Question:

Does anyone know where fish spotting gets done around Australia? I know there are some in the Gulf in the prawn season.  And I seem
to recall a magazine article some years ago about tuna spotting
somewhere.  Does anyone know where else people fly for fishing
fleets, what aircraft they use, and what the work prospects are like in that industry?  Is it worth considering as an option for a newby CPL? — – Before you buy.

Response:

Harry may still be some tuna spotting out of Port Lincoln.  Usta use aerocommanders (i think) and one Cessna push pull job (although I think thats gone).   Flights of considerable duration ranging to the far west and into WA. regards Don – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Does anyone know where fish spotting gets done around Australia? I know there are some in the Gulf in the prawn season.  And I seem to recall a magazine article some years ago about tuna spotting somewhere.  Does anyone know where else people fly for fishing fleets, what aircraft they use, and what the work prospects are like in that industry?  Is it worth considering as an option for a newby CPL? — – Before you buy.

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I have seen Aero Commanders and C337’s at Ceduna SA and pretty sure some at Pt Lincoln during a fuel stop. A local flies from Triabunna (East coast Tas) with a C180 for Mackerel (I think) for the fish farms in Tas. I think he may have spotted for Tuna as well. Maybe he’ll let us know? — Bernie Samms Kingston Beach Tasmania Australia Aero Club of Southern Tasmania   www.acst.com.au Prologic Pty Ltd                           www.prologic.com.au

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Harry may still be some tuna spotting out of Port Lincoln.  Usta use aerocommanders (i think) and one Cessna push pull job (although I think thats gone).   Flights of considerable duration ranging to the far west and into WA. regards Don Does anyone know where fish spotting gets done around Australia? I know there are some in the Gulf in the prawn season.  And I seem to recall a magazine article some years ago about tuna spotting somewhere.  Does anyone know where else people fly for fishing fleets, what aircraft they use, and what the work prospects are like in that industry?  Is it worth considering as an option for a newby CPL? — – Before you buy.

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Question:

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4K Download

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This page works great on my UNIX based ASCII news reader, it’s beautiful…

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Question:

Any thoughts on the best of the intermediate casting videos?  I need to debug my casting and would like to try this before investing in an instructor.  mike

You’d be surprised what you local libray might have; and you might be able to put a hold on one that’s not in, or order it from another library.    I’ve checked out a number of them over the years.   Some fly fishing shops also rent them out. Before I teach someone how to fly fish, or even to cast, I always insist they watch the videos, first. Max http://www.inetarena.com/~mwi

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Any thoughts on the best of the intermediate casting videos?  I need to debug my casting and would like to try this before investing in an instructor.  mike

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There are a number of good casting videos.  Some of our favorites are:  "Joan Wulff’s Dynamics of Fly Casting", which is still fairly new on the market.  It covers "from solid basics to advanced techniques." $24.95 And… "Fly Casting with Lefty Kreh" ($29.95) and "All New Fly Casting Techniques", also Lefty Kreh ($19.95) Both Joan Wulff and Lefty Kreh are renouned for their casting ability. I couldn’t give you a clue on how to choose one over the other, as they are all excellent–but different. If you don’t mind spending the $, get Joan’s and one of Lefty’s.  It would be worth it. Lauren Hart, Brazos FlyFishers  http://www.brazosflyfishers.com Check out our Spring Specials posted on our website!!! – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Any thoughts on the best of the intermediate casting videos?  I need to debug my casting and would like to try this before investing in an instructor.  mike

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Question:

Hi, I’m also trying to get started into flyfishing….

I would remind you (for all beginners out there) that more important than the ‘right’ knot is a knot that you have tested before the fish takes your fly. Sounds kind of simple, but I have seen many people claim the fish ‘broke’ their line when they really didn’t check their knot before they started fishing. Also check your leader/tippet every 1/2 hour or so for abrasion. Mike mikedahl-at-nmia-com

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Hi, I’m also trying to get started into flyfishing and had a couple of questions about knots and such. 1)  What is the best knot to use when tying the fly-line to your reel?   2) What about the know to use when tying the fly-line to your leader.  Do you tend to make loops on both lines or connect them straight. 3) Do people use (i believe) tippet?  Then if so, can you tie tippet the same way as the fly-line to the leader? just curious…thanks Eric

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– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -Hi, I’m also trying to get started into flyfishing and had a couple of questions about knots and such. 1)  What is the best knot to use when tying the fly-line to your reel?   2) What about the know to use when tying the fly-line to your leader.  Do you tend to make loops on both lines or connect them straight. 3) Do people use (i believe) tippet?  Then if so, can you tie tippet the same way as the fly-line to the leader? just curious…thanks Eric

Eric, Too long of answers for these questions, pick yourself up a knot handbook at your local outfitter, many are pamphlet style and free. I have learned 10 to 20 different knots, use about 5, never paid for a book. Look for step by step illustrations, practice at your favorite sittin’ spot, not in the river. There are different knots for all of the transitions you asked about. Try to get 3M/Scientific Angler’s "A Fly Fisher’s Pocket Guide". This has good pics and tells you what to use where. Patience, Good Luck. TC

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[snipped] 1)  What is the best knot to use when tying the fly-line to your reel?  

Don’t do that Eric!  Tie on some backing line first.  Use a grinner knot and slide it down tight before you start to wind.  To gauge how much line you need from scratch try this.  Get two reels!  (Borrow one the same as yours).  Fasten the fly line to the arbour of the spare or borrowed reel with a piece of adhesive tape on the end which goes nearest the fly (most lines have a tag of paper fastened on the end which goes to the reel, you want the other end at this stage.  Wind on the line until it is all on the reel.  Then fasten the backing to the flyline.  You choose how based on the type of backing.  Nail knot for monofil backing and solid braid, sleeve and tube for hollow braid. Wind on this until the reel is full but not so full the line will drag against the reel cage.  Cut off the backing from the bulk spool.  Tie this now to the spool of your reel that you will be using.  Wind on the line as neatly as you can pulling the line free of the tape.  Now you are set. 2) What about the know to use when tying the fly-line to your leader.   Do you tend to make loops on both lines or connect them straight.

Don’t do that either! If the leader is monofil tie a sacrificial butt of heavy monofil to the line using either a nail or needle knot.  Both are neat.  If the leader is partially braid then use the braid connection method of feeding the line into the braid and pulling tight then passing a tube over the loose ends of braid. To either of these sacrificial butts (about 2 feet long is Ok but you may prefer longer) tie your leader using a four turn water knot. 3) Do people use (i believe) tippet?  Then if so, can you tie tippet the same way as the fly-line to the leader?

Tippet is just the name for the last bit of leader to which you attach your fly.  It is made of monofil usually. just curious…thanks

Good idea to be curious it helps you get things right. richard

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– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – ….[snip]   2)What about the knot to use when tying the fly-line to your leader. I may be a little strange, but I prefer to use the "Leader Link".  For those of you who haven’t seen one, it is a little nylon sleeve and you slide your line in one end and tie an overhand knot and slide your leader into the other end and tie an overhand knot, then trim off the excess. What I like about it is the speed I can change leaders.  I carry pre tied leaders in my vest and when a tippet gets too short or I want a different leader I just clip it off and tie another one on.  I repair the old leaders in the evening, not while I am fishing.   Ernie Harrison I have found the system used by Orvis to be very handy. The fly line has a small loop at the end, as does the leader. You simply thread the two lines together. It makes it easy to change leaders without cutting, so your line and leader do not get a bit shorter each time. In theory a nail knot is smoother than this type of connection, but since the line-leader connection never goes through your guides and should never get near a fish I do not see what difference it makes. I am a beginner, so there may be things I am missing.

My line/leader connection goes through my guides quite often while I am fishing.  Granted, it doesn’t while I’m actually casting but if I’m fishing smaller streams I’m often on the move in between spots as much  I am actually casting.  Often the  terrain can be rock or I might have to climb over fallen trees or work my way through dense brush.  Winding in my line and attaching my fly to the hook holder makes it a lot easier to get between fishing spots without snagging my line.  When I arrive at the next pool it can get pretty annoying if the line/leader connection get stuck in the guides.  Often it can result in spooking a fish. After using braided loops under these conditions I’m going to switch back to nail knots or, the "superglue" leader/line connection that I had shown to me at the Delaware River Club by Bob Nastassi. Can anyone tell me if this loop system is unique to Orvis, or do other manufacturers use it too?

I’ve used the Orvis loops and another vendor as well.   Are you using just the loop or the braided loop as well? John Fereira Stop Unsolicited Commercial Email – Join CAUCE (http://www.cauce.org) Support HR 1748, the anti-spam bill.

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Hi, I’m also trying to get started into flyfishing and had a couple of questions about knots and such. 1)  What is the best knot to use when tying the fly-line to your reel?   2) What about the know to use when tying the fly-line to your leader.  Do you tend to make loops on both lines or connect them straight. 3) Do people use (i believe) tippet?  Then if so, can you tie tippet the same way as the fly-line to the leader? just curious…thanks Eric

Hey Eric, I am just "emgerging" from the beginner stage. I have found these knots helpful: Backing to reel: Arbor Knot Line to Backing: Albright knot Line to leader: Nail knot or I prefer to tie loops and inter connect like the Orvis system.  You could also purchase the glue on end or the Orvis line with the loop end from the factory. When your leader gets shorter you can tie on 2-4 foot sections of tippet with a surgeons knot. The Berkley web site has some knots diagramed.     Remove "tt" to respond by e-mail (anti spam)

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– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – ….[snip]   2)What about the knot to use when tying the fly-line to your leader. I may be a little strange, but I prefer to use the "Leader Link".  For those of you who haven’t seen one, it is a little nylon sleeve and you slide your line in one end and tie an overhand knot and slide your leader into the other end and tie an overhand knot, then trim off the excess. What I like about it is the speed I can change leaders.  I carry pre tied leaders in my vest and when a tippet gets too short or I want a different leader I just clip it off and tie another one on.  I repair the old leaders in the evening, not while I am fishing.   Ernie Harrison

I have found the system used by Orvis to be very handy. The fly line has a small loop at the end, as does the leader. You simply thread the two lines together. It makes it easy to change leaders without cutting, so your line and leader do not get a bit shorter each time. In theory a nail knot is smoother than this type of connection, but since the line-leader connection never goes through your guides and should never get near a fish I do not see what difference it makes. I am a beginner, so there may be things I am missing. Can anyone tell me if this loop system is unique to Orvis, or do other manufacturers use it too? Peter G. Aitken

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Here is a URL for commonly used knots: http://www.flyshop.com/tactics/12-96Knots/index.html There is a book Co-authored my Mark Sosin (I can’t remember the title, but it is a yellow paperback) that has every knot you could imagine with a strength rating. You may not (no pun intended!) need all the info it, but I needed the special salt water leader knots.  But then again, I am an Assistant Scoutmaster and we’re nuts about knots anyway.

"Practical Fishing Knots II" by Mark Sosin and Lefty Kreh is the latest version I have. ISBN 1-55821-102-0. — Charlie…

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You might try the "nail-less" nail knot.  I find it to be just as effective as the real thing and you don’t have to carry around one of those little tools (or pay for it either). —                                                            -dnc- – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – ….[snip]   2)What about the knot to use when tying the fly-line to your leader. Use the Nail knot, you can buy a tool now to tie it alot easier I use it all the time.It about $6 dollars

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….[snip]   2)What about the knot to use when tying the fly-line to your leader.

I may be a little strange, but I prefer to use the "Leader Link".  For those of you who haven’t seen one, it is a little nylon sleeve and you slide your line in one end and tie an overhand knot and slide your leader into the other end and tie an overhand knot, then trim off the excess. What I like about it is the speed I can change leaders.  I carry pre tied leaders in my vest and when a tippet gets too short or I want a different leader I just clip it off and tie another one on.  I repair the old leaders in the evening, not while I am fishing.   Ernie Harrison

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Here is a URL for commonly used knots: http://www.flyshop.com/tactics/12-96Knots/index.html There is a book Co-authored my Mark Sosin (I can’t remember the title, but it is a yellow paperback) that has every knot you could imagine with a strength rating. You may not (no pun intended!) need all the info it, but I needed the special salt water leader knots.  But then again, I am an Assistant Scoutmaster and we’re nuts about knots anyway. — William J. Hobson, CNE,CNA Network and Computing Support Services Texas Engineering Experiment Station Phone: (409) 845-5808

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1)What is the best knot to use when tying the fly-line to your reel? The best knot that I know of is the Duncan loop, much stronger than the Arbor knot which alot fisherman use. 2)What about the knot to use when tying the fly-line to your leader. Use the Nail knot, you can buy a tool now to tie it alot easier I use it all the time.It about $6 dollars Do you tend to make loops on both lines or connect them straight?. If you prefer, an easier way is just to buy a or make a braided leader loop on your fly line, then purchase a braided leader, and than all you have to do is add tippet.One thing with braided leaders, is if you get snaged on the bottom, the tippet breaks first, and you won’t wreck or lose your leader. They are good, there’s doubt, but expensive never the less. 3)Do people use (i believe) tippet?  Then if so, can you tie tippet the same way as the fly-line to the leader? From experience, use the Double Surgeons knot, it’s simple and easy to tie. I find that the best knot ever developed is the blood knot for tying tippet to my leader. I have practiced this knot enough so that I can tie it even when it’s windy on the stream. Alot stronger than the knot abouve, but try and find a knot that you can tie, even if isn’t the one’s I mentioned.Success starts here for flyfishing,it’s really that simple. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Eric

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1)  What is the best knot to use when tying the fly-line to your reel?   2) What about the know to use when tying the fly-line to your leader.  Do you tend to make loops on both lines or connect them straight. 3) Do people use (i believe) tippet?  Then if so, can you tie tippet the same way as the fly-line to the leader?

Every angler needs to know knots for these purposes: A.  Nylon to nylon:  the blood knot requires practice but gives you a nice straight line. B.  Nylon to hook:  the turle knot is not particularly strong but also gives you a nice straight line. C.  Fly line to something finer, e.g. backing or leader butt:  the needle knot does this well. Thus to answer Sherman: 1.  If there is backing under the fly line, almost anything will do. I use a large loop myself (which facilitates swapping lines and spools if you ever need to.) 2.  Double loops require learning one or two extra knots.  A permanent leader butt fastened to the end of the fly line by a needle knot will last almost as long as the fly line. 3.  "Tippet" is the finest part of the leader.  Since you lose an inch of tippet every time you change flies it gets shorter: and should be wholly replaced when it gets too short for efficiency.  If you can tie a good blood knot, you replace only the tippet, not the whole leader. — |  Donald Phillipson, 4180 Boundary Road, Carlsbad Springs,  | |        Ontario, Canada, K0A 1K0, tel. 613 822 0734         |

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Question:

I have a question concerning nymphing…I learned that one should dead drift a nymph (holding the rod high) through riffles, pocket-water, along seams, etc.. I was on the DePuys outside of Livingston.

True, generally that’s a good idea (dead drifting).  Some times I find it effective to impart a slight twich every couple of seconds as the fly drifts. But that depends on the pattern I am fishing (e.g., ameletus immitation). life…these generally don’t have the capability to swim in the current,

Not so, there are swimmers such as the ameletus, which swims as fast as a minnow.  But anyway, even the nonswimming crawlers get dislodged in riffles while moving from one place to another, maybe foraging.  Some types of nymphs, e.g. the stonefly, crawl to shore to hatch and may be dislodged by fast currents and drift in the current. How does this impact presentation?? Favorite patterns: B-H squirrel tail, B-H telico, B-H Hare’s ear…all 10-16

These are caddis and mayfly imitations and a dead drift is fine.  They rise to the surface and hatch, or hatch while rising to the surface. -Burton — L. Burton Hawley           2330 NW Hummingbird Corvallis, OR

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Not so, there are swimmers such as the ameletus, which swims as fast as a Hello Burton, I’m not familiar with the ameletus. Can you tell me a little about it?

Glad to Fred!  Ameletus (Genus) belongs to the Family Siphlonuridae.  It seems to be a distinctly western genus of mayflies.  Sixteen species are recorded from the West, and only four from the rest of the country.  They have been know to emerge in both the opening and closing weeks of the trout season, and often in between.  This is probably because of the large number of species.  They are a reddish-brown color (nymph and dun, I use a Hendrickson shade of dubbing to tie), and the nymph has short antennae small single, oval gills on abdominal segments 1-7 and the leading edges of the gills have a dark sclerotized band.  Three tails fringed with interlocking hairs and have one to several dark bands accross them near the tip (very distinctive, I use golden pheasant tippet for my imitation).  The have a broad head with large eyes on the side.  Size varies 6-14 mm(1/4-1/2 in.).   On specimens I have collected one or more of the abdominal segments on the underside is white. Their distribution is quite wide throughout the west, but some of the best populations are found in high mtn. streams of the Rockies where they have been collected at altitudes up to 11,000 ft.  They are commonly found in small, rapid streams, near but not *in* fast water.  They rrest on clean stones, vegetation, or debris.  They have been found all the way from small coastal streams to large desert rivers (not found in lakes).  They often inhabit deep undercut banks, away from the main current, the same places inhabited by large trout. Which is probably why it took us so long to discover them on a streach of river we knew held fish but couldn’t figure out what they fed on.  As a last resort we swept out a handfull of vegetation and debris from under the bank. The little critters were flying all over the place.  As I mentioned before, they swim with minnow-like speed.   Disturbances as I mentioned, send them scurring for better cover.  Their active swimming behavoir makes them readily available to trout. Ameletus have a one-year life cycle and the nymphs feed on algae or other plant material.  When mature they select a quiet area near the water’s edge to emerge.  The nymphs crawl from the water on plant stems, twigs, rocks or logs, like their sister genus Siphlorurus.  It may take fifteen minutes for the dun to free itself from the nymphal shuck.  Since they emerge above water the duns are seldom available to fish.  Spinner flights have never been recorded in any literature and mating may take place far from the water or high above it. It’s an interesting bug, and well worth looking for.  We have taken some nice fish on the nymph imitations.  When shown a picture of the bug by Dave McNeese, Polly Rosborough thought it was his Isonychia bicolor.  The color is similar and because of this it may have been misidentified or largely ignored by fly fishing writers. Well, there’s more than you ever wanted to know about Ameletus. Tight Lines, -Burton — L. Burton Hawley           2330 NW Hummingbird Corvallis, OR

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- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I have a question concerning nymphing…I learned that one should dead drift a nymph (holding the rod high) through riffles, pocket-water, along seams, etc.. I was on the DePuys outside of Livingston. <snip lots of great stuff        The guiding principle of when to use which technique is to understand which insect one is trying to imitate… In unfamiliar water with unfamiliar insects, the technique you described is often the best place to start…  If it doesn’t produce and you know there are fish there, do a bit of stream bottom research and change accordingly. Alan,

Nice summary on nymphing technique.  I really didn’t address technique.  If John wants to learn more about technique I suggest he try to obtain a copy of Charles E. Brooks excellent book "Nymph Fishing For Larger Trout" (ISBN 0-8329-0330-2) in which he discusses all aspects of nymph fishing (10 methods even). Tight Lines, -Burton — L. Burton Hawley Corvallis, OR          "Those children that you spit on           as they try to change their world,           are immune to your consultations,           and are quite aware of what they are                    going through."      "Changes"      David Bowie

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Hey folks, I have a question concerning nymphing…I learned that one should dead drift a nymph (holding the rod high) through riffles, pocket-water, along seams, etc.. I was on the DePuys outside of Livingston. I see a number of FFers fishing nymphs downstream…I assume that some are using streamers…but I was under the impression that a nymph pattern was immitating (obviously??) nymphal stages of insect life…these generally don’t have the capability to swim in the current, right? So wouldn’t fishing downstream cause them to swing across the current or drag through the water creating non-natural movement of the nymph? I mostly fish the Chattahoochee or rivers/streams in the North Georgia Moutains…much faster than the slower spring creeks out West…the Hooch can be fairly deep in some places( 10ft) but I tend to wade the 2-4ft areas and most of the streams in N. GA that I fish are around 2-3ft with pools about 4-5ft in depth.   How does this impact presentation?? Favorite patterns: B-H squirrel tail, B-H telico, B-H Hare’s ear…all 10-16 Any and all techniques appreciated. Thanks, -John *       John Carney        * * Fly Fisher & Parrot Head *

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Not so, there are swimmers such as the ameletus, which swims as fast as a minnow.  But anyway, even the nonswimming crawlers get dislodged in riffles while moving from one place to another, maybe foraging.  Some types of nymphs, e.g. the stonefly, crawl to shore to hatch and may be dislodged by fast currents and drift in the current.

Hello Burton, I’m not familiar with the ameletus. Can you tell me a little about it? Thanks,

Response:

I have a question concerning nymphing…I learned that one should dead drift a nymph (holding the rod high) through riffles, pocket-water, along seams, etc.. I was on the DePuys outside of Livingston.

<snip John,      I spent a very long time trying to catch trout with nymphs before I ever got a single hit…..then a kind gentleman, Chuck Davidison showed me how to do the normal "dead drift"….. but since have learned how and now prefer when there is no surface activity to use nymphs…. as it is very deadly..         Clearly dead drift is one of the best techniques for nymphing…..  with the line so slack you do not impart artificial movement or underwater drag to the fly… but with the line so taut that you can instantly sense any pick up…… *but* there are many other good presentations…. One I love in deep quiet pools is the "Bergman" crawl…. described in Ray Bergman’s "Trout"…. letting a nymph settle all the way to the bottom of a pool and then slowly with the fingers of the left hand (for right handed l….) sllllloooooooowwwwly winding in the fly line to crawl the nymph over the bottom….. has the advantage of imparting a realistic move, yet allowing instant telegraph of a pick-up.        Another effective technique a few days before the white miller hatch in July in Pa. is to use a perfectly white nymph with a bit of a tail.  Make very fast 12 inch jerks or strips of the fly line while there is a down and across drift.   space the strips a few seconds apart and make sure the nymph is within an inch of the bottom… You may need to dip you rod tip underwater….  this nymph is a swimmer and a fast swimmer and is quite active the few days before the duns appear at dusk… the best time to use this technique.        Another is the Leisenring lift named for Jim Leisenring noting that many nymphs rise to the surface *immediately* prior to the dun-on-the-water phase in a manner of completing an arc from the bottom and moving to the surface faster near the end of the rise… this is simulated by dead drifting and then as the fly swings past the fisherperson, allowing the line to tighten then smoothly lifting the rod to do the Leisenring lift…. The trout will take the fly about 5 inches below the surface.        The guiding principle of when to use which technique is to understand which insect one is trying to imitate… In unfamiliar water with unfamiliar insects, the technique you described is often the best place to start…  If it doesn’t produce and you know there are fish there, do a bit of stream bottom research and change accordingly. Tightlines, Alan E. Hoover Anglers’ Rest Powhatan, Va        *the trout teach many, lessons*

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John, Please take the following with my usual caveat: I don’t consider myself or my opinions expert. Re: fishing nymphs downstream…while I have been on a near 10-year dry fly love-fest, I can remember a few things from my previous fishing life. I was weaned on multiple wet-flys and have caught hundreds of trout using the old down-and-across. It has been my observation that as the fly swings across the current it is popped upward just like a nymph heading for the surface. With practice, one can time this "emergence" to occur in likely trout lies. Same applies to downstream nymphing, but you must exercise much more restraint in setting the hook (hooking angle is terrible…too quick, and you pull it right out his mouth), while the "swing" is often a self-hooking affair. Since my wonderful (seriously) wife found me a good straight bamboo at an auction this summer, I am planning a return to my "three-at-a-time-swing", for old time’s sake if nothing else. As far as specific techniques…that will come if you pay attention to what’s happening. One word of advice that has really helped me: If you can’t spit in his eye, you’re casting too far. Good luck. — Jim Marple "He went fishing…call back at dark thirty."

snip I see a number of FFers fishing nymphs downstream…I assume that some are using streamers…but I was under the impression that a nymph pattern was immitating (obviously??) nymphal stages of insect life…these generally don’t have the capability to swim in the current, right? So wouldn’t fishing downstream cause them to swing across the current or drag through the water creating non-natural movement of the nymph?

snip – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – *       John Carney        * * Fly Fisher & Parrot Head *

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John: When the water is clear and the trout can see all, you sometimes have to present the nymph on a downstream cast.  The angler should then release line thru the rod guides to give the nymph a drag free float before it swings to the side of the stream. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Hey folks, I have a question concerning nymphing…I learned that one should dead drift a nymph (holding the rod high) through riffles, pocket-water, along seams, etc.. I was on the DePuys outside of Livingston. I see a number of FFers fishing nymphs downstream…I assume that some are using streamers…but I was under the impression that a nymph pattern was immitating (obviously??) nymphal stages of insect life…these generally don’t have the capability to swim in the current, right? So wouldn’t fishing downstream cause them to swing across the current or drag through the water creating non-natural movement of the nymph? I mostly fish the Chattahoochee or rivers/streams in the North Georgia Moutains…much faster than the slower spring creeks out West…the Hooch can be fairly deep in some places( 10ft) but I tend to wade the 2-4ft areas and most of the streams in N. GA that I fish are around 2-3ft with pools about 4-5ft in depth.   How does this impact presentation?? Favorite patterns: B-H squirrel tail, B-H telico, B-H Hare’s ear…all 10-16 Any and all techniques appreciated. Thanks, -John *       John Carney        * * Fly Fisher & Parrot Head *

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some really excellent info clipped < Alan E. Hoover Anglers’ Rest Powhatan, Va        *the trout teach many, lessons*

Alan (et. al.), Thanks for the info folks…today the weather is bright, clear and 70 degrees! I’m hoping that the Hooch won’t look like YooHoo by this weekend….we have a lot of construction north of Atlanta and the runoff from the red clay really gets bad… However, there are other places…a few more days of this weather and the hatch will be on!  Gosh, I feel an illness coming on…;-D –John *       John Carney        * * Fly Fisher & Parrot Head *

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Question:

Hope the season is fishing well for all!  The long winter here in Minnesota is finally a memmory.  The fishing has been great.  Going to visit Mom who is now living in Nova Scotia, Canada.  How is the fly fishing there.  Mid August.  Striped bass?  Bluefish?  Salmon? Should I pack the fly gear or dust off the surf casting rig?  Any input would be great.  Any questions about Minn/ western Wisconsin? Good fishing!

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The best spot in Nova Scotia is the Margaree Valley, and they are having some trouble there. Last fall we stayed at the Big Intervale Salmon Camp, in Cape Breton Nova Scotia, and cannot say enough great things about it. Absolutely wonderful host…Bill Davison (mum is head chef), but not many bites. Bill is very knowledgeable about the situation in Nova Scotia and I would be glad to track down a number at the lodge for you…we have something around here somewhere…also check out the Saint Mary’s River area on the Eastern Shore of the province…and also what might be happening in New Brunswick… Hope the season is fishing well for all!  The long winter here in Minnesota is finally a memmory.  The fishing has been great.  Going to visit Mom who is now living in Nova Scotia, Canada.  How is the fly fishing there.  Mid August.  Striped bass?  Bluefish?  Salmon? Should I pack the fly gear or dust off the surf casting rig?  Any input would be great.  Any questions about Minn/ western Wisconsin? Good fishing!

– http://fox.nstn.ca/~bpower

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Question:

I am a westerner now living in Virginia courtest of the US Navy.  I was getting my float tube all ready for spring to try some ffishing for bass (something I’ve never done) when my neighbor told me I was nuts.  He said that the lakes out here have plenty of snapping turtles and water moccasins, and that no one would be dumb enough to go out there in a float tube.  Then I realized that I have never seen one in any of the lakes out here.   Can any of you southerners give me some advice??                                                                               *Duke*

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I’ve float-tubed numerous southern lakes and streams without incident. As long as you’re wearing shorts or pants — I wouldn’t worry about the snapping turtles. And the snakes seem to always move out of the way. Think about it — the sight of flippered-feet and legs dangling from an oversized donut must be a pretty frightening invasion to most water critters. Fear of snakes and such is a state of mind.

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(snip) Think about it — the sight of flippered-feet and legs dangling from an oversized donut must be a pretty frightening invasion to most water critters. Fear of snakes and such is a state of mind.

We have a thing in the water here in Florida that *will* bite you.   It’s call ALLIGATOR!

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Snakes haven’t been a problem, but I don’t use a tube in the East Texas waters that are full of snapping turtles.  Brian Camp, in Ft. Worth, has a great picture of a snapper clamped on to his fins!

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: :I’ve float-tubed numerous southern lakes and streams without incident. As :long as you’re wearing shorts or pants — I wouldn’t worry about the :snapping turtles. And the snakes seem to always move out of the way. :Think about it — the sight of flippered-feet and legs dangling from an versized donut must be a pretty frightening invasion to most water :critters. Fear of snakes and such is a state of mind. Amen, so have I.  I think his neighbor was having a little fun at his expense.  Never had a snapping turtle get close enough to try and shoo him away and all the "moc’s" took off for other parts with a simple tap of the rod tip a couple of feet ahead of them.  I wouldn’t waste more than 5 seconds worrying about it.

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I am a westerner now living in Virginia courtest of the US Navy.  I was getting my float tube all ready for spring to try some ffishing for bass (something I’ve never done) when my neighbor told me I was nuts.  He said that the lakes out here have plenty of snapping turtles and water moccasins, and that no one would be dumb enough to go out there in a float tube.  Then I realized that I have never seen one in any of the lakes out here.   Can any of you southerners give me some advice??                                                                              *Duke*

Duke – I once had a snapping turtle take a clouser minnow.  Needless to say, I did not bring him to the net.  Maybe with a 14-wt. rod, steel leaders, we could start a whole new branch of fly fishing…… Seriously, I agree with the other posts that you have little to fear from aquatic reptiles, unless there are alligators about.       Gene

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I am a westerner now living in Virginia courtest of the US Navy.  I was getting my float tube all ready for spring to try some ffishing for bass (something I’ve never done) when my neighbor told me I was nuts.  He said that the lakes out here have plenty of snapping turtles and water moccasins, and that no one would be dumb enough to go out there in a float tube.  Then I realized that I have never seen one in any of the lakes out here.   Can any of you southerners give me some advice??                                                                              *Duke*

I have had moccasins act very agressively while protecting the nesting area in late spring/early summer.  Otherwise,  moccasins seem reciprocate the respect you show them.

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I am a westerner now living in Virginia courtest of the US Navy.  I was getting my float tube all ready for spring to try some ffishing for bass (something I’ve never done) when my neighbor told me I was nuts.  He said that the lakes out here have plenty of snapping turtles and water moccasins, and that no one would be dumb enough to go out there in a float tube.  Then I realized that I have never seen one in any of the lakes out here.   Can any of you southerners give me some advice?? Don’t worry about em’. Just keep on good watch, (which you should be

on already) and don’t try to pick one up or approach closely. I’ve had some *very* close encounters and they all tried to run out of the country. Besides, most of the  snakes you see are water snakes, even if they are black. I was at a speech once and this guy was fishing from his float tube and had a 100 pound snapping turtle pulling his leg. No damage though. Make up your own mind, or get a boat.                    Aaron Zee

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The problem with snapping turtles is that it is impossible to get them to rise to a dry fly – just doesn’t happen.  But if you take a 2 or 1/0 weighted bass fly – pattern unimportant, leave it sitting in a chunk of liver overnight and slowly fish the riffles with a rapidly sinking line you’ll find that snappers put up a hell of a fight.  In parts of the Mississippi basin there is a spring run of alligator snappers which is really something.  Try tarpon tackle for these boys…  good luck.

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The problem with snapping turtles is that it is impossible to get them to rise to a dry fly – just doesn’t happen.  But if you take a 2 or 1/0 weighted bass fly – pattern unimportant, leave it sitting in a chunk of liver overnight and slowly fish the riffles with a rapidly sinking line you’ll find that snappers put up a hell of a fight.  In parts of the Mississippi basin there is a spring run of alligator snappers which is really something.  Try tarpon tackle for these boys…  good luck.

Actually, I find I can get ‘em on size 26 midges fished in front of a "cruising" snapper. Well maybe not, but I have actually seen red ears feeding on size 18 hatching midges before, so I bet it’s possible, and I have hooked red ears on the shell (hook got caught on underside on shell, did not penetrate anything) before while fishing streamers, they don’t put up a good fight though. Turtles: fly fishing’s new frontier… Aaron Zee

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Question:

        My Fly Fishing Club,  The Kisatchie Fly Fishers,  is considering affiliating with the Federation of Fly Fishers.  I was appointed to find out what is required and how much it costs.  I need some information on who to call and talk to or who write to.         Our club is only a year old and in this part of Louisiana, Alexandria,  dead in the middle of the State,  fly fishing is not the traditional favorite that it is in many other parts of the country. I would appreciate any advice anyone in the group has to offer concerning affiliation.         Thanks in advance                 Tom

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Hi Tom, I’m glad to see you are planning on affliating with the Federation of Fly Fishers.  They are a good group.  For information on affiliation, etc. call the National Office at 1-800-618-0808. Good Luck Al Beatty (former FFF President) BT’s Fly Fishing Products Bozeman, MT

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   My Fly Fishing Club,  The Kisatchie Fly Fishers,  is considering affiliating with the Federation of Fly Fishers.

The FFF is a good organization to join to help support your fly fishing fix. They have all kinds of publications and ideas to help build membership in your club, hence their club. It costs $25 for a club to join for up to 25 members. Any members more than $25 are an extra $1 per member.

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One thing to consider if you want to FF from a canoe is that you’ll be only marginally higher out of the water than if you are in a float tube; you can stand up in a cartopper, but a canoe …. Consequently, you might want to consider a longer rod (as the tubers often pack). A 10ft rod will keep your backcast drier than an 8ft one. Or, preferably, work on your casting to keep the back cast out of the water.   Sitting in a canoe you’re at least as high out of the water as you typically are when wading.  So, if you’re hitting the water behind you in a canoe, you’re almost certainly doing the same thing when wading–i.e., you casting could use some help. And improving your casting is cheaper than buying another, longer rod. Emil

I would have to agree there.  Canoes are great.  I use one on Lake Cayuga in NY, and I dont know about anyone else, but if you are somewhat able, I have never had any problems standing. Jon

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I’ve found that if you’re right-handed, it helps to cast from the right side of the canoe, parallel with its length, i.e. not across the beam. And try not to let the stripped line get tangled up in the paddle, float jacket and six-pack and/or your ankle in the bottom of the boat. When the mother of all basses hits, you don’t want to be pulled overboard to your doom like some freshwater Captain Ahab. Course, I could think of worse ways to go…. Sent Via SportsNet On-Line Services Toronto’s Premier Sports and Recreation Service Modem: 416-223-2463    Phone: 416-223-2250 Ext. 33

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Good for you!  I’m convinced float tubes became popular when folks no longer had time to lean to paddle.  For range, keeping dry and all-round fun canoes are are wonderful.  now if you want to get really frisky learn to pole upstream. — ** Louis Bignami, Publisher         http://www.finefishing.com Fine Fishing Internet Magazine                "largest fishing mag on the Net" **

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best thing about fishing from a canoe…even if the fish aren’t bitin’ you’re, well, in that canoe… Tim Walker

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Personally, I love canoes too,they are just prettier and much more versatile than any other watercraft, especially when you add options to a standard canoe. Consider these advantages: -Canoes are inherently more hydrodynamic than a john boat, and move through the water with less effort (how much less depends on hull shape.) -Because they’re streamlined at both ends, canoes move forward easily yet still easily "hold" in a good spot against a swift river current hitting the stern. -A kneeling canoeist can be as stealthy as a float tuber and cover much more water. (Though admittedly, a float tuber can move without having to put the rod down.) – A long, narrow, fast canoe can be converted to a "john boat like"  slow, stable craft by adding solid foam or inflatable sponsons (aka swimmies or water wings). These canoe ‘training wheels’ install in seconds and may not add much drag at all.  They’re a God send when you want to stand up to spot fish or when running unfamiliar big rapids. -Adding gunnel mounted oarlocks or a rowing frame to an already fast canoe will get the lone angler across the lake or up the river faster than any other non-motorized fishing craft (including a kayak). – There are "collapsible canoes" available from Ally and ScanSports which can store in a closet, or travel in the trunk of compact car, a float plane or as checked baggage on an airliner. -You can add a motor mount to almost any canoe for long hauls against wind or current. I could go on, but if you’re only going to get one craft to handle every possible fly fishing situation, get a canoe.  This doesn’t rule out the possibility that for the type of fishing you do most, another craft may be just as good or better.  You be the judge. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – When considering a canoe for fishing, make sure you can easily paddle it. Beamy boats are great for short hauls but if you’re going to where the fish are and the other guys in the beamy boats aren’t get a boat that you can paddle.  A solo boat is okay if you don’t have or don’t want any friends.  Suggest a boat in the 14 to 15 foot range that could handle a center paddling position ( add a seat yourself) and then you’d have a boat that could get you there. Good tumblehome to make paddling a little easier.  Suggest learning to fish from the seated or kneeling position…or if you’re real good try standing on the gunwhales 8/]) TK

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: When considering a canoe for fishing, make sure you can easily paddle it. : Beamy boats are great for short hauls but if you’re going to where the : fish are and the other guys in the beamy boats aren’t get a boat that you : can paddle.  A solo boat is okay if you don’t have or don’t want any : friends.  Suggest a boat in the 14 to 15 foot range that could handle a : center paddling position ( add a seat yourself) and then you’d have a boat : that could get you there. Good tumblehome to make paddling a little : easier.  Suggest learning to fish from the seated or kneeling : position…or if you’re real good try standing on the gunwhales 8/]) One thing to consider if you want to FF from a canoe is that you’ll be only marginally higher out of the water than if you are in a float tube; you can stand up in a cartopper, but a canoe …. Consequently, you might want to consider a longer rod (as the tubers often pack). A 10ft rod will keep your backcast drier than an 8ft one. — 3798 Woodland Drive     voice: (604) 368-9315 Trail, BC               data:  (604) 368-9341

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– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – : When considering a canoe for fishing, make sure you can easily paddle it. : Beamy boats are great for short hauls but if you’re going to where the : fish are and the other guys in the beamy boats aren’t get a boat that you : can paddle.  A solo boat is okay if you don’t have or don’t want any : friends.  Suggest a boat in the 14 to 15 foot range that could handle a : center paddling position ( add a seat yourself) and then you’d have a boat : that could get you there. Good tumblehome to make paddling a little : easier.  Suggest learning to fish from the seated or kneeling : position…or if you’re real good try standing on the gunwhales 8/]) One thing to consider if you want to FF from a canoe is that you’ll be only marginally higher out of the water than if you are in a float tube; you can stand up in a cartopper, but a canoe …. Consequently, you might want to consider a longer rod (as the tubers often pack). A 10ft rod will keep your backcast drier than an 8ft one.

Or, preferably, work on your casting to keep the back cast out of the water.   Sitting in a canoe you’re at least as high out of the water as you typically are when wading.  So, if you’re hitting the water behind you in a canoe, you’re almost certainly doing the same thing when wading–i.e., you casting could use some help. And improving your casting is cheaper than buying another, longer rod. Emil Department of Education Phone:  (607) 255-2267 419 Kennedy Hall                Fax:    (607) 255-7905 Cornell University Ithaca, NY 14853

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‘Course, I just think that canoes are wonderful so I’m biased. I can also cast 50′ easily from a sitting position, about as far as I need

to. Any recomemndations for the best 1 person canoe for streams and rivers? Thanx, Mike

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‘Course, I just think that canoes are wonderful so I’m biased. I can also cast 50′ easily from a sitting position, about as far as I need to. Any recomemndations for the best 1 person canoe for streams and rivers? Thanx, Mike

Mike,  I would take a serious look at the OldTown line of canoes. They have a few models that are ideal for your situation. I have the Dicovery 133K and it is a dream to fish from. The ruggedness coupled with the 40 1/2" beam makes it a great fly fishing vessel.                                     Best of Luck,                                                    Jay              /Leave nothing but footprints                                               /                                              /                                             /                                            /                                           /                                       O  /                                       |_/o                                       |                                      / |

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Question:

I am a begining fly fisherman and I am going to be working in canon city, co for the summer. I will be there from May 15- August 15. I would appreciate any suggestions on good places to fish, shops for flys, and approximate times of good hatches. In other words any help would be appreciated. thanks in advance. Paul

You’ll be living right by the headwaters of the Arkansas River, which has some decent trout (so I’ve heard, haven’t gotten down there yet). Also, you won’t be too far from the South Platte, which is pretty famous for awesome catch & release only, artificial flies & lures (barbless hooks) only fishing. The South Platte will be about 1.5 to 2 hours drive from Canon City, either north into Colorado Springs and then West on route 24 to Woodland Park, and north on route 67 to Deckers, or continue through Woodland Park to Lake George, and go up Elevenmile Canyon road (3 dollar access fee you pay at a self-serve station), to the river. I’m still new at the insect hatches, so can’t give you anything of value in that area. Pick up a copy of the Colorado Angling Guide when you get here, or before if you can find it. It’s got a nice collection of Forest Service maps of the areas. As for shops, I know the Angler’s Covey on 8th and West Colorado Ave in Colorado Springs is a great place for fly fishing supplies and advice, although you should be able to find something in Canon City as well, use the yellow pages. — Scott Ferguson                               My views are not necessarily Cray Computer Corporation                    those of Cray Computer Corp.

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I am a begining fly fisherman and I am going to be working in canon city, co for the summer. I will be there from May 15- August 15. I would appreciate any suggestions on good places to fish, shops for flys, and approximate times of good hatches. In other words any help would be appreciated. thanks in advance. Paul

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