, or pay cash for something like a Coleman since I’m fairly new to the sport, & would welcome advice from those who have already made such decisions. Would also welcome info about used canoes for sale where freight to eastern Washington wouldn’t be a deterrant. Thanks!

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Hello! I realize that this has probably been beaten to death…    

                        ~* s n i p *~ If you don’t mind the $65 or so shipping charge, try calling one of the companies someone mentioned else mentioned earlier: Rutabaga in Madison, Wisconsin sells LOTS of boats.  They always have new Old Town blems on hand at a greatly reduced rate.  Not a bad deal for a first boat.   They will be getting lots of used boats in another month after their annual "Canoecopia" show; many people will be trading in their boats for something new. Give them a call at 800-472-3353 (800-I-PADDLE) or check out their website:  www.paddlers.com Tell Darren I sent ya. Good luck. — To reply by email, remove mapson. from the edress Check out the links page at this site: www.paddlers.com

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Thank you all for the replies & advice. I realize that researching a purchase like this, then even trying out different boats would be the best of all worlds, but hearing from folks that have been there is also a definite help. Thanks again!

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If the Coleman is the only way you are going to get on the water, do it!  If you want a boat, get one of the others.  Go demo some boats. The newsgroups cannot tell you how you will feel in a boat.  you need to try them.  Borrow a Coleman and then you can feel the pain in your lower back as you haul it to the water.  Then you will be informed. Try a lake boat with a keel in a moving river and learn why a keel is not too swell in moving water.   – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Hello! I realize that this has probably been beaten to death until some are sick of it, but being new to this group, thought I’d seek some advice anyway. Am going to buy a canoe this spring, & am in a quandry about the wisest choice, while still keeping to a reasonable price. Having seen very few used canoes for sale in my area, so looks like it might be a new canoe. I plan to use the canoe for hitting some lakes in my region with my sons….do some fly fishing, canoe camp occasionally, that type of thing. If the canoe I end up getting is worthy, the canoe might see some river use (probably nothing worse than Class II, possibly a little Class III, but maybe not), & might also make it to such places as Bowron Lakes & Myrtle Lake in B.C. for more extended canoe camping & paddling (with more portages, a person should start looking at weight….now the cost of the lighter canoes jumps up & introduces itself). I’ve looked at Old Town, Wenonah, Mad River, etc. A person could spend $1000 – $1400 for one of their lighter canoes, or could pay ~$700 for an Old Town Discovery that would suit the bill, but is somewhat heavier. Might also look at a Marathon, Grumman, Osagian, or Alumaweld aluminum canoe as well in that price range. Money being an object here, the price of a Coleman canoe (go ahead, let me have it!) locally is $269 – $319 looks pretty attractive. I know the Coleman would be a rugged, durable canoe. Trying to decide if it’s wiser to get a lighter, more quality designed canoe that would be more versatile in the long term, even if I have to charge !/2 of it or more, or pay cash for something like a Coleman since I’m fairly new to the sport, & would welcome advice from those who have already made such decisions. Would also welcome info about used canoes for sale where freight to eastern Washington wouldn’t be a deterrant. Thanks!

patrickatcyberhighwaydotnet

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Hello!

Well hello to you! I know the Coleman would be a rugged, durable canoe.

Actually, they aren’t.  Not compared to Old Town, Mad RIver, Mohawk, etc.  I wouldn’t want to hit too many rocks with a coleman.  Aluminum canoes are extremely durable, but, and this is a BIG BUTT, it’s hard to keep the suckers quiet.  Each and every time you place your paddle in the boat, you and every fish within 300 feet will hear the ‘thud’. I hear the Boy Scouts using them all the time at Upper Priest lake in Idaho…very noisy. already made such decisions. Would also welcome info about used canoes for sale where freight to eastern Washington wouldn’t be a deterrant. Thanks!

You live around here in Spokane?  You join the Spokane Canoe and Kayak Club yet?  I’m the newsletter editor.  We’re having our largest meeting/auction/potluck of the year come February 26th — next friday. If you wanna see a LOT of activity, come see it.  Email me if you want more info.

Response:

For the money you’re looking to spend, I would suggest you test paddle an OT Penobscot 17.  I’ve used mine quite a bit on lakes in minneapolis and in the BWCA.  It’s got moderate initial stability, fantastic secondary stability.  It has no rocker so it tracks like a arrow, but turns like a pig.  Leaning into a turn can give you a good bit of effective rocker.  Its a great tripping boat.

Response:

Tom, I was in your position a few years ago, let me tell you what I bought. I found that the best tradeoff for weight, durability, and cost, for lake and occasional class I/II rivers is fiberglass.  Not the cheap chopper gun variety, but a canoe made up of decent sheet materials.  I chose a Wenonah, largely because I have a great local dealer who sells them (as well as Mad River). Fiberglass advantages are hull stiffness without bulk which = paddling efficiency, no flex while paddling, easily repairable if it does become damaged, etc.  Fiberglass slips across rocks in a low water condition much better than aluminum – avoid that material at all costs if you plan on running low water.  About the only disadvantage is that the gel coat looks beautiful when new, and quickly gets scraped up pretty bad – but that means you’re actually USING the boat, doesn’t it? Your ideal boat in a plastic would be royalex – much lighter than the Old Town crosslink.  It’s well worth the upgrade cost.  I see tons of the Discovery boats for sale – and no royalex boats for sale!! You don’t find many (good) canoes for sale, because most people have no reason to sell them! They’re not that expensive, and last a lifetime with reasonable care. Good luck! Lou – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Hello! I realize that this has probably been beaten to death until some are sick of it, but being new to this group, thought I’d seek some advice anyway. Am going to buy a canoe this spring, & am in a quandry about the wisest choice, while still keeping to a reasonable price. Having seen very few used canoes for sale in my area, so looks like it might be a new canoe. I plan to use the canoe for hitting some lakes in my region with my sons….do some fly fishing, canoe camp occasionally, that type of thing. If the canoe I end up getting is worthy, the canoe might see some river use (probably nothing worse than Class II, possibly a little Class III, but maybe not), & might also make it to such places as Bowron Lakes & Myrtle Lake in B.C. for more extended canoe camping & paddling (with more portages, a person should start looking at weight….now the cost of the lighter canoes jumps up & introduces itself). I’ve looked at Old Town, Wenonah, Mad River, etc. A person could spend $1000 – $1400 for one of their lighter canoes, or could pay ~$700 for an Old Town Discovery that would suit the bill, but is somewhat heavier. Might also look at a Marathon, Grumman, Osagian, or Alumaweld aluminum canoe as well in that price range. Money being an object here, the price of a Coleman canoe (go ahead, let me have it!) locally is $269 – $319 looks pretty attractive. I know the Coleman would be a rugged, durable canoe. Trying to decide if it’s wiser to get a lighter, more quality designed canoe that would be more versatile in the long term, even if I have to charge !/2 of it or more, or pay cash for something like a Coleman since I’m fairly new to the sport, & would welcome advice from those who have already made such decisions. Would also welcome info about used canoes for sale where freight to eastern Washington wouldn’t be a deterrant. Thanks!

Response:

Hello! I realize that this has probably been beaten to death until some are sick of it, but being new to this group, thought I’d seek some advice anyway. Am going to buy a canoe this spring, & am in a quandry about the wisest choice, while still keeping to a reasonable price. Having seen very few used canoes for sale in my area, so looks like it might be a new canoe. I plan to use the canoe for hitting some lakes in my region with my sons….do some fly fishing, canoe camp occasionally, that type of thing. If the canoe I end up getting is worthy, the canoe might see some river use (probably nothing worse than Class II, possibly a little Class III, but maybe not), & might also make it to such places as Bowron Lakes & Myrtle Lake in B.C. for more extended canoe camping & paddling (with more portages, a person should start looking at weight….now the cost of the lighter canoes jumps up & introduces itself). I’ve looked at Old Town, Wenonah, Mad River, etc. A person could spend $1000 – $1400 for one of their lighter canoes, or could pay ~$700 for an Old Town Discovery that would suit the bill, but is somewhat heavier. Might also look at a Marathon, Grumman, Osagian, or Alumaweld aluminum canoe as well in that price range. Money being an object here, the price of a Coleman canoe (go ahead, let me have it!) locally is $269 – $319 looks pretty attractive. I know the Coleman would be a rugged, durable canoe. Trying to decide if it’s wiser to get a lighter, more quality designed canoe that would be more versatile in the long term, even if I have to charge !/2 of it or more, or pay cash for something like a Coleman since I’m fairly new to the sport, & would welcome advice from those who have already made such decisions. Would also welcome info about used canoes for sale where freight to eastern Washington wouldn’t be a deterrant. Thanks!

Response:

Hello! I realize that this has probably been beaten to death until some are sick of it, but being new to this group, thought I’d seek some advice anyway. Am going to buy a canoe this spring, & am in a quandry about the wisest choice, while still keeping to a reasonable price. Having seen very few used canoes for sale in my area, so looks like it might be a new canoe.

Yes, it has been done a lot, infact I bet a search on dejanews (www.dejanews.com) would answer most if not all your questions. The coleman is a good boat for short paddles around a quiet lake once in a while, or for giving to a scout troop to learn in (cheap and nigh on industructible).  I have an old town discovery 164 which is about the same as the penobscott, just weighs more… a lot more on a long portage. Personally I’d look around for a used good boat, and stay away from the colemans. Hope this helps Rich Johnson Enfield Nova Scotia Canada

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For flatwater, class I and Class II a good quality fiberglass (cloth, not spray in chopper gun) canoe would be the best bet.  I’d look for a used one, some places (like Rutabaga in Madison, WI and Piragis in ELY, MN) sell a number of used boats like that.  A new We-No-Nah in Tufweave (fiberglass like) can be had for $8-900.  Western Canoeing has similar boats.  Used Kevlar could be in the same range, used fiberglass less. These would work for Class I, not good for Class III, Class II depends on skill level.  For mostly whitewater, Royalex is a better choice, but maybe you can borrow a canoe for those infrequent forays?  It will be heavier and harder to paddle.  Coleman’s are a poor design, Discovery’s are (in the 16′ 9" and 17′ 4" versions) an okay design, but overy heavy and don’t have the long term durability of Royalex. Aluminum is a fine material for flatwater, as good or better than plastic, but can be dangerous in whitewater and a pain in shallow rivers as it tends to stick to rocks, so it’s easy to get stuck and broach. I’d rather (actually I do) have a 17′ Grumman than a Coleman or Discovery. I’d look for a quality fiberglass or used Kevlar boat from We-No-Nah, Mad River, Western, Sawyer. — Andrew Gooding

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Question:

Hi I am getting into bamboo rod making is there anybody out there that is selling planing forms? Thanks Dave

Response:

Dave,         Try this link.   http://www.geocities.com/SoHo/Coffeehouse/5262/forms.htm         Scott – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Hi I am getting into bamboo rod making is there anybody out there that is selling planing forms? Thanks Dave

Response:

www.goldenwitch.com – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Dave,         Try this link. http://www.geocities.com/SoHo/Coffeehouse/5262/forms.htm         Scott Hi I am getting into bamboo rod making is there anybody out there that is selling planing forms? Thanks Dave

Response:

O.K. I want to build a cane rod so I need to get some planing forms.  I have found metal forms for sale from $300 to $900 and I have read plans on how to make hardwood forms. I don’t mind spending the money for metal forms if they are worth it, and I don’t mind making hardwood forms if I have too, but I’d like to know what others have found before I make a decision.  What’s the best way to go? BTW, does anyone sell pre-built hardwood forms?

Response:

writes: I don’t mind spending the money for metal forms if they are worth it, and I don’t mind making hardwood forms if I have too, but I’d like to know what others have found before I make a decision.  What’s the best way to go?

Wayne Knight Geneva IL                            

Response:

    As you have found there is a broad range ($wise) in available planing forms. An overview would be this – the entry level forms are within .0015" accuracy – which for the beginer is as close as most will work – the top end forms as as  accurate as they come .0005".     The decision is a personal one – the entry level forms can be final tuned (about 3 hours of filing) to be as accurate as the high end ones. If interested in the details please e-mail me off the list – the best address properly.     FYI – if you aren’t aware of it there is a e-mail repeater especailly for bamboo rodmaking – the rodmakers list – you can find information of how to subscribe to the list at home1.gte.net/jfoster/ .     Additionally there are several get togethers these days for the rodmaker or would be rodmakers (beginners are always welcome) – excellent information is exchanged and they are very social – the one I’m most familiar with is the one in Grayrock (aka Grayling, MI) – officially the dates this year are June 25, 26 – unofficially it starts June 19 (  permission slip form the spouse required) – the Grayrock group might best be describes as a friendly group that hangs out on the tailgate of a pickup truck – having a good time – sharing the craft of rodmaking – and yet raised close to $30,000 at the now world famous TTBBBQ. A combination of rod makers – fly fishing fourm folks (aka Single Malt Drinking Team) – and others locals that let their hair down a bit with activities such as the Sporting Flies Bribery Contest – The Makers Rod – Body Hair Auction – Fisherman Toss – and other assorted events. It’s About Fishin’ Not Fashion Another Wayne

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Question:

 Should I buy a Sage Discovery or  St. Croix’s, top of  the line, Legend which cost’s as much as the Sage

 Is there a noticeable difference  between the two rods that would aid or hinder a biginning caster?

  I also looked at the St. Croix Imperial,  for a $120.  Are there any other rods that I should be aware of?

Go to the flyshop and ask to try them.  Most shops will gladly let you do that.  There is a very big difference between these rods.  I haven’t tried the Sage Discovery but I use St.Croix rods a lot.  There are significant differences in the action of the Legend, Imperial and Pro.  You need to determine how fast or slow you want the action.  That’s best done by casting and it’s best to be able to stand there and go from one to the other so you feel the difference.

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I have a $200 credit at a local FF shop, which carries Sage, G. Loomis, and St. Croix rods. Should I buy a Sage Discovery or  St. Croix’s, top of the line, Legend which cost’s as much as the Sage (I couldn’t find a Loomis rod, in stock, for under $200)?  Is there a noticeable difference between the two rods that would aid or hinder a biginning caster?  Would I soon "out-grow" the Sage rod?  I also looked at the St. Croix Imperial, for a $120.  Are there any other rods that I should be aware of? I would welcome any advice, to help me choose a rod? Thank you  in advance.    

Take your $200, add about 50 bucks to it and buy a Loomis GL3.  The GL3 is in a whole other class than the Sage DS or St, Croix. John Woodling Sacramento, CA

Response:

Go with the St. Croix. Both their lower end rods are the same in fact, but one comes with a fancy rod tube and wood reel seat, otherwise no difference. They’re all great rods. i suggest not buying their top of the line model if you’re just getting started. It’s a bit faster then the other and not really necessary. As far as outgrowing it, not a problem. But eventually you will want to expand you collection inot different weights and lengths — all part of the mania. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I’m just getting into fly fishing and will be buying my first rod (a 8′ 6" 5-6 wt) shortly.   I have a $200 credit at a local FF shop, which carries Sage, G. Loomis, and St. Croix rods. Should I buy a Sage Discovery or  St. Croix’s, top of the line, Legend which cost’s as much as the Sage (I couldn’t find a Loomis rod, in stock, for under $200)?  Is there a noticeable difference between the two rods that would aid or hinder a biginning caster?  Would I soon "out-grow" the Sage rod?  I also looked at the St. Croix Imperial, for a $120.  Are there any other rods that I should be aware of? I would welcome any advice, to help me choose a rod? Thank you  in advance.     Rick

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: I have a $200 credit at a local FF shop, which carries Sage, G. Loomis, : and St. Croix rods. Should I buy a Sage Discovery or  St. Croix’s, top of : the line, Legend which cost’s as much as the Sage (I couldn’t find a : Loomis rod, in stock, for under $200)?  Is there a noticeable difference : between the two rods that would aid or hinder a biginning caster?  Would I : soon "out-grow" the Sage rod?  I also looked at the St. Croix Imperial, : for a $120.  Are there any other rods that I should be aware of? If that flyshop that you have credit at won’t let you take the rods outside to practice cast them, take your credit elsewhere! My experience has been that the customer may like the cheaper outfit better than the top-of-the-line stuff!  We always give people the opportunity to cast a rod before buying it. That way, they know exactly what they are getting. they are all good rods that you are considering. Jon Porter

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- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I’m just getting into fly fishing and will be buying my first rod (a 8′ 6" 5-6 wt) shortly.   I have a $200 credit at a local FF shop, which carries Sage, G. Loomis, and St. Croix rods. Should I buy a Sage Discovery or  St. Croix’s, top of the line, Legend which cost’s as much as the Sage (I couldn’t find a Loomis rod, in stock, for under $200)?  Is there a noticeable difference between the two rods that would aid or hinder a biginning caster?  Would I soon "out-grow" the Sage rod?  I also looked at the St. Croix Imperial, for a $120.  Are there any other rods that I should be aware of? I would welcome any advice, to help me choose a rod? Thank you  in advance.     Rick

Hi Rick, the comparison you make is one between a Geo Metro (St. Croix) and a lower class Porsche (SAGE rod). What do you mean with outgrow. = The SAGE performs so well that you will probably never outgrow this rod. A few years ago is was the state-of-the-art rod before the = development of the Graphite3-material. If you want a little bit more in performance choose the SAGE over the St. Croix. The SAGE is = a much better balanced rod with lots of backbone to cast a whole line with a weighted stonefly nymph and enough sensitivity to fish = for large finicky trout with a small midge imitation. The 9ft 8wt DS is my standard rod for striper. It’s not overly stiff so that I=  have a kind of buffer to fight a large fish and still can throw a whole fly line. The 8ft5wtDS is a great trout and grayling rod wh= ich allows a smooth presentation and roll-casting far beyond the usual fishing distance. Some of the high end St. Croix might be a little bit stiffer and might outperform the SAGE on really long casts but sacrifice on smo= othness and sensitivity in the short distance range. If you really want a good rod for under $200 there is only one choice: SAGE (BTW, there are not many choices over $200- No, I am not=  a SAGE affiliate; I am only casting, fishing, and comparing other rods from time to time and the rods where I usually end (because = they outperform others by far) is …. – except split cane, of course!)            Thomas

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: I got a Scientific Anglers kit at Wall Mart for $50.00. It seems to work : just fine. I’m so inexperienced I don’t think I would know a good rod from : a bad. My next door neighbor is teaching me to cast and that has really : helped. Trust me.  You would know a really great rod from a really bad one. But the Sci. Anglers are pretty good starter kits.  Even better are the Redington Redstart kits ($100 with a lifetime warrantee). — Laboratory for Applied Logic    Dept. of Computer Science University of Idaho             www: http://www.cs.uidaho.edu/~foster —–BEGIN PGP PUBLIC KEY BLOCK—– Version: 2.6.2 mQCNAzDtvLEAAAEEAKAC21G2Be0K0DMgjLpxrwLmsYfCz8rWcfgyABjr3Ryfk1dO nV7fFFpUF3xohR7die+/B2V9oqRQzTLeSF2ECKlsTY/yUyw2kn+P2ju1umh4Fwzd cVTvc+H69q1+Ft3kmw/PE0Pan+g0PUGGJ43stw3q4OgBHdixbRd/f9giJFDxAAUR tCZKYW1lcyBBLiBGb3N0ZXIgPGZvc3RlckBjcy51aWRhaG8uZWR1PokAlQMFEDD8 ReEXf3/YIiRQ8QEBFrAD/2AFuRWcD/3MENC3qJMC/Or1qxknjkK7Uv+TDf2LHPOY GHBbG9PyWuXQ8of0Dd+JYwf/tzlO9Yk1s1zTdikfriak21FW0bCokxDIhA3myppZ IZDWVA9CyvDYHuP5Ii1NkBvocab813JzDLZA+0iVN5sebGb9zSXR4Za47hlriHeP =RDHK —–END PGP PUBLIC KEY BLOCK—–

Response:

I got a Scientific Anglers kit at Wall Mart for $50.00. It seems to work just fine. I’m so inexperienced I don’t think I would know a good rod from a bad. My next door neighbor is teaching me to cast and that has really helped. Stumbling along the fly fishing stream Ed

in 5 years that 500 rod will feel foriegn and that 50 bucker will fit like worn tennis shoes…

Response:

Call Cabelas and ask if they still have their 95′ models on sale for up to 50% off. I spent $150.00 for mine a couple of weeks ago and couldn’t ask for a better rod. It casts similarly to the GL3 by Loomis in my opinion, and you get 60 free days to try it. Good luck.DLowe

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I got a Scientific Anglers kit at Wall Mart for $50.00. It seems to work just fine. I’m so inexperienced I don’t think I would know a good rod from a bad. My next door neighbor is teaching me to cast and that has really helped. Stumbling along the fly fishing stream Ed

Response:

Should I buy a Sage Discovery or  St. Croix’s, top of  the line, Legend which cost’s as much as the Sage Is there a noticeable difference  between the two rods that would aid or hinder a biginning caster?  I also looked at the St. Croix Imperial,  for a $120.  Are there any other rods that I should be aware of?

Well, over the past several months I have made several posts in favor of St. Croix Legends as a good economical alternative fly rod.  I am by no means an expert fly caster, but I do end up at the practice ponds 3 to 4 times a week after work trying to nail down the proper technique.   I purchased, within the past 9 months, 3 St. Croix Legend fly rods.  A 4 weight, 6 weight, and 8 weight.  The 4 and 6 were offered to me for a very very good price, so I bit and planned to use them as backup rods since I am a little rough with fishing equipment.  My findings:  the Legends are indeed stiff (fast), and I needed to go up at least one complete line weight to load the rod the way I prefer. In fact, I was so disappointed in the 6 weight as a big open water trout rod that I have now resorted to using it as a shad rod with a 7 or 8 shooting head, which BTW, is working out very very nicely to my surprise. The 4 weight was originally a 3/4, but no way is it a 3 weight.  In fact, St. Croix uses this blank for ‘95 as a their standard 4 weight.  I get best results with a 5 line.  The 8 weight is good and is my first 8 weight rod, a learning rod, and to use for those ocassional trips for stripers here in Calif. I chose St. Croix after comparing it with the GL3.  I have been tossing a 9 shooting head and can CONTROL my loops and get 80-90 feet before my running line gets its usual attitude.  The accomplished casters have taken the same rod and tossed 120 feet plus, so it ain’t the rod.  For heavy applications, the Legends, like the GL3s, are solid economical choices, just heavy.  Heed the advice of others, try the rods out with a sales person that will take the time to check if your casting properly with good techinique because all fly rods will feel like crap if your not casting properly. Believe me, when I go to the practice ponds with my RPLs, LLs and the Legends, I would rather be throwing the RPLs and LLs.  The motto, you get what you pay for just like most other things in life.   — Howard P/S  Those new Lamiglass LHS-2 are very nice and worth consideration, but I don’t know their price point.

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: Take your $200, add about 50 bucks to it and buy a Loomis GL3.  The GL3 is : in a whole other class than the Sage DS or St, Croix. I have to respectfully disagree with John.  Many beginners get frustrated with that first year of *very* few fish.  I would start cheap and then buy up if you decide the sport is for you.  I’ve used the Sage Discovery and think it is a pretty good buy for a new guy and if you stay with it, can be used in the future for an inexperienced buddy you drag along after you purchase better.  I also think the Reddington Redspot is a true bargain at $99.00.  Rick Bob says check it out. — Rick T. Rick Fletcher   –   http://www.chem.uidaho.edu/~fletcher/ Assistant professor of chemistry  |  That’s Idaho, not Iowa.    | ad hominem University of Idaho               |  Upper Left Hand Corner.    | ad hominem Moscow, ID 83844-2343             |  No, I don’t grow potatoes. | ad hominem

Response:

Question:

Planning a visit to some friends in the Bolinas/Stinson Beach area early in April.  Thought I’d take my flyrod.  Anybody have any suggestions?  I’d be interested in fishing surf or small streams or anything in between, as long as it was close to Bolinas. Thanks, David

There’s a lake in the Point Reyes National Seashore that allegedly has some trout in it (Bass Lake), although I don’t know anyone who has actually fished it. Lagunitas Lake in the Marin Municipal Water District is stocked and artificial lures, no barbs, only. Some of the other lakes in the same area attract lots of bait fisherman. No stream fishing available in the area that I know of. Surf fishing with a fly rod?  Can’t say I’ve ever seen it done, but can’t say I’ve been looking either. Closest stream fishing (steelhead) would be the Russian River. — There is no such thing as a dumb question, but there IS such a thing as a dumb answer – I’ve given some.

Response:

Try the small gas station / fishing shop on the road between Petaluma and Bodega.  George will tell you about fishing the area -especially Tomales bay.  Look on the map for Walker Ck.- which is a misnomer, but hal local currency.  If he is in the phone book, idt will be on BOdega Hiway, I athink. He is guiding on athe Russian R as well. Regards, Cliff

Response:

suggestions?  I’d be interested in fishing surf or small streams or anything in between, as long as it was close to Bolinas.

Depends on how close is close. . . Most of the coastal rivers/streams are not open to fishing in that area, until you get up to the Russian River to the north.  There is good quality perch fishing at that time.  There are 2 or 3 guys who work at Western Sport Shop in San Rafael who i’ve seen out there each spring.  Their number is 415-456-5454. I’d ask for Gene or Noel.  They’ve got some patterns worked up which produce pretty well.  They’re real good on the whole area, too. re: other post The Bass Lake ponds in Pt. Reyes Natl Sea Shore are fun to walk to, but pretty fishless for about the last 10 years. *                                                     *

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Quoting brande from a message in rec.outdoors.fishing.fly    <Planning a visit to some friends in the Bolinas/Stinson Beach area    <early in April.  Thought I’d take my flyrod.  Anybody have any    <suggestions?  I’d be interested in fishing surf or small streams or    <anything in between, as long as it was close to Bolinas. David – You should may be able to catch surf perch off the beaches up there. Also, Russian River is just to the north.  Not too sure of all the specifics as I haven’t lived in NorCal in quite a few years. Jim Carlisle

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Planning a visit to some friends in the Bolinas/Stinson Beach area early in April.  Thought I’d take my flyrod.  Anybody have any suggestions?  I’d be interested in fishing surf or small streams or anything in between, as long as it was close to Bolinas. Thanks, David

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Question:

 I may be relocating to the Richmond, Virginia area soon and would appreciate any information ya’ll may have regarding FF Clubs / Organizations there.    This is an exciting possibility for me as I’ve never been east of my Texas Gulf coastline. I trust and hope the ethics & traditions of brother anglers are alive and well in the fine Eastern areas of the United States! Once again, any information is highly appreciated. Thanks Ya’ll. TEM

Response:

The Virginia Capital Chapter of Trout Unlimited meets on the 4th tuesday of the month at 7:30 pm at the Central Fidelity Bank north of McRea Rd in Bon Air, VA.  It’s just off Huguenot Rd across from Stony Pt. Plaza.

Response:

TEM If you like smallmouth fishing the James River is one of the best in the South and I’m sure you will find the ladies and gentlemen the same as where you came from. Welcome to the Southeast. Richard Warren Raleigh, NC

Response:

Welcome to Virginia.  We are a Flyfishing Guide and Instruction Service company named….. Flyfishing Virginia, L.L.C.  We post a weekly (well almost) column entitled, "This Week Flyfishing Virginia" where we post the results of all of our guides for the past week.  What’s hot and what’s not.  Stay tuned.  Again, Welcome to a state where you can flyfish 12 months of the years.  Bob Crawshaw and Ron Bennett,  Flyfishing Virginia L.L.C.  804-467-6668

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Question:

writes: writes: … I have also made large rod tubes for my one piece rods.  …  How long is the longest tube that you’ve taken on an airplane ?  I am asking  because I have received conflicting info from agents. I have taken a 9 ft two piece rod on numerous trips and put the rod

case in the overhead. Most of the airlines have overheads with two doors, however there is no divider between the two sections. A 9 ft rod just makes it provided there isn’t a lot of luggage in there already. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text –

Response:

I apolgize for the repetition here, but this is an important topic for those who are not regular travelers with flyrods.  There is nothing that will spoil a trip like lost or broken rods — insurance just won’t help. Never check rods!!!  First, I have only had one occasion where an agent tried to get me to check the rods, and I insisted on carrying them on board.  If you run into that problem, don’t give in.  Raise hell and they will let you on.  Second, I have always been able to get the rods (up to 9′ two piece) in the overhead bins, except on the smallest of commuters; then they went in the hanging bag compartment. Lyman Hughes Ennis,MT Dallas, TX

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writes: – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -This is a good question.  I am travelling by plane for the first time with my fly rod, which a two piece 8 1/2 footer.  I have one of the 1 1/2" aluminum rod cases with the sock inside, which doesn’t lock.  Can I claim it as carryon? SHould I just tape up the cover?  Or should I paste a label over the brand name on the case and label it Blueprints? Any advice would be appreciated. Chris Bernard (508)640-2016 days (617)979-0464 home

Do not check your rods.  Continental lost my rod case for a day, even when I checked it in as oversized.  Apparently, some baggage systems lose long items because they fall off the system at the turns.  Fight like hell to take it on as luggage.  I start kissing the butts of the check in people and then plead with the flight attendants and it always works.  I use alum. rod tubes inside a nice looking Bean Maine Guide rod bag that actually looks like luggage.  Wear some god awful fishing hat with a TU catch and release pin and they’ll treat you as an eccentric and let you do what you want. Musconet

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Everything we do up here is by air.  Have a rod cases called the "Bazooka" model.  Hold 5 rods is bright red, easy to see and monitor, and is indestructable.  Have take it all over the world and have not had a problem. — Gene Dobrzynski, Eagle River, Alaska

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writes: writes: … I have also made large rod tubes for my one piece rods.  …  How long is the longest tube that you’ve taken on an airplane ?  I am asking  because I have received conflicting info from agents.

I have made tubes to carry one piece casting rods.  Longest rod is 7′6", and the rod tube is a couple of inches longer. It’s in the attic at the moment, but, if I remember correctly, it is a 4" ID tube.  (ABS – sched 40).  I I checked that with no problem ….. The longest I have carried on board is 54".  I put it in the hanger bag closets. Dee Crabtree DeeCrab*ibm.net

Response:

(508)640-2016 days (617)979-0464 home Do not check your rods. Musconet

Many of you have said the same as the note ref’d above.  Maybe I’m just lucky, or don’t travel as much as you, (hmmm – nah!) but I have never had a rod tubes damaged, opened, lost or delayed – can’t say the same for my luggage (clothes) though!!   I mark the tubes well, the ends are secure (bottom cap glued & top cap drilled & tied with a large nylon bundling tie) and the rods padded inside. Dee Crabtree DeeCrab*ibm.net

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I’ve flown twice with my rods.  United insisted that I check them, but then required that I sign a waiver of responsibility for loss or damage. Horizon Airlines insisted that I carry them onboard.  Thanks Horizon.

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writes: – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -This is a good question.  I am travelling by plane for the first time with my fly rod, which a two piece 8 1/2 footer.  I have one of the 1 1/2" aluminum rod cases with the sock inside, which doesn’t lock.  Can I claim it as carryon? SHould I just tape up the cover?  Or should I paste a label over the brand name on the case and label it Blueprints? Any advice would be appreciated. Chris Bernard (508)640-2016 days (617)979-0464 home

I’ve been flying with rods <g for a few years. Normally I carry them on, unless I have too much stuff. I have checked them on several occaisions, both in an aluminum tube and 3 tubes in a bag. Never had a problem. Perhaps I’m justlucky (on planes more than streams)! I’ve never been convinced a lock does much (for rods or bags), if someone wants it it’s gone. So I just make sure my insurance covers the important things. BTW I do carry older cane rods as well. David

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– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -This is a good question.  I am travelling by plane for the first time with my fly rod, which a two piece 8 1/2 footer.  I have one of the 1 1/2" aluminum rod cases with the sock inside, which doesn’t lock.  Can I claim it as carryon? SHould I just tape up the cover?  Or should I paste a label over the brand name on the case and label it Blueprints? Any advice would be appreciated. Chris Bernard (508)640-2016 days (617)979-0464 home

I’ve always carried my rod tube (and all my fishing gear for that matter! if my luggage gets lost…I can still fish!!) onto the plane. If it’s too long for the overhead…the attendant will put it in the standup closet.

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -This is a good question.  I am travelling by plane for the first time with my fly rod, which a two piece 8 1/2 footer.  I have one of the 1 1/2" aluminum rod cases with the sock inside, which doesn’t lock.  Can I claim it as carryon? SHould I just tape up the cover?  Or should I paste a label over the brand name on the case and label it Blueprints? Any advice would be appreciated. Chris Bernard (508)640-2016 days (617)979-0464 home

If you can carry it on, great, but if not I would advise buying one of those travel bags that hold rod tubes rather than checking just the tube. Why ? Because tubes do get lost; I spent an hour in a Mexican airport once looking for mine and trying to describe it (in my limited Spanish) to the people who worked there. Turns out it fell off a conveyor type rack and was sitting on the floor underneath it. The travel bag looks more like a suitcase, is less likely to roll around and will probably be treated with more care (of course using the word ‘care’ in any description of baggage handling is risky…) If it does get lost it’s easier to describe and find than a piece of aluminum pipe or PVC.                                                         jc      

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Does someone have a recommendation about how to pack regular, two piece rods for airline travel?

Never, I repeat NEVER check your rods, unless you want new ones and want to claim them on your insurance.  They will eventually be broken or disappear if you check them.  When carrying rods on, try to board early before the flight attendants are swamped by people with 400 pound duffle bags looking for a place to stow them.  Be vnice to the flight attendants and they will generally find you a place to stow your rods.  In most cases they will fit in the overhead bin.                  /                 /                   John Woodling                /                    Sacramento, CA                   <     <

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If I understand correctly, the question is can you carry 2-piece rods as carry-on or must you check them.  I have traveled a few times with my 7′11 2-piece in the 1.5" tube and my 9′ 2-piece in a larger tube.   Although they are larger than what the regulations allow, I have never had anybody stop me.  In fact the flight attendants were helpful in stowing them.   I don’t know what I would do if they decided to be a hard ass about it.  There’s no way I would check through a $300+ rod! Tight Lines, Gerry

Response:

I took two two piece fly rods and a two piece long musky weight bait casting rod from NJ to Miami to Quito to rainforest, overhead bin until I hit the Ecuadorian prop plane to the river port and the flight attendant there didn’t care where I stowed the rods. No guarantees but no one twitched about the tubes.

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Bob – Never, never, never check your rods.  That’s my advice.  The overheads will handle a standard size rod case.  On the one or two occasions that I have had a problem on an odd plane, I have always found a spot — usually in the hanging bag bin. Lyman                                               Dallas, TX                                               Ennis, MT

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Does someone have a recommendation about how to pack regular, two piece rods for airline travel? I have a large rod tube which can hold several rods of various sizes, but has no locking mechanism. Should I just securely seal the thing with tape (over the regular latch) and insure the daylights out of it? Any other suggestions? thx…. Bob Bob Sturtz                           "We have met the enemy – Traverse City, MI                        and he is us." – Pogo

Bob, I have carried rods across the country in home made and in commercial rod carriers.  I insert my aluminum fly-rod tubes into 1-1/2 in ABS tube which works just great to protect tube and contents.  (no damage since I start doing that!)  On my casting and spinning rods, I have carried them in a commercial rod case with a latch (which can have a pad lock attached.) I just secure the latch with a nylon tie.  I have also made large rod tubes for my one piece rods. I attached a drawer handle, capped one end and put a screw cap on the other end.  I insert foam inside both caps to protect the rods and also insert the rods into homemade sleeves. For the price of the commercial tube, I could build lots of custom tubes! Dee Crabtree DeeCrab*ibm.net

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This is a good question.  I am travelling by plane for the first time with my fly rod, which a two piece 8 1/2 footer.  I have one of the 1 1/2" aluminum rod cases with the sock inside, which doesn’t lock.  Can I claim it as carryon? SHould I just tape up the cover?  Or should I paste a label over the brand name on the case and label it Blueprints? Any advice would be appreciated. Chris Bernard (508)640-2016 days (617)979-0464 home

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Does someone have a recommendation about how to pack regular, two piece rods for airline travel? I have a large rod tube which can hold several rods of various sizes, but has no locking mechanism. Should I just securely seal the thing with tape (over the regular latch) and insure the daylights out of it? Any other suggestions? thx…. Bob Bob Sturtz                           "We have met the enemy – Traverse City, MI                        and he is us." – Pogo

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Question:

Hello,         My family is heading up to the North Fork (Henry’s Fork) of the Snake River in about a week.  Can anybody tell me how are the water conditions?  How is the (non-fly) fishing, in general? Thanks The above opinions are unregistered, evaluation opinions.  They are copyrighted solely by me.  If you wish to purchase a license to use these opinions, please send me $15.  Distribution without intent of permanent possesion is permitted and encouraged. "When one has lost one’s reason for living, one tends to be less motivated."  – Utwig, StarControl II

Response:

(Brad Kirby) writes:

havent heard lately how henrys is running, the main stem is still pretty full, although it changes almost daily due to water releases. i’m going over that way on the 18th for a week or so. you missed the salmon fly hatch by now on the henrys fork, overall the fishing on the snake system is [generally] pretty good, i always have good luck on large black roostertails for cutthroat, any large type spinner for browns in that area and lately have been having success with bro or black or some combination of jig, let it tap the bottom and keep your line tight, cutts will grab it on the fall, good luck.

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