Question:

In San Francisco, some years back, a woman was arrested because she had a live hand grenade in her purse. There was a fishing line leading from her belt to the pin, so that if someone snatched her purse, it would shortly explode, killing the purse snatcher. While I do not feel too bad about the purse snatcher, as the police pointed out, there might be considerable carnage among innocent bystanders. I don’t remember what the legal outcome of the case was, probably an "illegal possession" charge. Boyd — "The cure for boredom is curiosity. There is no cure for curiosity." (Ellen Parr- author) – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Just to support an earlier statement… see men leave the privates alone…… Mike A Purse-Snatcher’s Worse Nightmare? ROME (Reuters) – Being caught and surrounded by an entire rugby team may just be one of a purse-snatcher’s worst nightmares. And yet, it happened for real to a man who snatched a woman’s purse in the northern Italian city of Bologna. The snatching happened close to a hotel where Serie A teams Benetton Treviso and Fly Flot Cavisano were about to hold a news conference. The pickpocket was spotted by two Benetton team members who ran after him, Italy’s Rugby Federation said in a statement. The two — Andrea Gritti and Massimiliano Perziano — are both full internationals. Lock forward Gritti is two meters tall and weighs an imposing 107 kg while winger Perziano is one of the quickest players in the country. The purse-snatcher, followed by the two players, sought refuge in a kindergarten, which was quickly surrounded by the whole Benetton team. The man was arrested a few minutes later by police. Benetton Treviso and Fly Flot Cavisano are due to play the decisive game for the Serie A championship title on Saturday. All opinions expressed are mine unless otherwise noted. Copyright

Question:

So Charlie, I’d be making that H&H, you need the length for mending and for keeping the fly out of the crap behind you, on the backcast.

Thanks, I’ll get the parts ordered. — Charlie…

Response:

Charlie Choc: I’d need a 6wt (looking for an excuse to build a rod, actually<g). —

Build.  Build.  Build.  Tell the OWMBO that I said so. Dave Dave LaCourse

Response:

Uh, I hit send before I was finished.  More to follow. All of the fish I caught were on a 9 foot four weight with WF4F line.  A  6 weight would be ideal for lobbing streamers (help me here, Peter C.), but a 5 should work just as well.  And bring a four for nymphing and dry fly work.  Salmon Fly was using his own boo rod — prettiest damn thing you ever saw, and he was giving it a work-out.  I believe it was a 4 weight Dave LaCourse

Dave n’ Charlie Just fired up the laptop in North Bay before I start with their NT conversion (3 people branch – won’t take long) and I caught your plea for help.  <g I’m taking a 9 1/2′ 6 wt. for slinging big streamers into second current, off that big rock at the end of the island.  I’ll also be bringing a short 6 wt. and a 9′ 4 wt. and perhaps one other 4 wt. So Charlie, I’d be making that H&H, you need the length for mending and for keeping the fly out of the crap behind you, on the backcast. Peter

Response:

[snip report] Nice report Dave. Makes me think I need to start building a rod to use there in September. I’m thinking about a 9 1/2′ 6wt from an H&H blank. Think that’ll be useful for streamer fishing? (I’ll be bringing along 3, 4 and 5wt rods as well). Will that be enough firepower or will I need something heavier? — Charlie…

Response:

Nice report Dave. Makes me think I need to start building a rod to use there in September. I’m thinking about a 9 1/2′ 6wt from an H&H blank. Think that’ll be useful for streamer fishing? (I’ll be bringing along 3, 4 and 5wt rods as well). Will that be enough firepower or will I need something heavier? — Charlie…

Uh, I hit send before I was finished.  More to follow. All of the fish I caught were on a 9 foot four weight with WF4F line.  A  6 weight would be ideal for lobbing streamers (help me here, Peter C.), but a 5 should work just as well.  And bring a four for nymphing and dry fly work.  Salmon Fly was using his own boo rod — prettiest damn thing you ever saw, and he was giving it a work-out.  I believe it was a 4 weight Dave LaCourse

Response:

All of the fish I caught were on a 9 foot four weight with WF4F line.  A  6 weight would be ideal for lobbing streamers (help me here, Peter C.), but a 5 should work just as well.  And bring a four for nymphing and dry fly work.  

OK, like I said I’ll have 3, 4 and 5wt rods along, just wondered if I’d need a 6wt (looking for an excuse to build a rod, actually<g). — Charlie…

Response:

Jo, Henry and I arrived at Lakewood just in time for lunch on Monday.  I was a bit alarmed to hear that there were 15 people at the "island", but even more alarmed when told there were 35 there the day before!!!!!  I opted for the dam. Big mistake.  The dam should be easy to fish at 1300 cfs, but the new dam keeper just can’t get it right.  I had the place all to myself, but fishing was very difficult.  No rises.  Water temp at 51.  No hatches.  So, nymphs (or if Peter Charles streamers) were the order of the day.  I went through every nymph pattern I had and never got a strike.  Nothing!  I tied on a Prince as a dropper from a GRW and finally started to catch fish.  No brookies — only salmon 15 – 17 inches — and I ended the day with 3 fish. Tuesday found me at the "island" bright and early.  Two locals in a canoe lobbing big streamers in the 1st and 2nd currents.  I walked up to the wing dam pool and looked around for a few minutes.  No surface activity, but there were a few Henricksons coming off, but no fish rising to them.  I prefer fishing dries on this river, so I tied on a #16 Adams parachute.  Second cast into the riffles coming out of the wing dam and WHAM, a big brookie hit it.  I managed to land the 18 inch fish without a net, something I am not very good at. Beautiful color and it fought like hell.   I figured this was my day.  Wrong!  I fished for 4 more hours and never caught a thing.  But I was not alone.  I returned after lunch and the six or so people that were there had left, probably in disgust. I continued fishing the wing dam pool and managed another brookie about 15 inches, and a couple of salmon about 12 inches, all on prince nymphs. Wednesday, back to the "island" bright and early.  No one there.  I fished the wing dam pool again with limited results.  One of the guests at Lakewood walked his canoe up the rapids of the 2nd current and anchored in the fast water at the head of the pool.  In less that 10 minutes, he was into a helluva big fish.  When it broke off, he turned to me and put his hands about two feet apart.  "Honest", he said.  <g  Ten minutes later he was into another big one and managed to net all 23 inche of it.  It was the biggest brookie I had seen come out of those waters – not so much in length, but in girth too — it measured 16 inches in front of the dorsal.  I have forgotten the formula, but looking at that fish it must have weighed in at 6 pounds.  The irony of it all — that was his first and *only* fish of the day.    I landed (with help from my net!) a 20 inch brookie taken on a BWO emerger. The big brookies were not at the wingdam riffles like they normally are, but farther out in the pool.  They were porpoising, eating at what seemed a leisurely pace.  Every once in awhile, one would come straight up like he was trying to stand on his tail.  But there was very little splashing or noise — you wouldn’t know they were feeding unless you saw them.  And no one saw them except me.  Well, at least for awhile, anyway.  I threw every imaginable caddis emerger I could find in my fly box and they ignored everying.  I finally saw a flying insect and thought it to bea BWO.  Hmmmm. Not caddis.  Mayflies.  I tied on a BWO emerger that I bought several years ago on the advice of some "knowing" friend.  I bought a dozen and never used them — I *think* they are called RS2 or something like that.  Not being much of a mayfly fisher, I had completely forgotten them until now.  Well, I cast the damn thing out there and couldn’t see it in the moving water.  There was a rise where my fly *should* have been, but when  I set the hook, I had nothing.  So, I tied on a #14 Goddard Caddis and used the emerger as a dropper.  Second cast and the Goddard disappeared three seconds after it hit the water.  I set the hook Dave LaCourse

Response:

Question:

Looks great!  Wish I could be there. Thanks,Forrest — Forrest http://www.FlyFishingREVIEW.com FlyFishingREVIEW.com WIN ANY SAGE ROD AND A one OF 3 250.00 gift certificates. Before you buy.

Response:

This event is on again starting 8 Apr 00 at Mooloolaba, Sunshine Coast Australia. Our brochure is out now and if anyone would like a copy drop me quick info try our web site at www.australianfishing.net There are three tournaments involved: The Longtail Tuna Chase The Mercury Marine Lure & Fly Shoot Out The Game Flyfishing Invitational Some notables visiting are Cam Sigler (Snr & Jnr), Jack Samson, John Ryzanich, our own Peter Hayes and a heap of others. Peter will be out showing the finer details of that huge cast of his. Hope to see you there. —-

Response:

Question:

Gruezi! Anybody out there have recommendations on decent streams in Switzerland for flyfishing? I am particularly interested in streams around Zurich, but would love to hear any other recommendations you might have. TIA, Sid

Response:

Eine sch

Question:

I maybe taking a job in Deerfield, IL (Lake county) and will probably live in Northern Illinois or Souther Wisconsin.  Can Anyone tell me what to expect in the way of Fishing.  I am currently Living in CT where there is fishing aplenty.  Any info would be greatly appreciated. Jon

Response:

I maybe taking a job in Deerfield, IL (Lake county) and will probably live in Northern Illinois or Souther Wisconsin.  Can Anyone tell me what to expect in the way of Fishing.

The only fly fishing in Northern Illinois is for bass, crappie, blue gill, and other pan fish.  At times it can be very good. Wisconsin is another story.  South-west Wisconsin is loaded with some of the finest spring creeks around.  They are teaming with browns, rainbows, and brookies.  South-east all along Lake Michigan has many streams with runs of steelhead, and salmon. There is a lot of great fly fishing in Wisconsin. Joel Axelrad

Response:

Question:

I want to get into fly fishing in the surf off of Southern California. Plan to use an 8 wt…..what is a good line to use? I was thinking something like the Teeny T-300….any advice? Thanks in advance.

Response:

I want to get into fly fishing in the surf off of Southern California. Plan to use an 8 wt…..what is a good line to use? I was thinking something like the Teeny T-300….any advice? Thanks in advance.

The T-300 is a great line.  I have a HiD "big game" Triangle Taper that I like alot.  The biggest issue is that as a beginner you will probably fish better with a sinktip, as controlling a full sinking line in the surf is not exactly easy.  It gets under your boots and around your legs much more frequently, and until you learn to handle it you are out of touch with your flies alot of the time.  If you already own the T-300 just learn to use it.  But if you also own a 13 to 20 foot high speed sinktip, you might want to use that until you get better at line handling. Phil

Response:

I want to get into fly fishing in the surf off of Southern California. Plan to use an 8 wt…..what is a good line to use? I was thinking something like the Teeny T-300….any advice? Thanks in advance.

YOU WILL DO WELL with shooting heads.  In fact, better. Mr. G.

Response:

that is what I call an excellent response. Thank you for being specific about lines and how to. bill

Response:

that is what I call an excellent response. Thank you for being specific about lines and how to. bill

thorough indeed, but it is just one side of a very complex story.  If we are talking short (30 to 45 foot) casts PARALLEL to shore, which is what most beginners and many old timers will be doing in California (North and South), I would still contend that a beginner would be better served with a sinktip than a full sinking line or shooting taper.  As I stated earlier, I rely on full sinking lines, preferring them to Shooting Tapers, since changing line density isn’t important (fastest sink you have is all you need), and that and distance are the only advantages of the shooting taper over a full sinking line.  Line handling problems, the inability to make aerial mends, and finger cuts are all good arguments for avoiding shooting heads whenever possible.  By the way I do use shooting heads extensively for lakes, steelhead, shad, Jetties, rare occasions when I’m casting straight out, and rocky coastal shoreline so I don’t have a problem with them, I just restrict them to where they really shine.  I especially stand by my recommendation to stick with what you already own, rather than run out and buy the new rage thing. Phil

Response:

Perhaps I should explain myself a little better: thorough indeed, but it is just one side of a very complex story.  If we are talking short (30 to 45 foot) casts PARALLEL to shore, which is what most beginners and many old timers will be doing in California (North and South), I would still contend that a beginner would be better served with a sinktip than a full sinking line or shooting taper.

The biggest reason for using a lead head is precisely because so much of the casting is PARALLEL to shore.  When casting parallel to shore you are putting the greatest amount of line against the wave action of the surf.  This is like casting directly across a current.  The current (wave action in the surf) exihibits the greatest influence on the line pushing it sideways and causing a belly in the line.  And of course the waves not only go in, they also ebb back out.  Little time is spent without motion in the surf. Floating line is the fattest and most susceptible to this action.  The good news is you can mend it, the bad news is you can’t mend it fast enough or well enough to compensate satisfactorily for the action unless there is a lot of time between waves.  The sink-tip is only slightly better because at least part of it sinks into the strike zone (sometimes as shallow as 1 1/2 ft, sometimes as deep as 6 to 8 feet or more).  The full sinking line sinks along the entire line which prohibits mending but gets the fly down better than the other two.  The fastest sinking line you have will work the best.   It will be the thinnest and least susceptible to the movement of the surf and you have to remember that salt water is more bouyant than freshwater.  Sinking lines don’t sink as fast in the salt.   The lead head allows you to use 300+ grains of weight in 24 ft of line (as opposed to ~210 grains for 30 feet an 8 wt.) and is much thinner than any sinking line.  More weight and less surface area allows the line to get down quicker and stay in the zone longer especially when casting PARALLEL to shore.  Again, a casting basket makes a world of difference in the frustration factor. Now the news about the expense of one of these lines is that you can make your own for less than $10 or buy one for $12 to $14.  Amnesia for a shooting line will set you back around $3.50.  If you opt for the flat beam running line, it will cost you $7. No more than $21 at the most.   If you don’t want to invest in an extra spool and backing, just remove your floating line from your current 8 or 9 wt. rig and tie on the running line and shooting head.   Probably won’t break the bank and will save you the frustration I went through using all of the lines I have mentioned. As I stated earlier, I rely on full sinking lines, preferring them to Shooting Tapers, since changing line density isn’t important (fastest sink you have is all you need), and that and distance are the only advantages of the shooting taper over a full sinking line.

Even forgetting about the distance, the comparison is not even close.  Even the fastest sinking full line won’t sink or track as well as the lead head.  Their diameter is too large and their weight too little. Bear in mind that the first 30 feet of an 8 wt. floating line weighs exactly the same as the first 30 feet of an 8 wt. type V sinking line.  Higher density lines just have the same weight in less space.  That’s what *density* is all about. Line handling problems,

Casting basket eases the tangle problem and will still keep your fly in the zone longer than full sinking lines even with the occaisional tangle. the inability to make aerial mends, and finger cuts are all good arguments for avoiding shooting heads whenever possible.

Type of line has *nothing* to do with aerial mends.  How and where you move the tip of the rod *after* you make the stop on the forward cast determines where the aerial mend goes, not whether or not it is a full sinking line or a shooting head.  "Aerial mend" means repositioning the the line *while* it is in the air. Finger cuts can be avoided by using saltwater tape or stripping guards on your stripping fingers.  White adhesive tape works OK if you can’t find the specific saltwater stuff.  I also use tape or stripping guards when using a floating line for bonefish.  Part of the problem with line cuts comes from the abrasive nature of the salt in the water.  The thinner running line does aggravate it, but the greater fishing success helps compensate for this. *SNIP* I especially stand by my recommendation to stick with what you already own, rather than run out and buy the new rage thing.

Using whatever you can absolutely beats not fishing, but using the right tool for the job makes a big difference.   Lead core lines have been around longer than modern fly lines, so I wouldn’t call them the "new rage thing".  Casting is the biggest problem most people have with lead heads and if you like I will give some suggestions in another post because this one is already way too long. I don’t mean to sound rude, but I see no reason why someone should go through all the hoops I did to arrive at this solution.  Nonetheless, do whatever you like to do, because you are the only one you have to please to enjoy this sport and you may like to use a different method.  I just think you should give this a try.                                        Hope this clarifies my statements a bit,                                                     Dan Dan Gracia Orvis West Coast Fly Fishing Schools

Response:

I want to get into fly fishing in the surf off of Southern California. Plan to use an 8 wt…..what is a good line to use? I was thinking something like the Teeny T-300….any advice? Thanks in advance.

Up in N. Cal one of the most popular lines for surf fishing is a lead head. This sounds scary, but actually works really well.  You can make your own or buy one from Orvis for $14.  I snagged one of the Orvis heads and then cut it back from 30 ft. to 24 ft. and put a loop on the end I cut off.  Works well on my 8 wt.  I use amnesia for the running line, but am going to try the flat beam running line ($7) that we just got in at the Orvis SF store.  Casting basket is a big help to control the running line.   The reason this works so well is that the lead core tracks far better than anything else in the surf.  Floating lines are real tough because the floating section gets whipped back and forth by the wave action so badly.  Same thing with sink tips.  Sometimes the full sinking lines work ok, but usually their cross-section is too big and gets pushed around by the waves too.  The thin lead core (I believe this is the 13gr. per foot version) sinks quickly in the more bouyant saltwater and stays in the trough or channel longer than other lines.  More time in the target area means more fish.  Not the most fun to cast, but not bad with some practice and very effective.                       Hope this helps,                               Dan Dan Gracia Orvis West Coast Fly Fishing Schools

Response:

Question:

Hello all:       I have been fly-fishing only a little while, and discovered the joy of small-mouth fishing the James River in Virginia.  Since its summer and the trout are sullen, it has been a great place to keep practicing my casting.  I have already gleaned a lot of information about using crayfish and dace style patterns, wooly buggers, etc., and I have been fishing the seams, bank overhangs, riffles, and the like.  Generally though, I have approached small-mouthing like trout.  Does anyone have suggestions specific to small-mouth bass that differ or are unique to this species, that improve your luck.  Also, any idiosyncracies of the James River? Best spots, places to avoid like the plague, etc.  I would appreciate any and all information, posted or e-mailed.   Dan Johnson

Response:

      I have been fly-fishing only a little while, and discovered the joy of small-mouth fishing the James River in Virginia.   Dan Johnson

Dan, I enjoyed fishing near Pony Pastures in Richmond.  It does seem to get crowded at times, but not with ffishers.  There’s a good Orvis dealer in Richmond that has a lot of smallmouth knowledge.  Also check with Harry Murray of Murray’s Fly Shop.  He’s a smallmouth guru.  Let me know how you do…                                           Randy

Response:

Dan, We’ve been fishing the Wingina to Scottsville stretch for about 20 years now.  There’s some beautiful water along the way and only two areas that can be a little hairy in the boats.  It’s best as a three day float.   Just don’t go weekends because of all of the tubers on the river. Doug

Response:

Question:

  If you would like a fact sheet on our knot and monofilament tests, e’ mail me your postal address and I’ll be happy to fire one off to you (open offer to anyone).   -Tight lines, Ralph

Hi Ralph, I would like to get your fact sheet regarding knot and monofilament tests. I also have a knot I use I would like to have tested. If you are interested I’ll make a short video on how to tie it so you can test it. I sure it will be great information. Thanks in advance for the information and all the advise/info you share on the group. Tight Lines Al Beatty BT’s Fly Fishing Products 3020 Secor Ave Bozeman, MT 59715-6150 405-585-0745 (phone & fax)

Response:

Actually, it’s not your casting.  The removable split shot slip badly, the "nonremovable" non-toxic shot are better, and actually not that difficult to remove with hemostats.  What I do, though, is tie an 18 inch or so tippet onto the regular tippet, and place the shot above the knot.  Of course, you have to keep replacing the tippet section as you go, but you’d have to replace the tippet anyway.

Response:

When tying your tippet leave about a 4-5 inch tag end put your split shot on here and crimp well. Your weight won’t be directly on your line and when snagged you can usally pull it off with out losing your whole tippet . This will also keep your line off the abraisive bottom. I like to use Water-Gremlin BB size and smaller. If you have a problem with them sliding off, tie a knot at the bottom of the tag.

Response:

Ralph Cutter writes:  A wind knot is stronger than a blood knot. -Ralph

–Maybe your blood knots are weaker then a wind knot Ralph, but I wouldn’t want to admit it, if I were you. Have you ever tried wetting the blood knots before setting them?         Grant.

Response:

Ralph Cutter writes:  A wind knot is stronger than a blood knot. -Ralph –Maybe your blood knots are weaker then a wind knot Ralph, but I wouldn’t want to admit it, if I were you. Have you ever tried wetting the blood knots before setting them?        Grant.

Hi Grant-    We have an extremely accurate (annually certified to 1/100 of a lb) strain gauge device built strictly for testing monofilament and knots. We’ve run at least 500 blood knots through the machine in the past six weeks alone. It doesn’t mind "admitting" anything.    "Wind knots" are actually pretty strong. . . consistantly stronger than double surgeon’s, blood knots, or any other popular tippet joining knot.    Yes, we’ve been known to wet the line before setting the knot. In fact, we soak all of our lines for at least 1 hour in 70f water before testing them.    If you would like a fact sheet on our knot and monofilament tests, e’ mail me your postal address and I’ll be happy to fire one off to you (open offer to anyone).    -Tight lines, Ralph —

Response:

Ralph Cutter writes:  A wind knot is stronger than a blood knot. -Ralph –Maybe your blood knots are weaker then a wind knot Ralph, but I wouldn’t want to admit it, if I were you. Have you ever tried wetting the blood knots before setting them?    Grant.

Hello Grant, The overhand knot is about 10-percent stronger than a blood knot. This, of course, is from independent research with a knot testing machine.  I also have heard it more than once from some very fine fishermen.  I also found it hard to believe.  A little independant research goes a long way. Paul J.

Response:

Has anyone figured out an easy way to prevent a split shot from slipping down the tippet/leader to the fly?

I don’t have much trouble with them slipping as much as them sticking!  I think you just have to bite them on there tighter  My problems is that they really don’t come off and when they do, I’m afraid my tippet is damaged (which it probably is) so I end up replacing the whole section.  I never put shot on the leader.  I guess this is just one of those things that doesn’t have a decent answer. Big Hatches, Brad

Response:

 It may seem like a silly question, but what the hey… Has anyone figured out an easy way to prevent a split shot from slipping down the tippet/leader to the fly? (Granted it probably is due to lousy casting technique…) Thanks in advance..

Response:

Has anyone figured out an easy way to prevent a split shot from slipping down the tippet/leader to the fly?

If you put your split just above a blood or "wind" knot, this tends to hold them in place. Altough blood knots are more difficult to tie, are much stronger than those accidental wind knots which actually quite "sharp" for lack of a better term. Good Luck, Jojoe, New York City (Yeah, we FF here)

Response:

Here’s what I do. Tie your fly well up the leader, leaving as much extra material as the water levels dictate. I usually leave anywhere from 6" to 10". Now you can do one of two things; 1.) You can tie a couple overhand knots one atop the other at the end of           the leader. Apply your shot and it will slide down to the knots and     give you great nearly snag proof drifts. 2.) You can tie a piece of tippett to the excess leader below the fly and     repeat the steps described above. Some anglers prefer this method     because it’s less destructive to the leader. Hope this helps, Tom.

Response:

: Has anyone figured out an easy way to prevent a split shot from : slipping down the tippet/leader to the fly? : Tie a simple overhand knot around the split shot before crimping;  I haven’t had any failures on tippet larger than 5x. Bob Capistrant

Response:

crimp the living crap out of it and don’t mess around with the little cutsie flyshop splits…get the removable ones from the drugs and guns store.

Response:

Instead of a blood knot or "wind" knot, use a surgeons knot for tippet to leader connection, and put your shot immediately above this knot. Mike Fair

Response:

Has anyone figured out an easy way to prevent a split shot from slipping down the tippet/leader to the fly? If you put your split just above a blood or "wind" knot, this tends to hold them in place. Altough blood knots are more difficult to tie, are much stronger than those accidental wind knots which actually quite "sharp" for lack of a better term.

   A wind knot is stronger than a blood knot. -Ralph —

Response:

Question:

Question: I live in Oregon and we’ve had a warm and wet winter.  We are just recovering from a major flood.  What effect will this have on insect populations in the spring and summer?

Response:

Yo Dan, The effect of the flood will be the determining factor on the bug population, not the warm water conditons. Certainly if the flood was sustained and had heavy enough flows to scour the stream bed then you can expect some damage to the invertibrate population.   The warmer than seasonal winter flows can accelerate the hatches, that is make them come early.  Normally by mid season the hatches will get back on track unless you have a hot spring. Yippi tie one on! AuSable1

Response:

Question: I live in Oregon and we’ve had a warm and wet winter.  We are just recovering from a major flood.  What effect will this have on insect populations in the spring and summer?

Good question.  Most nymphs or larva grow very little during the winter months but the unseasonably warm water may change this.  Could see many of your normal hatches happening earlier than usual.  Then again the flooding may well have destroyed a lot of the habitat (rooted vegetation especially) with its scouring effects and you may have greatly reduced hatches and insect activity.   Then again placing all the organic materials in the rivers may actually improve habitat over the long run. This is a little like chaos theories, there are so many variables it’s real hard to predict. Probably just have to wait and see what happens. Any one else care to guess?                                                Dan Dan Gracia Orvis West Coast Schools Dan Gracia                                                               Orvis West Coast Fly Fishing Schools If you kill that big fish you can’t catch ‘em again.  So what if they eat other fish?  If you kill the big ones there will only be little ones left (funny how that works!).

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Question: I live in Oregon and we’ve had a warm and wet winter.  We are just recovering from a major flood.  What effect will this have on insect populations in the spring and summer? Good question.  Most nymphs or larva grow very little during the winter months but the unseasonably warm water may change this.  Could see many of your normal hatches happening earlier than usual.  Then again the flooding may well have destroyed a lot of the habitat (rooted vegetation especially) with its scouring effects and you may have greatly reduced hatches and insect activity.   Then again placing all the organic materials in the rivers may actually improve habitat over the long run. This is a little like chaos theories, there are so many variables it’s real hard to predict. Probably just have to wait and see what happens. Any one else care to guess?                                                Dan My guess:  It may make the hatches come off early.  Therefore,

you should get onstream earlier in the year.  It also may make the hatches sparse.  Therefore, you should spend as much time as possible onstream.  It may make the hatches come off late, since we are just guessing here, so you should fish later into the year than you normally do.  It may stunt the hatches.  There- fore you should tie smaller flies this year.  It may cause phenomenal growth, since the flood reduced the population relative to the habitat.  So, you should tie larger flies.  It could reduce populations, causing underfed fish to virtually leap on any fly presented to them.  Therefore, you should not bother to take a variety of flies onstream.  It could displace the fish so they are unavailable to jump on your fly.  Therefore, stay home. It could go just about any way.  I plan to review the year at the end and construct a difinitive answer to this question when I have some factual^b^b^b^b^b^b^b anecdotal data to draw on. Charley

Response:

Question:

Hi – I’ll be going to visit folks in Sarasota area in late Feb.  Thought I’d take 3 days or so to go to the Keys for FF’g.  Any info would be appreciated, re:    guides?    gear?    fish?    patterns? I have a 9′ #8 rod , & a #8 line w/ sink tip.  Adequate? As I don’t have any set destination in mind, I’m open to any suggestions, heading out of Sarasota.  Thanks, Adam

Response:

Hi – I’ll be going to visit folks in Sarasota area in late Feb.  Thought I’d take 3 days or so to go to the Keys for FF’g.  Any info would be appreciated, re:

Here is some old posts that I sent to another fellow planning a trip to the Keys in Feb. I probably need to work up a bonefish/keys FAQ… Have fun, and mail me if you have further questions…  Alan Barrow  km4ba         | If a little knowledge….. As if Santa wasn’t good enough to me, I found out that I have business in Ft. Lauderdale in January. It looks like a two hour drive down to the end of the Florida peninsula according to my atlas, and I plan on scamming a couple of extra days to cast for bonefish.

I would allow a little extra time, it can take longer depending on traffic. The only way in or out of the keys is US-1, and it is mostly 2 lane for miles. (You can take card sound road for a nice alternate route coming back. About the same time, and you see a different part of N Key Largo.) I am a steelheader from Seattle who knows NOTHING< about bonefish except that my 8wt rpl will work, and the flies under the heading "bonefish" are small shrimpy weighted flies.

You ought to be ok, use as much of a WF line as you have. Make sure you have as much backing as your reel will hold. Nevertheless, the thought of ‘wading the flats’ wearing shorts in January is too much to resist for someone from latitude 47.

And you can do it, you just have to be a bit trickier during winter time. The bonefish are still there, they just will not come onto the flats until the water warms up. I would plan on fishing mid-day if the night time temp is below 70. The flats will be too cold in the AM, but will warm up. I am groveling for information! (fishing dates: Jan 14th – 16th)

Here are some posts I have made earlier. Not all will be relevant, but most info should be useful. I grew up down there, and spend 2-3 weeks a year flats fishing in the upper Keys. My brother works in Key Largo and Key West about half of the time, and he gets me current fishing reports. Both he and I have flats boats, and are into flyfishing for bonefish and tarpon. Have fun! Call me if you have questions… 404/850-2644  Alan Barrow  km4ba         | If a little knowledge….. Newsgroups: rec.outdoors.fishing Some friends and I, serious fly fisherman all, are thinking about going to the Florida Keys to do some bonefishing (and maybe tarpon, permit, etc.)  this winter.  Never having done this before, I have scads of questions: * Is end of December/beginning of January a good time?

Bones are there year round. They will not come up onto the flats if the water temp is too cold. Also wind is more likely, and impacts the number of "fishable" (sight fishing) days. However, the largest bonefish are usually caught in winter. I have hooked (not landed) very big bonefish during XMAS trips last year. Tarpon migrate, and are not in the Keys in large quantities until May/June. There are year round Tarpon spots in the Keys ( and Miami) but it is usually deep water. (Bridges/channels, etc) I consider June/July the best time all around for fishing in the Keys. I still fish year all seasons, because even "off season" the fishing is better than most places I know. But for fly fisherman, winter may be less desirable. Redfish are available year round, as are sharks and barracudas. Many fly types are sight fishing for big ‘Cudas during winter when it the flats are too cold for bonefish. * Where are the good spots in the keys?  Should we try Grand Bahama or  Belize instead?

My conclusion is that if you want numbers and lot’s of action, hit the bahamas, Christmas Island (near Hawaii), or costa rica. However, If you want big fish on a regular basis, Miami down to Marathon for bonefish is hard to beat. For Tarpon, Boca Grande pass in June is fantastic. Not the same as sight fishing the flats edges for tarpon in the Keys, but killer in a different fashion. Tarpon are all around florida mid year, so there are many good places for them. The keys are ideal due to: Big Bonefish, good tarpon, great Permit, OK redfish, great trout, great dolphin close in (the fish). The water is great for sight fishing in the Keys. Other parts of Fla are less "clear". The Bahamas are tough to beat in water clarity. * Know any good guides/outfitters?

I have not used a guide for 3 years, but recommend using one until you become proficient in finding fish yourself. Even then, guides will put you onto more fish. * Will I need my own equipment or can I rent?

I have not seen much rental equipment. If you have a guide, he will provide top notch equipment. I hope you have a good time! Newsgroups: rec.outdoors.fishing I will be on Islamorada from February 10-17 of this year.  I plan to do some inshore fishing, and am wondering if this is a particularly "hot" time for specific fish. Can anyone give me some help? I’ll be

Entirely dependant on water temperature. (Wind may also be an issue) Some of the largest bonefish are caught in "winter" (dec-feb). You may also go all day without seeing a fish on a flat. A guide is a big win here. They may know when/where fish may make an appearence. We have found that "normal" behavior does not apply. (normal for bonefish is: fish move on flat with low incoming tide.) Problem is that with colder water temp, at may be midday before the water warms up enough. Thus traditional early morning/late evening "best times" may not apply. Barracuda are found (and fished for) on the flats in the winter. Any other time, these guys are almost impossible to catch. (Except when a big bonefish is about to nail your shrimp/lure) Also sharks on the flats can be fun. Tarpon are pretty much somewhere else, except for a few "bridge" types that hang around year round. Redfish and trout in the backcountry (Fla Bay, as opposed to the Atlantic) should also be a good option. (Not as exciting as bonefish, but still pretty good) I believe offshore is pretty good this time of year. (Sailfish, grouper, Kings, snapper, etc) out for a full day, and would like to spend about half the day fishing purely for sport (i.e. tarpon, bonefish, maybe permit) and half the day fishing for something I can cook up afterwards. Is this possible?

Bonefish or permit then hit backcountry for redfish or trout. I have limited out on big trout within 30 min skiff ride from Islamorada. (By the way, you will be "in" Islamorada, the city. You will be "on" upper or lower matacumbe. Just a "nit" :- ) Any suggestions would be appreciated. I’d like to call up and reserve a guide ahead of time.

We had good luck with Jamie Brodie, who booked out of Holiday Isle. I could get other names from Fla Sportsman if needed. Secondly, since I can’t afford a guide every day I’m there, but would like to do some fishing most of the days I’m there, I’m wondering if anyone can give me advice about wading/shore fishing. I’ll cast for

This is how we got started. Harry Harris park up in key largo (20 min N of Islamorada) is a good flat to wade for bonefish. Also flats off the bridges at shell and indian key ( Just S of Islamorada. ) are good. If you see brown bottom that you can get too from your hotel, etc. I would give it a try. Wear tennis shoes, or booties. (I use "aquasox" as well) Be aware of stingrays. (Some say to shuffle. I do if I cannot see the bottom very clearly. I have found if the bottom is hard enough to wade, the stingrays do not bury themselves. They are also very spooky, and will avoid you.) Also bridge fishing all along that area is good. You can also rent a boat. (not cheap, but cheaper than a guide.) Plan on using it mainly to get too flats. Do not try to take it on the flats, as you will get stuck unless it is very high tide. You will not have a pole anyway. Even with our flat’s boats, we wade alot. (during low tide) anything, I just don’t know what’s there to cast to, or what to cast to whatever is there (to state a simple point in a fairly unruly way).

On the flats you will see:         stingrays- do not try to catch them. Look for bonefish/jack         following them. try to cast on the back of any stingray you see.         Many times you will not see the fish following them. Best sign         that bonefish are on the flats. Stingrays are your friend.         Bonefish- swim most in straight lines. best case is to find them         tailing in low water. (why wading is good). You may see one or a         dozen. Very spooky. Cast in front of them, let them swim up on         your lure/bait.         Permit- The most spooky. look for "sickle" fin sticking out of         water.         Baracuda- usually loitering around. Moving very slowly, then         disappears faster than your eye can follow. If you see a fish,         and it does not move 5-10 feet in a few seconds, then it is probably         a barracuda. cast past it 10 feet in front of it. reel as fast         as you can. They strike instinctively.         Jack- Usually you do not see them, but catch them by accident.         can get pretty big, fights almost as good as a bonefish. (Just         missing the

… read more »

Response: