In other words, if you’ve made the moral decision to use a nymph, you might as well use all the weight you need to get it where it needs to be.
"the moral decision to use a nymph"??? I always considered it a tactical decision. What is the morality involved here? Should we get Dr. Laura involved? George Adams "From the rockin’ of the cradle to the rollin’ of the hearse, the goin’ up was worth the comin’ down." ___Kris Kristofferson "The Pilgrim/Chapter 33"
"the moral decision to use a nymph"??? I always considered it a tactical decision. What is the morality involved here? Should we get Dr. Laura involved?
Hold on, Forty should be here momentarily… Kevin
In other words, if you’ve made the moral decision to use a nymph, you might as well use all the weight you need to get it where it needs to be. "the moral decision to use a nymph"??? I always considered it a tactical decision. What is the morality involved here? Should we get Dr. Laura involved?
Oh fer cryin’ out loud George, why don’t you tip your nymph with a piece of corn while you’re at it? 
… So the question is: do you or don’t you tie/use weighted nymphs? I’d just as soon toss in a stick of dynamite or a gallon of Clorox as to use a fucking nymph, weighted or unweighted.
That is a red herring. Is the dynamite weighted or unweighted?
If it were me Danl, the answer is no. You will catch fish if you weight your nymphs but what will you use, lead? Not necessary. You can use Zinc or copper if you want but there is a downside. Your nymphs won’t flow along with the current drag free. This is where 99% of all nymph fishermen mess up. Trout are selective under water just as much as they are when coming to dry flies. Drag free drifts is paramount if you’re going to be a savvy and serious nymph fisherman. It’s difficult enough as it is and those who need to use bobbers while fly fishing is testimony to that fact. Lead in a size #22 nymph isn’t going to do you any more good than weight inside a size 14 nymph or wet fly. What you want to always maintain is a natural drift without lead and use nymphs as sparsely dressed as possible. This is one of the reasons I make my own hand tied leaders because I would rather have weight on the knots above the main tippet and I use as much as is necessary to get the knot where the tippet is attached to the taper section, not the nymph itself. I use a minimum of 24 inches of nymphing tippet material between the fly and the first knot. If the weight (I use soft copper wire or zinc) for weight, if needed) and I use Xink on all my nymphs which will put my nymphs right along the same level as my tippet will be. If your nymph is tumbling and turning and flowing along as naturally as possible, the amount of takes you’re going to get will triple compared to anyone who uses weight dragging nymphs. There is a zone of a foot or less right on the bottom of all rivers that is current free. This is where resting fish lay as they watch food go drifting by. As a dry fly rising fish will rise out of the current to take a fly on the surface, nymphing fish often rise from the very bottom to take a nymph passing by in the current. You do not want your nymph ticking along the bottom as most profess you should be doing. You want only the first weighted knot to be ticking along the bottom (every once in a while) and not the hook. The fish that are caught with weighted nymphs are mostly force fed. What I mean by this is the angler happens to be lucky enough to hit the fish almost right in the face. I want to catch trout that are actively feeding on nymphs flowing along with the current because these are the fish that will swing left or right a foot or two. There are feeding stations under water just as there are on the surface for dry fly fishermen. There is a lot more to this than what I have time to write here now, but to answer your question, you don’t need weighted flies as much as you do need more "Drag Free" drifts. George Gehrke Nymphomaniac Fly Fisherman – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Owing to the fact the I lost most of my collection of PT nymphs (to a group of rapscallionous willows, aided and abetted by an army of cattails on steroids and a navy of submerged logs) a couple of weeks ago on the Owens, I need to replenish my supply. At least that’s my excuse for spending hours at the tying bench, busily not doing other chores. So the question is: do you or don’t you tie/use weighted nymphs? Danl That’s the best straight line I can serve up tonight…….
I generally use weighted nymphs, but I prefer to use bead-heads, when practical, to weight them. Bead-head pheasnat tail nymphs are one of my most productive flies.
Mostly because of the "Apex Flash" on the round globe of the bead, not because of the extra weight which is mostly mute in its ability to influence a fishes’ attention Tim. George Gehrke Nymph maniac Fly Fisherman
I’d just as soon toss in a stick of dynamite or a gallon of Clorox as to use a fucking nymph, weighted or unweighted. — Ken Fortenberry
Okay?! So why do you say and feel like this about nymph fishing Ken? George Gehrke "interested"
… So the question is: do you or don’t you tie/use weighted nymphs? I’d just as soon toss in a stick of dynamite or a gallon of Clorox as to use a fucking nymph, weighted or unweighted. That is a red herring. Is the dynamite weighted or unweighted?
that, will you please? jesus! my sides hurt . . .
Seems to me that it really depends on the water you’re fishing. Clearly, an unweighted nymph casts better and makes more elegant presentations, and a heavy nymph is pretty ugly in the air, but if the water is fast and deep it’s hard to get an unweighted fly down near the bottom. I suppose one solution would be to use a sinking line, but in the small streams that I usually fish I’ve never been able to see much value in using it. And I don’t like having to carry a floating line for dries and a sinking line for nymphs. In other words, if you’ve made the moral decision to use a nymph, you might as well use all the weight you need to get it where it needs to be. — Bob Patton
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Owing to the fact the I lost most of my collection of PT nymphs (to a group of rapscallionous willows, aided and abetted by an army of cattails on steroids and a navy of submerged logs) a couple of weeks ago on the Owens, I need to replenish my supply. At least that’s my excuse for spending hours at the tying bench, busily not doing other chores. So the question is: do you or don’t you tie/use weighted nymphs? Danl That’s the best straight line I can serve up tonight…….
… So the question is: do you or don’t you tie/use weighted nymphs? I’d just as soon toss in a stick of dynamite or a gallon of Clorox as to use a fucking nymph, weighted or unweighted.
personally, i like fucking nymphs…… but what the hell ken, whatever floats yer boat <g –waldo
I like to use a heavily weighted Copper John along with an unweighted nymph, or maybe two. The Copper John takes the place of splitshot, but has fish-catching capability. I still haven’t figured out whether it’s better to put the weighted fly on the top or the bottom. Any opinions on that? — visit my web site: http://home.earthlink.net/~royalwulff/
personally, i like fucking nymphs…… but what the hell ken, whatever floats yer boat <g
Past tense, right Walt ? 
— Ken Fortenberry
… So the question is: do you or don’t you tie/use weighted nymphs? I’d just as soon toss in a stick of dynamite or a gallon of Clorox as to use a fucking nymph, weighted or unweighted. personally, i like fucking nymphs……
Weighted or unweighted?
Ken Fortenberry wrote… I’d just as soon toss in a stick of dynamite or a gallon of Clorox as to use a fucking nymph, weighted or unweighted.
Oh you dry fly snob! Joel Axelrad **DFD**
well, if there is really nothing doing on dries, and I can’t spark some action with soft-hackles, sure, I have some weighted nymphs in my boxes. Mostly I’ll go with bead-heads or in some places weighted stone-fly nymphs. I don’t much like casting heavy flies, nor flies with split-shot, but I’ll do what it takes. I tend to fish places where I can get by just fine without resorting to heavy stuff. Eugene – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Owing to the fact the I lost most of my collection of PT nymphs (to a group of rapscallionous willows, aided and abetted by an army of cattails on steroids and a navy of submerged logs) a couple of weeks ago on the Owens, I need to replenish my supply. At least that’s my excuse for spending hours at the tying bench, busily not doing other chores. So the question is: do you or don’t you tie/use weighted nymphs? I seldom weight nymphs and I just don’t like the way beadheads look. (I know they catch fish but……) I prefer weight on the leader to weight on the fly in most situations. The only nymphs that I consistant tie with weight are large stoneflies. Willi
I still haven’t figured out whether it’s better to put the weighted fly on the top or the bottom. Any opinions on that?
I think the unweighted fly "swims" better, more naturally, if it’s on the bottom. The weighted fly serves the same function as a split shot, but lets the other fly drift more or less freely. JR
I still haven’t figured out whether it’s better to put the weighted fly on the top or the bottom. Any opinions on that?
I put the weighted fly on top with the unweighted fly on the bottom (point). Just seems to be a logical arrangement, and I have had success using it. George Adams "From the rockin’ of the cradle to the rollin’ of the hearse, the goin’ up was worth the comin’ down." ___Kris Kristofferson "The Pilgrim/Chapter 33"
Owing to the fact the I lost most of my collection of PT nymphs (to a group of rapscallionous willows, aided and abetted by an army of cattails on steroids and a navy of submerged logs) a couple of weeks ago on the Owens, I need to replenish my supply. At least that’s my excuse for spending hours at the tying bench, busily not doing other chores. So the question is: do you or don’t you tie/use weighted nymphs?
I seldom weight nymphs and I just don’t like the way beadheads look. (I know they catch fish but……) I prefer weight on the leader to weight on the fly in most situations. The only nymphs that I consistant tie with weight are large stoneflies. Willi
… So the question is: do you or don’t you tie/use weighted nymphs? I’d just as soon toss in a stick of dynamite or a gallon of Clorox as to use a fucking nymph, weighted or unweighted.
I would certainly prefer to use dries all the time, but western tailwaters generally require small(sz 20-26) midge larva patterns. Over the past few years I would guess that I use nymphs nearly 85% of the time. This includes dropping a nymph from a dry or using a two nymph rig. Regarding the use of weighed nymphs. I have started to stay away from weighted nymphs. I prefer to use weight directly on the tippet, generally 12 to 18 inches above the point fly. A tailwater guide in Colorado recently pointed out how weighted nymphs simply don’t float naturally through the water column and he always uses unweighted nymphs. He also pointed out how BH patterns generally don’t look realistic and more often than not many BH(bead heads) are too big for the hook size. Especially when dealing with sz 24 midge patterns! For weight, I use that green coated stuff from England. Can’t think of the name right now…. — remove all x’s for reply email. To worry is folly so let us be jolly.
I do indeed tie weighted nymphs. I use a red thread head on my weighted ones to indicate the difference from non-weighted. I find arsenic-core lead solder to be a good weighting material as I don’t even have to use a priest, not that I ever would. I do like the feel of those apache or golden trout flopping around in the creel, so some times I use the unweighted flies with the black-thread or beadheads. By the way, for all those folk looking for a replacement for Gink, got an old transformer sitting out in the back yard and the liquid in that is great. Keeps a fly floating forever. I can ship a quart or two to anyone that needs it. Might not want to hold your floatant bottle in your teeth, though. Oh, by the way, for all you pissy C&R folks, I do practice it. I got a latch on the bottom of the creel that lets me empty that sucker real quick if I see a ranger. All he’ll find in there is a digital camera and an invite to the Elks Club Fly Tie. Danl, I’ve gotten away from lead wire sinking nymphs and have found the ease of use of bead heads. If I need to sink a nymph without a bead, I have found that the split-shot works great. — Frank Reid Reverse email to reply.
… So the question is: do you or don’t you tie/use weighted nymphs?
I’d just as soon toss in a stick of dynamite or a gallon of Clorox as to use a fucking nymph, weighted or unweighted. — Ken Fortenberry
So the question is: do you or don’t you tie/use weighted nymphs? That’s the best straight line I can serve up tonight…….
Keeps the ball rolling anyway. The only weight I’ll add to a PT is a copper beadhead, a small one (3/32" for #14, 5/64" for #16, nothing on smaller sizes). I like a slim silhouette on PTs and think wrapping weight on the shank ruins that. The flies I most often weight (other than winter steelhead flies) are woolly buggers. I’ll also weight Prince and stonefly nymphs, which I frequently fish together with a smaller unweighted fly on a dropper. JR
8< . So the question is: do you or don’t you tie/use weighted nymphs?
yes. –waldo
I generally use weighted nymphs, but I prefer to use bead-heads, when practical, to weight them. Bead-head pheasnat tail nymphs are one of my most productive flies. Tim Lysyk
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Owing to the fact the I lost most of my collection of PT nymphs (to a group of rapscallionous willows, aided and abetted by an army of cattails on steroids and a navy of submerged logs) a couple of weeks ago on the Owens, I need to replenish my supply. At least that’s my excuse for spending hours at the tying bench, busily not doing other chores. So the question is: do you or don’t you tie/use weighted nymphs? Danl That’s the best straight line I can serve up tonight…….
Owing to the fact the I lost most of my collection of PT nymphs (to a group of rapscallionous willows, aided and abetted by an army of cattails on steroids and a navy of submerged logs) a couple of weeks ago on the Owens, I need to replenish my supply. At least that’s my excuse for spending hours at the tying bench, busily not doing other chores. So the question is: do you or don’t you tie/use weighted nymphs? Danl That’s the best straight line I can serve up tonight…….
Tim – I got a 9 ft #4 Stealth and love it. I compare it to the original Scott in the same size (also have the 8′6", 8′ and 6′10" in graphite, and the 7′6" in glass), as well as Fenwick Iron Feather, BoronX and AVF in same size, as well as assorted others. Very fluid action at a variety of fishing distances, good tracking, holds fish well. tl les
I see in Fly Fisherman February 2002 that this rod comes with two tips instead of a lifetime warranty…hmmm…not sure what to make of that. Padishar Creel — Wishing the Master of fly fishing, Mr. LaFontaine the best of luck in his battle with ALS…
Any one get one of these Gary Lafontaine stealth rods..if so what did ya think..just curious, as usual. Thanks — Tim Apple
I posted in too much haste, I was just too excited about his possibilities. I am afraid I was too insulting. I did not mean to imply that he wasn’t already famous. I will use it no matter what he calls it although I would have to think about it if it was "Missed-Bass Knot". I have too many reminders of that now. AL
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Yeah, Al, but who’s going to want to tie a lure on with a knot called "Missed-a-Bass knot?" :-)) Shawn, you gotta use your real name on this if you want to become famous. Warren1 Here’s your chance to become famous! Heck, just reading your note I can see some possiblities. AL "Missed-a-Bass" wrote I came up with my own version of the Pitzen, just ’cause I’m a putz [PUTZIE] and couldn’t remember what snip So what is my modified Pitzen called? It holds up wonderfully…I couldn’t have thought this up myself…where’s Rodney when you need him! Shawn [SHAWNNY] snip
It’s all good AL. I can take it…been there, done that. — Early to Bed, Early to Rise… Fish all Day, Make up Lies. Shawn
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I posted in too much haste, I was just too excited about his possibilities. I am afraid I was too insulting. I did not mean to imply that he wasn’t already famous. I will use it no matter what he calls it although I would have to think about it if it was "Missed-Bass Knot". I have too many reminders of that now. AL Yeah, Al, but who’s going to want to tie a lure on with a knot called "Missed-a-Bass knot?" :-)) Shawn, you gotta use your real name on this if you want to become famous. Warren1 Here’s your chance to become famous! Heck, just reading your note I can see some possiblities. AL "Missed-a-Bass" wrote I came up with my own version of the Pitzen, just ’cause I’m a putz [PUTZIE] and couldn’t remember what snip So what is my modified Pitzen called? It holds up wonderfully…I couldn’t have thought this up myself…where’s Rodney when you need him! Shawn [SHAWNNY] snip
You’ve got a point there ol’ W1 but maybe I should take this opportunity to explain my screen name. I’m always taking the brunt of fishing jokes/tales, yet those that mock me ask advice. Hence "Missed-A-Bass" (say it fast 3 times.. sounds like Mr. Bass don’t ya think?) I think that’s called an Al-go-rhythm. LMAO! — Early to Bed, Early to Rise… Fish all Day, Make up Lies. Shawn
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Yeah, Al, but who’s going to want to tie a lure on with a knot called "Missed-a-Bass knot?" :-)) Shawn, you gotta use your real name on this if you want to become famous. Warren1 Here’s your chance to become famous! Heck, just reading your note I can see some possiblities. AL "Missed-a-Bass" wrote I came up with my own version of the Pitzen, just ’cause I’m a putz [PUTZIE] and couldn’t remember what snip So what is my modified Pitzen called? It holds up wonderfully…I couldn’t have thought this up myself…where’s Rodney when you need him! Shawn [SHAWNNY] snip
Here’s your chance to become famous! Heck, just reading your note I can see some possiblities. AL "Missed-a-Bass" wrote I came up with my own version of the Pitzen, just ’cause I’m a putz
[PUTZIE] and couldn’t remember what snip So what is my modified Pitzen called? It holds up wonderfully…I couldn’t have thought this up myself…where’s Rodney when you need him! Shawn [SHAWNNY]
snip
Yeah, Al, but who’s going to want to tie a lure on with a knot called "Missed-a-Bass knot?" :-)) Shawn, you gotta use your real name on this if you want to become famous. Warren1
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Here’s your chance to become famous! Heck, just reading your note I can see some possiblities. AL "Missed-a-Bass" wrote I came up with my own version of the Pitzen, just ’cause I’m a putz [PUTZIE] and couldn’t remember what snip So what is my modified Pitzen called? It holds up wonderfully…I couldn’t have thought this up myself…where’s Rodney when you need him! Shawn [SHAWNNY] snip
If you want to do more "research’ [Bob, you will find your description given there by one of the posters] on this go to: http://www.sport-fish-info.com/wwwboard/messages/9012.html One thing you will find they are as confused as we can become on this board. I suspect it is as CA Bill states it is currently called San Diego Knot when it is doubled but it is still in my opinion a variance of a Pitzen Knot which no one on that board seems to have a hint of either. I am sorry I can’t find my notes on the history of this knot but Pitzen was a long ago German fisher that the credit I saw was given to him for devising this knot. The variations of this knot are used by Tuna fishers on the West Coast, for one, and they are well convinced that this is basically a good, reliable, and strong knot, no matter the variance in tying it. If I ever find my ‘brain’ for the history of the Pitzen Knot I will post, but don’t hold your breath. I also use a loop knot as a companion to the Pitzen Knot because I remove or do not use split rings for attaching line to lure. I use the Buffer Loop Knot for quick and easy tie of a Loop or for confidence I use the Rapala Loop, however, I have made mistakes tying the Rapala Loop and the lure came loose. Hence, the trade off in getting too complicated in knot tying techniques. AL
Al, after thinking about it a few minutes and looking at the link Shawn provided [a link to Pitzen Knot, AL] I realized you are right. Might dub
it the double Pitzen knot, – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – until Tony claims the right to name it himself. snip
Al, after thinking about it a few minutes and looking at the link Shawn provided, I realized you are right. Might dub it the double Pitzen knot, until Tony claims the right to name it himself. Have never had one break off, unless I forgot to retie between trips and the line had deteriorated. Because of the doubled line and its cinching power, it slips less than any other knot I have used on spinnerbaits. — Go Fishing. And may your fish be as big as your tales. Columbia, SC Lake Murray
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Bob, I understood your description. I like the feature that the doubled eye line is incorporated into the knot and the standing line. Might be easier to understand for those familiar with tying the Pitzen Knot which is what I use. Jamie, The Pitzen Knot strength is allegedly close to a 100% line strength. AL .snip I have tried to explain his knot, but it apparently is not clear, and I have the graphic skills of a snail. I think I’ll try out the Pitzen next, and check out the Uni for loop knots.
the Pitzen Knot I will post, but don’t hold your breath.
OK, Overcame my tunnel vision, Jamie probably saw this! It is at the bottom of the sites description that he posted. "The Pitzen knot, Invented by Edgar Pitzenbauer of Germany is easy to tie with a little practice, and results in a knot the [sic] retains 95-100% of the tippet’s rated strength as opposed to 65% for a Clinch knot. The Pitzen knot is also smaller by about 40%" AL
Ya know it’s a funny thing….while driving today I was thinking of the Pitzen knot. Back 2-3 years ago when I was learning to tie fishing knots I came up with my own version of the Pitzen, just ’cause I’m a putz and couldn’t remember what the heck I was doing. The only difference is I would run the tag through the hook eye one more time, just before threading it through the original loop, then snug it up. Once I learned the Palomar I forgot everything else. So what is my modified Pitzen called? It holds up wonderfully…I couldn’t have thought this up myself…where’s Rodney when you need him! — Early to Bed, Early to Rise… Fish all Day, Make up Lies. Shawn
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Al, after thinking about it a few minutes and looking at the link Shawn provided, I realized you are right. Might dub it the double Pitzen knot, until Tony claims the right to name it himself. Have never had one break off, unless I forgot to retie between trips and the line had deteriorated. Because of the doubled line and its cinching power, it slips less than any other knot I have used on spinnerbaits. — Go Fishing. And may your fish be as big as your tales. Columbia, SC Lake Murray Bob, I understood your description. I like the feature that the doubled eye line is incorporated into the knot and the standing line. Might be easier to understand for those familiar with tying the Pitzen Knot which is what I use. Jamie, The Pitzen Knot strength is allegedly close to a 100% line strength. AL .snip I have tried to explain his knot, but it apparently is not clear, and I have the graphic skills of a snail. I think I’ll try out the Pitzen next, and check out the Uni for loop knots.
The San Diego knot is similar, but you run the line through the loop by the eye first, before the one at the top. Bill
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – And for those of you who would like to see the Pitzen knot, try this… www.agron.missouri.edu/flyfishing/pitzen.html — Early to Bed, Early to Rise… Fish all Day, Make up Lies. Shawn Bob, I understood your description. I like the feature that the doubled eye line is incorporated into the knot and the standing line. Might be easier to understand for those familiar with tying the Pitzen Knot which is what I use. Jamie, The Pitzen Knot strength is allegedly close to a 100% line strength. AL .snip I have tried to explain his knot, but it apparently is not clear, and I have the graphic skills of a snail. I think I’ll try out the Pitzen next, and check out the Uni for loop knots.
Bob, I understood your description. I like the feature that the doubled eye line is incorporated into the knot and the standing line. Might be easier to understand for those familiar with tying the Pitzen Knot which is what I use. Jamie, The Pitzen Knot strength is allegedly close to a 100% line strength. AL
.snip I have tried to explain his knot, but it apparently is not clear, and I have the graphic skills of a snail. I think I’ll try out the Pitzen next, and check out the Uni for loop
knots.
And for those of you who would like to see the Pitzen knot, try this… www.agron.missouri.edu/flyfishing/pitzen.html — Early to Bed, Early to Rise… Fish all Day, Make up Lies. Shawn
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Bob, I understood your description. I like the feature that the doubled eye line is incorporated into the knot and the standing line. Might be easier to understand for those familiar with tying the Pitzen Knot which is what I use. Jamie, The Pitzen Knot strength is allegedly close to a 100% line strength. AL .snip I have tried to explain his knot, but it apparently is not clear, and I have the graphic skills of a snail. I think I’ll try out the Pitzen next, and check out the Uni for loop knots.
I was just reading the knot thread from mid-March, and I’ve got some more questions. I wanted to know if there’s a resource that has some real statistics on breaking strength of different knots (and also considerations as to their appropriateness with different # test monos). Also, I conducted a little experiment with knot comparisons: I had two key-ring sized split-rings, and I tied two different knots on each side (8# test). I yanked them apart until something gave. I only compared the Trilene, Palomar, Improved Clinch, and Rapala (loop). My informal (and unrecorded) findings of order of strength, highest to lowest. *Trilene *Palomar (usually was beaten by the Trilene) *Improved Clinch (pretty low breaking strength) *Rapala (very low breaking strengh, ughh.. it’s what I’ve been using on jerkbaits, topwaters, etc.) I think I’ll try out the Pitzen next, and check out the Uni for loop knots. ALSO, I regularly hit the search engines, and ask the group, about once every two months: Does anyone have a picture of how to tie the Jimmy Houston Knot (supposed to be very close to 100% knot strength)? (Hint: the picture in "Caught Me a Big ‘Un…" is incomplete, so please don’t tell me to look there, unless you can tell me the missing step). Thanks a bunch, Jamie
Jamie, the short answer is all line manufacturers have a machine to test their lines with different knots. From this, you would assume that they recommend knots that work best with their line. Just haven’t seen a line manufacturer mention Tony Bean’s knot, which is the strongest knot I have used. Help me here, TNBass, after you get back from the TN Classic. Tony is a Tennessee small-mouth guide and is reputed to have won many tournaments. Do you know how to contact him? I have tried to explain his knot, but it apparently is not clear, and I have the graphic skills of a snail. — Go Fishing. And may your fish be as big as your tales. Columbia, SC Lake Murray
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I was just reading the knot thread from mid-March, and I’ve got some more questions. I wanted to know if there’s a resource that has some real statistics on breaking strength of different knots (and also considerations as to their appropriateness with different # test monos). Also, I conducted a little experiment with knot comparisons: I had two key-ring sized split-rings, and I tied two different knots on each side (8# test). I yanked them apart until something gave. I only compared the Trilene, Palomar, Improved Clinch, and Rapala (loop). My informal (and unrecorded) findings of order of strength, highest to lowest. *Trilene *Palomar (usually was beaten by the Trilene) *Improved Clinch (pretty low breaking strength) *Rapala (very low breaking strengh, ughh.. it’s what I’ve been using on jerkbaits, topwaters, etc.) I think I’ll try out the Pitzen next, and check out the Uni for loop knots. ALSO, I regularly hit the search engines, and ask the group, about once every two months: Does anyone have a picture of how to tie the Jimmy Houston Knot (supposed to be very close to 100% knot strength)? (Hint: the picture in "Caught Me a Big ‘Un…" is incomplete, so please don’t tell me to look there, unless you can tell me the missing step). Thanks a bunch, Jamie
Early this year I had the opportunity to test Loomis rods I was impressed by the GLX and the GL3. Was seriously considering buying a Loomis until I discovered there guarantee policy. I then tested Sage and Orvis rods. My preference goes to the Sage VPS 7w 9 ft. (medium-fast action). This rod will be used for brook and brown trout, landlocked salmon and bass. My fly fishing is in rivers and lakes with nymphs, streamers, wet flies, bass bugs and dry flies. I am now using a Fenwick HMG 7w 8.6 ft for the same job. For windy conditions, heavy nymphs or for long distance casts this rod is lacks some strength or power. I would like to have your opinions and comments on the Sage VPS rod and/or on the end use.
Sage says the materials and action of their VPS series are the same as their old RPL rods (although the VPSs are now much cheaper, since they’re no longer "state of the art"). I have a 7wt 9ft RPL for steelhead and a 5wt 8.5ft RPL for trout. They’re the best rods I’ve ever owned. Assuming you prefer a medium-fast action–rather than the super fast actions being pushed by makers these days–you couldn’t do better than the VPS. Have fun with it. JR
Do you know good river like Big Horn? I came from Italy to USA in August for flyfishing holiday. My trip start in Oregon for Wyoming and go-back. I know only the Umpqua and the Deschutes, the Big Horn and Shoshone Ok for C&R. Thank you for informations Giovanni Bartolozzi Il Martin Pescatore Mosca Club
I live in Bend, Oregon. I can help you with lots of questions on fly fishing in Central Oregon. I mostly do stillwater fishing. But can get answers to any questions you might have. chow gjbend
Will be in bend 1st week of April. Do you think davis Lake will be accessable and is a float tube adequate?
I think thats what the rumor is that Davis wood be accessable April 1. I have my doubts tho. I fished Fall River Tues. and the parking lot still has 2 feet of snow and had to park on the hwy. Fall River and Crooked might be an option. Actually, Chickahomany(sp) should be thawed and ready too. Good luck.
Geeez….would not wood. Saw that as I sent. :(
How was fall river, BWO’s?
If the weathers keeps warm you might try BWO. I used a #20 black midge with cdc wing that worked great. The fish were lightly nibbleing at the surface so just drifted fly about 2 inches below the surface. If you have ever fished there you know what its like to watch the fish suck up your fly.
My vet says dogs are just as susceptible to sun burn and sun or heat stroke and dehydration as humans and this has discouraged me from persuading my dog to come paddling. Her attitude to water is like your Sheltie’s so it’s been easy. But I’ve often wondered how paddlers, trippers and fishers especially, who may be out on the water in the blazing sun for hours under their Tilley hats, protect their dogs from that blazing sun. I think I’d be almost as worried about this as the PFD and recovery after capsize things. Any opinions, experience here? Lyle Fairfield – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I have a tandem opened kayak that i usually paddle solo. Do lots of touring and lake fishing. My new partner is a redhead, fairly short hair, and her name is Maggie. She loves to go fishing, and i have a hard time keeping her in the boat. She is about 12 years old in people years, and is a border collie/Chow mix. My other pooch, a sheltie, hates and is deathly afraid of water; i only took her out once. Just when i was trying to justify a smaller boat, a Necky Santa Cruz, this happens. Now i gotta go buy a Doggie PFD, and maybe a Doggie backpack. Sheese, i wonder what it’ll be like trying to get a water-laiden dog back in the boat…. I best try this out in the shallows.
My vet says dogs are just as susceptible to sun burn and sun or heat stroke and dehydration as humans and this has discouraged me from persuading my dog to come paddling. Her attitude to water is like your Sheltie’s so it’s been easy. But I’ve often wondered how paddlers, trippers and fishers especially, who may be out on the water in the blazing sun for hours under their Tilley hats, protect their dogs from that blazing sun. I think I’d be almost as worried about this as the PFD and recovery after capsize things. Any opinions, experience here?
She just had her first vet check-up today. She is A-Okay, and more like 18 years old, in people terms. I asked him about bringing her out in the kayak for several hours on end. He said he knows some people who bring their dogs out boating. He stated i needed to be prepared to supply her with more drinking water than myself, and with a coat like hers, sunburn isn’t a problem. I was overjoyed. He also reccommended trying out a harness for her while in the boat, since it’ll be easier to get her back in the boat if she jumps ship. She’s about 45 pounds.
I have a tandem opened kayak that i usually paddle solo. Do lots of touring and lake fishing. My new partner is a redhead, fairly short hair, and her name is Maggie. She loves to go fishing, and i have a hard time
This time out she didn’t fair so well, unfortunately. I’ve had a couple folks email me and ask me questions, and give good advice. So for anyone who’s considering this for the first time, read on. Since i wanted her in the front of the boat and me in the rear, i had her on a leash that was attached to the boat. I made sure the leash was long enough so if she went swimming, i could grab her Doggie PFD’s handle. Well, that’s where i screwed up. It ends up her four-foot long leash isn’t nearly long enough so when she went swimming, i couldn’t reach her from the back of the boat. It was pathetic and she was upset. After a minute or so i did manage to get her back in. On the good side, she did enjoy the ducks and watching the Osprey go fishing; addtionnally, each fly or ’skeeter perked her right up as well! She’d climb on the bow looking just like a hood ornament, or one of them bow ornament-things on large ships. That was until she freaked and just had to get outta the boat. Though i don’t think she’s spoiled on the idea just yet. Next time we’ll either have no leash, or a much longer one, and it’ll be attached to her PFD and not otherwise. That handle on her PFD is truely a great idea too.
I have a tandem opened kayak that i usually paddle solo. Do lots of touring and lake fishing. My new partner is a redhead, fairly short hair, and her name is Maggie. She loves to go fishing, and i have a hard time keeping her in the boat. She is about 12 years old in people years, and is a border collie/Chow mix. My other pooch, a sheltie, hates and is deathly afraid of water; i only took her out once. Just when i was trying to justify a smaller boat, a Necky Santa Cruz, this happens. Now i gotta go buy a Doggie PFD, and maybe a Doggie backpack. Sheese, i wonder what it’ll be like trying to get a water-laiden dog back in the boat…. I best try this out in the shallows.
You may want to try some attractant, it may or may not actually attract them but the confidence boost can do wonders. Try some beef liver cut into strips, it stays on the hook better. If you own a pair of binoculars use them. Most of all have fun and don’t give up! I promise fish will come, I saw (on TV) a trout hit a trolled plastic Batman action figure and your using better bait then that. Chris www.geocities.com/Yosemite/Rapids/4724/
Last summer my kids used gummy worms at my father-in-law’s farm pond, and caught a couple of catfish and a largemouth. It was a very hot day though, and before long, the rest of the worms had melted into one big glob :-(
.ONE LAST THING …SCENT OF YOUR HANDS HEAVY SMOKING,GREASE ,OIL WILL DETER A FISH FROM BITING,ANY LURE MOST OF THE TIME .. Just to add to the last angler’s comments…….Never wash your hands with soap…..If you have to, use some Berkeley Erase and put on your hands. Good fishin’ Garry
You may want to try some attractant, it may or may not actually attract them but the confidence boost can do wonders. Try some beef liver cut into strips, it stays on the hook better. If you own a pair of binoculars use them. Most of all have fun and don’t give up! I promise fish will come, I saw (on TV) a trout hit a trolled plastic Batman action figure and your using better bait then that. Chris www.geocities.com/Yosemite/Rapids/4724/
Try livebait, if you don’t catch something soon, change body of water; experiment!… Take your time and observe what’s going on around you [and definitely, READ].
Some basic rules : Use purple or Grape colored 6in. plastic Throw in rock piles & heavy brush near shoreline off the main channel move plastics about 6_12 in. at a time in slow or fast jerks. Always pause for a moment between jerks. thats when you watch the line for twitches . At this point set the hook as hard as you can. try this.
T I M E…YOU JUST HAVE TO PUT YOUR TIME IN…..AND AS FAR AS YOUR NEIGHBORS GO…TELL THEM YOUR A CATCH AND RELEASE TYPE OF GUY…CONSERVATION…..YOU WANT YOUR CHILDRENS CHILDREN TO CATCH FISH ON CATCHING SOME FISH ,START FISHING AROUND OTHER PEOPLE,WATCH WHAT THEY DO!!!!!!! HOW THEY CAST,BAIT ,RIG THEIR POLES….TALK TO OTHER PEOPLE LURE,SLOW,FAST,BROKEN RETREIVE) DONT BE AFRAID TO ASK QUESTIONS…GO TO A COUNTY LIBRARY…READ….ORRENT A MOVIE…THEY SHOULD HAVE INSTRUCTIONAL VIDEO’S ON ALL TYPES OF FISHING….ONE LAST THING …SCENT OF YOUR HANDS HEAVY SMOKING,GREASE ,OIL WILL DETER A FISH FROM BITING,ANY LURE MOST OF THE TIME …I HOPE THAT WILL BRIGHTEN YOUR
Suggest you try Lafayette Reservoir during the winter months for trout. Use four pound test, with a small slip sinker, that ends at a snap swivel; a leader of 18" to 24" with a snap swivel on one side and a size 14 or 16 gold treble hook on the other; baited with rainbow, flourescent orange, yellow or green power bait. Take a row boat to the East Cove in the morning before the sun hits the water. Cast and let it settle to the bottom – wait. This is a great way to catch stockers up to 5 lbs. It is what I usually do when the Sierra is in a cold freeze until the rivers are open for flyfishing. Wear WARM CLOTHES. Tight lines. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – i love to fish. the problem is, i don’t know how. i usally fish the stocked lakes here in the san francisco-east bay because it’s the only type of fishing that my work schedule will allow me to do.i fish for bass, trout,and catfish.i use a bigger seperate pole for the cats, using chicken livers, while throwing spinners and plastic worms for bass , and power bait for trout, but i never catch any fish. maybe i need rigging skills, i don’t know, but my nieghbors always see me leave with poles and come home with no fish, but it’s even more embarassing when i take some of the son’s of my wifes friends, (or even worse) my own 5 year old daughter who only likes to go when we catch fish. please help cakeman300
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i love to fish. the problem is, i don’t know how. i usally fish the stocked lakes here in the san francisco-east bay because it’s the only type of fishing that my work schedule will allow me to do.i fish for bass, trout,and catfish.i use a bigger seperate pole for the cats, using chicken livers, while throwing spinners and plastic worms for bass , and power bait for trout, but i never catch any fish. maybe i need rigging skills, i don’t know, but my nieghbors always see me leave with poles and come home with no fish, but it’s even more embarassing when i take some of the son’s of my wifes friends, (or even worse) my own 5 year old daughter who only likes to go when we catch fish. please help cakeman300
.ONE LAST THING …SCENT OF YOUR HANDS HEAVY SMOKING,GREASE ,OIL WILL DETER A FISH FROM BITING,ANY LURE MOST OF THE TIME ..
Just to add to the last angler’s comments…….Never wash your hands with soap…..If you have to, use some Berkeley Erase and put on your hands. Good fishin’ Garry
I’d say Chris covered the best basics, and I’d like to add this cause it happened to me when I started fishing years ago. Do not,I repeat, do not sit around all day Saturdays watching Dance, Houston, Winkleman, Orlando, Lindner,etc , because you’ll wind up tossing 2oz.spinnerbaits, porko fanbelts, carolina rigs, pop-r’s and rattletraps tied to 50 lb spiderwire on some big ass 7 foot pole. Your on a "shit" streak,so rig light line no bigger than 6lbs. for a while. Remember that plastic worms are still on record as catching more bass in more situations than any other lure including live worms. When you are absolutely sure you are fishing too slow, …. SLOW DOWN some more! "Do sumpin" lures often do something all right .. they keep you casting and retrieving so much,a fish would need a rocketpac just to catch the ‘ damn things! hope this helps ..Saint *Z* ~ The Saint
ZAKANY wrote Since your lawn is new, I would caution against using any weed killer on it this year, or early next year. New lawns usually look poor the first year. For crabgrass, I prefer using a pre-emergent. Thus, I would have you wait to address the crabgrass for two years. Broadleaf weeds, however, can be taken care of about one year from now. Until then, water, overseed, and fertilize your grass/weed mixture.
I agree, especially on the point of giving a new lawn time to establish. Crab grass really don’t compete that much with a lawn–new or old. It comes from a problem or condition (such as being new) with the lawn itself. Occasionally, dry spots that develop in spring will be filled with crab grass by late summer. Yet, the next year, with more rain or better watering, the same spots will have no crab grass problems at all. I have never even bothered with a pre-emergent. Naturally, crab grass pops up here and there but it never takes over provided I have given the lawn reasonable care in the spring and early summer. Also, seeding new lawns in the fall is a good way of minimizing most any weed problems. -Paul
Keep on watering and mowing very regularly (and deeply on the watering.). Put out some fresh grass seed just before watering if you remember it. The lawn grass will outgrow the crabgrass and it’ll all look great in about a year, maybe two at most. If you can handle it, mow every 5 days, whether it looks as if it needs it or not. Most people seem to mow once a week, because it’s an easy way to remember when to do it, but 5 days is the best. Even on a weekly mowing schedule, it’ll still look good way sooner than you’d think possible. Try to water once a week for about 6 to 8 hours at a time. Helps the grasses put their roots way down and keeps them surviving hot and dry times. Don’t bother to pull the crabgrass. For one thing, it’s helping hold the soil until the regular grasses can take over their rightful place. I tilled my entire front lawn early spring and planted URI #1 grass seed. I now have 65% crab grass and 10% weed and the rest lawn. I need an inexpensive way to deal with this crab grass. I am ready to give up on this whole lawn thing and just put crushed stone or something… I live in RI (New England). Please help. -Joe —– To reply by e-mail, remove the "XXX" from the above e-mail address.
"If I die of curiosity, who will entertain you with naive questions?" I only answer my mail on an average of once every two months. Be patient. http://www.visi.com/~cyli/
<<<I tilled my entire front lawn early spring and planted URI #1 grass seed. << Crab grass seed is pervasive but doesn’t germinate easily under mulch or a healthy lawn. In lawn you can stop most weed germination by applying a preemergent such as HALTS in the spring or kill adult (younger is better) crabgrass by spraying with a selective "Crabgrass Killer" product that won’t harm most other grasses. Since your lawn is new, I would caution against using any weed killer on it this year, or early next year. New lawns usually look poor the first year. For crabgrass, I prefer using a pre-emergent. Thus, I would have you wait to address the crabgrass for two years. Broadleaf weeds, however, can be taken care of about one year from now. Until then, water, overseed, and fertilize your grass/weed mixture. Mistakes are the Portals to Discovery…and Ridicule
I tilled my entire front lawn early spring and planted URI #1 grass seed. I now have 65% crab grass and 10% weed and the rest lawn. I need an inexpensive way to deal with this crab grass. I am ready to give up on this whole lawn thing and just put crushed stone or something… I live in RI (New England).
Crab grass seed is pervasive but doesn’t germinate easily under mulch or a healthy lawn. In lawn you can stop most weed germination by applying a preemergent such as HALTS in the spring or kill adult (younger is better) crabgrass by spraying with a selective "Crabgrass Killer" product that won’t harm most other grasses. — Lloyd Fortney http://www.phy.duke.edu/~fortney/ has links to my garden, flower, flyfishing, and travel JPEG images as well as teaching, research, and stuff like that
I tilled my entire front lawn early spring and planted URI #1 grass seed. I now have 65% crab grass and 10% weed and the rest lawn. I need an inexpensive way to deal with this crab grass. I am ready to give up on this whole lawn thing and just put crushed stone or something… I live in RI (New England). Please help. -Joe —– To reply by e-mail, remove the "XXX" from the above e-mail address.
I tilled my entire front lawn early spring and planted URI #1 grass seed. I now have 65% crab grass and 10% weed and the rest lawn. I need an inexpensive way to deal with this crab grass. I am ready to give up on this whole lawn thing and just put crushed stone or something… I live in RI (New England). Please help. -Joe
Joe, I hate to have you go through all of that work again, but this would be my suggestion. Till up the "lawn" again. Then water it very good. Let the weeds and crabgrass grow for a week or two, then till again. Water heavily and let it grow for another week or two. Then till again. I would suggest repeating this process until late august/early september when the temperatures start to break. The idea is to bring up as many of the weed seeds as possible, let them germinate and then kill them by tilling them up. If the area is small you might even want to try soil solorization seperately or in conjunction with the tilling. Just lay down clear plastic sheeting over the area that was tilled and/or watered heavily. The high heat and moisture under the sheeting will help the weed seeds germinate more quickly and then will burn them out with the intense heat and sunlight. This is really only good if you are going to have some nice sunny, warm weather in the near future. A day or so after the last tilling rake out all of the dead stuff that you can get out. You may wish to do this after every tilling before watering again, but it will probably depend upon how much time you have. Once you have raked out all of the debris possible, grade the lawn and reseed with a good disease resistant grass seed mix (try to find a hybrid name not a common grass seed). Use Kentucky Bluegrass and/or Perennial Rye for sunny areas and Fine Fescue for shaded areas. You may want to topdress the lawn with some good topsoil and then fertilizer with a good organic fertilizer. I use a liquid seaweed and fish emulsion mix which is good as a foliar feed or as a soil prep. Keep the grass watered well for the next couple of weeks. Make sure that the soil is moist most of the time, but no puddles. Once the lawn begins to establish itself (after a few weeks), begin watering more deeply and less often. This will encourage deeper root growth which will help the plant withstand the first frosts. In the spring cut your lawn once before it even turns green. Just take off the very tips of the blades. Then wait until the lawn is of regular mowing height before cutting again. This will encourage an early start and will help you beat the weeds. Mow the lawn long (about 2 1/2 to 3 inches). This will help shade the ground and keep many weed seeds from germinating in the first place. Then make sure to bag your lawn clippings when any weeds that may pop up begin to go to seed. This will prevent these seeds from being a nuisance later. I recommend overseeding the lawn each fall for a few years. This, along with organic mowing methods described above and a good organic fertilizer program will eventually crowd out your weeds and provide for a nice, thick turf. Regards, Michael Kaufman Organic Lawncare Specialist <http://home.sprynet.com/sprynet/klawncare/welcome.htm "Organic Fertilizer and Other Products / ‘FREE’ Organic Lawncare Tips"
I tilled my entire front lawn early spring and planted URI #1 grass seed. I now have 65% crab grass and 10% weed and the rest lawn. I need an inexpensive way to deal with this crab grass. I am ready to give up on this whole lawn thing and just put crushed stone or something… I live in RI (New England). Please help. -Joe —– To reply by e-mail, remove the "XXX" from the above e-mail address.
Hi Joe. I’d suggest you contact the U of RI Cooperative Extension office nearest you. Try to get their publication(s) on turf grasses. They should have them–most states do. Then follow directions, consulting an extension agent if necessary. They are very helpful ordinarily. John Reiner
Hi I live in Malaysia (Kuala Lumpur) and I would really like to go somewhere and do some fly fishing in Malaysia. The problem is that I have not been able to find anything about fly fishing here. It seems like this sport has not arrived here yet. Is there anyone out there who can help me on this. I started fly fishing in Sweden, but moved to Malaysia before I really got the hang of it. So I do need to get starting again. Also, is there a shop where I can buy stuff for tying my own flies here? Thanks for any replies /Bengt Thur
Hi Guys. I’m slowly getting into fly fishing and wondering about waders. I only know about Orvis products and the other stuff from Wal-Mart. What other brands are there and not wanting to pay just for the name, what’s the best value for the money. As you know, the most expensive is not necessarily the best value.
I like my Hodgman breathable waders. I’ve fished hard in them for three years now with no problems at all. I bought mine for less than $160, but the new model is around $215 at Dan Bailey’s. Maybe you can find them cheaper elsewhere. Dan Baileys sells their own relatively inexpensive breathables for $130. http://www.dan-bailey.com/ Cabelas makes breathables ("Barebones") for $99.00. Cabelas usually sells good products and stands behind them, but I can’t vouch personally for these waders. http://www.cabelas.com/texis/scripts/store/+/CatalogDisplay/displayPO… Orvis makes an inexpensive line of breathables (Clearwater) for $130. I haven’t worn them, but that a friend of mine swears they’re great. Unless you’re going to do a lot of fishing in very, very cold water, go for breathable waders rather than neoprene. You can always wear fleece underwear under the waders. JR — To reply, remove the Qs from the address above
As you know, the most expensive is not necessarily the best value.
Blasphemy! Hodgeman, Dan Bailey’s, Bare, Ronny, all make good breathable waders for a decent price. LL Bean, Simms, Patagonia make damn good breathable waders for a bigger price but tis the end of season and the 2001s are coming, check out www.rei-outlet.com and see if they still have last years Patagonia breathables on closeout. — Wayne Knight Expert in creating tailing loops and windknots Otherwise Fishless in Kansas Before you buy.
Thanks for the advice guys. Should I stay away from the Wal-Mart stuff? From your replies it looks like the breathable are what I should get, other wise we sweat too much or what? Sparky
Should I stay away from the Wal-Mart stuff?
Depends on what they sell. From your replies it looks like the breathable are what I should get, other wise we sweat too much or what?
I’m not sure if you actually sweat less in breathables than regular lightweight waders, but it’s more like wearing pants instead of plastic wrap. You don’t get so clammy. Because, you know, they "breathe". You will sweat more in neoprenes, yes. Regards, Jeff
My Hodgemaan Lakestream 4mm neoprene bootfoot waders lasted me about 4 years before I decided to give up on them. However, early on, they developed a leak near the crotch seam which I attempted to seal using the repair adhesive that was supplied with the waders. The Hodgeman adhesive never took hold and it dried into a hard stiff crust. After a couple of uses, the Aquaseal that I had coated on top of it would be worn out from the crusty Hodgman adhesive rubbing up against from below. I put even more Aquaseal on top of it but it turns out that a very thick layer of Aquaseal is not as flexible as the thin layer and it will eventually crack with repeated flexion. So I gave up on them. However, the later leaks that did occur, whether due to punctures or worn seams, I was able to repair (permanently) with a thin coat of Aquaseal w/o difficulty. The Thinsulate layered boots were very warm and I usually only required a single sock even in freezing temperatures – the tradeoff was that the boots did not fit tightly so there was even less ankle support than what little you’d expect from bootfoot waders in the first place. The layer of air between my foot and the boot kept my toes warm. The seams on the Hodgman Lakestream are glued and stitched but are not taped. The connection between the boot and the neoprene held up very well and I never had a problem on either foot. These cost between $99 and $119 typically. Although I own a pair of Orvis (stockingfoot) breathables, which IMO have an extremely fair and honest warranty policy, I might buy another pair of Hodgeman neoprene bootfoots for: Saltwater 1) metal components on my standard wading boots face corrosion 2) even with gravel guards and a flats bootie, the pounding surf will force sand into the footwear. Float Tubing 1) your butt will get damp in breathable waders Extreme situations 1) if you are going to be in the water most of the time; your breathable waders won’t breath when submerged (though I suppose the vapor could escape out the top of your waders) 2) except perhaps for the Kevlar-coated breathable waders worn over thick plush polyester underwear, neoprene offers greater physical protection against prickly plants and jagged rocks. 3) on the coldest days, I still prefer neoprene bootfoot waders. The above is based on my preferences. YMMV. Mu
Hi Guys. I’m slowly getting into fly fishing and wondering about waders. I only know about Orvis products and the other stuff from Wal-Mart. What other brands are there and not wanting to pay just for the name, what’s the best value for the money. As you know, the most expensive is not necessarily the best value. diawa waders are great
Before you buy.
Hi, I am from New Brunswick Canada. I am a beginner in fly fishing. I just subcribed to this group. I would like to know if anyone could advise me on waders purchasing. I am looking for chest waders and I visited a few fishing equ. supply stores. I would like to know if particular brands are more durable than others and any information to know before bying. Tanks in advance for any advice. Pete.
Pete; It depends of what seasons and type of water you will be fishing. I fish in all weather and times of year, mostly from a float tube, and so like 5mil waders; the extra warmth is worth a little discomfort during the warmer weather. I have found the waders sold by Cabelas to be a good value. Ken…
Hi, I am from New Brunswick Canada. I am a beginner in fly fishing. I just subcribed to this group. I would like to know if anyone could advise me on waders purchasing. I am looking for chest waders and I visited a few fishing equ. supply stores. I would like to know if particular brands are more durable than others and any information to know before
Two basic choices: — boot-foot or stocking-foot (with separate shoes); — material: expanded foam, traditional rubber on canvas, or all latex. These days stocking-foots of expanded foam predominate among serious fly fishers. But many Canadian stores stock nothing but rubber boot-foot waders (always heavy and sometimes too hot for summer use.) The most practical outfit is also the cheapest — all-latex stocking-foots with boots of your choice. (I wear Seal-Dri latex with Converse boots, felt-soled with hard rubber toecap on fabric uppers.) So long as you buy boots large enough to wear 3 pairs of socks as well, this outfit does for both summer and winter fishing (with or without long johns etc.) But foam may be driving latex off the market. — | Donald Phillipson, 4180 Boundary Road, Carlsbad Springs, | | Ontario, Canada, K0A 1K0, tel. 613 822 0734 |
Hi, I am from New Brunswick Canada. I am a beginner in fly fishing. I just subcribed to this group. I would like to know if anyone could advise me on waders purchasing. I am looking for chest waders and I visited a few fishing equ. supply stores. I would like to know if particular brands are more durable than others and any information to know before bying. Tanks in advance for any advice. Pete.
Wardell and Bare are Canadian brands that are also sold in the US. They are both good companies with fine products. William Kiene Kiene’s Fly Shop Sacramento,CA,USA
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – <snip senseless twittering By the by, Charles, would this also be the same reason that you feel you must also top post? If so, would I be stepping beyond the proper by asking that you dispatch the vile creature with a rather swiftly-deployed blow to the solar plexus…or a quick kick to the nards… Hoping with all earnestness that this truly helps, Hughsford Gentlingham Rectionsfield Who is this dude? Head marm of the Usenet?
Yes. — HTH, Tim
HTH,
It did. Thanks. Russell And I was thinkin he was a kook.
HTH, It did. Thanks. Russell And I was thinkin he was a kook.
Well, the resemblance IS uncanny. Wolfgang
Maybe he is jealous as he has not a pair of waders to his name???????
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – HTH, It did. Thanks. Russell And I was thinkin he was a kook. Well, the resemblance IS uncanny. Wolfgang
- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – <snip senseless twittering By the by, Charles, would this also be the same reason that you feel you must also top post? If so, would I be stepping beyond the proper by asking that you dispatch the vile creature with a rather swiftly-deployed blow to the solar plexus…or a quick kick to the nards… Hoping with all earnestness that this truly helps, Hughsford Gentlingham Rectionsfield Who is this dude? Head marm of the Usenet? Yes.
!! Does Tony G. know about this?? /daytripper (anyone see some stray catz comin’ by this dump?
<snip senseless twittering By the by, Charles, would this also be the same reason that you feel you must also top post? If so, would I be stepping beyond the proper by asking that you dispatch the vile creature with a rather swiftly-deployed blow to the solar plexus…or a quick kick to the nards… Hoping with all earnestness that this truly helps, Hughsford Gentlingham Rectionsfield
Who is this dude? Head marm of the Usenet? Russell
Why must you say? Is there some huge demented freak standing there with a large-caliber weapon trained upon your person? If so, you do so truly have my deepest sympathy and condolences. By the by, Charles, would this also be the same reason that you feel you must also top post? If so, would I be stepping beyond the proper by asking that you dispatch the vile creature with a rather swiftly-deployed blow to the solar plexus…or a quick kick to the nards… Hoping with all earnestness that this truly helps, Hughsford Gentlingham Rectionsfield – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -I had a pair and they leaked like crazy, took them back and went out and spent the big bucks on a pair of orvis stocking foot waders….quite expensive i must say,,,,,,,but they are awesome. Does anyone know anything about Hodgman Wadelite Chest Waders? First of all, do people like them? Second, I am wondering if I should get xl or xxl (by mail). I’m tall and thin, so if xxl is the same height as xl, just wider, I guess xl is my best bet.
I had a pair and they leaked like crazy, took them back and went out and spent the big bucks on a pair of orvis stocking foot waders….quite expensive i must say,,,,,,,but they are awesome.
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Does anyone know anything about Hodgman Wadelite Chest Waders? First of all, do people like them? Second, I am wondering if I should get xl or xxl (by mail). I’m tall and thin, so if xxl is the same height as xl, just wider, I guess xl is my best bet.
Does anyone know anything about Hodgman Wadelite Chest Waders? First of all, do people like them? Second, I am wondering if I should get xl or xxl (by mail). I’m tall and thin, so if xxl is the same height as xl, just wider, I guess xl is my best bet.
I am not sure, if these are the waders you are lokking for, but it might help you. http://www.outdoorreview.com/pscFlyfishing,Equipment/Flyfishing,Appar… ers/PLS_1395_72crx.aspx If this link does not work, have a look at www.outdoorreview.com and search in the categorie flyfishing. Good luck Wim
Does anyone know anything about Hodgman Wadelite Chest Waders? First of all, do people like them? Second, I am wondering if I should get xl or xxl (by mail). I’m tall and thin, so if xxl is the same height as xl, just wider, I guess xl is my best bet.
Does anyone know anything about Hodgman Wadelite Chest Waders?
No. No one in this group has ever heard of them. Wolfgang
I just bought a pair and will try them out this Sunday. Iv talked to two people in our club who have them and are happy with them. — Fly Fisherman With a Furless Naked Cat named Dub.
If anyone could please help with information on purchasing waders, I would greatly appreciate it. I am on a modest budget. Also, I don’t know what is meant by stocking foot, etc., so please educate this knowless fisher. Thanks, Matt
<<If anyone could please help with information on purchasing waders, I would greatly appreciate it. I bought cabellas for both my neoprenes (stockingfoot, meaning I had to also buy boots<with felt soles for better traction) and my rubber coated canvas boot soled (so I didnt have to buy boots) waders. Cabellas quality is quite high and I have been very happy. A friend on the neversink river in the catskills, likes redball. I plan to buy red ball hip boots next spring.After all you can never have too many different ways to get into the stream. In Montana I just wore jeans, but it is nice to stay dry. Sean Skilling