Question:

I could be mistaken but I thought I read (perhaps it was about George LaBranche) how he would constantly cast while keeping the fly above the water. The idea was to dupe trout into thinking there was a hatch going on. If my reading is correct, then this technique predates Maclean and dispells Borgers’ misinformation. Guess I’ll have to re-read THE DRY FLY AND FAST WATER.

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Shadow Casting… Is it real – or just something pretty dreamed up by Maclean and stunt-filmed by Redford. …and if it is real how does one attempt it. Ari Ari Bert                                        Gaelle Bert +27 (0) 83 232 9903                             +27 (0) 83 236 5308 Flyfishing Corner +27 (0) 11 447 7230                             Shop 94, Admirals Court +27 (0) 11 882 8537 (fax)                       Cnr Craddock & Tyrwhitt www.troutfishing.co.za                                Street, Rosebank P.O.Box 79067 Senderwood 2145 South Africa

Response:

Shadow Casting… Is it real – or just something pretty dreamed up by Maclean and stunt-filmed by Redford. ..

It’s the latter. Kevin

Response:

Shadow Casting… Is it real – or just something pretty dreamed up by Maclean and stunt-filmed by Redford.

It’s been a while since I read the book.  If memory serves me, it was just something that Paul MacLean made up.      - Ken

Response:

Ari, Go to Jason Borger’s website and read what he has to say about shadow casting. http://www.jasonborger.com/NewFiles/shadowcast.html Dave – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Shadow Casting… Is it real – or just something pretty dreamed up by Maclean and stunt-filmed by Redford. …and if it is real how does one attempt it. Ari Ari Bert                                        Gaelle Bert +27 (0) 83 232 9903                             +27 (0) 83 236 5308 Flyfishing Corner +27 (0) 11 447 7230                             Shop 94, Admirals Court +27 (0) 11 882 8537 (fax)                       Cnr Craddock & Tyrwhitt www.troutfishing.co.za                          Street, Rosebank P.O.Box 79067 Senderwood 2145 South Africa

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Shadow Casting… Is it real – or just something pretty dreamed up by Maclean and stunt-filmed by Redford. …and if it is real how does one attempt it. Ari Ari Bert                                   Gaelle Bert +27 (0) 83 232 9903                                +27 (0) 83 236 5308 Flyfishing Corner +27 (0) 11 447 7230                                Shop 94, Admirals Court +27 (0) 11 882 8537 (fax)                  Cnr Craddock & Tyrwhitt www.troutfishing.co.za                           Street, Rosebank P.O.Box 79067 Senderwood 2145 South Africa

There is a little merit to it. If one can show  only the leader and a fly over a certain area several times, it may arouse curiousity in a trout. They are more aware of what goes on above the surface than most give them credit,  especially in lakes in calmer conditions. Bob S — Free Fly Fishing E-Magazine http://go.to/lakeflyfishing Lake Fly Fishing Instructional CD’s & VHS Top Fifty Lake Fly Patterns on CD-ROM

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Question:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Legendary BC FF’er Jack Shaw who introduced the concept of ‘imitation’ to the province and single handedly invented chironomid fishing passed away late last week. Shaw, whose formal education never exceeded 7 years of public school, authored 2 books ("Flyfish the Trout Lakes" and "Fly Patterns for Trophy Trout") and numerous magazine articles. He also taught scores of BC anglers to tie flies. Jack was admired for his unpretentious manner and dedication to fly fishing. Jack Shaw will be missed on the Kamloops Lakes. A true gentleman who taught several generations to cast, tie, and fish a fly. He made us "aware" of what was happening on and under the surface of the lake. He’ll be missed but not forgotten! Don

_______  If heaven is Catch and Release, Catch one for me Jack Shaw. — Mr.G http://www.gink.com/  Updates http://www.gink.com/chat Flyfishing Conversations 6:00 PM PST till after midnight.

Response:

Legendary BC FF’er Jack Shaw who introduced the concept of ‘imitation’ to the province and single handedly invented chironomid fishing passed away late last week. Shaw, whose formal education never exceeded 7 years of public school, authored 2 books ("Flyfish the Trout Lakes" and "Fly Patterns for Trophy Trout") and numerous magazine articles. He also taught scores of BC anglers to tie flies. Jack was admired for his unpretentious manner and dedication to fly fishing.

Jack Shaw will be missed on the Kamloops Lakes. A true gentleman who taught several generations to cast, tie, and fish a fly. He made us "aware" of what was happening on and under the surface of the lake. He’ll be missed but not forgotten! Don

Response:

That was my boyhood hero Ted Peck. Host of "Tide and Trials" plus a Sunday night radio, outdoors talk show and a successful salmon charter business. Ted fell on very hard times – both his son’s were killed in (separate) accidents and he lost his business in the following personal troubles. Since his retirement he has been working at Jaymer’s shop in Port Coquitlam – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text –   He told me his name, but I had forgotten it…

Response:

That’s it Ted Peck at Jaymer’s.  Had forgotten the names but when you reminded me, they clicked right into place.  Thanks for the info. —                                                       -dnc- RalphH wrote – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – That was my boyhood hero Ted Peck. …

Response:

That’s too bad. I have read Jack Shaw’s books, and benefited greatly from them. I am saddened to hear of his passing. He was, indeed, a legend. Tim Lysyk

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Legendary BC FF’er Jack Shaw who introduced the concept of ‘imitation’ to the province and single handedly invented chironomid fishing passed away late last week. Shaw, whose formal education never exceeded 7 years of public school, authored 2 books ("Flyfish the Trout Lakes" and "Fly Patterns for Trophy Trout") and numerous magazine articles. He also taught scores of BC anglers to tie flies. Jack was admired for his unpretentious manner and dedication to fly fishing.

Response:

A few years ago, I was visiting family in Port Coquitlam and my brother-in-law and I happened to go into a fly shop located in a little strip mall in the NE section of town.  We got to talking to an ‘old-timer’ in there who was extremely friendly, showed us how to tie some knots and offered to give us a brief casting lesson…unsolicited of course, we just came in to buy a few flies. My brother-in-law recognized him as a well known personality in Canadian fly fishing (Had a flyfishing TV Show at one time, too, I think).  He told me his name, but I had forgotten it…Jack Shaw seems to ring a bell though.  Think it could have been him?  Little embarrassing to have forgotten his name but I sure remember his gracious manner toward us. —                                                       -dnc-

Response:

Legendary BC FF’er Jack Shaw who introduced the concept of ‘imitation’ to the province and single handedly invented chironomid fishing passed away late last week. Shaw, whose formal education never exceeded 7 years of public school, authored 2 books ("Flyfish the Trout Lakes" and "Fly Patterns for Trophy Trout") and numerous magazine articles. He also taught scores of BC anglers to tie flies. Jack was admired for his unpretentious manner and dedication to fly fishing.

Response:

Question:

Anybody know of a good spot(s) for flyfishing near Dead Mans’s Flats in Alberta?  I will be going there in August this year. Thanks for your help. Greg

Response:

You can have the whole of the upper Bow river to fish in from Dead Mans Flats as well ..head up to the Limestone quarry on the way to Banff about 30 minutes from Dead Mans……Browns are there to be had as well as rainbows.. take a lunch and enjoy the scenery along the way!!!!! – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Anybody know of a good spot(s) for flyfishing near Dead Mans’s Flats in Alberta?  I will be going there in August this year. Thanks for your help. Greg

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Question:

I fished Lewis Creek last Sunday with a couple of friends. Water was very high and muddy, no fish caught or seen. Rumor on the stream was one 5lb steelie taken the day before below the ‘falls’. Appreciate any info on other Champlain activity- Bouquet, Ausable, Saranac? Thanks — John Preston         *                                                                                   <`}}}}=< Ponhook F&G                                             <`}}}}=< Charleston, NS      <`}}}}=< **Please help save the Margaree !  If you’re interested, visit this website:      <<<  http://chebucto.ns.ca/Environment/CPAWS/jcb.html  

Response:

John, Nothing happening yet on this side of the lake….haven’t heard of much on the other side(NY) either.  Water temps on Lewis are still far too cold (mid-30’s). Perhaps end of next week though. Good luck. James Ehlers                                                               Uncle Jammer’s Guide Service Vermont Fly Fishing, Hunting, River and Woodland Outings

Response:

Question:

Of course, I haven’t fished California that often at all.  Maybe twice in my life.  Your trails are just too chucked full of broken rods.  ;)    - Just kiddin, just kiddin!

That’s cuz when we break a rod, we just Chuck it! Charley

Response:

Gosh, but it works for me just fine.  Your bushes are THAT thick there, huh?  I never find it probable enough to change directions with ‘that many’ hang-ups Charlie.  I frankly would rather do it this way than stumble forward onto a rod or jamming the tip into exactly what you don’t like . . . thick bushes.  What I do, if and when on those rare occassions it IS that thick, is the rod simply is dangling on my finger-tips.  It it hangs up it pulls enough for me to stop immediately and wiggle it loose.

I almost always carry mine with rod tip trailing, with a loose grip, for the same reasons GG mentions.  If the brush is very thick and the trail meanders (like willow thickets), I somtimes carry the rod pointing straight up.  I rarely carry it tip first; too easy to snap a rod.  Also, when traveling on a hillside, the rod should always be carried on the downhill side.  That way, if your feet slide out from under you, you won’t fall on your rod and ruin your day. Charlie Quinton

Response:

Always walk down a trail with your rod butt in your hand and your rod trailing after. It is then a simple matter to unhook your upper fly and bingo! You already have enought line to cast and feed out. Mr. Gink

George,         I was with you right up to here.  In the pacific north west and California, it’s just too damn brushy for this.  I always carry my rod so I can see the tip and keep it out of trouble.  Invariably, when I try to trail it behind an eye or the line catches on a branch, and I end up retracing my steps to get it unwound.  Nice theory, haven’t gotten it to work here. Charley

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Always walk down a trail with your rod butt in your hand and your rod trailing after. It is then a simple matter to unhook your upper fly and bingo! You already have enought line to cast and feed out. Mr. Gink George,         I was with you right up to here.  In the pacific north west and California, it’s just too damn brushy for this.  I always carry my rod so I can see the tip and keep it out of trouble.  Invariably, when I try to trail it behind an eye or the line catches on a branch, and I end up retracing my steps to get it unwound.  Nice theory, haven’t gotten it to work here. Charley

thick there, huh?  I never find it probable enough to change directions with ‘that many’ hang-ups Charlie.  I frankly would rather do it this way than stumble forward onto a rod or jamming the tip into exactly what you don’t like . . . thick bushes.  What I do, if and when on those rare occassions it IS that thick, is the rod simply is dangling on my finger-tips.  It it hangs up it pulls enough for me to stop immediately and wiggle it loose.  I simply just don’t get hung up that often Chuck to worry about it.  Of course, I haven’t fished California that often at all.  Maybe twice in my life.  Your trails are just too chucked full of broken rods.  ;)    - Just kiddin, just kiddin!

Response:

I have to admit, I’m in the ‘hold the rod forward’ school myself…I have read and been told that this is not the best way, but when I tally the thing behind me, I always ball it up on the bushes like Charley.   TimW – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Always walk down a trail with your rod butt in your hand and your rod trailing after. It is then a simple matter to unhook your upper fly and bingo! You already have enought line to cast and feed out. Mr. Gink George,         I was with you right up to here.  In the pacific north west and California, it’s just too damn brushy for this.  I always carry my rod so I can see the tip and keep it out of trouble.  Invariably, when I try to trail it behind an eye or the line catches on a branch, and I end up retracing my steps to get it unwound.  Nice theory, haven’t gotten it to work here. Charley thick there, huh?  I never find it probable enough to change directions with ‘that many’ hang-ups Charlie.  I frankly would rather do it this way than stumble forward onto a rod or jamming the tip into exactly what you don’t like . . . thick bushes.  What I do, if and when on those rare occassions it IS that thick, is the rod simply is dangling on my finger-tips.  It it hangs up it pulls enough for me to stop immediately and wiggle it loose.  I simply just don’t get hung up that often Chuck to worry about it.  Of course, I haven’t fished California that often at all.  Maybe twice in my life.  Your trails are just too chucked full of broken rods.  ;)    - Just kiddin, just kiddin!

Response:

Two comments: 1. Rain forests of Pacific Northwest sometimes limit this method when bushwacking to the next pool. I often have to take the rod down to avoid breakage when working through foilage with jungle like characteristics. This applies to about 5% of my fishing. Otherwise it works. 2. DO NOT BEND THE END OF THE ROD when doing this. You can break it. There is a tendancy to pull the line from the reel end when hooking the guide. Rather one should pull the line straight out from the tip. Next time you have a fish on (or are snagged) look at the last foot or so of your rod. You will notice it is straight, while the rest of the rod bends. B.

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Going to move to a different fishing location? Or walk down a trail with your flyline? Here is a tip on how to string up your leader and flyline for travel. Take the fly and do not hook it on the fly guide. This is a waste of time. Rather, take your fly and hook it about two or three guides below the Rod Tip. Bring your hand back on the loop and and loop your leader/flyline around the reel housing and then reel up the remaining slack. What this does, when done correctly is keep your leader out of the tip guide. Here is how it should look. Your fly line comes out of the tip, changes into your leader which goes directly down to and around your reel and back up to your fly which is hooked in a guide up near your rod tip. Always walk down a trail with your rod butt in your hand and your rod trailing after. It is then a simple matter to unhook your upper fly and bingo! You already have enought line to cast and feed out. Mr. Gink

Hi George, I’ve used this system for years and you are right it’s a great way transport a "rigged rod."  Also it keeps you, your friends, or clients from ending up with a fly hook snagged in the carry hand.  I can’t tell you the number of time each year I get to remove hooks from clients hands who chose to use the hook keeper rather than the system you suggest. — Tight Lines Al Beatty BT’s Fly Fishing Products Bozeman, MT (97 catalog) http://www.flyshop.com/Expo/Specialty/BTsPdcts/index.html

Response:

Going to move to a different fishing location? Or walk down a trail with your flyline? Here is a tip on how to string up your leader and flyline for travel. Take the fly and do not hook it on the fly guide. This is a waste of time. Rather, take your fly and hook it about two or three guides below the Rod Tip. Bring your hand back on the loop and and loop your leader/flyline around the reel housing and then reel up the remaining slack. What this does, when done correctly is keep your leader out of the tip guide. Here is how it should look. Your fly line comes out of the tip, changes into your leader which goes directly down to and around your reel and back up to your fly which is hooked in a guide up near your rod tip. Always walk down a trail with your rod butt in your hand and your rod trailing after. It is then a simple matter to unhook your upper fly and bingo! You already have enought line to cast and feed out.

Two comments: – check the reel foot before you do this – many have quite sharp corners and will definitely eat into the leader. All of my CFO’s (which use a machined reel foot) needed a light touchup with a bit of sandpaper to take the edge off them (most of my Hardy’s needed a similar buffing job). – most flyfisherpeople I know have been doing this for decades… Cheers! /dave <<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<< < Digital Equipment Corp.       Alpha Server Engineering < < Parker Street Campus            Maynard, Massachusetts   < <        Charter Member of "Curmudgeons Unlimited"       < <<<<<<<<<<<< AMA 548313 <<<<<<<<<<<< Disclaimer: Opinion and content is mine alone, and unlikely             to be shared by my employer, etc…

Response:

Going to move to a different fishing location? Or walk down a trail with your flyline? Here is a tip on how to string up your leader and flyline for travel. Take the fly and do not hook it on the fly guide. This is a waste of time. Rather, take your fly and hook it about two or three guides below the Rod Tip. Bring your hand back on the loop and and loop your leader/flyline around the reel housing and then reel up the remaining slack. What this does, when done correctly is keep your leader out of the tip guide. Here is how it should look. Your fly line comes out of the tip, changes into your leader which goes directly down to and around your reel and back up to your fly which is hooked in a guide up near your rod tip. Always walk down a trail with your rod butt in your hand and your rod trailing after. It is then a simple matter to unhook your upper fly and bingo! You already have enought line to cast and feed out. Mr. Gink

Response:

Question:

I was thinking of trying out the Hiwassee river in western Tennessee this weekend.  Anyone know the fishing (trout, that is) and water level conditions?  In particular, is the river wade-able at this time of the year?

Response:

I was thinking of trying out the Hiwassee river in western

Tennessee this weekend.  Anyone know the fishing (trout, that is) and water level conditions?  In particular, is the river wade-able at this time of the year?<< I plan on fishing it Sunday morning, reports I’ve been getting indicates releases are starting late morning which should allow wading in the lower part of the trophy section until early afternoon. It’s been my limited experience that the fishing is almost always good. Don’t know for sure what’s coming off besides the ever present caddis but I always take some BWO, sulphurs, and hendricksons along with the usual nymphal stuff just in care. Wayne Knight Marietta GA                                              

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -Path: magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu!math.ohio-state.edu!howland.erols.net!newsfeed.in ternetmci.com!news.msfc.nasa.gov!jethro.msfc.nasa.gov!not-for-mail Newsgroups: rec.outdoors.fishing.fly Organization: NASA/MSFC Lines: 6 NNTP-Posting-Host: jethro.msfc.nasa.gov Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit X-Mailer: Mozilla 2.02 (X11; I; SunOS 5.3 sun4m) I was thinking of trying out the Hiwassee river in western Tennessee this weekend.  Anyone know the fishing (trout, that is) and water level conditions?  In particular, is the river wade-able at this time of the year?

I wish I could go with you. Fun river. Try right above the bridge at reliance (gas station).  If you got float tubes do that also spectacular river. I almost drowned at 2 wheels, waders filled, scared the piss out of me. Otherwise safe river. Have fun. Brad Barricklow, Columbus Ohio.

Response:

You can call 1-800 238-2264 which is the TVA hot line. When it answers push #4 which is generation levels. Then when the two letter code is requested, pust 22, the code for Appalacia Dam. They will then give you the last 8 hours of generation in CFS, followed by the generation schedule for the rest of the day. If you  call after 4PM EDT you can get the schedule for the next day. The river is usually fished during no generation but some people use tubes with one generator and drift boat it when 2 generators are running. I would be careful if you are not familiar with the river as the bottom is very irregular. Watch for water rising and get out.The river has been fishing pretty good but they have had a lot of rain this year in East Tn. The Adams fly shop is near the town or Reliance and they are a good source of info. Good luck. J.

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Question:

        I’m a beginner spending a week at Lake George, on the s platte near 11 mile canyon. Would sure appreciate suggestions on where to fish and what they’ll likely be eating.         Good local shops forflies and advice would be great also.                         Thanks in advance,                                         Mac

Response:

   I’m a beginner spending a week at Lake George, on the s platte near 11 mile canyon. Would sure appreciate suggestions on where to fish and what they’ll likely be eating.    Good local shops forflies and advice would be great also.                    Thanks in advance,                                    Mac

Mac, you may have seen my post "South Platte Cheesman Canyon:Alert!" I spoke of how I felt the fishing has declined in recent years. Anyway, I too was once a novice and I learned to fish by getting many tips from guides and just very friendly seasoned fly fishermen. At any rate there is a book that I highly recommend called:"Fly Fishing the South Platte River" By: Roger Hill*. This book if digested properly will be an invaluble source of information. Also, I recommend seeing Dick Johnson at the "Flies & Lies" fly shop in Deckers,Colorado. Dick always seems to know what they’re biting on and has everything you need to reel them in.The afore mentioned book is also available at Dick’s shop. Nymphing may be best I think because that’s where the trout seem to be most of the time. For starters use: San Juan worms size:#16 in earth tone. RS-2’s:#18-#20 olive green and gray. Brassies:#18-#24. Pheasant-tail nymphs:#18-#22. Maybe some Miracle nymphs and pupa’s in smaller sizes as well. Fish them in tandum with a couple of split shots and two strike indicators approximately 4-5ft. above your 1st fly. Best of luck, Mac and don’t forget to "Catch and Release." Sincerely, Cliff *A portion of the proceeds from the sales of this book will be donated to Colorado Trout Unlimited. "Best of angling" friends…..

Response:

Question:

Any suggestions for a line for Pike.  I am tempted to go for a floating shooting head, but noticed SA Mastery have a purpose built Pike line – Has anyone used this? Thanks

Response:

Any suggestions for a line for Pike.  I am tempted to go for a floating shooting head, but noticed SA Mastery have a purpose built Pike line – Has anyone used this? ThanksYes.  I’ve used it for Muskie (and Largemouths).  It does everything I

need from such a line.  I can even roll-cast, after a fashion. Bob Lundy IWFFC Mississauga, ON http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/rlundy — Bob Lundy IWFFC Mississauga, ON, Canada http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/rlundy

Response:

Any suggestions for a line for Pike.  I am tempted to go for a floating shooting head, but noticed SA Mastery have a purpose built Pike line – Has anyone used this? Thanks

Simon, I had great success for pike using a shooting head system with intermediate thru xtra-fast sink heads. I bought a couple of floating shooting heads, but never used them because they’re incredibly thick and bulky on the reel when compared with the sinking heads. Also, since you’ll probably be fishing big streamers and stripping them most of the time, it really doesn’t matter if the head sinks. (Often it’s even more desirable to use xtra-fast sink to get the streamers down to submerged weed beds. As to the special-purpose pike lines, I havn’t tried them because I just can’t justify a line which was built for just one specific purpose like that. A good shooting-head system is infinitely more versatile. (Plus allows you to cast heavier flies further and with less effort than a full-length line.) Regards, Fred

Response:

Any suggestions for a line for Pike.  I am tempted to go for a floating shooting head, but noticed SA Mastery have a purpose built Pike line – Has anyone used this? Thanks

Simon,    I don’t think shooting heads will give you any advantages.  In fact, I think they’ll cause more problems than fix.  A long cast is not needed, and the pike often hit it close to the boat leaving you with a bunch of line to clear.  Sight fishing is also a definite possibility with pike, so you need a line that can deliver the fly accurately.  Also, in the spring and fall they are in shallow water, so a sinking line is not needed (maybe for summer).  I use a cortland pike taper, and it works fine, but I’ve thrown the same flies (2/0 bunny flies and mega-divers) with an inexpensive cortland 444 WF 8wt and a bass bug taper lazer line.  They work well enough.  In my opinion, a shooting taper is not the correct line.  A pike or bass bug floating weight forward is what I’d reccomend. Rob Gregoire

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Question:

Geez.   One extremely well-written post about the impact of campfires and 4 sub-posts about how rocks can explode.  Seems like the point is being missed. I agree with Rick.   Everything we do has an impact of some kind.  Unless we’re willing to completely vacate the backcountry,  arguing about fires is truly splitting hairs. In high backcountry I continue to obey a self-enforced policy of no fires.  I agree with those who say that you’re more in touch with nature without the glare of flames.  At the same time, there are times a fire is a natural and morally acceptable practice, and a welcome companion on a cold or wet night.   I say, use your own judgement.  If you have none, I’ll spend a bit more time cleaning up after you.  It’s a small price to pay for the wilderness. Jim Stallings  - Seabeck, Washington "Concrete is heavy; iron is hard – but the grass will prevail"   Ed Abbey

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Scott Stuart) writes:   NOTE- I don’t think I have to say, but just in case….  DONT use rocks   from the lake in your fire ring, they will explode, and send deadly   shrapnel and hot coals everywhere.   What’s all this about exploding rocks? Believe me, THEY DO EXPLODE! One time I was backpacking with my friends and we had to make a small camp site (we couldn’t find any on the trail).  I used some of the larger rocks near a small stream to make our campfire ring. It was 1-2 hrs after we got the fire started, that one of the rocks cracked (from steam preasure inside). Nobody was hurt (suprised though) but next time I know better where to find my campfire rocks! Kurt

Nah, let them NOT believe you and see it for themselves.  It’s the only way some people learn.

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:    NOTE- I don’t think I have to say, but just in case….  DONT use rocks :    from the lake in your fire ring, they will explode, and send deadly :    shrapnel and hot coals everywhere.   : What’s all this about exploding rocks?  While packing in the Porky’s in the UP of Mi we built a fire ring with  rocks from the creek. Well never again,after sitting down to a meal  the damm fire blew up in our face. As luck/fate would have it no one  got hurt but several in our group had holes in there clothing from  flying rocks. In short don’t use wet rocks since there have retained  water in them and when heated steam builds up in them which means  pressure builds up in them and you get the picture by now.  Hopes this helps  Ike Grill somewhere in Wisconsin and still have sight.

Response:

  NOTE- I don’t think I have to say, but just in case….  DONT use rocks   from the lake in your fire ring, they will explode, and send deadly   shrapnel and hot coals everywhere.   What’s all this about exploding rocks?

Believe me, THEY DO EXPLODE! One time I was backpacking with my friends and we had to make a small camp site (we couldn’t find any on the trail).  I used some of the larger rocks near a small stream to make our campfire ring. It was 1-2 hrs after we got the fire started, that one of the rocks cracked (from steam preasure inside). Nobody was hurt (suprised though) but next time I know better where to find my campfire rocks! Kurt

Response:

(Joseph Scott Stuart) writes: What’s all this about exploding rocks?

"Creek rocks!" – (I’m sure someone will correct me if I get this wrong) Yes, exploding rocks.  A rock that’s been submerged (particularly   something porous like sandstone) is soaked with water.  If you put it in a   fire, it heats up.  If it heats up, too quickly for the water to escape   (which is a likely condition) the rapidly expanding water vapor inside the   rock will cause it to "explode" – marvelous "fun" about a campfire for   those so inclined… but something I would prefer to avoid. – Mark

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   NOTE- I don’t think I have to say, but just in case….  DONT use rocks    from the lake in your fire ring, they will explode, and send deadly    shrapnel and hot coals everywhere.   What’s all this about exploding rocks?

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        In light of the most recent rearing of the ugly head of anti-campfire zealots, I feel compeled to post what I know about minimizing campfire impact.  But first, an introduction and a caveat.         I don’t dispute the fact that fires do quite a bit of damage to the environment.  Allowing campfires in heavily-impacted areas is very often a mistake, due to the many problems associated with both the combustion process and the act of building the fire itself- such as trampling around the undergrowth and scarring (most often permanently) fire ring rocks.  I support fire bans in high-use areas for these reasons.  I would include nearly all well-known back-country areas stateside in my list of fire-ban areas, since they get alot of use.  Moreover, nearly any high-country worth backpacking is fragile enough to make a fire ban neccessary.         BUT, fire bans are NOT appropriate in all areas.  Zealots like those who posit that all fire-builders are selfish are being incredibly short-sited and self absorbed.  Not everyone limits travels to a) backpacking, b) heavy- use areas, c) the USA, and d) trips of short duration (read: less than one week).         A few posters have noted that they, like I, rely almost exclusively on fires for trips in Far northern Saskatchewan and Manitoba.  By far northern I mean north of the Churchill river- and my favorite area- the Wollaston Lk, Cochran River area.  This is heavily wooded (although 50 or so miles south of the tundra), heavily forest-fire burnt (every area has evidence of fire within about 30 years), and rarely traveled since the voyageurs used the rivers as fur trading routes.           These trips are over thirty days in length, making it totally impractical to carry fuel.  You couldn’t carry enough of it, for one. You wouldn’t want to risk a spill when there are weeks of paddling in between even native settlements.  And, you generally wouldn’t be able to afford the cost of the fuel.  Moreover, cooking for six people over a stove is futile for heavy-calorie meal prep.   Not to mention the fact that I never had to stray  more than twenty feet from the site to find bone-dry driftwood laying either on the beaches (in the north) or on the rocks (on the shield), in enormous quantities. Presented with the above, in addition to the impact of burning the fossil fuels and inevitable spills of fuel on VERY fragile Caribou moss, I opt for the fires.  Any arguments to the effect of the "more efficient burning" of stoves or "quicker boiling time" are just splitting hairs. Anyone who has been in a similar situation with similar numbers is welcome to disagree.  Theorists can continue to theorize…  ’nuff said.           The Impact of fires, given the above, needs to be minimized.  Any traveler who manages to GET to this area cares enough to want to preserve it.  [Ask me sometime about the two day all dirt road trip to my dropoff point on Wollaston.]  Part of the joy of this area is the feeling of solitude that comes from such a pristine wilderness- and anyone who is there is immediately faced with the enormous responsibility to preserve it.  Many of the natives and non-native fly-in fishing guides and non-native camps pollute their nests with "shore lunch’ fires using HUGE chunks of driftwood left half-burnt on shore,  toss fish innards all over the place, and generally behave with the abandon of 19th century humankind when they were faced with the seemingly endless ocean- and treated it like a bottomless wastecan.           Ok. So if you DO get up there- or you DO make a decision to use fires- what do you do to minimize the impact?  I’ll do it point by point: 1) Gather only fallen, dead wood.  Never break off branches (even from "dead" trees still standing).  Walk at least 100 yds away from the campsite before beginning to gather. 2). Know your woods.  Pine burns fast and hot- birch slow and cool.  Pine and hardwoods are better for starting fires, which can then be maintained with bigger, slower-burning woods like birch.  LOTS of wood is wasted by people trying to start fires with the wrong wood.  Moreover, the right wood on a proper set of coals will burn very efficiently, indeed.  And with little smoke. 3) Fire rings-                 A). Always used established fire rings where available.  If none are available:                 B). Sod turning technique:  Clear away duff.  Cut out a rectangle about 4-6 inches deep in the earth.  Build the fire in the hole.  Make sure (as ALWAYS) that the fire is OUT COMPLETELY, then replace the rectangle back in the hole.  This technique’s advantage is that it is VERY low-impact, but if you like to burn dishwater or food scraps, you run the risk of critters unearthing your cinders.  You can line the hole with rocks, but they will be scarred black and unsightly.  If you do use the rocks, you can either bury them or "lake" them when cold.                 C). Flat Rock Technique:  This was my favorite on the shield.  Find a flat rock, and build the fire on it.  It scars only that rock (or any others you use as wind shields, depending on conditions) which you can "lake."  Meaning, of course, that you toss it, when cold, into the lake, where mother nature will turn the scarred rock into dust in a few millenia. NOTE- I don’t think I have to say, but just in case….  DONT use rocks from the lake in your fire ring, they will explode, and send deadly shrapnel and hot coals everywhere.   4)  Size- Limit yourself to "cooking" fires- about the size of the bottom of your skillet.  And limit the size of your fuel to the diameter of a silver dollar.  These fires are plenty hot when well maintained- even in the June snows of Saskatchewan. 5) Try not to pollute other people’s environment- remember, a fire from across the lake is a reminder than you are not alone.  Some people like to feel alone.  So keep the fire small and as much out of site as is practical. 6) Consider using "fire sticks" or similar firestarters to cut down on kindling needs, especially on wet days. Hopefully this is useful information for the teeming masses.   ANY trip into the wilderness implies a gentle balance between impact and enjoyment.  To have any enjoyment by being someplace means that you have to, first, get there (by burning fossil fuels) and then, move around (trampling the underbrush or trail).  Not to mention the equipment most of us cart around.  If you want to get under a Patagonia Rep’s skin sometime, ask about the vats and vats of caustic slop that is left over after making out synchilla such pretty colors.  How about the boots? Either we kill off a bunch of cows, or we boil a bunch of dead dinosaurs and make a Texan rich.   One campfire isn’t going to do anywhere near as much environmental damage as the dye and industrial waste used to produce just ONE piece of polarfleece.  If we are serious enough to split hairs over campfires in the terms that we are using here ("all campfires are always bad and the people who make them are all selfish, we should all use stoves"), then I hope that we are serious enough to have educated ourselves as to the impact of the crap we cart around and the crap that we put on our pathetic, fragile, human bodies when out in the wild.  [BTW I mean ALL humans have fragile, pathetic bodies.  We don't fare well naked above the tropics or at altitude.]         In short- welcome to the real world folks- there is no such thing as zero impact.  This is not to throw the baby out with the bathwater. There is reason to minimize impact, not to give up and merely enjoy other people’s video travelogues (using electricity and plastic, but I digress…).  Minimizing impact may sometimes mean choosing the lesser of two evils, and reasonable people may differ as to the best choice of those evils.  There are about 5 different ways to walk through a mountain meadow, any one of which will garner the ire of adherents of the other 4.         Educate yourself as to the choices, and make what, in your judgement, is the best choice for your situation.  When the choices are close, don’t make the call for somebody else.

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Question:

 What if you have a jig of some sort on your line with a slip bobber rig….. Do you think it will

work? Has anyone…..tried it? Down here in TExas what you are describing is called a "Mansfield Mauler": Foam float with about a ten-inch stiff steel wire thru a slip-hole down the bobber. Wire held from leaving the hole by sliding plastic beads top and bottom (belayed by crimped ferrules) that "click" when the mauler is twitched. Bottom end has a few feet of leader and a snap:the  jig (or a treble hook with live bait like a shrimp) goes there… You "pop" the rod and as you do the wire comes up thru the float, thereby tilting the float to its side. THe sudden tilt causes the bait to be jerked up and a bit laterally towards the fisherman. THe wire also propels the beads against the bobber causing a nice loud click. As you relax the line the wire descend again thru the hole partway, allowing the bait to settle. Another click occurs when the top bead hits the top of the bobber. They are painted an iridescent red/dayglow orange color. Very effective over eelgrass down here for redfish and specks… Don’t know if they are avail from catalogs but I bet they are. email me for address of supplier here if you cant find em thru bass pro shops or equiv. places… good luck. bill II*

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 What if you have a jig of some sort on your line with a slip bobber rig….. Do you think it will work? Has anyone…..tried it?

In Iowa, during crappie spawning season, we used jigs with marabou feather tails under bobbers to catch them.  Set the jig 18-24 inches below the bobber, depending on the depth of the bottom.  Cast, slowly retrieve.  Set the hook at the slightest strange action by the bobber. Once, I was wading and casting this set-up.  I got careless, and let the jig hit the water behind me.  I threw a crappie 30 feet forward, after it grabbed that jig!  This should work almost anywhere if the water is clear enough to see 3-5 feet, during the spring spawn. Larry L. Neely

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I haven’t tried it yet, but I had a thought. What if you have a jig of some sort on your line with a slip bobber rig. Suppose the bobber has a long stem or tube (or whatever you call that piece the line passes through). Cast it out, and the jig sinks to the set depth and the weight of the jig keeps the slip bobber upright. Now, since the line passes all the way through the bobber from bottom to top, if you twitch or jerk your line in small increments will the slip bobber act as a fulcrum and cause enough up and down and sideways action on the jig to attract a strike? Eventually, you would twitch the lure back to you and have to cast again. But in clear water where fish spook at the sight of a boat, this might be a useful technique if you could find a school holding at a certain depth. Do you think it will work? Has anyone tried it?

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: I haven’t tried it yet, but I had a thought. What if you have a jig of : some sort on your line with a slip bobber rig. Suppose the bobber has a : long stem or tube (or whatever you call that piece the line passes : through). Cast it out, and the jig sinks to the set depth and the weight : of the jig keeps the slip bobber upright. : Now, since the line passes all the way through the bobber from bottom to : top, if you twitch or jerk your line in small increments will the slip : bobber act as a fulcrum and cause enough up and down and sideways action : on the jig to attract a strike? Eventually, you would twitch the lure back : to you and have to cast again. But in clear water where fish spook at the : sight of a boat, this might be a useful technique if you could find a : school holding at a certain depth. Do you think it will work? Has anyone : tried it? You have just described one of the most effective ways of fishing for crappie.  This technique is also good for trout and bluegill.  You can attach a sinking fly instead of a jig, twitch it now and then, you can catch bluegill, crappie or trout.  Sometimes a curious bass will bite but not too often.  Place a shiner and you will get big bass.  Of course, depends where you fish, depth setting, time of the year, species found in the lake, etc…

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I believe In-Fisherman or Bassmaster magazine had an article on just this type of fishing. I’am not sure which month it was in, but i’am pretty sure it was in last years run.

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: You have just described one of the most effective ways of fishing for : crappie.  This technique is also good for trout and bluegill.  You can : attach a sinking fly instead of a jig, twitch it now and then, you can catch : bluegill, crappie or trout.  Sometimes a curious bass will bite but not : too often.  Place a shiner and you will get big bass.  Of course, depends : where you fish, depth setting, time of the year, species found in the lake, : etc… You may also try using cast-a-bubble, or very tiny Thill floats if the fish are very spooky, instead of the ordinary bobbers.

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I haven’t tried it yet, but I had a thought. What if you have a jig of some sort on your line with a slip bobber rig. Suppose the bobber has a long stem or tube (or whatever you call that piece the line passes through). Cast it out, and the jig sinks to the set depth and the weight of the jig keeps the slip bobber upright.

I used to do a lot of heavy spinning from rocky coastlines when I lived in Samoa, fishing for bluefin trevelly and ulua. The surface poppers are fun, but no good when the fish were down. However, casting a diving lure was hopeless,… always snagging on the coral and losing precious lures. I thought about it a while, and came up with the same idea you hit on, only adapted to bigger fish. I was using 25 lb on a Penn 850, passing the line through a 2" bubble (the kind you partially fill with water for weight). On the terminal end, a barrel swivel was joined to a 4′ leader and large diving lure. Big Rapalas or salmon plugs were good. I would then cast out and let the lure sink down while counting off the seconds. If it hit bottom, a quick retrieve kept it off, then I would always start the retrieve a few seconds sooner on later casts (Rapala Countdown method). This would give a long, slanting retrieve to the surface, then a free fall to the bottom, another slanting retrieve, etc. till the lure was in. My best catch was a 38 lb white ulua on a 8" Rapala Sliver. However, I still lost plent of lures, but it was another option. — David G. Itano

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I haven’t tried it yet, but I had a thought. What if you have a jig of some sort on your line with a slip bobber rig. Suppose the bobber has a long stem or tube (or whatever you call that piece the line passes through). Cast it out, and the jig sinks to the set depth and the weight of the jig keeps the slip bobber upright. Now, since the line passes all the way through the bobber from bottom to top, if you twitch or jerk your line in small increments will the slip bobber act as a fulcrum and cause enough up and down and sideways action on the jig to attract a strike? Eventually, you would twitch the lure back to you and have to cast again. But in clear water where fish spook at the sight of a boat, this might be a useful technique if you could find a school holding at a certain depth. Do you think it will work? Has anyone tried it?

Great technique for Walleyes.   Knocks ‘em dead. Burt Benson, New York Mills, MN

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