Question:

Ya know….For all the loathing you receive from this group, there is nobody here that discredits you more than you discredit yourself. Over, and over, and over again, you prove just how huge a fraud you really are. It’s simply stunning…Boggles the mind, really. /daytripper (You even make Clinton look honest…)

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Did you copyright it?  If so, I’d have the legal team of Bert, Ernie, and Oscar look into it…

I looked back on this, and it occurred to me that some might have thought I was making light of Charlie’s notice of G’s hanky-panky regarding his report.  In case there is any doubt, I meant to satire George’s "copyright" signature nonsense in _his_ posts contrasted with his willingness to completely ignore the intended purposes and even the copyrights on the work, including books, of others.  The fact that he has misrepresented, or plagiarized outright, others’ writings should come as no surprise. TC, R – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text –

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"I purchased a Gehrke bamboo rod in October of 1999 and wrote a long and thoughtful review of the rod. It was a decent rod despite a few cosmetic flaws (wrap gaps, spotty varnish, dirtiness beneath the varnish primarily at the nodes, use of epoxy instead of varnish on the wraps). Regardless, the rod was arguably worth the $383 despite its imperfections.

Or about the price of a used Granger in decent condition? While it would be a used rod, it would likely be free of the sort of imperfections you encountered. — Rusty Hook Laramie, Wyoming

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Reminds me of Arnold J. Rimmer. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – — http://www.gink.com/cgi-bin/guestbook/igb.cgi

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)) – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Reminds me of Arnold J. Rimmer. — http://www.gink.com/cgi-bin/guestbook/igb.cgi

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Did you copyright it?  If so, I’d have the legal team of Bert, Ernie, and Oscar look into it…

Well, it seems he got a few people to go to his site, maybe it was in danger of fading away unless somebody looked (does a web site exist if nobody visits?). <g — Charlie…

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No Dave it is AM(Almost M).Gink ain’t got what it takes to produce true FM.  For Flyfishers only: A bottle of Gink to make ‘em stink,A bottle of wine to make ‘em shine. — Don Thompson Another Thompson Scion

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Zimbo writes: I find it very curious that several of the entries in the guestbook seem to have been written over a year ago but magically appeared within a one-day span several days ago. I also find it interesting that despite there being a 25 character minimum size limit for a comment, many of the entries are fewer than 25 characters. It would seem unethical to transcribe dated testimonials to make them appear to be guestbook entries. It’s FM, Zim. Dave

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George, Are we boasting or doing a little self promotion? Isn’t it amazing how 18 people from around the country all post testamonials within 40 minutes of each other. Paul

I find it amazing that Charlie Wilson just got back from the Western Clave…. what a trout bum! I don’t find it amazing at all that the crazed p.t. barnum lunatic of flyfishing did this…. kinda follows his pattern…. lies, lies, and more lies…. –walt

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I find it amazing that Charlie Wilson just got back from the Western Clave…. what a trout bum!

    I found it amazing that the product report I posted to roff appeared on a commercial site…..

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I find it amazing that Charlie Wilson just got back from the Western Clave…. what a trout bum!     I found it amazing that the product report I posted to roff appeared on a commercial site…..

there is that little, perchance illegal, indescretion. –walt

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I find it amazing that Charlie Wilson just got back from the Western Clave…. what a trout bum!    I found it amazing that the product report I posted to roff appeared on a commercial site…..

Did you copyright it?  If so, I’d have the legal team of Bert, Ernie, and Oscar look into it… TC, R – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text –

Response:

Did you copyright it?  If so, I’d have the legal team of Bert, Ernie, and Oscar look into it…

Response:

Zimbo writes: I find it very curious that several of the entries in the guestbook seem to have been written over a year ago but magically appeared within a one-day span several days ago. I also find it interesting that despite there being a 25 character minimum size limit for a comment, many of the entries are fewer than 25 characters. It would seem unethical to transcribe dated testimonials to make them appear to be guestbook entries.

It’s FM, Zim. Dave

Response:

Did you copyright it?  If so, I’d have the legal team of Bert, Ernie, and Oscar look into it…

Well, as a last resort, you could duelly reprot him to his ISP…. TC, R

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– http://www.gink.com/cgi-bin/guestbook/igb.cgi

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George, Are we boasting or doing a little self promotion? Isn’t it amazing how 18 people from around the country all post testamonials within 40 minutes of each other. Paul

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – — http://www.gink.com/cgi-bin/guestbook/igb.cgi

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http://www.gink.com/cgi-bin/guestbook/igb.cgi

I find it very curious that several of the entries in the guestbook seem to have been written over a year ago but magically appeared within a one-day span several days ago. I also find it interesting that despite there being a 25 character minimum size limit for a comment, many of the entries are fewer than 25 characters. It would seem unethical to transcribe dated testimonials to make them appear to be guestbook entries. Since I’m quite certain my guestbook entry dated "Apr 5, 2001 – 04:18:42" will be promptly removed from Mr. Gehrke’s site, I have copied it in its entirety and included it here: "I purchased a Gehrke bamboo rod in October of 1999 and wrote a long and thoughtful review of the rod. It was a decent rod despite a few cosmetic flaws (wrap gaps, spotty varnish, dirtiness beneath the varnish primarily at the nodes, use of epoxy instead of varnish on the wraps). Regardless, the rod was arguably worth the $383 despite its imperfections. However, after receiving my rod several of my friends received rods in much poorer condition than mine. In fact, Mr. Gehrke actually had the brazen gall to send the same defective rod to several different individuals. When they returned the rod, he would become angry and make disparaging personal remarks about them on a the fly fishing newsgroup. He would then simply send the same rod to another unsuspecting individual. Mr. Gehrke’s dishonesty and misrepresentation combined with the $100 increased price for the model of rod I purchased make the product one I definitely do NOT recommend. Let the buyer beware." –Steve Zimmerman

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Question:

Our Sir Louie goes by many handles but he just acquied a new one today – "Captain Carp."  We *were*supposed to be steelhead fishing but carp proved to be a bigger attraction. He caught him on a #12 stonefly at the base of the dam in Caledonia. Peter

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Yes and Joe F. caught a small mouth by the tail while salmon fishing on friday, Opppps oh no it’s a sucker ( 12" sucker ) Vern

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Our Sir Louie goes by many handles but he just acquied a new one today – "Captain Carp."  We *were*supposed to be steelhead fishing but carp proved to be a bigger attraction. He caught him on a #12 stonefly at the base of the dam in Caledonia. Peter

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Yes and Joe F. caught a small mouth by the tail while salmon fishing on friday, Opppps oh no it’s a sucker ( 12" sucker )

Yep, it’s true.   Not that I could deny it, since I caught it just updtream of the bridge in front of a dozen witnesses.  (Just don’t start calling me "Captain Sucker".)   Joe F. (Good, now I can leave that out of my trip report.)

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the bridge in front of a dozen witnesses.  (Just don’t start calling me "Captain Sucker".)   Joe F. (Good, now I can leave that out of my trip report.)

Since this won’t be part of the trip report we just hafta ask the questions here! What kinda fly were you using while sucker fishing? Were you sucker fishing down and across, upstream-dead-drift, downstream with a twitching retrieve? What’s a sucker fishing license cost in NY?  Where are the best waters to sucker fish?!  Do you know America’s best sucker fishing rivers? And, lastly, for those who are sure to ask.  What weight sucker fishing rod were you using?  What is the best sucker fishing line? What reel do you recommend for sucker fishing? — Wayne (just helping you to keep it all in one bucket, Joe!) To fish is human….To release Divine! Before you buy.

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Question:

I just got an old willow creel from a friend. The willow look pretty dry and there is no varnish to protect it. Since i want to use it when i’m fly fishing should i put something on it , if so what should i use; Varnish, linseed oil…….or is there any special product i should know of? Thanks for your help! Before you buy.

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I just got an old willow creel from a friend. The willow look pretty dry and there is no varnish to protect it. Since i want to use it when i’m fly fishing should i put something on it , if so what should i use; Varnish, linseed oil…….or is there any special product i should know of?

Yo Robert.   I’m heading down to the fly shop today.   You get the latest FFA yet? Joe F.

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Willow creels require no maintenance apart from a wash now and again. Line the creel with damp grass before placing fish in it. You may also soak the creel in the stream before placing fish in it.  The evaporation which then ensues helps keep the fish cool.  The grass also prevents too much slime from soaking into the creel itself and producing the most horrendous stink. TL MC — "If you have tried everything you know, and nothing works, then perhaps it is time to accept that you don

Question:

How about used Macro lenses…what could I get that would be relatively inexpensive and still provide the ability for an object about 1/4" to fill 35mm ? Thanks, again, very very much. — TimW

        anybody that uses canon equipment has *got* to be a fish-killin’, beer drinkin’ reprobate.         olympus rules!         email me with your detailed needs, buddy, and i will try to find something for you. happy thanksgiving! wayno – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text –

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Tim, These will not fit an EOS mount.  I beleive you can get and FD/EOS adapter, however you lose all your metering functions – not a good thing eh! If you need bellows there are the Novaflex autobellows for EOS, you may have to hunt around for them second hand, I beleive that they are not cheap. Alternatively I use Hoya close-up filters on a 50mm 1.8 lens, these do a good job, you have to be very careful with your focusing and depth of field. Canon now actually make extension tubes for EOS – however I don’t know how much they cost, so you I can’t comment on them. Regards, AS

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: [deleted] : No. The mounts are completely different. FL and FD were the mounts used on : their pre-autofocus SLR cameras such as the FTb, F-1, and T-90. : Is there an adapter ? AutoFocus is unimportant and the TTL metering should : work regardless ? Pasted from my save file: Can any one refer me to some resources on the internet that explain the difference betwen Canon’s FD and EF Lenses?  I also would like to find out the compatibility issues of FD lenses with Canon EOS Cameras?

Canon EF lenses are autofocus (usually with manual focus capability); they fit Canon EOS camera bodies.  Aperture is 100% electronic and can only be set from the camera body.  EF lenses cannot be mounted on a F, A, or T series (FD) camera body; adapters are not available. Canon FD lenses are manual focus only; they fit on the older Canon F, A and T series camera bodies.  Aperture is set on the lens by turning a ring or placed on "A" (or "O") for automatic aperture setting.  FD lenses cannot be mounted on an EOS (autofocus) camera without an adapter. FD/EF adapters are either optical or macro.  Macro adapters will not allow the lens to focus to infinity.  Optical adapters made by Canon are useable only on certain expensive telephoto lenses.  Optical adapters made by 3rd parties are not noted for quality.  When FD lenses are used with any EF adapter, focus will be manual and metering must be performed manually with the lens stopped-down to the taking aperture. Dave Herzstein http://www.kjsl.com/~dave/index.html Bill Jameson

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You can probably achieve fair to good quality if your are careful with tripod mounted camera and close-up lens attachments  that are much cheaper than extension tubes and bellows.  Check with B&H in NY.

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For inexpensive macro shots with an EOS, get a set of independently-made extension tubes I can’t find these….what do I ask for ? What is the best I can hope for on this in terms of ‘magnification’ ?

Kenko is a brand name of some extension tubes.  There are others.  Look in the B&H ads in the mags.  Canon has there own set (more expensive.) Now, as far as ‘magnification’ is concerned, I hope you realize that you are delving into an area of photography where simple one line answers on USENET are not going to serve you well.  Suggest you start reading some books on macro photography. Magnification is a function of object distance (from lens), the focal length of the lens, and the image distance (from lens to film).  Change any one of these three and you will change the magnification.  As an experiment, pick up a plain ‘ol magnifying glass, and focus an image (let’s say from your monitor screen) onto the back of your hand.  Then walk a few feet away and try again.  You’ll notice that the image on your hand is smaller.  What you’ve done is change the object distance and observed the difference in size due to it. Magnification is defined as the image distance divided by the object distance.  Thus the closer you can get to an object the greater the magnification.  Conversely, if you can increase the image distance then you will also get greater magnification. What extension tubes accomplish is the latter.  They move the lens away from the film, thus increasing the magnification. A ring light would be a good light source for your photos of fishing flies. Could this still hook up through the shoe and provide TTL ?

Yes, there are ring lights that will work with EOS and still have TTL flash control. How about used Macro lenses…what could I get that would be relatively inexpensive and still provide the ability for an object about 1/4" to fill 35mm ?

Let’s see, a 35mm frame is 1.5” long, the item is 1/4" long, so the magnification required would be (1.5)/(1/4) = 6.  You are talking ‘real’ macrophotography, it IS NOT the stuff most people think about when they buy the so called 105mm ‘macro’ lenses!  You’d need the bellows unit, and a lens that could work with it.  Canon makes them.  There are third party items as well. Real macrophotography is very involved, and costs bucks. Canon publishes a "Macro" book; B&H has it listed for $18, I suggest you order it. BTW, Canon just came out with a special macro lens that can go to 5x, almost your requirement!  Expect to pay around $1050 for it.  The focal length is only 65mm though. -dan

Response:

Thank you. — TimW, Halfordian Golfer "A Cash Flow Runs Through It…" "Guilt replaced the creel…" B.M.P.I.A. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I saw a Canon Bellows for sale at Ebay.  It said FD/FL mount.  Will this fit an EOS ? No. The mounts are completely different. FL and FD were the mounts used on their pre-autofocus SLR cameras such as the FTb, F-1, and T-90. For inexpensive macro shots with an EOS, get a set of independently-made extension tubes and/or a reverse mount adapter for your normal lens. A ring light would be a good light source for your photos of fishing flies.

Response:

[deleted] No. The mounts are completely different. FL and FD were the mounts used on their pre-autofocus SLR cameras such as the FTb, F-1, and T-90.

Is there an adapter ? AutoFocus is unimportant and the TTL metering should work regardless ? For inexpensive macro shots with an EOS, get a set of independently-made extension tubes

I can’t find these….what do I ask for ? What is the best I can hope for on this in terms of ‘magnification’ ? and/or a reverse mount adapter for your normal lens.

Again…the photo shop here in Podunk didn’t have this…at least not for the EOS…sources ?  I do have magnification filters (+1, +2, +4) and these work so-so…I’ve been putting them all together and just feel really cheesy about it. A ring light would be a good light source for your photos of fishing flies.

Could this still hook up through the shoe and provide TTL ? How about used Macro lenses…what could I get that would be relatively inexpensive and still provide the ability for an object about 1/4" to fill 35mm ? Thanks, again, very very much. — TimW

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I saw a Canon Bellows for sale at Ebay.  It said FD/FL mount.  Will this fit an EOS ? Does anybody have an extension tube/bellows or macro lens they could part with for a fair price ? Lights ? I’m trying to do some photographs of fishing flies for scanning and posting and am very much an amateur with a desire to do a good job. Thanks very much… — TimW

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I saw a Canon Bellows for sale at Ebay.  It said FD/FL mount.  Will this fit an EOS ?

No. The mounts are completely different. FL and FD were the mounts used on their pre-autofocus SLR cameras such as the FTb, F-1, and T-90. For inexpensive macro shots with an EOS, get a set of independently-made extension tubes and/or a reverse mount adapter for your normal lens. A ring light would be a good light source for your photos of fishing flies.

Response:

Question:

<SNIP Another question: Are Midges ever fished Below the surface film? When?

midges or more properly chironomids are best fished with pupae imitations in still water. As the pupae rises slowly through several feet of water before hatching at the surface trout frequently feed on these well below the surface – often just a few feet of the bottom. Long leaders and bead head imitations are popular in many still water locations.

Response:

I regularly fish some nearby ponds.  The most consistent bugs are midges and small mayflies, the trout grow large.  The best fishing often occurs in low light conditions, very early morning or twilight.  Since my eyes aren’t the best, I’ve had to improvise.  I tie a series of dry and damp flies on 18" to 30" pieces of tippet.  If I break one off or need to change flies I just run my hand down the leader until I find the knot and snap off the tippet. Then it’s relatively easy to attach a new tippet with a surgeon’s knot.  I fish from a john boat and arrange the new tippets in the bow of the boat with the hooks in some foam and the lines loosely coiled.  The change only takes a few seconds.  I’ve used the same system on the river with mixed results. Joe   —

Response:

<SNIP Another question: Are Midges ever fished Below the surface film? When?

Hi Bob, years ago all flies were tied to gut or horsehair, and the lengths were attached to the leader as required.  I would advise longer lengths than six inches if you do this, eighteen inches or so probably being better. Longer pieces get progressively more unmanageable. You will need to use "cast carriers" as well to keep your stuff from tangling, these can be as simple as pieces of card with slits cut in them to wrap the tippet and fly around. Loops as you suggest at six inches or less, that near your fly would just cause a mess, and ruin your presentation, as knots probably would too. I have seen an elderly gentleman using old plastic line spools with a piece of foam stuck to both sides  for this as well, he had a couple of about twenty four inch lengths wrapped round the spool, and the fly stuck in the foam.  Seemed to work OK. He was knotting the tippet directly to the end of his leader. If I was obliged to do this I would consider using the tiny silver rings available for this purpose, and attaching these to the end of the leader, then just attach the tippet with an improved clinch. These are very small, but a great deal easier to thread than a small fly eye. Midges can be fished very successfully just below the film, most especially pupa imitations. This is particularly effective during a rise of course. Adult midges may also be fished sub-surface. In cases where the trout are feeding on indeterminate minutiae a cream midge size 22 has worked quite well for me, although I very rarely fish flies this small usually. This may be fished at any depth, though not too deep seems to work best. Nymphing with a black or brown midge pupa is often very successful indeed. TL MC

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I regularly fish some nearby ponds.  The most consistent bugs are midges and small mayflies, the trout grow large.  The best fishing often occurs in low light conditions, very early morning or twilight.  Since my eyes aren’t the best, I’ve had to improvise.  I tie a series of dry and damp flies on 18" to 30" pieces of tippet.  If I break one off or need to change flies I just run my hand down the leader until I find the knot and snap off the tippet. Then it’s relatively easy to attach a new tippet with a surgeon’s knot.  I fish from a john boat and arrange the new tippets in the bow of the boat with the hooks in some foam and the lines loosely coiled.  The change only takes a few seconds.  I’ve used the same system on the river with mixed results. Joe –I have the same problem.  I haven’t tried it yet, but am going to pretie tippets to fly, but longer tippets.  I would store theam coiled up in small zip-lock bags,( suach as tying materials come in) with a piece of paper or cardboard inside with specs of conteants.  Jusst make sure you have a leader straightener with you.  Also Ernie Harrisons knot machine works great and faastens to vest.

Response:

Hi All, I have had the same problem.  I came up with 3 solutions. 1.  I purchased magnifier glasses called Flip Focus which attach to my sunglasses and can be purchased in varying powers.  Try Bob Marriotts in Southern California. 2.  I tie my tiny flies on Orvis large eye hooks. 3.  I use an Orvis threader box which contains a bunch of different sized threaders.  As stated by V. Ursenbach, these threaders will not work on very small flies.  However, with the Orvis large eye hooks I have had no problems.  So far, that is. Pete

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Hello: I would appreciate any opinions on the following: Looking at some REALLY small midge flies I recently received, and appreciating my eyesight degrading a bit each year, I am thinking about pre-tying a length of, perhaps, 6 inches of #7 tippet to each fly now, in the comfort of my warm kitchen. Trying to do it on the stream seems like it would be an exercise in near futility for me. I have enough troubles threading a size 12 or 14 fly these days. I guess I would also tie a loop in the other end, and use a loop to loop connection to the #6 or #7 regular leader tippet I have on the end of my line. -Does this sound reasonable? -Loop to loop only 6" from the fly-present any new, unique, problems? Another question: Are Midges ever fished Below the surface film? When? Thanks, Bob

Response:

You can fish midges any way you want, surface, in the film or below the film.  They work anytime a hatch is going on or not.  Midges are versitile meaning they are everywhere all the time.  Fish them below the surface with a sinktip, no need to even strip, just let it sit. The results can be surprising.  The loop connection may work, I don’t see why not.  Make them in different lengths so you can see if there is a difference. Good Luck, Forrest — Forrest http://www.FlyFishingREVIEW.com FlyFishingREVIEW.com Before you buy.

Response:

A cheaper solution than even this is a needle threader, available at the sewing notions section of you local store. . . .

One problem with this option: the needle threader will not go through the eye of a small midge. Sometimes I use #18 & #20 hooks and find the eye only large enough to push a single strand of line through.  I should say that I use 7X leader.  If I try to fold the line and push it through to make a polymer knot or such like knot the hook eye is to small.  Pushing a needle threader, which has a rounded end and double thickness of wire, is therefore impossible.  Especially when you try to put the leader in the loop and pull the threader back through with the doubled line.  When you pull it through there is now 2 thickness of line and 2 thickness or wire.  If the eye is to small to put 2 thickness of line through, how can 2 thickness of line and 2 thickness of wire go through?  It’s a nice idea, but it just will not work. Vern

Response:

I have been interested in this thread, too. I often use small flies (#18-22) and light tippets (7X). The light tippet lacks the rigidity to "poke around ’til ya hit the hole." And my eyesight… no it’s the tippet material. That’s my story, and I’m sticking to it… Anyway, I did some testing yesterday (Sunday 11/14). I bought needle threaders at a fabric/sewing store: 3 for 99 cents. I tried the threader on a #20 midge. It didn’t work at first. I then smashed the wire to a sharp point. It didn’t work,  either. I then used the "eye cleaner" on my clipper to completely clear the eye. The flattened wire went through it fine. I pulled through 5X tippet material.  Some one mentioned it may bruise to tippet material, so I used as little on the tag end as I could. I clipped the suspect part of the tippet and tied my too-many-turn clinch knot. I have attached the needle threader to my vest. Brad in Houston

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – A cheaper solution than even this is a needle threader, available at the sewing notions section of you local store. . . . One problem with this option: the needle threader will not go through the eye of a small midge. Sometimes I use #18 & #20 hooks and find the eye only large enough to push a single strand of line through.  I should say that I use 7X leader.  If I try to fold the line and push it through to make a polymer knot or such like knot the hook eye is to small.  Pushing a needle threader, which has a rounded end and double thickness of wire, is therefore impossible.  Especially when you try to put the leader in the loop and pull the threader back through with the doubled line.  When you pull it through there is now 2 thickness of line and 2 thickness or wire.  If the eye is to small to put 2 thickness of line through, how can 2 thickness of line and 2 thickness of wire go through?  It’s a nice idea, but it just will not work. Vern

Response:

Bob- something I’ve been doig for about four years now for late evening fishing with midges and other small flies, too! I use about a 10-12" piece of tippet material and leave the end plain than use a surgeon’s knot to tie it into my leader….. great for the early mornings when the arthritic fingers haven’t started working yet either! I use clear film cans to store the flies with a small piece of funfoam on the hook points so they don’t tangle…. cut slits down the sides of the film can from the top rim and then slide the tippet through the slit so you can store them individually…. I get 6 or 8 in a can. Personally, I don’t care for loop to loop, especially when I’m fishing something that small and on that light of a leader…it adds two more knots into the equation and increases the chance of failure even more in my mind. As for below the film? Yeah, when they get slimed or forced under by a ripple… I mean short of ca cripple midge, I prefer to fish em on the surface and like using either CDC  as a "loop post" or white Arctic Fox mask as a post to increase visibility. Larry #:)#

Response:

Hi Bob, I’ve seen  a fly box that has sprung steel threaders on which you store the flies.  When you need to tie one on you place the tippet thorugh the threader remove the fly already threaded.  This will certainly help with 12’s, 14 and 16 but I’m not sure whether smaller flies will fit. Perhaps its worth a look. Steve

Response:

Steve: <<Hi Bob, I’ve seen  a fly box that has sprung steel threaders on which you store the flies.  When you need to tie one on you place the tippet thorugh the threader remove the fly already threaded.  This will certainly help with 12’s, 14 and 16 but I’m not sure whether smaller flies will fit. Perhaps its worth a look. Orvis sells two.  For $39 and $28!  Yikes!  Go to an Orvis store and see if it will take 18-22.  Probably will.  I have the same problem, Bob, but I have solved it by using fold-down magnifiers.  You can get them in different magnification powers.  Cheaper than the Orvis trick box. Dave L.

Response:

0] : Steve: : <<Hi Bob, : I’ve seen  a fly box that has sprung steel threaders on which you store : the flies.  When you need to tie one on you place the tippet thorugh the : threader remove the fly already threaded.  This will certainly help : with 12’s, 14 and 16 but I’m not sure whether smaller flies will fit. : Perhaps its worth a look. : Orvis sells two.  For $39 and $28!  Yikes!  Go to an Orvis store and : see if it will take 18-22.  Probably will.  I have the same problem, : Bob, but I have solved it by using fold-down magnifiers.  You can : get them in different magnification powers.  Cheaper than the : Orvis trick box. : Dave L. A cheaper solution than even this is a needle threader, available at the sewing notions section of you local store, three to a package, about $1. It’s a loop of fine music wire staked to a dime sized piece of thin aluminum. You’ll need to pinch the tip of the threader down a bit with pliers or forceps to fit hook eyes–its oblong for needle eyes as it comes. You poke it through the hook eye, put the tippet through the loop and pull it back through. It bruises the tippet a little bit where the wire pulls on it, so discard that little tag end. I find I can pull 5x through #22 eyes, no problem. They last anywhere from 0 to 100 threadings, so carry spares, they’re cheap. I have mine, attached with a bit of mono through a hole punched in the aluminum, on the same zinger as my tippet nipper. A bit of super glue where the wire is attached to the aluminum does help the durability. Mike — Michael McGuire                     Hewlett Packard Laboratories  (remove x’s from email if not      Palo Alto, CA 94303-0971   a spammer) Phone: (650)-857-5491              

Response:

When fishing light tippets, a longer tippet gives you more protection from break offs because of its ability to stretch. I’ve been tempted to pretie tippets but I couldn’t come up with a good way to store them and keep them from tangling in my vest. Instead, I keep a cheap pair of reading glasses in my vest (even though I don’t REALLY need them for reading). I buy at the Dollar store and usually get 2X strength. They help alot. Midges can be fished anywhere in the water column from the film on down. Deep nymphing with midges is very popular on tailwaters.  I was out on my home river (not a tailwater) this AM. The only thing coming off were a few midges. Nothing was rising or sipping but I caught several fish on a 22 midge drifted along the bottom of the runs at the heads of several pools. I came across a huge, dead, hook jawed Brown of about 26". Too old to handle the rigors of spawning, I guess. Willi – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Hello: I would appreciate any opinions on the following: Looking at some REALLY small midge flies I recently received, and appreciating my eyesight degrading a bit each year, I am thinking about pre-tying a length of, perhaps, 6 inches of #7 tippet to each fly now, in the comfort of my warm kitchen. Trying to do it on the stream seems like it would be an exercise in near futility for me. I have enough troubles threading a size 12 or 14 fly these days. I guess I would also tie a loop in the other end, and use a loop to loop connection to the #6 or #7 regular leader tippet I have on the end of my line. -Does this sound reasonable? -Loop to loop only 6" from the fly-present any new, unique, problems? Another question: Are Midges ever fished Below the surface film? When? Thanks, Bob

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…Looking at some REALLY small midge flies I recently received, and appreciating my eyesight degrading a bit each year, I am thinking about pre-tying a length of, perhaps, 6 inches of #7 tippet to each fly now, in the comfort of my warm kitchen.

There are a couple of problems with this idea.  First, six inches of tippet is much to short for just about any circumstances.  This puts your knot in a very visible location in addition  to doing horrible things to the mechanics of casting.  Second, appropriate tippet length is highly variable and depends on the situation at hand.  For example, in very slow clear water one would ordinarily use a greater length of tippet in order to keep the fly as far as possible from the fly line, and to allow a more natural looking drift.  Since a very long tippet can make casting more difficult (just as a very short one can) one can’t simply always use the long one either.  Third, appropriate tippet diameter is also variable and for the same reasons as above.  Fourth, tippet material is hard enough to keep under control when it is on a spool.  Having a bunch of flies in your vest with lengths of tippet attached would cause a nightmare of snarling and unintended knots. All in all, I think it is much better to acquire and use whatever corrective eye wear you can find. Good luck.

Response:

Hello: I would appreciate any opinions on the following: Looking at some REALLY small midge flies I recently received, and appreciating my eyesight degrading a bit each year, I am thinking about pre-tying a length of, perhaps, 6 inches of #7 tippet to each fly now, in the comfort of my warm kitchen. Trying to do it on the stream seems like it would be an exercise in near futility for me. I have enough troubles threading a size 12 or 14 fly these days. I guess I would also tie a loop in the other end, and use a loop to loop connection to the #6 or #7 regular leader tippet I have on the end of my line. -Does this sound reasonable? -Loop to loop only 6" from the fly-present any new, unique, problems? Another question: Are Midges ever fished Below the surface film? When? Thanks, Bob

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Question:

Hi all, Just thought I’d let everyone know that I caught my first trout ever on a fly rod yesterday. Man, what a thrill. Although I’m basically a "live-bait on a spin reel person", I’ve messed around with my "fly outfit" the last couple of years. Never had much success until yesterday though. Not a bad sized rainbow either. Around 11". Oh well, I’m sure this is no big deal to most of you but I just had to tell someone. Everyone in my family has no clue as to what it’s like. I figure you all do. See ya on the streams!!!!! Tom

Congratulations on the first trout on a fly! Got mine last summer.  Went t some state parks in southeast Minnesota in mid august.  Caught my first on a #12 Wolly Bugger a 12"Rainbow. caught the rest – a total of 14 browns from 8-13 inches mostly on my own design— a kind of peacock and guinea soft hackle that looks like a small minnow when wet.  Don’t know what to call it. Biggest thrill was casting about 40 ft across the river at Forrestville, having a 12" brown jump out of the water with the fly in its mouth, run half way across the river to me and do a double flip 10 feet in front of me!  Talk about getting hooked on fly fishing!  WOW! I will be going back this year to MN or Wisconsen to repeat the fun! Good luck, Ken — Remove NO-SPAM- from return address to e-mail me. Sorry, but this is to discourage spammers and auto junk mail generators. Ken Wells "When In Doubt….Go fishing."

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– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Hi all, Just thought I’d let everyone know that I caught my first trout ever on a fly rod yesterday. Man, what a thrill. Although I’m basically a "live-bait on a spin reel person", I’ve messed around with my "fly outfit" the last couple of years. Never had much success until yesterday though. Not a bad sized rainbow either. Around 11". Oh well, I’m sure this is no big deal to most of you but I just had to tell someone. Everyone in my family has no clue as to what it’s like. I figure you all do. See ya on the streams!!!!! Tom Tom, Nice going with the first trout…I am also relatively new (<2 yrs) and enjoy hearing about people and fly fishing. Of course the next step done this road-to-ruin is fly tying….no rush, take your time, but getting your first trout on a fly you tird is also outstanding…. As you can probably tell, I’m consumed by this experience called fly fishing….if I only didn’t have to work…… — John Carney          Fly Fisher & Parrot Head (NO-SPAM in address to avoid spamming)

And I’ll bet that, just for a minute or two, while you were landing thiat first trout, you considered throwing away ALL your baitcasting and spinning gear.  Welcome to the Club!! Mac McCaskill

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Trout hit my first two casts hard, and kept hitting every type of dry fly I used aggressively all day. I missed a ton of good strikes (sure could use some advice on setting the hook correctly),

Tom; You note that you missed these aggressive strikes.  That happens because (often) an aggresively striking wild fish is hanging-out under/around some current somewhere near the bottom.  He sees your fly (food) and shoots up, slamming the fly and zips right back down to the bottom as fast as a Rattle-snake strike.  Well, unlike a natural fly, yours has a leader attached to it.  I’m sure that you have noticed how much force water can exert on your line.  This happens with the fly.  The drag of the tippet can pull the fly from the fish’s mouth, or cause him to "spit it out" before you can set the hook.  I have noticed this a lot recently while fishing emergers during the sulfur hatch.  WHACK!… nothing. Jason Beary

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Congratulations on the first trout on a fly! Got mine last summer.  Went t some state parks in southeast Minnesota in mid august.  Caught my first on a #12 Wolly Bugger a 12"Rainbow. caught the rest – a total of 14 browns from 8-13 inches mostly on my own design— a kind of peacock and guinea soft hackle that looks like a small minnow when wet.  Don’t know what to call it.

A bug. John Fereira

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[snipped] Just thought I’d let everyone know that I caught my first trout ever on a fly rod yesterday.

[snipped] Well done Tom!  Nice innitt? On a more serious note(!)  You are now in danger of becoming the best Definition: The best angler in the world = whichever angler at that given instant in time is enjoying themselves the most. richard

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Congratulations Tom, I too caught my first, a 14" Brown, on Wednesday in the Clear Fork river (Ohio).    It was a store-bought fly, but that didn’t make it any less exciting.   Like you, nobody around me has any clue what its like. Bob  

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Hi, Congratulations. I had the same problem,  so I bought my fiance her own kit,  now she joins me on all the trips,  and the best is that she is not using my expensive rods. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Hey Tom: <<Oh well, I’m sure this is no big deal to most of you but I just had to tell someone. Everyone in my family has no clue as to what it’s like. I figure you all do. It is a "big deal". The outdoor learning process can sometimes be frustrating when there is no father, brother, aunt or uncle to answer your questions or share your experiences. So…, thanks for taking the time and sharing with us. Congratulations! Tight lines, Joe

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Congratulations, Seems just like yesterday … so many years now. Next will be that monster brown on a fly you tied.  Nothing beats the feeling of a first anything.  I don’t know about others on ROFF but there is still nothing like splash of an eager trout or the slurp of the grandfather of all trout. That’s just a feeling that never gets old. Corey http://www.ncweb.com:80/users/crbock/

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Hi all, Just thought I’d let everyone know that I caught my first trout ever on a fly rod yesterday. Man, what a thrill.

Just wanted to drop my 2 cents in, too. I fished the Great Smoky Mountain National Park last weekend, doing some very deep, hike-in mountain stream fishing, and had the best day of dry fly fishing in my short (about 1 year) career fly fishing. Trout hit my first two casts hard, and kept hitting every type of dry fly I used aggressively all day. I missed a ton of good strikes (sure could use some advice on setting the hook correctly), but I did bring in an 11-inch wild mountain rainbow. My God, what a fish this was! Never seen that kind of coloring before. These fish are naturally reproducing, wild trout (even though their ancestors were imported to the area and stocked until the 1970s). Even so, this guy fought hard, jumped at least 12 times, and left me speechless at having takien my first wild trout in such a beautiful setting. For you Midwestern FFers, I have a story on FFing in the Smokies coming up in the summer issue of Midwest Fly Fishing magazine that provides local contact numbers and other information. E-mail me off-list if you want more information. Dave McCarty

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Hey Tom:

<<Oh well, I’m sure this is no big deal to most of you but I just had to tell someone. Everyone in my family has no clue as to what it’s like. I figure you all do. It is a "big deal". The outdoor learning process can sometimes be frustrating when there is no father, brother, aunt or uncle to answer your questions or share your experiences. So…, thanks for taking the time and sharing with us. Congratulations! Tight lines, Joe

Response:

Hi all, Just thought I’d let everyone know that I caught my first trout ever on a fly rod yesterday. Man, what a thrill. Although I’m basically a "live-bait on a spin reel person", I’ve messed around with my "fly outfit" the last couple of years. Never had much success until yesterday though. Not a bad sized rainbow either. Around 11". Oh well, I’m sure this is no big deal to most of you but I just had to tell someone. Everyone in my family has no clue as to what it’s like. I figure you all do. See ya on the streams!!!!! Tom

Tom, Nice going with the first trout…I am also relatively new (<2 yrs) and enjoy hearing about people and fly fishing. Of course the next step done this road-to-ruin is fly tying….no rush, take your time, but getting your first trout on a fly you tird is also outstanding…. As you can probably tell, I’m consumed by this experience called fly fishing….if I only didn’t have to work…… — John Carney          Fly Fisher & Parrot Head (NO-SPAM in address to avoid spamming)

Response:

Hi all, Just thought I’d let everyone know that I caught my first trout ever on a fly rod yesterday. Man, what a thrill. Although I’m basically a "live-bait on a spin reel person", I’ve messed around with my "fly outfit" the last couple of years. Never had much success until yesterday though. Not a bad sized rainbow either. Around 11". Oh well, I’m sure this is no big deal to most of you but I just had to tell someone. Everyone in my family has no clue as to what it’s like. I figure you all do. See ya on the streams!!!!! Tom

Response:

Hi all, Just thought I’d let everyone know that I caught my first trout ever on a fly rod yesterday. Man, what a thrill. Although I’m basically a "live-bait on a spin reel person", I’ve messed around with my "fly outfit" the last couple of years. Never had much success until yesterday though. Not a bad sized rainbow either. Around 11". Oh well, I’m sure this is no big deal to most of you but I just had to tell someone. Everyone in my family has no clue as to what it’s like. I figure you all do. See ya on the streams!!!!! Tom

didja et it…? — TimW Halfordian Golfer

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Question:

Thanks to all for their input.   As for now…It’s practice, practice, practice

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I am new to fly casting and looking for some comments.  I have heard that the "correct" cast has little  or no wrist action and the "correct" cast has plenty of quick wrist action.  Any opinions for a beginner?  btw- both methods seem to work with the wrist version feeling more natural.  No fighting now, just opinions.

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IMHO flycasting is really counter intuitive.  Everything your body tells you is right, isn’t.  What starts out feeling awkward – works.  Once you understand how a fly rod works, then how you need to move it makes sense.

My observation is that this is especially true if you start thinking about it too much… If you simply focus on the fish and the objective at hand, the fly simply ends up right…. …in the top of a tree… TimW

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IMHO flycasting is really counter intuitive.  Everything your body tells you is right, isn’t.  What starts out feeling awkward – works.  Once you understand how a fly rod works, then how you need to move it makes sense.

Dan,         I started to take exception to your statement, thought about it a moment, and realized…. I was lousy at sports my whole life.  It’s a wonder I can even throw a ball, and don’t expect me to throw it accurately. And, I’m left-handed.  My whole life is about awkward!  So, what do I know about how normal motion should feel? Tight lines, and keep your line off the handle, Charley

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I frimly beleive thta Lefty Kreh’s methods work the best. Find a book or video that he has done and try to employ his methods. A lot of what he taught me was employed fishing in harsh weather and in tournaments. Lefty uses his arms and shoulders more than wrist. Tight lines!! Ron

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I am new to fly casting and looking for some comments.  I have heard that the "correct" cast has little  or no wrist action and the "correct" cast has plenty of quick wrist action.  Any opinions for a beginner?  btw- both methods seem to work with the wrist version feeling more natural.  No fighting now, just opinions.

In actuality Baglock, how you move the rod doesn’t matter to the rod as long as you move the right distance for the appropriate amount of line with the right acceleration.  Doesn’t care what muscles you use either. If you move the rod in the correct manner you will get a good cast. Then the trick is to be able to repeat it over and over and be accurate and be comfortable all day when doing it.  To meet those criteria I recommend you try to use your forearm as an entire unit and try not to use your wrist at all.  Now the cast can’t actually be done well or easily without a final touch of wrist in each direction, but it is a VERY SMALL movement of the wrist.  If you try not to move your wrist you will probably move it about right, if you try to use your wrist you will move it too much. If you use your forearm as the main lever, you are using a big lever with strong muscles and only one real moving part – the elbow. Fewer variables, more reliable predictions and results.  If you use your wrist to make the cast you are using your hand – a tiny lever, your forearm muscles – which are much weaker than your biceps and triceps, and you have about 12? points of movement in your wrist making it much more difficult to reliably repeat the needed movements.  IMHO flycasting is really counter intuitive.  Everything your body tells you is right, isn’t.  What starts out feeling awkward – works.  Once you understand how a fly rod works, then how you need to move it makes sense. If you have trouble picking it up then here are some options: 1) take a casting lesson (best and fastest way to learn either small group or private) 2) join a local fly fishing club (great for all facets of FF and many offer lessons though quality of instructionmay vary from outstanding to barely OK . 3) get a copy of Mel Krieger’s "Essence of Flycasting (vol.1)"                           Hope this helps,                                   Dan Dan Gracia                                                               Orvis West Coast Fly Fishing Schools If you kill that big fish you can’t catch ‘em again.  So what if they eat other fish?  If you kill the big ones there will only be little ones left (funny how that works!).

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I am new to fly casting and looking for some comments.  I have heard that the "correct" cast has little  or no wrist action and the "correct" cast

Try the no wrist movement. It provides a tigher cast. Make sure your thumb is on the top of the handle and you should see it at 12 oclock when you stop on the back cast.

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I am new to fly casting and looking for some comments.  I have heard that the "correct" cast has little  or no wrist action and the "correct" cast has plenty of quick wrist action.  Any opinions for a beginner?  btw- both methods seem to work with the wrist version feeling more natural.  No fighting now, just opinions. Any good fly shop should be able to provide you with a good book and video on fly casting.  In the meantime, if you tie the end of the butt

section of your rod to your forearm and cast it, you’ll get the idea of how the cast should feel when properly done.  If you break your wrist on the back cast, you’ll likely increase your chances of bringing the tip back too far and slapping your line on the water behind you.  The same is true for the forward cast.  Good luck. Stan

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I am new to fly casting and looking for some comments.  I have heard that the "correct" cast has little  or no wrist action and the "correct" cast has plenty of quick wrist action.  Any opinions for a beginner?  btw- both methods seem to work with the wrist version feeling more natural.  No fighting now, just opinions.

I found the recent article in the September 96 issue of Fly Fisherman (Correcting 5 Casting Mistakes) to be very helpful.  Check it out. Team OS/2                  847.808.3913

Response:

I am new to fly casting and looking for some comments.  I have heard that the "correct" cast has little  or no wrist action and the "correct" cast has plenty of quick wrist action.  Any opinions for a beginner?  btw- both methods seem to work with the wrist version feeling more natural.  No fighting now, just opinions.

Three thoughts come to mind: 1)      Devote some time to practice in your yard or at the park.  It’ll be easier         to focus on the casting when there is no chance of catching fish 2)      When my casting seems a little difficult, I focus on my backcast.  I try to         visualize abruptly opening a freezer door (like the ones on fridges where the freezer         section is on top).  While this may sound whacky, it usually serves to elevate and tighten         my backcast.  For me, casting troubles are usually rooted in a faulty backcast. 3)      Practice enough to feel the fod flex under the weight of the line. When you can feel         the rod at work, you will quickly be able to cast well.  You’ll also be able to adjust         to different rod actions because it will seem natural to adjust your stroke to maintain         the feeling of the rod at work. There are lots of helpful books on the subject.  Different conditions, rods, and target situations will have you using lots of wrist sometimes and little or no wrist other times. Hope this helps, August Kristoferson http://www.eskimo.com/~augustk

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I am new to fly casting and looking for some comments.  I have heard that the "correct" cast has little  or no wrist action and the "correct" cast has plenty of quick wrist action.  Any opinions for a beginner?  btw- both methods seem to work with the wrist version feeling more natural.  No fighting now, just opinions.

Response:

I am new to fly casting and looking for some comments.  I have heard that the "correct" cast has little  or no wrist action and the "correct" cast has plenty of quick wrist action.  Any opinions for a beginner?  btw- both methods seem to work with the wrist version feeling more natural.  No fighting now, just opinions.

Definitely no wrist action, use your arm.  Rod tip should be traveling in a straight line. — The views expressed are my own and does not represent those of my employer.

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Question:

 Should I buy a Sage Discovery or  St. Croix’s, top of  the line, Legend which cost’s as much as the Sage

 Is there a noticeable difference  between the two rods that would aid or hinder a biginning caster?

  I also looked at the St. Croix Imperial,  for a $120.  Are there any other rods that I should be aware of?

Go to the flyshop and ask to try them.  Most shops will gladly let you do that.  There is a very big difference between these rods.  I haven’t tried the Sage Discovery but I use St.Croix rods a lot.  There are significant differences in the action of the Legend, Imperial and Pro.  You need to determine how fast or slow you want the action.  That’s best done by casting and it’s best to be able to stand there and go from one to the other so you feel the difference.

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I have a $200 credit at a local FF shop, which carries Sage, G. Loomis, and St. Croix rods. Should I buy a Sage Discovery or  St. Croix’s, top of the line, Legend which cost’s as much as the Sage (I couldn’t find a Loomis rod, in stock, for under $200)?  Is there a noticeable difference between the two rods that would aid or hinder a biginning caster?  Would I soon "out-grow" the Sage rod?  I also looked at the St. Croix Imperial, for a $120.  Are there any other rods that I should be aware of? I would welcome any advice, to help me choose a rod? Thank you  in advance.    

Take your $200, add about 50 bucks to it and buy a Loomis GL3.  The GL3 is in a whole other class than the Sage DS or St, Croix. John Woodling Sacramento, CA

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Go with the St. Croix. Both their lower end rods are the same in fact, but one comes with a fancy rod tube and wood reel seat, otherwise no difference. They’re all great rods. i suggest not buying their top of the line model if you’re just getting started. It’s a bit faster then the other and not really necessary. As far as outgrowing it, not a problem. But eventually you will want to expand you collection inot different weights and lengths — all part of the mania. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I’m just getting into fly fishing and will be buying my first rod (a 8′ 6" 5-6 wt) shortly.   I have a $200 credit at a local FF shop, which carries Sage, G. Loomis, and St. Croix rods. Should I buy a Sage Discovery or  St. Croix’s, top of the line, Legend which cost’s as much as the Sage (I couldn’t find a Loomis rod, in stock, for under $200)?  Is there a noticeable difference between the two rods that would aid or hinder a biginning caster?  Would I soon "out-grow" the Sage rod?  I also looked at the St. Croix Imperial, for a $120.  Are there any other rods that I should be aware of? I would welcome any advice, to help me choose a rod? Thank you  in advance.     Rick

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: I have a $200 credit at a local FF shop, which carries Sage, G. Loomis, : and St. Croix rods. Should I buy a Sage Discovery or  St. Croix’s, top of : the line, Legend which cost’s as much as the Sage (I couldn’t find a : Loomis rod, in stock, for under $200)?  Is there a noticeable difference : between the two rods that would aid or hinder a biginning caster?  Would I : soon "out-grow" the Sage rod?  I also looked at the St. Croix Imperial, : for a $120.  Are there any other rods that I should be aware of? If that flyshop that you have credit at won’t let you take the rods outside to practice cast them, take your credit elsewhere! My experience has been that the customer may like the cheaper outfit better than the top-of-the-line stuff!  We always give people the opportunity to cast a rod before buying it. That way, they know exactly what they are getting. they are all good rods that you are considering. Jon Porter

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- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I’m just getting into fly fishing and will be buying my first rod (a 8′ 6" 5-6 wt) shortly.   I have a $200 credit at a local FF shop, which carries Sage, G. Loomis, and St. Croix rods. Should I buy a Sage Discovery or  St. Croix’s, top of the line, Legend which cost’s as much as the Sage (I couldn’t find a Loomis rod, in stock, for under $200)?  Is there a noticeable difference between the two rods that would aid or hinder a biginning caster?  Would I soon "out-grow" the Sage rod?  I also looked at the St. Croix Imperial, for a $120.  Are there any other rods that I should be aware of? I would welcome any advice, to help me choose a rod? Thank you  in advance.     Rick

Hi Rick, the comparison you make is one between a Geo Metro (St. Croix) and a lower class Porsche (SAGE rod). What do you mean with outgrow. = The SAGE performs so well that you will probably never outgrow this rod. A few years ago is was the state-of-the-art rod before the = development of the Graphite3-material. If you want a little bit more in performance choose the SAGE over the St. Croix. The SAGE is = a much better balanced rod with lots of backbone to cast a whole line with a weighted stonefly nymph and enough sensitivity to fish = for large finicky trout with a small midge imitation. The 9ft 8wt DS is my standard rod for striper. It’s not overly stiff so that I=  have a kind of buffer to fight a large fish and still can throw a whole fly line. The 8ft5wtDS is a great trout and grayling rod wh= ich allows a smooth presentation and roll-casting far beyond the usual fishing distance. Some of the high end St. Croix might be a little bit stiffer and might outperform the SAGE on really long casts but sacrifice on smo= othness and sensitivity in the short distance range. If you really want a good rod for under $200 there is only one choice: SAGE (BTW, there are not many choices over $200- No, I am not=  a SAGE affiliate; I am only casting, fishing, and comparing other rods from time to time and the rods where I usually end (because = they outperform others by far) is …. – except split cane, of course!)            Thomas

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: I got a Scientific Anglers kit at Wall Mart for $50.00. It seems to work : just fine. I’m so inexperienced I don’t think I would know a good rod from : a bad. My next door neighbor is teaching me to cast and that has really : helped. Trust me.  You would know a really great rod from a really bad one. But the Sci. Anglers are pretty good starter kits.  Even better are the Redington Redstart kits ($100 with a lifetime warrantee). — Laboratory for Applied Logic    Dept. of Computer Science University of Idaho             www: http://www.cs.uidaho.edu/~foster —–BEGIN PGP PUBLIC KEY BLOCK—– Version: 2.6.2 mQCNAzDtvLEAAAEEAKAC21G2Be0K0DMgjLpxrwLmsYfCz8rWcfgyABjr3Ryfk1dO nV7fFFpUF3xohR7die+/B2V9oqRQzTLeSF2ECKlsTY/yUyw2kn+P2ju1umh4Fwzd cVTvc+H69q1+Ft3kmw/PE0Pan+g0PUGGJ43stw3q4OgBHdixbRd/f9giJFDxAAUR tCZKYW1lcyBBLiBGb3N0ZXIgPGZvc3RlckBjcy51aWRhaG8uZWR1PokAlQMFEDD8 ReEXf3/YIiRQ8QEBFrAD/2AFuRWcD/3MENC3qJMC/Or1qxknjkK7Uv+TDf2LHPOY GHBbG9PyWuXQ8of0Dd+JYwf/tzlO9Yk1s1zTdikfriak21FW0bCokxDIhA3myppZ IZDWVA9CyvDYHuP5Ii1NkBvocab813JzDLZA+0iVN5sebGb9zSXR4Za47hlriHeP =RDHK —–END PGP PUBLIC KEY BLOCK—–

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I got a Scientific Anglers kit at Wall Mart for $50.00. It seems to work just fine. I’m so inexperienced I don’t think I would know a good rod from a bad. My next door neighbor is teaching me to cast and that has really helped. Stumbling along the fly fishing stream Ed

in 5 years that 500 rod will feel foriegn and that 50 bucker will fit like worn tennis shoes…

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Call Cabelas and ask if they still have their 95′ models on sale for up to 50% off. I spent $150.00 for mine a couple of weeks ago and couldn’t ask for a better rod. It casts similarly to the GL3 by Loomis in my opinion, and you get 60 free days to try it. Good luck.DLowe

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I got a Scientific Anglers kit at Wall Mart for $50.00. It seems to work just fine. I’m so inexperienced I don’t think I would know a good rod from a bad. My next door neighbor is teaching me to cast and that has really helped. Stumbling along the fly fishing stream Ed

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Should I buy a Sage Discovery or  St. Croix’s, top of  the line, Legend which cost’s as much as the Sage Is there a noticeable difference  between the two rods that would aid or hinder a biginning caster?  I also looked at the St. Croix Imperial,  for a $120.  Are there any other rods that I should be aware of?

Well, over the past several months I have made several posts in favor of St. Croix Legends as a good economical alternative fly rod.  I am by no means an expert fly caster, but I do end up at the practice ponds 3 to 4 times a week after work trying to nail down the proper technique.   I purchased, within the past 9 months, 3 St. Croix Legend fly rods.  A 4 weight, 6 weight, and 8 weight.  The 4 and 6 were offered to me for a very very good price, so I bit and planned to use them as backup rods since I am a little rough with fishing equipment.  My findings:  the Legends are indeed stiff (fast), and I needed to go up at least one complete line weight to load the rod the way I prefer. In fact, I was so disappointed in the 6 weight as a big open water trout rod that I have now resorted to using it as a shad rod with a 7 or 8 shooting head, which BTW, is working out very very nicely to my surprise. The 4 weight was originally a 3/4, but no way is it a 3 weight.  In fact, St. Croix uses this blank for ‘95 as a their standard 4 weight.  I get best results with a 5 line.  The 8 weight is good and is my first 8 weight rod, a learning rod, and to use for those ocassional trips for stripers here in Calif. I chose St. Croix after comparing it with the GL3.  I have been tossing a 9 shooting head and can CONTROL my loops and get 80-90 feet before my running line gets its usual attitude.  The accomplished casters have taken the same rod and tossed 120 feet plus, so it ain’t the rod.  For heavy applications, the Legends, like the GL3s, are solid economical choices, just heavy.  Heed the advice of others, try the rods out with a sales person that will take the time to check if your casting properly with good techinique because all fly rods will feel like crap if your not casting properly. Believe me, when I go to the practice ponds with my RPLs, LLs and the Legends, I would rather be throwing the RPLs and LLs.  The motto, you get what you pay for just like most other things in life.   — Howard P/S  Those new Lamiglass LHS-2 are very nice and worth consideration, but I don’t know their price point.

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: Take your $200, add about 50 bucks to it and buy a Loomis GL3.  The GL3 is : in a whole other class than the Sage DS or St, Croix. I have to respectfully disagree with John.  Many beginners get frustrated with that first year of *very* few fish.  I would start cheap and then buy up if you decide the sport is for you.  I’ve used the Sage Discovery and think it is a pretty good buy for a new guy and if you stay with it, can be used in the future for an inexperienced buddy you drag along after you purchase better.  I also think the Reddington Redspot is a true bargain at $99.00.  Rick Bob says check it out. — Rick T. Rick Fletcher   –   http://www.chem.uidaho.edu/~fletcher/ Assistant professor of chemistry  |  That’s Idaho, not Iowa.    | ad hominem University of Idaho               |  Upper Left Hand Corner.    | ad hominem Moscow, ID 83844-2343             |  No, I don’t grow potatoes. | ad hominem

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Question:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Hello,    I don’t know if anyone out there suffers from the same complex as I,  but i have become a lure collector rather than a versitile fisherman. I have filled multiple tackle boxes that are so big that  it is a major procedure to go for a simple pond fishing outing. I bring my 30 pound ( I have a lure for every situation) tackle box where ever I go. Well, this Christmas I received a fanny pack fishing box. For hours I have sorted and contemplated which lures and tackle should be included in my limeted space carrrying pack. Any suggestions? BTW, this fanny pack is great! Pockets galour. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Note: I open water fly fish, bass fish and fish for crappy when the bass aren’t hitting. Thanks, Paul              

I use the fanny pack method myself when bank fishing local lakes, ponds, and rivers.  It beats hell out of luggin around a heavy tackle box.  My fanny pack is not specifically designed for fishing, it’s just a square shaped pack that’s big enough to hold a couple of Plano Mini-Magmum boxes or a few zip-lock bags of Power Worms/Lizards/Grubs.  It has a smaller pocket for a hook remover or stringer (if I happen to catch one I want to keep  I have my Gerber Multi-Plers on the pack’s belt with a safety lanyard in case I drop them. What I do is load my fanny pack for each trip depending on what I’m fishing for and what tackle I’m using.  If I’m wormin’, I put in a few bags of worms and/or lizards and a Mini-Magnum with worm hooks, sinkers, beads, swivels, etc.  I also usually throw in a buzz bait, in case the mood strikes. I suggest you try this method.  Use your big tackle boxes to store the stuff, and, when you are getting ready to go fishing, pick out what you want to use for the day and put that in the fanny pack.  You can take a tackle box along and leave it in the car in case you loose something or if you find out they’re hitting something else that day. If you’re boat fishing, you can take a big box and leave the fanny pack at home if you want. I’m working on a way to carry a second rod & reel without tying up my other hand so I can switch easily between bait casting and spinning.  I’ll let you know on this newsgroup when I come up with a good method. Richard

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: : Hello, :  I don’t know if anyone out there suffers from the same complex as I, :  but i have become a lure collector rather than a versitile fisherman. I have : filled multiple tackle boxes that are so big that  it is a major procedure to : go : for a simple pond fishing outing. I bring my 30 pound ( I have a lure for : every : situation) tackle box where ever I go. Well, this Christmas I received a : fanny : pack fishing box. For hours I have sorted and contemplated which lures and : tackle should be included in my limeted space carrrying pack. Any : suggestions? : BTW, this fanny pack is great! Pockets galour. : Any advice would be greatly appreciated. : Note: I open water fly fish, bass fish and fish for crappy when the bass : aren’t : hitting. : Thanks, : Paul             : I use the fanny pack method myself when bank fishing local lakes, ponds, and : rivers.  It beats hell out of luggin around a heavy tackle box.  My fanny pack : is not specifically designed for fishing, it’s just a square shaped pack that’s : big enough to hold a couple of Plano Mini-Magmum boxes or a few zip-lock bags : of Power Worms/Lizards/Grubs.  It has a smaller pocket for a hook remover or : stringer (if I happen to catch one I want to keep  I have my Gerber : Multi-Plers on the pack’s belt with a safety lanyard in case I drop them. : What I do is load my fanny pack for each trip depending on what I’m fishing for : and what tackle I’m using.  If I’m wormin’, I put in a few bags of worms and/or : lizards and a Mini-Magnum with worm hooks, sinkers, beads, swivels, etc.  I : also usually throw in a buzz bait, in case the mood strikes. : I suggest you try this method.  Use your big tackle boxes to store the stuff, : and, when you are getting ready to go fishing, pick out what you want to use : for the day and put that in the fanny pack.  You can take a tackle box along : and leave it in the car in case you loose something or if you find out : they’re hitting something else that day. : If you’re boat fishing, you can take a big box and leave the fanny pack at home : if you want. : I’m working on a way to carry a second rod & reel without tying up my other : hand so I can switch easily between bait casting and spinning.  I’ll let you : know on this newsgroup when I come up with a good method. : Richard Rubber worms, a couple of spoons, a pack of perch hooks, several weighted head hooks (texas rig), couple a’ packs of hooks of various sizes, plastic minnows, a crank bait, and a spinner or two.  If you can’t find something they’ll bite on in that bunch, they ain’t bitin’.

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- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Hello,    I don’t know if anyone out there suffers from the same complex as I, but i have become a lure collector rather than a versitile fisherman. I have filled multiple tackle boxes that are so big that  it is a major procedure to go for a simple pond fishing outing. I bring my 30 pound ( I have a lure for every situation) tackle box where ever I go. Well, this Christmas I received a fanny pack fishing box. For hours I have sorted and contemplated which lures and tackle should be included in my limeted space carrrying pack. Any suggestions? BTW, this fanny pack is great! Pockets galour. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Note: I open water fly fish, bass fish and fish for crappy when the bass aren’t hitting. Thanks, Paul                I wholeheartedly would take a Rapala minnow(s) (rainbow trout or

black/silver or black/gold) with me. They work great on top and as a shallow crankbait. Big bream love the smaller size, too. Also take a jointed minnow. And you can’t go wrong with a spinnerbait or two (one yellow and one blue/black)  good luck, –   JASON

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Question:

Hi Again Again, check out REI Elements.  After two years of research I went with their Elements shell because it’s 10% more water proof than Goretex, 10% less breathable, but well designed with zips under arms, etc. for about 1/2 the price of Goretex and generally less weight than all but the most expensive GT.  I got mine for $115, vs Marmot’s $260.  Hope to get the pants this year.  Great windbreaker as well.  No teflon!.

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: Frank- :     Tough it out.  Last year, I bought a Gore-Tex wannabe, pants and parka. :     I had no problems other than the fact that the coating on the jacket was :     teflon, and I couldn’t stop after falling while showboarding(!).   Actually I believe goretex is actually just specially treated teflon. I met some chemistry guys who showed me how it’s done. It’s just got really small specially punched holes in it. "When you play the synthesizer keyboard as though it were a piano or organ, funny things happen" – Dick Hyman in the liner notes of his 196? album "MOOG"

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 ("I’d rather be Flyfishing!") writes: – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -Hello everyone, Don’t know if I should talk about specific products in the forum. Oh well, here goes: just got an EMS Expedition Parka and I love it!  Wish I could afford the matching EMS Expedition Pants, but the funds ain’t there and winter’s a comin’. Having Gore Tex pants is important to me.  I can live with them being insulated or uninsulated, but I do want quality stuff. <<stuff gone My gut says, go with the L.L. Bean product. I think it will compliment my EMS Expedition Parka just fine. My other gut says, tough it out with a cheapo pants and save up for the EMS Expedition Pants for next year. Thanks in advance for any advise you can share. Frank: flyfisher, icefisher, skier, snowshoveler et al.

Frank-     Tough it out.  Last year, I bought a Gore-Tex wannabe, pants and parka.     I had no problems other than the fact that the coating on the jacket was     teflon, and I couldn’t stop after falling while showboarding(!).  I was     willing to cope with that, since Gore-Tex would have cost twice as much.     This summer, I went hiking on a 90 degree day, and when I pulled my jacket     out that night, It had partially melted and stuck to itself!:(     Fortunately, I was able to return it and get the real thing.  It was worth     the extra $200 for the top of the line stuff |      Box 631             (610) 758-0461                | |      Lehigh University                                 | |      29 Trembley Dr.                                   |

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Having Gore Tex pants is important to me.  I can live with them being insulated or uninsulated, but I do want quality stuff.

snip snip Thanks in advance for any advise you can share.

Well, since you asked for it, and bearing in mind that advice is worth what you pay for it, here’s some for free |:-) Both coated and Gore-Tex pants are going to block wind and water.  Both will get clammy on the inside when it’s humid.  Both will get torn up by the briars if you do much walking in the woods.  The main difference, in my personal experience (I’ve used both), is in the price. What I have settled on for now is a pair of urethane-coated nylon trousers, uninsulated, with drawstrings at waist and cuffs, calf zippers, and sealed seams.  I paid about $25 for them (LL Bean, I think).  I can use whatever insulation I want beneath them and won’t break down in despair when they are ruined in a laurel hell some day. Regards, Stephen Anderson

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Hello everyone, Don’t know if I should talk about specific products in the forum. Oh well, here goes: just got an EMS Expedition Parka and I love it!  Wish I could afford the matching EMS Expedition Pants, but the funds ain’t there and winter’s a comin’. Having Gore Tex pants is important to me.  I can live with them being insulated or uninsulated, but I do want quality stuff. EMS sells this Gore-Tex-like System 3 getup.  The pants seem pretty nice for being water-resistant and wind-resistant, full leg zips, seams are sealed, back pockets that zip and an elastic waistband that has side snaps. $85.00. L.L.Bean sells their Gore-Tex North Col Pants, either insulated or uninsulated, full leg zips (2 way), velcro closures at waist and cuffs, and a storm flap over the leg zips. $139 ($129 uninsulated) Columbia has several models of pants, all do not have Gore-Tex, most are uninsulated, most have only zips at the cuffs and elastic waist bands with snaps for adjustment. $29-$89 My gut says, go with the L.L. Bean product. I think it will compliment my EMS Expedition Parka just fine. My other gut says, tough it out with a cheapo pants and save up for the EMS Expedition Pants for next year. Thanks in advance for any advise you can share. Frank: flyfisher, icefisher, skier, snowshoveler et al.

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