Question:

[deleted] I need to just fish. Tim,…sometimes you can get shown the light in the strangest of places if you look at it right…, Long

Indeed (than, should this be "fishing through foul weather can have profound affects on perception"  ? ;o ) — Halfordian Golfer

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< great advice snipped Thanks Mike, I am still very new to this,,,working on my 3rd year of excessiveness. Funny thing, today while fishing a larger river in the pouring rain, something just sorta clicked, and Man you should have seen the beautiful tight loops I was throwing, one after another. I think maybe it came to me to quit worrying about what my arm is doing and think more about throwing loops in the line. I think maybe I think too much sometimes…I need to just fish. Tim,…sometimes you can get shown the light in the strangest of places if you look at it right…, Long

Ya, even on ROFF <g Most curves in the leader are caused by too much power.  If the cast is overhead, it’ll tuck under.  A sidearm cast produces a considerable sideways curve.  A semi-sidearm cast with too much power by a right hander will produce a left curve. You’ll know for sure if you execute a perfect overhead cast and produce no curve. Peter Visit The Streamer Page at http://members.home.net/pcharles/streamers/index.html

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< great advice snipped Thanks Mike, I am still very new to this,,,working on my 3rd year of excessiveness. Funny thing, today while fishing a larger river in the pouring rain, something just sorta clicked, and Man you should have seen the beautiful tight loops I was throwing, one after another. I think maybe it came to me to quit worrying about what my arm is doing and think more about throwing loops in the line. I think maybe I think too much sometimes…I need to just fish. Tim,…sometimes you can get shown the light in the strangest of places if you look at it right…, Long

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- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – When casting my leader often lays out with a distinct left curve to it…the leader usually turns over nicely butthe last couple of feet of leader seem to want to go to the left,,,never the right. Any suggestions on what to look for to correct this? Thanks, Tim Long straight behind.  ALL curl casts are due to a side finish of the tip. It can be of great use Tim if your a natural at it.  The question now is, can you do it the opposite direction? LOL! — #

Of course it is possible.  A right handed caster would perform this feat by casting over his head and left shoulder.  The beauty of a wooded stream is that all permutations of casting eccentricies are quite pertinent indeed. I myself adore  the small streams with a small  <7 footer.  I really like the adaptable casting that these small water courses provide.   However, there is a downside of such activities.  One such aspect is the peculiarness of long lining (90 plus feet) over stillwaters.  Several years ago,  and with less sophisticated equipment,  I was able to accomplish this task routinely.  However, lately,  I have been experiencing "technical hitches". After many summers of stream only angling,  I fished this winter a couple of times, on a lake with a new 9 foot 6 weight  and an old WF #6F.  I hadn’t cast a fulll line for a long time,  and had little difficulty doing so, except for the presentation,  which to be frank,   was awful.  I was shocked to say the least.   Anyway,  I scrutinised as much as I could,  but still slapped the water  with a downward thump of the tip, or worse,  a folded up leader.  I reckoned too much forward power,  for the down thump,  like in if you were to cast with flyline only,  no leader (that fishtail thump),  yet in that trip was unable to solve the casting problem.  I’ll have to do more practice  and observations and hopefully I’ll sort this distressing problem out!

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When casting my leader often lays out with a distinct left curve to it…the leader usually turns over nicely butthe last couple of feet of leader seem to want to go to the left,,,never the right. Any suggestions on what to look for to correct this? Thanks, Tim Long

It’s usually the "speed up and stop" portion of the cast that is the problem. If it’s not made straight ahead  you’ll get a curve in your cast. –tony

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I have learned to control it…and even used this to my advantage a time or two. I just can’t seem to use it to my advantage on a consistent basis. Tim, Lefty I ain’t, Long Tim, I have a tape of Lefty Kreh doing exactly that on purpose, useful for reaching around obstructions in the water (boulders, etc.) He does that at shows, too. Last year one of my sons was wearing a red jacket and Lefty put a (hookless) fly on his shoulder, after announcing he would of course<g. — Charlie…

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I heard/read somewhere that years ago people were taught to cast with a book under their arm as a lesson to keep your arm in close to your body. Is this still relevent? As I pantomime my casting stroke I notice my forearm pointing away from my body,my upper arm staying pretty close to my body, much like throwing a baseball. I think maybe I have developed this out of need due to fishing in areas that have alot of cover. Does the curve come from the end of the casting stroke,,,I should be able to cast side arm and not have this curve,right? Tim

This is true, keeping your elbow and arm close to your body increases the power and accuracy of your stroke.  There are many ways of casting, some are good and some are not so good. If you manage to get your fly where you want it to go, and you are happy with the results,

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 on the contrary:  posts such as yours often transform banality into a worthwhile subject for ridicule.

Who else has a motorcycle with 3 fly tying vices on it (except maybe Dig Dale<g)? — Charlie…

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(except maybe Dig Dale<g)?

Or Big Dale, too… — Charlie…

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however, you must not consider my response to be an effort to take  the keyboard from your hands.  on the contrary:  posts such as yours often transform banality into a worthwhile subject for ridicule.

Almost makes me feel bad I missed it. If you hear a distant scream from the East later this morning, you’ll know all those missing posts showed up at once when I fired up ROFF from my office PC. –Steve

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(snip ramblings from the king of babble-on)         george, it is a pity that you are so bereft of literacy; otherwise, the world of psychiatry would be afforded a marvelous insight into the world of the egomaniac, at no cost, here at roff.         however, you must not consider my response to be an effort to take  the keyboard from your hands.  on the contrary:  posts such as yours often transform banality into a worthwhile subject for ridicule.         "wayne"

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What I like about my place is that it reeks with the outdoors/indoors. The unusual objects that grace this place of quiet solitude are really signatures of my life.  To the right of me, as I write this is a motorcycle, right next to my desk – a library of outdoor literature that would keep any man busy reading for several years and in fact, most of them are valuable collector items.  The pictures that adorn my walls began years ago which include art works along with my own.  A River Runs Through It, given to me by Redford, tons of inventory and boxes in the upper lofts which we use to ship in to customers all over the world and to my right, my Studio Upright Balwin piano which I tickle, now and then in moments of reverie. A Setter, usually lays at my feet no matter where I sit each day.  Such companionship is one of osmosis, I suppose.  Love unconditional is the best kind of love, which often is more real from animals whose senses are keener than words.  If you want to know that man, I’ve always said, look at his animals.  Are his horse shy from abuse?  Do his dogs cower and does the cat slink away to hide?  Thing is, I marvel that most new people who show up must be warned that they may be licked to death around here. I have serveral com sites that have not been developed yet and I suppose this winter I and David Ion may start doing something about that. Mainly because the bamboo blanks are in great demand and growing. Burning the night oil, late at night, pondering the next decimals on the lathe while listening to Barbara Cook or the Four Freshmen on the Studio Sound System – waxes the hours away.  I’ve always loved working with my hands.  The creation of things that take form for others is a joy for me.  I am good at the things that I do.  A rare gift, I’m told but it makes me smile.  Often, when I work, I have a specific man’s name in mind and although I may not know what they look like, I know the heart. For me, that is what matters. I have a second motorcycle setting by a well used and equiped fly tying center and table.  It has three fly tying vises on it and the finest material money can buy.  The finest refreshments that money can buy is not far away and often, the finest company dwell on life in soft whispers and laughter while pretty things are plucked and stored in fly boxes.  Steelhead season is on and it has been better this year.  The river banks are lined here and there with vehicles, empty of the driver.  One cannot help but look to the river for them. Harmonics has been my bane for three weeks now.  I have hunted this bitch for all this time, trying hard to find the harmony long since lost.  The mill has been eating tips like M & M’s and it tends to piss me off because its been so difficult.  Tonight, finally, the dial indicator needle is setting vibration free for the first time in months, if not nearly a year. I’ve tired of the politics on ROFF and the nonsense of subject matters not dealing with fly fishing.  There is so much to think about regarding the subject and there are so many facets as found on a diamond, yet to be explored.  We used to talk about those a couple years ago all the time.  It used to be as fun as what is enjoyed in the fly tying section.  No darwinian nonsense there.  Just pure fly tying and gentlemen of the first realm. Well, I had to take a break and this computer and hook up is different from the other.  Old friends still write on the side and the letters are warm and caring.  The kind of people that make this world a nice place are often singular minds enjoying and trusting the minutes spent with friends.  Nothing worse in life than bores who only hawk and take inventory of others.  Such a waste of valuable time. I sometimes think of that long line of camels on the horizon in a far away desert.  Mirage like they seem . . . shimmering in the heat of the sun, almost unreal.  If you walk toward them, you notice the camels are in a long, thin line and as you get closer and closer, as in ROFF, you notice they are tied together with singular lines, halter to tail, halter to tail and should you follow with your eye to the front, the lead animal is always a donkey.  ROFFIANS, like the donkey have to figure out why it is always a donkey that leads and if that is good or a bad thing. Right Wayne? — Mr.G. http://www.gink.com "the sage continues"

  gink.vcf

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Question:

I have a question, my daughter is pregnant and has her navel pierced and she asked me if she would need to take it out as her belly grows. I told her I would ask you all since you are very knowledgeable about these things. Thanks                                             Tess Angels can fly because they take themselves lightly…..

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I have a question, my daughter is pregnant and has her navel pierced and she asked me if she would need to take it out as her belly grows. I told her I would ask you all since you are very knowledgeable about these things. Thanks                                            Tess

I had my navel pierced just before I got pregnant.  I was incredably lucky and didn’t have to remove my jewlery.  I should add thought that the reason i was able to elave the jewlery in was because…well as the guy who pierced it at Stainless Studios said my navel is" just plain weird!"  The truth of the matter is most women do indeed have to remove their jewlery, either because the jewlery will beging to migrate out, or becasue the streching causes micro tears in the healed piercing and those tears get infected.  If she does decide to take the piercing out as her belly gets bigger, she can take comfort int he fact that, if the piercing is well healed, there is a chance that the hole will not close entierly and instead of her having to have it re-pierced after her pregnancy, she could simply have it streched back up to whatever size the current jewlery is. Hope that was helpful. Ashen. P.S.  this is a little O.T. but if you live near a place with a "Body Shop" you should head in there and buy her a few COco-butter sticks….have her rub that in her tummy, thighs, butt and brests and it will really help reduce the amount of strechmarks she receives. Trust me those sticks are a god send!!

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Thankyou for the info and I used cocoa butter on both my pregnancies and it did wok wonders (running out to Bath and Body works now)                                                  Tess Angels can fly because they take themselves lightly…..

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I have a question, my daughter is pregnant and has her navel pierced and she asked me if she would need to take it out as her belly grows. I told her I would ask you all since you are very knowledgeable about these things. Thanks                                             Tess Angels can fly because they take themselves lightly…..

Yes your daughter should take the navel piercing out until she has the baby. The ring will stretch the hole and it may look like it’s about to rip out. I’ve seen some of my friends that got pregnant, there piercing’s look like the skin was all stretch out and about to rip throw the skin. When you go to the hospital for any operation they ask that you remove any rings, the same should be in this case.  Howard

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I have a question, my daughter is pregnant and has her navel pierced

and she asked me if she would need to take it out as her belly grows. I told her I would ask you all since you are very knowledgeable about these things.

Well, it depends on a number of things. In most cases it is better to remove the jewelry. The ring can cause damage to the piercing area has the body grows. The other problem is that if she is planning a hospital birth more than likely, they will give her clotting agents that will react to the metal the ring is made of. If she is concerned about losing the piercing she may consider using "fishing line" aka Monofilament nylon line which will tend to be a little more fexible then a ring and will not react to the clotting agents. — http://www.geocities.com/SunsetStrip/Amphitheatre/9352

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I have a question, my daughter is pregnant and has her navel pierced and she asked me if she would need to take it out as her belly grows. I told her I would ask you all since you are very knowledgeable about these things. Thanks                                             Tess Angels can fly because they take themselves lightly…..

Well, I posed that same question about 2-3 months ago when I found out I was pregnant. The info I got said that most people end up taking the jewelery out at about 6 months or so.  A few people posted that they were able to keep the original jewelery for the entire pregnancy. For me, at about 15 weeks, my belly button was shallow enough for the pierce to look pretty much like a surface pierce.  The top hole was getting sore and red and the ring was sticking out a great deal.  I was finding it exceedingly uncomfortable (especially when I started breaking out the panel pant which put the waistband of my pants above my navel. The pants would rub the ring when I walked and it was not a happy time for my navel. I had a choice of trying a barbell, fishing line or taking the jewelery out. I decided against a barbell because my navel was shallow as it was and I figured that the balls would probably start to dig in fairly soon.  I also didn’t really want to take the jewelery out without trying to keep it. So, I went to the hardware store to see if I could find fishing line that was close to the same gauge as my ring.  And the fishing line was all really tiny in comparison.  So, I bought a weed whacker line that’s close in gauge.  I cut a piece of the weed whacker line about 2mm longer than the length of the pierce and slid that puppy in.  So far, it’s been fine and I’m at 19 weeks.  The redness went away and the "retainer" isn’t bothersome in the least. My navel was pierced over a year ago and was totally healed when I got pregnant.  I would -not- suggest putting non-autoclaved weedwhacker line in just any navel, but it is working out for me, YMMV.  It’s plastic so it’s more flexible than a barbell.  And the pierce is tight enough for it to stay in place. It looks like I have a piece of uncooked spaghetti in there now though. electric. — please remove id. from the return addy to email electric.

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Yes your daughter should take the navel piercing out until she has the baby. The ring will stretch the hole and it may look like it’s about to rip out. I’ve seen some of my friends that got pregnant, there piercing’s look like the skin was all stretch out and about to rip throw the skin. When you go to the hospital for any operation they ask that you remove any rings, the same should be in this case.  Howard

They didn’t ask me to remove my rings, or my piercing jewlery….they did say though that if i had any vaginal piercings i would have to remove those.  At the time I did not, so there was not problem. Ashen.

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someone mentioned the cocoa butter sticks, they sell them at walgreens too (probably also other pharmacies), i think they’re palmer brand (the brand that makes all the cocoa butter stuff) good luck stephanie Thankyou for the info and I used cocoa butter on both my pregnancies and it did wok wonders (running out to Bath and Body works now)                                                  Tess Angels can fly because they take themselves lightly…..

– My Page: http://www.princeton.edu/~saobodda Best Radio Station: http://listen.to/wprb For Sale: http://auctions.yahoo.com/user/stephanieauryn "Don’t damn me when I speak a piece of mind ‘Cause silence isn’t golden when I’m holding it inside." -Guns and Roses

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Question:

Hi My sentiments are similar to Christian’s first posting. I prefer a slightly stiffer rod when Spey casting, I started with a so called "Spey" but found it difficult to achieve distance without perfect timing. You need to slow down your whole casting action, wait for the rod to load before applying the power. Timing is everything when using a traditional Spey actioned rod. They are not suitable for using with any kind of sinking line, the action is just too slow and this gives the line time to sink between the "back cast" and forward cast. I soon changed to a 15′ 1" Sage with a stiffer action and found this to be near perfect for me, with both floating and sinking lines. It can be used with shooting heads as Christian mentions (12 meters of #12 line is perfect) and casts of 40+ yards are fairly routine with this method. It is tireing though having to strip in nearly 30 yards of line every cast. As for breakages, the more expensive the rod the better the guarentee (usually), my Sage has a lifetime guarentee, the Diawa doesn’t have any guarentee. As usual it all comes down to "how much you want to spend". Bruce & Walker rods are a range I can recommend – buy the "Walker" rods they have the stiffer action. The Norway or Speycaster range are excellent rods. The Diawa Amorphous is a good range. At the top of the tree are the Sage and the Hardy Ultralite/Elite range. Only my opinions. Chris

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Hi Chris

Hi Chris I would like to make a couple of small but very important points here regarding your change from one rod to another. It is my humble opinion  your first rod didn’t quite suit your casting style and or body shape. With the greatest respects that doesn’t mean that particular rod is not suitable for somebody else. Just as your move to a Sage doesn’t mean that a Sage will suit everybody. My point is that the individual must buy a rod that suits/fits him or her. Two of my mates fish and cast perfectly well with 19ft (yes 19 feet) B&W’s but I cannot cast very well with them. I can cast however the same amount of line (as them) with a 15ft B&W, I can also cast a few of the other available rods, including almost all of the Daiwa rods, equally well. Other rods that I cannot come to grips with are the B&W Hexograph the Sage (Chris’s rod) and some of the Walkers although I think with practice I could master the Walkers. My point is that someone buying a new rod must try a few out first and choose the one that they think suits them. I fish regularly with a stiff rod the B&W 15ft heavy duty Expert, but this rod has a very fast action, unlike the slower action of the ones I cannot use. As mentioned before there are many X’s in the equation and here are some of them. A stiff rod with a fast action A stiff rod with a slow action A soft rod with a slow action ( I can’t think of a soft rod that’s got a fast action) The size of line you choose to fish with your chosen rod, (normally rods are rated for three sizes, but there is a tremendous difference between a 9 and an 11. This will also has an impact on how soft the rod feels and casts) Floating etc…etc…etc…. Okay I’m off the pedastal ) Regards Lawr, – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -Hi My sentiments are similar to Christian’s first posting. I prefer a slightly stiffer rod when Spey casting, I started with a so called "Spey" but found it difficult to achieve distance without perfect timing. You need to slow down your whole casting action, wait for the rod to load before applying the power. Timing is everything when using a traditional Spey actioned rod. They are not suitable for using with any kind of sinking line, the action is just too slow and this gives the line time to sink between the "back cast" and forward cast. I soon changed to a 15′ 1" Sage with a stiffer action and found this to be near perfect for me, with both floating and sinking lines. It can be used with shooting heads as Christian mentions (12 meters of #12 line is perfect) and casts of 40+ yards are fairly routine with this method. It is tireing though having to strip in nearly 30 yards of line every cast. As for breakages, the more expensive the rod the better the guarentee (usually), my Sage has a lifetime guarentee, the Diawa doesn’t have any guarentee. As usual it all comes down to "how much you want to spend". Bruce & Walker rods are a range I can recommend – buy the "Walker" rods they have the stiffer action. The Norway or Speycaster range are excellent rods. The Diawa Amorphous is a good range. At the top of the tree are the Sage and the Hardy Ultralite/Elite range. Only my opinions. Chris

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My fishing buddy and I have obseved a few people Spey casting up here on the Miramichi.  It looks like fun.  They cast a mile-long line.  But, we have always wondered if the method helps them catch more fish?  We cover the same amount of water (or more) by fishing from a canoe.  If there are fish that are out of our reach, we just move the boat into a position so that we get a good swing over them. JB

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Hi Lawr You are right to make these valid points but I thought I had mentioned them in my original posting, I checked and I had. I prefer a slightly stiffer rod when Spey casting Timing is everything when using a traditional Spey actioned rod. I soon changed to a 15′ 1" Sage with a stiffer action and found this to be near perfect for me

I think these snippits confirm that the information I gave was MY preferences, I was not trying to make hard and fast rules that apply to everybody. As for hard and fast rules I still believe the only comment I made against traditional actioned "spey" rods was They are not suitable for using with any kind of sinking line, the action is just too slow and this gives the line time to sink between the "back cast" and forward cast.

and this is something I still maintain. Thanks for keeping us on our toes Lawr. Chris

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I’m sorry Chris!! I wasn’t trying to have a go at your opinions, postings can often come across a bit strong. My intention was to add other considerations to all the other opinions including yours. Don’t mind me I rattle on a bit when it’s a subject I like ) however I can say sorry and I can do a U-Turn if I’m wrong ) Best Regards Lawr, PS Have you checked out the Ness System reports etc…on my website?? www.f-deans.freeserve.co.uk – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Hi Lawr You are right to make these valid points but I thought I had mentioned them in my original posting, I checked and I had. I prefer a slightly stiffer rod when Spey casting Timing is everything when using a traditional Spey actioned rod. I soon changed to a 15′ 1" Sage with a stiffer action and found this to be near perfect for me I think these snippits confirm that the information I gave was MY preferences, I was not trying to make hard and fast rules that apply to everybody. As for hard and fast rules I still believe the only comment I made against traditional actioned "spey" rods was They are not suitable for using with any kind of sinking line, the action is just too slow and this gives the line time to sink between the "back cast" and forward cast. and this is something I still maintain. Thanks for keeping us on our toes Lawr. Chris

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Hi, I am interested in buying a double handed salmon rod, It should be quite allround, so I am thinking of a rod of about 14′ for #9/10. I have been casting both (still having to learn a lot) and like the single and double Spey and rollcasts. Should I choose the somewhat softer "old" design Speycastrods or would a modern stiffer design be better ???? I don’t want to start with just a cheap rod, then a fair rod, a good rod and after that buying a realy nice rod. Good advise is welcome……. Regards, Ger.

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It should be quite allround, so I am thinking of a rod of about 14′ for #9/10. [...] Should I choose the somewhat softer "old" design Speycastrods or would a modern stiffer design be better ????

I say go for the modern stiffer design.  Not that you especially need a stiff rod, but because the old design speyrods were designed with traditional speycasting in mind, meaning loading the rod all the way around the spey cast. Nowadays, you would just go with a shooting head and a spiced up roll cast. I’ll happily admit, I’m drawing up two extremes here, and even though your question kinda opened that door, it isn’t particularly useful in terms of fishing. The old style spey casting would enable you to cast a 45 yard DT line in a single casting motion, but it required very good technique and it was also hard work. Rods had to be heavy and slow action to perform such a cast, and I think you need to wear tweed to get it right, as well..   That time has past, basically. — At least here in Norway. ( it seems the time of rivers packed with salmon are gone up here too..)  Lightweight, fast rods are dominating, and shooting heads are getting more popular. Some still use WF-lines or other taperings, in contrast to the now rare, but formerly very popular DT line. Most people tend to retrieve quite a bit of line before making the cast (especially with shooting heads), and the cast isn’t really a jolly old God save the Queen spey cast (Hi there, Brits! , but more like an advanced roll cast. It works, and I’ve found it to be much easier than real spey casting. The distance potential is impeccable, and its only drawback is that you have your fly less in the water than with real spey casting (due to line retrieval between casts). Also, sinking vs. floating line can make a difference in your choice. To handle a sinking line, a light weight, fast tip-action rod might not be sufficient. But for WF or ST floating lines, the faster and lighter rod would excel. So, I think you need to ask yourself, do you want to fish effectively and easily with a two-handed rod, or do you in fact want to learn the traditional spey casting?  Absolutely nothing wrong with the latter. I may be off with my definitions. The last time I responded to a spey cast question, several knowledgeable people objected and offered alternative views, and I can’t guarantee I got it right this time. I just feel that you perhaps shouldn’t go for the heavy, slow action rod, based solely on tradition, without considering more modern applications of two-handed casting (and besides, slow action rods doesn’t have to be heavy – I just made that up.. ). As always when buying a rod, test casting several options is the best way to go. We all have our quirks and preferences. Too fast of an action can be very bad, considering you’re dealing with a 14′ rod here –the longer the rod, the more accuracy is needed in handling it. Personally, I would put great emphasis on weight. I use to have a Bruce & Walker Powerlite 15′, an absolutely wonderful rod, extremely light weight for its size. It broke, and most other rods I’ve tried, made me and especially my back longing for my B&W.. Its successor is the B&W Powerlite Speycaster, and if you have the chance, I’d suggest you have a look at it. — Christian Figenschou – http://figen.com

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Should I choose the somewhat softer "old" design Speycastrods or would a modern stiffer design be better ????

If you plan to use switch, single and double spey casts, then go with a true "spey" rod. If you plan to use casts like one would with a trout rod (i.e. overhand + false casting), then go with a more modern rod. The big difference is that the spey rod flexes for the entire length of the shaft, and it can handle flexing in all directions.  More modern rods have a "progressive taper" where the butt section of the shaft hardly bends and most of the flex occurs in the top 1/3-rd of the shaft.  Modern rods have also been optimized for front-back casting, and may not handle flexing in all directions as well as a spey rod. Finally, don’t confuse stiffness with power.  Modern rods have a quick snappy tip designed to generate high line speed over a short distance.  Older rods, including glass, generate moderate line speed, but over a greater distance. In part because of my decent but not super-powerful wrist and forearm strength, I feel like I can toss a line farther and more accurately with the softer rods. Thomas Gilg

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Thomas and Christian have given you very good advice however it is my humble opinion that you must buy a rod that suits/fits  *you*.  When buying a pair of shoes you do not buy a pair that fits somebody else and this is the case with Spey Rods. When Spey casting/fishing there are many many X’s in the equation and without trying a rod on to see if it *fits* you (and the type of water you are fishing) you will be unaware of them. This is why it takes years to perfect a good Spey cast. You are right however to go for a good quality rod first time round. On the river Ness System Scotland, a great Spey casting area, the most common rod is the Daiwa  Amorphous 15 or 16 ft, I don’t own one at the moment but if buying a new rod I would buy the 15ft. The extra lightweight rods *may* have a tendency to break as Christian pointed out especially if using a sink tip or full sinking line. HTH Lawr, www.f-deans.freeserve.co.uk         "Fishing On The Fly"               :{)< – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -Hi, I am interested in buying a double handed salmon rod, It should be quite allround, so I am thinking of a rod of about 14′ for #9/10. I have been casting both (still having to learn a lot) and like the single and double Spey and rollcasts. Should I choose the somewhat softer "old" design Speycastrods or would a modern stiffer design be better ???? I don’t want to start with just a cheap rod, then a fair rod, a good rod and after that buying a realy nice rod. Good advise is welcome……. Regards, Ger.

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Oh! dear does your friend have a licence ) (only kidding) When you get accustomed to a rod it is difficult to make the transition to another rod. Even two rods from the same maker with exactly the same specifications (i.e. two B&W 15ft heavy duty Experts) can have different actions. Over the years I have seen quite a few Spey rods broken during casting (the noise is a bit like a gun going off) with no particular rod type being the worst case.  IMHO it would be more difficult to break an Expert than say a Powerlight especially if using a sinking line or sink tip coupled with 3 inch leaded waddington. I know the above is an extreme case but you may need a rod that is capable of fishing all the extremes. Regards Lawr, – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – The extra lightweight rods *may* have a tendency to break as Christian pointed out especially if using a sink tip or full sinking line. In this particular case, I’ve found them to have a tendency of breaking when your friend runs over them with his car..   — Christian Figenschou – http://figen.com

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Question:

Looking for tips, patterns, rivers, fly shops, etc. in the vicinity of Brevard and Asheville, North Carolina.  We’ll be there for a few days the end of April, and want to get on the local waters.   Thanks in advance.

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Hi Keith I’ve found two sites on the internet that work well for me when traveling or preparing to travel. They are Switch Board and Map Quest. A quick Lycos search should get you the addresses. With Switch Board you get telephone listings for any area either by individual or by type of business. With Map Quest, you can print out a map on how to find any address. Good luck. Al Looking for tips, patterns, rivers, fly shops, etc. in the vicinity of Brevard and Asheville, North Carolina.  We’ll be there for a few days the end of April, and want to get on the local waters.   Thanks in advance.

Tight Lines ….. Al Beatty BT’s Fly Fishing Products http://www.btsflyfishing.com

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Looking for tips, patterns, rivers, fly shops, etc. in the vicinity of Brevard and Asheville, North Carolina.  We’ll be there for a few days the end of April, and want to get on the local waters.

In asheville, there’s Hunter Banks. They should provide you with the info you want. I know that they have an occasional net presence but I’m not familiar with it. Might be worth a search using Hunter Banks as the subject. Hope this helps. DA

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Looking for tips, patterns, rivers, fly shops, etc. in the vicinity of Brevard and Asheville, North Carolina.  We’ll be there for a few days the end of April, and want to get on the local waters. Thanks in advance.

Appalachian Angler – 164 Old Shull’s Mill Rd. Boone, NC 28607. (704-963-5050 Haden and his brother run the oldest guide servive in the area.They guide float and wading trips in NC, Tenn, and also run float trips in Alaska 100 days a year. Hope to be heading up there soon myself. BTW, there is an Orvis shop just down the road from them, but they wern’t nearly as informed or as helpful when I have stopped in to talk with them. I don’t remember the shops name or have their address, but it is located in Banner Elk, NC. Hope this helps, Steve Hike the Florida National Scenic Trail   For information: www: http://www.florida-trail.org/~fta Florida Trail Association P.O. Box 13708, Gainesville Fl. 32604 (800)343-1882

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Question:

Hello all!         I was hoping to try out Piru Creek sometime in September. I have never fished it and have no idea what it is like, but as it is only a few hours from my home, I thought it would be neat to try. Has anybody out there fished this creek? If so, can you give me some tips on what parts of the creek are most productive and what patterns and sizes to use? Any help would be greatly appreciated.                                 Thanks,                                         Jeff

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Jeff: I had a similar question a few months back when visiting LA, and got good this post.  But try him first.  He was enthusiastic about the small wild rainbows in Piru Creek.  Only trouble was, Don forgot to warn me about the safety aspects — the creek is only an hour from LA, and I never got to it — got chased off by a gang with a shotgun.  All part of the great adventure of flyfishing… Proceed with caution, ask Don’s advice, and good luck. Regards, George

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Jeff: I had a similar question a few months back when visiting LA, and got good this post.  But try him first.  He was enthusiastic about the small wild rainbows in Piru Creek.  Only trouble was, Don forgot to warn me about the safety aspects — the creek is only an hour from LA, and I never got to it — got chased off by a gang with a shotgun.  All part of the great adventure of flyfishing… Proceed with caution, ask Don’s advice, and good luck. Regards, George

I have found that it is better to go to the Mammoth area and take a whole weekend or go to the Kern above the lake.  I have fished a lot on Piru–it is not bad EARLY in the morning (reprodicible hatch–take 18-22 gnat imitations and small Adams along with small gold rib hares ears) abd youll miss the gill net/picnic/trash producing crowd and see  mainly  anglers (fly fishers at that).  There are usually  fish allover the place (small 8-12 max) but I have had the most luck downstream about 2-4 miles or so as well as upstream in the "catch-and-release"  (also known as the "gill-net-as-much-as-you-can-and-bait-dunk-for-the-rest" section to some of the anglers). If you do go up there plan on leaving early (ie 10 or 11 AM), bring lots of water and avoid the heat. Good Luck and tight lines– Aaron

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I fish Piru all the time.  The key to survival is the sacrifice car and 2lbs kevlar fishing vest.  I was there last in june and the water flow was down to a trickle.  Small fish only.  Does anyone know if there is a minimum flow for this tailwater?

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writes: – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – The C&K-crew has poached the C&R section again so it’s without many fish again. Contrary to what you must be thinking, I am sympathetic with the plight of this creek and the anglers who care about it.  It seems that the fundamental problem has been simply one of a resource that can not handle the incredible urban demand for it.  Or, maybe it has handled it beautifully.  If it is a put and take, C&K fishery completely, then I would call it a ’sacrificial watershed’.   I call Lake Powell a ’sacrificial watershed’.  That is, think of just how intenseley it is used.  Now consider, all of these motorhead boaters would be *somewhere else* (if not for Powell), would they not ?   All of these C&K gang members on Piru would be somewhere else, would they not ? So, make it C&R…pure C&R, protect those little stockers and what have you got ? Well, a crowd, still, albeit a more civilized crowd ? And what about those displaced C&K Gang members ?  Where would they be ?  Somewhere else, to be sure, maybe they’d be poaching at pyramid ?  Education ? Eradication ? Considered…but no…people as a whole are just too fucked up.  Get enough of them together and you have problems irregardless of regulations. How many gang bangers read the 1996 California Fishing Regs ? The answer lies in neither C&R nor C&K regulations, but in the acceptance of the fact that there are just too many damned people. Now, what are we going to do about that ?   TimW C&K Gangbanger

Trouble is Tim that this stream’s C&R section has a strain of native rainbows that has not been diluted with stocker blood. They are above a waterfall and thus isolated from the stocker filled section below. I agree that the fishing pressure is to much, but only because the gill net crews sweep the stream when ever the fish grow to larger than 8". The state’s solution of C&R on the upper section means that on most days only one or two people are fishing this section. But it is only 1.5 miles long. So when 300 fish are removed with gills nets, years worth of restoration efforts are destroyed. Solution to me is to remove some "nuts" to reduce gene-pool dilution. Hanging a few poachers from nearby trees and not removing them until their bones fall away also might work. If I could, I would have their pubic hair turned transformed into treblehooks. Or if one isn’t bloodthirsty, how about 40 hours a week for 6 months working on restoration work on the very stream they "f" up. Don B. PS – Yes, there’s too many people, have you called Dr. Death? Or are you looking for volunteers? Not me, I learn not to volunteer in the military.

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The C&K-crew has poached the C&R section again so it’s without many fish again.

Contrary to what you must be thinking, I am sympathetic with the plight of this creek and the anglers who care about it.  It seems that the fundamental problem has been simply one of a resource that can not handle the incredible urban demand for it.  Or, maybe it has handled it beautifully.  If it is a put and take, C&K fishery completely, then I would call it a ’sacrificial watershed’.   I call Lake Powell a ’sacrificial watershed’.  That is, think of just how intenseley it is used.  Now consider, all of these motorhead boaters would be *somewhere else* (if not for Powell), would they not ?   All of these C&K gang members on Piru would be somewhere else, would they not ? So, make it C&R…pure C&R, protect those little stockers and what have you got ? Well, a crowd, still, albeit a more civilized crowd ? And what about those displaced C&K Gang members ?  Where would they be ?  Somewhere else, to be sure, maybe they’d be poaching at pyramid ?  Education ? Eradication ? Considered…but no…people as a whole are just too fucked up.  Get enough of them together and you have problems irregardless of regulations. How many gang bangers read the 1996 California Fishing Regs ? The answer lies in neither C&R nor C&K regulations, but in the acceptance of the fact that there are just too many damned people. Now, what are we going to do about that ?   TimW C&K Gangbanger

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writes: – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Jeff: I had a similar question a few months back when visiting LA, and got good this post.  But try him first.  He was enthusiastic about the small wild rainbows in Piru Creek.  Only trouble was, Don forgot to warn me about the safety aspects — the creek is only an hour from LA, and I never got to it — got chased off by a gang with a shotgun.  All part of the great adventure of flyfishing… Proceed with caution, ask Don’s advice, and good luck. Regards, George

George, The C&K-crew has poached the C&R section again so it’s without many fish again. Also didn’t I tell you to wear your Kevlar Gore-Tex waders? The bullet-proof yet breathable models. <g Also, drive a sacrifical car if LA’s boy scouts are around and about. But do try to fish with a friend. Don’t challenge a bait fishermen in the single barbless hook C&R section unless you’re packing "iron". Just move on. Normally not a problem during peak fishing weekend times. Biggest problem today (9-4-96) is the Castaic fire has burned 25,00 acres near this stream. Since the fire was burning all weekend and I-5 was closed several times, I haven’t got up to see if the creek is still there.  So fishing might be for pre-cooked fish or for small fish only (fish fry). <g The Sierra Pacific Fly Fishers (SPFF) should be commended for trying to keep the stream up but without money from the state for a game warden the poaching will be an on-going problem. If anyone that still  goes there, try some Royal Wulff’s or other attractor flies. Bead-head’s also work well. It’s a shame because this could be a nice little trout stream. Don Burns

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Question:

I’m considering adding outriggers to my 22′ fishing boat.  Before I do, however, I thought I might try out planer boards which are set up to plane out to the side as the boat moves forward.  I would then attach a release clip to the planer board so that the line would free up from the board if a fish strikes.  It would seem to me that this type of system would be more practical on a small boat than outriggers.  Has anyone out there tried out this approach?  What have been your experiences? regards, gs Gary Segal, MD; Dept. of Medicine, UCI/VAMC, 5901 E. 7th Street, Long Beach,                         "AYMATAI"

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Sideplaners are very popular in the Great Lakes and probably the best bet as you use them when you need them and leave them when you don’t. Another easy option is some long rods.  I troll with 12 foot fly rod blanks turned out as trolling rods to get the separation I like. Another trick little item is a Downjigger — we’ll have some add pages on that in my Fine Fishing magazine — finefishing.com — in the next few days.  This sppeds and slows trolled lures to improve results. Sort of like rowing without blisters. Oh Fine Fishing has 600,000 words, 200+ articles, a half dozen recent awards etc. and like the NAOG material on our site, covers a lot of trolling if that’s what you like.  I’ll have a new So Cal saltwater editor on in the next couple of weeks too.a

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: I’m considering adding outriggers to my 22′ fishing boat.  Before I do, : however, I thought I might try out planer boards which are set up to plane : out to the side as the boat moves forward.  I would then attach a release : clip to the planer board so that the line would free up from the board if a : fish strikes.  It would seem to me that this type of system would be more : practical on a small boat than outriggers.  Has anyone out there tried out : this approach?  What have been your experiences? : I tried outriggers on my 20′ boat. I wasn’t very happy with the result. The smaller boat simply rolls too much, whipping the outriggers, putting a lot of strain on the gunwale mounts and jerking the baits. About the only thing that planer boards can’t do as well is to trail surface baits a long way behind the boat. They are also a little harder to work; you should have two people in the boat to manage them easily. — We sense that life is a dark comedy and maybe we can live with that. However, because the whole thing is written for the entertainment of the gods, too many of the jokes go right over our heads.     (D. R. Koontz)

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Question:

Can anyone out there tell me the dates etc. of the Southfield Michigan Fly Fishing Show,  Help, Help. David E. Kerridge

Response:

Dave, The show will be held on sta&sun March 16&17 in Southfield, Mi.   See you there! tight lines DWH

Response:

Dave, Second post, my computer died while sending the first post. Here it is again: The Southfied show will be March 16 & 17 thght lines Dave

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Question:

#Hello backpackers, #Does anyone know of a 35mm SLR camera that has interchangeable lens and is #designed to be light weight for backpacking?   # #Thanks…Stever # Well, I have used my Canon AE-1 and F-1, one or the other or both.  Any 35mm SLR is light enough to backpack, in my opinion.  It just depends on how far you want to go.  I also carried my Bogen tripod and several lenses from 20mm to 200mm, extension tubes, filters, etc. It just depends on how much photography you want to do.  On the last trip I went on I went by myself so the fact that I was loaded down and couldn’t go very far didn’t matter as much. —

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Hello backpackers, Does anyone know of a 35mm SLR camera that has interchangeable lens and is designed to be light weight for backpacking?   Thanks…Stever

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Hello backpackers, Does anyone know of a 35mm SLR camera that has interchangeable lens and is designed to be light weight for backpacking?  

Well, there is light weight and there is compact.  I know of examples of various combinations of these. Some of the new cameras are made of plastic and are quite light.  The Canon EOS Rebel springs to mind.  Very light but not too compact. (~$390 with 35-70 zoom) Most camera manufacturers have made compact cameras at one time or another: Nikon FM, Pentax ME super, Olympus OM series, etc.  But these are (mostly) metal cameras and aren’t as light as the Rebel mentioned above. (you have to buy some of these used ~$250) If you want SLR quality but can do with a fixed lens rangefinder, I find the Olympus XA to be an excellent, tiny, light camera, perfect for carrying in a backpack (used, ~$130).  Old Leica screwmount rangefinders (body ~$150, 5cm lens ~$100) are compact and have interchangeable excellent lenses but don’t have meters and may be unreliable because of their age (I like my IIIc). Some of the new point-and-shoot cameras have gotten good reviews. The Olympus Infinity Stylus is small, light, and has auto focus. (~$130) Personally, I carry an old Rollieflex medium format camera, a light meter, and a fairly light tripod (Velbon).  This doesn’t give me the flexability of interchangeable lenses but it is fairly lightweight and the Zeiss lens gives me 16×20 prints to die for.  -Dyer Lytle Dyer Lytle, National Optical Astronomy Observatories, Tucson, AZ, 602-323-4136 – "The goal of civilization is settled life and the achievement of luxury. But there is a limit which cannot be overstepped. When prosperity and luxury come to a people, they are followed by excessive consumption and extravagance. With that the human soul itself is undermined both in its worldly well-being and in its spiritual life." – –                       the Arab, Ibn Khaldun, greatest of all historians — Dyer Lytle, National Optical Astronomy Observatories, Tucson, AZ, 602-323-4136 – "The goal of civilization is settled life and the achievement of luxury.

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Does anyone know of a 35mm SLR camera that has interchangeable lens and is designed to be light weight for backpacking? I believe that Backpacker magazine had a review of lightweight cameras several issues ago (maybe last summer).  I think it was definitely within the last year or so.  Try your local library.

The article on lightweight cameras is in the August, 1990 issue of Backpacker magazine, pages 54 to 55. It reviews about 8 different cameras.         Steve Snyder            | This space for rent, inquire within. US Geological Survey Reston, VA | I only speak for myself. me.

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There are the inevitable comprimises to be made when ruggedness, seals against water or dirt and image quality vs. expense and weight are applied to cameras.         Nikon has a Nikonos V which weighs roughly 4 pounds (1 3/4 kg.) with a lens.  It carved out of solid aluminium, takes several lenses all but one of which is designed solely for underwater use, and can be used at depths of 100 m.  Great for white water rafting, not so great as a backpacking camera. Focus is set manually be guessing the distance (Galelian finder, not an SLR), shutter speed can be set automatically or manually in conjunction with the aperature. About $550.  Nikon also is about to introduce a much more elaborate autofucus SLR underwater camera that is not really well suited to land use (very heavy, very large) and will cost in excess of $3500 with a lens.         There are quality point and shoot cameras with reasonably fast and higher quality lenses.  A couple can even tolerate getting wet, though not at depth.  There are expensive models from Contax (~$400) Leica (made by Minolta), the equivalent Minolta, and Nikon. If you want memories, but not magazine quality reproductions, and are content leave the moose and flowers in the background, choose a point and shoot.  I find the common sense argument is only take a camera backpacking if you can afford emotionally and financially to sacrifice it.  The original poster wanted light weight first, then compact.  The point and shoots are the only choice that meet this constraint.         This is all from one who has dragged some very heavy packs of pro gear around, sometimes beyond discomfort.  I don’t shoot just for the memories.                                                         Paul

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The article on lightweight cameras is in the August, 1990 issue of Backpacker magazine, pages 54 to 55. It reviews about 8 different cameras.        Steve Snyder            | This space for rent, inquire within.

Could you possibly give us a run-down of the results? At least mention the cameras reviewed, and the overall winners? Thanks…

Response:

FYI, for Christmas I bought my wife a Nikon Tele-Touch 300.  It is NOT an SLR but it DOES take full-frame 35mm film.  It is lightweight, and as the name suggests does have a limited zoom capability.  It includes a built-in flash, DL223 lithium battery, and has DX coding to set ASA/ISO film speed automatically when you use 35mm film cartidges that are so marked. It is NOT waterproof.  It will probably crash big time if you drop it. It was also only a hair over $100 and it takes dynamite pictures.  It has a self winder and can be made ready to use in seconds, which, when combined with the leight weight and physically small size would probably be considered desireable for most backpacking. Overall, she likes it and is happy with it. HINT: next time you are going to hike/backpack in the mountains someplace and want a lightweight, cheap quick and dirty camera to take decent panoramic wide-view shots with, try the Kodak Panoramic 35 box.  And I do mean BOX.  If you’ve never seen one of these, it is essentially a disposable camera with film already in it.  This particular one uses a regular 35mm film and shoots a narrow strip through the middle of the frame.  Kodak processing equipment now counts this as a standardized print size, and returns a respectable panoramic print that is about 10" long and 3 1/2 or 4 inches high. We took one along last November when we hiked up to the Le Conte Lodge in the Smokies.  Got some very nice landscape shots with it.  You won’t get the image quality you might from the aforementioned Nikon, but then you also aren’t out bunches of bucks if it goes down the side of a mountain, either.  :-) Duane

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Hello backpackers, Does anyone know of a 35mm SLR camera that has interchangeable lens and is designed to be light weight for backpacking?   Thanks…Stever

Well…. Olympus is known for making pretty light gear, as is Minolta. If you want to stay as light as possible, stay away from auto-focus SLRs. One issue you might want to think about, depending on how much shooting you are going to be doing and how long you will be in the backcountry, would be the reliability of the camera. A really light-weight alternative might be a point-and-shoot camera with a built-in zoom lens. [Cross-posted to rec.photo] —– To sit in solitude, to think in solitude with only the music of the stream and the cedar to break the flow of silence, here lies the value of wilderness.                                                 — John Muir

Response:

Hello backpackers, Does anyone know of a 35mm SLR camera that has interchangeable lens and is designed to be light weight for backpacking?   Thanks…Stever

I use a Nikon FG for this sort of thing.  It’s not really designed for backpacking, probably other folks would say a Nikon FE2 is better since it’s more rugged.  Note that rugged implies heavier in general… As I’ve said on this net before, I like the FG because it’s light and it has TTL flash metering.  New enough to have TTL flash, old enough to have no heavy features like autofocus.  The FG is no longer made, you have to get a used one (same as the FE2…) I can weigh my FG and FE2 and get back to you if you want. Note that all these older Nikons can use the new autofocus lenses if you also have an AF body at home.       Phil White   Tektronix, Beaverton, OR  US Mail: Mail Stop 59-432, P.O. Box 500, Beaverton OR 97077-0001

Response:

The article on lightweight cameras is in the August, 1990 issue of Backpacker magazine, pages 54 to 55. It reviews about 8 different cameras.        Steve Snyder            | This space for rent, inquire within. Could you possibly give us a run-down of the results? At least mention the cameras reviewed, and the overall winners? Thanks…

Here goes… From August 1990 Backpacker magazine, pages 54-55. Article titled "Small Wonders… Compact Cameras for the Trail" by J. Michael Wyatt Reprinted without permission (sorry!)    How many times have you hesitated to dig your camera out of your pack for a single quick landscape shot? How often have you passed on grabbing a trailside candid of a companion? Ever leave your camera safely stowed because of dust, rain, or snow? Ever want to travel lighter and leave that expensive, full-sized, weighty 35mm SLR and lenses home, but bring back great photos of your trip?    It’s time you took a hard look at the world of point-and-shoot compacts. These plastic-bodied, fixed-lens wonders have taken the photo mass-market by storm by cramming more and more into smaller and smaller packages.    They offer such features as: -Sophisticated programmed autoexposure systems. -Automated built-in flash. Some models even offer intellegent flash systems that automatically compensate for backlighting. -Compatibility with DX-coded films so you don’t have to remember to set the film speed. -Weatherproof (and sometimes even waterproof) bodies. -Tele-wide dual lenses or zoom lenses. More and more point-and-shoot models are offering a combination of autofocus telephoto and wide-angle lenses. -Autowind and autorewind. -Autoloading film. Just open the back and drop in the film casette– a real boon to fumble-fingers.    But do these high-tech handfuls have anything to offer those of us who put image quality before convenience? They do, indeed. From the user’s end, these compact, lightweight cameras are simple but sophisticated and produce images of a suprisingly high quality. Granted the lenses probably won’t beat your SLR’s 50mm lens in a head-to-head test, but they will produce prints and transparencies suitable for all but the most critical uses. And the spontaneity these convenient pocket cameras bring to your on-the-trail picture taking will help ensure memorable images. After all, the real test of a camera is how often you return with pictures, right?     TIPS FOR THE BACKCOUNTRY    All of these microelectronic wonders have one thing in common: a total dependence on batteries. To avoid cold-weather battery lockups, use fresh batteries and keep an extra set in a warm place like an accessible interior pocket. If you plan to do a lot of cold-weather shooting, make sure the camera accepts lithium batteries; they offer considerably improved cold-weather performance over alkaline batteries.    Dual, telephoto, and wide-angle autofocus lens cameras offer the greatest versatility for backcountry use.    If you canoe, kayak, or hike in wet or dusty conditions, consider a weatherproof model; it will resist the entry of dust, grit, condensa- tion, fog, and light rain. If you’re particularly fond of bad weather, take a hard look at the more water- and weather-resistant waterproof cameras.    If you plan to take self-portraits or long exposures, be sure the camera has a self-timer and tripod socket. [DESCRIPTION OF CAMERAS FOLLOWS]: [All are autofocus, with programmed auto metering, autowind, autoload, and autorewind. All weights are without batteries.] [Prices not given]                                                            A-Self timer                                                            B-Tripod socket                                                            C-Weatherproof                                                            D-Waterproof Model     Lens     DX     Flash      Size      Weight   Battery   A  B  C  D Canon   |Zoom XL  |50- | Auto with   6"x3.6"   20.8 oz  two 3v    Y  Y  N  N Sureshot|39mm f3.6|3200| backlight    x2.6"    (590 g)  lithium         |  to     |    | correction         |85mm f7.3|    | Minolta |Dual 35mm|100-| Yes (can    5.8"x3"   14.1 oz  one 6v    N  N  Y  1 Weather-| f3.5 &  |1000| be dis-      x2.6"    (400 g)  lithium matic   |50mm f5.6|    | abled) Dual    |         |    | Nikon   |35mm f2.8|50- | Auto        5.2"x3.2" 17.0 oz  two 1.5v  Y  Y  Y  2 Action  |         |1600|              x2.2"    (482 g)  alkaline* Touch   |         |    | Olympus |Dual 35mm|50- | Auto with   5"x2.5"x  7.9 oz   one 6v    Y  Y  Y  N Infinity|f3.5 &   |3200| backlight     1.8"    (224 g)  lithium Twin    |70mm f6.3|    | correction Pentax  |Super    |25- | Auto with   5.7"x3.3" 24 oz    two 3v    Y  Y  N  N IQZoom  |38mm f4  |3200| backlight     2.6"    (680 g)  lithium 105     |to 105mm |    | correction         | f7.8    |    | Ricoh   |Zoom     |64- | Auto with   5.5"x2.9" 12.7 oz  one 6v    Y  Y  N  N Shot-   |38mm f3.5|3200| backlight    x2.1"    (360 g)  lithium master  | to      |    | correction Zoom    |76mm f6.7|    | Vivitar |35mm f5.6|100-| Auto        4.2"x2"   7 oz     one 3v    Y  Y  N  N AF 1000 |         |1000|              x2.5"    (198 g)  lithium Yashica | Built-in|64- | Auto with   5.1"x2.7" 9.7 oz   one 6v    Y  Y  Y  N   T-3   |CarlZeiss|1600| backlight    x2"      (275 g)  lithium         | 35mm    |    | footnotes: 1- Submersible to 15 feet            2- Submersible to 10 feet            *- No lithium batteries    CARDBOARD AND DISPOSABLE: SINGLE-USE CAMERAS    Have you ever wanted to haul your SLR out in a downpour or expose your point-and-shoot to a 40 mph sandblasting, just to get a few exposures of how well your tent was holding up (and your tentmate wasn’t)? "No way!" you say. "Water, sand, and cameras just don’t mix!" How about letting the kids loose with a lens for a while? "Even worse!" you say. "They’d be back with a bag of broken glass and a few mangled gears."    Now there’s an answer: the new single-use cameras.    These lightweight and inexpensive one-way cameras are constructed of a cardboard box with a plastic interior. They come already loaded with film and produce suprisingly good-quality images with a plastic fixed-focal- length lens and fixed-speed shutter.    Two members of Kodak’s family of single-use cameras are of particular interest to backpackers. They’re each priced under $14.00 [U.S.], weigh around three ounces, and offer features previously available only in expensive specialty cameras.    My favorite is the panoramic Stretch 35. The camera comes with 12 exposures of Kodak Gold 200 and uses a 25mm f12 lens to produce 3.5"-by-10" pictures – twice the width of standard negative.    A great backup for stormy weather is the Weekend 35. This waterproof camera comes with 24 exposures of Kodak Gold 400 and is wrapped in a durable plastic cover that will keep things dry to a depth of 10 feet.    The obvious question in this time of overflowing landfills is why would BACKPACKER plug a throwaway product? "These aren’t throwaways," says Kodak spokesman Mike Sullivan. "It’s a closed loop – the cameras come back for processing." Early this year, Kodak established a program to help photo- finishers recycle 35mm casettes and plastic film canisters, and as we went to press, they were finalizing plans to recycle the plastic interiors of their single-use cameras. "At first, it’s going to cost us more money," admits Sullivan, "but it’s obviously the right thing to do." End of article.

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    With the number of threads recurring on this matter, wouldn’t it have been easier had we had a backpacking cameras FAQ? =20

=09I would like one too! If there is r.b FAQ, I’m ready to give my 2cents for it. =09Tapio V=E4ist=F6

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    With the number of threads recurring on this matter, wouldn’t it have been easier had we had a backpacking cameras FAQ?                                                   Matt Delevoryas

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I am out in the elements a lot and the Pentax IQ-Zoom WR is the best thing out there.  It has all of the features of any other camera and is more or less waterproof (but won’t ‘take’ pictures underwater).  I use it WW kayaking and have had no trouble with it. True, it only goes down to 32mm, but zooms to 90mm and has a remote for doing those still shots where you need a cable. Happy shooting (pictures)! Robb

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I am out in the elements a lot and the Pentax IQ-Zoom WR is the best thing out there.  It has all of the features of any other camera and is more or less waterproof (but won’t ‘take’ pictures underwater).  I use it WW kayaking and have had no trouble with it.

I have this camera as well. It has been submerged both with the power off and with the power on and lens out (a no-no according to the manual and the guy who sold it to me) and is still OK.  Mine has been pretty well abused, and has held up well and takes really good shots for a compact "point and shoot".  I’ve recommended it to a few of my friends and would not hesitate do do so again.

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I own the Olympus IS-100 (European version of the IS-10). It is an perfect camera with a fine lense. I bought an convertor so the zoom range is 28-180mm. You are right it is relatively bulky, but the weight is low. In Europe they now sell a newer version of the IS-100, it has a longer range in time (till 60 sec)

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I am looking for a point-and-shoot camera to take backpacking and trekking.  I

I just purchased one for mountaineering, backpacking and rock climbing.   At that time (last summer) there wasn’t a good waterproof or water resistant camera with the important features all there so don’t be surprised if you can’t get that feature. Look for a zoom that covers pretty wide (say 35 or less) to get those landscapes and greater than 80 (say 100) for zooming in on more distant subjects.  That will narrow selections down quite a bit.  I also required some feature that allows me to bracket or over/underexpose in steps so I can correct for bright backgrounds, etc.  You can’t take decent pictures without that or some monkeying around (sometimes you can fake out the exposure by locking on another scene–yuck what fun).  There are only about two cameras with that capability.  Similarly, the ability to use a fill flash is quite useful. You need a timer so you can jump into the photo.  A camera that beeps or flashes (beep is better) as the timer countsdown helps prevent those shots of you coming back to see if it took the picture yet. The one I got is expensive–Nikon ZoomTouch 800 but it works great. Now, if you asked me what I’d like if I could design my own camera for backpacking… Brian C. Wadell Guided Wave Solutions RF, uW, and Test Hardware and Software (617)-942-WAVE

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– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I am looking for a point-and-shoot camera to take backpacking and trekking.  I have read a lot and looked at several different cameras, but I am still uncertain how to handle the trade-offs among size, weight, weatherproofing, features (such as zoom lenses), and lens quality.  At one end is the minimalist Yashica Super T4 (weatherproof, compact light, excellent lens quality, fixed 35 mm focal length); in the middle is the Minolta Freedom Zoom Explorer (not weatherproof, good lens quality, 28-70 mm zoom, relatively compact); at the other end is the Olympus iS-10 (relatively bulky, 28-110 mm zoom, not weatherproof, LOTS of features).  (I like the idea of having a 28 mm wide-angle focal length available for scenery shots.)  And there are other cameras scattered along this continuum as well, and probably lots that I haven’t even thought of. So… What camera do you use?  What would you recommend?  What have been your experiences?  Any thoughts would be appreciated.  TIA. I’ve used the Yashica  T4 (including Date Stamp feature) for about 3 years on my backpacking trips (about 120 days).  Have found it to be more than adequate for my basic "point-and-shoot" interest.  Would not hesitate to recommend it to any non-hobbyist/professional whose interest is also in a basic "point-and-shoot" camera.

I just bought the new Super Yashica T4 and got my first prints back from an ice climbing trip.  The pictures were equal to the quality from my larger olympus IS3 that also takes great phots.  I was really impressed wither  small size the the T-4; fits in a shirt pocket while climbing. Bob —        Bob Broeking in Montgomery,AL (I am only here 8 months)      " I’ll get the rope…" Anderl Hinterstoisser, North Face of the

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- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I am looking for a point-and-shoot camera to take backpacking and trekking.  I have read a lot and looked at several different cameras, but I am still uncertain how to handle the trade-offs among size, weight, weatherproofing, features (such as zoom lenses), and lens quality.  At one end is the minimalist Yashica Super T4 (weatherproof, compact light, excellent lens quality, fixed 35 mm focal length); in the middle is the Minolta Freedom Zoom Explorer (not weatherproof, good lens quality, 28-70 mm zoom, relatively compact); at the other end is the Olympus iS-10 (relatively bulky, 28-110 mm zoom, not weatherproof, LOTS of features).  (I like the idea of having a 28 mm wide-angle focal length available for scenery shots.)  And there are other cameras scattered along this continuum as well, and probably lots that I haven’t even thought of. So… What camera do you use?  What would you recommend?  What have been your experiences?  Any thoughts would be appreciated.  TIA.

I’ve used the Yashica  T4 (including Date Stamp feature) for about 3 years on my backpacking trips (about 120 days).  Have found it to be more than adequate for my basic "point-and-shoot" interest.  Would not hesitate to recommend it to any non-hobbyist/professional whose interest is also in a basic "point-and-shoot" camera. Previously used a slightly larger/heavier camera with a zoom option. Found that I seldom benefited from use of the zoom and have concluded that it merely added to weight without corresponding benefit. bond  My opinion is neither copyrighted nor trademarked, and it’s  price competitive.  If you like, I’ll trade for one of yours.

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I am looking for a point-and-shoot camera to take backpacking and trekking. So… What camera do you use?  What would you recommend?  What have been your experiences?  Any thoughts would be appreciated.  TIA.

I travelled for half a year through Indonesia and Australia, which are quite moist and hot countries. In Indonesia we have been into the jungle on Sumatra and Irian Jaya. Before we went I asked the same question. Should I bring a very light camera or an waterproof one, etc. I had very good experience with my Canon equipment (AE-1), but I wanted something lighter and auto-focus. I want good quality shots but the journey is more important. I got the newest Canon EOS camera, the EOS-5, together with two lenses from Canon: 28-80 zoom and 75-300 zoom. I also took the flash-light 430EZ, because of the low capacity of the build in one. I also took some filters, of which I used the polarisation-filter most. My camera never failed one moment! It’s now 3 years old and still operating perfectly. The lenses however are a bit of a compromise between weight and functionality. — With kindest regards, Edwin van Ree. Just being happy with my NT powered machine, if not in my Lycoming powered one

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I am looking for a point-and-shoot camera to take backpacking and trekking. snip- So… What camera do you use?  What would you recommend?  What have been your experiences?  Any thoughts would be appreciated.  TIA.

I bought a Pentax 928 (?), their top-of-the-line point-and-shoot.  I really wanted a waterproof/resistant camera, but found most of them limited.  The 928 has a 28-90 zoom; I agree with Steve that anything longer than a 28mm lens is inadequate for "scenery" shots. The 28mm lens requirement eliminates at least half of the point-and-shoots.   Another feature I find critical is over or under exposure capability.  It is a critical feature if you shoot lots of photos in snow (I’m in Idaho).  I bracket alot of shots (i.e., shoot the same shot normally and with an under and over exposure) to increase my odds of getting the shot just right.  The 928 is pretty small and is completely loaded.  As far as toughness; I’ve only had it 9 months, but it’s been fly fishing, skiing, backpacking, etc. and has exceeded my expectations (e.g., doing a face plant with it in my fanny pack while skiing).  My dealer will handle all warranty work, so even if I have a problem, they’ll deal with it and I avoid the hassle.  To fantastic photos….

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I am looking for a point-and-shoot camera to take backpacking and trekking.  I have read a lot and looked at several different cameras, but I am still uncertain how to handle the trade-offs among size, weight, weatherproofing, features (such as zoom lenses), and lens quality.  At one end is the minimalist Yashica Super T4 (weatherproof, compact light, excellent lens quality, fixed 35 mm focal length); in the middle is the Minolta Freedom Zoom Explorer (not weatherproof, good lens quality, 28-70 mm zoom, relatively compact); at the other end is the Olympus iS-10 (relatively bulky, 28-110 mm zoom, not weatherproof, LOTS of features).  (I like the idea of having a 28 mm wide-angle focal length available for scenery shots.)  And there are other cameras scattered along this continuum as well, and probably lots that I haven’t even thought of. So… What camera do you use?  What would you recommend?  What have been your experiences?  Any thoughts would be appreciated.  TIA.

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Question:

[ Article crossposted from rec.outdoors.fishing ] [ Author was David Neils ]  Last July, my wife and I spent a fabulous week at a wilderness  outpost cabin in the heart of British Columbia.  Our hosts were  Rhonda and Duncan Stewart of Stewart’s Lodge and Camps.  This is  a fantastic lodge with access to over 20 lakes and streams from  the main lodge on Nimpo Lake.  They also have several wilderness  outpost locations.  We chose the wilderness outpost location for  our honeymoon.  Everything was perfect.  The rainbows averaged  1-3 pounds and were anxious to devour several well-known flies.  We had the entire lake to ourselves for 4 days.  There were no  trails or roads into this place.  The Stewart’s have erected a  wonderful cabin that is more than comfortable.  We enjoyed  hiking, canoeing, backpacking, and lots of fishing.  I’d like to  go back and catch the huge rainbows in the river locations.  Stewart’s lodge is located near Tweedsmuir Provincial Park.  This  is a beautiful park with plenty of great hiking opportunities.  It reminded me of Glacier Park with one exception…no people.  You virtually have most areas to yourself.  Stewart’s Lodge and Camps is a great place for fisherman and  non-fisherman alike.  I know that we will go back soon.  I’ll be  happy to answer any questions about our experience.  You can also  find out more information at their WWW site:  http://www.on-the-fly.com  Sincerely,    David Neils            3919 Benthaven Drive  Fort Collins, Colorado 80526 — Software Usability Engineer – HP SESD HP E-Mail Mentor Program – Administrator – http://mentor.external.hp.com 3404 East Harmony Rd., Fort Collins, CO 80525 voice: 970-229-4742 fax: 970-229-7734

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:  Last July, my wife and I spent a fabulous week at a wilderness :  outpost cabin in the heart of British Columbia.  Our hosts were :  Rhonda and Duncan Stewart of Stewart’s Lodge and Camps.  This is …stuff deleted You can also call Rhonda or Duncan for a full color brochure/newsletter. This is great reading. Call 1-800-ON-THE-FLY Tell them I sent you.       — Software Usability Engineer – HP SESD HP E-Mail Mentor Program – Administrator – http://mentor.external.hp.com 3404 East Harmony Rd., Fort Collins, CO 80525 voice: 970-229-4742 fax: 970-229-7734

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