Question:

<SNIP The aspiration for ‘reasonable contentment’ is one we probably all share, Mike. I’m not sure it’s been the driving force behind mankind’s most impressive achievements, though.

War has usually been the driving force for man

Question:

Hello Richard: Drop by TroutWorld at http://www.troutworld.com I cover fishing in every state, events, stocking, and a lot more.  I’m also a member of the Luna Network. Thanks, Jeffrey Gray TroutWorld.com, Inc. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – If you want to promote your website, please reply to this leaving your url and e-mail address and a brief description of the site (1 sentence). I am creating a new feature to my site which contains useful links. Thanks Chris www.geocities.com/ccflies

Response:

off my trolley by writing: Every knot you need to know,, about tying any rig, using the same knot,, yep it’s a top notch knot, takes a cheap tool to tie though

Knots?? You can get knotted here too hhtp://www.f-deans.freeserve.co.uk/knots/knots.htm Dixie

Response:

| /  http://www.totalfishing.com.au   | /  "Catching fish is our game"    _/ – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – http://totalfishingadventures.com  Thanks If you want to promote your website, please reply to this leaving your url and e-mail address and a brief description of the site (1 sentence). I am creating a new feature to my site which contains useful links. Thanks Chris www.geocities.com/ccflies

Response:

If you want to promote your website, please reply to this leaving your url and e-mail address and a brief description of the site (1 sentence). I am creating a new feature to my site which contains useful links. Thanks Chris www.geocities.com/ccflies

Response:

http://totalfishingadventures.com  Thanks

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – If you want to promote your website, please reply to this leaving your url and e-mail address and a brief description of the site (1 sentence). I am creating a new feature to my site which contains useful links. Thanks Chris www.geocities.com/ccflies

Response:

http://www.snapper.karoo.net/index.htm This site is purely amateur,  but I hope it would be of some use. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – If you want to promote your website, please reply to this leaving your url and e-mail address and a brief description of the site (1 sentence). I am creating a new feature to my site which contains useful links. Thanks Chris www.geocities.com/ccflies

Response:

http://www.wetfly.co.uk Mainly North Country Spider and traditional materials  Thanks  Jim – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – If you want to promote your website, please reply to this leaving your url and e-mail address and a brief description of the site (1 sentence). I am creating a new feature to my site which contains useful links. Thanks Chris www.geocities.com/ccflies

Response:

Nice site – not really into wets myself but if I were… I particularly like the dying instructions – more people should get into this. Since I’m into Wulffs, muddlers and elk hair caddis variants, I’ve dyed a lot of deer hair over the years. One thing though – I couldn’t link to the good genetic hackle page – is there a www missing perhaps? R.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – http://www.wetfly.co.uk

Response:

Why do you not pool all your information and set up a fly fishing portal together? Besides centralising good tips and advice, you could offer forums and polls, organise events, sell a variety of gear either through yourselves or commission from a vendor, …… Plus, by grouping your efforts into a single site, you’d be more attractive to advertisers and could split any revenue. Ta.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – http://totalfishingadventures.com  Thanks If you want to promote your website, please reply to this leaving your url and e-mail address and a brief description of the site (1 sentence). I am creating a new feature to my site which contains useful links. Thanks Chris www.geocities.com/ccflies

Response:

My Scottish club site has a quiz, beginners guid,fun pages, Hint’s & Tip’s,UK venue information and much much more. www.gibbboyd.freeserve.co.uk   Thanks Colin

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – http://totalfishingadventures.com  Thanks If you want to promote your website, please reply to this leaving your url and e-mail address and a brief description of the site (1 sentence). I am creating a new feature to my site which contains useful links. Thanks Chris www.geocities.com/ccflies

Response:

If you want to promote your website, please reply to this leaving your url and e-mail address and a brief description of the site (1 sentence). I am creating a new feature to my site which contains useful links. Thanks Chris www.geocities.com/ccflies

http://ezknot.com/ Every knot you need to know,, about tying any rig, using the same knot,, yep it’s a top notch knot, takes a cheap tool to tie though — Rodney Long, Inventor of the  "EZ Knot," What should be in every tackle box. http://ezknot.com/

Response:

Question:

At $6000 for a pair, you are paying a lot up front, I think. I think I am going to self insure them. — Ron White Check out HAMMER the 30′ sportfisherman I am building http://www.concentric.net/~knotreel/

Response:

Bare in mind, "Extended Warranties" are the biggest scam going.  That’s just not my opinion, ask anyone who sell’s cars. It seems you always hear about the (1) guy who was really glad he bought the "Extended Warranty", what you don’t hear is the (100) others who paid a lot of money for nothing. Extended Warranties are like any other insurance and the odds are always greatly in favor of the insurer …not the insured.  Think about it ….if Extended Warranty programs weren’t such a juicy pie, why do you find everyone and their grandmother trying to sell them. Your best warranty is to know what the hell your buying in the first place and don’t buy junk! Dennis, WI

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – At $6000 for a pair, you are paying a lot up front, I think. I think I am going to self insure them. — Ron White Check out HAMMER the 30′ sportfisherman I am building http://www.concentric.net/~knotreel/

Response:

Ron, IMHO, buy the best and most comprehensive plan you can.  These motors today are very unreliable and you will be in the shop for repairs worth thousands of dollars every year. I was at my mechanics the other day.  A tourney fisherman was going to miss out on a tournament because parts for his 2000 225 Optimax wouldn’t be available until sometime in October.  Seems the demand for parts is outstripping supply. Just my observations.

Response:

I had decided to for go the Mercury extended warranty due to a $6000 cost to cover both of my 2000 225HP Optimaxs. My dealer offers an alternate plan thru Pinnacle for about half that of Mercury’s. Does anybody have any experience with Pinnacle extended warranty plans for big outboards? — Ron White Check out HAMMER the 30′ sportfisherman I am building http://www.concentric.net/~knotreel/

Response:

Ron, I don’t have knowlege about the coverage PINNACLE offers, but the extended warranty I got from Mercury covers ALL internally lubricated parts, both engine and outdrive (O.K. I have the 4.3L I/O, different coverage for the outboards I guess).  Seemed a good deal to me for the money..about $800 for 2 more years. Mike

Response:

  Ron, you might want to check with your dealer about that extended warranty.  When we bought our boat this past spring the dealer told us about a program(?) that Mercury was/is running.  It may have something to do with the volume of business our dealer does with Merc.  The dealer was given about $9k of Mercury’s money that he could use anyway he wanted.  Now, we bought the boat in Canada (we live in the U.S.), so it may not apply in your situation.  Anyway, our dealer offered to extend the warranty to five years for both motors and outdrives (hell, anything on the boat from Mercury) for $500 U.S.  Needless to say we wrote the check on the spot!  Normally I have no use for extended warranties, but this was too good a deal to pass up. Never hurts to inquire. Good luck. Keith McGregor 2000 Doral 300SE – Sweet E

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I had decided to for go the Mercury extended warranty due to a $6000 cost to cover both of my 2000 225HP Optimaxs. My dealer offers an alternate plan thru Pinnacle for about half that of Mercury’s. Does anybody have any experience with Pinnacle extended warranty plans for big outboards? — Ron White Check out HAMMER the 30′ sportfisherman I am building http://www.concentric.net/~knotreel/

Response:

=it is, that issue is not your concern.  Your concern is simply to ask what =will the outlay of $787.50 do for you.  It matters not to you that ten =different boaters will tell you they’ve never had a breakdown.  What matters =is the consequences to you if you do.  I’ve heard the argument that the And this is key.  For instance, on my first boat, corrosion damage wasn’t covered.  So, when the starter rusted from the inside out, I had to pay for it.  Now, I bought from a decent dealer, so they didn’t charge labor, and I paid for a new starter.  Good deal, considering how hard it was to remove.  It was difficult because the bolts holding the starter on rusted and broke.  I think they had to do lots of drilling (4.3L OMC Cobra). So, if 2.5 years from now, the riser rusts through and fills the engine with water and destroys it, do you have coverage?  I’m not saying you don’t, but that you should check.  Corrosion damage on a boat engine means much more than some rust on the outside of the engine.  What happens if you wrap a fishing line around the prop shaft, cut the outdrive seals, get water in the drive and damage the gears?  This is the kind of stuff that damages equipment.  And, of course, what if you hit something.  But, damage to your boat caused by hitting something is often covered under your insurance. Also, make sure you know who is providing the coverage.  Is it a fly by night company?  Or Merc itself?  Or a quality dealer? How new is the design of the equipment?  5.0L motors and Alpha I drives have been around a long time.  Ficht (sp?) and Optimax are much newer and probably have design flaws. Mike

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – It is hard to believe but my first year of boating is almost over. Wow that was fast. Mercury says I bought the boat on Oct. 28 and they are offering an extended warranty. The details are: 2 Year    $472.50 3 Year    $640.50 4 year    $787.50 I have a 5.0 Mercruiser. My question is, should I even consider this? It seems that extended warranties are just an incredible revenue generator for the companies but with being new to this maybe this is warranted. I use the boat maybe two or three times a week at most. I think I have put about 35-40 hours on the boat this summer. Thanks in advance for any advise you have. Ron Ron, here’s some food for thought about your warranty decision.  First, lets discuss the reasons you’ve heard why you shouldn’t buy it:  The most common reason is that the product is too profitable for the company who offers the warranty and/or the dealer who sells it to you.  Of course it is a profitable product.  Would you expect them to offer anything less?  Your boat was a profitable product when it was sold to you as well.  Maybe it is even an outrageously profitable product.  No matter how obscenely profitable it is, that issue is not your concern.  Your concern is simply to ask what will the outlay of $787.50 do for you.  It matters not to you that ten different boaters will tell you they’ve never had a breakdown.  What matters is the consequences to you if you do.  I’ve heard the argument that the warranty will limit its payout to the cost of replacing the engine/outdrive. I don’t really know the exact cost, I but feel very certain that the cost of replacing your drivetrain would be well in excess of $10,000.  If that’s the best the product did, with a base cost of $787.50, I’d say you should do so well with your other investments.  A major engine or drive failure can easily run $5-6k.  It takes almost nothing to go wrong that wouldn’t cost you more than $787.50.  We are talking boat repair prices here. My recommendation is to focus on your feelings on this one.  Ignore what the $787.50 does for Mercury’s bottom line.  Be concerned with your bottom line. What you are buying with the warranty is called a stop-loss.  Simply put, it means that for the next four years, it can’t get any worse than $787.50.  It really is just that simple.  It is the only issue you need to focus on.  Do you like having that net underneath you?  Or do you enjoy the thrill of life without one?  How well do you sleep?  Base your decision with that in mind. There is no way to quantify the chances of you recouping your cost back. Two other thoughts to consider:  If you buy the warranty, and you should decide to sell the boat during the warranty period, you have also bought a stop loss for the potential buyer of your boat.  If you’ve never bought or sold in the used market, you have no idea how powerful an asset that warranty can be as a sales incentive.  There is no reason to think that the remaining term on the warranty wouldn’t be worth the full $787.50 to a buyer who doesn’t know you from Adam and doesn’t know the history of the boat.  It puts you a leg up on the competition.  Even if you like living without a net, your buyer might not, especially with a used boat.  Also, consider that you are buying your coverage directly from Mercury, not an after market company.  That means that any Mercury authorized warranty facility will honor that warranty without hesitation.  For $787.50, I think its a steal. Russ Of course, all this assumes the company, whatever company (insurance or manufacturer), doesn’t fight actually HONORING this extended warranty.  We can always refuse to fix it and call it "water ingestion" or some other hole in the contract big enough to drive a Feadship through…… If you’re going to buy a contract, take the contract HOME and READ IT CAREFULLY.  Mark out all the huge holes with a magic marker, you know, where it says they don’t HAVE to fix it if they don’t want to.  Take the modified contract back to the dealer and get him, as representative of the company, to initial all the contractual changes. If he says he can’t, mail the contract back to the company and ask THEM to initial the contractual changes.  This way, you’ll at least get a contract that will actually force them to fix the boat, without you having to kiss their corporate asses and be a buddy-buddy with the dealer. READ THE CONTRACT, very carefully.  Look at all the "outs" their lawyers have written into it.  It can happen to you…it has me. Larry….Yamaha Y.E.S. contract.  Not worth the paper it’s printed on in ‘97.  They had no intention of ever honoring it.

You should follow your own advice, Larry. Next time you buy a home computer, read the specs. That way, you won’t have to moan about how you were–once again–screwed. — Harry Krause – - – - – - – - – - – - Hey!  You can’t commit suicide with Ex-Lax!

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – It is hard to believe but my first year of boating is almost over. Wow that was fast. Mercury says I bought the boat on Oct. 28 and they are offering an extended warranty. The details are: 2 Year    $472.50 3 Year    $640.50 4 year    $787.50 I have a 5.0 Mercruiser. My question is, should I even consider this? It seems that extended warranties are just an incredible revenue generator for the companies but with being new to this maybe this is warranted. I use the boat maybe two or three times a week at most. I think I have put about 35-40 hours on the boat this summer. Thanks in advance for any advise you have. Ron Ron, here’s some food for thought about your warranty decision.  First, lets discuss the reasons you’ve heard why you shouldn’t buy it:  The most common reason is that the product is too profitable for the company who offers the warranty and/or the dealer who sells it to you.  Of course it is a profitable product.  Would you expect them to offer anything less?  Your boat was a profitable product when it was sold to you as well.  Maybe it is even an outrageously profitable product.  No matter how obscenely profitable it is, that issue is not your concern.  Your concern is simply to ask what will the outlay of $787.50 do for you.  It matters not to you that ten different boaters will tell you they’ve never had a breakdown.  What matters is the consequences to you if you do.  I’ve heard the argument that the warranty will limit its payout to the cost of replacing the engine/outdrive. I don’t really know the exact cost, I but feel very certain that the cost of replacing your drivetrain would be well in excess of $10,000.  If that’s the best the product did, with a base cost of $787.50, I’d say you should do so well with your other investments.  A major engine or drive failure can easily run $5-6k.  It takes almost nothing to go wrong that wouldn’t cost you more than $787.50.  We are talking boat repair prices here. My recommendation is to focus on your feelings on this one.  Ignore what the $787.50 does for Mercury’s bottom line.  Be concerned with your bottom line. What you are buying with the warranty is called a stop-loss.  Simply put, it means that for the next four years, it can’t get any worse than $787.50.  It really is just that simple.  It is the only issue you need to focus on.  Do you like having that net underneath you?  Or do you enjoy the thrill of life without one?  How well do you sleep?  Base your decision with that in mind. There is no way to quantify the chances of you recouping your cost back. Two other thoughts to consider:  If you buy the warranty, and you should decide to sell the boat during the warranty period, you have also bought a stop loss for the potential buyer of your boat.  If you’ve never bought or sold in the used market, you have no idea how powerful an asset that warranty can be as a sales incentive.  There is no reason to think that the remaining term on the warranty wouldn’t be worth the full $787.50 to a buyer who doesn’t know you from Adam and doesn’t know the history of the boat.  It puts you a leg up on the competition.  Even if you like living without a net, your buyer might not, especially with a used boat.  Also, consider that you are buying your coverage directly from Mercury, not an after market company.  That means that any Mercury authorized warranty facility will honor that warranty without hesitation.  For $787.50, I think its a steal. Russ

Of course, all this assumes the company, whatever company (insurance or manufacturer), doesn’t fight actually HONORING this extended warranty.  We can always refuse to fix it and call it "water ingestion" or some other hole in the contract big enough to drive a Feadship through…… If you’re going to buy a contract, take the contract HOME and READ IT CAREFULLY.  Mark out all the huge holes with a magic marker, you know, where it says they don’t HAVE to fix it if they don’t want to.  Take the modified contract back to the dealer and get him, as representative of the company, to initial all the contractual changes. If he says he can’t, mail the contract back to the company and ask THEM to initial the contractual changes.  This way, you’ll at least get a contract that will actually force them to fix the boat, without you having to kiss their corporate asses and be a buddy-buddy with the dealer. READ THE CONTRACT, very carefully.  Look at all the "outs" their lawyers have written into it.  It can happen to you…it has me. Larry….Yamaha Y.E.S. contract.  Not worth the paper it’s printed on in ‘97.  They had no intention of ever honoring it.

Response:

It is hard to believe but my first year of boating is almost over. Wow that was fast. Mercury says I bought the boat on Oct. 28 and they are offering an extended warranty. The details are: 2 Year    $472.50 3 Year    $640.50 4 year    $787.50 I have a 5.0 Mercruiser. My question is, should I even consider this? It seems that extended warranties are just an incredible revenue generator for the companies but with being new to this maybe this is warranted. I use the boat maybe two or three times a week at most. I think I have put about 35-40 hours on the boat this summer. Thanks in advance for any advise you have. Ron Share what you know. Learn what you don’t.

Response:

My two cents worth. I believe it is worth it. I am getting it for my Merc 250hp outboard. $1900 for 3 years. Cheap when you think of shop hour charges and parts. Ask your dealer about his past worst case of how many hours to fix a nasty problem. Good Luck

Response:

I have been boating for 13 years and I am on my 3rd vessel and all of them have had Mercruiser engines and outdrives and I have never ever had a problem that needed repairs either under warranty or outside of the warranty period. I have twin Mercs now on my new Maxum and declined the extended warranty…it is a revenue grabber..but I have peace of mind knowing my vessel has Mercs…I’ll not use anything else. Nshore – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – It is hard to believe but my first year of boating is almost over. Wow that was fast. Mercury says I bought the boat on Oct. 28 and they are offering an extended warranty. The details are: 2 Year    $472.50 3 Year    $640.50 4 year    $787.50 I have a 5.0 Mercruiser. My question is, should I even consider this? It seems that extended warranties are just an incredible revenue generator for the companies but with being new to this maybe this is warranted. I use the boat maybe two or three times a week at most. I think I have put about 35-40 hours on the boat this summer. Thanks in advance for any advise you have. Ron Share what you know. Learn what you don’t.

Response:

I have a 1994 5.7 EFI by Volvo.  The extended warranty was approx. $1,500, $750 of that being a sales commission to the dealer.  I did not buy the warranty and have never had any warranty or non warranty work done on the engine.  All I did was scheduled maintenance which is not covered. Most of the "insurance" policies limited the total coverage or payout during the policy period to the total replacement cost of the engine, so if you have a real lemon of an engine, they will only repair it till your total claims reach the replacement costs of the engine.  It is a very very profitable insurance policy for the dealer and warranty company. — Jim 1994 Regal 256 for sale – see ad at http://www.classifieds2000.com/cgi-cls/ad.exe?P61+C189+A0+R1127049+Q2… 4 To see pictures of the boat’s layout visit: http://www.regalboats.com/htm/boats_commodore_258.shtml

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I have been boating for 13 years and I am on my 3rd vessel and all of them have had Mercruiser engines and outdrives and I have never ever had a problem that needed repairs either under warranty or outside of the warranty period. I have twin Mercs now on my new Maxum and declined the extended warranty…it is a revenue grabber..but I have peace of mind knowing my vessel has Mercs…I’ll not use anything else. Nshore It is hard to believe but my first year of boating is almost over. Wow that was fast. Mercury says I bought the boat on Oct. 28 and they are offering an extended warranty. The details are: 2 Year    $472.50 3 Year    $640.50 4 year    $787.50 I have a 5.0 Mercruiser. My question is, should I even consider this? It seems that extended warranties are just an incredible revenue generator for the companies but with being new to this maybe this is warranted. I use the boat maybe two or three times a week at most. I think I have put about 35-40 hours on the boat this summer. Thanks in advance for any advise you have. Ron Share what you know. Learn what you don’t.

Response:

Ron: My "new" boat is in its second season, and I just signed up for a 5 year comprehensive coverage, including the 5.7 L Mer-Cruiser and all components on the boat (Sea Ray). This is far from cheap, representing about 2% of the entire cost of the new boat, but for peace of mind, and a comfortable feeling about Sea Ray response to date, I decided to go for it. My decision is also partly based on my lack of strong mechanical skills. Marty in NJ

Response:

Ron: My "new" boat is in its second season, and I just signed up for a 5 year comprehensive coverage, including the 5.7 L Mer-Cruiser and all components on the boat (Sea Ray). This is far from cheap, representing about 2% of the entire cost of the new boat, but for peace of mind, and a comfortable feeling about Sea Ray response to date, I decided to go for it. My decision is also partly based on my lack of strong mechanical skills. Marty in NJ

It’s all a gamble, of course, but, if *one* serious thing goes wrong with your engine when the standard warranty expires, your extended warranty will pay for itself. It’s also a good thing to have at trade or selling time. In NE Florida, it is damned hard to sell a rig if the engine doesn’t have at least a year or two left on extended warranty. — Harry Krause – - – - – - – - – - – - Democracy can withstand anything but democrats.

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – It is hard to believe but my first year of boating is almost over. Wow that was fast. Mercury says I bought the boat on Oct. 28 and they are offering an extended warranty. The details are: 2 Year    $472.50 3 Year    $640.50 4 year    $787.50 I have a 5.0 Mercruiser. My question is, should I even consider this? It seems that extended warranties are just an incredible revenue generator for the companies but with being new to this maybe this is warranted. I use the boat maybe two or three times a week at most. I think I have put about 35-40 hours on the boat this summer. Thanks in advance for any advise you have. Ron

Ron, here’s some food for thought about your warranty decision.  First, lets discuss the reasons you’ve heard why you shouldn’t buy it:  The most common reason is that the product is too profitable for the company who offers the warranty and/or the dealer who sells it to you.  Of course it is a profitable product.  Would you expect them to offer anything less?  Your boat was a profitable product when it was sold to you as well.  Maybe it is even an outrageously profitable product.  No matter how obscenely profitable it is, that issue is not your concern.  Your concern is simply to ask what will the outlay of $787.50 do for you.  It matters not to you that ten different boaters will tell you they’ve never had a breakdown.  What matters is the consequences to you if you do.  I’ve heard the argument that the warranty will limit its payout to the cost of replacing the engine/outdrive. I don’t really know the exact cost, I but feel very certain that the cost of replacing your drivetrain would be well in excess of $10,000.  If that’s the best the product did, with a base cost of $787.50, I’d say you should do so well with your other investments.  A major engine or drive failure can easily run $5-6k.  It takes almost nothing to go wrong that wouldn’t cost you more than $787.50.  We are talking boat repair prices here. My recommendation is to focus on your feelings on this one.  Ignore what the $787.50 does for Mercury’s bottom line.  Be concerned with your bottom line. What you are buying with the warranty is called a stop-loss.  Simply put, it means that for the next four years, it can’t get any worse than $787.50.  It really is just that simple.  It is the only issue you need to focus on.  Do you like having that net underneath you?  Or do you enjoy the thrill of life without one?  How well do you sleep?  Base your decision with that in mind. There is no way to quantify the chances of you recouping your cost back. Two other thoughts to consider:  If you buy the warranty, and you should decide to sell the boat during the warranty period, you have also bought a stop loss for the potential buyer of your boat.  If you’ve never bought or sold in the used market, you have no idea how powerful an asset that warranty can be as a sales incentive.  There is no reason to think that the remaining term on the warranty wouldn’t be worth the full $787.50 to a buyer who doesn’t know you from Adam and doesn’t know the history of the boat.  It puts you a leg up on the competition.  Even if you like living without a net, your buyer might not, especially with a used boat.  Also, consider that you are buying your coverage directly from Mercury, not an after market company.  That means that any Mercury authorized warranty facility will honor that warranty without hesitation.  For $787.50, I think its a steal. Russ

Response:

Simple question, Ron…… Can you afford to fix it if it breaks? If Yes, to hell with warranties.  If they thought it was going to break expensively, they sure as hell wouldn’t let you off the hook for a few hundred bucks, would they.  Take you chances. If No, you’re strapped for cash and couldn’t afford a $2000 repair bill if it lunches….Insurance isn’t so bad, even IF they are making a killing selling it, which they ARE! You decide….. I buy very little insurance unless I think there is a disaster in the making….like house insurance, boat insurance, etc….that would wipe me out.  Breaking a V-8 and paying off the Mastercard I used to pay for it is MUCH cheaper than paying thousands for bogus insurance you’re going to have to fight with insurance bureaucrats to get them to pay.  NOONE ever refuses my MasterCard!! Larry….I’l fix it. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -It is hard to believe but my first year of boating is almost over. Wow that was fast. Mercury says I bought the boat on Oct. 28 and they are offering an extended warranty. The details are: 2 Year    $472.50 3 Year    $640.50 4 year    $787.50 I have a 5.0 Mercruiser. My question is, should I even consider this? It seems that extended warranties are just an incredible revenue generator for the companies but with being new to this maybe this is warranted. I use the boat maybe two or three times a week at most. I think I have put about 35-40 hours on the boat this summer. Thanks in advance for any advise you have. Ron Share what you know. Learn what you don’t.

Response:

Question:

Too late! You two would make a *perfect* couple. How ’bout a honeymoon to Yellowstone? congrats, Herman – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Wolfgang,    Plano is my choice also.  They come in a wide variety of sizes and shapes. Ernie Harrison Jesus Ernie!  We’ve got to stop agreeing on everything like this or people are gonna start thinking we’re…well….you know.  Besides, despite Mike’s eloquent plea for restraint and good fellowship I kinda like the usual Sturm und Drang which characterizes this place.  Can’t we find something to fight about?

Response:

Too late! You two would make a *perfect* couple. How ’bout a honeymoon to Yellowstone?

Hey, back off Wolfie, Ernie’s mine.   GRRRRR.   ,      - Ken —

Response:

Well Wolfgang,    We could fight about where we are going to meet tonight. Ernie – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Wolfgang,    Plano is my choice also.  They come in a wide variety of sizes and shapes. Ernie Harrison Jesus Ernie!  We’ve got to stop agreeing on everything like this or people are gonna start thinking we’re…well….you know.  Besides, despite Mike’s eloquent plea for restraint and good fellowship I kinda like the usual Sturm und Drang which characterizes this place.  Can’t we find something to fight about?

Response:

Too late! You two would make a *perfect* couple. How ’bout a honeymoon to Yellowstone?

me think about this for a while.

Response:

The risk of Wheatley boxes (and their clones) is the dreaded Wheatley hatch. Flip one of the covers while you’re in the stream, and chances are that you loose half of the content. Just my 0.02 Euro worth..

LOL! "Wheatley Hatch" – I love it! I had one of those with a tiny Wheatley (Wheatlette?) box which was crammed with minutiae (24’s and smaller), while standing at the Cable Pool on the SJ. I still don’t know how many critters found their freedom that morning… I have two of those shirt-pocket size boxes – all the rest of my W’s use the foam strips. Lesson learned… /daytripper

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -Hi Odd question I know, but what is the best way to carry flies?  I have about 150 flys ranging from 22 gnats to size 6 streamers and am trying to find the best overall flybox. I just bought a perrine aluminum box which holds flys in a coil, this works for the size 10s-18s but is not quite so good for the larger flys and is useless for the 22s. Also, my flys are a mix of nymphs, drys and streamers. Should I put my drys in a compartmented fly box? or is the coil holder ok? Thanks KB

Plastic with ripple foam or compartments. 6 of em = 1 Wheatly. Joel Axelrad

Response:

Hi Mike

Hi Kevin, Suitable fly-boxes have always been a major problem, especially if you engage in several types of fly-fishing.( as I do ). I have found it impossible to find one fly-box suitable for all occasions, and I have tried every fly-boy available. The best ones (  apart from the Wheatleys ) are the ones I have made myself.  If the Wheatleys could be made in plastic ( Oh heresy !!!! ) and floated when dropped, and did not rot, and did not dent when  dropped on the only stone within half  a mile, they would be just about perfect. I started using the colour coded boxes fairly quickly, as the types and styles of fly I use increased beyond my capability of keeping track. There is nothing more annoying than trying to get a weighted nymph to float in the surface film !   I colour code my nymphs at the fly bench, depending on weight, but it is still a bloody nuisance picking them out of a full box, especially when the little red spot of varnish ( extra heavy, ten windings of lead  ! ) has worn off.  Colour coded boxes make the whole thing easier. I admit I am a fly freak, and carry anything up to ten thousand ( yes ! I mean it !!! ) flies on  any given trip, so I have a lot of experience. The magnetic solution is quite good, but still sometimes results in crushed hackles. The hooks are magnetised through contact with the magnets, and tend to spring into positions dependent on their intrinsic magnetic fields, which can be a nuisance, otherwise this method is about the best, especially for large flies. If you get the right shape of magnet, the flies are held securely without crushing. The display magnets I mentioned are very powerful, and will hold even large flies in a high wind. They will also hold tiny nymphs satisfactorily. You should have a look in a good stationary store ( artists supplies etc, ) they usually have wide selections of these magnets for pennies. Get the size and shape of magnets to suit your flies, you can glue several different magnets into one box if you wish, depending on how many types of flies you wish to carry. The reason I use the sandwich boxes is that the marabou and similar wings on large flies just will not fit in standard boxes without half the marabou or whatever, being trapped in the damn lid when you close the box. The sandwich boxes are much deeper.  One of the best boxes I have found is the "Curver" sandwich box. This is three inches deep, and carries pike and saltwater flies perfectly, without crushing, and without trapping stuff in the lid. I have several of these boxes ( they are cheap ) some lined with foam, and some with magnets, I have upwards of a thousand flies in each box. My "medium" size seatrout box contains over three thousand flies with ease. Have a good look round before you decide what to get. Half the fun is getting your gear together properly.  I have spent many a winter night "sorting" flies from one box to another, when I should have been tying. I enjoyed it just as much. I am sure you will get lots of advice on this theme here, and I am looking forward to hearing some of the replies myself. Fly containers are one of the biggest problems for the flyfisherman. TL MC

Response:

Line ??????  I think I just lost the drift ?    What the hell is the matter with you folks tonight ?  Or am I too many whiskies ahead ? Tight lines anyway, time for bed I think. MC

Response:

Nah! Nah! Nah! Nah Nah! Naaaaah! Well, maybe the nerve is the SECOND thing to go George! twitch twitch _______  I would not touch this line with a twenty foot fly rod. Self control George!  Self control! 1,2, 3 . . . pant, pant! I will not rise to this drift/troll.

– Wayne To fish is human….To release Divine! Share what you know. Learn what you don’t.

Response:

The risk of Wheatley boxes (and their clones) is the dreaded Wheatley hatch. Flip one of the covers while you’re in the stream, and chances are that you loose half of the content.  Just my 0.02 Euro worth.. Cheers, Herman – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Hi Mike Thanks for your reply.  I’ll look around for the wheatley boxes you suggest. Hi Kevin, A knockoff of the Wheatley box (about  1/3 of the price) is the Okuma. Here is the link for an Okuma from my site. Be warned, it is a good box but it is not the quality of a Wheatley. http://www.ezflyfish.com/ezflyfish/okwinflybox.html For streamers, I like a saltwater style plastic compartmentalized boxes, they segregate the patterns well and it is easy to see what is in each box. an example: http://www.ezflyfish.com/ezflyfish/corunflybox1.html if you have any questions, feel free to ask me… apologies to the group… "John’s" e-mail address is fake. –Walt — Ezflyfish.com                 Blue Ridge Book Gallery Quality Gear & Service        Used & Out-of-Print Books http://www.ezflyfish.com      http://www.abebooks.com/home/BLUEBOOKS P.O. Box 5112  Banner Elk, NC 28604 (828)963-5001

– Cheers, Herman Herman Nijland Daytime webmaster Lifetime flyfisher

Response:

Hi Odd question I know, but what is the best way to carry flies?  I have about 150 flys ranging from 22 gnats to size 6 streamers and am trying to find the best overall flybox. I just bought a perrine aluminum box which holds flys in a coil, this works for the size 10s-18s but is not quite so good for the larger flys and is useless for the 22s. Also, my flys are a mix of nymphs, drys and streamers. Should I put my drys in a compartmented fly box? or is the coil holder ok? Thanks KB

Response:

. . .  am trying to find the best overall flybox.

I use transparent plastic boxes (Myran? Myrant?, something like that), except for a Wheatley swing-leaf given me as a gift.  In one, about 4×6" I keep all the dries I might be using.  The Wheatley gets all the nymphs for the day.  In several other divided plastic boxes I separate flies by dry or nymph, big and little, but these are pretty much for storage, and stay in the duffle.  Big streamers, nymphs, etc., live in their own box. I just bought a perrine aluminum box which holds flys in a coil

Mine got rusty years and years ago, the hooks got rusty too.  Am I a lazy slut, or what? Anglerboy — Trout fear me, Women want me.

Response:

Hi Mike Thanks for your reply.  I’ll look around for the wheatley boxes you suggest. I was trying to see if there was just one box I could carry (being the minimalist that I am), but I think that  you’re right, keeping them stored in color coded boxes probably makes more sense. That way I can get boxes that match the size of the hooks too. Using magnetic fly holders is a darn fine idea!  Do you find the hooks stick OK even when they are jossled around a bit? Do you have any bother with your streamers hanging out the sides of the boxes? I use lots of marabou so the flies are quite bulky. One of the problems I’ve had is finding a box big enough to store them without having to carry a suitcase. Thanks. It’s very helpful to get your advice. Otherwise I’d end up using trial and error and buying a bunch of boxes that are no good. Kevin

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – A vexed question.   For dry flies and spiders I use Wheatleys compartment boxes. Not ideal, and expensive, but about the best I have used to date. For streamers and standard wet flies and nymphs in all sizes, I use scientific anglers ethafoam lined boxes colour coded so I know which is which, cheap and effective. Works great unless you use barbless hooks. For barbless hooks I use Sandwich boxes from my local supermarket, with strips of magnetic tape glued in. I coat the tape with epoxy to prevent it rusting. There are also various shaped magnets for display boards available, which may be glued into boxes and used for the same purpose. Coat with epoxy to prevent rusting. For small amounts of flies a used small  film canister of clear plastic is a great and cheap container. Just don’t put too many flies in one canister. The same canister drilled all around with small holes and affixed to a lanyard on your vest, jacket etc, makes a great drying box. TL MC

Response:

In one, about 4×6" I keep all the dries I might be using.  

Hmm, I was wondering if drys are better in compartments rather than clipped on. I found it tricky putting them in the coil without crushing the hackle. The Wheatley gets all the nymphs for the day.  In several other divided plastic boxes I separate flies by dry or nymph, big and little, but these are pretty much for storage, and stay in the duffle.  Big streamers, nymphs, etc., live in their own box.

So you don’t use any sort of clipping system at all? Just compartments? Is this easier to find the flys? I just bought a perrine aluminum box which holds flys in a coil Mine got rusty years and years ago, the hooks got rusty too.  Am I a lazy slut, or what?

Oh great! I just spent $26 on the damn thing! Said on the packaging that it won’t rust! Kevin Trout laugh at me, Women walk on me.

Response:

Hi Mike Thanks for your reply.  I’ll look around for the wheatley boxes you suggest.

Hi Kevin, A knockoff of the Wheatley box (about  1/3 of the price) is the Okuma. Here is the link for an Okuma from my site. Be warned, it is a good box but it is not the quality of a Wheatley. http://www.ezflyfish.com/ezflyfish/okwinflybox.html For streamers, I like a saltwater style plastic compartmentalized boxes, they segregate the patterns well and it is easy to see what is in each box. an example: http://www.ezflyfish.com/ezflyfish/corunflybox1.html if you have any questions, feel free to ask me… apologies to the group… "John’s" e-mail address is fake. –Walt — Ezflyfish.com                 Blue Ridge Book Gallery Quality Gear & Service        Used & Out-of-Print Books http://www.ezflyfish.com      http://www.abebooks.com/home/BLUEBOOKS P.O. Box 5112  Banner Elk, NC 28604 (828)963-5001

Response:

I just bought my 11 year old son a Cabela’s box with the nubby stuff instead of foam.  We got home and put some flies in it then pulled them out.  It works!  It holds well and lets them go when you pull.  I dropped it about 2 feet onto a table to see how many flies came loose and none did.  (I am pretty sure weighted streamers might pop out under those conditions.) I am thinking about picking some up for myself. (No association with Cabela’s other than as a paying customer.) — — Sherman Dunnam www.flyfishingjournal.com Stream Reports, Free Fishing Software & More

Response:

Whatever your name is AKA John Smith, I tried fooling around with different size boxes for sorting flys and it seemed like a damn fine idea.  What I discovered was the multiple boxes take up more room than a single larger box.  When I tried to create specialty boxes for different fishing situations (ie, small stream box) I always left out the flys I wanted when I got on stream.  I now carry two boxes, one for trout and one for smallmouth.  Bluegill and largemouth are fed from the smallmouth box.  The Millstream box with ripples on both sides worked better in the long run than the nubs in my Cortland box.  I’m going to drill a few holes to facilitate drying if I take a dunking (has happened a couple of times) as the boxes are not waterproof.  Most plastic boxes with ripple foam are manufactured by or knockoffs of the Millstream. Granddaddy always told me a man should be willing to sign his name to anything he writes.  If he’s not willing to sign his name then his word isn’t worth the paper its written on.  If you’re afraid of a little SPAM then get the hell off the internet.  You spend more time ducking it than deleting the crap. Wayne To fish is human…to release Divine. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Hi Odd question I know, but what is the best way to carry flies?  I have about 150 flys ranging from 22 gnats to size 6 streamers and am trying to find the best overall flybox. I just bought a perrine aluminum box which holds flys in a coil, this works for the size 10s-18s but is not quite so good for the larger flys and is useless for the 22s. Also, my flys are a mix of nymphs, drys and streamers. Should I put my drys in a compartmented fly box? or is the coil holder ok? Thanks KB

Response:

_______  I would not touch this line with a twenty foot fly rod. Self control George!  Self control! 1,2, 3 . . . pant, pant! I will not rise to this drift/troll.

Response:

A vexed question.   For dry flies and spiders I use Wheatleys compartment boxes. Not ideal, and expensive, but about the best I have used to date. For streamers and standard wet flies and nymphs in all sizes, I use scientific anglers ethafoam lined boxes colour coded so I know which is which, cheap and effective. Works great unless you use barbless hooks.  For barbless hooks I use Sandwich boxes from my local supermarket, with strips of magnetic tape glued in. I coat the tape with epoxy to prevent it rusting. There are also various shaped magnets for display boards available, which may be glued into boxes and used for the same purpose. Coat with epoxy to prevent rusting. For small amounts of flies a used small  film canister of clear plastic is a great and cheap container. Just don’t put too many flies in one canister. The same canister drilled all around with small holes and affixed to a lanyard on your vest, jacket etc, makes a great drying box. TL MC

Response:

Wolfgang,    Plano is my choice also.  They come in a wide variety of sizes and shapes. Ernie Harrison

Jesus Ernie!  We’ve got to stop agreeing on everything like this or people are gonna start thinking we’re…well….you know.  Besides, despite Mike’s eloquent plea for restraint and good fellowship I kinda like the usual Sturm und Drang which characterizes this place.  Can’t we find something to fight about?

Response:

The cheapest and a very effective example is a plastic box lined with foam.  You can buy a Wheatley if you have the extra money to spend. Forrest Arakawa Forrest – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – A vexed question.   For dry flies and spiders I use Wheatleys compartment boxes. Not ideal, and expensive, but about the best I have used to date. For streamers and standard wet flies and nymphs in all sizes, I use scientific anglers ethafoam lined boxes colour coded so I know which is which, cheap and effective. Works great unless you use barbless hooks.  For barbless hooks I use Sandwich boxes from my local supermarket, with strips of magnetic tape glued in. I coat the tape with epoxy to prevent it rusting. There are also various shaped magnets for display boards available, which may be glued into boxes and used for the same purpose. Coat with epoxy to prevent rusting. For small amounts of flies a used small  film canister of clear plastic is a great and cheap container. Just don’t put too many flies in one canister. The same canister drilled all around with small holes and affixed to a lanyard on your vest, jacket etc, makes a great drying box. TL MC

Share what you know. Learn what you don’t.

Response:

Wolfgang,    Plano is my choice also.  They come in a wide variety of sizes and shapes. Ernie Harrison – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – For the past ten years or so I have used Plano mini (or is it micro?) magnum boxes exclusively.  These boxes are about 3×4 inches and open on both top and bottom.  There are several sizes of compartments which will accommodate all sizes of flies with the exception of mammoth salt water or pike and musky patterns.  I know it is heresy to suggest that one keep one’s delicate dries in a loose jumble but it has never done mine any damage.  These boxes have the added advantage of being transparent allowing you to see what you’ve got without opening.  They are also VERY cheap; in the neighborhood of two to three bucks a piece. Good luck.

Response:

Hi Odd question I know, but what is the best way to carry flies?

John; For the past ten years or so I have used Plano mini (or is it micro?) magnum boxes exclusively.  These boxes are about 3×4 inches and open on both top and bottom.  There are several sizes of compartments which will accommodate all sizes of flies with the exception of mammoth salt water or pike and musky patterns.  I know it is heresy to suggest that one keep one’s delicate dries in a loose jumble but it has never done mine any damage.  These boxes have the added advantage of being transparent allowing you to see what you’ve got without opening.  They are also VERY cheap; in the neighborhood of two to three bucks a piece. Good luck.

Response:

If there is any possibility of loss of flies due to spill or wind you must leave these on the mantel at home. They have no place astream. Your pal, – TimW, Halfordian Golfer "A Cash Flow Runs Through It…" "Guilt replaced the creel…"

Response:

I’m afraid you’re too many whiskeys behind. Line ??????  I think I just lost the drift ?    What the hell is the matter with you folks tonight ?  Or am I too many whiskies ahead ? Tight lines anyway, time for bed I think. MC

– Cheers, Herman Herman Nijland Daytime webmaster Lifetime flyfisher

Response:

Question:

Thank you Azure. I hope you are well, spike – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Hi Noen; You are welcome. A) I’m scared of Alan. B) He is nice to the new ppl like you. C) He is nice to the ca girls. D) Or It’s because he has been here about 3 years longer that you. I have seen extraordinary acts of kindness from him, and has earned certain rights, that as a boundary i don’t allow all ppl to have. In short he is pretty fly for a white guy. He has that punk ethos happening, i respect that. With love, spike But really the number one reason, is the way he flames ppl that ask stupid questions or when a new person thinks they have things all figured out, and they get a post from Alan. (uproarious giggles) Spike, you have a hilarious way of hitting the nail right on the head. azure drop ‘trou’ to reply — For more information about this posting service, contact: If you want an anonymous account, visit our sign-up page: http://asarian-host.org/emailform.html

Response:

Hi Colin; Yikes beats me. Maybe your news reader doesn’t like doing it. For some reason, it doesn’t work with the new icq proper either. Try it with a word app, like notepad, if it does, it’s that agent warez, you are using. It’s the right-hand number pad you are using right? I’m good, thank you, it’s nice you are back. How is life? You are building now? Roofing and framing? Hey if you need a garage door(s) i’ll tell you how it get it very cheap, and if the fishing is as good as i hear, in that area, i’ll hang it for free. Are your finger nails that pretty purple color, framers always have? Take care and use a level and square, spike – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – 0233=

Question:

I must have missed the post describing how to vote.  This is not hard to do in an area as cluttered as this one. I want to vote YES.  How do I do it? Thanks, Jack Jack from Taxacola (formerly Pensacola), Florida

Jack: Like you, I missed the first CFV. The new (and final) CFV was posted one or two days ago (it is now 2-12). Just find & read it, and it will tell you how to cast your ballot. I did just that when I first found it. If you vote, then your vote will cancel mine. Fair is fair. Actually, that depends on your definition of the word "fair". Because it takes a 2/3 vote to create the new group, your vote counts half as much as mine. Regards (and good gardening); Bill — Center for Room Temperature Confusion

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I must have missed the post describing how to vote.  This is not hard to do in an area as cluttered as this one. I want to vote YES.  How do I do it? Thanks, Jack Jack from Taxacola (formerly Pensacola), Florida I vote YES on rec.gardens.edible

While I think this was done in innocence, let me please remind everyone that voting should be done from the original CFV ballot, not by writing a line someone tells you to. You can find a CFV in DejaNews, or request one by email from the votetaker. Ginger

Response:

I am grabbing this message as an example.  Ginger is entirely correct in her message.  THE ONLY WAY TO VOTE IS TO REPLY TO THE CFV.  I am not trying to yell, but I want that line to grab your attention if nothing else does. The voting on CFV rec.gardens.edible has indeed started.  You should see or have seen a message entitled CFV: rec.gardens.edible (Jani Patokallio) This is the OFFICIAL call for votes message.  If you missed it, it will appear again as 2nd CFV:rec.gardens.edible (Jani Patokallio) sometime soon.  You should only reply once (unless you change your mind) to EITHER message.  You don’t need to vote twice.   Read the CFV or 2nd CFV very closely.  It details how to vote. You should not vote by "just sending email to Jani with I vote __" because someone tells you it is the right way.  Your vote MAY not be counted. (Example: Calling the election committee to vote for Bob Dole) You should not vote by replying to a CFV that was emailed to you by a friend.  This could also cause your vote to be disallowed.   (Example: filling out Bob Dole on the ballot Newt sent you, even if it is word for word the same) You should not vote by replying to any other message besides the OFFICIAL CFV.  If you replied to one of the above threads(Vote Yes or Vote No) with a "me too" and THOUGHT you were voting, you were not. (Example: Calling Newt and telling him Dole has your vote) Your vote is important to the future of rec.gardens.edible irrespective of which way you vote.  I would prefer that you make your vote count.  That way we get a true representation of the internet gardening community. (Example: You driving your own car to your local elementary school and pulling a lever) Again, if you have any questions, please respond via post to this message.  No email to me please. Scott proponent rec.gardens.edible

I must have missed the post describing how to vote.  This is not hard to do in an area as cluttered as this one. I want to vote YES.  How do I do it? Thanks, Jack Jack from Taxacola (formerly Pensacola), Florida I vote YES on rec.gardens.edible While I think this was done in innocence, let me please remind everyone that voting should be done from the original CFV ballot, not by writing a line someone tells you to. You can find a CFV in DejaNews, or request one by email from the votetaker. Ginger                  Scott D. Jung http://www.geocities.com/SunsetStrip/2392 http://www.netcom.com/~jung Remove the FIX-ME to send email.

Response:

I must have missed the post describing how to vote.  This is not hard to do in an area as cluttered as this one. I want to vote YES.  How do I do it? Thanks, Jack Jack from Taxacola (formerly Pensacola), Florida

I vote YES on rec.gardens.edible

Response:

I must have missed the post describing how to vote.  This is not hard to do in an area as cluttered as this one. I want to vote YES.  How do I do it? Thanks, Jack Jack from Taxacola (formerly Pensacola), Florida

   There was an RFV (Request for Vote) with a detailed proposal posted on Jan 31 to all of the garden related newsgroups.  It was the first call for votes and will be officially posted again before the voting is closed. You might be able to find it by looking in a group with less traffic (It’s still on my server in triangle.gardens for example) and setting the entire set of messages to unread.    I’m not sure if reposting it is acceptable, but I’ll ask one of the originators if they will do it again since it seems to have been widely missed.  I only saw it on triangle.gardens. — Lloyd Fortney http://www.phy.duke.edu/~fortney/ has links to my garden, flower, flyfishing, and travel JPEG images as well as teaching, research, and stuff like that

Response:

I must have missed the post describing how to vote.  This is not hard to do in an area as cluttered as this one. I want to vote YES.  How do I do it?

The CFV would also be available in news.announce.newgroups.  It will also be posted once more before the end of the voting period. Note that because of fraudulent campaigning on other votes in the past by some individuals, providing someone with instructions on how to vote with anything other than the full, uneditted CFV is considered a big no-no.  If someone out there still has the CFV on their machine, reposting it is okay, but just posting the bare instructions is not. — Mary Conner

Response:

I must have missed the post describing how to vote.  This is not hard to do in an area as cluttered as this one. I want to vote YES.  How do I do it? Thanks, Jack Jack from Taxacola (formerly Pensacola), Florida

Response:

Question:

I am going to Anchorage on business on Sep 25-26 and would like to know whether there is any possibility of flyfishing nearby on Saturday the 27th. I can’t stay long so the fishing has to be accessible. Any ideas about what I might be able to find? If so what gear should I bring? Thanks in advance, Mike —                      Michael S. Young The RREEF Funds, 650 California Street, San Francisco, CA 94108           "Chaos is normal; normality is exceptional."

Response:

I am going to Anchorage on business on Sep 25-26 and would like to know whether there is any possibility of flyfishing nearby on Saturday the 27th. I can’t stay long so the fishing has to be accessible. Any ideas about what I might be able to find? If so what gear should I bring? Thanks in advance, Mike —                     Michael S. Young The RREEF Funds, 650 California Street, San Francisco, CA 94108          "Chaos is normal; normality is exceptional."

That’s pretty late in the season, but if the weather holds ther is some dynamite fishing on the upper Kenai River 100 miles south of Anchorage. I’ve caught some BIG rainbows around then, but it’ll be cold and you’ll probably be breaking ice out of your guides. 7 or 8 wt are the right size. You might tie into a silver and tehre are always dollies around. A float trip is about the only good way to fish it. It can easily be an afternoon trip. For conditions and guide recommendations call McAffee’s Fly Shop in Anchorage – sorry don’t have the number where I can lay hands on it. Lance    web stuff at: www.primenet.com/~hankins

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I am going to Anchorage on business on Sep 25-26 and would like to know whether there is any possibility of flyfishing nearby on Saturday the 27th. I can’t stay long so the fishing has to be accessible. Any ideas about what I might be able to find? If so what gear should I bring? Thanks in advance, Mike —                     Michael S. Young The RREEF Funds, 650 California Street, San Francisco, CA 94108          "Chaos is normal; normality is exceptional." That’s pretty late in the season, but if the weather holds ther is some dynamite fishing on the upper Kenai River 100 miles south of Anchorage. I’ve caught some BIG rainbows around then, but it’ll be cold and you’ll probably be breaking ice out of your guides. 7 or 8 wt are the right size. You might tie into a silver and tehre are always dollies around. A float trip is about the only good way to fish it. It can easily be an afternoon trip. For conditions and guide recommendations call McAffee’s Fly Shop in Anchorage – sorry don’t have the number where I can lay hands on it. Lance    web stuff at: www.primenet.com/~hankins

Should not realy be that cold in late September…and the upper Kenai is a good bet as is the Russian River if you walk upstream of the campgrounds. These are both a 2-2.5 hour drive south of Anchorage. Give me a call when you get to the state, if I’m not on a trip I’d be happy to hook up with you and show you around. Paul Hansen Alaska Rainbow Adventures http://puffin.ptialaska.net/~icewater Paul Hansen

Response:

Question:

        My Fly Fishing Club,  The Kisatchie Fly Fishers,  is considering affiliating with the Federation of Fly Fishers.  I was appointed to find out what is required and how much it costs.  I need some information on who to call and talk to or who write to.         Our club is only a year old and in this part of Louisiana, Alexandria,  dead in the middle of the State,  fly fishing is not the traditional favorite that it is in many other parts of the country. I would appreciate any advice anyone in the group has to offer concerning affiliation.         Thanks in advance                 Tom

Response:

Hi Tom, I’m glad to see you are planning on affliating with the Federation of Fly Fishers.  They are a good group.  For information on affiliation, etc. call the National Office at 1-800-618-0808. Good Luck Al Beatty (former FFF President) BT’s Fly Fishing Products Bozeman, MT

Response:

   My Fly Fishing Club,  The Kisatchie Fly Fishers,  is considering affiliating with the Federation of Fly Fishers.

The FFF is a good organization to join to help support your fly fishing fix. They have all kinds of publications and ideas to help build membership in your club, hence their club. It costs $25 for a club to join for up to 25 members. Any members more than $25 are an extra $1 per member.

Response:

Question:

I will be in Estes July 7 and 8 and expect to have some time to wet a line. I’d appreciate any suggestions on streams to try. I fear the Big Thompson is overcrowded and fished out, and in any event I’d prefer smaller streams, especialy as this trip is a break in this Easterner’s   3 week visit to some of Montana’s bigger rivers. Thanks.   Phil Holt

All of the streams in Colorado are running VERY high.  Your best bet would be lake fishing or perhaps higher in Rocky Mountain National Park.  Check with Estes Anglers (I don’t have the phone handy) for any other spots.  It is going to be a disappointing weekend in Colorado, we have more rain last night and today.  Snow closed Trail Ridge Road (south of Estes Park) last night.  Some of the passes I am used to traversing this time of year are still closed due to snow. Bob McDuffee Network Services Manager, WICHE Office:303.541.0299 Fax:303.541.0291

Response:

You’re in for a real treat! I vacationed in Rocky Mountain Nat’l Park last summer and fished some of the smaller streams there with a guide, Todd, from the Estes Angler.   Todd showed me some secluded spots on the Big Thompson (above the lake, where the stream is anything but big) and Glacier Creek.  I also fished on my own on the North Branch of the St. Vrain River.   The fish aren’t real big, but they sure are beautiful — and fun to catch.   In 3 1/2 days of fishing I managed the "grand slam" — rainbow, brown, brook and cutthroat.   The concern this year, of course, is the runoff situation.  It was the opposite last year when the rivers were running low. If you go, take short, light rods with you.  These aren’t big western rivers; they are small mountain streams.  A lot of time you will be fising with nothing but your fly and leader on the water. Have a great trip!

Response:

Ok, you said you like smaller streams… I fished cow creek when I was in Estes this same time last summer. You have to walk about 1 mile from the parking area, the stream is very small (you can jump across it in places), and it is thick with brush along the banks.  That is, until you get to the beaver ponds!.  They are clear, clear, clear and the little brookies in there are spooky but willing. They are small fish (6-8" so I mean small).  But, I used very light tackle and if I did a reasonable job of not making myself too obvious, they rose willingly to dries.  The ponds are not deep, and you can site many fish to cast to. Stealth, delicate casting, and fish! Anyway, if that is the type of fishing you like, check out cow creek.  

Response:

I will be in Estes July 7 and 8 and expect to have some time to wet a line. I’d appreciate any suggestions on streams to try. I fear the Big Thompson is overcrowded and fished out, and in any event I’d prefer smaller streams, especialy as this trip is a break in this Easterner’s   3 week visit to some of Montana’s bigger rivers. Thanks.   Phil Holt

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Question:

I’ll be teaching at Hollins College in Roanoke for the spring semester, February-May, and wonder if I should bring my gear with me…I know nothing about the nearby fishing, though I’ve fished some of the eastern streams.

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I spend some time down in the Blacksburg area (Va Tech grad) and I’d like to hear about fly fishing opportunities in SW VA.  So if you find out anything, let me know!   Thanks

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South fork of the HOlston river.  Opposite the hatchery for about 200 yards up and downstream.  incredibly huge trout.  average is around 4 pounds.  tough turf.  go small and pray for rain.  two weeks ago i landed a 23" rainbow.  no joke.  Bob Crawshaw  Flyfishing Virginia, L.L.C.   804-467-6668

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