Question:

I have a 9′  for 5 that I built a couple of years ago.  In the right hands it  seems to cast a good line.  Medium to medium fast action.  If you would like, you could stop by and try it the next time you are headed to Cornwall. Chris Richer – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text –  My only Talon rod is a light 10.5 ft spinning rod,  so I really don’t know.  Angler’s Workshop always  lists a small number of Talon blanks in their catalog.  You might want to give them a call to see if they will  tell you anything about them. Thanks, found it.  It’s in their VI Plus series.  I’ve never casted a Talon or even held one in my hands, do you know what they’re like? Remove "XX" from address

– Chris Richer chrisratnostormspamdotca

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I have a 9′  for 5 that I built a couple of years ago.  In the right hands it  seems to cast a good line.  Medium to medium fast action.  If you would like, you could stop by and try it the next time you are headed to Cornwall. Chris Richer

I appreciate that Rick, I’ll be in Cornwall, Saturday, September 21st. If that’s OK for you I can send you my phone number and we can arrange something – maybe chase a few smallies. Peter Visit The Streamer Page at http://www.mountaincable.net/~pcharles/streamers/index.html

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still trying to find a good anchoring system to use with my kayak. The dealer kit [anchor off bow and line to cleat beside cockpit]  forces the boat to face upstream or upwind according to the conditions. This forces me to cast into wind and fight fish around anchor line. Also I cannot get to anchor if it gets hung up. Anyone got a suggestion for a better rig.? Joe McIntosh

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Petah I’d look at http://www.tomwhite.com I’ve gotten several of his GLoomis IMX blems and they’ve been turned into fine rods. He’s friendly, has good service and ships at 1/2 of warp speed. YMMV Flyfish

I’ve sent him an email – we’ll see what happens. Thanks Peter Peter Visit The Streamer Page at http://www.mountaincable.net/~pcharles/streamers/index.html

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Anyone have a source for spey rod blems (or just a good source for spey blanks)?  Winter’s coming up and I’ve got an itch to build a new rod. Thanks,      - Ken

Worth a try with Tom White, see my previous post. Flyfish

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I looked up a few lists I had from a year or so ago and found that Talon makes a 4 pc 8.5 ft 7 weight blank, but on the order of US$165 or so.  And if you strike out with everything else, you may want to at least check out Cabela’s 3 pc 8.5 ft 6-10 lb test spinning rod at $US79, don’t know if that particular blank is sold separately…  

Thanks, found it.  It’s in their VI Plus series.  I’ve never casted a Talon or even held one in my hands, do you know what they’re like? Peter Visit The Streamer Page at http://www.mountaincable.net/~pcharles/streamers/index.html

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 Apart from spending big bucks on a saltwater Vector or Heliply, I’m SOL.  

Those are both nice rods, and would give you an excuse to do a little flats fishing now and then. <g — Charlie…

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– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Yup, I know.  The 8′6" length 7wt. apparently is popular as a brookie rod for fishing on Quebec lakes out of canoes and boats.  I found my old one to be ideal for steelheading out of a drift boat and for all day blind casting for smallies.  There used to be a few different models on the market but I suppose the demand for them was low and they’ve been discontinued. Peter, If the only problem with the rods is portability, have you considered a car top carrier such as a Yakima or Thule? The cost would likely be about the same as a "good" rod, and could be used for other purposes as well. Just a thought.

I’ve looked at those before, but I’d rather have something that would fit in the trunk.  I haul computers and manuals plus occasional suitcases all over Ontario for my job.  It’s nice to be able to tuck in a couple of rods as well. I used to keep a Cabelas Stowaway 3 wt., a Daiwa 4/5 and a Cortland 8/9 (really a 9 wt.) in the a big bag in the back of my truck.  It worked great but over time I found the Cortland to be too much rod for most of the fish and the Stowaway was redundant.  I currently have a nice St. Croix 8 wt. but I lack spools and lines for it.  OTOH, I have loads of 7 wt. lines mounted.  So it’s six of one half-dozen of the other, do I buy more lines and spools for the 8 or buy a 7 wt. rod? I know what Wayne Knight would say, "Buy both." Peter Visit The Streamer Page at http://www.mountaincable.net/~pcharles/streamers/index.html

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 Apart from spending big bucks on a saltwater Vector or Heliply, I’m SOL.   Those are both nice rods, and would give you an excuse to do a little flats fishing now and then. <g

If you could see the nice, shiny new 48" Thermador range in the kitchen of the nice, shiny new house, you’d know why Vector and Heliply are off my list.  :) Peter Visit The Streamer Page at http://www.mountaincable.net/~pcharles/streamers/index.html

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– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Yup, I know.  The 8′6" length 7wt. apparently is popular as a brookie rod for fishing on Quebec lakes out of canoes and boats.  I found my old one to be ideal for steelheading out of a drift boat and for all day blind casting for smallies.  There used to be a few different models on the market but I suppose the demand for them was low and they’ve been discontinued. Peter, If the only problem with the rods is portability, have you considered a car top carrier such as a Yakima or Thule? The cost would likely be about the same as a "good" rod, and could be used for other purposes as well. Just a thought.

And if I may, why does it have to fit in the trunk?  Is it a security thing, or…???  Either way, a couple of questions – are you willing to finish/refinish something, and does it have to graphite? TC, R

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you’d know why Vector and Heliply are off my list.  :)

Well, you don’t have to get both right away. <g — Charlie…

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And if I may, why does it have to fit in the trunk?  Is it a security thing, or…???  Either way, a couple of questions – are you willing to finish/refinish something, and does it have to graphite? TC, R

I know that there are some fiberglass blanks kicking around in a 7 wt. (Fenglas?) but they generally don’t have the horsepower to handle wind, etc. so that’s why I wasn’t really considering them. Peter Visit The Streamer Page at http://www.mountaincable.net/~pcharles/streamers/index.html

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models on the market but I suppose the demand for them was low and they’ve been discontinued. Could you build one out of a 9′ 6wt blank that you cut back? Maybe I’m just showing my ignorance, Jon.

I considered that – get a cheap blank and chop 6" off the tip. However, I’d have to be very careful that I choose a blank that doesn’t exhibit a radical thickening of the blank just beyond the tip. Some of the cheaper ones I’ve had don’t maintain a thin tip very far down the blank.  If I chopped one of those, I might end up with a one very brutal rod.   Peter Visit The Streamer Page at http://www.mountaincable.net/~pcharles/streamers/index.html

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I considered that – get a cheap blank and chop 6" off the tip.

What about a cheap "tip-flex" and cut 6" off the butt? — Charlie…

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I considered that – get a cheap blank and chop 6" off the tip. What about a cheap "tip-flex" and cut 6" off the butt?

It’ll speed up the rod somewhat by the line rating probably won’t change. It’s probably the least risky of the two ends.  Alternately, if I found an 11′ 4 piece, I just leave off the bottom piece.  Daiwa has a few in that length that I should check out. Peter Visit The Streamer Page at http://www.mountaincable.net/~pcharles/streamers/index.html

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– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I used to have a short 7 wt. and my son owns one too, unfortunately they are (were) both 2 piece rods and I need one that’ll fit in the trunk of the Golf.  Apart from spending big bucks on a saltwater Vector or Heliply, I’m SOL.   Anyone know of an affordable 8′6" multi piece 7 wt.? BTW, my previous short 7 wt. and my son’s are mostly used for smallies, small stream steelheading, and fishing from drift boats etc. Peter Visit The Streamer Page at http://www.mountaincable.net/~pcharles/streamers/index.html

Petah I’d look at http://www.tomwhite.com I’ve gotten several of his GLoomis IMX blems and they’ve been turned into fine rods. He’s friendly, has good service and ships at 1/2 of warp speed. YMMV Flyfish

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Petah I’d look at http://www.tomwhite.com I’ve gotten several of his GLoomis IMX blems and they’ve been turned into fine rods. He’s friendly, has good service and ships at 1/2 of warp speed.

Anyone have a source for spey rod blems (or just a good source for spey blanks)?  Winter’s coming up and I’ve got an itch to build a new rod. Thanks,      - Ken

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– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – And if I may, why does it have to fit in the trunk?  Is it a security thing, or…???  Either way, a couple of questions – are you willing to finish/refinish something, and does it have to graphite? TC, R I know that there are some fiberglass blanks kicking around in a 7 wt. (Fenglas?) but they generally don’t have the horsepower to handle wind, etc. so that’s why I wasn’t really considering them. Peter Visit The Streamer Page at http://www.mountaincable.net/~pcharles/streamers/index.html

I was actually thinking of the Eagle Claw/Wright and McGill travel rods (some are combo spin/fly) or "redesigning" something like an older (and cheaper) Silaflex or Conolon fiberglass rods out there by adding joints. You could find an old darlin’ for 10-20.00US (800CDN <G), and be done for under 100.00US and a small amount of time.  FWIW, a lot of the old rods in the range in question will toss some line.  Of course, they aren’t featherweights, and Lefty won’t wanna borrow your gear, but OTOH, Lefty won’t wanna borrow yer gear <G.  And if some punk does "borrow" your gear, it ain’t the end of the world. TC, R

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I used to have a short 7 wt. and my son owns one too, unfortunately they are (were) both 2 piece rods and I need one that’ll fit in the trunk of the Golf.  Apart from spending big bucks on a saltwater Vector or Heliply, I’m SOL.   Anyone know of an affordable 8′6" multi piece 7 wt.? BTW, my previous short 7 wt. and my son’s are mostly used for smallies, small stream steelheading, and fishing from drift boats etc. Peter Visit The Streamer Page at http://www.mountaincable.net/~pcharles/streamers/index.html

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Just lend me a 9 footer and it will be down to size in no time.

LOL got any spares? Peter Visit The Streamer Page at http://www.mountaincable.net/~pcharles/streamers/index.html

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Check out Temple Fork they have excellent pricing, good selection, I have used several of there rods and have been very happy.

I used to have a short 7 wt. and my son owns one too, unfortunately they are (were) both 2 piece rods and I need one that’ll fit in the trunk of the Golf.  Apart from spending big bucks on a saltwater Vector or Heliply, I’m SOL. Anyone know of an affordable 8′6" multi piece 7 wt.? BTW, my previous short 7 wt. and my son’s are mostly used for smallies, small stream steelheading, and fishing from drift boats etc. Peter Visit The Streamer Page at

http://www.mountaincable.net/~pcharles/streamers/index.html

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Check out Temple Fork they have excellent pricing, good selection, I have used several of there rods and have been very happy.

will do, thanks Peter Visit The Streamer Page at http://www.mountaincable.net/~pcharles/streamers/index.html

Response:

Hi Peter, You might have trouble finding a # 7 multipiece shorter than 9′. Orvis might have something. The Redington "Wayfarrer" 9′ #7, 5 pc is $195. The St.Croix "Avid" 9′ #7, 3 pc is $220. — Bill Kiene Kiene’s Fly Shop Sacramento, CA, USA www.kiene.com 800/400-0359 toll free USA

I used to have a short 7 wt. and my son owns one too, unfortunately they are (were) both 2 piece rods and I need one that’ll fit in the trunk of the Golf.  Apart from spending big bucks on a saltwater Vector or Heliply, I’m SOL. Anyone know of an affordable 8′6" multi piece 7 wt.? BTW, my previous short 7 wt. and my son’s are mostly used for smallies, small stream steelheading, and fishing from drift boats etc. Peter Visit The Streamer Page at

http://www.mountaincable.net/~pcharles/streamers/index.html

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Hi Peter, You might have trouble finding a # 7 multipiece shorter than 9′. Orvis might have something.

Yup, I know.  The 8′6" length 7wt. apparently is popular as a brookie rod for fishing on Quebec lakes out of canoes and boats.  I found my old one to be ideal for steelheading out of a drift boat and for all day blind casting for smallies.  There used to be a few different models on the market but I suppose the demand for them was low and they’ve been discontinued. I already own a 9′6"  T&T Horizon steelhead 7 wt. so there isn’t much advantage to drop to a 9 footer vs. the 9′6"  I’ve used this rod in boats as well and it’s much more cumbersome for casting, manoeuvering around in the boat, and landing fish.  Its size and weight makes it less than ideal for all day casting.  I’ve mainly used it for nymphing and swinging wets for steelhead, a role for which it excels. Peter Visit The Streamer Page at http://www.mountaincable.net/~pcharles/streamers/index.html

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Yup, I know.  The 8′6" length 7wt. apparently is popular as a brookie rod for fishing on Quebec lakes out of canoes and boats.  I found my old one to be ideal for steelheading out of a drift boat and for all day blind casting for smallies.  There used to be a few different models on the market but I suppose the demand for them was low and they’ve been discontinued.

Peter, If the only problem with the rods is portability, have you considered a car top carrier such as a Yakima or Thule? The cost would likely be about the same as a "good" rod, and could be used for other purposes as well. Just a thought. George Adams "From the rockin’ of the cradle to the rollin’ of the hearse, the goin’ up was worth the comin’ down." ___Kris Kristofferson "The Pilgrim/Chapter 33"

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Question:

live long and prosper, old boy Peter Visit The Streamer Page at http://home.cogeco.ca/~pcharles/streamers/index.html

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I’d like to take this moment to say thanks to all of ya’ll here at roff who provide me (and all of us) with such good entertainment, advice, trip reports, pics, and the like…. thank you….. thank you from the bottom of my heart.

Well said.  I, too, have enjoyed the virtual company here this year. I’ve learned a lot about fish and some about fishing.  And had fun. — rbc:  vixen    Fairly harmless remove invalid or hit reply to email. Though I’m very slow to respond. http://www.visi.com/~cyli

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I’d like to take this moment to say thanks to all of ya’ll here at roff who provide me (and all of us) with such good entertainment, advice, trip reports, pics, and the like…. thank you….. thank you from the bottom of my heart. thanks to all who deem it necessary to visit and fish with my worthless ass…. i love all of ya’ll like brothers….. what a great family. thanks to each and every clavemeister….. ya’ll are special…. and always will be. thanks to my customers at ezflyfish.com and wilson creek outfitters, i sincerely appreciate the support, your business, and your friendship. thanks for another day…. another day to fish. happy new year fellahs, a very special and happy new year for you all…… –waldo, new wader waldo <g

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waldo writes: thanks to my customers at ezflyfish.com and wilson creek outfitters, i sincerely appreciate the support, your business, and your friendship.

SPAM!!!!! Happy New Year to you too, walt, and may next year be better than this one. Don’t forget our fishing date in Feb. Louie

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and a HAPPY NEW YEAR to you too, Waldo!! May the wind be always at your back, may the road rise up to meet you, and may the GREAT BROWN of Wilson’s Creek thumb his nose at your offerings until that glorious sun filled day he glooms onto your Yellowhammer, rips line down to your backing, jumps high into the air, and on his third airborne effort, throws the fly which sticks neatly into the seat of your new waders and penetrates below the barb you forgot to pinch and DAMN, you forgot the beer again! — Wayne (and Jeffie is fishing up the side stream and thinks your hollering about the gnats!) To Fish is Human…To Release Divine!

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I’d like to take this moment to say thanks to all of ya’ll here at roff who provide me (and all of us) with such good entertainment, advice, trip reports, pics, and the like…. thank you….. thank you from the bottom of my heart. thanks to all who deem it necessary to visit and fish with my worthless ass…. i love all of ya’ll like brothers….. what a great family. thanks to each and every clavemeister….. ya’ll are special…. and always will be. thanks to my customers at ezflyfish.com and wilson creek outfitters, i sincerely appreciate the support, your business, and your friendship. thanks for another day…. another day to fish. happy new year fellahs, a very special and happy new year for you all…… –waldo, new wader waldo <g

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Question:

anyone have any experience with swift canoes. am looking at the temegami wondering how initial stability is needed for two large people to fish off of

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I’m quite familiar with Swift Canoes (Mattawa, Kip, Winisk, all the solos, Mad, and Dumo).  The Temagami is a new boat (2000), that is similair to a Winisk in most dimensions, however is wider, deeper and has less bow rocker and more stern rocker.  That means that it will carry a bit more, be a bit slower and will have less stern drag.  The Winisk is a very nice boat.  It may not be my favorite tripping boat, but it is quick when properly trimmed and it has lots of flare for dryness, and soft chines to eliminate catching on waves.  Generally speaking the Winisk is a very nice canoe. As for balance the Winisk is easy to balance, however it exhibits the same old Swift wiggle you get in most of the Winters designed boats. It often puts first time paddler off.  What I’m speaking about is the wiggle in the initial stability that the boat develops with each stroke while paddling.  It’s hard to describe, but it is more of a feeling than anything else.  Once you paddle a mile or so you won’t feel it, but it is noticeable after paddling other boats that don’t wiggle.  The Winisk and all Swifts have impeccable secondary stability, a practiced paddler can put the one rail well below the water surface and not loose stability in a swift boat.  This is useful when executing sharp apex turns.  Swifts track well and compare well against similair canoes in all matters of performance. I recommend you take one for a paddle, try a Winisk too.  For that matter try a Bell Northwind, or a MRC Horizon, or several 17-18′ We-No- Nahs too (Sundower, Jensen, Minnesota II, Odyssey, and Champlain. Western Canoeing als makes a few comparable boats. PK Before you buy.

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I’ll second everything that PK said.  I own the Winter-designed, 18-foot Swift Cirrus, 54 pounds in an expedition kevlar layup. The initial stability is poor.  The boat freely rocks through about 5 degrees with each stroke and scares beginners but it can be heeled until the gunwales are wet and just gets tighter and tighter as the angle increases.  I fly fish standing up in it. The quality of construction is superb with beautiful contrasting wood work for thwarts, seats and yoke.  Outfitting is thoughtful, with a sliding bow seat, molded-in flotation chambers with valves that can open to allow compensation for temperature expansion of the air inside and a nicely contoured carrying yoke. Got questions?  Get answers over the phone at Keen.com. Up to 100 minutes free! http://www.keen.com

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Michael A. Barbalic writes: anyone have any experience with swift canoes. am

looking at the temegami wondering how initial stability is needed for two large people to fish off of

There are several Swift Canoe models listed among the reader’s gear reiviews at http://www.paddling.net/ , but not the model you mention in your post. You may find them useful anyway. Good luck! " If clean air and water and a healthy environment have not harmed you, please reciprocate."

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Good point on the yoke, Tommy,  But I gotta tell you opt for the optional Shadow Yoke.  It’s worth it’s weight in Ash.  Your shoulders will thank you.  You will be thankful for years that you didn’t cheese on that one!! PK Before you buy.

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PK, I think fitting a yoke is like fitting shoes.  When I bought my Cirrus at Collinsville Canoe and Kayak in Connecticut, they had three different contoured and one padded yoke models (not all Swift) in the store.  I carried a boat with each of them and then selected the Swift "Teal".  I liked it so well that I bought two more "Teals" to retrofit into other canoes. Got questions?  Get answers over the phone at Keen.com. Up to 100 minutes free! http://www.keen.com

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Michael: I’m not familiar with the Temagami but I have owned 2 Swift Kipawa’s.  My current boat is one of the two. I think that they are fantastic boats.  Very well designed.  Great secondary stablility – as pointed out by other posters. Swift’s construction is impeccable IMHO and so is their customer service. I would suggest going out to one of their outdoor events if you can and paddling their boats.  Alternatively if you can make it to the Dwight store, Oxtounge lake is right in their backyard. One thing I would suggest is that if they don’t have the exact boat in stock that you are looking for (Trim, colour ect.), wait for it.  I’m sure that they will gladly set you up with a loaner if it takes a few weeks to build your dream boat. BTW:  I highly recommend their cherry trim.  It’s a wonderful wood.. quite pleasing to the eye . Good luck, -Aamer – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – anyone have any experience with swift canoes. am looking at the temegami wondering how initial stability is needed for two large people to fish off of

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Yep the Cherry is nice, but I can tell you for a fact that if you plan to run whitewater in your boat, buy the ash.  It’s much stronger for the same weight. I had a friend that outfit his Dumo with cherry thwarts and yoke.  He went through the yoke, and two thwarts of cherry with only a good buise.  Sure it was lucky for him that he didn’t break his legs, buttttttttt…..  Thwarts shouldn’t break that easily PK Before you buy.

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Question:

Hi Shaun, here’s a trick I learned that works for me….take the male ferrule of each section and lay it along side your nose while twisting it and rubbing it back and forth a few times.  The natural oil in your skin will lube the ferrules sufficiently.  Also, if you have problems taking it apart after setting the sections really tight, put the rod behind your legs with a firm grip on the section to be pulled apart, then spread your knees apart, thereby letting your leg muscles do the work.  I keep a non-skid piece of rubber matting in my vest to help get a grip on the rod when it wants to be stubborn.  I have the same rod as you and all this works for me. Regards,

Guys: I’ve got the same rod, same problems, same solution.  Good advice.  One little detail:  When you use your legs to separate the rod, place your hands, and grip the rod on the OUTSIDE of your knees.  I know this seems really obvious, but I actually saw someone attempt it the other way. Oh, and one other piece of advice: If you live in blackfly country, and you use Deet products, make sure you don’t rub deet from your nose crease  onto the rod.  I’m guessing you’d end up with a one-piece rod. brent

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I have a St. Croix 8.5′ 5wt 4pc travel rod and I’m having some trouble taking the sections apart.  Is there a standard method for lubricating the joints of rods? Also, I find the action of this rod superb if I jam the sections in pretty hard (hence the problem!), but pretty sluggish if not.  Am I doing anything wrong?  Should I go to a 6wt line? Appreciate any help. Shaun

  Rub the male end with parafin. Many rods load well with a line size higher than spec. It’s a matter of choice. I’d give it a try if you’re not satisfied with the action with a #5 line. Raalph H

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If you want to try 6wt line you might check out hookhack.com . Under specials this month they list a Climax double taper line that is 5wt on one end and 6wt on the other.                                                                   Doug Campbell – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Many rods load well with a line size higher than spec. It’s a matter of choice. I’d give it a try if you’re not satisfied with the action with a #5 line. Raalph H

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I assume you are talking about graphite rods.   A friend uses a little bow string wax which make the rod easier to take apart but also prevents wear from putting the rods together and taking them apart so often

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Hi, A friend uses a little bow string wax which make the rod easier to take apart but also prevents wear from putting the rods together and taking them apart so often

PMFJI, but I learned a trick while fishing in MT a few years back. Just lay the male part of the rod against your cheek next to your nose and below your eye.  Now twist the rod to wipe the oil from your skin onto the rod.  That has always worked for me. Best, Bill

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My spouse, Rachel (a/k/a "she who must be obeyed"), asked me what i was doing…told her i had logged on a newsgroup of flyfishermen and was reading discussions about "jungle cock capes", "joint lubrication", and "nymphs"…i’m sure you know what she said next… jeff (now with cyber nanny filter in full operation)

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- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Hi Shaun, here’s a trick I learned that works for me….take the male ferrule of each section and lay it along side your nose while twisting it and rubbing it back and forth a few times.  The natural oil in your skin will lube the ferrules sufficiently.  Also, if you have problems taking it apart after setting the sections really tight, put the rod behind your legs with a firm grip on the section to be pulled apart, then spread your knees apart, thereby letting your leg muscles do the work.  I keep a non-skid piece of rubber matting in my vest to help get a grip on the rod when it wants to be stubborn.  I have the same rod as you and all this works for me. Regards, Guys: I’ve got the same rod, same problems, same solution.  Good advice.  One little detail:  When you use your legs to separate the rod, place your hands, and grip the rod on the OUTSIDE of your knees.  I know this seems really obvious, but I actually saw someone attempt it the other way. Oh, and one other piece of advice: If you live in blackfly country, and you use Deet products, make sure you don’t rub deet from your nose crease  onto the rod.  I’m guessing you’d end up with a one-piece rod. brent

Hi Guys, I took Mike Maxwell Speycasting course and the 3pc or 4 pc rods are hard to take apart. What Mr. Maxwell recommends is white candle wax on the male end and line the ferrule a 1/4 turn offset, then twist it in alignment. This eliminates taping your ferrules with electrical tape. After fishing all day the rod get worked pretty hard, the ferrule does not come apart very easy, so he recommends cooling your rod under tap water or in the river and untwist the opposite way you turn to put it on. Believe me it works, after a friend just about put his shoulder out pulling it apart and nearly tearing the guides off, I told him to put under the garden hose and it came apart with no problem. Note: Make sure the female end is clean, with no grit or sand or it will dig into the male end and destroy you rod.

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Don’t use nose oil, it is acidic and will corrode the metal ferrules.  Other products such as candle wax or silicone grease will not destroy the metal, and are often recommended by the manufacture.  A collector I used to know, said he could tell the rods that had been nose oiled and showed the resultant corroded metal ferrules.

Response:

I have a St. Croix 8.5′ 5wt 4pc travel rod and I’m having some trouble taking the sections apart.  Is there a standard method for lubricating the joints of rods? Also, I find the action of this rod superb if I jam the sections in pretty hard (hence the problem!), but pretty sluggish if not.  Am I doing anything wrong?  Should I go to a 6wt line? Appreciate any help. Shaun

What you need is a bottle of Gehrke’s Slink, the best damn joint lubricator money can buy. Once you’ve tried this you’ll never use parafin again. It’s a little more expensive at $5 a bottle, but it will make your rod feel like a brand new top-of-the-line Sage. — something bogus to avoid spam)

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well might as well put my two cents in. Rub the male ends on your nose or forhead, seriously the little bit of oil from your skin is just enough to do the trick. And pull the sections apart by placing them behind your knees and hold them tight and spread your legs slightly and they should pull apart without twisting them off.An older gentleman showed me this trick on a bamboo rod i have that i’m afraid of breaking and they wrere on there good jim – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – If this a graphite rod, then rub a candle on the male end of the ferrule to give a thin coat of wax once every 3 months or so, and the joint will be good shape. I have a St. Croix 8.5′ 5wt 4pc travel rod and I’m having some trouble taking the sections apart.  Is there a standard method for lubricating the joints of rods? Also, I find the action of this rod superb if I jam the sections in pretty hard (hence the problem!), but pretty sluggish if not.  Am I doing anything wrong?  Should I go to a 6wt line? Appreciate any help. Shaun

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- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – well might as well put my two cents in. Rub the male ends on your nose or forhead, seriously the little bit of oil from your skin is just enough to do the trick. And pull the sections apart by placing them behind your knees and hold them tight and spread your legs slightly and they should pull apart without twisting them off.An older gentleman showed me this trick on a bamboo rod i have that i’m afraid of breaking and they wrere on there good jim If this a graphite rod, then rub a candle on the male end of the ferrule to give a thin coat of wax once every 3 months or so, and the joint will be good shape. I have a St. Croix 8.5′ 5wt 4pc travel rod and I’m having some trouble taking the sections apart.  Is there a standard method for lubricating the joints of rods? Also, I find the action of this rod superb if I jam the sections in pretty hard (hence the problem!), but pretty sluggish if not.  Am I doing anything wrong?  Should I go to a 6wt line? Appreciate any help. Shaun

_______  Everyone has failed "Ferrules 201"  (Lubrication Course) The Metallics of Nickel Silver dictates that the metal itself is its own best lubricant and smoothness of inserting (this sounds sexy) is determined by polish and/or the micro finish that is put on with a finish of 1500 Grit. What everyone needs to do is keep their male and female parts of their ferrules clean.  Grit and grime are your worst enemy excepting of course, yourselves for not keeping your male and female parts clean. Keep all lubricants off of your ferrules altogether.  It is dirt that wears ferrules out and it is dirt that makes them stick together and difficult to take apart.  If this occurs, use a cotton swab and a little ivory (a very mild, neural PHfactor soap to lean out your female ferrules) soap.  This product does not affect any of the varnish, epoxy, or thread finishes.  The female ferrule has a plug inside, so no solutions will get into the end of your fly rod inside and swell or rot bamboo woods over time.  The same holds true with graphite fly rod ferrules in that graphite is its own best lubricant. You don’t want to try and help fly rods to come apart.  It they fly apart while fly fishing, you may  have very dirty ferrules and you are not getting an airtight fit.  Or!  Your ferrules may be worn out and need replacing. This is the end of ‘rod joint lubrication 201.’ Any questions? — Mr. G.

Question:

FFGuy wrote 7) 3 liters of water, platypus with bite valve

Aside from being a furry little guy with a duck bill, what’s a platypus? —                                                       -dnc-

Response:

FFGuy wrote 7) 3 liters of water, platypus with bite valve Aside from being a furry little guy with a duck bill, what’s a platypus?

It’s a water bladder.  Basically an extremely tough plastic bag with a tube and a valve that you bite down on to drink the water.  As you can’t tell from my horrible description, they are a pretty cool invention.  They are nearly indestructable, insulated, and can carry a relatively large amount of water conveniently.  I use one (actually a generic equivalent) while fishing, hiking, biking, boarding, etc. Later,      - Ken — "During my service in the United States Congress, I took the  initiative in creating the Internet."  - Al Gore

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Here is my top ten Excluding Rod,Reel and Line 1    Flask of Coffee 2    Cheese Sandwiches 3    Cigars 4    Lighter 5    Bow Net 6    Sportsclip Tool 7    Solarshield Glasses 8    Gink 9    Floating Fly Box (inc flies) 10  Waders

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I got into fly fishing during the last year.  soon after my soon to be father-in-law became interested also.  naturally we go fishing together. I bring every possible fishing gadget I can carry, He on the other hand is a brings a rod.  I know I’m carrying 10 more pounds to the stream than he is. He takes every opportunity to point this out.  This spring I plan to cut down on the number of tools I carry to the water. What are the 10 most important items you all would take to the water for a day a fly fishing?

Get an average sized fanny pack or a vest with only a few pockets, and then only take what you can fit in it.  Limited carry capacity is great aid to self-discipline.  Besides, you’ll look real neat and tidy to the daddy-in-law. Cheers Visit The Streamer Page at http://www.cgocable.net/~pcharles/index.html

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I’ll assume you’re talking about fly fishing in a river/stream and about EQUIPMENT, not supplies. So here’s my list in order of importance: 1)Rod/Reel, 2)Vest, 3)Glasses or flip-focals(for seeing), 4)Waders, 5)Polarized sun glasses, 6)Hat. 7)Fanny Pack. Any other item I consider a supply and should fit into #2 or #7 above.

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Just thought of a take-off on the saying Lee Wulff coined regarding C & R. "Limit what you carry. Don’t carry your limit!" What do you think?

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8.  Drying crystals (dessicant).

This has to be the least entrant for the top ten. — something bogus to avoid spam)

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absorbent paper towels that are FREE in the service station work swell.  Just squeeze the wet and hopefully chewed up and slimy fly with a piece of one and dress with Aequel or Daves bug Float or Blue Ribbon Super Dry Fly Float or SA dry fly floatant or Loon easy Dry or Hydrostop or Albolene and get back to fishing.

man, you’re slippin. you forgot GINK. you know, why go on the river with those lesser quality floatants when you can have the best. thats GINK, the best damn floatant your hard-earned money can buy. here, i’ll spell it out for you, G-I-N-K. i’ll share a little known roff secret with ya pal. the inventor of GINK is a once-in-a-blue-moon poster here at roff. if you ask him nicely, i’d bet my last dollar he would send you a complimentary bottle of GINK. waldo the omnipotent flytier and man about stream

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i’d bet my last dollar he would send you a complimentary bottle …

I’ll take THAT bet. Think he’d send me one too ? The absolute best thing to use for drying a wet dry fly is an Amadou. Among the many semi-liquids, Dave’s Bug Float is the best. — Ken Fortenberry

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8.  Drying crystals (dessicant). This has to be the least entrant for the top ten.

Oops, that makes no sense. I meant to write the "least likely entrant." — something bogus to avoid spam)

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Ten most important beside the obvious rod/reel/waders with belt: 1. Polarized shades. 2.  Bill hat with flip down magnifiers. 3.  Fly box with "hatches" in dries and nymphs. 4.  Extra leader and 3 sizes of tippet depending on what kind of fishing. 5.  Nippers. 6.  Rain gear, preferably Goretex. 7.  Wading staff.  (Goes along with the flip down mags – I’m old) and water bottle. 8.  Drying crystals (dessicant). 9.  Hemostats. 10.  Landing net. There has to be room also for a can of V-eye-eeeeena Sausages. Of course my list is like going through the express line at the super market — 10 items or less.  And the woman behind me swears under her breath because I have 15.  <G Dave LaCourse

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License.  Nothing worse than haveing to try some place to buy a license earl in the am for some dufuss that forgot to get one the night before. Drying crystals?  Those neat blue and highly absorbent paper towels that are FREE in the service station work swell.  Just squeeze the wet and hopefully chewed up and slimy fly with a piece of one and dress with Aequel or Daves bug Float or Blue Ribbon Super Dry Fly Float or SA dry fly floatant or Loon easy Dry or Hydrostop or Albolene and get back to fishing. Ten most important beside the obvious rod/reel/waders with belt:

snip 8.  Drying crystals (dessicant).

snip Dave LaCourse

– Mike in PDX "When the trout are lost, smash the state."                          Tom McGuane

Response:

i’d bet my last dollar he would send you a complimentary bottle … I’ll take THAT bet. Think he’d send me one too ?

        there’s another bet you’d lose, forty.  george is among the most generous men i’ve ever met.  it’s just that he will have a helluva time locating you, under all those damn rocks. wayno – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -The absolute best thing to use for drying a wet dry fly is an Amadou. Among the many semi-liquids, Dave’s Bug Float is the best. — Ken Fortenberry

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  george is among the most generous men i’ve ever met.  it’s just that he will have a helluva time locating you, under all those damn rocks.

A most generous spammer is still a spammer. Your thing with the rocks is tiresome. Surely a wisecracking wiseacre of your prodigious abilities can do better than to repeat yourself to the point of self parody. — Ken Fortenberry

Response:

1. rod, reel & line (duh..) 2. flybox. 1 wheatley(model) should do if you know the water 3. sunglasses 4. pliers 5. some float & sink stuff 6. leaders & extra tippet material 7. hat 8. net 9. raincoat 10. basic first aid And now it’s time to take my own advice.. Cheers, Herman I got into fly fishing during the last year.  soon after my soon to be father-in-law became interested also.  naturally we go fishing together. I bring every possible fishing gadget I can carry, He on the other hand is a brings a rod.  I know I’m carrying 10 more pounds to the stream than he is. He takes every opportunity to point this out.  This spring I plan to cut down on the number of tools I carry to the water. What are the 10 most important items you all would take to the water for a day a fly fishing?

– Cheers, Herman Herman Nijland Daytime webmaster Lifetime flyfisher

Response:

Be sure to have a couple of the Holdzit Tool Saver holsters and a gink holder dangling from your vest.  The Tool Saver will keep your hook file and forcepts rust free and your gink handy.  Check the Holdzit Fishing Products site out at http://www.holdzit.com Sharp Hooks, Pat I got into fly fishing during the last year.  soon after my soon to be father-in-law became interested also.  naturally we go fishing together. I bring every possible fishing gadget I can carry, He on the other hand is a brings a rod.  I know I’m carrying 10 more pounds to the stream than he is. He takes every opportunity to point this out.  This spring I plan to cut down on the number of tools I carry to the water. What are the 10 most important items you all would take to the water for a day a fly fishing?

Response:

I am a beliver in keeping things simple and light. Here is what I pack: 1.  One fly box with drys and nymphs combined.  If I loose that many flys then I should proceed back to camp and have a beer to forget about the crappy day fishing. 2.  Leader/tippet material. 3.  Fishing hat-  it’s tradition. 4.  First aid kit/ thermal blanket 5.  Rod/reel 6.  Snack for emergency situations. 7.  clippers.

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What are the 10 most important items you all would take to the water for a day a fly fishing?

1) Camera 2) A book 3) Some Flies 4) Rod -n- reel 5) Tippet -n- leader 6) Nailclippers 7) Water Munchies 9) T.P. 10) Polarized sunglasses!!! Later,      - Ken — "During my service in the United States Congress, I took the  initiative in creating the Internet."  - Al Gore

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1. Consolidated fly box 2. polarized sunglasses 3. tippet material 4. various sized split shot 5. rod 6. reel 7. fly floatant 10. waders if you really want to travel light, these are all you need (I didn’t include "vest", because everything fits inside it.).  items 9, and 10 might be: 9. camera 10. strike indicators Pete C

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I got into fly fishing during the last year.  soon after my soon to be father-in-law became interested also.  naturally we go fishing together. I bring every possible fishing gadget I can carry, He on the other hand is a brings a rod.  I know I’m carrying 10 more pounds to the stream than he is. He takes every opportunity to point this out.  This spring I plan to cut down on the number of tools I carry to the water. What are the 10 most important items you all would take to the water for a day a fly fishing?

 Required-rod reel line leader/tippet flies. Extras-spare tippet material, swiss army knife (in belt sheath), spare leaders, camera, net, vest, soap, towel, pliers(needle nosed). Of coarse variations due to water fished and locale are to be considered, for instance in some of the areas I frequent I carry a side arm due to the over abundance of cotton mouths. I probably carry an over abundance of flies unless I’ve been there the day before and conditions haven’t changed. Bear in mind That I fish Florida waters from the bank where snags are a given and fish for bream and bass so there are times when rod/reel selection changes.                                                            John Popp                                                          in Sanford Fl.

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I feel I show up a little light, I have desired but have never needed more stuff.  My vest is packed with the following: 1) 4 fly boxes, each holds 90 flys 2) 3 tippet spools 3) # 6 split shot 4) 4 spare tapered leaders varying length and weight 5) Hemostats 6) Nippers, keeps the dentist off my back 7) 3 liters of water, platypus with bite valve Toilet paper, keeps skid marks to a minimum 9) Gink, keeps George happy 10) Bug net Plus the required stuff wide brim hat, waders, boots, Rod/Reel and a good attitude Al Simpson – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – What are the 10 most important items you all would take to the water for a day a fly fishing?

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I know I’m carrying 10 more pounds to the stream than he is. He takes every opportunity to point this out.  This spring I plan to cut down on the number of tools I carry to the water.

I suggest you just cut down on the number of soon to be father in laws. — Ken Fortenberry

Response:

I got into fly fishing during the last year.  soon after my soon to be father-in-law became interested also.  naturally we go fishing together. I bring every possible fishing gadget I can carry, He on the other hand is a brings a rod.  I know I’m carrying 10 more pounds to the stream than he is. He takes every opportunity to point this out.  This spring I plan to cut down on the number of tools I carry to the water. What are the 10 most important items you all would take to the water for a day a fly fishing?

Response:

I got into fly fishing during the last year.  soon after my soon to be father-in-law became interested also.  naturally we go fishing together. I bring every possible fishing gadget I can carry, He on the other hand is a brings a rod.  I know I’m carrying 10 more pounds to the stream than he is. He takes every opportunity to point this out.  This spring I plan to cut down on the number of tools I carry to the water. What are the 10 most important items you all would take to the water for a day a fly fishing?

        don’t know that i would take that many items, but i’ll just start listing:         1. small box of flies, about a dozen dries, maybe six or eight nymphs.  patterns would vary, depending upon weather, time of year, stream chosen.         2.  fingernail clippers         3.  couple extra leaders         4.  couple spools of tippet material         5.  gink         6.  hook forcepts, or whatever you call them         7.  strike indicators         8.  lightweight knife         9.  can of tuna and some mustard, plastic utensils         10.  olympus compact 35mm camera         well, i’ll be damned.  there were ten items. wayno – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text –

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Question:

I have a General Sikorski clematis and from what I’ve found I think it should be pruned to the first bud from the end of the plant in Feb or March but wanted to see if anyone can verify that for me.  Thanks. Ed

  General Sikorski is a type II clematis that blooms mainly on old growth.  As such it never needs serious pruning, but in early spring, just as it starts to leaf out, it would profit from having the dead ends clipped off back to the first (top) good leaf bud.  You might want to spread and tie up the ends at about this time as well.  After the first heavy bloom, the Carroll Garden’s catalog recommends a light pruning to increase secondary flower production later in the season on new growth.  I presume this means clipping off some of the growing ends just after a leaf to divert resources to flowers, but I never get around to doing it on my type II. — Lloyd Fortney http://www.phy.duke.edu/~fortney/ has links to my garden, flower, flyfishing, and travel JPEG images as well as teaching, research, and stuff like that

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I have a General Sikorski clematis and from what I’ve found I think it should be pruned to the first bud from the end of the plant in Feb or March but wanted to see if anyone can verify that for me.  Thanks. Ed The Melo Family Ed, Carolyn, Alyson and Lauren Pickering Valley Service Unit (Girl Scouts) http://www.voicenet.com/~edmelo/pvsu.html

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Question:

I fish in Mexico now and then around Rocky Point, in the upper Sea of Cortez. My wife and I like wading and casting to sea trout and pompano but the last two trips my wife stepped on a sting ray, which really put a damper on the rest of our fishing (her’s and mine). I’m curious to know how others have solved this problem.  I’m looking at Cabella’s flats wading bootie.  It seems like it protects the bottom of your foot and your toes but a big sting ray could still whack your upper foot and ankle (yeeeouch!). Any ideas?

Response:

I fish in Mexico now and then around Rocky Point, in the upper Sea of Cortez. My wife and I like wading and casting to sea trout and pompano but the last two trips my wife stepped on a sting ray, which really put a damper on the rest of our fishing (her’s and mine). I’m curious to know how others have solved this problem.  I’m looking at Cabella’s flats wading bootie.  It seems like it protects the bottom of your foot and your toes but a big sting ray could still whack your upper foot and ankle (yeeeouch!). Any ideas?

 I have never seen or heard of anything that you can put on your feet short of steel shoes that will stop a ray’s point from going through your foot when you step on them.  The best way to avoid stingrays when you are in the area is to shuffle your feet instead of picking them up and stepping around like you normally would.  I learned this when I used to dive.  You never stepped down onto sand without fluttering your feet first.   When you walk in areas that have rays just shuffle your feet (which will leave a mud trail behind you) and it will scare the rays away before you step on them.  If there is a current, make sure you are walking into the current so the mud goes behind you instead of in front of you.  Rays are not hostile and will not attack you, but they hide themselves in the sand and can put that barb onto any part of their back that you step on in an instant.  Not a lot of fun and they are difficult to spot when so hidden.  The neoprene boots offered by Orvis, Cabela’s, Simm’s, Glacier Glove, etc. will not protect you from this problem.  Lazy feet will protect you.  No need to buy anything, just change your habits when you *think* rays are in the area.                            Hope this helps,                                     Dan Dan Gracia Orvis West Coast Fly Fishing Schools

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Thanks, Dan, for your post regardng sting ray proof wading shoes.  I wish the news was better.  I’m sure your’e right that rays can poke though the neoprene part of flats booties.  But what about the rubber sole and the rubber part over the toes and top of the foot?   Interestingly, both of my wife’s stings were on her big toe (ouch!)  Seems like something as hard as tennis shoe rubber ought to top ‘em.  These are pretty small rays, maybe as big you our outstreached hand and fingers. Let me know what you think. Thanks again.

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Thanks, Dan, for your post regardng sting ray proof wading shoes.  I wish the news was better.  I’m sure your’e right that rays can poke though the neoprene part of flats booties.  But what about the rubber sole and the rubber part over the toes and top of the foot?   Interestingly, both of my wife’s stings were on her big toe (ouch!)  Seems like something as hard as tennis shoe rubber ought to top ‘em.  These are pretty small rays, maybe as big you our outstreached hand and fingers.

It’s possible it might stop such a small ray.  Never seen one that size.  The ones I’ve had experience with were about 3 feet wide across the wingtips and it wouldn’t even slow them down.  They put the barb through the top of the much harder rubber swim fins like it was butter and then went though the diver’s foot besides. One diver wasn’t so lucky and the barb missed the top of his foot slicing his leg open instead.  Not a pretty sight.  This happened while diving around the Santa Barbara Channel Islands (Anacapa & Santa Cruz Islands).  Convinced me to practice the "lazy foot" method in any area sting rays might be found.                                       Good Fishing,                                             Dan Dan Gracia Orvis West Coast Fly Fishing Schools

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I agree with your ‘lazy foot’ recommendation. I’m not sure if that is why I haven’t been stung but am going to keep it up anyway. Charlie…

Response:

I fish in Mexico now and then around Rocky Point, in the upper Sea of Cortez. My wife and I like wading and casting to sea trout and pompano but the last two trips my wife stepped on a sting ray, which really put a damper on the rest of our fishing (her’s and mine). I’m curious to know how others have solved this problem.  I’m looking at Cabella’s flats wading bootie.  It seems like it protects the bottom of your foot and your toes but a big sting ray could still whack your upper foot and ankle (yeeeouch!). Any ideas?

I heard they wade in the Texas gulf with some kind of shin guards. Bill Kiene Kiene’s Fly Shop Sacramento,CA,USA 800/4000FLY

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I fish in Mexico now and then around Rocky Point, in the upper Sea of Cortez. My wife and I like wading and casting to sea trout and pompano but the last two trips my wife stepped on a sting ray, which really put a damper on the rest of our fishing (her’s and mine). I’m curious to know how others have solved this problem.  I’m looking at Cabella’s flats wading bootie.  It seems like it protects the bottom of your foot and your toes but a big sting ray could still whack your upper foot and ankle (yeeeouch!). Any ideas? I heard they wade in the Texas gulf with some kind of shin guards. Bill Kiene Kiene’s Fly Shop Sacramento,CA,USA 800/4000FLY

Down here in Texas we call them land-mines. The shuffle step works just fine but if you are really worried they do make a hard plastic guard which wraps around your leg and rests on top of your shoe. I think the idea came from snake chaps used by folks in rattlesnake country. RAT

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I fish in Mexico now and then around Rocky Point, in the upper Sea of Cortez. My wife and I like wading and casting to sea trout and pompano but the last two trips my wife stepped on a sting ray, which really put a damper on the rest of our fishing (her’s and mine). I’m curious to know how others have solved this problem.  I’m looking at Cabella’s flats wading bootie.  It seems like it protects the bottom of your foot and your toes but a big sting ray could still whack your upper foot and ankle (yeeeouch!). Any ideas? I heard they wade in the Texas gulf with some kind of shin guards. Bill Kiene Kiene’s Fly Shop Sacramento,CA,USA 800/4000FLY

Down in Texas we do have shin guards for wading. But the best way is to shuffle your feet. A ray is prone to thinking that anything bumping it is probably another ray, but anything stepping on it is probably something out to, well, step on it! BTW, a friend of mine had shin guards on and was hit in the back of the calf. Shin guards now cover front and back of leg.

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Question:

Has anyone had any experience using horse hair, (mane in particular), in fly tying.  Any input would be appreciated. Tight line!

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writes: Has anyone had any experience using horse hair, (mane in particular), in fly tying.  Any input would be appreciated. Tight line!

Yes, both horse mane and horse tail.  Back in the 70’s took a one day class at a local JC in Oregon.  Older fellow who taught the 3 hour session had a collection of various materials in coffee cans and tin cracker boxes.  Part of his selection was horesehair dyed in various colors.  We tied up some caddis using some dyed green horse hair tied on and then wrapped like floss for one of the flies and then twisted to give a segmented body on another one.  It was actually pretty easy to handle. Need to be a little careful when twisting the horsehair as it goes from "twisted nicely" to "broken by twisting too much" very quickly.  Evidently it used to be easily available.  I haven’t seen any since that one time.                                  Good Luck,                                      Dan Dan Gracia                                                               Orvis West Coast Fly Fishing Schools If you kill that big fish you can’t catch ‘em again.  So what if they eat other fish?  If you kill the big ones there will only be little ones left (funny how that works!).

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Has anyone had any experience using horse hair, (mane in particular), in fly tying.  Any input would be appreciated.

tying some Mr. Ed Beadheads ? TimW

Response:

Has anyone had any experience using horse hair, (mane in particular), in fly tying.  Any input would be appreciated.

Horsehair bodies (over painted hook shanks) were the basis of J.W. Dunne’s theory of imitation (approx. 1920) and remained in use in Britain for some time (cf. Robert Hartman, About Fishing, 1935) — |  Donald Phillipson, 4180 Boundary Road, Carlsbad Springs,  | |        Ontario, Canada, K0A 1K0, tel. 613 822 0734         |

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Question:

I will be relocating to the Balt. area in July, probably NW of the city. Does anyone know how the fishing is in that area? Is there a TU group there? Also could use some info. on places to live. The only thing I’m locked into is the Balt. area, so I’m flexable as to where I can move. Preferably somewhere that has a great trout stream in my backyard! Thanks

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I will be relocating to the Balt. area in July, probably NW of the city. Does anyone know how the fishing is in that area? Is there a TU group there? Also could use some info. on places to live. The only thing I’m locked into is the Balt. area, so I’m flexable as to where I can move. Preferably somewhere that has a great trout stream in my backyard!

I attended my first meeting of the Gaithersburg, Md Chapter of TU last night. The guest speaker was a Professional Fly Casting Instructor whoes home waters are the Patapsco River which emptys into Baltimore Habor. He lives in Ellicott City, MD (on the Patapsco) and seemed very knowledgable. His name is Philip Krista (410-461-3007). — Alvin E. Crane 512 Suffield Drive Gaithersburg, MD 20878-2679 Voice: 301-208-8114  Fax: 301-208-8681

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The Patapsco above Ellicott City (more specifically RT. 40 bridge to the dam at Daniels) is a ball to fish for smallmouths and redeyes.  It’s a small stream, easy to wade and full of fish.  Favorite stretch?  The 100 yard stretch below the island at the steel bridge at Old Frederick Rd.   The stream bed is full of junk tires, and there’s a bass in the middle of every one.  Yellow marabou muddler minnows, #6 or 8.  Don’t forget the Potomac River, either.  It’s within an hour of Baltimore, and great to float or wade.  

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Question:

Forget it. Nothing but frustration in store for you. Get some float tubes instead.

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I would like some information regarding the usefullneess of this boat for two persons flyfishing. Specifically:

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