- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Hey All, I’ve finally taken the plunge and decided to Build my first fly rod.I’ve ordered a St.Croix Avid nine foot seven weight.I figured I’d go with a kit for my first one so that at least all the components would match and I didn’t want to spend too much money in case I f**k it up.This rod will fill nicely a gap in my rod collection.I like flyfishing for largemouths and my nine weight seems like overkill and my six weight not enough.I’m not buying any fancy tools (yet),I’m going to be doing it the old way using a heavy book for tension and turning the rod every few minutes while I watch t.v..I’d appreciate any tips on what usually goes wrong for first time rod builders. regards,Shawn
Several points to ponder: Get Garcia’s book on graphite rodbuilding. tons of good info there, especially if you’ll be turning the rod by hand. also: Instead of 5 minute epoxy for the reel seat, etc, go for something with a slightly longer cure time. I found some 15′ stuff that worked well, and was even stronger. makes you a bit less nervous about getting everything the way you want it in 5′ as well. Keep redoing the wraps until they’re just the way you want them. Wrap the winding check last; it’s the most visible wrap when you’re fishing, and by saving it for the end, you’ll have all that practice beforehand. Take one last look at the wraps and the guide alignment before you mix the rod finish. Once the epoxy goes on the rod, there’s no turning back. Use syringes to measure the epoxy and hardener, and use only syringes made/sold expressly for rodbuilding. Medical syringes, while cheap and abundant, have nothing to offer the rodbuilder but misery and regret. You *will* get bubbles in the finished wraps. Steam from a cup of hot water will make them go away. I’ve hand-turned all my rods and gotten nice results. Got nothing against the automatic turners, just don’t have one. Follow Garcia’s suggestions for turning intervals and you should be fine. I strongly suggest that you use an oven timer or something similar to remind you to get up and turn the rod, especially near the end, when the intervals have stretched to 30-60′. Finally, my overall advice is to be patient, and do a quality job. Your care (or haste) in building it will be evident for many years. — Rusty Hook Laramie, Wyoming
A * much * better solvent for epoxies is acetone. — Don Thompson Another Thompson Scion
Acetone must be used with great care near rods. It will eat into the blank and damage it irreparably. Alcohol is better for wiping off excess epoxy for this reason. TL MC
Thanks Guys, I’m going crazy waiting for the damn thing to arrive in the mail.I was hoping to get it done this week while I’m still on vacation.I have a video and a pretty good book so I’m hoping things will go pretty smoothly, but no book or video can prepare you for my own personal style of screwups.My attitude is if I mess up I’ll just scrape it off and start over until I get it right. Regards,Shawn
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – A * much * better solvent for epoxies is acetone. — Don Thompson Another Thompson Scion Acetone must be used with great care near rods. It will eat into the blank and damage it irreparably. Alcohol is better for wiping off excess epoxy for this reason. TL MC
Hey All, I’ve finally taken the plunge and decided to Build my first fly rod.I’ve ordered a St.Croix Avid nine foot seven weight.I figured I’d go with a kit for my first one so that at least all the components would match and I didn’t want to spend too much money in case I f**k it up.This rod will fill nicely a gap in my rod collection.I like flyfishing for largemouths and my nine weight seems like overkill and my six weight not enough.I’m not buying any fancy tools (yet),I’m going to be doing it the old way using a heavy book for tension and turning the rod every few minutes while I watch t.v..I’d appreciate any tips on what usually goes wrong for first time rod builders. regards,Shawn
I’m not buying any fancy tools (yet),I’m going to be doing it the old way using a heavy book for tension and turning the rod every few minutes while I watch t.v..I’d appreciate any tips on what usually goes wrong for first time rod builders.
They watch some damn show that captures their interest and don’t turn the rod often enough. — Don Thompson Another Thompson Scion – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – regards,Shawn
I’d appreciate any tips on what usually goes wrong for first time rod builders. It starts with opening the package and goes down hill from there. The bright side is…you learn from every mistake. Have fun…it really ain’t that hard. jim
Its already been said – Epoxy keeps flowing after you’r really sure it’s set up. You may turn the thing for hours and be sure it set, so you put it up. Next morning bumps where overnight the stuff has continued to flow. If you can jury rig something to turn it do so ( I made one cheap using a dryer timing motor 6RPM) If you have never built or repaired a rod before I suggest going to Goodwill or Salvation Army and buying one. Redo the guides and then give it back to them, it’s cheap practice. Good Luck
I’d appreciate any tips on what usually goes wrong for first time rod – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -builders. regards,Shawn
Hey All, I’ve finally taken the plunge and decided to Build my first fly rod.I’ve ordered a St.Croix Avid nine foot seven weight.I figured I’d go with a kit for my first one so that at least all the components would match and I didn’t want to spend too much money in case I f**k it up.This rod will fill nicely a gap in my rod collection.I like flyfishing for largemouths and my nine weight seems like overkill and my six weight not enough.I’m not buying any fancy tools (yet),I’m going to be doing it the old way using a heavy book for tension and turning the rod every few minutes while I watch t.v..I’d appreciate any tips on what usually goes wrong for first time rod builders. regards,Shawn
Here’s a couple of items could save you some grief. Don’t use 5 minute epoxy to put on the reel seat or the handle. It can take longer than 5 minutes to get things properly situated. Use something with a longer pot life. Be real careful mixing up the wrap coating epoxy lest it set sticky. Use a minimum of 3 cc’s of each component when mixing. This will tend to minimize the error in measuring equal quantities. The stuff tends to be real sensitive to silicones which tend to be found in plastic measuring and mixing cups, stirring rods etc. There are these special syringes supplied by the coating maker for measuring the stuff which are guaranteed free of it. Don’t use any substitutes. Mix the stuff up in something made of glass like a shot glass and stir it with something like a stainless steel spoon handle. Denatured alcohol will work as a solvent to clean up afterward. good luck Mike — Michael McGuire Hewlett Packard Laboratories Phone: (650)-857-5491 Palo Alto, CA 94303-0971
Be real careful mixing up the wrap coating epoxy lest it set sticky. Use a minimum of 3 cc’s of each component when mixing. This will tend to minimize the error in measuring equal quantities.
Good advice all around. Equal parts is a good thing. I’ve been able to use steel kitchen measuring spoons to mix up 1 teaspoon at a time w/o problems. Mu
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Hey All, I’ve finally taken the plunge and decided to Build my first fly rod.I’ve ordered a St.Croix Avid nine foot seven weight.I figured I’d go with a kit for my first one so that at least all the components would match and I didn’t want to spend too much money in case I f**k it up.This rod will fill nicely a gap in my rod collection.I like flyfishing for largemouths and my nine weight seems like overkill and my six weight not enough.I’m not buying any fancy tools (yet),I’m going to be doing it the old way using a heavy book for tension and turning the rod every few minutes while I watch t.v..I’d appreciate any tips on what usually goes wrong for first time rod builders. regards,Shawn Here’s a couple of items could save you some grief. Don’t use 5 minute epoxy to put on the reel seat or the handle. It can take longer than 5 minutes to get things properly situated. Use something with a longer pot life. Be real careful mixing up the wrap coating epoxy lest it set sticky. Use a minimum of 3 cc’s of each component when mixing. This will tend to minimize the error in measuring equal quantities. The stuff tends to be real sensitive to silicones which tend to be found in plastic measuring and mixing cups, stirring rods etc. There are these special syringes supplied by the coating maker for measuring the stuff which are guaranteed free of it. Don’t use any substitutes. Mix the stuff up in something made of glass like a shot glass and stir it with something like a stainless steel spoon handle. Denatured alcohol will work as a solvent to clean up afterward.
A * much * better solvent for epoxies is acetone. — Don Thompson Another Thompson Scion – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – good luck Mike — Michael McGuire Hewlett Packard Laboratories Phone: (650)-857-5491 Palo Alto, CA 94303-0971
… Denatured alcohol will work as a solvent to clean up afterward. A * much * better solvent for epoxies is acetone. — Don Thompson
There is some opinion out there that acetone attacks rod finishes. Denatured alcohol has worked quite well for me for cleaning up epoxy that’s still in the fluid state, and it’s arguably less toxic for skin contact and vapor too. But acetone may be the right answer if the stuff has started to set up and you need to get it off. Mike — Michael McGuire Hewlett Packard Laboratories Phone: (650)-857-5491 Palo Alto, CA 94303-0971
I’d rather throw a few spoons and shot glasses away than mess around with acetone in the house. Very flamable. Great stuff if your an arsonist because it leaves almost no residue. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – A * much * better solvent for epoxies is acetone. — Don Thompson Another Thompson Scion good luck Mike — Michael McGuire Hewlett Packard Laboratories Phone: (650)-857-5491 Palo Alto, CA 94303-0971
I’d rather throw a few spoons and shot glasses away than mess around with acetone in the house. Very flamable. Great stuff if your an arsonist because it leaves almost no residue. A * much * better solvent for epoxies is acetone.
Or just go to a charity store and buy a "china" (i.e., not plastic) dinner plate and a few dinner/butter knives. The plate "palette" will lhave room for several batches. TC, R
Actually not.It leaves a distinct burn pattern that is readily aparent to an accomplished fire investigator. — Don Thompson Another Thompson Scion
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I’d rather throw a few spoons and shot glasses away than mess around with acetone in the house. Very flamable. Great stuff if your an arsonist because it leaves almost no residue. A * much * better solvent for epoxies is acetone. — Don Thompson Another Thompson Scion good luck Mike — Michael McGuire Hewlett Packard Laboratories Phone: (650)-857-5491 Palo Alto, CA 94303-0971
I’m relatively new to Colorado — but I’ve been flyfishing for some 16 years now (finally getting decent 
. I’m interested in finding some fishing partners and/or perhaps getting an informal fishing club going? I know about TU, but I’m looking more for a small group that would like to get together once or twice a month and swap fish tales and organize outings…… any interest? Or any groups like this out there?
–
check out the FEderation of Flyfisher’s website. They have links to local clubs you can check into. Click the link for FFF clubs and look under "by state" for Colorado. http://www.fedflyfishers.org Best of luck – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I’m relatively new to Colorado — but I’ve been flyfishing for some 16 years now (finally getting decent . I’m interested in finding some fishing partners and/or perhaps getting an informal fishing club going? I know about TU, but I’m looking more for a small group that would like to get together once or twice a month and swap fish tales and organize outings…… any interest? Or any groups like this out there? —
Sorry there was a typo in my instructions. It should be by region, not by state. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – check out the FEderation of Flyfisher’s website. They have links to local clubs you can check into. Click the link for FFF clubs and look under "by state" for Colorado. http://www.fedflyfishers.org Best of luck I’m relatively new to Colorado — but I’ve been flyfishing for some 16 years now (finally getting decent . I’m interested in finding some fishing partners and/or perhaps getting an informal fishing club going? I know about TU, but I’m looking more for a small group that would like to get together once or twice a month and swap fish tales and organize outings…… any interest? Or any groups like this out there? —
well said I think. put another way: A $10000 body will produce the same results as a $100 one if you shoot the basics. Sunil www.lockon.f2s.com
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I will probably be slammed by people thinking my reply is rude but here goes: If you have to ask this question you do not need an F5. An F5 is a professional camera. It is designed to withstand the rigors of pro use, and have the features we need when on location, regardless of the situation that comes up. Buy the F100 or possibly the 90s. Either of these cameras will save you close to $1000, and you can then buy better lenses. One of the funniest things I see when working is I will be standing there with my F5 and my 80-200 AF-S, and someone will come up to me with an F5 and a tamron 28-200 lens on it and want to talk shop, and he has no clue what an f-stop is. Seriously, save your money, don’t spend it just because you have it. You will be buying features you will NEVER use! Mike
Your right.
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I am not upset. I just wanted to point out some thing you didn’t mention. No offense intended. Relax, he didn’t say what he needed the camera to do. He just asked if the F5 was worth the money. You act like I insulted your mother — not your camera. Jeez. The F5 has every feature available to a 35mm camera (as far as I know). You can do everything photographic with it. The F100 has limitations. To me the F5 is cheaper than the F100 because of a few features it has over the F100. The easily swappable focusing screens, mirror lock-up, interchangeable viewfinders, and 100% viewfinder are all virtually priceless features. I believe the F100 lacks DOF preview though I cannot be sure at the moment. Personally I would think Nikon could include at least a few of these features considering how expensive the F100 is. If you can cough up enough for the F100 then keep coughing until you get the F5 in your hands. 
There are two advantages to the F100, weight and price. If you need MLU, 100% viewfinder, etc go for the F5. If weight is an issue, the F100 is a great camera body. BTW the F100 has DOF preview. — Tom Thackrey tom at creative-light.com www.creative-light.com —–= Posted via Newsfeeds.Com, Uncensored Usenet News =—– http://www.newsfeeds.com – The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! —–== Over 80,000 Newsgroups – 16 Different Servers! =—–
What do you mean by "can’t use"?, is it not possible to mount an AI or AIS lens to the camera?, or does the matrix metering not function with MF lenses? If you are referring to Pre-AI lenses then I could see that they couldn’t be mounted to the camera (due to the AI tooth).
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Hey greg, If you are going to recommend the N90s then why not the N80? I thought I read somewhere that the N80 is the only Nikon that can’t use the older lenses. If this is true IMO then that’s reason enough not to bother with one.
Hey greg, If you are going to recommend the N90s then why not the N80? I thought I read somewhere that the N80 is the only Nikon that can’t use the older lenses. If this is true IMO then that’s reason enough not to bother with one.
The AI and AIS Nikkors will mount to the N80, but the meter is inoperative. — Tony Polson
Not even the spot-meter!?!?
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Hey greg, If you are going to recommend the N90s then why not the N80? I thought I read somewhere that the N80 is the only Nikon that can’t use the older lenses. If this is true IMO then that’s reason enough not to bother with one. The AI and AIS Nikkors will mount to the N80, but the meter is inoperative. — Tony Polson
Not even the spot-meter!?!?
Not even the spot meter. The N80/F80 will meter only with lenses that have a built-in CPU. All AF lenses will meter, plus all AI-P lenses. Nothing else will meter. I found this very disappointing, as I think the N80/F80 is otherwise an excellent camera. Had it metered with AI/AIS lenses, I would have bought one as a second body to go with my F3. As it is, I bought an F4, sold the F3 and then bought an F4 as a second body to go with the first F4. And I’ve steadily replaced my lenses over the last 5 months to the point where all but two are AF Nikkors. So I’m now considering selling one F4 and replacing it with a smaller, lighter body, which includes just about every 35mm SLR camera ever made. <g It will be either a used F100 or a new F80. — Tony Polson
The N80 is for the "new generation" of camera users. Those who start new in the AF line. It is not marketed as a retro camera. The camera’s metering system only works with AF lenses. Regards, Roger – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – What do you mean by "can’t use"?, is it not possible to mount an AI or AIS lens to the camera?, or does the matrix metering not function with MF lenses? If you are referring to Pre-AI lenses then I could see that they couldn’t be mounted to the camera (due to the AI tooth). Hey greg, If you are going to recommend the N90s then why not the N80? I thought I read somewhere that the N80 is the only Nikon that can’t use the older lenses. If this is true IMO then that’s reason enough not to bother with one.
It will be either a used F100 or a new F80.
Why an F80 over an F90x?
I guess he wants the more advanced AF. That’s the only thing these two camera have in common that the F90x lacks.
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – It will be either a used F100 or a new F80. Why an F80 over an F90x?
The F5 will probably make a much better door stop …. then again, you might be able to throw the F100 farther ….. just depends upon your priorities – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I will probably be slammed by people thinking my reply is rude but here goes: If you have to ask this question you do not need an F5. An F5 is a professional camera. It is designed to withstand the rigors of pro use, and have the features we need when on location, regardless of the situation that comes up. Buy the F100 or possibly the 90s. Either of these cameras will save you close to $1000, and you can then buy better lenses. One of the funniest things I see when working is I will be standing there with my F5 and my 80-200 AF-S, and someone will come up to me with an F5 and a tamron 28-200 lens on it and want to talk shop, and he has no clue what an f-stop is. Seriously, save your money, don’t spend it just because you have it. You will be buying features you will NEVER use! Mike
Hey greg, If you are going to recommend the N90s then why not the N80? Wouldn’t it be more for the money for someone shopping around for the N90s?
Following this line of logic, I suggest an N65 or a used EM. — Tony Polson
…or a $15 used Nikon L35AF. The AF is certainly fast enough. ;^)
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Hey greg, If you are going to recommend the N90s then why not the N80? Wouldn’t it be more for the money for someone shopping around for the N90s? Following this line of logic, I suggest an N65 or a used EM. — Tony Polson
Hey greg, If you are going to recommend the N90s then why not the N80?
I thought I read somewhere that the N80 is the only Nikon that can’t use the older lenses. If this is true IMO then that’s reason enough not to bother with one.
I am not upset. I just wanted to point out some thing you didn’t mention. No offense intended. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Relax, he didn’t say what he needed the camera to do. He just asked if the F5 was worth the money. You act like I insulted your mother — not your camera. Jeez. The F5 has every feature available to a 35mm camera (as far as I know). You can do everything photographic with it. The F100 has limitations. To me the F5 is cheaper than the F100 because of a few features it has over the F100. The easily swappable focusing screens, mirror lock-up, interchangeable viewfinders, and 100% viewfinder are all virtually priceless features. I believe the F100 lacks DOF preview though I cannot be sure at the moment. Personally I would think Nikon could include at least a few of these features considering how expensive the F100 is. If you can cough up enough for the F100 then keep coughing until you get the F5 in your hands. There are two advantages to the F100, weight and price. If you need MLU, 100% viewfinder, etc go for the F5. If weight is an issue, the F100 is a great camera body. BTW the F100 has DOF preview.
– Tom Thackrey tom at creative-light.com www.creative-light.com —–= Posted via Newsfeeds.Com, Uncensored Usenet News =—– http://www.newsfeeds.com – The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! —–== Over 80,000 Newsgroups – 16 Different Servers! =—–
I will probably be slammed by people thinking my reply is rude but here goes: If you have to ask this question you do not need an F5. An F5 is a professional camera. It is designed to withstand the rigors of pro use, and have the features we need when on location, regardless of the situation that comes up. Buy the F100 or possibly the 90s. Either of these cameras will save you close to $1000, and you can then buy better lenses. One of the funniest things I see when working is I will be standing there with my F5 and my 80-200 AF-S, and someone will come up to me with an F5 and a tamron 28-200 lens on it and want to talk shop, and he has no clue what an f-stop is. Seriously, save your money, don’t spend it just because you have it. You will be buying features you will NEVER use! Mike
I am planning to buy a new Nikon camra, question is if the F5 ist worth its money? The F100 is a cheaper and is it not as goog as the F5?
In some ways the F100 is better than the F5. They are slightly different cameras, aimed at a slightly different market. The F5 is the latest development of the professional F range, starting with the 1959 Nikon F. Like all its predecessors it has a 100% viewfinder, mirror lock up and easily interchangeable finders and focusing screens. The F100 is the latest development of the line that began with the F801 (N8008 in USA) and advanced through the F801s (N8008s), F90 (N90) and F90X (N90s) to the F100. Whilst the F801 was aimed at amateurs, it was attractive to pros as a more compact body than its contemporary in the F range, the bulky and heavy F4, so it was perfectly logical to develop the camera into the pro tool the F100 is. The F100 has a 96% viewfinder, no mirror lock up and a limited range of focusing screens which are not very easy to change. The other differences are mainly in the metering; the F5 has RGB Matrix metering whereas the F100 has the most advanced version of Nikon’s 3D Matrix metering. Both are state of the art metering systems, they are just different. The F5 has the reputation of getting the exposure right all the time, and the F100 nearly all of the time, but I would hesitate to conclude that one is significantly better than the other. If you want a pro system SLR with easily interchangeable viewfinders and screens, or mirror lock up is essential to you, or RGB matrix metering attracts you, go for the F5. If a lighter, more compact body (even with the MB-15 battery pack attached) attracts you, and mirror lock up is not absolutely vital, go for the F100. There is no wrong choice here; neither is "better". Both are amongst the finest 35mm SLR cameras made; both are high quality rugged pro tools; both can help a good photographer produce outstanding results. It’s a choice that many of us would like to have. Good luck! — Tony Polson
Let’s take an F5 and make it run at 4.5 fps instead of 8. Then let’s get rid of the interchangeable prism and make it a fixed prism. Take away MLU and the color matrix meter, and you should be left with a camera that’s about $700+ cheaper. Sounds like an F100? Keep DOF in all modes however and add red color to hilite the area being focused on and the F100 seems quite reasonable. — Wes Jansen Feather Foto LaConner, WA
Personally I would think Nikon could – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – include at least a few of these features considering how expensive the F100 is.
Relax, he didn’t say what he needed the camera to do. He just asked if the F5 was worth the money. You act like I insulted your mother — not your camera. Jeez.
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – The F5 has every feature available to a 35mm camera (as far as I know). You can do everything photographic with it. The F100 has limitations. To me the F5 is cheaper than the F100 because of a few features it has over the F100. The easily swappable focusing screens, mirror lock-up, interchangeable viewfinders, and 100% viewfinder are all virtually priceless features. I believe the F100 lacks DOF preview though I cannot be sure at the moment. Personally I would think Nikon could include at least a few of these features considering how expensive the F100 is. If you can cough up enough for the F100 then keep coughing until you get the F5 in your hands. There are two advantages to the F100, weight and price. If you need MLU, 100% viewfinder, etc go for the F5. If weight is an issue, the F100 is a great camera body. BTW the F100 has DOF preview. — Tom Thackrey tom at creative-light.com www.creative-light.com —–= Posted via Newsfeeds.Com, Uncensored Usenet News =—– http://www.newsfeeds.com – The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! —–== Over 80,000 Newsgroups – 16 Different Servers! =—–
Tom There are two advantages to the F100, weight and price. Three, actually: The F100 can be set to focus on the closest of the five autofocus sensors, and the F5 cannot — you have to select a sensor by hand. —
If you don’t need the AF speed then the Nikon F4 is a really great buy. The Nikon F3 or F2 with a handheld spot-meter would be a good buy too.
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – The F5 has every feature available to a 35mm camera (as far as I know). You can do everything photographic with it. The F100 has limitations. To me the F5 is cheaper than the F100 because of a few features it has over the F100. The easily swappable focusing screens, mirror lock-up, interchangeable viewfinders, and 100% viewfinder are all virtually priceless features. I believe the F100 lacks DOF preview though I cannot be sure at the moment. Personally I would think Nikon could include at least a few of these features considering how expensive the F100 is. If you can cough up enough for the F100 then keep coughing until you get the F5 in your hands. Regards, dat I am planning to buy a new Nikon camra, question is if the F5 ist worth its money? The F100 is a cheaper and is it not as goog as the F5? Ren
Journal Entry October 19, 1999 New Brooklyn Lake is adjacent to New Brooklyn County Park. The park has a small pond on it that recently had a dock added. As a matter of fact I am certain that the dock had just been recently completed. I stopped by today to just look over the pond. The leave have begun to fall and they are starting to clutter the waters surface. It was a strange dichotomy as the water was dead calm and the riotous colors of the fall foliage was a stark contrast to the mysterious dark waters. I also stopped by New Brooklyn Lake. This is just around the bend from the pond at the park. It was kind of odd that I even made this trip today as I was fully intending to try to find the large body of water by Penbryn. That did not pan out but I did get to do some good exploring in the area… At the end I just headed for known waters. There are always a lot of duck and geese at the lake. This day was no exception. I had to walk past flocks of them to get to the water. I noticed one other fellow fishing the lake today. He was simply using spinning gear and tossing some various lures to the edge of the weed beds and working them across the water but he did not look like he had any luck. I came with the full intent to work on my steeple casting but I ended up doing more roll casting practice and standard casting. The nice things about this place is that there are some areas with wonderful casting room. But there are also lots of challenging casting areas! This was a very good day as I caught another hitherto un-caught fish. Today I add the pickrel to my list of captured fish. I caught in on an olive grizzly wolly bugger and he was a neat fish! I managed to bring him in but he was rather slimy and managed to break free before I could photograph him! And he had the temerity to take my fly too! I just have to collect the materials to tie that one and I’ll tie a few myself! Other than that though it was very slow and the water quite cold! I think I am nearing the end of the wading season unless I am on the beach! For photo’s visit my fishing site and look at Spots 2 Fish and you can see the various snapshots. — Michael Era
Has anyone had the chance to use these rods before? I saw them at the Flyfishing Retailers Expo in Saltlake City and was quite impressed with them. They seem really good looking, made in Florida by a new company. Components and quality seems to belie the fact that they are only priced around $100-200! I’m going to get one to try out and was wondering if anyone had any experience with them. I’m not endorsing or promoting them or am anyway associated with them. Enuf said! Before you buy.
They seem really good looking, made in Florida by a new company. Components and quality seems to belie the fact that they are only priced around $100-200! I’m going to get one to try out and was wondering if anyone had any experience with them. I’m not endorsing or promoting them or am anyway associated with them.
To answer your question I have not heard of them, but now I have a question. Do you have a contact for the company or the ownership of this company, I have heard that len codella’s son was involved in a new graphite rod co. Len used to be with T&T who once had a line of rods called the Heritage series which they dropped, I think about the time Len left. If this is Len’s son’s company and if they are based on the old Heritage action I’m gonna have to buy a few. Thanks Wayne Knight (remove nospam to respond via mail) Expert in the creation of wind knots and tailing loops.
A member of my TU chapter has been selling those Heritage rods. I don’t know much about where they’re from (maybe Korean blanks?) but I liked the feel of them when we had a chance to try them out last spring. We bought a bunch of them to replace the aging Cortlands we use in our flycasting classes – very good value. We’re also going to raffle off a couple this year for fundraisers. –Stan – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Has anyone had the chance to use these rods before? I saw them at the Flyfishing Retailers Expo in Saltlake City and was quite impressed with them. They seem really good looking, made in Florida by a new company. Components and quality seems to belie the fact that they are only priced around $100-200! I’m going to get one to try out and was wondering if anyone had any experience with them. I’m not endorsing or promoting them or am anyway associated with them. Enuf said!
Cool! I will be calling them about buying a few. I will keep you all updated. This much I was told when I talked to them at the convention, they are somehow in league with Teton/Tioga folks, and that they roll their own blanks and are based in Florida. They have only apparently been in business for 9 months and are currently trying to buuld up an inventory. Presently they are unable to keep up with demand..or so I’ve been told. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – A member of my TU chapter has been selling those Heritage rods. I don’t know much about where they’re from (maybe Korean blanks?) but I liked the feel of them when we had a chance to try them out last spring. We bought a bunch of them to replace the aging Cortlands we use in our flycasting classes – very good value. We’re also going to raffle off a couple this year for fundraisers. –Stan Has anyone had the chance to use these rods before? I saw them at the Flyfishing Retailers Expo in Saltlake City and was quite impressed with them. They seem really good looking, made in Florida by a new company. Components and quality seems to belie the fact that they are only priced around $100-200! I’m going to get one to try out and was wondering if anyone had any experience with them. I’m not endorsing or promoting them or am anyway associated with them. Enuf said!
Before you buy.
I’m interested in learning more. Do you have a contact, telephone #, City? Tom – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Cool! I will be calling them about buying a few. I will keep you all updated. This much I was told when I talked to them at the convention, they are somehow in league with Teton/Tioga folks, and that they roll their own blanks and are based in Florida. They have only apparently been in business for 9 months and are currently trying to buuld up an inventory. Presently they are unable to keep up with demand..or so I’ve been told. A member of my TU chapter has been selling those Heritage rods. I don’t know much about where they’re from (maybe Korean blanks?) but I liked the feel of them when we had a chance to try them out last spring. We bought a bunch of them to replace the aging Cortlands we use in our flycasting classes – very good value. We’re also going to raffle off a couple this year for fundraisers. –Stan Has anyone had the chance to use these rods before? I saw them at the Flyfishing Retailers Expo in Saltlake City and was quite impressed with them. They seem really good looking, made in Florida by a new company. Components and quality seems to belie the fact that they are only priced around $100-200! I’m going to get one to try out and was wondering if anyone had any experience with them. I’m not endorsing or promoting them or am anyway associated with them. Enuf said! Before you buy.
Well, i just spoke to Phil who was the older gentleman I met at the show. He said that they are at the moment unable to keep up with the orders and it’ll be at least two mths before he’s caught up. They can only make about 500 rods a week at the moment. He is going to try to get me a 6wt and an 8 wt to test out. They also have spey rods and their travel rods won’t be available till next year. I did manage to get more info about the rods: They don’t have the warranties that Redington has, nor do they come with fancy tubes and cases. Most of the rods are black on black, stainless SIC stripping guides, stainless snake guides, aluminum reel seats on the saltwater models, wood on the others. Nice finish on the rods in my opinion. Phil also said that for those of you who are interested, your best bet is to contact your nearest Teton/Tioga dealer abt the rods. I’ll let you all know when I get the rods. Before you buy.
Float tube – suggestions?? Vest – days are usually very warm so I don’t really want to add another layer. Are there any mesh knit vests? thanks, Don
Don, there are mesh vests, and I wouldn’t be without one. Almost any FF’ing dealer will have them, and, of course, most all the large mail order catalogs, take your pick. They can run from 30 bucks on up to near a C note. If you’re approaching oldfartism, like me, then you might want to consider a V tube or U tube for ease of getting in and out of. Doughnuts are fine, but can be a hassle getting into them. There are plenty to pick from, again, check out the mail order catalogs. Frank Church Elkhart, IN
(snip) then you might want to consider a V tube or U tube for ease of getting in and out of. Doughnuts are fine, but can be a hassle getting into them. There are plenty to pick from, again, check out the mail order catalogs. Frank Church Elkhart, IN
True, there are many tubes to choose from…but, 90% of them, in my opinion, don’t cut the mustard….built cheap, sewn cheap, cheap material, and cheap bladders. Now if your serious about tubing, check out the V-tube ‘Whisper’ from Leigh Outdoors in Utah. Modified 10×22" truck tube (not a bladder), comfortable adjustable hard seat…about $200.00 Mike’s got them at Mikes Fly Desk in Bountiful, Utah. And no, I’m not a relative or employee of Mike’s….I just know a damn good tube when I see one. Call him at 801/292-4736 or FAX 801/298-9442 for his catalog…you won’t be sorry. Greg Hardig
If you’re going to carry the float tube any distance, get the lightest that will uspport you. This generally means a donut with a bladder. Only question is what diameter you need for yor weight. I carry a Caddis 20" that only wieghs 3 lbs. Uboats run 7 to 12 pounds. Inner tubes are very heavy compared to bladders. Breaathables are light but very cold for float tubing in high mountain lakes. Often the weight you save is used up in carrying long underwear. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I’m new to fly fishing and just getting my gear. One of my favorite hiking areas is the east side of the Sierra and I’ve got a few gear questions for use in this environment – spring – fall. Waders – something light for packing, comfortable to use all day (breathable?), also use in float tube. Float tube – suggestions?? Vest – days are usually very warm so I don’t really want to add another layer. Are there any mesh knit vests? thanks, Don
I’m new to fly fishing and just getting my gear. One of my favorite hiking areas is the east side of the Sierra and I’ve got a few gear questions for use in this environment – spring – fall. Waders – something light for packing, comfortable to use all day (breathable?), also use in float tube. Float tube – suggestions?? Vest – days are usually very warm so I don’t really want to add another layer. Are there any mesh knit vests? thanks, Don
This topic may have been discussed here before, but… Like most people, I spot dead animals by the roads all the time. Squirrels are a dime a dozen, and just this morning I saw a fox lying frozen in the ditch. Seems like this is a lot of great fly tying fur going to waste! (Most carcasses end up at a local rendering plant around here.) Especially that fox…I hate the idea of letting all that beautiful fur go to waste. (I’m sure the fox would approve of his fur being used for flies rather than as pig chow.)
Scott, I’ll second the notion of Mike O’Connor about Eric Leiser’s book. Also his site does a great job of explaining to a novice how to prepare roadkill. I wrote Eric Leiser years ago (early 80s) about using American Oppossum (commonly known as ‘possums) in flies. I got back a nice note (which I kept!) saying he had seen some very nice streamers using ‘possum. He said you could dye it colors if need be. He compared it to a "soft but still lustrous polar bear." Given the number of ‘possums that I see dead on the road I think I will have to start carrying some rubber gloves, a sharp knife and some Ziplok bags. Since I usually have to wear a suit to work that should be an interesting picture.<g’ -John
I wrote Eric Leiser years ago (early 80s) about using American Oppossum (commonly known as ‘possums) in flies. I got back a nice note (which I kept!) saying he had seen some very nice streamers using ‘possum. He said you could dye it colors if need be. He compared it to a "soft but still lustrous polar bear." Given the number of ‘possums that I see dead on the road I think I will have to start carrying some rubber gloves, a sharp knife and some Ziplok bags. Since I usually have to wear a suit to work that should be an interesting picture.<g’ -John
‘Possums – 325 million years of evolution, targeted at becoming roadkill. Ain’t nature mysterious! RMF
Last year, I spotted a large bird carcass by the side of the road. Thinking it was a goose, I swung around and pulled over. Well, it was actually a great blue herron which had been hit by a car and killed! I threw the whole thing in the back of my Subaru and took it home (my 10-year-old son loved it when I pulled it out and chased him with it! <g). Then, of course, I discovered that having a herron carcass was as illegal as owning a bald eagle skin. So much for a lifetime supply of salmon and steelhead flies! I called the local DNR office and turned the carcass in. Dave McCarty
I once published a piece in Rod and Reel (March 1985?) called "Roadkill Streamers" ..the best streamer fur I’m aware of is marmot: IE western woodchuck. How close marmots are or are not to eastern woodchucks I don’t know. But there is at least one big difference: Unlike a woodchuck, the skin of a marmot peels off like a rabbit skin–with no greasy fat adhering to the hide. Better yet, marmot fur has color-banded shades of gray-to-cree-brown, so it automatically looks a lot like a sculpin. Hard stuff to beat. I don’t bother with borax or multi-step tanning processes, all you need to do is strip off the fur and salt it a little. Last note: marmot fur is so easy to peel off, it’s not a big trick to skewer a strip of fresh marmot skin on hook, add a split shot to the leader, and fish almost instantly. Is that bait fishing? Guess it is. I tried it once….didn’t seem to work any better tho. — /* Sandy Pittendrigh –oO0 * http://www.nervana.montana.edu/~sandy */
Keep new skins seperate from the rest of your materials until you are certain no pests are feeding off your new found treasure. Freeze it for a few days to be on the safe side.
I just read in the current American Angler that freezing does not kill destructive insect larvae. The article recommends microwaving on high for 10 to 15 seconds, heating in an oven at 160 degrees for two or three hours, or exposing to sunlight. — something bogus to avoid spam)
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Keep new skins seperate from the rest of your materials until you are certain no pests are feeding off your new found treasure. Freeze it for a few days to be on the safe side. I just read in the current American Angler that freezing does not kill destructive insect larvae. The article recommends microwaving on high for 10 to 15 seconds, heating in an oven at 160 degrees for two or three hours, or exposing to sunlight. — something bogus to avoid spam)
I douse the freshly dead animals ( either road kills or from local hunters ) with a powerful disinfectant spray, ( do not use disinfectant with bleach additives ! ) and leave them for a short while. Then wearing gloves, I skin the animals, which should be as fresh as possible, using a very sharp scalpel ( just did two foxes which were about a week old ! Bloody awful job ! ) salt the skin liberally with a 1:1 mix of ordinary salt and borax, with a few crystals of napthalene added ( crushed mothballs ), and then leave to dry in a cool dry place. Some skins I nail stretched to a board with galvanised nails ( stops skin and fur discolouration at the nailing point ). When dry, I rinse off the salt, and wash the skins with ordinary soap powder (as used in the home washing machine), in the bathtub and spread on clean newspaper to dry. When completely dry ( the skin feels like dry parchment to the touch ), place in an airtight box with a few mothballs. I have some skins over twenty years old prepared in this way and they are still perfect. If you get a good collection of skins ( Hare, Fox, and Squirrel is good), you can make up a whole range of wonderful dubbing. Dyeing the skins extends the range even further, and just a couple of skins will last the average tyer a lifetime. Hope this helps. Tight lines ! Mike Connor
Years ago maybe still road-kill pheasants were a popular item for fly tying materials in Northern Colorado. Are they still? I havent but in that are in a long time. Al
The cock Ringneck Pheasant has some of the most varied and interesting feathers for tying that I have seen. — Ernie Harrison <snip – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I think most fly tiers take the Pheasant for granted because they are so common. No definitive line of flies have been invented for the use of pheasant feathers except a few basic ones. Frankly, its time the inventive nature of the fly tying fraternity gets on the band wagon and start producing fly fishing patterns worth their salt. George
I’ve used roadkill for fly fur. — Jeff Potter !.com delete ‘DELETETHIS!’ to reply ***"Out Your Backdoor": Friendly Magazine of DIY Adventure and Culture http://www.glpbooks.com/oyb … with a full line of books, bookstore & forum
Years ago maybe still road-kill pheasants were a popular item for fly tying materials in Northern Colorado. Are they still? I havent but in that are in a long time. Al
could hope to have. Between one of these and a hare’s ear mask, is the best of two worlds. I think most fly tiers take the Pheasant for granted because they are so common. No definitive line of flies have been invented for the use of pheasant feathers except a few basic ones. Frankly, its time the inventive nature of the fly tying fraternity gets on the band wagon and start producing fly fishing patterns worth their salt. George —
John: having lots of trouble sending mail to you hope this worked. John: Hey great!!! That’s what I need. Unfortunately I’m not familiar with the magazine and finding it at the library might not be successful. Not much saltwater flyfishing here in Wisconsin. If it’s not to much trouble, I would appreciate the electronic version mailed to me. I should be able to read the scanned items with out any trouble. Al Hi Al: As I am a teacher I understand exactly what you are saying. The is exactly the information you want in the June/July issue of Salt Water Flyfishing which can be acquired at places like Academy Sporting Goods. The article is entitled the $400 Fishing Machine Conversion. The article can be found on Page 10. The boat transformed is a OMC Lowe Roughneck model 1648VT – a 16 foot boat. The $400 figure refers to the cost of materials used, not the boat. I am thinking of doing this myself. If you can’t find the magazine, I will be happy to scan it for you and e-mail it if you are set up to read picture files such as jpegs or gifs. You can open these with your web browser. I will also be happy to mail you a photocopy of the article if you will supply your mailing address. Sincerely, John J. McGeough – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – As a family man of moderate earnings and a desire for boating and fishing. Purchasing a factory fishing rig is financially out of the question at this time. Until the day comes where I’m able to purchase such a boat I need to look at other alternatives. I would like to know if anyone knows of some recent articles or books on how to transform an older 14* or 16* aluminum boat in to a real fishing rig by adding floors, storage compartments, painting, installing carpet, proper materials to use etc. etc. I see many of these so called *fixed up* boats in the used boat lots but often times the fix up job was done rather poorly and with the wrong materials. If such an articles or other sources exists, I would be interested in knowing about it. Please E-mail me directly Thanks! Al Checkalski
- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – that link is dead, Harry. misspelling? frank As a family man of moderate earnings and a desire for boating and fishing. Purchasing a factory fishing rig is financially out of the <snip Florida Sportsman magazine had a feature recently on such a conversion. Dunno if the story made its web page: www.flsportman.com If not, call them at 305 661 4222 This is the BEST fishing magazine in the United States, bar none. — Harry Krause EMAIL from newsgroup? Remove -nospam from return address – - – - – - – - – - "What I object to is you automatically treat me like an inferior!" –MP
– i screwed it up. Should be www.flsportsman.com But even the right one was not working an hour ago. Harry Krause EMAIL from newsgroup? Remove -nospam from return address – - – - – - – - – - "HLLOWORL.CPP": 17 Errors, 31 Warnings….
Hi Al: As I am a teacher I understand exactly what you are saying. The is exactly the information you want in the June/July issue of Salt Water Flyfishing which can be acquired at places like Academy Sporting Goods. The article is entitled the $400 Fishing Machine Conversion. The article can be found on Page 10. The boat transformed is a OMC Lowe Roughneck model 1648VT – a 16 foot boat. The $400 figure refers to the cost of materials used, not the boat. I am thinking of doing this myself. If you can’t find the magazine, I will be happy to scan it for you and e-mail it if you are set up to read picture files such as jpegs or gifs. You can open these with your web browser. I will also be happy to mail you a photocopy of the article if you will supply your mailing address. Sincerely, John J. McGeough – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – As a family man of moderate earnings and a desire for boating and fishing. Purchasing a factory fishing rig is financially out of the question at this time. Until the day comes where I’m able to purchase such a boat I need to look at other alternatives. I would like to know if anyone knows of some recent articles or books on how to transform an older 14
Ken, Go to Mariott’s in Fullerton, on Orangethorpe, and have them brief you on Bear Creek. I lived in Anaheim two years ago and fished there a number of times after being briefed. It was the only place I found where you could be away from the crowds of Southern CA and catch some good fish in some beautiful surroundings. Small browns, 10 to 12 inches, in a small stream setting. I used a 3 wt outfit and had a ball. Elk hair caddis flies were the ticket then. Good luck! Tom
Ken, The stream that drains the lake at Big Bear has trout in it, but it is a rough one to fish. It is nothing like Hot Creek. — Ernie Harrison Remove NOSPAM to send E-mail GO TO http://users.ccnet.com/~emh FOR ECONOMY WADING BOOTS – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Hi All: Does anyone know if there are any stream’s or creek’s that can be fished near Arrowhead or Bigbear? I live in SO CAL and just started fly fishing this April when I went to Bishop for opening day.Boy am I hooked I had a great time at Hot Creek! Anyway I want to find a place local to fish and learn more. Any advice? Thanks Ken
Hi All: Does anyone know if there are any stream’s or creek’s that can be fished near Arrowhead or Bigbear? I live in SO CAL and just started fly fishing this April when I went to Bishop for opening day.Boy am I hooked I had a great time at Hot Creek! Anyway I want to find a place local to fish and learn more. Any advice? Thanks Ken
I am going to have 3 or 4 days in No. Ark/So. Mo to kill in mid June. Can anyone recomend a guide service? Hope to find some big browns! Thanks, KNACK Whitehouse, TX
Check with Dale Fulton at Blue Ribbon Flies in Mountain Home, Ark. Also, check out Andy McMinn’s Arkansas fly fishing page at: http://kanweb.com/fly/ It’s full of information. Good Luck! Steve Rosenblum
I am going to have 3 or 4 days in No. Ark/So. Mo to kill in mid June.
Sandra, Used to guide in Ark. Here’s a list of guides and phone numbers that will give you the best available in that area. SHOPS: Blue Ribbon Flies – Dale Fulton – (501)or(870) 425-0447 P.J.’s Resort (501) 499-7500 Wapsi Fly (a wholesaler) – ask for T.L. – (501) 425-9500 GUIDES: John Gulley 501-499-7517 Bob Snyder 499-4287 Dwayne Hada 452-3559 (The Woodsman – Ft. Smith) Sandra, the best way to be assured of catching large browns is to night fish, since they are primarily nocturnal feeders. Be sure to have plenty of Gink for your large dries and Xink for the huge nymphs required for those record browns. John Gulley is a pro at night fishing and can definitely put you on some big fish if the time is right when you go up there. Be sure to ask about water conditions and generating schedules for that time of year when you call. I’ve know and fished with John since the mid 70’s but have been out of contact with him for about ten years. John, a seasoned guide, is rather drole and deliberate in his manner. Dwayne Hada, also a personal friend of mine, guides all over that area. I don’t know about Dwayne’s experience with brown trout per-se’. However, Dwayne, a former high school art teacher, is very personable and well mannered. Have Fun – Wendell Hise Snake River – Hell’s Canyon Gink keeps it up – Xink puts it down!