Question:

Apologies if this is the wrong place to post this, but a buddy of mine with a Champ and me with my Archer are looking to share a hangar in the Bay Area.  Haven’t found anything but waiting lists, so I thought I’d post here. Any help would be greatly appreciated. best, Miles N6819J

Response:

Hi Mike,     The Bay Area is an absolute nightmare to obtain hanger space.  Most of the airports have LONG waiting lists (like three years).  I think you really only have two options while you wait for a hanger to become available. 1) Settle for a tie-down instead of a hanger (much more available) 2) Hanger your planes much farther away at an outlying bay-area community though they can be just as bad. Even here in the Sacramento valley hangers are at a premium.  I wish I could afford moving to one of the communities where you can taxi your plane into your house-hanger. Good luck, Jeff Wiens N19480

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Apologies if this is the wrong place to post this, but a buddy of mine with a Champ and me with my Archer are looking to share a hangar in the Bay Area.  Haven’t found anything but waiting lists, so I thought I’d post here. Any help would be greatly appreciated. best, Miles N6819J

Response:

Apologies if this is the wrong place to post this, but a buddy of mine with a Champ and me with my Archer are looking to share a hangar in the Bay Area.  Haven’t found anything but waiting lists, so I thought I’d post here.

I met someone the other day who lives in San Jose and said he had just gotten a hangar in Concord.  That’s a drive I would get tired of very fast, but it might be the best you can do. Walter

Response:

Various FBOs will rent you space.  It is going to be expensive, probably close to $500/mo, each.  Tie downs are available.  Also someone said you could rent a hangar in Byron. Another option is to check the boards at the various FBOs and airports, sometimes people are looking for hangar mates. Regarding waiting lists, I am on the hangar list at Livermore.  Been on the single hangar list for 4 years, had an option for a sun shade but passed that up, might get a hangar in 4 more years.  On the twin list for two years, expect to be on that list for 10 years more.  jerry

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Apologies if this is the wrong place to post this, but a buddy of mine with a Champ and me with my Archer are looking to share a hangar in the Bay Area.  Haven’t found anything but waiting lists, so I thought I’d post here. Any help would be greatly appreciated. best, Miles N6819J

Response:

I used to live in Novato and I can tell you that I have frequently flown the approach to Gnoss (and Petaluma) and reached minimums before reaching the TOP of the clouds.   I usually fly there in the summer to go fishing in Tomales Bay, so I need to get in early..  I would not want to be based there. Mike MU-2 – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – thanks all, for the feedback. I’m currently tied down at Buchanan in Concord, about 35 min from my swingin’ bachelor pad in the city.  That’s about as far as I’d care to go.  Gnoss would be an ideal choice, but I haven’t done my homework yet on how often the little airport by the bay gets socked in (not to mention getting myself on the list(s) there).  Concord may yet prove to be the best thing going, having both drier conditions and instrument approches, assuming I don’t often want to fly shortly after evening rush hour. thought I might catch someone on this list who needs to sublet for a while, either at concord or elsewhere. best, Miles Various FBOs will rent you space.  It is going to be expensive, probably close to $500/mo, each.  Tie downs are available.  Also someone said you could rent a hangar in Byron. Another option is to check the boards at the various FBOs and airports, sometimes people are looking for hangar mates. Regarding waiting lists, I am on the hangar list at Livermore.  Been on the single hangar list for 4 years, had an option for a sun shade but passed that up, might get a hangar in 4 more years.  On the twin list for two years, expect to be on that list for 10 years more.  jerry Apologies if this is the wrong place to post this, but a buddy of mine with a Champ and me with my Archer are looking to share a hangar in the Bay Area.  Haven’t found anything but waiting lists, so I thought I’d post here. Any help would be greatly appreciated. best, Miles N6819J

Response:

thanks all, for the feedback. I’m currently tied down at Buchanan in Concord, about 35 min from my swingin’ bachelor pad in the city.  That’s about as far as I’d care to go.  Gnoss would be an ideal choice, but I haven’t done my homework yet on how often the little airport by the bay gets socked in (not to mention getting myself on the list(s) there).  Concord may yet prove to be the best thing going, having both drier conditions and instrument approches, assuming I don’t often want to fly shortly after evening rush hour. thought I might catch someone on this list who needs to sublet for a while, either at concord or elsewhere. best, Miles – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Various FBOs will rent you space.  It is going to be expensive, probably close to $500/mo, each.  Tie downs are available.  Also someone said you could rent a hangar in Byron. Another option is to check the boards at the various FBOs and airports, sometimes people are looking for hangar mates. Regarding waiting lists, I am on the hangar list at Livermore.  Been on the single hangar list for 4 years, had an option for a sun shade but passed that up, might get a hangar in 4 more years.  On the twin list for two years, expect to be on that list for 10 years more.  jerry Apologies if this is the wrong place to post this, but a buddy of mine with a Champ and me with my Archer are looking to share a hangar in the Bay Area.  Haven’t found anything but waiting lists, so I thought I’d post here. Any help would be greatly appreciated. best, Miles N6819J

Response:

Question:

Hi,   We’re planning a trip to Vermont for a few days in mid-August following a visit to Boston to attend a wedding (we’re in California). We’d like to find a nice B&B or inn where we can get in some hiking and ff. Any recommendations? Thanks, Gary

Response:

We’re planning a trip to Vermont for a few days in mid-August following a visit to Boston to attend a wedding (we’re in California). We’d like to find a nice B&B or inn where we can get in some hiking and ff. Any recommendations? Thanks, Gary

Gary, Check out By The Old Mill Stream … if you cannot find them on the web, drop me an email, and I will get it for you.  The owner, Steve, is a real nice guy and a fly fisher himself. All the best, Jame

Response:

The reluctant panther in manchester village is wonderful and is 50 feet from the fly fishing museum, 150 feet from the original site of Orvis, 7.5 minute walk from Orvis headquaters, accross the street from glen eagles golf course and virtually next door to the Equinox Hotel (get directions to their pond..located up the mountai behind the hotel..very nice lake bows). The restaurant is wonderful in the inn.  you’ll love it!! I. Clair

Response:

Question:

What am I doing wrong???? Thanks.

–Fish just the high tide change.   A hour before to a hour after the change in high tide.  Have a beer and relaxe, they probably won’t bite any other time of the day. Sharp Hooks, Pat Holdzit Fishing Products Inc. http://www.holdzit.com Before you buy.

Response:

Hi Derek, As Chris mentioned below, Silvers can get very hard to catch after they have entered the river. If you are still in the tide water of this river I would try to go upstream to the top pool where the fish hold waiting for rain or go downstream to the mouth or closer to the ocean where they are more aggressive. I would try morning and evening and on the outgoing tide? We fish for them every year south of Cordova, Alaska right on the ocean where they are almost like stripers in the surf. We use only floating lines and when it is smooth on top and not too windy, we use Pink Pollywogs on top that are clipped deer hair poppers. If you can wade for them at the mouth of a river, they are way more aggressive. — Bill Kiene Kiene’s Fly Shop Sacramento, CA, USA www.kiene.com

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Help!  I suck at fly fishing for coho.  I have been trying unsuccessfully for about 3 outings so far to catch coho on the fly on the Capilano River, in North Vancouver.  I’ve concentrated on one pool in particular that looks like a fly should work.  Slow-moving, deep pool.  Gravel bank on one side and steep canyon wall on the far side.  Casting both a 14ft fast sink tip and a floating line in all sorts of water conditions, from turbid to crystal clear, and river conditions from unwadable to low and clear. I’ve been trying muddler minnows, mylar body minows, red, yellow and silver needlefish, leeches, mickey finns, you name it.  Been stripping fairly fast, in 8 inch pulls, as I read was the preferred technique. I see the odd coho porpoising on the surface, and guys catching a few using spoons. What am I doing wrong???? Thanks.

Response:

Salmon fishing with a fly is one of those things that you just have to put a lot of time in before you catch one.   Three outings is nothing, I know a fellow who spent three seasons at it before he caught one, then things started to pick up for him.  Fishing for West Coast Salmon and Steel Head with a fly is a difficult, but enjoyable. Ernie

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Help!  I suck at fly fishing for coho.  I have been trying unsuccessfully for about 3 outings so far to catch coho on the fly on the Capilano River, in North Vancouver.  I’ve concentrated on one pool in particular that looks like a fly should work.  Slow-moving, deep pool.  Gravel bank on one side and steep canyon wall on the far side.  Casting both a 14ft fast sink tip and a floating line in all sorts of water conditions, from turbid to crystal clear, and river conditions from unwadable to low and clear. I’ve been trying muddler minnows, mylar body minows, red, yellow and silver needlefish, leeches, mickey finns, you name it.  Been stripping fairly fast, in 8 inch pulls, as I read was the preferred technique. I see the odd coho porpoising on the surface, and guys catching a few using spoons. What am I doing wrong???? Thanks.

Response:

Salmon fishing with a fly is one of those things that you just have to put a lot of time in before you catch one.   Three outings is nothing, I know a fellow who spent three seasons at it before he caught one, then things started to pick up for him.  Fishing for West Coast Salmon and Steel Head with a fly is a difficult, but enjoyable. Ernie

the other thing he can try is fishing for the coho out in the saltwater when they are actually feeding… makes a big difference in the aggressiveness of the coho.  out in the salt the coho are super aggressive and they bite well.   but the coho in the rivers definetely seem to turn on and off.  when they are off, they will hit nothing, no matter what.  try off-color water and early morning times, they have worked better than anything else for me. chris

Response:

Help!  I suck at fly fishing for coho.  I have been trying unsuccessfully for about 3 outings so far to catch coho on the fly on the Capilano River, in North Vancouver.  I’ve concentrated on one pool in particular that looks like a fly should work.  Slow-moving, deep pool.  Gravel bank on one side and steep canyon wall on the far side.  Casting both a 14ft fast sink tip and a floating line in all sorts of water conditions, from turbid to crystal clear, and river conditions from unwadable to low and clear. I’ve been trying muddler minnows, mylar body minows, red, yellow and silver needlefish, leeches, mickey finns, you name it.  Been stripping fairly fast, in 8 inch pulls, as I read was the preferred technique. I see the odd coho porpoising on the surface, and guys catching a few using spoons. What am I doing wrong???? Thanks.

Response:

Question:

Mike K&K Flyfishers                  Rainbow Fly 8643 Grant                         17201 E 40 Hwy Overland Park Ks               Independence Mo 913-341-8118                      816-373-2283 See if this works for you it does for me. Tight Loops Bo – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – —–BEGIN PGP SIGNED MESSAGE—– I’m not much of a tier yet. Does anybody know of any good fly shops in the Kansas City/Topeka area? I need some lures for spring, before I get driven to true desperation (using Berkeley plastic crawdads on a fly rod). d Try alt.fishing. — Doug Knight                                     metalfab<atpacbell.net Junk e-mail, solicitation, sales, products and services gladly accepted at $500.00 per mailing and billed directly to your ISP.

Response:

—–BEGIN PGP SIGNED MESSAGE—– I’m not much of a tier yet. Does anybody know of any good fly shops in the Kansas City/Topeka area? I need some lures for spring, before I get driven to true desperation (using Berkeley plastic crawdads on a fly rod). Even better…if you know of a fly shop in that general area that also does a good casting lesson, well, god only knows I need the help. I can usually chuck a fly about 50′, but only if there’s no obstructions and no wind. I’d also take an online fly shop or fly tier, if you know of any. —–BEGIN PGP SIGNATURE—– Version: 2.6.2 iQEVAwUBNsPyXJdiUzdLFqlpAQFARAf+JaW83oC4hAMAoQCQRVZyxFv/a5urF1cU SQaOpNteU8Z6etNM388F3CYvAniwa+dwmdCGCMT/SOQHEHBuHczj9/hrhXk+28+b M7goNl5kgIhd+zMR9LdsHt/NbW42PATuYNdsWV0Wf1tHfKGKGc98hdyF5w0/lJak xQU44Yt/PY5440MIn64YeAOtChSn4lPXYP3xyXB0a1oy221zZ6mWJkWaJb/yOHO1 Oo3Gv1kfGpgrBV8OQhx8WK/cGq+lulrQH3Dvpmn9UxXXrmr9azCPf5TJ0A0vnQrV zqwf/uEMbEnHJe6KIG8flAhLn51N65ysIr9LRGtXqYzuFltj9MmuxA== =Waa4 —–END PGP SIGNATURE—– Mike S. Medintz, http://www.grapevine.net/~medintz "Can’t keep my eyes from the circling skies,  Tongue-tied and twisted, just an earthbound misfit, I" -Pink Floyd

Response:

—–BEGIN PGP SIGNED MESSAGE—– I’m not much of a tier yet. Does anybody know of any good fly shops in the Kansas City/Topeka area? I need some lures for spring, before I get driven to true desperation (using Berkeley plastic crawdads on a fly rod). d

Try alt.fishing. — Doug Knight                                     metalfab<atpacbell.net Junk e-mail, solicitation, sales, products and services gladly accepted at $500.00 per mailing and billed directly to your ISP.

Response:

Question:

Anyone have any recent info on water and hatch conditions on the Bighorn river below Yellowtail dam? Thanks, Don

Response:

Anyone have any recent info on water and hatch conditions on the Bighorn river below Yellowtail dam? Thanks, Don

Hi Don The water is high but fishing is good on subsurface patterns.  I’m not sure about the hatches.   Tight Lines Al Beatty BT’s Fly Fishing Products Bozeman, MT (96 catalog)

Response:

There is a fair amount of info on the Bighorn, including current conditions, on Fly Fishing Adventures (http://www.ffa.com/). Check it out! Also, Bob Krumm lives in Ft. Smith and has guided the Bighorn for 12 years; contact him at (406) 666-2229; or call Bighorn Angler at (406) 666-2233. Larry Krum Editor, The Daily Hatch

Response:

Question:

Will be in the Boston area this summer, and will probably bring my fly rod with me. Any interesting waters near by?

Hi Andrea.  I’m guessing that you’re doing freshwater?  If so I’d recommend the Squannacook River in Townsend.  Close to Boston there really isn’t much except still water.  Although Jamaica Pond right in the city is heavily stocked and said to be excellent.  Out in Townsend about 45 miles +/- from the city I had an excellent night yesterday. You might call Squannacook River Outfitters in either Groton or Townsend for information.  Enjoy, Bill.

Response:

Will be in the Boston area this summer, and will probably bring my fly rod with me. Any interesting waters near by?

Response:

Will be in the Boston area this summer, and will probably bring my fly rod with me. Any interesting waters near by?

Plenty of great fly fishing.  The big question is what type of fishing are you looking for?  Trout?  Striped Bass?  There’s a big difference in the type of tackle.   My web site has plenty of usefull information and is update 5 times a week with fishing news for New England and more specifically Massachsetts.  http://www.geocities.com/Baja/3297/fishing.htm In short, to answer your question, there’s lots of great fishing.  If you can give us a little more info, I’m sure we can give you better tips. Tight Lines — Mark N. Cahill For E-mail remove the _Remove_This from the reply to address. http://www.geocities.com/Baja/3297

Response:

Question:

FLyfishing rests on casting the weight of the line. That cast has to have an aesthetic quality; it should pleasing to the eye and have a pleasing feel to the caster; that means that sinking lines are in AND so might lead (on the fly YES and maybe on the leader) and even indicators if they do not detract significantly from the aesthetic quality of the cast! Then you’d have to cut me some slack when I fish the runoff with 10 splitshot. The art is not the cast then. The art here is the magnificence of a rocky mountain runoff… TimW

I’ll cut you slack any time you ask. Read what I said; That cast has to have an aesthetic quality; it should be pleasing to the eye and have a pleasing feel to the caster;

if you get that when you use 10 split shot and it looks that why to the critical eye of another flyfisher then you fly cating and you’re a better caster than I  (or have a harder head)

Response:

<snip : Time : for another glass of a great Chilean red wine. Now there is a relatively recent TRADITION that I can heartily endorse! With or without a barbecued leg of lamb and a Chilean river in the background….   !Vive el comercio libre con Chile! Burnaby, BC

Response:

IMO, fly fishing is fishing an imitation of a natural food form, unweighted, solely using the weight of the fly line to cast. No bobbers, no split shot, etc. Everything else is "fishing with a fly". Sadly, this means that my beloved Atlantic salmon fishing (shudder, shudder), with centuries of tradition behind it, is fishing with a fly. At least no weight is allowed, either in the fly or on the leader. Does this matter? YES! Is it just semantics? No. How can one justify a "fly fishing only" section when bobbers and shotted leaders are permitted. It’s ludicrous. How about spooling a fly rod and reel with mono, nonsense. There is nothing wrong with a little yarn indicator which doesn’t float the fly, this is no different than using a dry fly (or the colored end of the line) as an indicator (which I do all the time where two or more flies are permitted). However, if the indicator is not an imitation of a natural insect and floats the nymph, you are bobber fishing, period. Do I do this? You bet! In deep, heavy water, fly fishing is usually a waste of time, fishing with a fly may, however, be very successful. However, how many times have I wished I had a noodle rod in my hands instead of a stupid fly rod, designed to cast a light line, not an ounce of lead. Chuck and duck is simply bizarre, a misuse of the equipment for some completely irrational reason. Ah, damn, George just landed me too. Time for another glass of a great Chilean red wine. Paul Marriner

Response:

[rip !] YES! Is it just semantics? No. How can one justify a "fly fishing only" section when bobbers and shotted leaders are permitted. It’s ludicrous. How about spooling a fly rod and reel with mono, nonsense. There is

and the ethics of sinking lines ? TimW

Response:

and the ethics of sinking lines ?

Although someone will surely point out the seemingly logical inconsistencies of my argument, I do not have and ethical problem with sinking or sink-tip fly lines. Most of them can be cast in a more-or-less normal fashion. My simple (some will suggest simple-minded) definition of fly fishing is "no weight or floatation _added_ to the line or leader." All else is fishing with a fly, for which a multitude of angling gear will suffice or even excel. As I tried to point out in my earlier post, such hair-splitting is only appropriate when we designate "fly fishing only" sections. I support these for a number of the excellent reasons previously posted. Paul Marriner

Response:

You guys are merciless. A.J.Thramer

Response:

   Newsgroups: rec.outdoors.fishing.fly             and the ethics of sinking lines ?         TimW          A floating line is nothing but a linear bobber… Think about that…        And a dry fly is simply integration.    TimW No, a dry fly is a derivative.  Only the nymph is an integral. Although, the Royal Wulff may well be a partial derivative. – d tgades/dx

Response:

and the ethics of sinking lines ? TimW

 A floating line is nothing but a linear bobber… Think about that… Jim Jim, Nevada Jim’s Outdoor Sports, Elko, NV

Response:

and the ethics of sinking lines ? TimW  A floating line is nothing but a linear bobber… Think about that…

And a dry fly is simply integration. TimW

Response:

FLyfishing rests on casting the weight of the line. That cast has to have an aesthetic quality; it should pleasing to the eye and have a pleasing feel to the caster; that means that sinking lines are in AND so might lead (on the fly YES and maybe on the leader) and even indicators if they do not detract significantly from the aesthetic quality of the cast!

Then you’d have to cut me some slack when I fish the runoff with 10 splitshot. The art is not the cast then. The art here is the magnificence of a rocky mountain runoff… TimW

Response:

IMO, fly fishing is fishing an imitation of a natural food form, unweighted, solely using the weight of the fly line to cast. No bobbers, no split shot, etc. Everything else is "fishing with a fly".

<<snipped I like this; how else can we know we are fly fishing unless we can say what it is we are doing. However why <<an imitation of a natural food form; a soft plastic slamon egg or frog is an imitation of a natural food! Those are not flies and we all know that! Why not a combination of fibres, plastic, that combined provide no artifical movement other than that induced by the angler fished to induce a fish to take the fly into it’s mouth out of hunger, curiosity or aggresiveness. Also on the subject of the line; a couple years back I chatted with an angler on the Big Qualicum River on Van Isle. I was fishing a 14 ft double hander with split shot and an indicator (bobber) with a floating DT He used a 6ft section of850 SA shooting head nail knotted to green Amnesia running line. We both agreed we likely weren’t flyfishing. Yet his was " A singular system; unbroken from reel to fly" as GG might say. FLyfishing rests on casting the weight of the line. That cast has to have an aesthetic quality; it should pleasing to the eye and have a pleasing feel to the caster; that means that sinking lines are in AND so might lead (on the fly YES and maybe on the leader) and even indicators if they do not detract significantly from the aesthetic quality of the cast! A floating line and an unweighted fly may have the most grace; it may sometimes require more skill but it isn’t the only form of flyfishing! Ralph H.

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Question:

<snip but it also has these heavy nylon cord loops on both sleaves and on the back.  What are these used for?  I think it’s some kind of fly-fishing kind of thing.<snip

The loops are for little cable retracter thingys to attach to, which in turn attach to yer fly floatant and nippers, etc…. (:-) Jim

Response:

I just bought a really coool Columbia shirt with all kinds of niffty pockets with Velcro closures and stuff, but it also has these heavy nylon cord loops on both sleaves and on the back.  What are these used for?  I think it’s some kind of fly-fishing kind of thing. We don’t know much about fly-fishing down here in Texas.  In fact, our idea of fishing is to set a tub of clean water down by a muddy creek and wack the fish on the head with sticks as they wiggle up on the bank trying to get to the clean water. Thanks, Gary Joe

Gary,         Those are called ’stringers’, and are used to ’string up’ the guy wearing the shirt for being an elitist, yuppie flyfisherperson.  You’ll notice that the location of the loops prevents the wearer of the shirt from reaching the attaching harness to get loose.  Once the elitist, yuppie flyfisherperson (EYF) is strung up the rest is like shooting fish in a tub of clean water!  :^) Charley

Response:

I just bought a really coool Columbia shirt with all kinds of niffty pockets with Velcro closures and stuff, but it also has these heavy nylon cord loops on both sleaves and on the back.  What are these used for?  I think it’s some kind of fly-fishing kind of thing. We don’t know much about fly-fishing down here in Texas.  In fact, our idea of fishing is to set a tub of clean water down by a muddy creek and wack the fish on the head with sticks as they wiggle up on the bank trying to get to the clean water. Thanks, Gary Joe      <Opinions expressed and/or implied are not necessarily those of UPR         "I don’t know why I do stuff…I just do it."  - Bart Simpson

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Question:

How is the number 3 Hoffman for size 16 thru 24?  The Metz number 2s have them, but not in large quantities.

Response:

The #3 Hoffmans are excellent in these sizes.  And you won’t believe the length of the stems.

Response:

How is the number 3 Hoffman for size 16 thru 24?  The Metz number 2s have them, but not in large quantities.

Don’t know about the Hoffmans, but the Metz #1 are loaded!  I had lots of 22’s over 1 inch long.   A sunny day,      a box of midges,         and a wandering stream…   Man, this MUST be heaven!   <    Steve Kulpa    <<

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – How is the number 3 Hoffman for size 16 thru 24?  The Metz number 2s have them, but not in large quantities. Don’t know about the Hoffmans, but the Metz #1 are loaded!  I had lots of 22’s over 1 inch long.  A sunny day,     a box of midges,        and a wandering stream…  Man, this MUST be heaven!  <    Steve Kulpa    <<

From what I have heard and seen, the Hoffman #3 grade is equivalent to a Metz #1.  I know this is true on saddles from personal experience.   It just makes me wonder how good a Hoffman #1 neck would be!!! Tom Cavitt

Response:

I own several metz and several Hoffman necks.  I can’t believe how much better the Hoffmans are than the Metz necks.  A number 3 Hoffman is a superior neck to a number 1 metz any day and far cheaper.

Response:

I own several metz and several Hoffman necks.  I can’t believe how much better the Hoffmans are than the Metz necks.  A number 3 Hoffman is a superior neck to a number 1 metz any day and far cheaper.

I’ve read this and I couldn’t resist the impression that you have been blended by the number of feathers and their relativly low price. I’ve been a user of both Metz and Hoffman for some years now, and I DO see the difference between these two neck-types. Hoffman hackel is much more stiffer than Metz, they are very often U-formed – which makes parachute fly tying quite difficult. So .. to the point. In my opinion both brands are good as all purpose hackle. But Metz (in my humble opinion) gives you flexibility of use – no matter classification.

Response:

been blended by the number of feathers and their relativly low price. I’ve been a user of both Metz and Hoffman for some years now, and I DO see the difference between these two neck-types. Hoffman hackel is much more stiffer than Metz, they are very often U-formed – which makes parachute fly tying quite difficult. So .. to the point. In my opinion both brands are good as all purpose hackle. But Metz (in my humble opinion) gives you flexibility of use – no matter classification. Well, the feathers are really flying now.  The idea that a Metz neck is better than a Hoffman for parachute tying could only be described as bird-brained.  Hoffman hackles are long and the stems are flexible, both essential characteristics for parachute patterns.  In my humble opinion they result in far neater flies than the Metz, and my parachute flies have certainly improved since I’ve switched over.  In fact, I have a #1 metz rooster neck in a medium dun that I will gladly sell for $30.00 (I’ve plucked less than two-dozen feathers between #14-18 on the neck)  so I can put the money toward a #3 Hoffman.  Any of you Metz fans can reach me at my E-mail address and make an offer.

Response:

says… – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -We sigh over the good old days, but… I still have many of the old Indian and Phillipine rooster necks that I bought during the sixties when I was learning to tie.  These were "first quality"  necks that sold for $4-$10 each depending mostly on color. Necks that aren’t worthy to share the same chicken ranch, let alone coop, with a #3 Metz or Hoffman.  Of course the color selection was quite limited–a dun neck was an extreme rarity, especially one in dry-fly quality.  $10 for a mediocre domestic grizzly neck in 1969 (if you could find one at all) is probably about the same as $60-$70 for a superb #1 grizzly today… …you can have the good old days. Thanks Mr. Hoffman, Mr. Metz, and all the others who are producing the best hackle ever Sean Barry

I solved most of my expensive hackle problems.  I tie and use almost exclusively the Comparadun style.  Easy to tie, floats  like a cork and seem to take trout as well as any Mayfly tied in the tradtional manner. Les

Response:

:                       Man, what a difference! : Now to get a brown one … I just bought my first #1 Hoffman a few weeks ago: a beautiful fiery brown!  As you say, it’s a great treat to work with the best.  I’ll never buy anything less (well, hardly ever). — Laboratory for Applied Logic    Dept. of Computer Science University of Idaho             www: http://www.cs.uidaho.edu/~foster

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We sigh over the good old days, but… I still have many of the old Indian and Phillipine rooster necks that I bought during the sixties when I was learning to tie.  These were "first quality"  necks that sold for $4-$10 each depending mostly on color. Necks that aren’t worthy to share the same chicken ranch, let alone coop, with a #3 Metz or Hoffman.  Of course the color selection was quite limited–a dun neck was an extreme rarity, especially one in dry-fly quality.  $10 for a mediocre domestic grizzly neck in 1969 (if you could find one at all) is probably about the same as $60-$70 for a superb #1 grizzly today… …you can have the good old days. Thanks Mr. Hoffman, Mr. Metz, and all the others who are producing the best hackle ever Sean Barry

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I just opened my first Metz #1 neck the other day, and what a treat! I bought it last month when I was at my favorite fly shop cuz it just struck my eye.  A nice dark grizzly, real full and heavy.  I just sold the owner of the shop $70 worth of flys, so I went ahead and got it, even though I had no immeadiate use for it yet.  I still had a lot on my current #2 neck, so I just packed it away for later.  Well, the other night I needed some #20s and my current neck was out of ‘em, so I got out the new one and opened it up.                      Man, what a difference!

[snip] Steve: If somehow a #1 Herbert ever makes it out your way, take a good look at one of those critters. My second choice (and close behind the Hebert) would be Hoffman. Check out the flatness and suppleness of the stems, and check the barb count/stiffness on these two producers’ chickens, and compare them against the Metz. I won’t say that it’ll put a #1 Metz to shame (that would be cruel ;^) but suffice to say that I haven’t bought a Metz in many years once the Hebert’s and Hoffman’s became available out my way… /dave <<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<< < Digital Equipment Corp.    Alpha Server Engineering  < <           "Read this and nobody gets hurt"           < <<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<

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Jim,         In flyfishing, when we tie our own flies, we use the feathers from roosters for the hackle.  There are a number of fine folks who expend great quantities of money and effort to raise above average plummage for our addiction.  Once raised, they are graded and sold on the basis of their appropriateness to tying.  A number one (#1) neck indicates a slab of skin from the shoulder, neck, and head area of a rooster, bearing a high count of feathers having sufficient length, stiffness of barbules (those little things sticking out from the quill), and smallness of barbules to qualify for a top rating.  It is normally considered appropriate for use in tying a large number of very small dry flies.  A number two (#2) neck may have fewer smaller feathers or fewer barbules, or a problems with color.  It is still useful, just not best.  A number three (#3) is probably getting pretty webby and may only tie wet flies– lacking the stiffness to float a fly on its barbules.  The "neck" designation is to distinguish from a "saddle"– the back part of a bird (where you’d put a saddle if you wanted to ride it).  Saddles are generally considered appropriate for larger flies and often display the stiffness and barbule count of quality necks.  Hoffman and Metz both have demonstrated that saddles can be produced that are suitable for smaller flies.  Saddle feathers are generally much longer than neck feathers and somewhat less expensive. Hope that helps. Charley

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I just opened my first Metz #1 neck the other day, and what a treat! I bought it last month when I was at my favorite fly shop cuz it just struck my eye.  A nice dark grizzly, real full and heavy.  I just sold the owner of the shop $70 worth of flys, so I went ahead and got it, even though I had no immeadiate use for it yet.  I still had a lot on my current #2 neck, so I just packed it away for later.  Well, the other night I needed some #20s and my current neck was out of ‘em, so I got out the new one and opened it up.                       Man, what a difference! The top of the neck is LOADED with #20’s!  I picked out thirty or so and still have lots left, and most are 1 – 1.5 inches long.  I can’t even guess at the number of 22s.  I think I lucked out and got an exceptional #1.  I’m now convinced that #1’s are the way to go, providing you have a chance to look them over.  Now and then an exceptional one will come along. Now to get a brown one … Steve P.S.  Mr. Lum, I thought you’d like hearing this story!   A sunny day,      a box of midges,         and a wandering stream…   Man, this MUST be heaven!   <    Steve Kulpa    <<

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Steve,         What’s a Metz #1 neck? I don’t speak ff so good yet.                                                         Jim

: I just opened my first Metz #1 neck the other day, and what a treat! : I bought it last month when I was at my favorite fly shop cuz it : just struck my eye.  A nice dark grizzly, real full and heavy.  I : just sold the owner of the shop $70 worth of flys, so I went ahead : and got it, even though I had no immeadiate use for it yet.  I : still had a lot on my current #2 neck, so I just packed it away for : later.  Well, the other night I needed some #20s and my current neck : was out of ‘em, so I got out the new one and opened it up. :                       Man, what a difference! : The top of the neck is LOADED with #20’s!  I picked out thirty or so : and still have lots left, and most are 1 – 1.5 inches long.  I can’t : even guess at the number of 22s.  I think I lucked out and got an : exceptional #1.  I’m now convinced that #1’s are the way to go, : providing you have a chance to look them over.  Now and then an : exceptional one will come along. : Now to get a brown one … : Steve : P.S.  Mr. Lum, I thought you’d like hearing this story! :   :   A sunny day, :      a box of midges, :         and a wandering stream… :   Man, this MUST be heaven! :   <    Steve Kulpa    <<

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Question:

I will be taking a two week trip to the yukon canoeing down the Yukon river this summer and would like to know if anyone has done this before. I would like to fish for grayling, artic char etc and would appreciate hearing from anyone what flies & methods i should use. If anyone has done this trip fishing or not, please drop me a line

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- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I will be taking a two week trip to the yukon canoeing down the Yukon river this summer and would like to know if anyone has done this before. I would like to fish for grayling, artic char etc and would appreciate hearing from anyone what flies & methods i should use. If anyone has done this trip fishing or not, please drop me a line

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My Name: My, this reminds me of an incident that I wittnessed while I was stationed at Galena Air Force Station in 1963/64.  Galena is located on the banks of the Yukon river in central Alaska. I and some friends were drinking beer and cooking hamburgers/hotdogs one afternoon when we spied a canoe pulling up to shore where we were. As soon as the canoe was pulled up on shore the two occupants split at a trot in different directions without saying a word to us or each other. We got a good laugh out of this and continued eating and drinking. The next day I talked with one of the canoeists and he said that they had seen so much of each other and hardly no one else that they were ready to pitch in and fight each other and had been at each other’s throat for a while.  I guess they finally settled their differences as they left a day or two later in the canoe and together. The feude undoubtly arose out of the ever present bowman/sternman dispute. The bowman can’t pick a route and the sternman can’t steer. So don’t ( as they say in the Eastern Shore of Delaware ) "fall into a fight" with your partner. Richard Warren Raleigh, NC

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