Question:

Chris,    It is difficult to tail a member of the trout family because their tail is not rigid.  Members of the salmon family are easy to tail. Ernie for all my advice, you should have seen me in practice this morning <G.  had a difficult time tailing a fish and when i finally did, it broke me off right there and shot away.  the way things go sometimes.

<snip – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – chris

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Landing steelhead with a double-handed rod has always troubled me. ..

Just break the rod in half – always works for me! RalphH

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I have found that just a plain pair of wool glove allows you to grip the fish’s tail much easier.  Hope this is of help. Kevin

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Chris,    It is difficult to tail a member of the trout family because their tail is not rigid.  Members of the salmon family are easy to tail. Ernie

well, we’ll have to agree to disagree.  i find steelhead much easier to tail than some of the pacific salmon, although they are in the same family as trout and steelhead, maybe you meant the salmo genus. btw, another way to get a handle on the fish is to first grab the leader… yes, sometimes you get cuts on your fingers from doing it.  of course, with all the benfits of a 2-handed rod, landing fish on them without beaching them is one of the drawbacks. chris

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I wouldn’t worry about tailing steelhead I’ve found that they roll on their side and don’t trash. If you back out of the water and lay your rod down and keep tension on the line you can get a hold of the tail and then get your fly out.It’s much easier to release a steelhead than a small trout I haven’t seen anything used to tail a steelhead.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Landing steelhead with a double-handed rod has always troubled me. I have tried to tail them, but my hand is often too small and/or weak to do so. Besides, it seems to take too much time to sufficiently weaken them before trying to tail them. I don’t want to exaust them. So I tend to force the issue as quickly as possible and try to beach them as soon as possible. Most of the time I have been successful in doing so although I have lost a few feisty ones that seemed to hate to touch the beach. I don’t mind losing some; I let all of them go any way afterwards. However, I wonder if beaching them might hurt them. Does anyone have any factual information regarding beaching and health of relatively large fish? Could anyone give me lessons about how to tail them? As much as I love to hook them, I would like to release them safely. Shinji on the Sky well, i don’t think it’s good for a big fish to flop around on rocks and sand, you really want to keep the fish in the water and not have the rocks and sand remove the fish’s slime layer or scales.  i haven’t seen any studies on it, but i believe all info on releasing fish recommends not bringing the fish out of water. what i do is make sure i have some loose line off the reel so that once i tail the fish i can illeviate the line pressure so i don’t break the rod.  i haven’t found that it takes much more time to tire a steelhead out to tail it than to beach it.  if it’s a problem with your hands, i think there are some tailing devices out there… most seem to be fairly long handled, but i’m sure you could cut back the handle.  i know cabelas sells them.  you could also make sure to fish with someone else, who can tail your fish and vice-versa, but that’ll probably decrease fishing days if you must have a partner.  look into some sort of tailing device if you can’t use your hands, because it is better for the fish you plan on releasing. chris

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for all my advice, you should have seen me in practice this morning <G.  had a difficult time tailing a fish and when i finally did, it broke me off right there and shot away.  the way things go sometimes. i agree that it’s not that big of a deal to lose a fish once you’ve touched the leader or made a grab for the tail… but it truly is nice to get ahold of a steelhead every once in awhile just to get a real good look at one and technically land a steelhead <G. chris

Heartily I agree. That’s why I was trying to beach them. I’d like to thank and say good-bye to them in a proper manner. Shinji on the Sky

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______  I always just slip my free under the fish and lift just a little without taking the fish out of the water and I turn it (being on the edge of the river now) into what current there may be.  Usually, I can slip the hook out very easily.  When I want the fish to simply swim off, I lower its weight back off my hand and they will almost surely swim off casually rather then darting off, which confirms the calming affect lifting a fish just a little has on them while still letting them stay in the water. This works especially well when using barbless hooks because they come out much easier without upsetting a fish as will most barbed hooks will.  Barbed hooks go in easy but come out with more difficulty unless you pay attention to the angle of the little slit one should try to back such hooks out.  Barbed hooks are easier to remove with a large pair of forceps.  A secret I use is to use a pair of dikes.  Powerful cutting and pointed pliers that I can snip the hook in half (large hooks with large barbs) just behind the barb if its all the way through.  The barb comes out instantly and the fish is free. Yes, it cost me a fly but when you’ve caught a 12 pound or large Steelhead, the cost of a fly you’ve tied yourself is a small price to pay for such great entertainment.  It always amazes me when watching television fishing shows the great amounts of effort the ‘Pros’ will go to to save a fly at the greater expense and stress and damage to the fish.   Hope these suggestions are somewhat useful gentlemen. Mr. G. — http://www.gink.com/chat

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Chris,   It is difficult to tail a member of the trout family because their tail is not rigid.  Members of the salmon family are easy to tail.

ARRGH! It’s that Salmonid Taxonomy problem again. Trouts and salmons are all in the family Salmonidae. One of the major genera with in that family is _Salmo_, which includes the Atlantic Salmon and the Brown Trout. Another major family is _Onchorynchus_, which includes the Cutthroat, Rainbow, Golden, Gila, Apache trout and all of the Pacific salmons (pink, king, coho, et cetera). The Lake and Brook Trout are in yet two more genera. (Brookies are technically chars, but I still like them anyway. They’ve got spirit.) At any rate, there is no "trout family" that is distinct from the "salmon family." The criterion that I use is based upon tracing evolutionary relationships. The other criterion may be based upon reproductive migrations or on freshwater vs. saltwater, which leaves us screwed in describing sea-run Cutts or Browns or Steelhead. (Genetically, Steelhead are Rainbows. Bigger and migratory, but rainbows none the less.) Opt out == cop-out. What’s so hard to understand?

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The WDFW gives away a nifty little device at most of the sportsmens shows that is simply a dowel with a plate hook on the end of it. I think they even had directions on how to make them in the regs pamphlet. If you were to make one of these short enough to put in your vest you wouldn’t even have to touch the fish. Simply hook the line with the tool and slide the tool to the fishes mouth. Lift the tool up and the fish unhooks itself. It’s the same principle as the "CatchemRelease" tool you spend $20 on (I have one I use for trout and love it!).  It’s one of the best devices for fishing I have found. It’s simple and better yet it works! Gary

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- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Landing steelhead with a double-handed rod has always troubled me. I have tried to tail them, but my hand is often too small and/or weak to do so. Besides, it seems to take too much time to sufficiently weaken them before trying to tail them. I don’t want to exaust them. So I tend to force the issue as quickly as possible and try to beach them as soon as possible. Most of the time I have been successful in doing so although I have lost a few feisty ones that seemed to hate to touch the beach. I don’t mind losing some; I let all of them go any way afterwards. However, I wonder if beaching them might hurt them. Does anyone have any factual information regarding beaching and health of relatively large fish? Could anyone give me lessons about how to tail them? As much as I love to hook them, I would like to release them safely. Shinji on the Sky

well, i don’t think it’s good for a big fish to flop around on rocks and sand, you really want to keep the fish in the water and not have the rocks and sand remove the fish’s slime layer or scales.  i haven’t seen any studies on it, but i believe all info on releasing fish recommends not bringing the fish out of water. what i do is make sure i have some loose line off the reel so that once i tail the fish i can illeviate the line pressure so i don’t break the rod.  i haven’t found that it takes much more time to tire a steelhead out to tail it than to beach it.  if it’s a problem with your hands, i think there are some tailing devices out there… most seem to be fairly long handled, but i’m sure you could cut back the handle.  i know cabelas sells them.  you could also make sure to fish with someone else, who can tail your fish and vice-versa, but that’ll probably decrease fishing days if you must have a partner.  look into some sort of tailing device if you can’t use your hands, because it is better for the fish you plan on releasing. chris

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Landing steelhead with a double-handed rod has always troubled me. I have tried to tail them, but my hand is often too small and/or weak to do so. Besides, it seems to take too much time to sufficiently weaken them before trying to tail them. I don’t want to exaust them. So I tend to force the issue as quickly as possible and try to beach them as soon as possible. Most of the time I have been successful in doing so although I have lost a few feisty ones that seemed to hate to touch the beach. I don’t mind losing some; I let all of them go any way afterwards. However, I wonder if beaching them might hurt them. Does anyone have any factual information regarding beaching and health of relatively large fish? Could anyone give me lessons about how to tail them? As much as I love to hook them, I would like to release them safely. Shinji on the Sky

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- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – well, i don’t think it’s good for a big fish to flop around on rocks and sand, you really want to keep the fish in the water and not have the rocks and sand remove the fish’s slime layer or scales.  i haven’t seen any studies on it, but i believe all info on releasing fish recommends not bringing the fish out of water. what i do is make sure i have some loose line off the reel so that once i tail the fish i can illeviate the line pressure so i don’t break the rod.  i haven’t found that it takes much more time to tire a steelhead out to tail it than to beach it.  if it’s a problem with your hands, i think there are some tailing devices out there… most seem to be fairly long handled, but i’m sure you could cut back the handle.  i know cabelas sells them.  you could also make sure to fish with someone else, who can tail your fish and vice-versa, but that’ll probably decrease fishing days if you must have a partner.  look into some sort of tailing device if you can’t use your hands, because it is better for the fish you plan on releasing. chris

Thanks. Reading your posting, I realize what a fool I was. Why do I have to worry about losing fish while trying to tail them? After all, I am tailing them in order to release them! Shinji on the Sky

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- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – well, i don’t think it’s good for a big fish to flop around on rocks and sand, you really want to keep the fish in the water and not have the rocks and sand remove the fish’s slime layer or scales.  i haven’t seen any studies on it, but i believe all info on releasing fish recommends not bringing the fish out of water. what i do is make sure i have some loose line off the reel so that once i tail the fish i can illeviate the line pressure so i don’t break the rod.  i haven’t found that it takes much more time to tire a steelhead out to tail it than to beach it.  if it’s a problem with your hands, i think there are some tailing devices out there… most seem to be fairly long handled, but i’m sure you could cut back the handle.  i know cabelas sells them.  you could also make sure to fish with someone else, who can tail your fish and vice-versa, but that’ll probably decrease fishing days if you must have a partner.  look into some sort of tailing device if you can’t use your hands, because it is better for the fish you plan on releasing. chris Thanks. Reading your posting, I realize what a fool I was. Why do I have to worry about losing fish while trying to tail them? After all, I am tailing them in order to release them! Shinji on the Sky

for all my advice, you should have seen me in practice this morning <G.  had a difficult time tailing a fish and when i finally did, it broke me off right there and shot away.  the way things go sometimes. i agree that it’s not that big of a deal to lose a fish once you’ve touched the leader or made a grab for the tail… but it truly is nice to get ahold of a steelhead every once in awhile just to get a real good look at one and technically land a steelhead <G. chris

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Question:

Do you know good river like Big Horn? I came from Italy to USA in August for flyfishing holiday. My trip start in Oregon for Wyoming and go-back. I know only the Umpqua and the Deschutes, the Big  Horn and Shoshone Ok for C&R. Thank you for informations Giovanni Bartolozzi  Il Martin Pescatore Mosca Club

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I live in Bend, Oregon.  I can help you with lots of questions on fly fishing in Central Oregon.  I mostly do stillwater fishing. But can get answers to any questions you might have.  chow  gjbend

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Will be in bend 1st week of April. Do you think davis Lake will be accessable and is a float tube adequate?

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I think thats what the rumor is that Davis wood be accessable April 1.  I have my doubts tho.  I fished Fall River Tues. and the parking lot still has 2 feet of snow and had to park on the hwy.  Fall River and Crooked might be an option.  Actually, Chickahomany(sp) should be thawed and  ready too.  Good luck.

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Geeez….would   not wood.  Saw that as I sent.  :(

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How was fall river, BWO’s?

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If the weathers keeps warm you might try BWO.  I used a #20 black midge with cdc wing that worked great. The fish were lightly nibbleing at the surface so just drifted fly about 2 inches below the surface.  If you have ever fished there you know what its like to watch the fish suck up your fly.

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Question:

I will be in Jackson, WY for a meeting Aug 21-25, an annual event.  I usually try to spend a few afternoons on Flat Creek in the Refuge.  Does anyone have any current information on how it’s doing so far this summer??  Does anyone know of any other spring creek fishing accessible without going through a fly shop or guide.  I don’t mind a rod fee, but have been fly fishing for 30 years and prefer to fish on my own.  Thanks. T. Mann

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I will be in Jackson, WY for a meeting Aug 21-25, an annual event.  I usually try to spend a few afternoons on Flat Creek in the Refuge.  Does anyone have any current information on how it’s doing so far this summer??  Does anyone know of any other spring creek fishing accessible without going through a fly shop or guide.  I don’t mind a rod fee, but have been fly fishing for 30 years and prefer to fish on my own.  Thanks. T. Mann

I was just in Jackson this week. Just south, beyond the Hoback Junction, Hoback Creek and Granite Creek meet. I was talking to a few people in our campground (Granite Creek Campground) and they were pulling some fairly decent sized trout from Granite Creek. It is about a 20-30 minute drive south, depending on the road construction. (It was pretty bad a couple of days.) You may want to check it out. It wasn’t heavily fished while I was there.

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Question:

What size tippet are you using, and what knot are you using to tie on your fly?  I fish for bass and panfish with a 5X tippet and do fine (bluegill up to maybe 6 inches, bass to about 15 inches).  Used to lose a lot of flies before I switched from an improved clinch knot to a Duncan loop/Uniknot – since then I haven’t had problems with losing flies.  Hope this helps. — Bob Jarvis Mail address hacked to foil spammers! – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Help, I am an intermediate fly fisherman who is used to catching pan fish.  Lately I have been doing a little better but am having trouble sacrificing my fly  to the God of fish.  Is there a good techniqe out there for running drag on a fairly light rig when catching a big fish.  I have been using the palm of my right hand to self adjust the drag once the fish is on but seem to have a heavy touch.  Any advice? thanks.

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Help, I am an intermediate fly fisherman who is used to catching pan fish.  Lately I have been doing a little better but am having trouble sacrificing my fly  to the God of fish.  Is there a good techniqe out there for running drag on a fairly light rig when catching a big fish.  I have been using the palm of my right hand to self adjust the drag once the fish is on but seem to have a heavy touch.  Any advice? thanks.

Hi Sky, I set the drag just heavy enough to keep the reel from back lashing or over running when I quickly pull some line off the reel. I then add more drag or resistance with my fingers on the fly line or use the rim control drag. I would then be sure that you have the right size tippet to match your fly size. Make sure that your leader/tippet is fresh and your knots are good. For #10, 12 & 14 dries I would use 5x tippet. For #16, 18 & 20 I would use 6x tippet.(7x later) For #8, 10 & 12 wet flies and nymphs I would use 3x tippet. For #14, 16 & 18 wet flies and nymphs I would use 4x tippet.(5x later) This is a chart I give to anglers that are just getting started. It is just for a rough guide and to get them thinking about using different size tippets with different size flies. Bill Kiene Kiene’s Fly Shop Sacramento,CA,USA 800/4000FLY www.kiene.com

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Breakoffs are the result of both reel drag and rod flex at the tip. A slower rod ie more flexible acts as a shock absorber to the fishes sudden movements and cushions the leader and light tippet. The drag is for breaking the fish’s runs (longer distance moves). I don’t know many fisherman that can use the old palm drag technique without just a little too much pressure just for a split secound that gives the fish your fly. Many reels have good drags like Lamson and Abel (and Cortland etc for the cheaper ones) I like the Bauer and other large arbor reels because their drag is the smoothest and most adjustable. I also have a Rhyle (sp?) which is resonably expensive and the drag is terrible. You keep having to reset it with a fish on. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Help, I am an intermediate fly fisherman who is used to catching pan fish. Lately I have been doing a little better but am having trouble sacrificing my fly  to the God of fish.  Is there a good techniqe out there for running drag on a fairly light rig when catching a big fish.  I have been using the palm of my right hand to self adjust the drag once the fish is on but seem to have a heavy touch.  Any advice? thanks.

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You’ll probably get  a response from TimW, Halfordian Golfer on this one… He’s the one that usually works in drag in this NG…. #:)#

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Help, I am an intermediate fly fisherman who is used to catching pan fish.  Lately I have been doing a little better but am having trouble sacrificing my fly  to the God of fish.  Is there a good techniqe out there for running drag on a fairly light rig when catching a big fish.  I have been using the palm of my right hand to self adjust the drag once the fish is on but seem to have a heavy touch.  Any advice? thanks.

Response:

I am an intermediate fly fisherman who is used to catching pan fish.  Lately I have been doing a little better but am having trouble sacrificing my fly  to the God of fish.  Is there a good techniqe out there for running drag on a fairly light rig when catching a big fish.  I have been using the palm of my right hand to self adjust the drag once the fish is on but seem to have a heavy touch.  Any advice?

You are obviously holding harder than you need. Have a look at books on Pennsylvania fly fishing for trout, where tiny flies require light leaders, e.g. Ed Koch’s Fishing the Midge (1972).  There is a consensus there that even with big fish (say 5 lb.) the rod and guides provide about as much drag as the tippet can endure, depending on how high up you point the rod and how much the rod bends.  For this fishing, reel drag is minimal, i.e. just enough to prevent overrun. I.e. drag depends on the bend of the rod more than the resistance of the reel.  You even see this on salmon rivers where fish run 20 lb.  Reel drag setting is secondary to making the bend of the rod tire out the hooked fish. — |  Donald Phillipson, 4180 Boundary Road, Carlsbad Springs,  | |        Ontario, Canada, K0A 1K0, tel. 613 822 0734         |

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Help, I am an intermediate fly fisherman who is used to catching pan fish.  Lately I have been doing a little better but am having trouble sacrificing my fly  to the God of fish.  Is there a good techniqe out there for running drag on a fairly light rig when catching a big fish.  I have been using the palm of my right hand to self adjust the drag once the fish is on but seem to have a heavy touch.  Any advice? thanks.

A top quality fly reel will have an excellent, working drag.  I use Penn International reels…great drag, great reel, expensive but worth it if you hook lots of big fish. — Don Jordan "The Real Indiana Jones" http://realindy.com

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Question:

An all too typical novice question: Present tackle is mainly spinning gear. light rod/reel, 6lb line, used for panfish, trout in samll lakes, bass, etc. Would like to add fly tackle to fish for the same species. Will use the fly tackle here in midwest (SW Ohio, Kentucky, Indiana- lake & small streams) and in Montana, as my son will be in school there(Missoula)and I expect to get there a few times annually. Any recommendations for type, make, budget? What are the better beginner setups? Have looked at Orvis, L.L. Bean catalogs, etc. What do I really need to get started?

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Any recommendations for type, make, budget? What are the better beginner setups? Have looked at Orvis, L.L. Bean catalogs, etc. What do I really need to get started?

Hi Barry I recommend you contact your local fly shop and work with them. Cortland has some nice starter fly rods or you might consider a St.Croix or Reddington. Also ask your local fly shop if they rent rods. Most fly shops do rent equipment and also sell that equipment at the end of the season for a reasonable price. Also if you’ve never fly fished before do yourself a big favor and invest in a casting lesson or two. One hour spent with a casting instructor will save you years of trying to learn by yourself. If your local shop does not have an instructor (not very likely) you can contact the Federation of Fly Fishers and get the name of a Certified instructor near you or the name of the affiliate club near you. If you join the club you can learn from a friend. — Tight Lines ….. Al Beatty BT’s Fly Fishing Products On line catalog – tips & tricks at: http://www.btsflyfishing.com

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– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -An all too typical novice question: Present tackle is mainly spinning gear. light rod/reel, 6lb line, used for panfish, trout in samll lakes, bass, etc. Would like to add fly tackle to fish for the same species. Will use the fly tackle here in midwest (SW Ohio, Kentucky, Indiana- lake & small streams) and in Montana, as my son will be in school there(Missoula)and I expect to get there a few times annually. Any recommendations for type, make, budget? What are the better beginner setups? Have looked at Orvis, L.L. Bean catalogs, etc. What do I really need to get started?

I’m sure there are some who will disagree, but check the beginner packages in Cabela’s catalog. They also have higher end stuff. When I started 3 years ago, I purchased a 9′ – 6wt. Pfleuger rod and reel combo for about $120.00. It’s a low-budget set-up but quality enough to let you learn to cast and make a halfway smooth transition to a better rod when your ready. If you go buy a $50.00 rod, it will be harder. I’d recommend spending no more than $200.00 for rod, reel, backing, and line if you’re a beginner. A 30 year flyfisher gave me that advice. I still use that rod, it’s great. Have fun. For what it’s worth, TC

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Question:

Looking for a 3 wt. rod St Croix Imperials-any experience or comments?

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I have 3 St. Croix Rods (ledgend series) and I think they are a super value. They cast smoothly and have a modulous of graphite equivalent to more expensive rods.  I highly recommend them. Woollyworm

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I bought a 9′ 3-4 wt. St. Croix Imperial this summer for bluegill and am very pleased with it.  The rod is nicely finished and handles a 4wt FWF line very well.  I was originally concerned that a 4wt. might be too light to cast larger panfish poppers, but it casts up to a #6 popper or hair bug with no problems.  At $100 it would be hard to beat.   —

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Been dealing with St. Croix rods for seven years.  Excellent products for the dollar.  The Imperial is available in a 7′ 3/4 or 9′ 3/4.  Both are a high-modulus, relatively fast rods.  Current price as of 10/95 $110 and $120.  You want-I’ve got. E-mail

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St. Croix rods great deal for the money.  Been selling them for 7 years. 2 models avail. in Imperial 3wt.  7foot and 9foot Current prices are $110 and $120 respectively.  Interested? e-mail

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        I couldn’t agree more with the sentiments about St. Croix rods. If you want a Sage rod for half the price, buy a St. Croix Legend series. Lifetime warranty included. It’s not quite as nice a reel seat, but the fish, the fly, and the fly line don’t really care.

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writes: St Croix’s lightest rod is a 7′ 3/4 weight which IMO casts best with a 4 wt line.  It’s a very nice rod for the money.  You can’t get a better rod anywhere even if you spend twice the money or more.  Just too bad they use such a cheezy reel seat, but that’s one way to help keep the price down. IMO, St Croix is an excellent dollar value.

RJ, the "cheesy" reel seat you refer to is not necessarily there for higher profit, even the big names (Orvis, LL Bean, etc.) use aluminum bands on the small light rods, for the weight saving gained in not using wood/metal for a reel seat. I happen to like mine, even preferring the bands to the standard reel seat. Looks cool too. Frank Church Goshen, In

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Right on Jim, if you’ve read my earlier posts on St Croix rods, you know I believe they are the best buy on the market for the money. I have Sage rods to compare them with, and my little 7 footer holds it’s own against Sage. (maybe not in overall quality, but what do the bluegills care??) Frank Church Goshen, In

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- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – writes: St Croix’s lightest rod is a 7′ 3/4 weight which IMO casts best with a 4 wt line.  It’s a very nice rod for the money.  You can’t get a better rod anywhere even if you spend twice the money or more.  Just too bad they use such a cheezy reel seat, but that’s one way to help keep the price down. IMO, St Croix is an excellent dollar value. RJ, the "cheesy" reel seat you refer to is not necessarily there for higher profit, even the big names (Orvis, LL Bean, etc.) use aluminum bands on the small light rods, for the weight saving gained in not using wood/metal for a reel seat. I happen to like mine, even preferring the bands to the standard reel seat. Looks cool too. Frank Church Goshen, In

 Frank, I agree with you.  I like slip rings, or cap and ring seats and put them  on all the light rods I build.  I was referring to the standard, oversized,  all aluminum, down-locking ones that St. Crx puts on most of their  rods except the Legend series.  I wasn’t aware that St. Crx was using slip  rings on their 7′ model yet/again/for the first time.  From visits to their  factory showroom it’s my impression that they’re a little inconsistent as to  what type of seat they put on that model.  It deserves a light slip ring  seat, not a clunky aluminum one.  - Rj

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Right on Woolworm, I think these rods are an excellent buy and am surprised that they don’t get more mention when someone is looking for a moderately priced rod. Maybe if they offered a "starter" package like Orvis, Sage, Cortland, et al. they might get a little more attention.

Ahhh, there’s the rub! The rods included in the Cortland starter package are made by St. Croix. And pretty durn nice they are, too. I fished with a Cortland 6wt for years, when I couldn’t afford to own five different rods. My wife uses it now, since I’ve aquired the St. Croix 4-5wt 4 piece pack rod. I LIKE IT! Last month I broke it in fishing for cutts in Rocky Mtn. National Park, and it exceeded my expectations of a travel rod. Primo! — And the Lord put aside his huge cigar…-F.Zappa

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After years of fly fishing for pan fish & bass in Nebraska (but not much fishing done in the past 8 years, or so), I’m looking forward to fly fishing for trout after moving to Wyoming.  I’ve been using a Fenwick, 4 piece-7 foot, fiberglass rod with a 6 wt, weight forward line.  The Fenwick must be 20-25 years old.  The reel is a Pflueger Medalist.   I lived in an area where no one fly fished and I haven’t kept up on the advancements in rods.  Since moving to Wyoming, I’ve taken a fly tying class which was great fun and I’m really looking forward to heading to the mountains.  I imagine that there is a vast improvement with the grahpite rods.  I’ve been looking at the St. Croix, Imperial rods in the 5/6 weight.  A couple of people that I’ve visited with suggested the travel rods. Others seem to think that two piece rods work a little better.  I thought since I already have a travel rod (even though it’s old and not state of the art) that perhaps I should buy the two piece rod, although, when hiking into the Cloud Peak wilderness area the two piece rod might be a little cumbersome.   Do you give up anything in going with the 4 piece rod?  Which rod length would be best, the 8′ 6" or the 9′?  I can’t imagine that 6 inches would make much of a difference but it must or they wouldn’t make the two lengths.  I’ll be doing mainly small stream and pond fishing and will probably be buying a float tube.   Thanks for any advice that you might offer to this fly fishing novice.   Would you mind e-mailing me in addition to posting to the group as my news server doesn’t get all of the messages. Thanks, — To reply, remove one "bs" from E-mail address — To reply, remove one "bs" from E-mail address

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Go with the 9 ft. rod. Travel rod if you truly intend air travel with it. therwise don’t bother

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- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – After years of fly fishing for pan fish & bass in Nebraska (but not much fishing done in the past 8 years, or so), I’m looking forward to fly fishing for trout after moving to Wyoming.  I’ve been using a Fenwick, 4 piece-7 foot, fiberglass rod with a 6 wt, weight forward line.  The Fenwick must be 20-25 years old.  The reel is a Pflueger Medalist.  I lived in an area where no one fly fished and I haven’t kept up on the advancements in rods.  Since moving to Wyoming, I’ve taken a fly tying class which was great fun and I’m really looking forward to heading to the mountains.  I imagine that there is a vast improvement with the grahpite rods.  I’ve been looking at the St. Croix, Imperial rods in the 5/6 weight.  A couple of people that I’ve visited with suggested the travel rods. Others seem to think that two piece rods work a little better.  I thought since I already have a travel rod (even though it’s old and not state of the art) that perhaps I should buy the two piece rod, although, when hiking into the Cloud Peak wilderness area the two piece rod might be a little cumbersome.  Do you give up anything in going with the 4 piece rod?  Which rod length would be best, the 8′ 6" or the 9′?  I can’t imagine that 6 inches would make much of a difference but it must or they wouldn’t make the two lengths.  I’ll be doing mainly small stream and pond fishing and will probably be buying a float tube.  Thanks for any advice that you might offer to this fly fishing novice.  Would you mind e-mailing me in addition to posting to the group as my news server doesn’t get all of the messages. Thanks, — To reply, remove one "bs" from E-mail address — To reply, remove one "bs" from E-mail address

If you are planning on using a float tube the 9′ is better. St. Croix rods are one of the best buys for the money. You give up very little in a graphite 4 piece rod compared to a 2 piece.   Joel Axelrad

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Guy, I believe that my 5 wt Legend is 44 million mod. graphite, and I know its super fast.  I toss big stillwater streamer and such.  It needs a good deal of line to even load.  If you like fast the Legend is it, but in 2 -3 -4 wts I prefer slower actions, Sage LL, Powell SS and LG.  If you do too, look into the Imperial line. jg – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -St  Croix. What type of graphite is used and how would the actions be classified? I am interested in the 3-4 wt rods. Any comments pertinent to these rods are appreciated. Thanks.

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I own two St. Croix Imperial rods and they are very different from each other.  One of the rods is a 7 ft. 6 in. 4/5 wt and the other is a 9 ft. 6 in. 7/8 wt.  The 4/5 wt has a fast action, roll casts well, but can be difficult with short overhead or sidearm casts.  The 7/8 wt. has more of a moderate action.  I am not sure if the entire series of rods can be classified as having one particular action.  Don’t really know what type of graphite is used. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I would like to find out more about the Imperial and Legend rods from St Croix. What type of graphite is used and how would the actions be classified? I am interested in the 3-4 wt rods. Any comments pertinent to these rods are appreciated. Thanks. Guy

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   I would like to find out more about the Imperial and Legend    rods from St Croix. What type of graphite is used and how    would the actions be classified? I am interested in the 3-4    wt rods. Any comments pertinent to these rods are    appreciated. Thanks.    Guy    Search, Read, Post to Usenet My wife has the St. Croix Imperial 5/6 wt. 8′6" 4-piece.  I’d call it a softer, "medium action" rod (compared with my Sage RPL 6 wt.).  It casts nicely, and the price was right. John Y. Liu via HP200LX palmtop Net-Tamer V 1.06H For HP100/200 & OG700 – Registered

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I would like to find out more about the Imperial and Legend rods from St Croix. What type of graphite is used and how would the actions be classified? I am interested in the 3-4 wt rods. Any comments pertinent to these rods are appreciated. Thanks. Guy

    I don’t know the type of graphite St.Croix uses but I do own 2 Imperials, a 6-7 and  7-8, they are both medium fast. I also own a Cortland 3-4 which is a St.Croix blank and it is medium.    My stepson owns a Legend, its on the fast side of medium fast and a bit lighter than the Imperial line. His Legend is also a 7-8 by 9 ft. 6in. as is my Imperial, so it makes a reasonable comparison.   My son owns a6-7 Imperial also but its an earlyer model than ours and"softer". My origanal6-7 was the same way(now broken).These early ones are gray in color and the later are brown, they do not have the same action.   We also own Sage rods in our family and St. Croix’s work well but they require more effort and the line control is less precise. Sage’s are great and unconditinaly guarateed for life and a guy can be in the "Discovery" series for very few dollars above the Legend, check it out!                       DAVE G.

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I would like to find out more about the Imperial and Legend rods from St Croix. What type of graphite is used and how would the actions be classified? I am interested in the 3-4 wt rods. Any comments pertinent to these rods are appreciated. Thanks. Guy

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Question:

I have a South Bend bamboo 9′ rod( 2-tips) with only the markings of 57-9′ on it. Can anyone tell me what the 57 means and what weight the rod is. Thanks,

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I have a South Bend bamboo 9′ rod( 2-tips) with only the markings of 57-9′ on it. Can anyone tell me what the 57 means and what weight the rod is. Thanks,

From my limited knowledge, I belive the 57 refers to the rod’s taper and quality ranking within the South Bend family of rods. The 57 was a low to medium priced rod with South Bend’s Bass Action  (fast action). If there are no marking or decals on the rod itself (possibly removed in a prior refinish), its difficult to determine much more. — Visit Dave Teffeteller’s Fly Fishing Guides page http://www.olfart.com

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The "57" indicates that is, in-fact, a model 57 and the 9, well, you guessed it, it’s a 9 footer!  The 57 was a "bass action" rod and was at the low end of the South Bend line. With a little more info such as reelseat type, grip type, ferrule type and wrap color the date of the rod could be narrowed down a bit. Dave

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I have a South Bend bamboo 9′ rod( 2-tips) with only the markings of 57-9′ on it. Can anyone tell me what the 57 means and what weight the rod is. Thanks,

The "57" refers to the model number (Model 57).  I would guess that it would take a 7 or 8 weight line. –Rich

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In regards to the South Bend 57-9. It was their lowest quality level rod. It should cast a 7 or 8 weight line well and is worth about $50.00.

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In regards to the South Bend 57-9. It was their lowest quality level rod. It should cast a 7 or 8 weight line well and is worth about $50.00.

I have a 59 -9′ Southbend Bamboo Rod (was my Dad’s) /w Pfluger reel, I would like to restore it.  I have both tips.  some  snake guides are missing.   any info?????

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writes: In regards to the South Bend 57-9. It was their lowest quality level rod. It should cast a 7 or 8 weight line well and is worth about $50.00. I have a 59 -9′ Southbend Bamboo Rod (was my Dad’s) /w Pfluger reel, I would like to restore it.  I have both tips.  some  snake guides are missing.   any info?????

Buy a copy of Michael Sinclair’s "Bamboo Rod Restoration Handbook" for $25.00 (US) – ISBN #1-882418-11-5 As for Snake guides, Try to find Perfection snakes, they’ll match the originals, but I’ve been told that Perfection has converted over to a new mfg. process and has had delivery problems. Order an Angler’s Workshop catalog for a good selection of silk thread, both Godebrod and YLI (sold as Angler’s brand). A.W. # — (360) 225-9445 Don B. PS – I’m looking for smaller size Perfection guides (smaller than #2’s) if anyone has them for sale – please e-mail me.

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     I just inherited a South Bend bamboo rod, rod #323, 9′ length. The rod has a cloth bag, and is a three-piece with an extra tip section.  Can anybody give me an idea how old the rod is, what the rod might be worth, and  what line weight might be best?     A couple of the ferrules are loose, but other than that everything seems fine.  Can I just epoxy the ferrules, or should I give the rod a more thorough refinishing? Ed Heist College Station, TX (140 miles northeast of one of several Guadalupe Rivers)

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- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text –     I just inherited a South Bend bamboo rod, rod #323, 9′ length. The rod has a cloth bag, and is a three-piece with an extra tip section.  Can anybody give me an idea how old the rod is, what the rod might be worth, and  what line weight might be best?    A couple of the ferrules are loose, but other than that everything seems fine.  Can I just epoxy the ferrules, or should I give the rod a more thorough refinishing? Ed Heist College Station, TX (140 miles northeast of one of several Guadalupe Rivers)

Ed, Try this url:    http://www.gorp.com/bamboo.htm     Also, buy a copy of Michael Sinclair’s "Bamboo Rod Restoration Handbook" a great book for do-it-yourself production bamboo rod restorations. If you try to remove the ferrules, look for small pins holding them on! Don

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Question:

My wife and I attended a 4-day Orvis flyfishing class at Clearwater House in July five years ago.  We had Orvis instructors (Dan Gracia, who posts to this group, was one) rather than the Clearwater House guides, but the "hearsay" I have since picked up from time to time has been positive.  I can attest that the accomodations are nice, the location is great, and that when we were there the food was excellent.  If you go, please tell me how it turned out.                        Dopug Larson, Glendale, CA

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I also cannot say enough about Clearwater House.  I’ve stayed there three times before and have booked two classes there for the upcoming year.  The staff and guides are excellent!  The Area is beautiful, and the house itself has a terrific "homey" feeling.  If you’re thinking of staying there … do it! Kim Woodward – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – If you have stayed at the Clearwater House on Hat Creek, I would appreciate feedback regarding the guides, fishing experience, lodging and food. Thanks!  S. Brainerd

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(Sherry Brainerd) writes: If you have stayed at the Clearwater House on Hat Creek, I would appreciate feedback regarding the guides, fishing experience, lodging and food.

We run some of our schools at the Clearwater House and I have to tell you the place is first rate.  It’s basically a bed and breakfast type place that caters to fly fishers and serves all meals, not just breakfast.  Noel and company set entirely too good a table and the setting is really pretty – nestled in between Mt Shasta and Mt. Lassen.  Last year had a friendly raven (the bird) that would fly down to your feet and walk around with you for a while.  I reached out towards it and it tried to remove my wedding ring off of my finger with its beak.  Lot’s of wildlife such as deer, osprey, Canada geese, muskrat, otters, etc.  Good fishing is right out the back door and you can fish Hat Creek, The Pit River, Fall River, the McCloud River or float tube if you like up at Lake Manzanita.  Great spot.  All of Dick’s guides are top rate.  If you have a copy of the latest California Fly Fisher, the young lady on the cover is not quite as young as she looks.  Marishka is ~20 and went through Dick’s apprentice guide program a couple of years ago.  She still guides for him periodically and she is an accomplished fly fisher, fly tyer, and guide.  Don’t hesitate to ask about the various guides specialties as they bring a wide variety of techniques to fishing the available water.  I’ve actually stayed in the house twice in the last 5 years, and it’s a far cry from the "guides ghetto" (next to the their tackle shop) where I usually bunk.  It is the only Orvis Endorsed Lodge in California.  If you get a chance to go, GO! Don’t eat too much and watch out for that bottomless jar of homemade chocolate chip or oatmeal raisin cookies.                                                           Dan Dan Gracia                                                               Orvis West Coast Fly Fishing Schools If you kill that big fish you can’t catch ‘em again.  So what if they eat other fish?  If you kill the big ones there will only be little ones left (funny how that works!).

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If you have stayed at the Clearwater House on Hat Creek, I would appreciate feedback regarding the guides, fishing experience, lodging and food. Thanks!  S. Brainerd

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If you have stayed at the Clearwater House on Hat Creek, I would appreciate feedback regarding the guides, fishing experience, lodging and food.

Nothing but good things to say about Dick Galland and Clearwater. I stayed there many years ago before the present arrangement (with cooking and all) but even then, thought the hospitality and advice was excellent. I see Dick occassionally when walking the path near his place while fishing the waters nearby.                 Draper, Utah Wherever you go….. There you will be

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Question:

I am interested in taking lessons on building bamboo rods.  Do you know of any experts who teach classes, especially a one week intensive course.  I have read the books but believe I need to be taught by someone who really knows what they are doing.  Any ideas?

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I am interested in taking lessons on building bamboo rods.  Do you know of any experts who teach classes, especially a one week intensive course.  I have read the books but believe I need to be taught by someone who really knows what they are doing.  Any ideas?

Another rod maker that offers classes is George E. Maurer of SweetWater Rods 610-683-6759 By the way the Catskill rodmakers gathering was a great experience

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Anybody go to the Cane rod builders gathering at the Cattskill Fly Fishing Museum today.  How did it go? Rick

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 Anybody go to the Cane rod builders gathering at the Cattskill Fly Fishing  Museum today.  How did it go?

My wife and I attended.  It was our first meeting, but several who had attended other gatherings of rod-builders–one man said he’d made them all!–said it was the best yet.   I can believe it.  There were about 35 of us, including a nice mix of beginners and old hands.  The experienced builders, among them, had more knowledge and more willingness to share it than I’ve seen in any comparable group in other fields.  Nice folks!  And the level of enthusiasm was such as to convert a casual visitor from "gee, that might be interesting" to "Where’s my checkbook?  I need CANE!"  Wherever the next meeting is, we’ll try hard to get there.  With one or two shiny new bamboo rods.

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Question:

I live just outside of Washington DC and I was wondering where y’all think the best winter fly fishing is in this area.  It doesn’t have to be in my backyard, with in a few hours drive is alright.  It doesn’t have to be great fishing either, just to dip my line in some water would be nice. An overall query—if you could get any fishing related item for the Christmas, what would it be?  Essentially, what is at the top of a fly fisherman’s wish list?  

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An overall query—if you could get any fishing related item for the Christmas, what would it be?  Essentially, what is at the top of a fly fisherman’s wish list?  

I wish Santa would bring me a girlfriend who loves to flyfish. He wouldn’t even have to wrap her for me, he can just drop her off naked. —                   Flyfishers do it with longer rods

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: I live just outside of Washington DC and I was wondering where y’all think : the best winter fly fishing is in this area.  It doesn’t have to be in my : backyard, with in a few hours drive is alright.  It doesn’t have to be : great fishing either, just to dip my line in some water would be nice. If you are in DC, then try my old favorites  The Gunpowder below Prettybow Dam in Baltimore County, and Hunting Creek, near Thurmont in Frederick County. For the past two years, I caught (I belive the same) 23" brown on a GR-Hare’s Ear during January at Hunting Creek. I just moved to Oregon, and I’m sure I’ll miss these places. : An overall query—if you could get any fishing related item for the : Christmas, what would it be?  Essentially, what is at the top of a fly : fisherman’s wish list?   Leaders, tippets, water-proof throwaway camera to take photos of the great C&R’s. Fingerless neoprene gloves for cold-weather angling. Merry Xmas – Cameron Thomas

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: I live just outside of Washington DC and I was wondering where y’all think : the best winter fly fishing is in this area.  It doesn’t have to be in my : backyard, with in a few hours drive is alright.  It doesn’t have to be : great fishing either, just to dip my line in some water would be nice. : An overall query—if you could get any fishing related item for the : Christmas, what would it be?  Essentially, what is at the top of a fly : fisherman’s wish list?           If you just have the need to wet you’re lines and catch some fish, you can head to Dikerson (sp?).  The warm-water chute (where the kayakers practice in the winter) provides some pretty decent fishing throughout the winter.  Lots of big feisty blue-gills & some decent smallmouth action can be had too.  Never had much luck with the smallmouths though — of course I’ve only been up there 2 or 3 times.   Check out the rec. department for winter fishing courses.         As for the gift — how about either:                         1)  A private lake somewhere in canada with 500                             coupons for free flights or,                         2)  A condo on a small island off Florida with                             the same.

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