Question:

there’s a chance some smaller schoolie stripers will still be in the river. Shad will most likely be gone, but the smallmouth action should be fantastic. Oh yeah, when Rick and I got to the dock on Sunday afternoon " Dock Lady " ( you have to meet her in person, words can’t really adequetly describe her ) … Is she the one who is in the last Sage catalog ?

Haven’t seen the latest Sage catalog but I can guarantee that’s not her.

Response:

Fishing out of Fletchers Sunday and Monday: lots of BIG hickory shad, caught on the outgoing tide-using Teeny 250 or 300 lines, 6′ hunk of 12lb test Maxima for a leader ( God bless Maxima but I hate those fucking archaic spools theyl put the stuff on ) casting slightly upstream and usually getting a hit on the start of the swing. Flies on the small side-size 6 to 8 clousers with short tails-white with gold flash and chartruese with gold flash . I was getting alot of misses till I chopped off the tails to within about 3/8" of the hook bend , after that it was Heaven.Last cast of the day Monday I hooked an American shad, about 3 or 4 times the size and heft of the hickories. Last couple years the Americans were running about as big as that species can get, up to 30"s. This one took me into my backing about 50-75′. It took a long damn time to wind all that line in after it threw the hook that’s for sure. The Americans should be starting to come on strong now, the water’s warming up and clearing. They like the stretch of water just up from Fletchers dock area, on a rising tide and then right up till slack tide. They come there to spawn. Most of the hickory action’s been on the falling tides. The female stripers are running up to 40lbs. and the cut herring/bottom fishing guys have been hauling in a bunch. I keep trying for them but all I do is lose expensive flies in the rocks. Would it be that terrible to soak a fly or two in a bucket of herring chum and then run my leader through a slip sinker and just sorta drop it over the side of the boat while I eat lunch or something ? I’ll have to sleep on that. Anyway the male stripers are expected by the end of the week and they’ll be possible to catch using ethical methods The river should be low enough for safe wading by the end of the week too if the levels keep dropping at a steady clip. Oh yeah, when my Rick and I got to the dock on Sunday afternoon " Dock Lady " ( you have to meet her in person, words can’t really adequetly describe her ) told us everyone coming off the river was pissed at us because we two flyrodders were taking shad right and left all day and they, the spinning guys were only hitting them off and on and "they said you two bastards must be doing something illegal ". Even allowing for "Dock Ladys" habit of slight exageration it still was good to hear. It’s usually the other way around. cheers, Bob nursing a painfully pleasant case of "shad elbow"

Response:

Hello East Coasters, We are catching Stripers in the Sacramento, Feather and American Rivers now too as our big spring spawning run has started (April/May/June). This is south(downstream) and north(upstream) of Sacramento. The main runs will go all the way upstream (north) to Colusa and above on the Sacramento River. We fish them wading and from boats. Some of our friends caught some Stripers on flies yesterday and today. The American Shad are just behind the Stripers and will be thick in a few weeks. PS: Thanks for bringing those Stripers and Shad over here to the west coast in 1877. Bill Kiene Kiene’s Fly Shop Sacramento, California, USA www.kiene.com

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Fishing out of Fletchers Sunday and Monday: lots of BIG hickory shad, caught on the outgoing tide-using Teeny 250 or 300 lines, 6′ hunk of 12lb test Maxima for a leader ( God bless Maxima but I hate those fucking archaic spools theyl put the stuff on ) casting slightly upstream and usually getting a hit on the start of the swing. Flies on the small side-size 6 to 8 clousers with short tails-white with gold flash and chartruese with gold flash . I was getting alot of misses till I chopped off the tails to within about 3/8" of the hook bend , after that it was Heaven.Last cast of the day Monday I hooked an American shad, about 3 or 4 times the size and heft of the hickories. Last couple years the Americans were running about as big as that species can get, up to 30"s. This one took me into my backing about 50-75′. It took a long damn time to wind all that line in after it threw the hook that’s for sure. The Americans should be starting to come on strong now, the water’s warming up and clearing. They like the stretch of water just up from Fletchers dock area, on a rising tide and then right up till slack tide. They come there to spawn. Most of the hickory action’s been on the falling tides. The female stripers are running up to 40lbs. and the cut herring/bottom fishing guys have been hauling in a bunch. I keep trying for them but all I do is lose expensive flies in the rocks. Would it be that terrible to soak a fly or two in a bucket of herring chum and then run my leader through a slip sinker and just sorta drop it over the side of the boat while I eat lunch or something ? I’ll have to sleep on that. Anyway the male stripers are expected by the end of the week and they’ll be possible to catch using ethical methods The river should be low enough for safe wading by the end of the week too if the levels keep dropping at a steady clip. Oh yeah, when my Rick and I got to the dock on Sunday afternoon " Dock Lady " ( you have to meet her in person, words can’t really adequetly describe her ) told us everyone coming off the river was pissed at us because we two flyrodders were taking shad right and left all day and they, the spinning guys were only hitting them off and on and "they said you two bastards must be doing something illegal ". Even allowing for "Dock Ladys" habit of slight exageration it still was good to hear. It’s usually the other way around. cheers, Bob nursing a painfully pleasant case of "shad elbow"

Response:

Question:

How about taking this to an email status, guys. I have a 3 month old yellow Lab in the vet hospital with Parvo. The vet thinks he can get her through it, but she is sick as hell. Amazing how quickly you can get attached to a dumb old dog… — Michael Collier Citizen Fisherman

– http://members.home.net/jbarton248

Response:

I’m very sorry to hear that, but I’m afraid it’s due to your own carelessness. Never, ever let your pup around other dogs, or in places where other dogs roam, until it’s had its full set of parvo shots. These are typically given every three to four weeks until the dog is four months old. The dog is NOT immune until it’s had all the shots. A parvo booster shot is given once a year. It’s important to socialize a pup to people and other dogs, but they should only be allowed around other dogs that you KNOW are healthy and immune to the parvo virus.

Ah nothing like a little dose of salt for a wound.  Sorry RW, I know you could care less but I think this was a low blow and rather presumptuous of you.  I don’t know the circumstances surrounding Mr. Colliers pup…given that, I certainly wouldn’t affix blame.  Even if I did know, I don’t see the point in the blame game anyway…I’m sure he’ll learn all he needs to about Parvo by the time this is all done. Michael F. Pitch (Natty)

Response:

Yeesh. And I  thought that the South African where a heartless bunch! Yowza! I have a 3 month old yellow Lab in the vet hospital with Parvo. The vet thinks he can get her through it, but she is sick as hell. Amazing how quickly you can get attached to a dumb old dog… — Michael Collier Citizen Fisherman

Ari Bert                                        Gaelle Bert +27 (0) 83 232 9903                             +27 (0) 83 236 5308 Flyfishing Corner +27 (0) 11 447 7230                             Shop 94, Admirals Court +27 (0) 11 882 8537 (fax)                       Cnr Craddock & Tyrwhitt www.troutfishing.co.za                                Street, Rosebank P.O.Box 79067 Senderwood 2145 South Africa

Response:

You first, clueless newbie! Op

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – How about taking this to an email status, guys. — http://members.home.net/jbarton248

Response:

Yeesh. And I  thought that the South African where a heartless bunch! Yowza!

Nah, we got you beat all over for incivility, bud. We don’t have a T&R commission trying to keep us straight, either.

Response:

I have a 3 month old yellow Lab in the vet hospital with Parvo. The vet thinks he can get her through it, but she is sick as hell. Amazing how quickly you can get attached to a dumb old dog… — Michael Collier Citizen Fisherman

Mike, Got a pup myself. Wouldn’t trade him for a million. However, I wouldn’t give you $.10 for another. Seriously, hope your pet gets well. Ken Williams

Response:

Bovine Excrement on your part rw!  Friend’s dog got parvo at the vets when he went in for the parvo shots.  Manure happens. Bill – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Parvo is like a roulette wheel, and our number came up. Bullshit. Your dog was exposed to parvo when it was in your care, then you have the cheek to come here looking for sympathy. I never got on your case during the sorry eBay debacle, but it’s now very clear that you have a problem in taking responsibility for your actions, or inactions. BTW, if you get the opportunity to counsel people with sick kids, pass… If they’re parents who exposed their kids to a deadly, contagious, and preventable disease through negligence, I’ll pass. And please, whatever else you do, if your dog dies don’t get another one. — visit my web site: http://home.earthlink.net/~royalwulff/

Response:

Calif Bill writes: Bovine Excrement on your part rw!  Friend’s dog got parvo at the vets when he went in for the parvo shots.  Manure happens. Bill

No doubt about it.  The best place to catch it is *at* the vet’s.  If you bring an unprotected puppy to the vet’s office, you should bring a large towel for the dog to sit/lie on.  While a good vet will spray and clean the surfaces exposed to dogs/puppies, there is still the chance that the virus will survive.  So, beat it by not allowing the puppy on *any* of the surfaces at the vet’s office until the pup is fully vaccinated.  It is the only sure way to protect your dog.  Although rw was a little blunt in his approach of placing blame, it is the human’s fault that the animal gets infected.  Keep the pup away from possible infected surfaces. I leave for Idaho in a few hours.  Unfortunately, Henry can’t go with me…d;0( Dave

Response:

Not your falt.  Parvo shots don’t always prevent your dog from getting it but it may lessen the effect enough that he’ll live.  Parvo can stay in the ground where an infected dog has dumped for a year or more, so chances are you never nknew where he came up with it. Bill Pentheny Adams (PA) County Bassmasters Cheasapeake Bay Retriever Relief & Rescue

Response:

True,,, Although the good old T&R aren’t all that straight themselves. ‘Bout as straight as a caddis hook I reckon. Ari Yeesh. And I  thought that the South African where a heartless bunch! Yowza! Nah, we got you beat all over for incivility, bud. We don’t have a T&R commission trying to keep us straight, either.

Ari Bert                                        Gaelle Bert +27 (0) 83 232 9903                             +27 (0) 83 236 5308 Flyfishing Corner +27 (0) 11 447 7230                             Shop 94, Admirals Court +27 (0) 11 882 8537 (fax)                       Cnr Craddock & Tyrwhitt www.troutfishing.co.za                                Street, Rosebank P.O.Box 79067 Senderwood 2145 South Africa

Response:

…so it is fitting that the dog should die to punish his master’s mistakes. Hmm. Interesting viewpoint.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Bullshit. Your dog was exposed to parvo when it was in your care, then you have the cheek to come here looking for sympathy. I never got on your case during the sorry eBay debacle, but it’s now very clear that you have a problem in taking responsibility for your actions, or inactions. And please, whatever else you do, if your dog dies don’t get another one.

Response:

Bullshit. Your dog was exposed to parvo when

it was in your care….<   Let me tell you a story, rw…and please, comment on it.  I raised a litter of pointers a few years ago.   They were whelped in my garage.  Never around any dogs except their mother.  I started giving them shots at 5 weeks (when I weaned them).   I gave them a shot at 5 weeks, a shot at 6, one at 8, one at 10 and one at 14.  5 shots in all.  I kept 4 of these puppies.  They were in a new pen that had never had other dogs in it.  At 17/18 weeks, two of them developed parvo and subsequently died.  The other two (in the same pen) lived and showed no signs of sickness.   I see no reason why 2 puppies out of 4, raised under identical conditions would develop parvo and 2 would not.  Obviously, they were "exposed" to parvo but I can’t for the life of me figure how unless I carried it in on my boots from a field trial.  BUT, I had given them *5* shots and only 2 of the 4 died.  Shit happens.

Response:

Dog’s fine and is coming home this afternoon. Thanks for all the kind words. — Michael Collier Citizen Fisherman

Response:

I have a 3 month old yellow Lab in the vet hospital with Parvo. The vet thinks he can get her through it, but she is sick as hell. Amazing how quickly you can get attached to a dumb old dog…

I’m very sorry to hear that, but I’m afraid it’s due to your own carelessness. Never, ever let your pup around other dogs, or in places where other dogs roam, until it’s had its full set of parvo shots. These are typically given every three to four weeks until the dog is four months old. The dog is NOT immune until it’s had all the shots. A parvo booster shot is given once a year. It’s important to socialize a pup to people and other dogs, but they should only be allowed around other dogs that you KNOW are healthy and immune to the parvo virus. — visit my web site: http://home.earthlink.net/~royalwulff/

Response:

I wish you a lot of good luck with your puppy.  Your right about how quick you get to loving a pup.  I hope this works out well for you and your pup. PS:  Wish it was my ex who got the Parvo instead Richard

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I have a 3 month old yellow Lab in the vet hospital with Parvo. The vet thinks he can get her through it, but she is sick as hell. Amazing how quickly you can get attached to a dumb old dog… — Michael Collier Citizen Fisherman

Response:

Don’t know about the divorce part, but one of the hardest things I’ve had to do was put down my Aussie. Tim

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Thanks. Michael Collier <- lump in throat, feeling kinda silly Citizen Fisherman Don’t sweat it. One of the worst times I ever had was when I had to put my last dog down. Hell of a lot worse than divorcing my old lady. —  Charles Davis     K4SWB <<I’m The NRA

Response:

rw writes: Never, ever let your pup around other dogs, or in places where other dogs roam, until it’s had its full set of parvo shots. These are typically given every three to four weeks until the dog is four months old. The dog is NOT immune until it’s had all the shots. A parvo booster shot is given once a year.

When we got Henry two and half years ago at age 8 weeks, we took him to the vet for a check up, but we brought a towel for him to sit/stand on.  Never let an unvacinated pup around the floor or tables of any vet. It’s important to socialize a pup to people and other dogs, but they should only be allowed around other dogs that you KNOW are healthy and immune to the parvo virus.

If you do socialize around others pubs (puppy kindergarden, obedience school, etc., ensure that one of the requirements is up-to-date parvo shots.   I’ll be out your way on Sunday, Steve.  Taking grandson #2 fishing somewhere east of Cascade — we fly in from Boise.   Dave

Response:

Did you know the Parvo virus can survive in dog feces for up to a year? Did you know some dogs only carry the virus? Did you know puppies are born with their mother’s immunity to Parvo, and there is only the briefest window from the time the in-born immunity fails and the puppies own kicks in? We were not at all careless with this dog. Parvo is like a roulette wheel, and our number came up. BTW, if you get the opportunity to counsel people with sick kids, pass… — Michael Collier Citizen Fisherman – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I’m very sorry to hear that, but I’m afraid it’s due to your own carelessness.

Response:

Thank you! – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – BTW, if you get the opportunity to counsel people with sick kids, pass… — Michael Collier Citizen Fisherman I’m very sorry to hear that, but I’m afraid it’s due to your own carelessness.

Response:

It’s important to socialize a pup to people and other dogs, but they should only be allowed around other dogs that you KNOW are healthy and immune to the parvo virus.

My neighbor’s pup was in a fenced backyard when he was visited by a sick loose dog (that dog later died — his owners *were* careless).  The pup got sick very quickly and my neighbors took him to the vet right away.  With lots of care, he did recover beautifully.  My dogs were older (and had their regular booster shots) and they weren’t affected, luckily. Hang in there, Michael.  Thinking good thoughts your way. Sandy

Response:

Parvo is like a roulette wheel, and our number came up.

Bullshit. Your dog was exposed to parvo when it was in your care, then you have the cheek to come here looking for sympathy. I never got on your case during the sorry eBay debacle, but it’s now very clear that you have a problem in taking responsibility for your actions, or inactions. BTW, if you get the opportunity to counsel people with sick kids, pass…

If they’re parents who exposed their kids to a deadly, contagious, and preventable disease through negligence, I’ll pass. And please, whatever else you do, if your dog dies don’t get another one. — visit my web site: http://home.earthlink.net/~royalwulff/

Response:

I have a 3 month old yellow Lab in the vet hospital with Parvo. The vet thinks he can get her through it, but she is sick as hell. Amazing how quickly you can get attached to a dumb old dog… — Michael Collier Citizen Fisherman

Response:

Michael I am very sorry to hear this, we lost a puppy to Parvo and we DO understand how you must be feeling.  Hang in there, there is hope, your puppy is a little older than ours was and the vet told us the older the better… Padishar Creel –  My best friend has always been a dog.

Response:

Thanks. — Michael Collier <- lump in throat, feeling kinda silly Citizen Fisherman – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Michael I am very sorry to hear this, we lost a puppy to Parvo and we DO understand how you must be feeling.  Hang in there, there is hope, your puppy is a little older than ours was and the vet told us the older the better…

Response:

Thanks. Michael Collier <- lump in throat, feeling kinda silly Citizen Fisherman

Don’t sweat it. One of the worst times I ever had was when I had to put my last dog down. Hell of a lot worse than divorcing my old lady. —  Charles Davis     K4SWB <<I’m The NRA

Response:

Question:

Zimbo I always have a keychain size compass. Im not the type to rely on a GPS in any case. I want my survival gear to be fail-safe reliable and small/lite enough so that its always there. Fact is that the only time Ive been lost in the woods was on my home island – within 3 miles of my house! (The second growth can be pretty dense sometimes under a double canopy, with the first canopy over your head, you can loose your bearing.) The keyring compass is also handy doing dead reckoning in metro areas. My .02 Dave

Response:

I was wondering if any of you backwoods fly fishermen use a GPS for hiking in and out of places. I’m not immediately in the market, but a handheld GPS is one of those "someday" toys on my list along with binoculars and a waterproof digital camera. So, is a GPS helpful (to keep from getting lost, mark a good fishing hole, find or relocate the trail, etc)? What models do you recommend (how about the Garmin GPS III Plus for example)? What about mapping software? etc. –Steve

Response:

 In my opinion.  If you have to rely on electronic "gadgets" to save your worthless behind in the bush you need to stay home.A better 300 bucks would be spent in a map reading class with a field trip for a test.Never substitute knowledge with gadgetry. —  Don Thompson Another of the Thompson Boys

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I was wondering if any of you backwoods fly fishermen use a GPS for hiking in and out of places. I’m not immediately in the market, but a handheld GPS is one of those "someday" toys on my list along with binoculars and a waterproof digital camera. So, is a GPS helpful (to keep from getting lost, mark a good fishing hole, find or relocate the trail, etc)? What models do you recommend (how about the Garmin GPS III Plus for example)? What about mapping software? etc. –Steve

Response:

I was wondering if any of you backwoods fly fishermen use a GPS for hiking in and out of places.

I have a GPS III+ and use it when kayaking, and an occasional hike. I have the Garmin US topo software and it has proven to be pretty reliable, at least away from metro areas where constant terraforming is underway. I also have the Roads and Recreation CD that I use on occasion when driving. — Charlie…

Response:

I have a XL12 I use to get myself back on top of the best crabbing spots. Other than that it’s a toy for entertainment. It’s great for cross country navigation but I would hate to depend on it as my primary methos for getting home!

Response:

So, is a GPS helpful (to keep from getting lost, mark a good fishing hole, find or relocate the trail, etc)? What models do you recommend (how about the Garmin GPS III Plus for example)? What about mapping software? etc.

They’re great little toys (mine is anyway).   I know the exact coordinates of my house & office; I’ve checked it against my car speedometer, I even programmed in the coordinates of Foscoe, NC just for fun before my trip to the Spring Fling. That said, I have used it on occasion as a genuine navigational tool.   Each time in Maine (it’s really the only place I go with a decent chance of getting lost). I’ve saved a few waypoints to mark the turns on those logging roads, and once to mark some nasty rock outcroppings (or the route in between) on Moosehead Lake.   For a mere C-note, it’s a fun toy; but I haven’t gone the mapping software route yet. Joe F.

Response:

 Nah,  I dead recon, Go shanks Mare,Drink from vines,Wipe my behind with corncobs. grin —  Don Thompson Another of the Thompson Boys

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – well shoot don…. why doncha tell us how you really feel? do you use a compass? drive a car? canteen? toilet paper? it’s all gadgetry… –waldo

Response:

: I was wondering if any of you backwoods fly fishermen use a GPS for hiking : in and out of places. Away from work I’m a neo-luddite and try to avoid technology. But I agree with others in that I would not get a GPS in order to use it as your primary location finder. A compass and map should do that. Lately I’ve been using standard BLM maps (1:100K?) which aren’t the best but are cheap and have not gotten me lost…

the problem with gps’s when are that they do not give good readings on headings unless one is moving.  they are great for finding the exact spot you are standing on… but i would not be caught dead without a compass and only using a gps to get me out of trouble in the woods.  you really do need a compass in conjunction with a gps for the woods. chris

Response:

New Hardy  or a GPS? I took the Bougle. If I pick up a boat this summer to fish for stripers I’ll get one but otherwise I don’t a GPS. Paul P.S. See the hat.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Paul Goodwin writes: I’ve thought about getting one for a few years but can’t seem to justify it. Interpretation:  "My wife won’t let me buy one."    <g Dave LaCourse Pirate and Bottom Dweller

Response:

it’s all gadgetry… Toilet paper has saved my ass many times…

POTW! /daytripper (And it’s only Monday!)

Response:

Steve, I am a forester.  I make my living in the woods.  My dad a year ago thought a GPS would be a great gift for Christmas for me.  You’d think it would be, but I never use the thing.  I am comfortable enough with a map and compass to do what I need to do.  I imagine if i was a boater, trolling in a big place like Lake Ontario, I could use the thing, but in its box it stays. Peter Collin

Response:

it’s all gadgetry…

Toilet paper has saved my ass many times… — Charlie…

Response:

Paul Goodwin writes: I’ve thought about getting one for a few years but can’t seem to justify it.

Interpretation:  "My wife won’t let me buy one."    <g Dave LaCourse Pirate and Bottom Dweller

Response:

Paul Goodwin writes: I’ve thought about getting one for a few years but can’t seem to justify it. Interpretation:  "My wife won’t let me buy one."    <g

Mine won’t let me out the door without mine.      - Ken

Response:

Paul Goodwin writes: I’ve thought about getting one for a few years but can’t seem to justify it. Interpretation:  "My wife won’t let me buy one."    <g Mine won’t let me out the door without mine.      - Ken

lmao…. mine won’t *let* me have one <g waldo

Response:

Steve, Take a look at the new eMap from Garmin.  Much smaller than the GPS III+ and is a perfect fit in the fishing vest.  As others have pointed out you can use it to save positions of favorite holes, locations, etc.  It should never be depended upon as your ultimate means of navigation. You can upload/download waypoints from other fisherman on new spots, parking locations, a whole plethora of fishing information.   For software, take a look at OziExplorer.  www.ozieplorer.com, Fugawi, www.fugawi.com or you can use the MapSource CD’s from Garmin. Good luck, Paul www.troutmaps.com – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I was wondering if any of you backwoods fly fishermen use a GPS for hiking in and out of places. I’m not immediately in the market, but a handheld GPS is one of those "someday" toys on my list along with binoculars and a waterproof digital camera. So, is a GPS helpful (to keep from getting lost, mark a good fishing hole, find or relocate the trail, etc)? What models do you recommend (how about the Garmin GPS III Plus for example)? What about mapping software? etc. –Steve

Response:

 In my opinion.  If you have to rely on electronic "gadgets" to save your worthless behind in the bush you need to stay home.A better 300 bucks would be spent in a map reading class with a field trip for a test.Never substitute knowledge with gadgetry. —  Don Thompson

well shoot don…. why doncha tell us how you really feel? do you use a compass? drive a car? canteen? toilet paper? it’s all gadgetry… –waldo

Response:

 If you have to rely on electronic "gadgets" to save your worthless behind in the bush you need to stay home.A better 300 bucks would be spent in a map reading class with a field trip for a test.Never substitute knowledge with gadgetry. do you use a compass? drive a car? canteen? toilet paper?

Gosh, perhaps in retrospect I was a bit too fast on the trigger when I killfiled Donny boy a few days ago when I was weeding out cross-posters. My apologies. And, BTW, Don, if you have to rely on prescription "gadgets" to save your worthless sex life you need to get out more. –Steve

Response:

I’ve thought about getting one for a few years but can’t seem to justify it. The one time I wish I had one I was in a friends boat on the Merrimack River. In a matter of minutes we went from clear shies to <50′ visibility. Since we knew where we were, had a chart and a compass we were able to get back across. We then anchored within site of the ramp and watched the CG escort boats in for the next couple hours. Paul

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I was wondering if any of you backwoods fly fishermen use a GPS for hiking in and out of places. I’m not immediately in the market, but a handheld GPS is one of those "someday" toys on my list along with binoculars and a waterproof digital camera. So, is a GPS helpful (to keep from getting lost, mark a good fishing hole, find or relocate the trail, etc)? What models do you recommend (how about the Garmin GPS III Plus for example)? What about mapping software? etc. –Steve

Response:

You obviously need a tattoo ! TL MC — "Where fishing is concerned, most anglers are basically manic excessives" http://www.mikeconnor.de I was wondering if any of you backwoods fly fishermen use a GPS for hiking

in

Response:

I was wondering if any of you backwoods fly fishermen use a GPS for hiking in and out of places.

Absolutely. First off, don’t use a GPS as a replacement for basic map and compass skills, and always try to improve upon your own intuitive navigation skills. That said, I have a collection of digitized USGS maps and DeLorme maps and will often download important waypoints into my GPS before heading out, and I certainly take GPS readings at points of discovery in the field so I can later upload them and see exactly where I was. In Oregon, I generally use a GPS to find shorter routes into/outof an area. With so many trees and hills, it is easy to get "turned around" and stray. On a trip with my wife in Alaska, we pre-marked where all the creeks within a 5 mile radius of our houseboat in Prince William Sound (Port Gravina) were, and when we buzzed around in a 15-hp motorboat, we were constantly amazed at how we could *not* "see" or intuit where a creek was flowing into the bay, but the GPS led us to each creek mouth and thousands of salmon without fail. I also use a GPS during spawning/habitat surveys with the State and Federal agencies.  It is also becoming very handy to be able to report things to the state/federal agencies when accompanied by a lat/long. I own the Garmin 12XL, and recommend Garmin simply because you can hold and operate them with one hand because the buttons are up top. Buy a simple cable and some mapping software, and you’re set. Thomas Gilg

Response:

I was wondering if any of you backwoods fly fishermen use a GPS for hiking in and out of places. I’m not immediately in the market, but a handheld GPS is one of those "someday" toys on my list along with binoculars and a waterproof digital camera. So, is a GPS helpful (to keep from getting lost, mark a good fishing hole, find or relocate the trail, etc)? What models do you recommend (how about the Garmin GPS III Plus for example)? What about mapping software? etc.

Yes, I have a GPS and use it regularly.  Magellan 315 if I remember correctly. They are not toys and can be invaluable if used properly.  Properly being IN ADDITION to a map and compass. A GPS is NOT a substitute for map skills. I have no real advice on mapping software, I just use any standard topographic maps with lat/long  markings on them. I almost always have my GPS on me when hiking (especially when alone).  Get to the trailhead and mark a waypoint.  Get to any remotely confusing section and set another waypoint.  With a good map and reasonable skills, it’s "nearly" impossible to get lost.   One thing to keep in mind is that in thick forests you can lose contact with all satellites and your GPS becomes useless.  You have to find a clearing to get a reading. I also find a GPS useful when driving off-road.  I spend a lot of time looking for old fire lookout stations when all you have is the coordinates on an old map.  Finding the lookouts is tricky, but navigating your way back out is tough too.  My GPS has saved me hours of driving around lost in the woods. My $0.02, take it for what it’s worth,      - Ken

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I have been with Tom Brown when he has used his GPS III+ to see where we were on Little Wilsons or to determine the elevation of a point.  I’d like to have one simply because it provides an interesting reference.  I like it…and, I think it could help locate points or distances.  I say git you one…and let’s try it out over the other side of Fontana on Eagle Creek or Enkaneetlah one weekend. …btw…package just arrived.  whew, i was beginning to worry.  i’m planning on using it this friday with op and walt on one of my favorite backwoods streams… jeff – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I was wondering if any of you backwoods fly fishermen use a GPS for hiking in and out of places. I’m not immediately in the market, but a handheld GPS is one of those "someday" toys on my list along with binoculars and a waterproof digital camera. So, is a GPS helpful (to keep from getting lost, mark a good fishing hole, find or relocate the trail, etc)? What models do you recommend (how about the Garmin GPS III Plus for example)? What about mapping software? etc. –Steve

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I was wondering if any of you backwoods fly fishermen use a GPS for hiking in and out of places.

No, I prefer not to use them – see below. I’m not immediately in the market, but a handheld GPS is one of those "someday" toys on my list along with binoculars and a waterproof digital camera.

IMO, "toy" is the right word for most folks, and here’s why – if you are simply using it to track yourself, etc., fine, or as an "I’m curious" reference when the "lost" potential is either very low or the consequences of getting "lost" are minimal, sure, get one and "play." But if you are going into areas/situations where the potential for being truly _lost_ is high, with the associated perils, IMO, these should only be used as a additional aid, not a substitute for manual procedures with compass (manual instruments), maps, _two_ sources of time, and reference points.  The batteries can go, the unit can go down or be damaged, you could conceivably be out of "triangulation" reception (yes, I realize some use other than 3, and this is _unlikely_), etc.  If you going into such a situation, IMO, one _must_ know manual methods.  The main use I have had for them is bluewater sailing/boating, but again, only as a ready/"quick" reference, rather than the sole nav method. So, is a GPS helpful (to keep from getting lost, mark a good fishing hole, find or relocate the trail, etc)? What models do you recommend (how about the Garmin GPS III Plus for example)? What about mapping software? etc.

Helpful?  Sure, if you want to know _exactly_ where you are (well, within a few meters).  As to keeping from "getting lost," that depends on one’s propensity to "get lost" – i.e., if one can "get lost" in a city park, it would probably help, but if one can readily get in and out within a few miles, then it becomes the above-mentioned "quick ref."  IMO, with GPS, you buy features – the "system" used is the same, and you have no choice, ala "wireless" phones, ISPs, etc.  If you buy used, make sure it was a Y2K-prepared unit – some weren’t.  I personally prefer USGS Topos, etc. for maps, but that is strictly subjective.  IMO, learning to "read" the terrain is a necessary and interesting part of being outdoors, but again, YMMV. TC, R – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text —Steve

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Question:

Hi All, A friend has asked me to build what is know as an AuSable river boat.  It is a flat bottom skiff type boat commonly used for fly fishing on the AuSable river here in Michigan.  It may be similar to an adirondack guide boat. If anyone can point me to resources that may help me sort this out such as websites, pics etc.  I would greatly appreciate it. Thanks, Craig "Strange women lying in ponds distributing swords is no basis for a system of government"

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OK Craig – you asked for it!!! are as goodat helping out as the people here (I know, some days I’m incredulous too ). Wait a minute! about anything boat related, like maybe skiff AND plans (or something). There are a gazillion books of plans — maybe not the AuSable river boat, but certainly something very much like it, and probably using modern construction techniques and materials.   For starters:  Build the New Instant Boats — Dynamite Payson                  American Small Sailing Craft — Howard Chapelle                  Forty Wooden Boats (also 30 and 50 wooden boats)                          by WoodenBoat Magazine http://www.woodenboat.com                  ANTYHING by WoodenBoat                  ANYTHING by Phil Bolger (Boats with an Open Mind is fun reading) Check out http://www.amazon.com for more books. No doubt someone else will jump in with really good advice, and I’ll bow to his/her superior knowledge. BTW – remember that boat building  (and all woodworking) is supposed to be fun.  For boats in particular, you can generally buy a ready-made boat cheaper than you can build one, so, if you do not WANT to build, and I mean really want to build, tell your friend to find something used and buy it. Have fun, and good luck with your search Rob (building a Sinepuxent skiff from Smithsonian plans) Weaver – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Hi All, A friend has asked me to build what is know as an AuSable river boat.  It is a flat bottom skiff type boat commonly used for fly fishing on the AuSable river here in Michigan.  It may be similar to an adirondack guide boat. If anyone can point me to resources that may help me sort this out such as websites, pics etc.  I would greatly appreciate it. Thanks, Craig "Strange women lying in ponds distributing swords is no basis for a system of government"

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Question:

Hi, I missed the original post, but if it’s tailing loops, Dan is right on – the timings the thing. I would just add that you might also check that ou are indeed throwing the line "up and over". I find that many problems originate when a caster is just whipping the rod, rather than concentrating on putting the fly line up and over the shoulder, this ensures a straight take away, and does a lot to prevent side loops, which most people confuse with tailing loops. Just a thought…. Bill – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Dan, I have to say that your recent series of posts has been one of the most helpful things I have ever seen in this newsgroup. I’m sure a lot of us have learned from it, even those of us who have been fishing for a while (I can still tail the odd loop just fine after twenty years with a fly rod). We might even have to stop bitching about Orivs for a while… (-: Andrew Andrew N. Herd Associate Editor, Waterlog Magazine http://www.demon.co.uk/medlarpress/ writes: If the timing is bad, the line drops well below the plane on the forward cast before you bring it forward and it can hit the line.  Practicing your casting at times other than just when you’re fishing can go a long way to develop the sense of timing needed to correct this.  A practical exercise to allow you to see the cast without swiveling your shoulders (swiveling shoulders causes you to throw hooks in your cast) is to either use a side-arm cast, or angle your body at about 60 degrees to the target so you can move your head to watch the back cast extend without moving your shoulders. Snip                        Hope this helps,                                Dan Dan Gracia Orvis West Coast Fly Fishing Schools

– Bill Curry Tight Lines Guide Service Lockeport, Nova Scotia, Canada http://www.tightlines.ns.ca

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This is one of the best explanations/techniques I have heard for identifying this problem!!!  A couple years ago I was throwing tailing loop after tailing loop.  Since it was the end of the day and I had gotten up at 4:00am I just figured I was tired and decided to call it a day.  Just then (of course) a big brown noisily slurped a hopper and I decided on "just a couple more casts". I promptly threw a tailing loop AND tangled in an overhanging branch.  I snapped off the leader.  When preparing to tie on a new one I noticed a crack in the flyline about 2 or 3" up from the leader.  I trimmed the line, tied on a new leader and proceeded to make several casts that were better than most I had thrown all afternoon.  Now I have a technique for identifying the problem rather than lucking out.  Thanks! – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – writes: If anyone can help me I could really use some advice (and I really don’t want to hear anything about my socks not matching my shoes).  I consider myself an intermediate fly caster, but I occassionally will get a closing loop where the leader will actually wrap itself around the loop.  I read in a book that it can be caused by accelerating into the foreward cast too soon and not smoothly accelerating. Does anyone else have some advice? All opinions are appreciated. Hi Dana, Before you start worrying about your casting technique, take a quick look at the junction of the leader to the fly line.  If it is cracked so that it hinges instead of transferring energy smoothly, no amount of casting modification will make it work. Perfectly executed casts with this mechanical problem will throw tailing loops. If you’re not sure whether or not the junction causes a hinge, here’s a simple test: 1.  Hold the fly line in one hand and the leader in the other with the junction in the middle and about 6" of material on each side of it. 2.  Push your hands together until they are about 6" apart.  This should form an upside down "U"  in the line. 3.  Raise one hand while lowering the other.  This will roll the junction over the upside down "U" in the line. 4.  If it rolls over smoothly then your casting technique is the problem. If one side collapses instead of rolling over, then you have a mechanical "hinging" problem.  If you use too fine of a diameter monofilament for the butt section of your leader, that will cause hinging on the leader side – If you use too heavy of a diameter mono for the butt section it will cause the fly line to collapse.  Any crack that is serious enough to cause casting problems becomes immediately apparent with this test.  In any case the answer is to cut off the old junction and replace it with one of the right size.  You will often have to cut off a few inches of the fly line if it’s badly cracked. I’ll address some casting options in another post.                            Hope this helps,                                      Dan Dan Gracia Orvis West Coast Fly Fishing Schools

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Dan, I have to say that your recent series of posts has been one of the most helpful things I have ever seen in this newsgroup. I’m sure a lot of us have learned from it, even those of us who have been fishing for a while (I can still tail the odd loop just fine after twenty years with a fly rod). We might even have to stop bitching about Orivs for a while… (-: Andrew Andrew N. Herd Associate Editor, Waterlog Magazine http://www.demon.co.uk/medlarpress/ – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – writes: If the timing is bad, the line drops well below the plane on the forward cast before you bring it forward and it can hit the line.  Practicing your casting at times other than just when you’re fishing can go a long way to develop the sense of timing needed to correct this.  A practical exercise to allow you to see the cast without swiveling your shoulders (swiveling shoulders causes you to throw hooks in your cast) is to either use a side-arm cast, or angle your body at about 60 degrees to the target so you can move your head to watch the back cast extend without moving your shoulders.

Snip – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text –                        Hope this helps,                                Dan Dan Gracia Orvis West Coast Fly Fishing Schools

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Hi Dana, It sounds like the old trailing loop syndrome.  We all start off with it as a throw back to the spinning rod. Your book is correct. I’ve taught many people how to cast and they all go through this problem.  Most seem to correct the problem once they’ve heard the problem explained in a way that makes sense to them. So I’ll explain it in a different way. Hold your rod out directly straight from you and push down. Notice the Tip of the rod goes up before it goes down with the rest of the rod. When you start a cast the same thing happens. If you apply too much power too soon the rod tip goes down before it goes forward. The line simply follows along going down before it comes up. Sometimes catching itself on the way back up. Any power applied before the tip of the rod reaches the 12:00 position will cause the rod tip to go down before forward. Therefore the majority of power must be applied after the tip of the rod has past the butt. Good Luck — William Endicott – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – If anyone can help me I could really use some advice (and I really don’t want to hear anything about my socks not matching my shoes).  I consider myself an intermediate fly caster, but I occassionally will get a closing loop where the leader will actually wrap itself around the loop.  I read in a book that it can be caused by accelerating into the foreward cast too soon and not smoothly accelerating. Does anyone else have some advice? All opinions are appreciated. Thanks, Dana

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Something that improved my casting was to convince myself there was no difference between the back and forward cast.  I started false casting 30′ of line and slowly rotated while keeping the line going in the same direction until I was facing what was my back cast.  When I could rotate 360 degrees under the cast and keep it going smoothly with tight loops and not shock the line or have tailing loops, my attitude toward the mechanics of casting changed and my casting improved. — Ernie Harrison Remove NOSPAM to send E-mail – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – If anyone can help me I could really use some advice (and I really don’t want to hear anything about my socks not matching my shoes).  I consider myself an intermediate fly caster, but I occassionally will get a closing loop where the leader will actually wrap itself around the loop.  I read in a book that it can be caused by accelerating into the foreward cast too soon and not smoothly accelerating. Does anyone else have some advice? All opinions are appreciated. Thanks, Dana

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writes: If anyone can help me I could really use some advice (and I really don’t want to hear anything about my socks not matching my shoes).  I consider myself an intermediate fly caster, but I occassionally will get a closing loop where the leader will actually wrap itself around the loop.  I read in a book that it can be caused by accelerating into the foreward cast too soon and not smoothly accelerating. Does anyone else have some advice? All opinions are appreciated.

Hi Dana, Before you start worrying about your casting technique, take a quick look at the junction of the leader to the fly line.  If it is cracked so that it hinges instead of transferring energy smoothly, no amount of casting modification will make it work. Perfectly executed casts with this mechanical problem will throw tailing loops. If you’re not sure whether or not the junction causes a hinge, here’s a simple test: 1.  Hold the fly line in one hand and the leader in the other with the junction in the middle and about 6" of material on each side of it. 2.  Push your hands together until they are about 6" apart.  This should form an upside down "U"  in the line. 3.  Raise one hand while lowering the other.  This will roll the junction over the upside down "U" in the line. 4.  If it rolls over smoothly then your casting technique is the problem.  If one side collapses instead of rolling over, then you have a mechanical "hinging" problem.  If you use too fine of a diameter monofilament for the butt section of your leader, that will cause hinging on the leader side – If you use too heavy of a diameter mono for the butt section it will cause the fly line to collapse.  Any crack that is serious enough to cause casting problems becomes immediately apparent with this test.  In any case the answer is to cut off the old junction and replace it with one of the right size.  You will often have to cut off a few inches of the fly line if it’s badly cracked. I’ll address some casting options in another post.                             Hope this helps,                                       Dan Dan Gracia Orvis West Coast Fly Fishing Schools

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writes: If anyone can help me I could really use some advice (and I really don’t want to hear anything about my socks not matching my shoes).  I consider myself an intermediate fly caster, but I occassionally will get a closing loop where the leader will actually wrap itself around the loop.  I read in a book that it can be caused by accelerating into the foreward cast too soon and not smoothly accelerating. Does anyone else have some advice? All opinions are appreciated.

Besides the mechanical problems addressed in another post, your casting technique can certainly cause this problem. The two most common causes are bad timing, and the afore-mentioned jerky accelleration.  If the timing is bad, the line drops well below the plane on the forward cast before you bring it forward and it can hit the line.  Practicing your casting at times other than just when you’re fishing can go a long way to develop the sense of timing needed to correct this.  A practical exercise to allow you to see the cast without swiveling your shoulders (swiveling shoulders causes you to throw hooks in your cast) is to either use a side-arm cast, or angle your body at about 60 degrees to the target so you can move your head to watch the back cast extend without moving your shoulders.   For the side-arm cast, lay the rod out directly in front of you with the reel pointed in the direction of the target (not pointed down at the ground *very important*).  Use a slicing motion, not a scooping motion to make the cast while keeping your shoulders perfectly still.  You can watch the loop travel in both directions and you can easily see the width of the casting arc you’re using.  By changing the width of this casting arc you can widen or tighten your loops.  *Dont wait for the line to straighten out entirely* before you start your forward cast.  It takes a split second reaction time to initiate the forward cast and if you wait until it straightens out entirely it will fall considerably and bleed off energy before you actually start your forward cast. Reaction time is different for everyone and you have to find out just when is right by trial and error.  For starters pick a spot a foot or two back from the end of the fly line, and when the unrolling loop reaches that point, start your forward cast.  Adjust this distance farther back from the end of the fly line or closer to it as needed.  When you hit it "spot on" the fly will just sort of stop for a split second in mid-air.  That’s perfect.  The good news is that it doesn’t have to be perfect, but the closer you can get to it the more efficient your casting will be. Bad accelleration is a more common problem with tailing loops and it becomes particularly noticeable when making longer casts or when casting in windy conditions.  The tendency is to put a lot more force into the rod and that usually results in jerking it forward.  This sudden jerk causes the rod to load (flex) suddenly and then unload (straighten) slightly because less energy is used to finish the stroke than start it.  This causes the rod tip to travel in a concave or U shape and will always throw a tailing loop.   Extra power can be added to a casting stroke, but it must be at the very end – "Accellerate to a Stop".  If this is the problem, try stopping the rod more suddenly at the end of the stroke instead of hitting it harder at the start. Another option that will result in the same thing is to start the beginning of your cast by pulling on the rod, not jerking it.  With proper accelleration and the right casting arc, your rod tip will travel in a straight line "—-" from start through the flexing and to the finish which will throw a tight efficient loop.                         Hope this helps,                                 Dan Dan Gracia Orvis West Coast Fly Fishing Schools

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If anyone can help me I could really use some advice (and I really don’t want to hear anything about my socks not matching my shoes).  I consider myself an intermediate fly caster, but I occassionally will get a closing loop where the leader will actually wrap itself around the loop.  I read in a book that it can be caused by accelerating into the foreward cast too soon and not smoothly accelerating. Does anyone else have some advice? All opinions are appreciated. Thanks, Dana

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Question:

I’ve only gone fishing a few times in my life and I’m currently in the Pittsburgh area.  Since all I have is a fishing rod, what I need is some starting points.  If anyone knows of fishing sites in the Pittsburgh area along with the appropriate season for fishing there, I would appreciate Thanks.

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I’ve only gone fishing a few times in my life and I’m currently in the Pittsburgh area.  Since all I have is a fishing rod, what I need is some starting points.  If anyone knows of fishing sites in the Pittsburgh area along with the appropriate season for fishing there, I would appreciate Thanks.

Serene Fly-Fishing Adventures fishing all of Pa top waters from Erie tribs to W.B.Delaware for wild trout.  Cent Pa limestone contact Pete for mor info.

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- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I’ve only gone fishing a few times in my life and I’m currently in the Pittsburgh area.  Since all I have is a fishing rod, what I need is some starting points.  If anyone knows of fishing sites in the Pittsburgh area along with the appropriate season for fishing there, I would appreciate Thanks. Serene Fly-Fishing Adventures fishing all of Pa top waters from Erie tribs to W.B.Delaware for wild trout.  Cent Pa limestone contact Pete for mor info.

There’s 2 or more books out for streams in PA. Don B. Wishful collector of Gillums and Dickersons – owner of Montague, H-I and Heddons

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Question:

I understand these boats are great for getting around the Texas flats looking for redfish and trout, but I wonder how a SOT kayak would handle the small rivers and lakes of central Texas. Anyone with experience on these craft?

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I bought an Aquaterra Swing last fall and have only fished out of it twice.  On both occasions, however, it has proved to be a very stable craft, quiet, and easy to paddle.  The one drawback is that you will get wet, so it’s much more comfortable in warm weather/water.  Of course, you could wear waders or a wet suit. I have yet to try it in moving water, but would think it would operate quite nicely in moderate flows. Regards,  -William Ivey – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I understand these boats are great for getting around the Texas flats looking for redfish and trout, but I wonder how a SOT kayak would handle the small rivers and lakes of central Texas. Anyone with experience on these craft?

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I thought of rigging outriggers to a regular kayak so you could stand while flyfishing if you desired. Anyone ever try this. MichaelSmith

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I understand these boats are great for getting around the Texas flats looking for redfish and trout, but I wonder how a SOT kayak would handle the small rivers and lakes of central Texas. Anyone with experience on these craft?

        I use an SOT for tooling around in the reservoirs and impoundments of central Virginia, and I have a blast.  I can duck into really shallow areas, and can portage the boat and my rod fairly easily.  My only trouble has been the occasional hooking of the bow hardware; it is really tough to pull any flies out without beaching.  However, I feel more stable in the SOT (don’t flame me-that is just a PERSONAL preference, not a condemnation of canoes), so I prefer it to a canoe.  Since SOTs are so responsive to the paddle, almost as much as a traditional kayak, I havesome  problems using mine in moving water and fishing at the same time.  I tend to get wrapped up in one or the other, so I can’t get both done.  However, from my days living in Houston, I remember some of the central Texas rivers like the Guadalupe are relatively slow, like our local river-fed impoundments.  By all means try it; I have a blast with mine. Dan Johnson

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I have been kayaking for several years, and have both sea and whitewater boats.  I often fish from my sea kayak.  As far as SOT’s go, they are the fastest growing segment in kayaking, so if you don’t like what’s out there now, wait until next year.  Best advice is visit the nearest dealer that carries the major brands of SOT’s (Aquaterra, Dagger, Ocean Kayak), and paddle them all — take your gear and see how it fits on and in the boat.  See how stable/unstable it is while casting.  Any good dealer will spend the time with you so you get what you want.   Most likely you will find a short touring boat best for lakes and moving water up to Class II rapids.  Whitewater SOT’s will be too tippy and not track well enough for you to enjoy on lakes, but paddle them anyway — find out for yourself.  You may want to consider a high quality inflatable kayak like AIRE, SOAR, or Northwest River Supplies — packable, durable, responsive, stable as heck.  Good luck.

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Question:

My girlfriend has asked me to teach her how to flyfish.  I’ve been an avid flyfisherman for three years now.  I feel I’m good enough to tie knots in the air with the best of them . A few questions: 1. I don’t want to spend a lot of money for a rod/reel that she may lose interest in so I’m going to get something that I can use in the future (if necessary).  Any opinions on the prepackaged everything-you-need-to-start-NOW rod/reel/line combos?  I’ve seen some ranging from $30 to $200. Quality is an issue. 2. She asked if being left-handed would make a difference.  It had never occurred to me that I routinely cast with either hand, depending on the situation (ie, how many flies I’ve lost in the tree to my right-rear).  Retrieving is always done with rod in right/reeling with left.  Just curious if any left-handers have had any problems learning or buying equipment. 3. Women’s waders: I haven’t been able to find any in stores around here (Grand Rapids, MI).  Any experiences with mail ordering women’s waders (good or bad) would be helpful.  She will use the waders irregardless of fishing since she’s into fisheries biology.  Looking for good 4mm or 5mm neoprene. I read the thread from a few months ago about teaching the Significant Other how to flyfish. Interesting advice that will be taken to heart. Thanks in advance. Tight lines, Brian Austin

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My girlfriend has asked me to teach her how to flyfish.  I’ve been an avid flyfisherman for three years now.  I feel I’m good enough to tie knots in the air with the best of them . (snip) 2. She asked if being left-handed would make a difference.  It had never occurred to me that I routinely cast with either hand, depending on the situation (ie, how many flies I’ve lost in the tree to my right-rear).  Retrieving is always done with rod in right/reeling with left.  Just curious if any left-handers have had any problems learning or buying equipment. Tight lines, Brian Austin

In terms of _learning_ to cast, my advice would be to stand in front of your girlfriend and have her "mirror" what you’re doing to get the timing, or stand to her left so she can see what you’re doing.  Or, get a copy of Ed Jaworowski’s book on casting (the best ever, IMHO). Enjoy! Doug Stewart

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Brain. I suggest you bring her to my small ranch in Montana. Hawley Mountain Ranch max guests 24 is in the Absaroka Wilderness 25 miles north of Yellowstone Park. You can fish the Boulder River, horse back ride, hike or just read a book. This summer I caught so many fish that—ok I also hurt my right arm moving rocks–my right arm hurt so I had to learn to teach fly fishing with my left. So now when I go to the stream either arm works.  As far as teaching your girlfriend to fish , I taught my first wife to drive. Will enought said on that point. I did teach Ellen new wife of 10yr. how to fish when she was a girlfriend. First time on the stream she caught and released 6 before I got a fly on— so be careful!!!  Enjoy her and the outdoors thats what life is about.                       Your Montana Friend!!!                          Bryant Blewett BBlewett

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Question:

well it looks as though I will be moving to the Herndon, VA area. Could someone send me a list of some suggested fly fishing areas

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Could someone please send me a list of possible fishing spots in the Leesburg and Herndon area of northern VA

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writes: Order books from Ed Murry’s fly shop in Edinsburg, VA for info re VA. KimD7.

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Question:

Any hints/shops people can recommend for an end of August trip to 10Mile Lake near Hackensack MN? I’m bringing both fly-fishing & baitcasting gear in the hopes of catching my first walleye. mike chin

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Any hints/shops people can recommend for an end of August trip to 10Mile Lake near Hackensack MN? I’m bringing both fly-fishing & baitcasting gear in the hopes of catching my first walleye. mike chin

Yes.  Try "long-lining" a straight gold/black rapala in the late evening and night.  Troll shallow and at medium speeds with an electric. This is how we used to fish this lake, and at times this produced extremely nice walleyes. -tgades

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Any hints/shops people can recommend for an end of August trip to 10Mile Lake near Hackensack MN? I’m bringing both fly-fishing & baitcasting gear in the hopes of catching my first walleye. mike chin

Talk to the folks in Reeds Sporting Goods in Walker, Mn. they should know where the walleyes are biting.  Never caught one on a fly though.

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